Great video, Tim. I remember it well. Definitely go with rebar pegs for height. Saves masses of time. AND why no vibrating poker ??My three girls were having a Brownie camp in our field when the mixer arrived to pour 7 cube of wet concrete. I had to borrow back my eldest to work the other end of the scaffold board for tamping it down! That was 25 years ago but she still reminds me. Total admiration for what you are all doing.
Nice job Tim, concrete pours are so stressful but looks like it went real smooth. Suggestion, Add more ducting/access for future proofing. Cameras, cables electric chargers, intake venting for stoves, heat recovery systems, maybe rain water treatment in the future etc etc.
To safely remove a valve guide, you should drill a bigger diameter in it from the chamber side on almost the whole length… leave a few millimeter intact …then use a piece of round piece of steel the size of your drill to hammer the guide out. With this method you are pulling the guide (its OD will shrink a bit). By pushing it, like you did you create a small bulge that can definitely widen the hole in the head casting… or worse crack it. Nicolas
A good tip for when pouring footings is to hammer rebar pegs in at 2m intervals which are set to your finished concrete height. Then you simply pour the concrete to meet the top of the rebar which means you don't have to mess about with trying to guess if you have poured in enough before checking with the laser. Looks like you got it under control in the end though. And remember, if anything your footings want to be a tad lower so you don't have to cut blocks as it doesn't matter if your fist course is laid on a 25mm bed of mortar but cutting blocks is a PITA.
You meant rebar right? I wondered the same, I did use it, for a quite beefy retaining wall I did, my engineer told me to do it, plus I was pouring columns and tied the rebar for those into the footings so it made sense to reinforce everything, but it might not be a requirement in areas that aren't prone to earthquakes (ours sees occasional minor quakes so maybe that's why it's usual to reinforce).
give me a wet mix anyday.Practically self levelling and will still reach 2/3 strength after 7 days.i suppose you have used a 21n/mm mix so workable next day for walking on.The danger for shringage will be wind i would cover with damp sand(you have plenty of it) and keep it damp or more expensive use hessian(available in rolls) handy also for your mass blockwork/brickwork
Not required in any of those, it's pretty much on bed rock too so all nice and stable. Plenty of rebar to come with the retaining walls and slabs though.
@@TheRestorationCouple Hoped someone would ask about that. I believe it's not necessary in areas of no seismic activity to speak of but it does seem odd to my southern European eyes just to pour with no rebar. On the other hand I probably went overkill with my pavillion foundation project, the rebar was a heck of a job, would have loved not to have to do that.
The usual trick is to pound rebar into the trenches (every 1 or 1,5 meters) and cut them at the desired height - that way they work as datums: keep the ends of the rebar on the surface, even out and you are all set.
Hi Tim, it always happens at bloody same time doesn't it. Go for black and get black solar panels, it will look 👌 I have black solar and seen locally newbuild roof in black, looks great. Get rid of the dumper and get better one. You need proper good tracker, get an old Massey Ferguson, they are rock solid.
Its not required for mass trench fill concrete as the tensile strength at an increased thickness of 900mm is usually greater than any imposed load on the footing. If the footings were strip footings where the trenches are still 1 meter deep but the concrete is only 225mm then rebar is usually required in as the concrete won't have enough tensile strength. I'm no engineer and this is just how it has been explained to me in the past.
Instead of using the laser level on the tamping board post, better and easier to simply put large nails, bits of re-bar, or small wood pins in the side of the trenches at finished level of top of concrete every 3 metres or so, then mark with spray paint so they are easily visible, then pour in the concrete, stopping before it is too late!
Nervous breakdowns are optional. Can i suggest a wee lie down and a wee bit of Yoga tae get yer head straight. How did ye manage to shift the Cherry Picker that you didnae have a key for? Thanks for the vid. Onwards and upwards.
I was forced to ask another contractor on a job site to disable the strobe light on their heavy equipment, as it was triggering my laser receiver, making it impossible to get a reading. Replacement gear was less susceptible to such interference.
Hi Tim , concrete pour is always stressful , when you get concrete trunk in ,get them to mix it on the job its a lot easier that ready mixed
Great video, Tim. I remember it well. Definitely go with rebar pegs for height. Saves masses of time. AND why no vibrating poker ??My three girls were having a Brownie camp in our field when the mixer arrived to pour 7 cube of wet concrete. I had to borrow back my eldest to work the other end of the scaffold board for tamping it down! That was 25 years ago but she still reminds me.
Total admiration for what you are all doing.
Nice job Tim, concrete pours are so stressful but looks like it went real smooth. Suggestion, Add more ducting/access for future proofing. Cameras, cables electric chargers, intake venting for stoves, heat recovery systems, maybe rain water treatment in the future etc etc.
To safely remove a valve guide, you should drill a bigger diameter in it from the chamber side on almost the whole length… leave a few millimeter intact …then use a piece of round piece of steel the size of your drill to hammer the guide out.
