FORD TRANSIT BUILD | FRAMING A TRANSIT
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- Hello Friends!! Stoked to share with you that I have been approved to be an affiliate with RENOGY SOLAR!!! Im beyond excited that they reached out to me. I have used their products on all my vans this far so they are definitely
a company I can get behind.
You guys will get 10% off of any Renogy product if you use my links and I will receive a small commission!
USE CODE RenogySolar10 www.shareasale....
Link to Solar Panels: shareasale.com....
EVERYTHING YOU NEED: (The amazon links below are connected to an affiliate program that allows me to receive a small portion of your purchases. Thanks for supporting the channel!)
Best miter saw ever: amzn.to/3kCT6RY
Rigid table saw: amzn.to/39CYm1z
Kreg pocket scew jig: amzn.to/3CI1qWL
DRILL BIT SET: amzn.to/2Wg1uNU
DRILL: amzn.to/2WcuLsN
IMPACT DRIVER: amzn.to/39BnYM6
TAPE MEASURE: amzn.to/3i6Q5aC
Caulking Gun: amzn.to/3udv1nV
Construction adhesive: amzn.to/3EZiHN6
Tightbond Wood Glue: amzn.to/3kKYbYo
SELF TAPPING SCREWS: www.homedepot....
One 4X8' Sheet of ¾” Plywood
One 4X8' sheet of ½” Plywood
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Hope this video helps!! Let me know if you guys have any questions!
I am framing my little ford transit connect and wondering if I should leave some access holes? What if my mechanic needs access to wiring or rear lights etc? But you covered it all up permanently. Could you please explain your logic? I'd love to have a good excuse for not having to worry about this... Thanks!
This framing seems excessive, why so much?
Great video, thanks! What do you think using foam board insulation with bottle uretan?
Link to your solar panles is broke
For the celiing plywood: I don't quite understand, surely if you screw self-tappers into the van you'll end up exposing metal and create rust points? As you can't go back and seal up the paint. Sure glue MIGHT seal them up, but can't guarantee that, especially on the other side. My advice: NEVER use self tapping screws into painted metal. I installed plus nuts/riv nuts on the SIDE of the roof ribs (there are holes already), and used them to secure wood too. It also meant there was even less headroom used. Anywhere I created a hole in my van, e.g. for riv nuts, I sealed it up with primer paint before installing the riv nut.
All these van builds using self tapping screws are gonna have problems sooner or later. Too mans cons when the pro is just " it saved me time".
If you plan on using the van you will burn out the engine far sooner than a little bit of interior rust from some screws. Maybe just keep it parked in a heated garage and never use it
Riv-Nuts remove the paint on the edge of the hole where fitted.
They are fluted to stop them rotating when you tighten the screw. This fluting bites into the steel when they are pulled up and expand, removing paint. Its a minor issue when using them or self tappers. If it concerns you, just dip them in paint or apply paint with a brush to the hole. You get a bead of wet paint on the inner face around the hole which helps seal the joint if you fix while still wet.
Excellent! Now I know how to do my transit.
Looks great. Your Promaster videos helped me with my framing. I'll be sure to forward this to my son he is framing a transit.
Hahaha perfect. Thanks Micheal glad it helped
I watched this video at least 5 times when I was figuring out how to frame my transit. Thank you!
Awesome!!
So great! I have a 2020 Ford Transit High Roof Extended that I'm building out myself, and am relying heavily on your videos, so thank you! One trick for the 1/2 ply roof furring is to keifer the ends so that it bends nicely:)
Furring strips as shown are not necessary. There is plenty of van structure to fasten to if done correctly.
Excellent video. Easy to follow and understand for the novice builder. Instills confidence and akes me think this might, in fact, be achievable!
You got this!
Looking forward to foaming walls
Thank you for the effort in providing these videos, v helpful. I’m about to start a ford transit build out here in Australia. Thanks again.
No problem!!!
I’m literally picking up the furring strips for my Transit today, so this was very helpful to have a visual! I’ve got the flares too but didn’t buy the trim ring kit, so I’m looking forward to seeing how you finish those out.
Mine did have the trim kit but you can totally frame it out the same and maybe square it off a bit better! Excited for you !
hey are you doing your van alone? and it's been a year since you commented, are you done with it?
Thank you for sharing! I am converting a transit as well but I made mistake by not framing the whole van first and now I am paying for that! Anyway, great video and wish you all the best!
