Also on a Giant TCR with a DUB spindle. Had mine replaced after 25000km (5000km of those indoors). Can't believe I've got this much out of the standard SRAM BB. But rarely ever rode in the rain. The cranks were spinning perfectly well over those two years.
@@5amba I don t understand exactly why BB with smaller ball/seal are more subject to water ingress but i happen to be that way. Maybe thicker seal deform better, i don't know.
Great video for those interested in bearings and bearing issues. Can you just put a correction bubble in the video at 11:46. I am sure you understand and meant to say, “undersized” hole, not “oversized”hole, causing a bearing to be rough when rotated fitted, but the bearing rotates smoothly when removed from the undersized frame hole. I appreciate the bike industry is, let’s just say relaxed on bearing interference tolerances, so it’s relatively common to find frames with both examples:- Frames with undersized BB frame holes, which causes the issue you explained in this video, of the bearing being rough, when fitted in an “undersized” BB frame hole and the opposite issue, that commonly damages carbon frames, of oversized BB frame holes, not significantly gripping the bearing outer and the bearing constantly micro moving within the carbon frame on peddling, which causes further wearing of an already oversized hole, resulting in this difficult to overcome problem and the accelerated audible knocking coming from the BB.
@@Mapdec In a previous life, in a different industry, I investigated bearing failures of bearings costing in total >3 million, implementing vibration monitoring and tuning the algorithms to allow the introduction of, on condition, proactive bearing replacements and I am still interested in Engineering, including when working on my and friends bikes. .
Fantastic video. ( Just essentially demolished a set of Truvativ DUB carbon in less than 400 miles due to wear and wobble that developed on the spindle. ) Never seen anything get destroyed so quickly on an MTB in my life. Can't help but think of the simplicity of the Shimano 24mm and also the previous generation GXP 22/24mm. Never once had an issue with GXP. Kind of quite disappointed to be honest.
My canyon grizl has a press fit dub BB, I recently changed the BB after 10k km. I was going on a long bikepacking trip and it started to make a slight sound. The non drive side felt a little rough. I'm a 100 kg rider and my legs are fairly strong 🙃. So my conclusion is: if the frame opening for the BB is made to spec, it should be fine, but I can imagine that the risk of creaking and quick wear is higher.
This is an extremely timely video as I am in the middle of replacing and old Shimano based system with SRAM dub and I have been researching PF86 BB's for a week or so and do not really need to run a module systems such as Hambini\BBInifinite as my frame is in good shape. I had not come across the Mortop, but while I also was not looking to shell out $200+ for a BB , I was looking at the Enduro XD15 which is a stupid $299, but does carry a lifetime warranty, however, my crank came with a SRAM BB, so I think for now, I am going to install that and then look into the Mortop for the future. Who knows I might be surprised by the SRAM BB, as I typically do not ride this bike in the rain, so if might work just fine. Plus Enduro does off some slightly lower priced options.
Great video! Thanks! If you are looking for aternative solutions and/or sources, I can recommend: BKS-7016, BK-7019, and BKC-7022 from Enduro Bearings. These are bare flange bearings, but of very good quality.
I don't have any experience with these bearings on road bikes, but if I remember correctly, only the width of the shell varies. So it seems to me that there should not be any problems.
@@justsomedude7556 I bought it too, just waiting to get it delivered. Any tips on installing it and about the spacers needed? I'm going to install Sram Rival crankset on it.
@HarishChouhan The only tool you will need is a press that handles whatever version of SRAM you are using, DUB or GXP. It was a piece of cake it install. It comes with spacers, just use the appropriate amount needed for your setup, mine was a road setup with DUB, so 3mm of spacers on the drive side.
@@justsomedude7556 Yup, I do have Sram Dub (Sram Rival AXS normal 2x crankset) and my frame is the Trek Emonda ALR with BB86 standard. I don't have any BB tools so I'll go to a shop for that :)
Killer solution (road), scrap the sram dub cranks! My current Sram Force build solution (SLC 3.0): Magene P505 cranks with Durace 50/34 chainrings on a Kogel BB86 (cross) Ceramic. My rear cassette is 10/36. When this is done... I will have the gear ratio I need for living in the rainforest mountains with a dependable BB for buttery strokes. I can not justify the waste of time, money and headache screwing around with tiny bearings, even two rows of them… For climbing up the steep in the soaking wet I think the best solution is to scrap the dub all together. However, my thoughts regarding this Mortop BB for flat fairweather riding, looks like a solution I would definitely try out.
I was considering this as it's hard to get the front chainring size I needed. Is there any shifting issue with 16T difference in chainring when using with a Sram FD?
Running a SRAM DUB crank and bottom bracket on a Canyon Ultimate without any issues, rim brake so mostly riding in good weather. Had a AliExpress bottom bracket on my Chinerbuild with a SRAM Force DUB crank and the bearing imploded. Might have messed up during installation, redid the bottom bracket to give it another try. At this point: good experience with the SRAM bottom bracket, bad experience with a no name bottom bracket...
