Formadrain is the best product to create footings for ICF walls. They are light weight and easy to use. They are slotted on one side for superior drainage the entire length of the footing. They are easy to level and very home owner friendly. A first timer with some reasonable skills can create a perfect footing. I did it the first time by myself and it took one day to set it up including all the drain tile and installing some pvc cross drains to take the water either away from the slab or into an optional sump pump pit. I highly recommend a sump pump as well as either a gravity drain or a french drain depending on site layout. Formadrain is an excellent screed leveling system for your footing pour. It is also a great product for radon mitigation. Once you have a level footing I do not recommend pouring the slab until the ICF wall has been poured. This will allow anyone with a screw gun and mallet to plumb the forms. You can just use existing lumber from your building package to plumb your ICF's and then use them to build your structure. No waste. Simply screw boards to the plastic rebar clips in the forms and pound stakes into the dirt floor of basement for adjusting. If you pour slab first then you need a dedicated scaffold system that can only be used for ICF structures. ICF pours must be done in increments to insure against blowouts and voids in wall. Once your ICF's have been filled then all scaffold material can be reincorporated into structure and slab can be poured. ICF's are very homeowner friendly and make finished basements incredibly quiet and comfortable. They can lower heating costs by as much as 60%. This is ideal for areas where natural gas is not available. Propane costs can rise exponentially and fluctuate wildly with market conditions. ICF's can negate heating and cooling costs regardless of structure location and remove the chains of fossil fuel dependence. Remember you lose more heat through non insulated basement walls than through the roof.
@@onjofilms Lol, what? My older brother works as a programmer and designs videogame mechanics. It's impressive, but doing physical work so accurately will always be more impressive to me.
I'd heard about this system years ago on a program where the basement and house were built in a very cold area of the country (northern US or Canada, don't remember which). Gives the strength if concrete combined with insulation on exterior and interior walls. I was glad to actually see a video of construction using the system.
Unless it has something to do with the seismic requirements, the horizontal rebar is on the wrong side of the wall. The rebar should be located on the tension side of the wall, not the compressive side.
The drain tile placement starts a 12:36. To keep water away from the footing/wall interface and below the concrete pad, the top of the drain pipe should have been around the top of the footing. I know it is extra work to dig around the footings. My mistake was not being explicit enough with the excavator operator to dig the hole much bigger than the building size. I told him the building would be 36X36. That is the size hole he dug and that left me to make it bigger with my smaller tractor after he left. It was my first time building such a project but the excavator operator should have known better in my opinion or at least asked me enough questions about footing width and where the drain pipe was going. In my location we are required to have 16" wide footings for an 8" wall for residential construction. Most people pour 20" footings though. The footings in this video seem very large... I wonder if oversize footings are required in this location.
Sean, I know it’s a YEAR LATER. But, please reconsider using the icf for a full basement. There are so many hidden advantages that are not shown here, including time, $$, and the top floor’s construction. I’ve done about 200 of these in your part of the world and they can make your building life better, more profitable and easier. Hit me back if you want some more inside. Here’s a TIP: You can actually use the ICF walls to support your first floor joist hangers, and can place them before pouring the walls if you know what you’re doing. Then, you simply put plywood down on the joists, walk around on them and pour the basement walls. The home is squared, and plumbed by your floor system.
Those forms are such a great time saver. But it would kill me not to see, feel & smell those new concrete walls in my basement . It's like this great security blanket.
Buiding regs in most western European countries require a hardcore stone base for the footing to sit on, the soil will absorb the water from the concrete mix to some extent possibly causing problems in the future
Thank you for sharing! I was searching building basement video. Good to know someone build basement in CA. I live in Bay area. House on hillside. So thinking about building a basement wall on the hillside.
I have seen videos where vibration tools were place by the bottom of the outside walls and long flexible hoses were inserted into the freshly poured concrete to remove the air bubbles and insure that all spaces were filled. I didn’t see that on this video.
At least in my area, ( mich) the footer tile on the outside has to be below the top of the footer. Our code. Makes sense in that if the water around the outside of the wall gets above the footer top it is also above the top of your floor inside the basement. Any water that high up can an will find a crack an get into the basemant. Any water below the top of the footer cant be a problem Ive been a excavator builder for 42 yrs, sure its hard to hand dig around the footer an install the tile below the top of the footer then cover with peastone but your tile wont help in anyway to keep water out of your basement I hate seeing installers do crap like this.
