Wow, that digital level is COOL! I realized early on as I began my build that a level in a van is useless because the van is probably not level. But this tool solves that problem. So cool! (I wish I had known about this sooner!)
We rebuilt our shuttle bus after 2 years, and Havelock Wool has seriously changed everything when it comes to thermal regulation! We made custom, made to fit shades for our windows, with Reflectix layer against the window, and Havelock Wool layer in-between, with a thick, heat holding fabric on the face. That has been an absolute game changer, keeping temperatures up by about +20° during freezing temps! Never had such a luxury!!
A man after my own heart. I minimised insulation and now I can sit upright in my standard van, my friend can't. I also have more space than most and U value is no difference. I have insulated screen covers for cold nights. Yes, to stainless screws, I changed all my ceiling screws, half of which had gone rusty. I have a different attitude to electrics, "none is better". I have no aux battery, no solar, no split charger, no inverter, which means no problems. Leave the bloody TV at home. I have a fused feed for lights and USBs and another fused feed from the ignition for the cold box, job done. As a backup I have a jump starter, only used it once, on someone else's van. A lot of sensible points, thanks.
I would be interested in the differences in a build for different climates, like rain coast, desert, northern, etc. I’ve seen -40 degrees this year, and all I can think of is insulation.
I did my own tiny home trailer. All wood, glued and screwed, r10, galvanized roof, insulated house door, one window, custom built heat exchanger, my plumbing is dump buckets and refillable blue water jugs, my electrical is extension coords ran through plumbing with shore power hook up. I did a diesel heater, electrical heating, tent wood stove. Summer time I will wrap the outside in aluminum and change the axle. Bin so much fun and it’s saved me a lot of money already this year. It’s already half paid for itself.
I just made my cabinets square in the shop....the uppers are square except for the back of the cabinets where it mounts to the wall. I used 3m, I used baltic birch through out...spring locking struts(marine type door props) inset hinges, deep heavy drawer slides...zero particle board. All quality materials. Very time consuming to build! I'm happy with my one and only van build, three years later my van is exactly how i built it, nothing has come loose or broken.I used pocket screws AND glue...absolutely no rattles or squeaks. 3 battle born batteries, top of the line Renogy, all marine grade and soldered connections, all wiring protected against rubbing in the walls...I double/triple/quadruple checked everything! I did my research on wire sizes, breakers everything!
You sound very proud of your work. It's obvious you know what you can't see is usually more important than what you can. It took you a while but you didn't sacrifice quality for a quick reward. I feel as you do, i could never relax if I was unsure of any of my electrical connections. I am happy for you. Peace
I agree with most of what you've said, but many are working on older vans, and so it's just not viable to use marine ply and fittings. Marine ply is much heavier, due to density, than regular DIY ply. Sure, if you are working on a new, or nearly new van, then use the best you can afford. As to insulation, is only works upto a a point, and it depends where you live, where you'll travel to, and the weather. I ain't going in the mountains during the winter, so my floor is just the steel, stripes of ply, and silver bubble, then 9mm ply, and then 9mm laminate, which I hate with a passion. Here in the UK, it doesn't feel cold to me. The main cold ingress are the cab windows, as you say. The only way to justify top notch build insulation, is proper internal insulated glass covers, and use an external insulated wrap cover. Open the door, and all your hard work is undone for 10 minutes.🤣 As to getting things plumb. I did my best. But it didn't bother me much. It all look close, but the van is never level, unless it's in that garage and that is rare. My van is virtually all ply, painted white, grey and orange, and to save weight, sliding cupboard doors on high units. I agree about putting the bed in too early, but I wanted to travel, so it is what it is. In passing, the thing which is going to kill van life in Europe, is that they are planning to interduce repair redundancy. So when a vehicle gets to a certain age, if something big breaks, they won't let you fix it. It's not in law, but they are toying with the idea. The West is full of Nazis! I have no plans to sell my van. Cost too much, and a lot of personal time to do the work.
I will be purchasing my first van in less than two months, and while I love the design videos, your videos have been extremely educational. Thank you! God bless you both!!
Apart from the obvious confusion of fire hazard of Lithium batteries used in EV's with the much safer standard Lifepo4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) used in most battery banks, the rest was good information/opinions.
I was very worried about being able to have the van level through the build, specially since I own a 1998 Iveco Daily that likes to sit with the back fairly raised. Thanks to you I found a decent digital level and it's going to make my life MUCH easier. Thanks you!
True about quality electrical components. off-brand amazon fuses have been found to just be flat out WRONG about their ratings. NOT something you want to put in your home.
Great stuff! Had no idea such a level existed. That is probably because all my DIY experience has been rooted in traditional carpentry, where everything needs to be level/horizontal to the ground.
Forgot to acknowledge that some van builders are approaching homelessness and limited budget. Some builders are only for 1 trip, or to 'try van life out'. Don't invest $5~10k for a one year horizon. Objectives, resources, motivations can be different. Planning and thought are wise.
Consistently I’ve noticed people cutting roof vents (or other random holes in their van) but never sealing the metal with a rust proofing or automotive rust preventer
Well, I have the Citroen version of the Promaster. It's galvanised. I did treat the edges with rust paint, but the cut outs from the holes were left outside for 3 years, and only the cut edge had traces of rust. There was no rust under the pain, at all. If you were doing this on an older Ford or Mercedes, then you should apply 20 coats of rust proofing paint... 🤣 Huge advantage if you can get a galvanised van. The newer Sprinters are galvanised, but the prices are a joke, and so are the running costs.
I am converting my minivan with solar and your quick rundown of issues hits a number of likely trouble spots. The lithium battery has a lot of components and energy, an internal short could happen, particularly if overheat or mechanical shock. If it starts smoldering, not sure a CO detector or regular smoke detector is better. Lithium fires seem difficult to put out, so whatever ahead of time containment or ejection setup maybe the only option. The larger RVs have metal battery bays outside
I've come to the reason for using conduit for my wiring. Ok it is visible but it's really easy to access and some of the brands nowadays look quite smart.
i HATE mdf boards for those reasons - heavier than plywood, if it gets wet it's done. oh yes, and for someone who's built thousands of flatpack/ikea stuff for customers, i loathe the low quality strength of particle board and mdf for holding hardware.
Great video ! It's for all these reasons (and there are more), as to why I would never build a van myself, and only choose to have one built by a select-few pro builders, such as yourselves.
Being a boat builder, and a van builder, the only main difference between marine grade ply and regular ply is the amount of voids. The glues are all very much the same. Sure marine grade is a better quality typically, but the cost is two to three times more. So unless it is for looks, regular (good quality) ply is just fine.
I'm looking to get a cargo van with a high roof, pass through from cab to cargo, add shelves, a spot for a composting toilet and a place to wash hands, extra lights, and right hand drive conversion to deliver mail and packages as a postal rural carrier.