I have 3 bikes with PF41 fitted and have been relatively lucky, my only gripe was i replaced the standard sram BB on my gravel race bike (giant revolt pro 0) with a ceramic C Bear mtb upgrade for the tune of £150, the bearings are noisy already, so l certainly wont be going down that route again. The bike has only been used in dry conditions too. You live and learn.
That's the one complaint I have about my Giant Revolt. BB86 and my dub crankset. Fortunately - Giant, did an excellent job in terms of making a straight and true hole on my BB. I've changed out the BB every winter with the Rotor PF 4129 double row cups and it’s been just fine. I never had a BB issue per se, but I know it’s a design weakness.
I have a BMC RoadMachine with a SRAM Force (BB86 with DUB crank). My bottom bracket is still the original after 23,000km and they are still smooth. I must have the longest lasting one. On the other hand my Rotor Ceramic with a Shimano 105 (PF46 with 24mm) on my Time frame didn't last 3000km. Rotor use shit bearing and their 5 years warranty doesn't cover them "Bottom bracket bearings are a wear item that we do not cover under warranty." And they tell you not to replace them, because (let me quote them again) "Because the cups are softer than the frame, will conform to the bottom bracket (Think of the interface like a crush washer) and therefore should simply be replaced, as once serviced will increase the odds of creaking or loose bearings." Which sound like a bunch of BS to me since you don't even need to remove the BB to swap the bearing out. I ended up replacing them anyway with NTN bearing. No creak so far. I hate Rotor, $200 for a BB that last 1 month...
SKF have been selling 'old fashioned' bottom brackets for over a decade with roller bearings on the drive side. They offer a ten year warranty. They screw into BSA (mostly, Italian and French thread also available) BB shells. I've been cranking one for well over six years. It still spins like it's a few days old. Absolutely no servicing needed. I'm sorry, was there some discussion on "progress" in the industry happening?
Hi I don’t get this Dub BB’s - I got a road bike with a T47 SRAM Dub BB! Is the bearing just bb30 cuz it also have this plastic cup that sits on the crank! I’m confused
I have a Cannondale SuperSixEvo with DUB and replaced it with a one piece BBINFINITE system. Awesome so far. PLUS: You are correct on the wordy words used to describe what you are getting.......sounds like junior Marketing 101 from a community college to me. Just say what is in the box and what system is is for!
I see a lot of sram haters and well, sram absolutely deserve it, because they make as many interesting products as problematics one and their marketing is so good they are everywhere pushing regular consumers in ****. However i can't deny they make high performance parts. A XX crankset is strong stiff and very light. You can't get this weight and reliability on a 24 axle. The problem is those pressfit 41 are too xxxxx small. Everyone here says shimano is king 24 superior but 24 is actually inferior for a crank design. However we should not try to cram a 30 or pseudo 30 is such a small pressfit hole and sram is guilty of advertising it as fine as well as oem speccing it. Bike company should just do bigger hole in their bike to allow them to reliably spec proper cranks. My good old BB65 look as 50000km on stock bearing.
Did the Raceface 30mm cranks and 41mm PF BB’s hit UK much a few years ago? Those combos just as bad if not worse especially with carbon crank versions failing often…:(
Thanks for discussion of this problem! I didn't know it better when I bought my bike with a BB86 x DUB combination. Has anybody experience with the Tripeak Twist Fit (my local bike shop has them and I think about giving steel bearing version a try on the MTB)? Thanks!
Ha. I have a one frame with BB30 and on my mongrel travel road bike I run ultegra cranks with my sram rival😁 it sometimes raises few eyebrows but it works.
I'm probably writing this too late to get a response, but I purchased a Mortop BB for by BB86 bike with Rotor 30mm cranks after watching this video. Went in no problem, however due to the thicker lip that sits on the outside of the shell, I can't use any spacers or preload and can't torgue up to the required 35-40Nm. I can get to 25Nm no problem, and 30Nm feels like it might be a little too much. Does this matter? and if so, is there a solution?
I have gone for Enduro XD15, they are like the Hope but warrantied for life.... Will see how they perform with my frame tolerances. Hope have actually updated and they are very like the Mortop now, but my cable routing does not allow for a connecting tube.
Have to say Mortop was a pain to install, Rival crank was so out of wack so had to use violence to get it through. However, stiffness times 10 now on my Canyon Ultimate!
Hope has a second gen bb which is not enduro/inox but swiss made. Single row with metal shield. I have one. Bikeone also make a one piece solution that I felt was interesting. On my spark the sram and rotor (which is enduro made) die in a single very wet muddy ride. I have also been running hope gen 1 which is also enduro made but with inox balls and it looks to hold but i don't see how those seals will hold better than rotor one when it will meet mud. Only upside I guess is you have a chance at rebuilding it because it might not rust instantly like rotor (and sram).