Patrick Smith the waterproof membrane extends 8" below the bottom line of block/slab seam and wraps onto the footing. I have done this waterproofing process several times on large homes with deep basements, zero leaks, zero callbacks. Going on ten years through many wet winters, but thanks for the feedback
I have built entire houses in that amount of time. From excavation to complete framing and roof deck with shingle down, ready for window and door install and plumbing and electrical rough in. 17 days 5 guys!!!
@@Constructor-ly8in do you know where I can learn more about this? I am surprised it wouldn't add strength but I would like to understand more about why it would have the adverse effect.
Infinite Adam the concrete is a 3000 PSI mix, and the rebar design was done by my engineer to the seismic zone we are in, which is the same as Los Angeles (hence the large footings), so adding fiberglass to the mix as a strengthening agent isn’t necessary. I’m not sure where you would go for more info.
It worked out well. I was glad to see the waterproofing go on. Maybe the homeowner should have had the hole dug out at least 3' wider all the way around just to give the waterproofing people more room to work in. It got done though. That thing will last forever.
Wow, I love this video, really learned a lot from it! Please pardon my ignorance, but what is the hole in the middle of the floor for? Also, once the basement foundation and walls are completed (as shown in the video), what happens if it takes a while before you go to the next phase of construction and it rains a lot in the meantime? What is the industry norm to prevent the newly built basement from flooding during heavy rainfall, do you put a tarp over the entire roof or something? Thanks in advance.
@@Constructor-ly8in He's talking about the dug out hole before pouring concrete in the middle. I'm assuming you have a post or lolly column going there and needed the footing for it?
(Eng)Why did the rebar at the corners not bend at 90°? Have you studied the schemes and rules for binding rebar? (Rus)Почему арматуру на углах не загибали под 90°? Схемы и правила вязки арматуры не изучали? Если будет большая нагрузка на фундамент, без хорошего армирования углы стен могут расползтись.
Михаил Иванов which bars? All the vertical bars in the walls have 90 degree bends tied to the footings. Slab bars do not. The rebar was installed to the licensed engineer’s design/plans.
i rearly like your wall build and water profingits top notch..... whyle yoy are down there put 2 drain pipes around with alot of grawel around, the dranige pipe pipe are so low, i did this mistake only put one, i regreat that..
I must say the video is awesome. Just an idea for the next add some commenrary or minimal descriptions of why and what is exactly goin on for the oblivious like myself lol
Hey Guys! Nice Video! Did you guys install Water Bars or Bentonite Water Stops in Between the top of the Wall Footing and base of the Kicker? I didnt really notice it in the video, same goes with the top of the kicker and the actual wall basement? Thanks guys! :D
@@Constructor-ly8in - I think he means a water break between the top of the footer and the ICF wall. Instead of a water break, some people lay a poly sheet under the footer and wrap it after the pour, tying it in to the wall and slab membrane. If no water break, water can wick up from the base of the footer into the wall. But I’m not familiar with ICFs and maybe they don’t call for this?
Could you clarify something? It say's "$30,000 in Excavations," does that mean just the groundwork? I.E. digging the hole and using the equipment? Then add the cost of concrete, labor and material on top of that $30k? Or is $30k the total investment? I guess I am unsure what "n.i.c" stands for? Construction code?
Wow that footer appears to be about 4 ft wide and 3ft thick. I've put grade beams in for major builds that weren't that big . Big no no putting rocks of bricks under rebar to hold it up. Code calls for chair.
Timothy Evagash, you’re absolutely right about the rocks!! However, in Los Angeles, where my actual company is, we still use concrete dobies and they do meet code/are approved here. Footing was designed by my LA engineer at 3-8 wide by 18” deep. It grew larger because of the rocks and sand ancient river bed we were in.
Chris LEA it is in northeastern California and is considered high desert at 5000 feet. Temperatures range between 95-100 at the highs to low teens to 30’s in winter, with occasional sub-zero temps.
They are exactly that. The actual engineering was for 18" deep but we are on top of an ancient river bed and we had to go deeper to get to stable material.
The basement is completely underground with a two story building on top of it that extends out in both directions, no place to put windows or a door. I thought was interesting that the building department passed it that way, too.
@@Constructor-ly8in Thanks for the reply - After posting, I looked at all the comments and figured out the reasons. Great work. And I have to remember that you are in CA, so you don’t need a 2000 lb boiler system in the basement to eventually have to replace... In New England, the HVAC crew would bring a backhoe and concrete saw along with their install instructions to a job like that. Haha!
The engineered plan called for an 18”x3’-8” wide footing, but we were building in an ancient river bed which created issues with finding a stable trench, cave-ins, etc, so the footing got a bit deeper than plan. We are in a seismic zone D there, also.
