Constant Supply Of Dry Filament - Dehydraspool 3D Printing Project
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Tired of having to constantly dry your filament, having to wait hours on end until it is dry before you can print... only to have humidity ruin everything after a couple of hours? :)
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Love the "Dry on the Fly" device! Plus you can lay strips of beef around the edges of the trays and have a nice jerky snack after the print finishes!
lol
As someone who prints with nylon and polycarbonate, and who also lives about one mile from the Atlantic Ocean, I approve of this project. I like your idea to add extra free space around the last wrap to get it even dryer. Cheers!
Awesome Idea Joe. The tension from the rollers will also help with any backlash from "aggressive" retractions especially on deltas that print very quickly. My only small suggestion would be to add external clips to hold the loose filament ends not loaded into any printers.
Very good point, will add those as well :)
Great video as always. Best thing I got was a digital temperature / humidity sensor from eBay. Has a sensor on a cable so can be placed inside any container you are using to dry the filament and can be safely seen from outside. Keep notes on temp and humidity and you will have a reference for keeping your filament in best condition.
This is a great idea! One additional tweak might be to design a bracket for the tube pass-thru so the filament can enter the tube at a more straight angle instead of having to bend at nearly 90° before leaving the dehydrator. This might reduce frictional drag somewhat.
Very cool idea! I need to do this. I'm having problems with TPU and long lasting prints it starts very good but moistures very quickly. Some people cuts cardboard or something between bottom and filament so the air spreads more even.
Excellent man. I'm getting a dehydrator (de.... humidifier... :) ) In a few weeks. I'll definitely be rewatching this then. Thanks for sharing!
Just got done making this with the same dryer you have in the link turned out quite nice thanks for the idea
Love it! Simple, yet effective those are the best. I’d happily buy those parts for a dollar or so just to support this kind of stuff but amazing you want to just share them anyway.
Duude! Great idea! Should even increase the efficiency with really long prints! And this way you dry the filament only once and not over and over again. I would have never thought of that idea with the guide pulleys. The only downside is 200 Watts more per hour. But printing in an enclosure and on a cold bed mitigate that a bit. Really cool video!
quick tip for us builders and tinkerers: if you go with this setup make sure that you place the filament roll with the sticker side up. I tend to use Hatchbox filament for general prints. One side of the filament spool has a sticker on it with general information such as tolerance and temperature range etc. If you put the side with the sticker down then it may start to peel off and create extra friction with the spool holder. I suspect the heat may have loosened some of the adhesive which made it catch. I almost abandoned this setup as I was afraid the extra friction would over stress the extruder motor. Flipped the filament over and found this by accident. Way less friction now. Very happy to start using this method.
Super video. Well thought out, clearly explained and nice design, much thanks!
I think you read my thoughts ... I just ordered a food dehydrator similar to this one, it arrives soon. Thank you dude! ;)
Great minds ;)
Nice and clever solution. Good job!
What's the dehydrator power consumption?
Just a little suggestion: while 3D modeling keep your sketches simpler, divide your construction tree into lots of simpler operations. It drastically simplify the model and the editing process if you need to change something later. Rename sketches/operations for best results, expecially if you want to edit something when you'll have forgotted everything about your model :P … It's tedious if you're not used to, but I swear it save lives in the long run :D
Oh I’m so far behind in fusion360 hehe. I was just happy I remembered to design all part as separate components and had “most” of the parts dimensionally constraint hehe
Also, have to check about the consumption as I have no idea
Ahah :D I'm also quite behind with Fusion360, but I'm a product designer and I've lot of experience in 3D modeling with other CAD softwares. It's more a way of thinking, once you have it, different softwares need just some practice as new tools. At the beginning, as long as you manage to 3D model what you have in mind (with the least amount of compromises) it's all good :D ... You can generally get the same result following many different paths, some smarter than others. It just takes hours and hours of practice to know (most of the times) what's best when you start modeling, but you're definitely on the right track! Keep up the great work, it's always a pleasure to watch your vids. Greetings from Italy! Ciao! @@3DMakerNoob
I love this! An added bonus is to have a special layer for your snacks. Nothing like having your dried figs, dried apricots, and beef jerky within easy reach of your printer. :)
I'm sure this would come in handy for anyone who prints where I am. Our humidity is the blurst!
Just came across your channel! Love to see there are other Maltese Makers :D
Always happy to see more maltese people dropping by :)
Building one similar . Do check the humidity in the chamber? And if so what % do you fill prints the best for nylon. Thanks for the video.
I love the idea 👍 to reduce friction why not use bearings ?