Got a di2 problem on my newest bike. It won't shift to the four easiest gears or largest cogs on the cassette. It does not shift wrong, the chain isn't jumping around or anything, there is no noise, it just doesn't shift or react at all. The remaining gears work fine, so does the front mech. Can't be a bent hanger, right? What could be the reason, the system is only one year old? Thought I'd try my luck asking here because this is the best tech channel.
Подшипники серии 6905 это подшипники сверхлегкой серии, они не предназначены для нагрузок, они для высоких оборотов. И как правило в этих подшипниках пластиковый сепаратор, что плохо для динамических нагрузок. Я меняю данные подшипники в чашках каретки и ставлю сразу с металлическим или латунным сепаратором, что очень хорошо. Но всё равно не будем забывать что эти подшипники не предназначены для динамических нагрузок, так как являются сверх легкой серией. Для чего Shimano и SRAM используют их, вопрос остаётся открытым. Я думаю что большой вклад внёс маркетинг про сброс веса с велосипеда. Не будем забывать про каретки Octalink, которые ходят очень долго. А так под сальники или уплотнители, я смазываю силиконовой смазкой, она воду и грязь не пропускает.
I keep pulling what little hair I have left out every time I watch one of your bottom bracket videos. I was going to use sram eagle gx groupset with a sram crank in a bb30 bottom bracket. But every time I watch your videos I get the idea that dub in a bb30 isn't a great solution. So I found a screw together bb30 to shimano bottom bracket from wheels manufacturing, so now I am switching from getting a sram drivetrain to a shimano xt m8100 drivetrain. Seams like a better and more reliable solution. I am more than mechanically inclined (rebuild cylinder heads, brake calipers, and engines for my job) so fixing things and making things work is in my wheelhouse but I want a setup that I don't have to worry about and bb30 to 24 shimano seems to be the best bet. What do you guys think?
BB30 to DuB is great. It’s just a 6806 bearing with a top hat to step down to 29. It’s the same bearing you will see in BB386evo and T47. Just pushed directly into the frame instead of using a carrier.
@@Mapdec And now I have no hair left lol. Oh well I think I'll stick to shimano. From what I read the xt m8100 seems to be the more popular pick out of the two. But I'm open to your input on the matter as well. It is a carbon frame hard tail trail bike, I want something that will take a beating on the trail and stay reliable without too much fiddling around. And around 5 hundred ish CAD ruppies. The sram was cheaper and had the crankset included. The one major thing I liked about 24mm shimano was the wheels manufacturing bottom bracket is direct contact from spindle to the bearing and doesn't use a spacer or top hat. I don't know much about all this new fancy stuff they came out with for bikes since I last rode one. I have only bought the frame so far. So the rest of the parts are fair game. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Your videos and the way you explain everything is top notch, and I'd love to be able to work in a shop as nice and neat as yours. Where I work is complete chaos on the best of days and everything is covered in grease. Cheers man, you got a subscribe for sure.
i tried the bb infinite one really expensive and you would expect it to work well but the bearings came with that was destroyed after two wet rides, they were totally seized, donno y, they did sent me a replacement bearing. later my bike was crashed and i repaired it and just took that out and used sram bb no problem since, but the bb combination still just lingering at back of my mind when riding.
@@lizhengzhang Yours are just their Ceramitech bearings, not the coated Ceramitech. The only place on a bike you can use a full ceramic bearing on is a rear derailleur's pulley wheels. All other bearings must be hybrid ceramic (ceramic balls + steel races), ceramic races can't take hits, they'll shatter.
If you use Raceface BB 92 pressfit in a scott carbon frame , do you use retain compound or only grease ? they said if you dont use retain compound BB is going to crack or move. Is it true ?
@@Mapdec Ah ok , i managed to remove the bearing but the cup stayed inside. As a new bike mech im afraid to damage the carbon frame . Pls send help lol
Dub is literally the most stupid standard out there! My xx1 crank spindle literally wore out because previous owner of the bike used factory crap bottom brackets and didn't change them every couple of weeks since that s*it develops play very quickly... Now I am stuck with creaking crank and couple of hundred euro bill for the new cranks since you can not just change the spindle like on other fat spindles such as RaceFace. Nukeproof bb seems to last a lot longer then stock one btw, I am a lot happier with that one, but changed it too late...
I need to switch the BB on my Linkin from Shimano to DUB (upgraded to SRAM transmission) I have a DUB bb I was gonna put on. Do I need to keep the inner sleeve or remove it on the linkin?
I'd opt to skip all this nonsense and stick with a trusty 24mm axle --- a Shimano crank doesn't know it's talking to a SRAM rear end :) (at least, there isn't a hand-shake+authentication event... yet)
Can we talk about 30mm axles (RaceFace, Easton, Rotor, CaneCreek, ...)? It's the same problem, innit? I think Praxis / Enduro came up with a promising solution. It is basically a one piece design of bearing and bearing cup, so the size of the bearing balls should be bigger. They got a version for 30mm on both sides and one for the Praxis style 30/28mm (like GXP in big). If they would make a DUB version (maybe with Enduro's stainless steel), this could be the perfect solution. Let me know your thoughts ;)
Intuitively I feel like needle bearings would perform much better in this situation. Perhaps more rolling friction in exchange for longevity. Any engineers here want to tell me why I’m wrong?