Facts on this point you're actually right. I'm gonna come to your video like this. I like your video. I'm gonna copy it cause you're right. A lot of people made a big mistake. They think their Van is a house. So what they do is all the electrical wise. They try and hide it so the economy can be beautiful and sexy I always say, tell people have your wife sticking out. Have your junctions where you can get to them cause if they break down in the Van. You wanna be able to get to it and break to fix it? Don't insulate it beyond the body. Because once you do that, it's gone for good. You can't get it to it, which mean it's gonna. You gonna have to break into it to get to the bad part of electrical work. Do not hide your electrical work. You are absolutely right.
MISTAKE NUMBER 6 standing directly on the roof of the van the roof isnt a load bearing area and it will bend the bars across the inside of the roof that's only designed to stop the panel vibrating, i see a number of vans where the customer complains about a rattle in the roof after standing on the panel when fitting vents and solar etc in extreme cases such as the the Seville vans such as the older promaster,relay,ducato,boxer it will crack the seam and allow water in
@@thrivans i see it all 2 often...also compatibility issues with polyurethane (pu)sealants like Sikaflex 252 not being compatible with some roof vents and solar panel brackets made from (pp) polypropylene plastics may be another content video for you
Thank you for sharing a wealth of information in a great video. It was easy to understand. I am wanting to start a project in preparation for when my wife and I become empty nesters. Right now that looks like it will be a year away. My plans have shifted over the years First I wanted to convert an old School Bus, Then a Sprinter type van, to now I want to build an Overland Camper on a F550 flat bed 4x4. I think what you have shared here will be the same in any if not all those situations. Again thank you I've subscribed to your channel so that I can learn more, hope that maybe our paths will cross some day to show you what I have done.
Great information, I just converted my Iveco Daily 70C, I don’t think there available in the US but they are a great platform to build on, its the same size as a large Sprinter but with 14,000 lbs max weight.
"all sound deadening is a waste of time." - why do i say that? when i'm in the back parked up I hear no road sounds. when I'm driving and I can hear road sounds, I'm in the front shut off from the rear! When its night time and i'm in the back I want to hear if theres things moving around outside the van... Much better to use the space for sound deadening for more insulation, which is pretty good for sound too
Facts, my friend, you're telling the truth. That's obviously the same thing. I loved it as people are stupid because they follow other bandwillis. Think for yourself when you overtime it. Because people say all the time when you insult your vehicle, you're better off it warms it up it. Don't do a d*** thing. Even a house is fully insulated. And still freezing cold in the house doesn't do anything really? The only thing it may do is slow down the moisture. That's all but the moisture will eventually take over eventually over years. You're not stopping nothing. It's a lot of cocking bowl.
Well done and helpful tips , I’m glad I connected you your videos since I’m about to start my first build , the links to various items are very helpful, making a list to order key components, will also try the dray food , thanks again
If you take the good advice of using a digital level, remember not to ''turn it round the other way'..... if you put it north to south on a 2' slope and reset it your golden, until you pick it up and turn around with it, then it will show 2' out and you will be building 2' out to the floor and 4' out in reality, so when you reset it keep it turned the same way! This 'error' is shown perfectly in the little demonstration at @5:46 where you see the level reset with the LCD display pointing to the front of the van, but then things are checked with the LCD pointing towards the rear, which would throw it out. I guess this was not spotted due to concentrating more on 'making the video' than building a van and is so understandable. I had issues adding a square cupboard door into a 45' corner cupboard with sloping walls, no matter what I did or measured from, a perfectly square door would just look wrong and i changed it 4 times at least, in the end i used a not square door and it looked right, and gave in to the universe not being happy with squares.
@ourhrivinglife you always go for the more complex installation off inverters, batteries, lot off fuses and converters or do you also use the easier newer solar generator stations like ecoflow bluetti etc. Wonder what the benefit off the complex system.
Thank you for the video! What does your van weight normally come to? Here in europe, the total van weight must be under 7700lbs 3500kg, including passengers.
This is brilliant. One request though. With regards to your amazon links, could you make them 'universal' - for other countries? I've clicked on some of the links and they are all from the US - even though some of them are available from the UK. Don't know if you'll get the affiliate commission from me moving on to another country. Best, Kaye
This is a great video. One thing I see in virtually all youtube videos about insulation is the way thinsulate is installed. I talked to a person at 3M and they said the black side is the stronger side and would be great for applying the adhesive to. I wonder why I don't see it done that way?
to insulate (against) what, that is the question. temperature? what exact physical property of thermal transfer do you want to insulate again? and those are the kinda questions "pro" and amateur / novices don't ask (themselves) because they don't know that there's a diff.
@@themax2go You are absolutely right, there are different types of thermal transfer. Insulating a building or an RV can be quite a complicated subject. There are 3 basic types of heat transfer, conduction, convection and radiation. Blocking all 3 in an RV is especially difficult due to the relatively thin wall space there is to work with. But, many van builders will say that some insulation is much better than none.
Interesting take on the “cheap Chinese cells” as almost every prebuilt battery contains them. The Chinese cells are great and for less than one BBorn battery I bought 8 280ah cells which in the equivalent of almost 6 BBorns.
Hah I did the same, eight 280Ah prismatic cells, two 12v packs. So far so good. But, different vendors will offer different quality cells, just have to find a good vendor who sells good products. Lots of folks have gotten burned receiving used cells.
@@wanderingzythophile9083 Someone made the argument that I may have received “B” cells (80% capacity). My rebuttal? I’ll take B cells at 450ah over $4000 in BBorn batteries every day.
Yes, I think too much generalization on Chinese products. I have been doing lots of research, and it seems people who have tested and disassembled batteries find that LiTime and others are well-built. Yes, the Chinese build some junk, but I find many Chinese products are high quality. For instance, many, if not most, computers are Chinese made, or at least contain major components that are. Reliability does not seem to be a problem in my experience. In any case, not all of us can afford the very best components. Having said that, many good tips in this video.
Sorry if I gave the wrong impression. I’m not saying all Chinese batteries and components are bad. Just the super cheap, no name brands. Many components for high quality companies are made in China.
nice opinion(s). that's about all this (and almost all other vids) is / are, they're essentially vid blogs full of opinion, leaving out all the physics that actually is (should be) the decision driver
I used deck screws for almost everything, much better and stronger than SS screws. I used Blue Seas wiring app for wire sizing. I ran all my plumbing and wiring in chases, I can modify or repair either one.
❤Hi!!!❤ First time seeing your channel. Will definitely watch your other vlogs. I have a lot of questions...please bear with me if I ask a question you may have answered in another vlog....for example, I have no idea if you have ever spoken about adding a second alternator to assist in charging so you don't overwork or burn out the original one.😊
I have a no build. all I want is a way safely charge small item during hot summer 🌞 day .. I got a bluetti power bank and was so excited, but it said not to operate it after 102°!!! What the hell? I need a way to charge things up what's something rugged and strong that can survive the hot summer months safely 💪.