I just subscribed 👍
Using bearings means there's not enough friction and the spools will spin loosely. Loosely spinning spools = tangles, which are bad
Been thinking of doing this myself for a while. A dehydrator with the trays cut out works fine for clearing up stale PLA, PET and ABS, but there's about three months a year when I can get Nylon and PC prints that don't make me kinda wish I was holding a hammer instead of sandpaper.
It’s not my design, but I haven’t seen anybody else mention it before. I just got this set up, initially for a Prusa MMU 1 (until I get the MMU 2), and it works amazingly. I have seen a lot of these smaller round food dehydrators being used, but you should really check out this design.
pinshape.com/items/38565-3d-printed-diy-filament-dryer
Oh that looks much better than mine lol
3DMN for €80 and then the files it is a bit more expensive (or you could design it yourself), but I liked the clean look and mod abilities of this one. Plus it is basically just as expensive as my Polybox to put it into perspective hahaha
Hehe true, in my case the thing cost like 35 - 40 dollars. As long as it does the job :)
Thanks for sharing this design. I think I prefer having the spools mounted vertically. I like how they have printed height extenders that double as a spool holder to stack with the existing translucent trays, smart! I'll be designing my own one of these with whatever rectangular model I can find locally.
I made a much less professional looking device for printing nylon. It's the best thing anyone could do for themselves.
are you still using this on your prints? or are there other diy projects better than this concept. thank you
Why not just use a 5 gal home depot bucket?
First off awesome idea. I’ve been trying to do some thin wall PETG prints for RC aircraft and having issues with “wet” PETG even fresh out of the bag so I’ve got a dehydrator on order due tomorrow and am printing your parts now. One weird thing my I3 Mk3 wanted to do a color/filament change about two thirds of the way up the bottom cylinder (I’m printing both the top and bottom together.), no harm I just unloaded and reloaded the same blue PETG I was using and everything was fine. Also have you considered using six or more rollers instead of just four? Since you’ve basically inscribed a square inside th circle that creates four right angles for the filament to go around. Six rollers would reduce it to sixty degrees at each roller and that should make a huge difference in tension on the extruder. Eight would make it forty-five degrees but at some point friction will make it a losing proposition to add more rollers. Just a thought.
Fun project. The wife would kill me if I did this to her dehydrator.
Easier to ask for forgiveness than to ask for permission ;)
heheh it very simple my friend buy another one.... their will be no forgiveness
Maybe include a small gift for her, just for attention diversion ;)
If you have any ALDI stores they have something similar for about 20 bucks. Well worth it.
Randall Bourque Aldi in Australia? Coz I wanna try this... petg and oz summer don’t mix
Great video and perfect timing, as I have been looking into building my own filament dryer using food dehumidifier I mean dehydrator 😃. You mentioned in the video that you can go up to 70°C. Do you mind double checking that with the thermometer? The actual temperature of mine only goes up to 40°C even when I set it to 70°C.
Excellent hack of a dehydrator. Can you tell me if it (the dehydrator) cycles on and off as needed for changes in humidity (for storage purposes) or is it just filled with spools and turned on for printing. (Not a storage solution). Thanks for the share.
Just a though but if you can dry a loop or two of filament in that short of time you could probably just rig a tube (thinking about the size of a vacuum attachment hose) to a fan and a small heat element of hair dryer and just run the filament through that between the spool holder and the printer. This has given me a lot of ideas. ;)
Good job man
since the dehydrator isn't in an air tight enclosure, wouldn't humidity creep in after you power off the dehydrator? as such, wouldn't it be better to dry the rolls then transfer them to a sealed dry box and modify the dry box so that you can print the rolls directly from there?
otherwise you have to always keep the dehydrator running while doing a print, causing an increase in electricity power consumption and more $$ spent.
Great video! Have you uploaded the STL's of your spool holders? Would love to replicate this!
7:00 - Titile of your next 3d printing book: "A Bridge Too Far" lol I printed the spool guides anyway; mostly just because I like your design.
this is pretty cool going to try it out
Awesome :)
Have you tried, putting air channels in the base (under and in between the spools)? To allow air flow to the center column.
There is a bottom tray to separate everything from the heat outlet with enough room so it should be fine, I think it’s just the way the air is circulated
Thanks for this Joe, I’m going to set one of these up myself as I also live in a very humid climate. Out of curiosity, how long would you estimate the filament lasts in open air after being removed from the dehydrator, before it becomes hydrated and soft again?
Brilliant !!!!
is the PTFE Coupler glued from the outside of the Dehydrator? or did you make a hole large enough to pass the whole body of the PTFE Coupler?
