The twin rail tamper runs on top of shutters or steel road forms. Normally used when you are concreting in bays. You pour the concrete tie a piece of rope on each end turn on pull along. Polished concrete is an art. I have been working in civils ground works for over 40 years and have poured many 1000 cubes of concrete, I wouldn't be able to do a Polished slab.. Good luck
That makes more sense, definitely not like the vibrating screed bar is tried before! The contractors will be doing slab with boom pump, ride on power floats, etc basically like a factory floor. Polishing will come much later once cured.
Hi Tim, if you're worried about the slight rocking in some of the PIR boards, a technique I used at home was to just put a diagonal cut in the board with a handsaw once it's laid - a bit like you would do in a paving slab in a pavement where there were undulations. No need to tape the joints or cuts. Also make sure your poured layer has expansion joints in at the appropriate spacings. Great content as always, thanks.
Turned out most of the rocking was actually the boards slightly cupped so flipping those helped keep joins good. Concrete cuts will go in the day after pour. 👍
There was a time a few years back when I watched your channel and thought “ah yeah, thanks guys, I could give that a go” and then you went and took things to a whole new level 😂😂😂
absolutely love seeing the progress. and very much appreciate how you explain the thinking behind everything you are doing. this will be an amazing accomplishment!
You need screed rails for that vibrating screed. Usually 40/50mm steel tubes or scaff tubes. Tied down to the rebar with packers between to get your desired finish height.
Superb work Tim. I love how so many of these projects are supersized versions of your others. We are converting our 6x4m garage and noticed the floor is out by an inch. Would you recommend levelling with concrete and some self-levelling or simply use the sand approach? It will be a floating chipboard floor.
If its just a corner I have done self levelling but it can soon add up if it's all out a bit. Kiln dried sand to bring up a low spot with the DPM over works well providing you don't disturb it too much.
@@TheRestorationCouple thanks Tim. I'll assess the amount see which is best, everything is becoming far more expensive. Couldn't believe the quotes we had for French doors and that was supply only 😂 keep up the great work, best of luck with all your projects!
Hi do you have to do an up stand around the perimeter with the insulation board ? Are you putting in underfloor heating ? If so do you have to membrane again over ? And what type of screed ? Only asking because I’m at the same stage 😬👍🏻👍🏻
Love to see all the progress every week! it's looking great. Do you have building regs/control coming out at each stage? Jut wondering what your experience is with them?
Could you attach OSB or PLY boards to the bottom of the Wacker plate with 3/4 metre extension bars to spread rhe load so it doesn't sink into the sand? this weather is really not helping lately, great progress btw 👍
For a house of that size think well on how u distribute hot water around ur house. Our house is pretty large and we have a big run of hot water pipe from the storeage tank to the lower bath rooms. Takes ages for wam water to reach the taps. And the big surprise if u go back to the taps 1/2 hr later water is cold again. 3/4 inch copper pipe with std copper pipe insulation laid in the floor insulation. If I was doing it again maybe plastic pipe with as much insulation as possible. Good luck
Do have a project schedule and a mega spreadsheet to plan /track costs or are you keeping it mostly in your head? Would be quite an interesting video to see how you're planning everything, managing suppliers etc
@@TheRestorationCouple thanks for taking the time for that, i ask because I’m currently doing my self build at 4200 sq ft just outside Oxford and always good to reassure what I’m doing.
@@geoffclark2411 The jump from the original 100 to 150 was actually advised against as the gain is so minor compared to improving other parts of the buildings fabric. In the end we decided to go with 150 anyway as its the one thing we can never improve in. the future.
I’ve always said to clients put as much insulation in as possible, retro fitting can be difficult and once it’s in its doing is job saving you money from the day you move in. Have just been working on a new build warm roof we’ve put 210mm of rigid foam insulation in, under the standing seam roof finish
@@TheRestorationCouple I couldn’t agree with you more we are doing exactly the same as yourselves, for the extra investment now will pay in the future. Not sure how far you are with getting the floors concreted but we have used a company that were fantastic and blew the other competitors prices to bits they also offer grinding and polishing on the aggregates which they completed in the garden apartment we are also building and it worked out cheaper then floor coverings. They have all there own pumps and kit very professional crew. Let me know it you would like there details.
Great swap but just watch the cost of Kia parts , frightening! A lot after their parts are copyrighted and not available as no oem . Good luck though … great series, much enjoyed..
As someone who`s in the trade - after watching your last attempt to pour a slab - Get a professional crew in - concreting is a skilled job not for DIY`ers - FYI the motorised tamp runs on screed rails or shuttering - great sub floor prep, you don`t need to tape the PIR - I presume you`ve got reinforcing mesh going in your top slab?