Biggest mistakes I see are electrical which unfortunately you spent too much time on advertising rather than giving basic advice. Marine quality is NOT necessary for a van build unless you intend for it to be wet often! It's not. Good quality automotive is better. Use the correct tool for the connection don't solder, crimp the connection, support the cables every 12" or less, make a neat loom and keep the wiring neat and as short as necessary but not too short! Cover in 2 layers of binding, something like a tape and then a conduit. I usually wrap the conduit as well as it helps keep dirt and water out. Use relays! Short power runs, long control runs. Fuse often. Have Master Fuses! it all goes to a better build.
I found I couldn't get a reliable connection on my ebike unless I soldered it. It provided a cool, strong connection which literally never failed. What's wrong with soldering your connections?
@@marcus.H soldering tempers the wire so more likely and liable to fracturing. If purely joining wires and is supported well it will be fine, but for terminals and in high vibration applications it is not recommended. I've been making professional looms for automotive applications for about 30 years, I've seen a fair few failures in my time. One of my first looms I had the ability to disect, the loom aas still perfect on all my joints. My Land Rover I am part way through rebuilding, the solder joints on the battery cables failed within 15 years, they don't move.
😂Build order... Haha that killed me... I started the build before getting the motor right and that was expensive as hell 😢 now I'm spending a lot of money getting the motor, suspension, electrical and every critical system top shape before continuing the build...
I see people starting their project by insulating the van then drill a ton of holes, making sure that most of the metal shavings will be stuck in the insulation for ever.
Have you ever seen someone insulate using vacuum insulation panels? If so, how were the panels supported in a manner that protected them from abrasion and compression?
Save $10-15 thousand and all the risk of high voltage/high amperage electrics by using a simple propane stove. It's common on millions of boats that are a lot more air tight than a van. We have a 5 pound bottle in an airtight 5 gallon bucket with simple vent through the bottom of the van. Full time living aboard it lasts 6 weeks.
love your video. planning my new van and I got a lot of great tips from it. Curiously when you talked about batteries you only mentioned a few lithiums but did not mention anything a bout silicon dioxide batteries. Is it because there is a problem with them ? not reliable? from what i read they out perform lithium in many areas especially cold charging and durability
Silicon dioxide batteries have not been widely adopted for vans, RVs and marine applications. This may be due to their slower charge rate and steeper discharge curve vs lithium ion phosphate.
@@thrivans They do have a lower charge rate at.3c but for 200ah bank that 60 amp which is plenty for most solar or dc to dc. they do have steeper voltage drop but i never found that to be a problem and can totally compensated by running a 24 volt system . They do have a max discharge rate 19 times the 1C for lithium and can operate down to minus 40 to plus 60 degrees
I’m building a cargo trailer and my small amount of plumbing will definitely be accessible. We’re using a EcoFlo power station. It ain’t camping if you need 120 volts 🤣😂 Portable solar panels, we don’t need no stinking holes in the roof, charge controllers, inverters, or expensive extra batteries. Our power station can go through 10,000 cycles and STILL be charged to 80%. Why complicate things? $$$$$$😎
@@Dachshund-Nator thats fine for a weekend getaway but a lot of people live in there vans for months and even full time while working remotely. we all have different needs
I love Havelock Wool, but I hear it smells like a barn. I wanted to go with Thinsulate, but what can I use instead of the cancer causing chemical spray to keep the Thinsulate in place?? I would love to go green on insulation, but how??
Wool does smell like a barn for a couple of weeks, but the smell goes away. You can use string or cover the insulation with Reflectix to keep it in place.
I used insolation made with shredded blue jeans and reflectics cannot remember the name of it but then just covered that with I think it's called lueon a thin flexible wood used insolation board and solid plywood the good kind and linoleum my Ford Aero Star cargo van is solid I put a shiny tool box on the racks
you touched on building materials, thing I've noticed is the builds are way over weight, These vans weren't designed or built to be lived in, they're not sealed well and the body shell flex so when you add a bunch of 2X4's and 1/2 ply for a build then you've just about maxed out the load rating of the chassis and all the body seams are strained. Keep you electrical as simple as possible, way too many lights, too many service USB plugs. Wire size you touched on, keep your batteries as close to the charging point as possible, if you're using the vans alternator then the batteries should be just behind the drivers seat. Want to know how to build? Go look at a 1990's class C, Work Horse cassis, full truck frame and brakes rated for the intended load. Just to add, these Sprinter and Transit vans are so over priced, for the cost of a used 20ft class C, about 12K for a nice one, and ^60K for a transit, with the 48K you'll save and can be used for? The large sliding door, every time you open it in the winter you're losing heat and replacing it with cold very moist air, when that air is again warmed it has to lose that moisture so the inside of the van soaks it up. BTW, this term ?Stealth Camping" in town, or any where for that matter, don't think you're fooling anyone, Key to a successful build is planning and research, don't try to fit a house into a closet.
Buying the cheaper and higher gauge wires seems like the most likely to make your van go up in flames. The best van lifer advice I have heard was that things will always go wrong. Conduit on the van walls for easy access to the wires isn't going to make living in your van look any more homeless than it already is.
Bigger wires than what you currently need causes no problems that I am aware of (or that you mentioned). It also allows a person to add to their electrical system without also replacing all their wiring.@@glennbeattie6172
Bixby apply what is the best wood you don't use chipboard. A lot of people use chipboard or cheap plywood. I use heavy solid plywood which is the best and strong. I've had it in my Van for 5 years. 0 problems. I'm very strong, so use plywood, but again. You guys do what you want and follow this guy? If you want to apply what is the best the strongest. Yes, it's heavier. Don't give a d*** i*, does the job?
I will agree with you 110% with that part. Don't use IKEA furniture. I care furniture by definition is made cheap and c*** That's what a famous for making furniture quickly. And that's it, but don't put that c*** into your vampires. He's right about that. Ika furniture or avenged cheap chipboard. Furniture from the furniture store is c***** stuff. To put in your vehicle, don't do it. You're a bread off reply, wood solid plywood and make it yourself. Some more expensive liquid heavier. But it's better. I guarantee you it.