"The most common failure for BBs is not that the balls wear out or are overloaded by impact loads, it is because they start to corrode due to contamination. And so for us, going down in spindle size (1.01mm) allowed us to add more sealing both from external contamination and internal contamination...The reason for us going to 28.99mm wasn’t to have a larger ball size for the traditional 30mm frame BB shell configurations...Both of these reinforcements to sealing we felt were needed to make sure our BBs did not wear out prematurely." Ref: PB interview with SRAM Product Manager Jan 17, 2018.
Just replaced my 11th of 2024, 13 last year as the frame wasn’t square, 4 x Type cassettes, 8 chains. I think shimano 2025, maybe not as strong but at least affordable
I was already a fan of the Hope, so then... About to order the mortop extreme BB to see what's up, it was just 30$ shipping to Canada but they only take PayPal... I'll try to find a retailer 😅 F paypal 😂
A lot of innovation and so little reliability. Was a Shi hater 15yrs ago and opted from the bling & expensive Taiwan-built American brand until realizing the products not well-rounded. Back to Shi for peace of mind. After all, why would I want to spend my dough and kept on praying nothing to happen? Been there, done that.
I wish my bike didn’t have a stupid pressfit BB. What a stupid ass idea. Thread BBs are so much easier. I would rather have a square taper or isis BB over pressfit.
I’d rather replace my BB every off season (along with headset bearing service and wheel hub bearing service) than have my crankset delaminate. Also, my Quarq power meter actually works.
@@markstone722 I race gravel (amateur Masters category) in the SE-US and my BB86 dub lasts a full season. Gotta be hundreds of hours including training rides. Over the winter when I do an overhaul on the bike I spend $60 for the Rotor PF4129 double row bearing cups and it literally takes me 10 minutes to do the job with a cheap Amazon press kit.
Let’s be honest the problem is SRAM is badly designed, had three bikes with SRAM fitted and then when you see how much more practical and more well designed shimano is you don’t go back. No one who knows bikes rides ShitRAM.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
DUB and BB86, a combination that I do not make. I don't need to say any more.
HELLOOOO!!!
you are not "god", so thank you
@@beaneaterhaha what?
I don´t even own SRAM I´m just here for the bearings and tolerance talk really.
Also on a Giant TCR with a DUB spindle. Had mine replaced after 25000km (5000km of those indoors). Can't believe I've got this much out of the standard SRAM BB. But rarely ever rode in the rain. The cranks were spinning perfectly well over those two years.
The problem really comes with rain and mud.
@@TheAntoine191 yeah.. but that's the case with most other BBs too
@@5amba I don t understand exactly why BB with smaller ball/seal are more subject to water ingress but i happen to be that way. Maybe thicker seal deform better, i don't know.
@@TheAntoine191 I guess the water and dirt ingress is about the same, but the smaller balls wear quicker with all the gunk inside the bearing.
Great video for those interested in bearings and bearing issues.
Can you just put a correction bubble in the video at 11:46.
I am sure you understand and meant to say, “undersized” hole, not “oversized”hole, causing a bearing to be rough when rotated fitted, but the bearing rotates smoothly when removed from the undersized frame hole.
I appreciate the bike industry is, let’s just say relaxed on bearing interference tolerances, so it’s relatively common to find frames with both examples:-
Frames with undersized BB frame holes, which causes the issue you explained in this video, of the bearing being rough, when fitted in an “undersized” BB frame hole and the opposite issue, that commonly damages carbon frames, of oversized BB frame holes, not significantly gripping the bearing outer and the bearing constantly micro moving within the carbon frame on peddling, which causes further wearing of an already oversized hole, resulting in this difficult to overcome problem and the accelerated audible knocking coming from the BB.
Well spotted. Totally didn’t notice that Mis speak. I’ll see if I can add.
@@Mapdec In a previous life, in a different industry, I investigated bearing failures of bearings costing in total >3 million, implementing vibration monitoring and tuning the algorithms to allow the introduction of, on condition, proactive bearing replacements and I am still interested in Engineering, including when working on my and friends bikes. .
Thanks for uploading the video. I’ll stick with Shimano I hear you’ve got a better chance of getting hold of spares
Shimano has their share of serious problems. Cranksets and power meters come to mind.
Fantastic video. ( Just essentially demolished a set of Truvativ DUB carbon in less than 400 miles due to wear and wobble that developed on the spindle. ) Never seen anything get destroyed so quickly on an MTB in my life. Can't help but think of the simplicity of the Shimano 24mm and also the previous generation GXP 22/24mm. Never once had an issue with GXP. Kind of quite disappointed to be honest.