Oh no! lessons learned! Best of luck!
The steel frames at the side door and back doors is hardened steel...for safety standards. You can install nut-serts in factory round holes(that's what they are there for from factory) to glue and bolt on your boards on with button head allen bolts . Forget drilling into those areas your wasting your time with the hardened steel.
Hi Colton, I've heard/seen you mention Auto carpet several times in your videos, however I have looked for it and cannot find. I think in this one you called it a decal? Nonetheless please direct us, as I cannot be alone, as to where to find the auto carpet. I love your videos. I have my insulation in and I just completed my subfloor. I am going to do actual flooring later in my build. So I'm ready for framing. 😁(Btw I am a 75yo lady w/prior experience in accounting. 👌
It’s from a company called perfect fit !
Love you videos. Do you happen to have the video on how you finished out the Flare and the trim ring? I searched for it as you mentioned you were going to show how but couldn't find. Thank you for the awesome information.
I appreciate you listing the tools used for each sub-project.
You’re welcome!!
Hi…relative to the use of construction adhesive…as you will be applying it on top of paint , can it not pull away. ?
The paint can and will pull away if the wood does
Some dumb questions:
1. You do this kind of framing manly on cargo vans, right?
2. All the holes and openings on the interior walls on the vehicle when it leaves the factory -- are they like that specifically to facilitate installing things and doing van conversions?
Thanks.
Hi Colton! Great video! Question on the screws vs rivnut/plusnut debate. I thought using Self Tapping Screws in van walls/ceilings wasn't advised due to all the (1) hole edges rustings, (2) metal shavings released rusting, and (3) the screws only holding onto the 1/16" thk van metal. Trust me, I'd love to just go screws all day, but I thought these were important concerns. I thought you mentioned whenever we make holes in metal to file/paint, and we can't do that with screws. Thanks!!
Hey Justin. Great questions. These screws are specifically designed for attaching wood to metal like this, I’ve used them on every van so far and have had zero issues with them. These screws are coated with an anti rust coating and just for extra precautions I uses construction adhesive behind the boards just incase of the rare chance of one of the screws not holding to the metal
You are correct. But like Colton said, plus nuts are more expensive than screws and a lot more time consuming to install. The time it took him to frame out the Transit with the screws he would be still inserting the plus nuts without any framing done.
But having said that, he is cutting corners that could very well jeopardize someone’s safety during the event of an accident. Or maybe he is right, and the adhesive is good enough?
Perhaps there is a happy medium. I used plus nuts in my van build. Given what I know now from my experience I might just insert plus nuts to secure my bed frame, cabinets, and L track to the walls/ceiling. And supplement with screws despite the potential for rust.
@@MsRotorwings I wouldn’t classify this as cutting corners or jeopardizing safety by any means. Just another method to end up at the same result
Curious how the coating on the screws prevents the van sheet metal from rusting?
Self tapping screws or self drilling screws? There is a difference.
great explanation
Thanks Ronan!
What type, length of screws do you use for the pocket holes. Great video. Tks
Cool explanation of approach.
Glad you liked it!
Great work looks really tidy and efficient thankyou!,
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video! 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
Hey, I know I'm jumping in late but am framing out my transit now and would love if you could please explain how you framed the corner behind your drivers seat? I didn't run my horizontal board all the way to the end of the panel due to that curve in the body up there, so have nothing to attach my vertical furring to at that end. Hope this makes sense, and thanks in advance! Your videos have been very helpful so far!
Hi! I believe I installed an upper cabinet on this van behind the driver seat. I also attached a vertical framing piece as close to the driver seat as I could
Hope that answers your question
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Thank you, yes, I too will be installing cabinets in that location. I ended up securing another 4" common board using adhesive and pocket holes connected underneath the main frame board to run another vertical board down.
Thanks for the video- super helpful!
I'm on my 12th van since 1973! I don't see the need for all those vertical pieces. Even 1/4 paneling would span the distance between your horizontals. I like to make chases for my wiring that I can access anytime later for adding lights or speakers or troubleshooting. I installed car audio for years, so accessibility is high on my list of must haves.
Great video, very helpful! How did you remove the plastic covering that came over the wiring along the roof?
Just pop them off!
Next van dude use rivot nuts to attach your framing. Its that next step up in finishing! Framing ply though is nicely done!
additional time and expense, do you plan on your van lasting you 50 years or something? Just screw in and use the van.