11:17 And don’t let Randy the mobile gambler install your Solar either. He does the most shittiest job you’ll ever see and have paid for and you’ll charge you nine times more than he should. But then again if you’re that desperate and you don’t have a clue,😢 then hire him so you’ll wish you had never met him 🤦🏼♂️😡
For safety, it’s almost like there should be a building code put into policy. Like building a home, where an inspection takes place before the next step can continue. I know this comment may not be popular with some, however for the inexperienced out there with no prior knowledge of van builds, some type of building code may save a lot of grief in the long run.for example I sold my van, it was a pro build, and I enjoyed it for years.I temporarily sold it to a couple for 6 months or so and when they were finished they’re trip I was to buy it back which I did.When I went to use it, it caught fire, turns out they mucked around putting in a fancy stereo and a roof vent fan, they claimed they knew what they were doing. Turns out they didn’t, I took them for their word and my old fav van is now in a parts yard somewhere.😢. just so blessed that I wasn’t in a deep sleep in it when it happened.So ya, if some building codes were in place and inspections done, I would still be an owner of a van and enjoying van life somewhere.p.s. That’s another thing I don’t see many people travelling with fire extinguishers. I carry them in all of my vehicles, used them 2 times and that was for other peoples units not mine. Stay safe out there everybody. This is a good video by the way, doing things the proper way is a big thing, I want to build my own since I can’t afford the brand new pleasureway or roadtreks. But honestly I’m scared to do that cause there is so much to know, electronics, cabinetry, plumbing and quite frankly I’m scared to buy someone else’s build cause I don’t know their skill set and I may run into a repeat scenario. Thanks for posting the video, very informative, learned lots.👍
Those Bradford bradford brand names you're going by name and you're gonna pay for the name. Patrick's all the same any listium battery can catch fire start, a Chinese brand alone. Even the top on musk's cause catch fire and those are good batteries. In Hazel, band did not made in China yet. They solve catch fire. So you're wrong with it, my friend. I don't use this gun bacteria. So are used regular batteries. Regular marine batteries are the best. I use, but again, H2 they're wrong. Think for yourself. Decide how you want to do it. I don't know for name brands because you're gonna pay for the name. I refuse to pay for name brands and I've had no problems up to now. I've had 5 comprograms for 5 years, no. I don't know what to wear, but if you want to follow this guy knock yourself out. I still think do your own research and figure out what you want to use.
Most problems is caused by RUclips videos it’s full of opinions not fact . People thinking they are qualified electricians. Bad weight distribution. Leave it to a qualified fitter . And certainly do not buy one that someone else has poorly put together
People overbuild there vans. Marine grade is a waste of money. Automotive grade wiring is just fine. Shiplap what a giant waste of weight!!! 1/4 ply with fabric glued on is a thousand times better. NOTICE he said nothing about electrical voltage. 12 volt systems SUCK! if you have an Inverter over 1000 watts, you should be building a 24v system. Over 2000 watts it should be a 48 volt system. Lithium batteries catch fire, is totally B,S. Lipo 4 Chinese batteries are just fine.
@@thrivans You can laugh, but he is not wrong. My brother is a head of QA for a large car battery maker and even he has said the same thing. The batteries out of the PRC have very much overtaken us in terms of value. Our Li battery industry did a 1970s auto screwup while the PRC went full on 1980s toyota.
Personally, I don't trust lithium batteries. The fact they burn so hot that they're difficult to put out, is enough for me. I'd rather use a herd of gerbils on exercize wheels if I could figure out how to train them! 🤣
Well, that's your opinion about electric pops. Religion is good. May not for you, but someone else has not loaded green cheap. I tell people buy what makes you comfortable. One brand is good for 1 person may not be a good brand for the next person. So make your own choices on that. You don't have to follow this guy and buy name brand all your bills gonna be very, very expensive. Buy what suits you and buy what you can afford.
This is great advice? Or a way to justify a $200K build? Factually.. this won’t affect resale after 5 years of ownership.. unless you find an enthusiast for your builder. DIY builders change and renovate their builds after a year or 2 on the road because as you use the thing, it clarifies what is and isn’t important to you and it isn’t difficult to modify. The failings are with ignorance of best practices.. but unlike the marine industry, the risk is much lower with a camper or van.. as long as your power systems are safe.. everything else is fixable.
I rather make my own ban.I'm not paying no m***** ******* lots of money to buy a Van hell.No.And I still recommend people.Dear wise the way to go just know what you doingI'll rather make my own ban. I'm not paying no m***** ******* lots of money to buy a Van hell. No, and I still recommend people. DIY is the way to go just know what you're doing.
No offense, you're talking some nonsense. There's no proper material to use you can use whatever you want. That's why it's called the LYI tell people use what makes you because you're trying to get people to spend money to you and buy your vans which you want a $100000 for hell. No I tell people buy good used vent for $10000 and a customer that 5000 to rebuild it. The way you want it now I'm that and you said we have a ton of money, so you're wrong.
Thank you. But your warries have a names solution: Bluetti | Ecoflow | Starlink. You are talking about trains. Now we have the technology for the Airplanes. I think people should be worried by other gigantic mistakes. VanLife's Behaviours, Knowledge regarding Places & spots, Whether checking control before moving the Van, learn a new way of Life. Right now, the technology is almost wireless even in electricity. My scares are people insane behaviours
Wow, that digital level is COOL! I realized early on as I began my build that a level in a van is useless because the van is probably not level. But this tool solves that problem. So cool! (I wish I had known about this sooner!)
We rebuilt our shuttle bus after 2 years, and Havelock Wool has seriously changed everything when it comes to thermal regulation! We made custom, made to fit shades for our windows, with Reflectix layer against the window, and Havelock Wool layer in-between, with a thick, heat holding fabric on the face. That has been an absolute game changer, keeping temperatures up by about +20° during freezing temps! Never had such a luxury!!
Awesome.
A man after my own heart. I minimised insulation and now I can sit upright in my standard van, my friend can't. I also have more space than most and U value is no difference. I have insulated screen covers for cold nights. Yes, to stainless screws, I changed all my ceiling screws, half of which had gone rusty. I have a different attitude to electrics, "none is better". I have no aux battery, no solar, no split charger, no inverter, which means no problems. Leave the bloody TV at home. I have a fused feed for lights and USBs and another fused feed from the ignition for the cold box, job done. As a backup I have a jump starter, only used it once, on someone else's van. A lot of sensible points, thanks.
I would be interested in the differences in a build for different climates, like rain coast, desert, northern, etc. I’ve seen -40 degrees this year, and all I can think of is insulation.
I did my own tiny home trailer. All wood, glued and screwed, r10, galvanized roof, insulated house door, one window, custom built heat exchanger, my plumbing is dump buckets and refillable blue water jugs, my electrical is extension coords ran through plumbing with shore power hook up. I did a diesel heater, electrical heating, tent wood stove. Summer time I will wrap the outside in aluminum and change the axle. Bin so much fun and it’s saved me a lot of money already this year. It’s already half paid for itself.
I just made my cabinets square in the shop....the uppers are square except for the back of the cabinets where it mounts to the wall. I used 3m, I used baltic birch through out...spring locking struts(marine type door props) inset hinges, deep heavy drawer slides...zero particle board. All quality materials. Very time consuming to build! I'm happy with my one and only van build, three years later my van is exactly how i built it, nothing has come loose or broken.I used pocket screws AND glue...absolutely no rattles or squeaks. 3 battle born batteries, top of the line Renogy, all marine grade and soldered connections, all wiring protected against rubbing in the walls...I double/triple/quadruple checked everything! I did my research on wire sizes, breakers everything!