Fear not, we eventually found a decent contractor to do the slab. Would never have taken on the whole thing as needs to be done in one hit really so more of a commercial job than residential. 👍
In my experience most so-called professionals are lazy and cut corners. Many experienced so called DIYers do much more competent work because they care more.
@@tomp5207 completely agree. Many a time I've had to recall 'pro's' to correct things. As a DIYer, nothing I have done has ever failed. People get greedy when time is money.
We have contractors for the floor. Would have only done the patio ourselves as that is being tiled. The main slab is definitely beyond DIY to do in one pour!
Tim, ain’t being funny but why don’t you reply to these comments ?, as I write there’s only 12 comments, most asking questions. Cmon mate, you often ask for our opinion, but rarely answer the comments
Give him a chance mate, keeping up with comments is a huge job, after hard days working, filming, editing and trying to have a life as well. Plus the video's only been up less than an hour! He's pretty good at answering Q's on the whole, some RUclipsrs gave up long ago.
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The twin rail tamper runs on top of shutters or steel road forms. Normally used when you are concreting in bays. You pour the concrete tie a piece of rope on each end turn on pull along. Polished concrete is an art. I have been working in civils ground works for over 40 years and have poured many 1000 cubes of concrete, I wouldn't be able to do a Polished slab.. Good luck
That makes more sense, definitely not like the vibrating screed bar is tried before! The contractors will be doing slab with boom pump, ride on power floats, etc basically like a factory floor. Polishing will come much later once cured.
Hi Tim, if you're worried about the slight rocking in some of the PIR boards, a technique I used at home was to just put a diagonal cut in the board with a handsaw once it's laid - a bit like you would do in a paving slab in a pavement where there were undulations. No need to tape the joints or cuts. Also make sure your poured layer has expansion joints in at the appropriate spacings. Great content as always, thanks.
Turned out most of the rocking was actually the boards slightly cupped so flipping those helped keep joins good. Concrete cuts will go in the day after pour. 👍
There was a time a few years back when I watched your channel and thought “ah yeah, thanks guys, I could give that a go” and then you went and took things to a whole new level 😂😂😂
Just a big garage conversion really! 😂
@@TheRestorationCouplewhatever stops you freaking out on the daily 😂. Keep up the great work. I always look forward to the next video!
Another fascinating video. I'm very envious, though obviously it's a lot of hard work. Keep plugging away - the progress is amazing.
Really coming together Tim, will be a whole new ballgame once slab is poured. Cheers 😊
absolutely love seeing the progress. and very much appreciate how you explain the thinking behind everything you are doing. this will be an amazing accomplishment!
You need screed rails for that vibrating screed. Usually 40/50mm steel tubes or scaff tubes. Tied down to the rebar with packers between to get your desired finish height.
Great video+explanation+presentation! Thank you for sharing! Well done mate - NEW SUB 🙏🏻
Thanks and welcome
I always hit 👍 up soon as video starts....😊 loving the build Tim 👌
Awesome! Thank you!
Superb work Tim. I love how so many of these projects are supersized versions of your others. We are converting our 6x4m garage and noticed the floor is out by an inch. Would you recommend levelling with concrete and some self-levelling or simply use the sand approach? It will be a floating chipboard floor.
If its just a corner I have done self levelling but it can soon add up if it's all out a bit. Kiln dried sand to bring up a low spot with the DPM over works well providing you don't disturb it too much.
@@TheRestorationCouple thanks Tim. I'll assess the amount see which is best, everything is becoming far more expensive. Couldn't believe the quotes we had for French doors and that was supply only 😂 keep up the great work, best of luck with all your projects!
Hi do you have to do an up stand around the perimeter with the insulation board ?
Are you putting in underfloor heating ?
If so do you have to membrane again over ?
And what type of screed ?
Only asking because I’m at the same stage 😬👍🏻👍🏻
Some form of skid plate on the compactor rail may help to spread the compaction force and make it easier to "float " across the sand.
Love to see all the progress every week! it's looking great. Do you have building regs/control coming out at each stage? Jut wondering what your experience is with them?
Yeah they are here every few weeks. Been great tbh, nice to get each stage checked and reassurance it’s all going to plan. 👍
The future drainage project out the front will be an epic watch.....i can see a moat being built 😂
Could you attach OSB or PLY boards to the bottom of the Wacker plate with 3/4 metre extension bars to spread rhe load so it doesn't sink into the sand? this weather is really not helping lately, great progress btw 👍
Your supposed to have some formwork on either side gor the ends of the vibration screener. You pull it along on those. Then it doesn't sink in
Yeah soon discovered that when I asked. 😀 Fortunately not needed as the concrete guys will have their own gear.