Thanks for a great project, I have a non used drier I know what to do with now.
Great job man i was thinking to design similar idea using some bearings, after your video I'll just use your files
I live in central Fl and its the rainy season. Humidity of 90% on the daily is normal. My laboratory in my garage is an insulated room with climate control (professionally connected to my HVAC), ionized hepa air filtration, and a dehumidifier running. So far I have’t had any humidity issues, but I picked up a food dehydrator from Goodwill for like $8 that has temp control and a timer just in case. My dehumidifier does collect about 10oz of water a day. I have a lot of electronics in the room and other moisture sensitive items. I’m thinking of building a more powerful dehumidifier based on the design of the one I purchased.
I set for 3 hours at 50C my brittle PLA samples... but almost nothing changed - still brittle and cracking?!
What was wrong? - Not enough temp or hours? - Does ambient temperature affect it? - Is temperature distribution uneven on racks?
Hello. How do I add a ptfe coupler while still keeping it airtight enough? I am only just getting into 3d printing and I feel like you went past that part really quickly, or does it not need to be airtight?
I've wondered about these food dryers, with the way they're designed they're just constantly taking in cold air, and heating it then pushing it up into the food and that air is just leaving out the sides of the plastic. Since it contains moisture you want that moist air gone. But as far as efficiency thats a lot of energy wasted and heat kicked out into the room.
I'm thinking about making a system like this that you made, only also seal most of the unit so its air tight while in use, and have a single outlet for the air at the top that feeds back down to the intake that i assume is on the bottom of the machine, and have a vat of dessicant where the air passes through from the top baci to the bottom. That can be swapped out as the dessicant becomes full.
Then maybe also insulate the whole setup in one big well insulated foam box so theres even less heat loss out the plastic sides of the machine.
As long as its built to stop trying to heat the air if its already hot enough it shouldnt cause thermal runaway.
Guess I'll have to see what i can come up with. Since i dont want to also be running a second machine thats constantly using energy and kicking out heat for hours every time i want to print with a moisture sensitive filament and get good results. I think making a setup for drying like that would save a lot of electricity.
This sounds like a great idea and looks like a good system, but there is one problem. I purchased the dehydrator on your link, spent 17 hours printing the bottom of your system and the darn thing does not even come close to fitting on the dehydrator!
The center ring is far too small and even is I spend time grind it off, the center ring is not tall enough to clear the center fan hood fo the dehydrator. A total waste of time, filament and money buying the dehydrator you kink to.
What gives, you made a small commission on the sale, I spend lots of time and filament and nothing fits
The link to the dehydrator seems to have changed. Is the Rosewill machine the current dehydrator? It looks like a different machine.
Very cool!
Thank you :)
You had me rofl at ruclips.net/video/p1AQQ41gFDU/видео.html that look on your face :) Oh yeah I ordered one of these machines on amazon and going to make the same. Thanks!
Waiting for that P3STEEL (in the background) update video :)
just got a food dehydrater for my filiment what temps wood be beat to set at for carbon fiber pla dehydrator has a range of 35 to 70c
with this your setup you should think to add a bearings on those prints it will move filament alot easier. And second, did you think about having a 30cm tube about 3cm diameter throu which filament goes to printer and inside of tube blow a hot air to dry filament?? I think that will be more efficient.
There are no corners in a circle... but..... lol love this idea!
GREAT video. “music”, not so much.
Nice design. But your thing I wear link is busted
I wonder how we can get 5 full 1kg rolls in this thing, for the prusa MMU2 if it ever arrives!
At ALDI tomorrow in Australia: www.aldi.com.au/en/special-buys/special-buys-wed-19-december/wednesday-detail-wk51/ps/p/food-dehydrator-5/
Impressive project😀👍
Thanks for sharing👍😀
Salut , ton déshydrateur tu ne l'utilise pas a chaque fois que tu imprime ??
Hi, your dehydrator you don't use it every time you print ??
What are your petg settings for cr10s pro?
very nice thanks for that , which filament needs dryer ? nylon and what else ? and at what degree on the dehydrator you put it on ?
You mentioned that when you dry a spool, it starts printing great but then degrades. Do you think it may also be that with a full spool loaded, the dryer isn't actually drying out the inner part of the spool, rather than the spool soaking up moisture while you're printing? Perhaps this is what you meant all along and I misunderstood.
Joe. A very interesting solution. Having just installed a Micro Swiss hot end and direct drive I looking for drying/printing solutions for higher tech filaments. This looks like a very cost effective starting point. I see that you published this over 18 months ago, are there any things you would do differently now?