Good job! You did it right. More expand time consuming, but well worth it. Happy travels!
You sound very proud of your work. It's obvious you know what you can't see is usually more important than what you can. It took you a while but you didn't sacrifice quality for a quick reward. I feel as you do, i could never relax if I was unsure of any of my electrical connections. I am happy for you. Peace
I agree with most of what you've said, but many are working on older vans, and so it's just not viable to use marine ply and fittings. Marine ply is much heavier, due to density, than regular DIY ply.
Sure, if you are working on a new, or nearly new van, then use the best you can afford.
As to insulation, is only works upto a a point, and it depends where you live, where you'll travel to, and the weather. I ain't going in the mountains during the winter, so my floor is just the steel, stripes of ply, and silver bubble, then 9mm ply, and then 9mm laminate, which I hate with a passion. Here in the UK, it doesn't feel cold to me. The main cold ingress are the cab windows, as you say. The only way to justify top notch build insulation, is proper internal insulated glass covers, and use an external insulated wrap cover. Open the door, and all your hard work is undone for 10 minutes.🤣
As to getting things plumb. I did my best. But it didn't bother me much. It all look close, but the van is never level, unless it's in that garage and that is rare. My van is virtually all ply, painted white, grey and orange, and to save weight, sliding cupboard doors on high units.
I agree about putting the bed in too early, but I wanted to travel, so it is what it is.
In passing, the thing which is going to kill van life in Europe, is that they are planning to interduce repair redundancy. So when a vehicle gets to a certain age, if something big breaks, they won't let you fix it. It's not in law, but they are toying with the idea. The West is full of Nazis!
I have no plans to sell my van. Cost too much, and a lot of personal time to do the work.
I will be purchasing my first van in less than two months, and while I love the design videos, your videos have been extremely educational. Thank you! God bless you both!!
Apart from the obvious confusion of fire hazard of Lithium batteries used in EV's with the much safer standard Lifepo4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) used in most battery banks, the rest was good information/opinions.
I was very worried about being able to have the van level through the build, specially since I own a 1998 Iveco Daily that likes to sit with the back fairly raised. Thanks to you I found a decent digital level and it's going to make my life MUCH easier.
Thanks you!
Glad I could help!
Great video. Especially the info about levels and making centre lines. Thankyou.
True about quality electrical components. off-brand amazon fuses have been found to just be flat out WRONG about their ratings. NOT something you want to put in your home.
Great stuff! Had no idea such a level existed. That is probably because all my DIY experience has been rooted in traditional carpentry, where everything needs to be level/horizontal to the ground.
Forgot to acknowledge that some van builders are approaching homelessness and limited budget. Some builders are only for 1 trip, or to 'try van life out'. Don't invest $5~10k for a one year horizon. Objectives, resources, motivations can be different. Planning and thought are wise.
I only do it in summer me and the fam go somewhere then we go back the van is better experience than regular car
Thank you so much for providing this invaluable information for those of us who are novice.
Glad it was helpful!
Consistently I’ve noticed people cutting roof vents (or other random holes in their van) but never sealing the metal with a rust proofing or automotive rust preventer
Well, I have the Citroen version of the Promaster. It's galvanised. I did treat the edges with rust paint, but the cut outs from the holes were left outside for 3 years, and only the cut edge had traces of rust. There was no rust under the pain, at all. If you were doing this on an older Ford or Mercedes, then you should apply 20 coats of rust proofing paint... 🤣
Huge advantage if you can get a galvanised van. The newer Sprinters are galvanised, but the prices are a joke, and so are the running costs.
Don't worry about your furniture having to be plumb. Your parking space is never plumb.
🤣
Thank you for being straightforward & informative! I learned so much in-just this video!
I am converting my minivan with solar and your quick rundown of issues hits a number of likely trouble spots. The lithium battery has a lot of components and energy, an internal short could happen, particularly if overheat or mechanical shock. If it starts smoldering, not sure a CO detector or regular smoke detector is better. Lithium fires seem difficult to put out, so whatever ahead of time containment or ejection setup maybe the only option. The larger RVs have metal battery bays outside
All new batteries have their own Battery Management System. They don't catch fire. Poorly fuse circuits can catch fire.
I've come to the reason for using conduit for my wiring. Ok it is visible but it's really easy to access and some of the brands nowadays look quite smart.
i HATE mdf boards for those reasons - heavier than plywood, if it gets wet it's done. oh yes, and for someone who's built thousands of flatpack/ikea stuff for customers, i loathe the low quality strength of particle board and mdf for holding hardware.
Ditto.
Love Thrive food!! Thanks for the tip on the digital level.
Great video ! It's for all these reasons (and there are more), as to why I would never build a van myself, and only choose to have one built by a select-few pro builders, such as yourselves.
Being a boat builder, and a van builder, the only main difference between marine grade ply and regular ply is the amount of voids. The glues are all very much the same. Sure marine grade is a better quality typically, but the cost is two to three times more. So unless it is for looks, regular (good quality) ply is just fine.
I'm looking to get a cargo van with a high roof, pass through from cab to cargo, add shelves, a spot for a composting toilet and a place to wash hands, extra lights, and right hand drive conversion to deliver mail and packages as a postal rural carrier.
Facts on this point you're actually right. I'm gonna come to your video like this. I like your video. I'm gonna copy it cause you're right. A lot of people made a big mistake. They think their Van is a house. So what they do is all the electrical wise. They try and hide it so the economy can be beautiful and sexy I always say, tell people have your wife sticking out. Have your junctions where you can get to them cause if they break down in the Van. You wanna be able to get to it and break to fix it? Don't insulate it beyond the body. Because once you do that, it's gone for good. You can't get it to it, which mean it's gonna. You gonna have to break into it to get to the bad part of electrical work. Do not hide your electrical work. You are absolutely right.
Have you ever tried insulating the floor from the outside? Like putting spray foam in areas that are far enough from the exhaust
You can minimize window opening and put thick inserts in the windows as well as divide cab with a wall or slide doors.
MISTAKE NUMBER 6 standing directly on the roof of the van
the roof isnt a load bearing area and it will bend the bars across the inside of the roof that's only designed to stop the panel vibrating, i see a number of vans where the customer complains about a rattle in the roof after standing on the panel when fitting vents and solar etc
in extreme cases such as the the Seville vans such as the older promaster,relay,ducato,boxer it will crack the seam and allow water in
That’s a big one!
@@thrivans i see it all 2 often...also compatibility issues with polyurethane (pu)sealants like Sikaflex 252 not being compatible with some roof vents and solar panel brackets made from (pp) polypropylene plastics may be another content video for you
Thank you for sharing a wealth of information in a great video. It was easy to understand. I am wanting to start a project in preparation for when my wife and I become empty nesters. Right now that looks like it will be a year away. My plans have shifted over the years First I wanted to convert an old School Bus, Then a Sprinter type van, to now I want to build an Overland Camper on a F550 flat bed 4x4. I think what you have shared here will be the same in any if not all those situations. Again thank you I've subscribed to your channel so that I can learn more, hope that maybe our paths will cross some day to show you what I have done.