I would like to know why you have to put the 2x4 from the 4 corners straight to the middle. for what reason I would like to understand so I will follow and do it my country Laos. Please reply me. I really want to learn from you. please n please
Is there information regarding comparative longevity of ICF compared to the cement block system mentioned below? To me, sturdiness and longevity would be a major factor to consider.
J. B. ICF's will last for ever, but they do require a finished surface where exposed to the exterior/sunlight, etc. I will be applying a stucco finish from the sill plate to a few inches below grade.
These guys are professional no doubt. I am puzzled thou about the constructor NOT making a low drainage string around or under the concrete foundation. Water surely now will suck up from underneath despite the heavy insulation at the walls from utside. Weird.
There is a 4" schedule 35 perforated pipe around the entire foundation at the footing which drains into the sump well in the center of the slab, is this what you are referring to?
How is waterproof membrane inside connected with waterproof membrane outside the basement?Ground force is problem everywhere in the world so double zone of rebar with 4"×4" checks(concrete min 6") would be way better,stronger and save basement floor from possible cracks...
Bruno Maric, if you are talking about the yellow sheeting (15 mil StegoWrap), it is a moisture barrier only. The exterior wall waterproofing and perimeter drain will keep the basement from flooding and reduce hydrostatic pressure. Thanks!
I am a carpenter with over 40 years construction experience in Ontario, Canada, and if I was building my own house this is the system I would use! Just think of the reduction of forming materials waste alone & the impact/or reduction of impact on forestry & the environment!
Let's say I was building a home in Naples, Fl and I wanted to make it hurricane-proof. How thick can ICF walls be made to? One foot thick? two? I can't seem to find info about that.
It seems like it takes too long. With Advance or Ready forms you could do that small structure in 2 days and strip in the morning of the third. Also it looks as though your plan is to tie into the existing structure and Advance forms and plywood would do during the initial pour. Maybe it's code where you are for commercial buildings.
Sorry mister. I just read your comments down below. Answered all of my questions. Should have looked first. Also I looked up this quaint little town in Northern California. So where is the project completion video?
99.3% of people reading your comment probably think Benny Hill was some kind of icf/basement system pioneer! LOL! Anyway, as an adolescent, I used to love watching Benny Hill - he was awesome...and the ‘extras’...
steve dennis no plumbing in the basement, there is a sump well in the middle of the slab that two perimeter footing drains drain into. No windows as there will be additional foundation/crawlspace on the front, right, and left sides. Far side will have a deck extending off of the first floor. It is mostly a basement for mechanical; well pressure tanks, hot water, and a future wine cellar. The building will be a hotel, restaurant and bar.
Where are you located? I am a structural engineer in Colorado used to heavy snow and wind loads plus we have expansive clay through silt only soils. I would love to hear what your design criteria is. You have a wide footer, much wider to the inside of the wall, with lots of vertical rebar. You then add a heavily reinforced single layer of lots of reinforcement in the slab. I understand the pit in the floor but I am puzzled by wasting a yard of so to fill a hole that could be filled by dirt. ICF are a good choice if you are heating and finishing the basement. If you are not going to finish it, most building departments want it covered for fire protection anyway. I am puzzled also by no windows? One good trick is if your are finishing windows later, Install the bucks with treated wood plugs. At a later date you can add egress windows for usable space.
Geoff Robinson this location is in the very northeastern corner of California 6 miles from Nevada and 40 miles south of Oregon. Because of the heavy geothermal activity here we are in seismic zone D, wind loads are 110 mph (we get hellacious winds here in the winter up to the max 110). Snow loads are 40 psf for a flat roof. The designed footing was 3'-8" wide, but the site is on an ancient river bed and the excavations got wider because river rock kept falling in on both sides. The vertical bars are the hooks for the walls, the near end was spaced at 8" because we exceeded the design max depth from grade of 6' by a foot. All others were at 16". The slab steel is #4's at 16" centers (my company is Los Angeles based as is the engineer, #4 bars are standard in slabs there, not sure what it is elsewhere). The choice of ICF's was partly for Insulation, and partly because the site is so remote there is an extreme lack of sub contractors; no masonry contractors within 150 miles, so I was able to build it myself with the ICF's. The walls will be finished with 5/8 type X drywall to meet fire codes. I will be building all the other stem walls with ICFs also to add to the overall energy efficiency of the building. No windows are required as the basement is not a living space, and the top of the basement walls are only 32" above grade.
I did not answer your question regarding the hole...that is a low pad for a 6x6 post supporting an 8 x 12 flush beam above that supports the floor joists over the basement. There is a CB66 there that is hard to see.