With this method you are pulling the guide (its OD will shrink a bit).
By pushing it, like you did you create a small bulge that can definitely widen the hole in the head casting… or worse crack it.
Nicolas
Absolutely awesome work as always Tim. Would it be an idea to dig the pool a bit deeper (6 ft) so it’s deep enough to dive in safely?
A good tip for when pouring footings is to hammer rebar pegs in at 2m intervals which are set to your finished concrete height. Then you simply pour the concrete to meet the top of the rebar which means you don't have to mess about with trying to guess if you have poured in enough before checking with the laser. Looks like you got it under control in the end though.
And remember, if anything your footings want to be a tad lower so you don't have to cut blocks as it doesn't matter if your fist course is laid on a 25mm bed of mortar but cutting blocks is a PITA.
I’m watching you and you’re one step ahead of me…….I start laying my tiny slab next week. Learned a lot now I’m reading the comments 👍✅
Absolutely amazing! Could have used 4 or 5 more crew i think. If only for stress relief.
I’m surprised you don’t use repair in your footings. Great video that’s for sharing ❤
You meant rebar right? I wondered the same, I did use it, for a quite beefy retaining wall I did, my engineer told me to do it, plus I was pouring columns and tied the rebar for those into the footings so it made sense to reinforce everything, but it might not be a requirement in areas that aren't prone to earthquakes (ours sees occasional minor quakes so maybe that's why it's usual to reinforce).
Oow. Exciting. 👍
"power cut in the concrete plant" That old chestnut.
"It's only Tuesday, Mr. Mom."
It's Father's Day here in the States. So: Happy Father's Day.
So the only original part of the building is the metel frame?
Hi Tim, I was just wondering do you not need a vibrator to eliminate air voids in the concrete?
give me a wet mix anyday.Practically self levelling and will still reach 2/3 strength after 7 days.i suppose you have used a 21n/mm mix so workable next day for walking on.The danger for shringage will be wind i would cover with damp sand(you have plenty of it) and keep it damp or more expensive use hessian(available in rolls) handy also for your mass blockwork/brickwork
Where do you get the energy from, amazing..!
Looks great. I doubt a wet mix will be an issue because of the dryness of your ground, it being under cover. Very well done and hope Friday went well.
You must sleep well! 😂
I would've thought you would add rebar for stronger foundations. Or is that an over kill?
Not required in any of those, it's pretty much on bed rock too so all nice and stable. Plenty of rebar to come with the retaining walls and slabs though.
@@TheRestorationCouple Hoped someone would ask about that. I believe it's not necessary in areas of no seismic activity to speak of but it does seem odd to my southern European eyes just to pour with no rebar. On the other hand I probably went overkill with my pavillion foundation project, the rebar was a heck of a job, would have loved not to have to do that.
The usual trick is to pound rebar into the trenches (every 1 or 1,5 meters) and cut them at the desired height - that way they work as datums: keep the ends of the rebar on the surface, even out and you are all set.
Hi Tim, it always happens at bloody same time doesn't it. Go for black and get black solar panels, it will look 👌 I have black solar and seen locally newbuild roof in black, looks great. Get rid of the dumper and get better one. You need proper good tracker, get an old Massey Ferguson, they are rock solid.
Curious as to why there is no rebar in concrete wouldve thought building regs would require it
Likely they are using fiber reinforced cement.
Not for the strip footings other than where it meets existing concrete.
Its not required for mass trench fill concrete as the tensile strength at an increased thickness of 900mm is usually greater than any imposed load on the footing. If the footings were strip footings where the trenches are still 1 meter deep but the concrete is only 225mm then rebar is usually required in as the concrete won't have enough tensile strength. I'm no engineer and this is just how it has been explained to me in the past.
Instead of using the laser level on the tamping board post, better and easier to simply put large nails, bits of re-bar, or small wood pins in the side of the trenches at finished level of top of concrete every 3 metres or so, then mark with spray paint so they are easily visible, then pour in the concrete, stopping before it is too late!
Not sure what to do with Humpty Dumpty?
All the King's horses and all the King's men will put him together again?
Why no vibrater to make sure the concrete hasn't left air pockets?
Not much chance on that slump but we have one ready for the ICF fill. 👍
Nervous breakdowns are optional. Can i suggest a wee lie down and a wee bit of Yoga tae get yer head straight. How did ye manage to shift the Cherry Picker that you didnae have a key for? Thanks for the vid. Onwards and upwards.
Tim, I hear Velux roof windows. Have you considered KeyLite? Much cheaper and better quality IMHO.
Used KeyLite last time. Only reason for velux was the requirement for external shutter but may be available with others. 👍
I was forced to ask another contractor on a job site to disable the strobe light on their heavy equipment, as it was triggering my laser receiver, making it impossible to get a reading. Replacement gear was less susceptible to such interference.
Tim, I was wondering…do you ever go down the boozer for a skinful with your pals ?
🫡👊