My canyon grizl has a press fit dub BB, I recently changed the BB after 10k km. I was going on a long bikepacking trip and it started to make a slight sound. The non drive side felt a little rough. I'm a 100 kg rider and my legs are fairly strong 🙃. So my conclusion is: if the frame opening for the BB is made to spec, it should be fine, but I can imagine that the risk of creaking and quick wear is higher.
This is an extremely timely video as I am in the middle of replacing and old Shimano based system with SRAM dub and I have been researching PF86 BB's for a week or so and do not really need to run a module systems such as Hambini\BBInifinite as my frame is in good shape. I had not come across the Mortop, but while I also was not looking to shell out $200+ for a BB , I was looking at the Enduro XD15 which is a stupid $299, but does carry a lifetime warranty, however, my crank came with a SRAM BB, so I think for now, I am going to install that and then look into the Mortop for the future. Who knows I might be surprised by the SRAM BB, as I typically do not ride this bike in the rain, so if might work just fine. Plus Enduro does off some slightly lower priced options.
Great video! Thanks!
If you are looking for aternative solutions and/or sources, I can recommend: BKS-7016, BK-7019, and BKC-7022 from Enduro Bearings. These are bare flange bearings, but of very good quality.
do you know if and how you can run these with sram dub wide road?
I don't have any experience with these bearings on road bikes, but if I remember correctly, only the width of the shell varies. So it seems to me that there should not be any problems.
@Mapdec picked up one of the Mortop, going to install it tomorrow, feel very smooth and look very nicely designed. Appreciate you looking into them.
Let us all know how you get on.
@Mapdec was a piece of cake to install, and spins lovely
@@justsomedude7556 I bought it too, just waiting to get it delivered. Any tips on installing it and about the spacers needed? I'm going to install Sram Rival crankset on it.
@HarishChouhan The only tool you will need is a press that handles whatever version of SRAM you are using, DUB or GXP. It was a piece of cake it install. It comes with spacers, just use the appropriate amount needed for your setup, mine was a road setup with DUB, so 3mm of spacers on the drive side.
@@justsomedude7556 Yup, I do have Sram Dub (Sram Rival AXS normal 2x crankset) and my frame is the Trek Emonda ALR with BB86 standard. I don't have any BB tools so I'll go to a shop for that :)
Killer solution (road), scrap the sram dub cranks! My current Sram Force build solution (SLC 3.0): Magene P505 cranks with Durace 50/34 chainrings on a Kogel BB86 (cross) Ceramic. My rear cassette is 10/36. When this is done... I will have the gear ratio I need for living in the rainforest mountains with a dependable BB for buttery strokes. I can not justify the waste of time, money and headache screwing around with tiny bearings, even two rows of them… For climbing up the steep in the soaking wet I think the best solution is to scrap the dub all together. However, my thoughts regarding this Mortop BB for flat fairweather riding, looks like a solution I would definitely try out.
I was considering this as it's hard to get the front chainring size I needed. Is there any shifting issue with 16T difference in chainring when using with a Sram FD?
I wish this Mortop Dub was easier available, looks great.
It's easily available but they just take PayPal, I'm not using PayPal 😅
@@LaurentiusTriariusif you're in the US they're available on Amazon
Running a SRAM DUB crank and bottom bracket on a Canyon Ultimate without any issues, rim brake so mostly riding in good weather. Had a AliExpress bottom bracket on my Chinerbuild with a SRAM Force DUB crank and the bearing imploded. Might have messed up during installation, redid the bottom bracket to give it another try. At this point: good experience with the SRAM bottom bracket, bad experience with a no name bottom bracket...
I have 3 bikes with PF41 fitted and have been relatively lucky, my only gripe was i replaced the standard sram BB on my gravel race bike (giant revolt pro 0) with a ceramic C Bear mtb upgrade for the tune of £150, the bearings are noisy already, so l certainly wont be going down that route again. The bike has only been used in dry conditions too. You live and learn.
Crazy to think the D in DUB stands for durable haha! Gonna be running shimano cranks until Sram decides to create something actually durable
DUB-ious.
Are you running Shimano cranks with a SRAM cassette?
I have fitted a Enduro X-15D press fit to my Giant Revolt - life time warranty.
Nice. 👍
That's the one complaint I have about my Giant Revolt. BB86 and my dub crankset. Fortunately - Giant, did an excellent job in terms of making a straight and true hole on my BB. I've changed out the BB every winter with the Rotor PF 4129 double row cups and it’s been just fine. I never had a BB issue per se, but I know it’s a design weakness.