![Chino Pacas - Modo Capone (with Drake & Fuerza Regida) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zjv8TQ0gBkg/mqdefault.jpg)
Good to see a basement in California...every home needs a basement even in warmer climates
warmer climates is where you'd want a basement most right?
@@blixxy1320 absolutely ! Nice and cool below ground.
WOW, the foundation walls and slab took a ton more work than I would have thought. Thanks for the real world education.
Jeffrey Lane
@
ĺ
I wonder ... for windows of foundation...I don't seem...
yes i think so
Formadrain is the best product to create footings for ICF walls. They are light weight and easy to use. They are slotted on one side for superior drainage the entire length of the footing. They are easy to level and very home owner friendly. A first timer with some reasonable skills can create a perfect footing. I did it the first time by myself and it took one day to set it up including all the drain tile and installing some pvc cross drains to take the water either away from the slab or into an optional sump pump pit. I highly recommend a sump pump as well as either a gravity drain or a french drain depending on site layout. Formadrain is an excellent screed leveling system for your footing pour. It is also a great product for radon mitigation. Once you have a level footing I do not recommend pouring the slab until the ICF wall has been poured. This will allow anyone with a screw gun and mallet to plumb the forms. You can just use existing lumber from your building package to plumb your ICF's and then use them to build your structure. No waste. Simply screw boards to the plastic rebar clips in the forms and pound stakes into the dirt floor of basement for adjusting. If you pour slab first then you need a dedicated scaffold system that can only be used for ICF structures. ICF pours must be done in increments to insure against blowouts and voids in wall. Once your ICF's have been filled then all scaffold material can be reincorporated into structure and slab can be poured. ICF's are very homeowner friendly and make finished basements incredibly quiet and comfortable. They can lower heating costs by as much as 60%. This is ideal for areas where natural gas is not available. Propane costs can rise exponentially and fluctuate wildly with market conditions. ICF's can negate heating and cooling costs regardless of structure location and remove the chains of fossil fuel dependence. Remember you lose more heat through non insulated basement walls than through the roof.
Oh my God that's an incredible amount of materials and incredible amount of labor and a tiny little house. Fabulous video 👍⚒️⚒️
@prowlfilm Yup and overkill build for a basement.
looked like a days work, never saw it go dark once
@Daver G 750 sq ft is quite a small foundation. But putting 2 or 3 stories on top of it changes things, but not much.
@Daver G Yes it's small.
ruclips.net/video/4lbI-cBhkm8/видео.html
Construction workers are frickin awesome. Y'all do amazing work.
Only because you never see a programmer work.
@@onjofilms Lol, what? My older brother works as a programmer and designs videogame mechanics. It's impressive, but doing physical work so accurately will always be more impressive to me.
This is some good stuff. 15'x30' house with full basement and upstairs bedroom loft. All I have to do now is win the Saturday classic lottery.
Just in case anyone's curious: this site is in Eagleville, Modoc county, northern California, near the border with Nevada.
good
Amazing continuous video capturing. Days of work in few minutes. Wow , we can clearly see the sun is rising and setting. Also nice basement building.
Love this timelapse! So exciting watching it all come together!
I'd heard about this system years ago on a program where the basement and house were built in a very cold area of the country (northern US or Canada, don't remember which). Gives the strength if concrete combined with insulation on exterior and interior walls. I was glad to actually see a video of construction using the system.
Yes, we build houses like this here in north america.
That shot with the clouds passing above was especially satisfying
2:49 just as they start laying concrete.
Excellent camera-work.
After 40 years in construction I'm not easily impressed by workers, but this crew is tops!
I’m here because my house is currently being built with a basement by Ryan homes.. just wanted to see what the process was! This is COOL..
Unless it has something to do with the seismic requirements, the horizontal rebar is on the wrong side of the wall. The rebar should be located on the tension side of the wall, not the compressive side.
so glad I work in a cubicle and goof around half the day on my phone. these guys are working hard in a dangerous environment.
you didn't look like this in Russia)))
Nice work! Superior materials and craftsmanship compared to most that I see. Thanks for sharing!
Definitely saving this, so when I move to MO I can make one.tha k you very much for educated video
The drain tile placement starts a 12:36. To keep water away from the footing/wall interface and below the concrete pad, the top of the drain pipe should have been around the top of the footing. I know it is extra work to dig around the footings. My mistake was not being explicit enough with the excavator operator to dig the hole much bigger than the building size. I told him the building would be 36X36. That is the size hole he dug and that left me to make it bigger with my smaller tractor after he left. It was my first time building such a project but the excavator operator should have known better in my opinion or at least asked me enough questions about footing width and where the drain pipe was going.