Great information, I just converted my Iveco Daily 70C, I don’t think there available in the US but they are a great platform to build on, its the same size as a large Sprinter but with 14,000 lbs max weight.
Thank you for all the info. The best I’ve seen/heard. We are thinking of a 26’ box truck for a tiny home and traveling. So this is great info. 👏🏼
Glad it was helpful!
"all sound deadening is a waste of time." - why do i say that? when i'm in the back parked up I hear no road sounds. when I'm driving and I can hear road sounds, I'm in the front shut off from the rear!
When its night time and i'm in the back I want to hear if theres things moving around outside the van...
Much better to use the space for sound deadening for more insulation, which is pretty good for sound too
Yes. Insulation does a good job at deadening sound.
REALLY REALLY GOOD, FUNDAMENTALS--GREAT!!
Facts, my friend, you're telling the truth. That's obviously the same thing. I loved it as people are stupid because they follow other bandwillis. Think for yourself when you overtime it. Because people say all the time when you insult your vehicle, you're better off it warms it up it. Don't do a d*** thing. Even a house is fully insulated. And still freezing cold in the house doesn't do anything really? The only thing it may do is slow down the moisture. That's all but the moisture will eventually take over eventually over years. You're not stopping nothing. It's a lot of cocking bowl.
Well done and helpful tips , I’m glad I connected you your videos since I’m about to start my first build , the links to various items are very helpful, making a list to order key components, will also try the dray food , thanks again
If you take the good advice of using a digital level, remember not to ''turn it round the other way'.....
if you put it north to south on a 2' slope and reset it your golden, until you pick it up and turn around with it, then it will show 2' out and you will be building 2' out to the floor and 4' out in reality, so when you reset it keep it turned the same way!
This 'error' is shown perfectly in the little demonstration at @5:46 where you see the level reset with the LCD display pointing to the front of the van, but then things are checked with the LCD pointing towards the rear, which would throw it out. I guess this was not spotted due to concentrating more on 'making the video' than building a van and is so understandable.
I had issues adding a square cupboard door into a 45' corner cupboard with sloping walls, no matter what I did or measured from, a perfectly square door would just look wrong and i changed it 4 times at least, in the end i used a not square door and it looked right, and gave in to the universe not being happy with squares.
Very good point. I was just moving the level around for the video, but it is important to keep it oriented the same direction.
Wonderful advice. Thank you!
Thats why i watch a lot of van builds solar builds. Already worked as a plumber.
@ourhrivinglife you always go for the more complex installation off inverters, batteries, lot off fuses and converters or do you also use the easier newer solar generator stations like ecoflow bluetti etc. Wonder what the benefit off the complex system.
0:12 That thumbnail is the best 😅
Thank you for the video!
What does your van weight normally come to?
Here in europe, the total van weight must be under 7700lbs 3500kg, including passengers.
Our conversions come in at around 8,300 Lbs. on a Sprinter 144. Sorry to hear about the restriction in Europe.
Very, very helpful. Thanks!
Always heard stainless bolts were not as strong as high grade bolts
There are higher grade bolts, but compared to the zinc bolts you get at big box stores, SS is definitely stronger.
This is brilliant. One request though. With regards to your amazon links, could you make them 'universal' - for other countries? I've clicked on some of the links and they are all from the US - even though some of them are available from the UK. Don't know if you'll get the affiliate commission from me moving on to another country. Best, Kaye
This is a great video. One thing I see in virtually all youtube videos about insulation is the way thinsulate is installed. I talked to a person at 3M and they said the black side is the stronger side and would be great for applying the adhesive to. I wonder why I don't see it done that way?
to insulate (against) what, that is the question. temperature? what exact physical property of thermal transfer do you want to insulate again? and those are the kinda questions "pro" and amateur / novices don't ask (themselves) because they don't know that there's a diff.
@@themax2go You are absolutely right, there are different types of thermal transfer. Insulating a building or an RV can be quite a complicated subject. There are 3 basic types of heat transfer, conduction, convection and radiation. Blocking all 3 in an RV is especially difficult due to the relatively thin wall space there is to work with. But, many van builders will say that some insulation is much better than none.
This video is amazing. Thankyou
Im thinking about using exposed conduit instead of running electric behind walls.
Heat rises. Therefore, the ceiling/roof is most important unless your windows are leaking.
Interesting take on the “cheap Chinese cells” as almost every prebuilt battery contains them. The Chinese cells are great and for less than one BBorn battery I bought 8 280ah cells which in the equivalent of almost 6 BBorns.
Hah I did the same, eight 280Ah prismatic cells, two 12v packs. So far so good. But, different vendors will offer different quality cells, just have to find a good vendor who sells good products. Lots of folks have gotten burned receiving used cells.
@@wanderingzythophile9083 Someone made the argument that I may have received “B” cells (80% capacity). My rebuttal? I’ll take B cells at 450ah over $4000 in BBorn batteries every day.
Yes, I think too much generalization on Chinese products. I have been doing lots of research, and it seems people who have tested and disassembled batteries find that LiTime and others are well-built. Yes, the Chinese build some junk, but I find many Chinese products are high quality. For instance, many, if not most, computers are Chinese made, or at least contain major components that are. Reliability does not seem to be a problem in my experience. In any case, not all of us can afford the very best components. Having said that, many good tips in this video.
@@NMWanderings Agreed!
Sorry if I gave the wrong impression.
I’m not saying all Chinese batteries and components are bad. Just the super cheap, no name brands. Many components for high quality companies are made in China.
I love your channelllllllll! You guys are amazing!!!!!! Thank you so much.
Our pleasure!
Food for thought. Thanks for sharing
nice opinion(s). that's about all this (and almost all other vids) is / are, they're essentially vid blogs full of opinion, leaving out all the physics that actually is (should be) the decision driver
Great video thanks!
I used deck screws for almost everything, much better and stronger than SS screws. I used Blue Seas wiring app for wire sizing.
I ran all my plumbing and wiring in chases, I can modify or repair either one.
A 5 degree angle towards the driver side is perfect because you always park and the street is angled for water. You're welcome 😊
❤Hi!!!❤ First time seeing your channel. Will definitely watch your other vlogs. I have a lot of questions...please bear with me if I ask a question you may have answered in another vlog....for example, I have no idea if you have ever spoken about adding a second alternator to assist in charging so you don't overwork or burn out the original one.😊
Welcome!!
I have a no build. all I want is a way safely charge small item during hot summer 🌞 day .. I got a bluetti power bank and was so excited, but it said not to operate it after 102°!!! What the hell? I need a way to charge things up what's something rugged and strong that can survive the hot summer months safely 💪.
THANKYOU! SIR YOU ARE SHARP! AND AWESOME!
This was a great video.