@@SuperBlobsterManthats your prerogative dude. Depends on the quality of craftsmanship your happy to except.
@@iamjamesmannion4853 I'm happy to accept craftsmanship that will exceed the lifetime of the structure it is installed in. To do otherwise is illogical.
Thanks for the new video Colton. Always good seeing the progress.
🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
thank you for the video
No worries!
Anything between the steel and wood besides the glue? Thanks subbed in appreciation.
Thanks. Learned something more 👍🙏
Hi Colton,
I'm having some trouble with your method of the ceiling framing install... trying to use construction adhesive and self-tapping screws but 1) it's difficult to hold up the strip of wood to where the construction adhesive grabs and holds the wood and 2) I might just be short but the ribbing of the van is really difficult to drill into! - Any advice?
Having a good impact drill helps a lot.. and having someone hold the board while another one drills also helps
Another question I have no matter the question is, is this seems like an even better framing than your promaster frame... Why? Lol but suriously this seems a better build than your last, awesome! Means you're still learning and improving, i would think
HAHA I'm always learning!!
Watching for a second time I need this. Thank you
Nice work!
Did you find it easier to frame than the Ram? My hardest part with ram was the top walls where it has that tray for wiring or whatever it's for.
I thought it was a bit easier! There were less random framing pieces sticking out that you had to work around
How did you install the flares with the frames?
That construction adhesive will not bond well to painted metal. Also it will tend to crack with van movement. Use lexel or osi quad max they will stay flexible and stick to anything
Good job!
Thanks Susan!
Good job 👍
Thanks:)
Great video! Thank you!!!
Thanks!
What concerns me with most van builds is weight, not many seem to consider this, heavy panelling, floors and ceiling, mega structures for beds and cabinets. It's a wonder there is any spare useable capacity.
Look at commercial builds, they don't make things lightweight to save money.
A lighter build will be more stable on slopes, have better driving manners and use less fuel.
Its an alternative approach which only a few folks make a priority.
I discovered some white hollow plastic tongue and groove, for ceilings and walls, only 30% the weight of timber. Wish I could find the YT Vid. where it was used in the build.
Did you solve the area above the sliding door?
Yes! I used carpet and upholstered it!
Nice video! What kind of Ford Transit is this?
Great information! Thanks!
Hey, man…question about those Tek screws: I looked up the specs for the #10s and they're 18-1/8" gauge. 18-gauge steel is something like .047 but the interior sheet metal of the Transit is more in the neighborhood of .03. I know you said they worked great, but did you have any trouble with stripping at all (aside from drilling too quickly?) What about them being Phillip's head--any slippage of the bit? Last thing: why 3/4" ply instead of solid wood? Thanks!
thank you for sharing good stuff
i’m finishing up my T1N build and this is getting me stoked on building out a transit!!
Nice!!!! Stoked for you
Thank you, great stuff. Everything explained. ✌
You’re welcome 🙌🏻
Would love to know where the roof ribs are located on the high roof long (not extended). I can’t find the info/pics/video anywhere and I want to know for purposes of planning roof fans and window options in my layout.
It would be great to know from back to front in feet/inches where the roof ribs are located. Thanks in advance if you can offer that info.
Won't the holes drilled in the van rust?
Currently framing out right now exactly how this video suggested. The ceiling went great (only a few spun) but as I went to do the first strip of the wall, every single screw spun. Any ideas why/suggestions?
Try to run the screw in a bit slower so it doesn’t strip the metal!
I'm going beyond slow... still spinning..
@@tannerwagner5791 strange.... are you using a drill or impact driver
I'll follow you more and ask questions I'm going to a huge project turning my Ford transit passenger to a semi camper
Can’t wait!
Hello curious if you know if the ceiling beams could support a pulley system. To lift about a 100lb of equipment
I’d use rivnuts for that
Is it a Philips head or a flat head or a hex head you used and did you countersink them??? Looks great
The wood to metal are Phillips and the pocket hole screws are square head!
Help! What did you end up using for the impenetrable section of the walls up behind the driver and passenger seats? You didn’t say how you resolved that, and I am at that step and at a complete standstill… I really could use some help! Thank you!
Rivnuts into the existing holes
Its hardened steel. Probably since its a crash zone with little framing. You have to use a carbide bit.