I have a BMC RoadMachine with a SRAM Force (BB86 with DUB crank). My bottom bracket is still the original after 23,000km and they are still smooth. I must have the longest lasting one. On the other hand my Rotor Ceramic with a Shimano 105 (PF46 with 24mm) on my Time frame didn't last 3000km. Rotor use shit bearing and their 5 years warranty doesn't cover them "Bottom bracket bearings are a wear item that we do not cover under warranty." And they tell you not to replace them, because (let me quote them again) "Because the cups are softer than the frame, will conform to the bottom bracket (Think of the interface like a crush washer) and therefore should simply be replaced, as once serviced will increase the odds of creaking or loose bearings." Which sound like a bunch of BS to me since you don't even need to remove the BB to swap the bearing out. I ended up replacing them anyway with NTN bearing. No creak so far. I hate Rotor, $200 for a BB that last 1 month...
SKF have been selling 'old fashioned' bottom brackets for over a decade with roller bearings on the drive side. They offer a ten year warranty. They screw into BSA (mostly, Italian and French thread also available) BB shells. I've been cranking one for well over six years. It still spins like it's a few days old. Absolutely no servicing needed.
I'm sorry, was there some discussion on "progress" in the industry happening?
Hi I don’t get this Dub BB’s - I got a road bike with a T47 SRAM Dub BB! Is the bearing just bb30 cuz it also have this plastic cup that sits on the crank! I’m confused
Yep. Just a 6806 (bb30) bearing with a plastic adapter. Perfect.
@@Mapdec okay thx
I have a Cannondale SuperSixEvo with DUB and replaced it with a one piece BBINFINITE system. Awesome so far.
PLUS: You are correct on the wordy words used to describe what you are getting.......sounds like junior Marketing 101 from a community college to me. Just say what is in the box and what system is is for!
I see a lot of sram haters and well, sram absolutely deserve it, because they make as many interesting products as problematics one and their marketing is so good they are everywhere pushing regular consumers in ****.
However i can't deny they make high performance parts. A XX crankset is strong stiff and very light. You can't get this weight and reliability on a 24 axle. The problem is those pressfit 41 are too xxxxx small. Everyone here says shimano is king 24 superior but 24 is actually inferior for a crank design. However we should not try to cram a 30 or pseudo 30 is such a small pressfit hole and sram is guilty of advertising it as fine as well as oem speccing it. Bike company should just do bigger hole in their bike to allow them to reliably spec proper cranks.
My good old BB65 look as 50000km on stock bearing.
Very true. Sram should probably have never made that BB and pushed frame brands to adopt Bb386evo and T47 in the same way they pushed for UDH
Did the Raceface 30mm cranks and 41mm PF BB’s hit UK much a few years ago? Those combos just as bad if not worse especially with carbon crank versions failing often…:(
Thanks for discussion of this problem! I didn't know it better when I bought my bike with a BB86 x DUB combination.
Has anybody experience with the Tripeak Twist Fit (my local bike shop has them and I think about giving steel bearing version a try on the MTB)? Thanks!
I'm changing my prix MTB 92 BB every 1000km. Any suggestions on the other possible BB with 30mm drive side and 28mm non dirve side ?
Could you also do a video for Press Fit solutions for cranks with 30mm spindles like RaceFace and e13?
Pretty much the same.
@@Mapdec got it, thanks!
I'm ok with preasfit in general, have it on my road and gravel. But: no pressfit for MTB and no BB86 (and everything with 41-42mm diameter).
Ha. I have a one frame with BB30 and on my mongrel travel road bike I run ultegra cranks with my sram rival😁 it sometimes raises few eyebrows but it works.
I'm probably writing this too late to get a response, but I purchased a Mortop BB for by BB86 bike with Rotor 30mm cranks after watching this video. Went in no problem, however due to the thicker lip that sits on the outside of the shell, I can't use any spacers or preload and can't torgue up to the required 35-40Nm. I can get to 25Nm no problem, and 30Nm feels like it might be a little too much. Does this matter? and if so, is there a solution?
I have gone for Enduro XD15, they are like the Hope but warrantied for life.... Will see how they perform with my frame tolerances. Hope have actually updated and they are very like the Mortop now, but my cable routing does not allow for a connecting tube.
Have to say Mortop was a pain to install, Rival crank was so out of wack so had to use violence to get it through. However, stiffness times 10 now on my Canyon Ultimate!
Hope has a second gen bb which is not enduro/inox but swiss made. Single row with metal shield. I have one.
Bikeone also make a one piece solution that I felt was interesting.
On my spark the sram and rotor (which is enduro made) die in a single very wet muddy ride. I have also been running hope gen 1 which is also enduro made but with inox balls and it looks to hold but i don't see how those seals will hold better than rotor one when it will meet mud. Only upside I guess is you have a chance at rebuilding it because it might not rust instantly like rotor (and sram).
Got a di2 problem on my newest bike. It won't shift to the four easiest gears or largest cogs on the cassette. It does not shift wrong, the chain isn't jumping around or anything, there is no noise, it just doesn't shift or react at all. The remaining gears work fine, so does the front mech. Can't be a bent hanger, right? What could be the reason, the system is only one year old? Thought I'd try my luck asking here because this is the best tech channel.