Thank you!
Thank you for sharing the information.
3 ads in 8 minutes is too much for me 😢
Biggest mistakes I see are electrical which unfortunately you spent too much time on advertising rather than giving basic advice. Marine quality is NOT necessary for a van build unless you intend for it to be wet often! It's not. Good quality automotive is better. Use the correct tool for the connection don't solder, crimp the connection, support the cables every 12" or less, make a neat loom and keep the wiring neat and as short as necessary but not too short! Cover in 2 layers of binding, something like a tape and then a conduit. I usually wrap the conduit as well as it helps keep dirt and water out. Use relays! Short power runs, long control runs. Fuse often. Have Master Fuses! it all goes to a better build.
I found I couldn't get a reliable connection on my ebike unless I soldered it. It provided a cool, strong connection which literally never failed. What's wrong with soldering your connections?
@@marcus.H soldering tempers the wire so more likely and liable to fracturing. If purely joining wires and is supported well it will be fine, but for terminals and in high vibration applications it is not recommended. I've been making professional looms for automotive applications for about 30 years, I've seen a fair few failures in my time. One of my first looms I had the ability to disect, the loom aas still perfect on all my joints. My Land Rover I am part way through rebuilding, the solder joints on the battery cables failed within 15 years, they don't move.
@@overlandready wow 😧 I never knew that.
@@overlandready what is tempering the wire?
@@marcus.H baaically heating it up and making it brittle. Brittle breaks easier rather than bending.
😂Build order... Haha that killed me... I started the build before getting the motor right and that was expensive as hell 😢 now I'm spending a lot of money getting the motor, suspension, electrical and every critical system top shape before continuing the build...
Thanks for this!!
I can't find your listing for the rubber edging. Does it stay in place well?
Yes. It stays in place great. Link is in the description.
Or use a grade level with threaded leveler maybe no need for batteries.
Pretty awesome
Very informative
I see people starting their project by insulating the van then drill a ton of holes, making sure that most of the metal shavings will be stuck in the insulation for ever.
Very good point!
Helpful video, thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Have you ever seen someone insulate using vacuum insulation panels? If so, how were the panels supported in a manner that protected them from abrasion and compression?
I have not. Sorry.
What are your thoughts on using HDPE or King Starboard for walls? Very common in boats but I don't see vans using these much.
Sorry. I haven’t used either of these.
Thank you.... 😀
You're welcome 😊
Never heard the word “Plumb”! Lol
If u are not parked perfectly flat an level those methods won't work?
Save $10-15 thousand and all the risk of high voltage/high amperage electrics by using a simple propane stove. It's common on millions of boats that are a lot more air tight than a van. We have a 5 pound bottle in an airtight 5 gallon bucket with simple vent through the bottom of the van. Full time living aboard it lasts 6 weeks.
love your video. planning my new van and I got a lot of great tips from it. Curiously when you talked about batteries you only mentioned a few lithiums but did not mention anything a bout silicon dioxide batteries. Is it because there is a problem with them ? not reliable? from what i read they out perform lithium in many areas especially cold charging and durability
Silicon dioxide batteries have not been widely adopted for vans, RVs and marine applications. This may be due to their slower charge rate and steeper discharge curve vs lithium ion phosphate.
@@thrivans They do have a lower charge rate at.3c but for 200ah bank that 60 amp which is plenty for most solar or dc to dc. they do have steeper voltage drop but i never found that to be a problem and can totally compensated by running a 24 volt system . They do have a max discharge rate 19 times the 1C for lithium and can operate down to minus 40 to plus 60 degrees
I’m building a cargo trailer and my small amount of plumbing will definitely be accessible. We’re using a EcoFlo power station. It ain’t camping if you need 120 volts 🤣😂
Portable solar panels, we don’t need no stinking holes in the roof, charge controllers, inverters, or expensive extra batteries.
Our power station can go through 10,000 cycles and STILL be charged to 80%.
Why complicate things?
$$$$$$😎
@@Dachshund-Nator thats fine for a weekend getaway but a lot of people live in there vans for months and even full time while working remotely. we all have different needs
I love Havelock Wool, but I hear it smells like a barn. I wanted to go with Thinsulate, but what can I use instead of the cancer causing chemical spray to keep the Thinsulate in place?? I would love to go green on insulation, but how??
Wool does smell like a barn for a couple of weeks, but the smell goes away.
You can use string or cover the insulation with Reflectix to keep it in place.
I used insolation made with shredded blue jeans and reflectics cannot remember the name of it but then just covered that with I think it's called lueon a thin flexible wood used insolation board and solid plywood the good kind and linoleum my Ford Aero Star cargo van is solid I put a shiny tool box on the racks
@@thrivans or hpw about gorilla glue tape??
Rockwool
Thanks for the advice but please don't sneek ads into video . I pay for youtube premium so I don't get ads .
Now there’s a thumbnail to introduce a topic 😳
you touched on building materials, thing I've noticed is the builds are way over weight,
These vans weren't designed or built to be lived in, they're not sealed well and the body shell flex so when you add a bunch of 2X4's and 1/2 ply for a build then you've just about maxed out the load rating of the chassis and all the body seams are strained.
Keep you electrical as simple as possible, way too many lights, too many service USB plugs.
Wire size you touched on, keep your batteries as close to the charging point as possible, if you're using the vans alternator then the batteries should be just behind the drivers seat.
Want to know how to build? Go look at a 1990's class C, Work Horse cassis, full truck frame and brakes rated for the intended load.
Just to add, these Sprinter and Transit vans are so over priced, for the cost of a used 20ft class C, about 12K for a nice one, and ^60K for a transit, with the 48K you'll save and can be used for?
The large sliding door, every time you open it in the winter you're losing heat and replacing it with cold very moist air, when that air is again warmed it has to lose that moisture so the inside of the van soaks it up.
BTW, this term ?Stealth Camping" in town, or any where for that matter, don't think you're fooling anyone,
Key to a successful build is planning and research, don't try to fit a house into a closet.
I’ve also wondered if more weight is wearing on braking and accelerating that wasn’t designed for it.
Thanks!
🙏🏼
Buying the cheaper and higher gauge wires seems like the most likely to make your van go up in flames. The best van lifer advice I have heard was that things will always go wrong. Conduit on the van walls for easy access to the wires isn't going to make living in your van look any more homeless than it already is.
Buying oversized wiring is bad. You cause more problems than you solve. Proper design is the MOST important part.
Bigger wires than what you currently need causes no problems that I am aware of (or that you mentioned). It also allows a person to add to their electrical system without also replacing all their wiring.@@glennbeattie6172
*"...look any more homeless..."*
🤣 I don't consider an $80,000 cost a sign of *"homelessness."* 🤣
Bixby apply what is the best wood you don't use chipboard. A lot of people use chipboard or cheap plywood. I use heavy solid plywood which is the best and strong. I've had it in my Van for 5 years. 0 problems. I'm very strong, so use plywood, but again. You guys do what you want and follow this guy? If you want to apply what is the best the strongest. Yes, it's heavier. Don't give a d*** i*, does the job?