I like the pocket screws setup.
Thanks!
Comments for the algorithm 🤘🏼 Keep it up AVB!!
Woot woot!!!
What size pocket hole screws did you use?
What did you do for the hard metal?
Use rivnuts in the pre existing holes
"Doesn't matter what the question is" oook you asked for it! OK so I'm hungry but I'm feeling lazy today, should I go to the store and buy food or well, not?
Uber eats my friend haha
Good call good call
The framing looks fantastic!
Thanks! I thought so too!
Awesome video
Thanks great video
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks , Colton using your framing and your bed design,have the same van style and your layout simple but effective hope it turns out as clean and cool as yourz
On your walls panels approx ,how many boards did you used ?
for the shiplap!? I can't remember but it in my video where I show how I installed it
where can I find how you trimmed out around the windows in back
I upholstered it with auto carpet
How much weight can the self tapping wood to metal screws hold? I’m thinking about the bed or any benches and hanging stuff on walls.
My advice: don't use self tapping screws for anything in the van, otherwise you create rust points at the screws. Anywhere you screw into the paint you're creating a rust point.
Hi! At 6:26, is the top horizontal stud flush to the van? Or is there a gap between the van and wood?
The gap!
Another great video, thanks! Comment for the algorithm. Haha.
Hahah right on! Appreciate that
Nice I love it
Nice video! Do you insulate after framing? Just found your Channel, I’ll check out more of your work soon
Why use ripped plywood versus furring strips for the framing?
Either option works
About to frame my Sprinter. Now that you have tried solid wood and plywood for furring, would you recommend plywood?
either or would work fine!
Great. Thanks. Have subscribed 💖
Great video, new Subscriber. 👍🏾
Welcome :)
Awesome video! How do you design your builds, do you use sketch up?
Kind of, I’ve used it before. But mainly I just talk with the customer on what they want and roughly draw it out
Nice video.
Thanks!
super helpful vide thank u!
Anytime! Thanks
thanks
You're welcome!
Loving the vids so far, very helpful. Thanks!
So glad they’ve helped!
Thanks good info!
Glad it was helpful!
What is the brand/type of the window?
Thank you
so helpful
Glad I could help!
Hey man, do you have a link for those seats?
The swivel seats? I get them on sprinterstore.com
Great info thx!!
Great job! I'm ready to jump on my Transit!
Get it!!
How much experience do you have again?
This is my 3rd van
Where are you getting the plywood?
the big box stores, Home Depot and Lowes
Looking good. Still not convinced that the Ford Transit is better base van than the RAM/Peugeot/Citroen/Fiat.
The promasters are definitely more squared off. But framing the transit was a bit easier!’
Stellantis
Why put wood over the beam on the roof than just drill the wood panels straight into the metal? Seems like added work.
Good question. The metal is uneven so putting the wooden strip makes a flat surface for the slats
🙏
Hey man, why didn't you just cut out the plywood with the detail?
What do you mean?
Link to your solar panles is broke
Read your body builder book, there are members you are not allowed to drill
Comment
Love it!
👍
This is NOT THE BEST method.
Do all your electrical wiring first. Then insulate.
While there nothing "wrong" with this method, But it is defiantly not the best method. You add unnecessary weight and complexity. Use hexagonal 8MM Rivet nuts to hold panels to ceiling and walls. DO NOT USE ADHESIVE. Using Adhesive makes future modifications impossible. Nobody glues an van together.
You use Stainless flat head or oval head 8mm x 20 mm Phillips screws to hold the panels on
The use of Self taping Screws Should be avoided at all costs unless you want rust.THERE IS NO NEED FOR Furring Strips in a van. You cover the walls with sections of plywood that is 48"Wide. So you need vertical "studs as attachment points every 24" maximum 12" or 16" also work. Some vertical studs you have to install where there is not an attachment point.
Best and cheapest to adjust each panels width to match the vans vertical pillars. Layout is key here.
If you have window it is best to make a cutout in a panel or panels. Then trim fill in the gap.
This method has much less weight than the method shown and the panels are removable for service or future modification.
I plan on insulating first then wiring just in case I need to get to wiring in the future.How does doing it in reverse order create a weight difference. Genuinely asking.As for complexity Maybe it's more complex because you have to be more careful of running a screw through wiring I don't know if that's what you mean.Everything else I understand and agree.