In my location we are required to have 16" wide footings for an 8" wall for residential construction. Most people pour 20" footings though. The footings in this video seem very large... I wonder if oversize footings are required in this location.
i just made the same comment, the footings seem giant to me. i wonder how big they actually are
I’m building 2 houses in Georgia next year. And this video is the exact reason why I’m going with a crawl space...as opposed to basement.
Done yet? Change your mind?
Sean, I know it’s a YEAR LATER. But, please reconsider using the icf for a full basement. There are so many hidden advantages that are not shown here, including time, $$, and the top floor’s construction. I’ve done about 200 of these in your part of the world and they can make your building life better, more profitable and easier. Hit me back if you want some more inside. Here’s a TIP: You can actually use the ICF walls to support your first floor joist hangers, and can place them before pouring the walls if you know what you’re doing. Then, you simply put plywood down on the joists, walk around on them and pour the basement walls. The home is squared, and plumbed by your floor system.
Stephen Taylor Thank you for the input. Contact me if you can (seacake11@gmail.com), and I’ll give you a specific update.
Those forms are such a great time saver. But it would kill me not to see, feel & smell those new concrete walls in my basement . It's like this great security blanket.
percival23 👍the R-23 Insulation value is pretty nice, though.
Buiding regs in most western European countries require a hardcore stone base for the footing to sit on, the soil will absorb the water from the concrete mix to some extent possibly causing problems in the future
Maybe on an 8 inch pour. That foundation is HUGE.
@@timbrown9305 No kidding! There's more concrete in that footer than in my foundation!
Do you have any idea how many pancakes it takes to roof a dog house? If so, you would know.
@@jeffron7 I use waffles.
two of the most exemplary individuals in the world!!but as a couple...tre formidable' !!!!!!
o
wow very good costruction
Thank you for sharing! I was searching building basement video. Good to know someone build basement in CA. I live in Bay area. House on hillside. So thinking about building a basement wall on the hillside.
Great content. Thanks for the video!
Holy crap that's a LOT of footing/concrete...Seismic regulations ? Wow...
David Bruce yes!, seismic zone D, same as Los Angeles, which blew me away.
Thanks, that was my one question. Seemed like an awful lot of footing.
I was gonna say the same thing, why such I giant footer, it’s like ft Knox
Okay, got it. Good reason. Thanks for the show, it was great.
I have seen videos where vibration tools were place by the bottom of the outside walls and long flexible hoses were inserted into the freshly poured concrete to remove the air bubbles and insure that all spaces were filled. I didn’t see that on this video.
Milton Ross the two guys following the hose were using the electric vibrator...hard to see in them doing that in the video.
Code in Florida just mention internal vibrating. They never mention external.
Foundation overkilled!!
Nice thoug
Grinder79 Aleixo yeah, no kidding...California engineers....
Where's the exterior foundation drainage?
Edit: found it lol
Aside from that, this looks awesome!! Good job!
Good to see the wrap on the basement. Any modern basement that's not properly wrapped with a drainage system isn't worth owning.
At least in my area, ( mich) the footer tile on the outside has to be below the top of the footer. Our code. Makes sense in that if the water around the outside of the wall gets above the footer top it is also above the top of your floor inside the basement. Any water that high up can an will find a crack an get into the basemant. Any water below the top of the footer cant be a problem Ive been a excavator builder for 42 yrs, sure its hard to hand dig around the footer an install the tile below the top of the footer then cover with peastone but your tile wont help in anyway to keep water out of your basement I hate seeing installers do crap like this.
Patrick Smith the waterproof membrane extends 8" below the bottom line of block/slab seam and wraps onto the footing. I have done this waterproofing process several times on large homes with deep basements, zero leaks, zero callbacks. Going on ten years through many wet winters, but thanks for the feedback
What kind of use this building were made for? Is it a bunker?
This is a basement for a hotel, restaurant, and bar. Will house a wine room and utilities, well pressure tank, hot water, etc.
Fuck, these guys move quick. That had that whole thing done in 15 minutes
I obviously saw a better crew as when I watched this, it only took 7 and a half minutes ...
Just curious. Why would you waterproof the walls before pouring concrete? Wouldn’t there be movement to make that membrane fail??
Sorry, I haven't noticed it. Better to be sure. Congratulations on your basement works.
Why did you guys not place a waterproof layer under the foundation? To prevent moisture from coming up from the ground? Just wondering
Holy Hell, Prices out in California are insane!! 30k For that tiny basement??? I need to become a contractor on the other coast!
btw.. Good Vid to watch!