Regards David
my input: If you were to use bearings, packing them with grease would be a surefire way to stop them rolling without being pulled by the extruder unit. It would also allow the spools to roll freely when the extruder pulls them.
Buy a plastic container add "Reptile Heater" from aliexpress for 7 dollar. and keep your boxes @ 32 degree :)
🎶🎶🎶 I'm gonna dry my filament 🎶 On- Ny-looon, 🎶 I'm gonna print my parts 🎶 On Nylon🎶
Lmao
Do you know if any shop in malta is selling, silica gel desiccant in 500g-1kg quantities?
ill try both the constant supply of dry filament and a dry box, as apparently leaving the filament even for 1 day in the open air while printing in malta is enough to ruin the filament.
No idea as I buy mine online, maybe check JB Stores
Very good! Interesting you're printing nylon with no enclosure - being in Malta has its benefits :)
How does it hold up, now that you're almost 2 years in?
The resistance from the outer guides is likely due to a sharp bend radius of the pullies. If you increase the pulley diameter, the resistance should go down quite a bit.
Warm filament is more difficult to stick to the plate. They get peeled away by the nozzle. Anyone experienced similar effect?
Nice. I find if printer contained in a cabinet the humidity in cabinet drops down under 20% after a couple of hours. I also has made a filament dryer from a food dryer. Works good but slow. Thanks.
If you use bearings for the rollers you could loop the filament more than once. Not sure it's worth it? I also recharge my desiccant in my dehydrator. The best thing about this idea is it uses the factory spacers. Printing spacers has been a challenge for me with PETG. And it's a waste of a lot of filament. What we really need is a cheap desiccant equipped storage spool that stacks on the dehydrator for printing. When you open a spool it immediately goes in the holder ready for pulling off the shelf and printing. Then you reuse the holder. The heat keeps the desiccant dry during use. Hmm, product idea.. I'm going to be rich beyond my wildest dreams. ;-)
Dang, that nylon print is SMOOTH!👌
Good job on the filament dryer, nice to see it working.
Has the dryer made any difference to your bed adhesion?
Would be great to know the settings you use and also the bed material?
Thanks
Hi Joe, Great project! I live on the US on the east coast where the summers can be really humid. I am just starting out with printing TPE and found it was a bit damp after forgetting to close the bag tightly. Will your mod work for the dehydrator from Amazon US Link you provide as well ?
Keep up the good work. Watching you , Angus , Chuck and Joel convinced me to get into 3D printing and I am hooked. Just bought my second printer an Ender 3.
Hello, did u cut some of the plastic dispensors that came with the dehydratoir?
At 9:02 it shows the tray with a large inner diameter. Did you have to trim the trays?
Ecological Consideration: We cool the Nema 17 with water cooling and give the heat in front of the fan at the bottom of the dehydrator...
Just started running into this problem this summer. I put a dehumidifier in my back room where the printer is, and am also considering getting some sort of dehydrator to dry my filament as well. this is a great solution and you are sooop good at finding solutions to common problems! his one looks amazing! Thanks!
Excellent work my dude! You don't disappoint, this is a cool project and I'll see about making my own. It's annoying to store TPU etc, this will help out a bunch.
Fantastic joeas that's the exact dehydrater i have,actually got it from one of your links previous.
I'm going to give this a go as soon as i can . merry Christmas and a happy new year to you and your family dude
Is it noisy? My old roommate used a food dehydrator but that thing was like a jet engine..
@@marnixw8724 it's not overly loud but I wouldn't put it in a room you sleep in. Mines in the living room next to my printer and I can watch TV fine without hearing it
Why don't you design/print an angled exit flange out of the dryer? That should sort out the resistance issue.
What temperature / Time setting for PLA? Please.....
With what kind of fillaments do you have humidity problems? I just started printing PETG and not sure if I'm gonna need the drier or not. PLA was loaded for months into my printer without any noticible difference in printing quality. I'm in the Netherlands, I guess the humidity here is something like 80% outdoors during winter, and the printer is in the appartment.
"I'm in the Netherlands, I guess the humidity here is something like 80% outdoors during winter, and the printer is in the appartment(sic)." In the winter I'm assuming it is colder outside than inside. (I could be wrong, some people really like it cold...) ;-) If my assumption is correct your humidity is much lower in your apartment. We are talking about relative humidity, and what the measurement is relative to is the holding capacity of the air. Colder air can hold less water vapor than warm air. So with the same number of molecules of water vapor, the relative humidity is a higher percentage with cold air than warm air. For example, if it is 5°C outside at 80%, then by the time that same air heats up to 25°C the relative humidity will be about 23%. I would expect the air in an apartment to be slightly higher simply because there are things that add to the humidity inside an apartment (running water in sinks and showers, standing water in toilets, humans breathing out moisture from their metabolism, any plants, etc.). But all those humidity inputs are probably fairly small, so I would expect (gut feeling here) the actual humidity in the apartment to be 25-30% in this situation.