I will agree with you 110% with that part. Don't use IKEA furniture. I care furniture by definition is made cheap and c*** That's what a famous for making furniture quickly. And that's it, but don't put that c*** into your vampires. He's right about that. Ika furniture or avenged cheap chipboard. Furniture from the furniture store is c***** stuff. To put in your vehicle, don't do it. You're a bread off reply, wood solid plywood and make it yourself. Some more expensive liquid heavier. But it's better. I guarantee you it.
Oh.....be carefl concerning woodstoves?
Ecoflow is better than Victron
Do not build it. Go old school. Just sleep in it. Shit and shower out side of the van. No hot water, no ac or heating system. Old school.
No way dude. Totally wrong. Totally
11:17 And don’t let Randy
the mobile gambler
install your Solar either.
He does the most shittiest job you’ll ever see and have paid for and you’ll charge you nine times more than he should.
But then again if you’re that desperate and you don’t have a clue,😢 then hire him so you’ll wish you had never met him 🤦🏼♂️😡
Thanks for the warning. ⚠️
For safety, it’s almost like there should be a building code put into policy. Like building a home, where an inspection takes place before the next step can continue. I know this comment may not be popular with some, however for the inexperienced out there with no prior knowledge of van builds, some type of building code may save a lot of grief in the long run.for example I sold my van, it was a pro build, and I enjoyed it for years.I temporarily sold it to a couple for 6 months or so and when they were finished they’re trip I was to buy it back which I did.When I went to use it, it caught fire, turns out they mucked around putting in a fancy stereo and a roof vent fan, they claimed they knew what they were doing. Turns out they didn’t, I took them for their word and my old fav van is now in a parts yard somewhere.😢. just so blessed that I wasn’t in a deep sleep in it when it happened.So ya, if some building codes were in place and inspections done, I would still be an owner of a van and enjoying van life somewhere.p.s. That’s another thing I don’t see many people travelling with fire extinguishers. I carry them in all of my vehicles, used them 2 times and that was for other peoples units not mine. Stay safe out there everybody. This is a good video by the way, doing things the proper way is a big thing, I want to build my own since I can’t afford the brand new pleasureway or roadtreks. But honestly I’m scared to do that cause there is so much to know, electronics, cabinetry, plumbing and quite frankly I’m scared to buy someone else’s build cause I don’t know their skill set and I may run into a repeat scenario. Thanks for posting the video, very informative, learned lots.👍
It's not complicated for a pro.
It's simple protect every circuit with the proper fuse or breaker. Design is everything! Make it simple.
Your point about including a fire extinguisher is a good one. Better to have one and not need it. 👍
Those Bradford bradford brand names you're going by name and you're gonna pay for the name. Patrick's all the same any listium battery can catch fire start, a Chinese brand alone. Even the top on musk's cause catch fire and those are good batteries. In Hazel, band did not made in China yet. They solve catch fire. So you're wrong with it, my friend. I don't use this gun bacteria. So are used regular batteries. Regular marine batteries are the best. I use, but again, H2 they're wrong. Think for yourself. Decide how you want to do it. I don't know for name brands because you're gonna pay for the name. I refuse to pay for name brands and I've had no problems up to now. I've had 5 comprograms for 5 years, no. I don't know what to wear, but if you want to follow this guy knock yourself out. I still think do your own research and figure out what you want to use.
Most problems is caused by RUclips videos it’s full of opinions not fact . People thinking they are qualified electricians. Bad weight distribution. Leave it to a qualified fitter . And certainly do not buy one that someone else has poorly put together
People overbuild there vans. Marine grade is a waste of money. Automotive grade wiring is just fine.
Shiplap what a giant waste of weight!!! 1/4 ply with fabric glued on is a thousand times better.
NOTICE he said nothing about electrical voltage. 12 volt systems SUCK! if you have an Inverter over 1000 watts, you should be building a 24v system. Over 2000 watts it should be a 48 volt system.
Lithium batteries catch fire, is totally B,S. Lipo 4 Chinese batteries are just fine.
Thanks for sharing 🤣.
@@thrivans You can laugh, but he is not wrong. My brother is a head of QA for a large car battery maker and even he has said the same thing. The batteries out of the PRC have very much overtaken us in terms of value. Our Li battery industry did a 1970s auto screwup while the PRC went full on 1980s toyota.
Personally, I don't trust lithium batteries. The fact they burn so hot that they're difficult to put out, is enough for me.
I'd rather use a herd of gerbils on exercize wheels if I could figure out how to train them! 🤣
👎lost me when you inserted the advertisement 👎
Lots of videos do that
@@christinamann3640 and I 👎them too
I don’t mind the ads. Its the cost of learning “for free”. Keep the videos coming.
@@KenLeonard I pay each month to not see ads. Premium member.
@@zajournals you pay to not see ads? shame...
Well, that's your opinion about electric pops. Religion is good. May not for you, but someone else has not loaded green cheap. I tell people buy what makes you comfortable. One brand is good for 1 person may not be a good brand for the next person. So make your own choices on that. You don't have to follow this guy and buy name brand all your bills gonna be very, very expensive. Buy what suits you and buy what you can afford.
This is great advice? Or a way to justify a $200K build? Factually.. this won’t affect resale after 5 years of ownership.. unless you find an enthusiast for your builder.
DIY builders change and renovate their builds after a year or 2 on the road because as you use the thing, it clarifies what is and isn’t important to you and it isn’t difficult to modify. The failings are with ignorance of best practices.. but unlike the marine industry, the risk is much lower with a camper or van.. as long as your power systems are safe.. everything else is fixable.
I rather make my own ban.I'm not paying no m***** ******* lots of money to buy a Van hell.No.And I still recommend people.Dear wise the way to go just know what you doingI'll rather make my own ban. I'm not paying no m***** ******* lots of money to buy a Van hell. No, and I still recommend people. DIY is the way to go just know what you're doing.
No offense, you're talking some nonsense. There's no proper material to use you can use whatever you want. That's why it's called the LYI tell people use what makes you because you're trying to get people to spend money to you and buy your vans which you want a $100000 for hell. No I tell people buy good used vent for $10000 and a customer that 5000 to rebuild it. The way you want it now I'm that and you said we have a ton of money, so you're wrong.
12:50 辱华了😁 不知道 CCP 外交部会不会找你麻烦。
I didn’t say ALL Chinese products are bad, just the super cheap no-name ones.
Just kidding 😁. My heart is not as fragile as the CCP teaches.
Thank you. But your warries have a names solution: Bluetti | Ecoflow | Starlink. You are talking about trains. Now we have the technology for the Airplanes.
I think people should be worried by other gigantic mistakes.
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Right now, the technology is almost wireless even in electricity. My scares are people insane behaviours