Yea it's ridiculous
Those are the thickest footings I’ve ever seen. Was that engineered?
Paris Ashcroft yes but they ended up being 4” deeper than what was called for, ancient river bed/caving issues
I have built entire houses in that amount of time. From excavation to complete framing and roof deck with shingle down, ready for window and door install and plumbing and electrical rough in. 17 days 5 guys!!!
Yeah this looks a lil gimmicky, alot of work with minimal benefit......
Construction is a great. Art 👍
Would there be any benifit to using fiberglass in the concrete in the walls in addition to the rebar?
Infinite Adam, no, that would weaken the design of the concrete mix.
@@Constructor-ly8in do you know where I can learn more about this? I am surprised it wouldn't add strength but I would like to understand more about why it would have the adverse effect.
Infinite Adam the concrete is a 3000 PSI mix, and the rebar design was done by my engineer to the seismic zone we are in, which is the same as Los Angeles (hence the large footings), so adding fiberglass to the mix as a strengthening agent isn’t necessary. I’m not sure where you would go for more info.
It worked out well. I was glad to see the waterproofing go on. Maybe the homeowner should have had the hole dug out at least 3' wider all the way around just to give the waterproofing people more room to work in. It got done though. That thing will last forever.
Easily watchable at 2x speed. YOUR WELCOME!
*you're
@@aap71 I learned proper English from people like you on RUclips. Thank you! Wait for it people...
Wow this looks like a proper foundation to me
Very informative. Was a concrete vibrator used, did not see one?
I wondered the same thing, if not why.
thats the great thing about useing ICF it hides all the honeycomb...
Scottish NS Rail Fan, yes each lift was vibrated, three total
it is laying on top of scaffold planks, you can see the power cord
Ok, see it now.
Wow, I love this video, really learned a lot from it! Please pardon my ignorance, but what is the hole in the middle of the floor for? Also, once the basement foundation and walls are completed (as shown in the video), what happens if it takes a while before you go to the next phase of construction and it rains a lot in the meantime? What is the industry norm to prevent the newly built basement from flooding during heavy rainfall, do you put a tarp over the entire roof or something? Thanks in advance.
Anthony Ortiz the yellow sheet in the video is a 15 mil moisture barrier (Stegowrap)
@@Constructor-ly8in He's talking about the dug out hole before pouring concrete in the middle. I'm assuming you have a post or lolly column going there and needed the footing for it?
@@onjofilms Yes, center post for 8x14 PSL beam
Thank you very much for making this video.
(Eng)Why did the rebar at the corners not bend at 90°? Have you studied the schemes and rules for binding rebar?
(Rus)Почему арматуру на углах не загибали под 90°? Схемы и правила вязки арматуры не изучали?
Если будет большая нагрузка на фундамент, без хорошего армирования углы стен могут расползтись.
Михаил Иванов which bars? All the vertical bars in the walls have 90 degree bends tied to the footings. Slab bars do not. The rebar was installed to the licensed engineer’s design/plans.
With a foundation that thick it must be in an earthquake-prone area.
Deep house that went one deeper
Looks like some great work thank you for the video.
Thanks for posting a full video
i rearly like your wall build and water profingits top notch..... whyle yoy are down there put 2 drain pipes around with alot of grawel around, the dranige pipe pipe are so low, i did this mistake only put one, i regreat that..
I agree totally... or 3... always think ahead maybe you need to bring in electrical.
I must say the video is awesome. Just an idea for the next add some commenrary or minimal descriptions of why and what is exactly goin on for the oblivious like myself lol
mark bradeis, great idea and I will do that on the next phase, framing
Hey Guys! Nice Video! Did you guys install Water Bars or Bentonite Water Stops in Between the top of the Wall Footing and base of the Kicker? I didnt really notice it in the video, same goes with the top of the kicker and the actual wall basement? Thanks guys! :D
I've been a GC in Los Angeles for 30 years and this is the first i've heard of Water Bars/Bentonite Water Stops, what are they?
@@Constructor-ly8in - I think he means a water break between the top of the footer and the ICF wall.
Instead of a water break, some people lay a poly sheet under the footer and wrap it after the pour, tying it in to the wall and slab membrane.
If no water break, water can wick up from the base of the footer into the wall. But I’m not familiar with ICFs and maybe they don’t call for this?
Could you clarify something? It say's "$30,000 in Excavations," does that mean just the groundwork? I.E. digging the hole and using the equipment? Then add the cost of concrete, labor and material on top of that $30k? Or is $30k the total investment?
I guess I am unsure what "n.i.c" stands for? Construction code?