11 speed or 12?
High/low set correctly?
It worked before, i believe, did you drop the bike?
Plug it into the diagnostics and see what’s going on. It’s possible to break them.
@@NemesisRTCW 12s, didn't drop it nor knock it
Подшипники серии 6905 это подшипники сверхлегкой серии, они не предназначены для нагрузок, они для высоких оборотов. И как правило в этих подшипниках пластиковый сепаратор, что плохо для динамических нагрузок. Я меняю данные подшипники в чашках каретки и ставлю сразу с металлическим или латунным сепаратором, что очень хорошо. Но всё равно не будем забывать что эти подшипники не предназначены для динамических нагрузок, так как являются сверх легкой серией. Для чего Shimano и SRAM используют их, вопрос остаётся открытым. Я думаю что большой вклад внёс маркетинг про сброс веса с велосипеда. Не будем забывать про каретки Octalink, которые ходят очень долго. А так под сальники или уплотнители, я смазываю силиконовой смазкой, она воду и грязь не пропускает.
I keep pulling what little hair I have left out every time I watch one of your bottom bracket videos. I was going to use sram eagle gx groupset with a sram crank in a bb30 bottom bracket. But every time I watch your videos I get the idea that dub in a bb30 isn't a great solution. So I found a screw together bb30 to shimano bottom bracket from wheels manufacturing, so now I am switching from getting a sram drivetrain to a shimano xt m8100 drivetrain. Seams like a better and more reliable solution. I am more than mechanically inclined (rebuild cylinder heads, brake calipers, and engines for my job) so fixing things and making things work is in my wheelhouse but I want a setup that I don't have to worry about and bb30 to 24 shimano seems to be the best bet. What do you guys think?
BB30 to DuB is great. It’s just a 6806 bearing with a top hat to step down to 29. It’s the same bearing you will see in BB386evo and T47. Just pushed directly into the frame instead of using a carrier.
@@Mapdec And now I have no hair left lol. Oh well I think I'll stick to shimano. From what I read the xt m8100 seems to be the more popular pick out of the two. But I'm open to your input on the matter as well. It is a carbon frame hard tail trail bike, I want something that will take a beating on the trail and stay reliable without too much fiddling around. And around 5 hundred ish CAD ruppies. The sram was cheaper and had the crankset included. The one major thing I liked about 24mm shimano was the wheels manufacturing bottom bracket is direct contact from spindle to the bearing and doesn't use a spacer or top hat. I don't know much about all this new fancy stuff they came out with for bikes since I last rode one. I have only bought the frame so far. So the rest of the parts are fair game. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Your videos and the way you explain everything is top notch, and I'd love to be able to work in a shop as nice and neat as yours. Where I work is complete chaos on the best of days and everything is covered in grease. Cheers man, you got a subscribe for sure.
also it's a boost frame and the shimano xt m8120 crankset is raed for 148x12 boos frames.
i tried the bb infinite one really expensive and you would expect it to work well but the bearings came with that was destroyed after two wet rides, they were totally seized, donno y, they did sent me a replacement bearing. later my bike was crashed and i repaired it and just took that out and used sram bb no problem since, but the bb combination still just lingering at back of my mind when riding.
What bearing spec did you order? ABEC-7 steel or hybrid ceramic?
@@sbccbc7471 ceramic one but not the top spec so probably the hybrid one.
@@lizhengzhang Yours are just their Ceramitech bearings, not the coated Ceramitech. The only place on a bike you can use a full ceramic bearing on is a rear derailleur's pulley wheels. All other bearings must be hybrid ceramic (ceramic balls + steel races), ceramic races can't take hits, they'll shatter.
I've just ordered one of the Token double row solutions. Does anyone have any experience of those?
If you use Raceface BB 92 pressfit in a scott carbon frame , do you use retain compound or only grease ? they said if you dont use retain compound BB is going to crack or move. Is it true ?
It depends on the size of the hole. Retaining Compound is a gap fill.
@@Mapdec Ah ok , i managed to remove the bearing but the cup stayed inside. As a new bike mech im afraid to damage the carbon frame . Pls send help lol
@@Mr75Axl be gentle.
What about Enduro? I’m just changing to sram on my old Emonda ALR which has the press fit bb86
How does the Mortop BB86 compare to the Bikeone version (especially over a typical Lakes Summer), or is it still too early to say?
The Bikone is much like the bearing in the cycling ceramic. Very narrow because it pressed into the shell.
I like Shimano cranksets and BBs on my mtb, but I also like 155mm length cranks. Are there 155mm cranks with a 24mm spindle?
Yes. I would have to search to refresh my mind. Maybe Praxis.
Dub is literally the most stupid standard out there! My xx1 crank spindle literally wore out because previous owner of the bike used factory crap bottom brackets and didn't change them every couple of weeks since that s*it develops play very quickly... Now I am stuck with creaking crank and couple of hundred euro bill for the new cranks since you can not just change the spindle like on other fat spindles such as RaceFace. Nukeproof bb seems to last a lot longer then stock one btw, I am a lot happier with that one, but changed it too late...