Thats a big, humongous insulated floor 😅 Great to see progress, plow on
Recommend three pipes to island: hot (maybe softened), fresh and softened.
For a house of that size think well on how u distribute hot water around ur house. Our house is pretty large and we have a big run of hot water pipe from the storeage tank to the lower bath rooms. Takes ages for wam water to reach the taps. And the big surprise if u go back to the taps 1/2 hr later water is cold again. 3/4 inch copper pipe with std copper pipe insulation laid in the floor insulation. If I was doing it again maybe plastic pipe with as much insulation as possible. Good luck
Where are you going to put the sauna? You have not forgotten it, have you?
Hi guys 1st 😊🏴 at this rate you'll be in at Christmas !!!
The closing shot - is that just flooded field or is that your stream in full flood?
The fields each side of the brook. Doesn’t hang around more than a day but that is 2-3m above regular water level.
Fix some wooden sheet to bottom of that big Wacker!!
Do have a project schedule and a mega spreadsheet to plan /track costs or are you keeping it mostly in your head?
Would be quite an interesting video to see how you're planning everything, managing suppliers etc
Would love a video on this, definitely a weak area of mine and would love to see a thorough example to give me more of a steer with this aspect.
concrete is soooo last century
Cool 😎
What depth insulation are u using on the floor..
150
@@TheRestorationCouple thanks for taking the time for that, i ask because I’m currently doing my self build at 4200 sq ft just outside Oxford and always good to reassure what I’m doing.
@@geoffclark2411 The jump from the original 100 to 150 was actually advised against as the gain is so minor compared to improving other parts of the buildings fabric. In the end we decided to go with 150 anyway as its the one thing we can never improve in. the future.
I’ve always said to clients put as much insulation in as possible, retro fitting can be difficult and once it’s in its doing is job saving you money from the day you move in. Have just been working on a new build warm roof we’ve put 210mm of rigid foam insulation in, under the standing seam roof finish
@@TheRestorationCouple I couldn’t agree with you more we are doing exactly the same as yourselves, for the extra investment now will pay in the future. Not sure how far you are with getting the floors concreted but we have used a company that were fantastic and blew the other competitors prices to bits they also offer grinding and polishing on the aggregates which they completed in the garden apartment we are also building and it worked out cheaper then floor coverings. They have all there own pumps and kit very professional crew.
Let me know it you would like there details.
👍👊
Great swap but just watch the cost of Kia parts , frightening! A lot after their parts are copyrighted and not available as no oem . Good luck though … great series, much enjoyed..
what is the baby’s name
As someone who`s in the trade - after watching your last attempt to pour a slab - Get a professional crew in - concreting is a skilled job not for DIY`ers - FYI the motorised tamp runs on screed rails or shuttering - great sub floor prep, you don`t need to tape the PIR - I presume you`ve got reinforcing mesh going in your top slab?
Fear not, we eventually found a decent contractor to do the slab. Would never have taken on the whole thing as needs to be done in one hit really so more of a commercial job than residential. 👍
Gosh ……..is that the size of the pool …….! it’s tiny I thought it was goin* to be an Olympic size ! 😢😢😢😢
In my experience most so-called professionals are lazy and cut corners. Many experienced so called DIYers do much more competent work because they care more.
@@tomp5207 completely agree. Many a time I've had to recall 'pro's' to correct things. As a DIYer, nothing I have done has ever failed. People get greedy when time is money.
For the love of God please tell me you aren't pouring the slab yourself after seeing your other concreting attempts....🤔🤣🤣
Was thinking the same ngl
😂not the main one no. I’ll just do the filming that day!
Do not try to pour and polsh the floor get a company in that knows what they are doing
We have contractors for the floor. Would have only done the patio ourselves as that is being tiled. The main slab is definitely beyond DIY to do in one pour!
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Tim, ain’t being funny but why don’t you reply to these comments ?, as I write there’s only 12 comments, most asking questions. Cmon mate, you often ask for our opinion, but rarely answer the comments
Because I was putting the children to bed. 👍
Give him a chance mate, keeping up with comments is a huge job, after hard days working, filming, editing and trying to have a life as well. Plus the video's only been up less than an hour! He's pretty good at answering Q's on the whole, some RUclipsrs gave up long ago.
Sorry Tim, you must be v busy. I apologise….you did reply mind. Always enjoy your vids
No problem. It’s either bedtime or chasing sheep round a field when videos tend to go live. 😂
He shouldn't have replied to your comment G