No, 30k all-in, hole to backfill, ICF’s, etc.
Excellent video, thanks.
There should be full series of construction next to it as well
That is an overkilled foundation!!!
Grinder79 Yolo per the engineering. Seismic zone D and there are two stories and a full attic above (3 stories)
Amazing video, i could not stop watching this :)
DAVY. J.Y. Thank you!
Very nicee 👍
Very good job
Nice timelapse.
Is that Official music video? I really like that!
Good music!... 🎵🎶🔈🔉🔊
only issue I see is the rebar should be towards the inside of the form. All the pressure to crack will be there.
Wow that footer appears to be about 4 ft wide and 3ft thick. I've put grade beams in for major builds that weren't that big . Big no no putting rocks of bricks under rebar to hold it up. Code calls for chair.
Timothy Evagash, you’re absolutely right about the rocks!! However, in Los Angeles, where my actual company is, we still use concrete dobies and they do meet code/are approved here. Footing was designed by my LA engineer at 3-8 wide by 18” deep. It grew larger because of the rocks and sand ancient river bed we were in.
I enjoyed the hell out of that.
Superb job gentlemen. I’m just wondering where was this built?
Eagleville California
Very nice clip. Hey I was wondering in what climate this house was built?
Chris LEA it is in northeastern California and is considered high desert at 5000 feet. Temperatures range between 95-100 at the highs to low teens to 30’s in winter, with occasional sub-zero temps.
Wow, excellent video ... I learnt a lot... thanks !
Enjoyed watching this video a lot, what was that hole in the center for?
drain water out
holly cow how big are those footers, it looks like 3 feet wide and 2 feet deep. obviously its perspective but im still very curious
They are exactly that. The actual engineering was for 18" deep but we are on top of an ancient river bed and we had to go deeper to get to stable material.
I think that if i did this job I would have excavated for drainage to keep rainwater away from the foundation
Don't look like that place gets much rain. But I don't know
When laying the slab did the 2x4's stay in the slab? I did not see them come out. I think you used them for leveling.
Mark M they were screeds and they came out.
Nice video. But, no windows or doors (cutout for bulkhead stairway)?
The basement is completely underground with a two story building on top of it that extends out in both directions, no place to put windows or a door. I thought was interesting that the building department passed it that way, too.
@@Constructor-ly8in Thanks for the reply - After posting, I looked at all the comments and figured out the reasons. Great work.
And I have to remember that you are in CA, so you don’t need a 2000 lb boiler system in the basement to eventually have to replace... In New England, the HVAC crew would bring a backhoe and concrete saw along with their install instructions to a job like that. Haha!
Great video, thanks for posting! Why is the footing so thick? Is that for seismic reasons?
The engineered plan called for an 18”x3’-8” wide footing, but we were building in an ancient river bed which created issues with finding a stable trench, cave-ins, etc, so the footing got a bit deeper than plan. We are in a seismic zone D there, also.
@@Constructor-ly8in Thanks for the reply! I am in Maine and 'seismic' is a word that most people have NEVER heard of!!! Keep up the great work! Cheers
I would like to know why you have to put the 2x4 from the 4 corners straight to the middle. for what reason I would like to understand so I will follow and do it my country Laos. Please reply me. I really want to learn from you. please n please
Thanks for sharing. Cool process.
nice system make wall. i like
Hi, great work. A question: How material is made a withe walls? Thx.
Francisco Javier Salazar Marin they are styrofoam blocks.
When laying down the blocks I thought you had to start at the corners and work toward the center of the wall.
If it's a odd measurement, yes. Then they would need to use the common seam setup. But if the full length icf panels match their dimensions, then no
It would be cheaper to build your forms for your walls the old fashion way. Are they some extra benefit, pluses, and/or upsides to this way?
F. I love hard work. To finish u have to start.
Is there information regarding comparative longevity of ICF compared to the cement block system mentioned below? To me, sturdiness and longevity would be a major factor to consider.
J. B. ICF's will last for ever, but they do require a finished surface where exposed to the exterior/sunlight, etc. I will be applying a stucco finish from the sill plate to a few inches below grade.
These guys are professional no doubt. I am puzzled thou about the constructor NOT making a low drainage string around or under the concrete foundation. Water surely now will suck up from underneath despite the heavy insulation at the walls from utside. Weird.
There is a 4" schedule 35 perforated pipe around the entire foundation at the footing which drains into the sump well in the center of the slab, is this what you are referring to?
How is waterproof membrane inside connected with waterproof membrane outside the basement?Ground force is problem everywhere in the world so double zone of rebar with 4"×4" checks(concrete min 6") would be way better,stronger and save basement floor from possible cracks...