I need to switch the BB on my Linkin from Shimano to DUB (upgraded to SRAM transmission)
I have a DUB bb I was gonna put on. Do I need to keep the inner sleeve or remove it on the linkin?
Remove it. It won’t fit anyway.
I'd opt to skip all this nonsense and stick with a trusty 24mm axle --- a Shimano crank doesn't know it's talking to a SRAM rear end :) (at least, there isn't a hand-shake+authentication event... yet)
Can't argue with that logic my friend.
That was exactly my thoughts throughout this video
Can we talk about 30mm axles (RaceFace, Easton, Rotor, CaneCreek, ...)? It's the same problem, innit?
I think Praxis / Enduro came up with a promising solution. It is basically a one piece design of bearing and bearing cup, so the size of the bearing balls should be bigger. They got a version for 30mm on both sides and one for the Praxis style 30/28mm (like GXP in big).
If they would make a DUB version (maybe with Enduro's stainless steel), this could be the perfect solution.
Let me know your thoughts ;)
You can get spacers to run a dub crankset in a 30mm bb!
My question for road dub pressfit is : with this kind of BB can we still mount the SRAM recommended spacers ? if not how we have to do ?
Yes. SRAM has a good table on their website which explains what exact spacers are required for different widths and chain lines.
Most BB come with the spacers. A few don’t. Hambini most notably.
The real solution…a PF41 = 24mm spindle only.
You should have been a kid in the early 1970's with Cotter pins etc 😢
My dad had those.
Intuitively I feel like needle bearings would perform much better in this situation. Perhaps more rolling friction in exchange for longevity. Any engineers here want to tell me why I’m wrong?
Anyone have tried the Mortop? I found the Rotor PF4129, anyone tried those? I destroyed the SRAM BB within 6 weeks, pretty weak performance imo.
"The most common failure for BBs is not that the balls wear out or are overloaded by impact loads, it is because they start to corrode due to contamination. And so for us, going down in spindle size (1.01mm) allowed us to add more sealing both from external contamination and internal contamination...The reason for us going to 28.99mm wasn’t to have a larger ball size for the traditional 30mm frame BB shell configurations...Both of these reinforcements to sealing we felt were needed to make sure our BBs did not wear out prematurely." Ref: PB interview with SRAM Product Manager Jan 17, 2018.
If only they went a few mm further. 24mm would have been perfect.
@@Mapdec Yes 24mm would be a great design for an axle diameter...oh wait 🙄🙄
Why not make large BB orifices?
Seems the issue is more holding on to "legacy" and bike frame manufacturers not innovating.
Nailed it. Long live BB386evo
Just replaced my 11th of 2024, 13 last year as the frame wasn’t square, 4 x Type cassettes, 8 chains. I think shimano 2025, maybe not as strong but at least affordable
Oh wow 😮
I was already a fan of the Hope, so then... About to order the mortop extreme BB to see what's up, it was just 30$ shipping to Canada but they only take PayPal... I'll try to find a retailer 😅
F paypal 😂
Amazon US has them for $99
Bold Linkin
🤷♂️
Rotor and Shimano use 24mm. DUB and 30mm spindles are an answer to a question no one asked.
Glares snobishly in BSA superiority
Solution: shimano crank 24 steel is real axle not dub cheese 🧀
paging hambini
Best solution is to buy a Shimano crank hahaha.
Too difficult. Just get over it and use a different crank.
A lot of innovation and so little reliability. Was a Shi hater 15yrs ago and opted from the bling & expensive Taiwan-built American brand until realizing the products not well-rounded. Back to Shi for peace of mind. After all, why would I want to spend my dough and kept on praying nothing to happen? Been there, done that.
I wish my bike didn’t have a stupid pressfit BB. What a stupid ass idea. Thread BBs are so much easier.
I would rather have a square taper or isis BB over pressfit.
Sram replace in days
Shimano replace in a year
I’d rather replace my BB every off season (along with headset bearing service and wheel hub bearing service) than have my crankset delaminate. Also, my Quarq power meter actually works.
I have to replace my BB every cyclocross season so basically it lasts no more than 30hrs
@@markstone722 I race gravel (amateur Masters category) in the SE-US and my BB86 dub lasts a full season. Gotta be hundreds of hours including training rides. Over the winter when I do an overhaul on the bike I spend $60 for the Rotor PF4129 double row bearing cups and it literally takes me 10 minutes to do the job with a cheap Amazon press kit.
Let’s be honest the problem is SRAM is badly designed, had three bikes with SRAM fitted and then when you see how much more practical and more well designed shimano is you don’t go back. No one who knows bikes rides ShitRAM.
@@mctaggm then don’t go to a crit race, a gravel race, or a MTB race - amateur or pro categories, SRAM is everywhere.