Bruno Maric, if you are talking about the yellow sheeting (15 mil StegoWrap), it is a moisture barrier only. The exterior wall waterproofing and perimeter drain will keep the basement from flooding and reduce hydrostatic pressure. Thanks!
I am a carpenter with over 40 years construction experience in Ontario, Canada, and if I was building my own house this is the system I would use! Just think of the reduction of forming materials waste alone & the impact/or reduction of impact on forestry & the environment!
How many years will this last?
Let's say I was building a home in Naples, Fl and I wanted to make it hurricane-proof. How thick can ICF walls be made to? One foot thick? two? I can't seem to find info about that.
Frank Militello The walls in this basement are 8” thick solid reinforcements concrete, which is more than enough to hurricane proof your house.
It may be overkill but I'm just curious if you could buy ICF blocks that create walls that are more than 8 inches thick of reinforced concrete?
Glad to see they have legos for adults
How did you decide not to do waterproofing & moist barriers?
There is a waterproof membrane and drainage, it’s in the video
It seems like it takes too long. With Advance or Ready forms you could do that small structure in 2 days and strip in the morning of the third. Also it looks as though your plan is to tie into the existing structure and Advance forms and plywood would do during the initial pour. Maybe it's code where you are for commercial buildings.
Sorry mister. I just read your comments down below. Answered all of my questions. Should have looked first. Also I looked up this quaint little town in Northern California. So where is the project completion video?
14:14 RIP Benny Hill
99.3% of people reading your comment probably think Benny Hill was some kind of icf/basement system pioneer! LOL! Anyway, as an adolescent, I used to love watching Benny Hill - he was awesome...and the ‘extras’...
What are these 3-4 wooden gaps for? on top of the walls. 14:35
wonderful work guys!
Buster Where is the rough in plumbing,windows ? How about footing and curtain drains.What is the structure a bomb shelter?
steve dennis no plumbing in the basement, there is a sump well in the middle of the slab that two perimeter footing drains drain into. No windows as there will be additional foundation/crawlspace on the front, right, and left sides. Far side will have a deck extending off of the first floor. It is mostly a basement for mechanical; well pressure tanks, hot water, and a future wine cellar. The building will be a hotel, restaurant and bar.
Where are you located? I am a structural engineer in Colorado used to heavy snow and wind loads plus we have expansive clay through silt only soils. I would love to hear what your design criteria is. You have a wide footer, much wider to the inside of the wall, with lots of vertical rebar. You then add a heavily reinforced single layer of lots of reinforcement in the slab. I understand the pit in the floor but I am puzzled by wasting a yard of so to fill a hole that could be filled by dirt. ICF are a good choice if you are heating and finishing the basement. If you are not going to finish it, most building departments want it covered for fire protection anyway. I am puzzled also by no windows? One good trick is if your are finishing windows later, Install the bucks with treated wood plugs. At a later date you can add egress windows for usable space.
Geoff Robinson this location is in the very northeastern corner of California 6 miles from Nevada and 40 miles south of Oregon. Because of the heavy geothermal activity here we are in seismic zone D, wind loads are 110 mph (we get hellacious winds here in the winter up to the max 110). Snow loads are 40 psf for a flat roof. The designed footing was 3'-8" wide, but the site is on an ancient river bed and the excavations got wider because river rock kept falling in on both sides. The vertical bars are the hooks for the walls, the near end was spaced at 8" because we exceeded the design max depth from grade of 6' by a foot. All others were at 16". The slab steel is #4's at 16" centers (my company is Los Angeles based as is the engineer, #4 bars are standard in slabs there, not sure what it is elsewhere). The choice of ICF's was partly for Insulation, and partly because the site is so remote there is an extreme lack of sub contractors; no masonry contractors within 150 miles, so I was able to build it myself with the ICF's. The walls will be finished with 5/8 type X drywall to meet fire codes. I will be building all the other stem walls with ICFs also to add to the overall energy efficiency of the building. No windows are required as the basement is not a living space, and the top of the basement walls are only 32" above grade.
I did not answer your question regarding the hole...that is a low pad for a 6x6 post supporting an 8 x 12 flush beam above that supports the floor joists over the basement. There is a CB66 there that is hard to see.
^^They would be nice for a little extra natural lighting.
SmoothRide you would need one for egress purposes if a bedroom was ever added to the basement. It would also require an egress window well.
What if the basement wasn´t square or rectangular? How would you do circles or free shapes? I would very much like a circular house
You can get pre made arcs and stuff