TL;DR, don't use the outside humidity to know what your inside humidity is. Get an indoor hygrometer. ;-)
Hey Joe,
I am wondering for this setup, will you have to continuously reset the heating timer or does it allow endless heating? Because it would be an issue for long prints to keep resetting the timer
I would recommend for the loops using some Capricorn tube in place of the rollers. This is done to ensure the filament does not get deformed by grinding against 4 plastic rollers
I am very interested in keeping filament dry. Like Malta, I live in a high humidity area, Fort Lauderdale, Florida, USA. It is hard to find a location with higher humidity than here. I have developed several ideas for keeping my filament dry. But, I have a question. How dry is dry? Like me, you are a innovative thinker. You must have used a device for checking your humidity. What percentage of humidity is acceptable to you?
I am also in flordia, I’m by Miami, could you please inform me if ya found out anything good?
@@priv10 Hi, I have made a few different filament storage boxes. They each can feed the filament into my MK3s/MMU2s and store the fil. in 22% +/- humidity levels. I do this by using multiple dessicant packs which are rechargeable. Are you listed in Prusaprinters User groups? If so, what is your name (or ID) there. I think I am P Herz there as well
@@pherz3775 I am not listen in the prusaprinters user groups.
Love this idea! Brilliant 👏🏼 (summer in Australia.. my petg soaks up moisture like a sponge)
Hello! I had a question you have two different dehydrators listed will the rosewill one for the US you have listed work for this with your printed parts? thanks for your time
It might not fit perfectly but I included the fusion360 files in order to be able to adjust them to fit
Cool idea. I like that you can dry & run two spools at once.
What profile settings would you recommend on cura or ideamaker for the alfawise U20? I've been trying to find out more information about slicer settings for the printer but haven't found much info (can't really check the Facebook group because I don't have one, gonna have to make one soon tho for the firmware updates)
Will be doing a whole series on fine tuning the profiles for it :)
Hello, I enjoyed this video as I do many of yours that I have watched. I have a CR10s that has been working great for me since day one with none of the gremlins that many people spoke of. Recently I did start to have an issue with the heat bed connector and am looking to replace it. I wanted to ask you if you think it is better for me to look towards an AC silicon heat mat to replace the factory heat bed system all together along with a different style hot end. I ask because Iwould like to start printing with ABS and possibly Nylon. Thank you
A decent AC heather along with a good SSR can only benefit you. And I’d highly recommend an all metal hotend like the V6 Volcano
Is this still in daily use?
oh yes :)
I made one, which is great for petg in a hot humid climate. Can you feed from this into the Bambu Lab AMS?
I live at 9k feet. We don’t have any humidity
I did exactly this (with the exception of the metre of single filament drying bit) about 2 months ago for my printers running in a garage in our usually very damp British autumns & winters (and springs and summers). I had a roll of PET-G go 'off' in about 3 hours in these conditions so decided to build exactly what you've done! It worked AMAZINGLY well! BUT a word of warning... most dehydrators have a central turning mechanism and some alternate direction (mine does) so make sure you install the filament spools so the mechanism rotation doesn't unroll the filament - and beware to check the rotation direction on each switch on! Might not be a problem for yours but worth mentioning as it may be an issue for others (like mine).
Oh and it works fine for me without the need for the filament rollers
In Tennessee its so humid, even during winter, that printing exotic material means baking and everything requires a ziplock bag with desiccant. This project is a very tempting build for me. :)
If it works in Malta, should work anywhere in the world hehe
Will be interesting to see whether you will get heatcreep over time
How do you know that your de-humidifier is being effective in drying out the filament to a level that is correct for the job you want it to do?
You’ll know from the print result, I’ve done a video on TPU prints which shows the difference in a dry filament vs a “wet” one. Apart from the visual queues you will also hear tiny popping sounds while printing
@@3DMakerNoob I was thinking that to be most efficient a gauge of some type would be be much better than a trial and error method .
Say for example it was found that at 30-40% humidity for PLA was best for printing then a simple mini-hygrometer placed inside the de-humidifier would let you know when you have reached that point.
I find that placing a small bag or two of dessicant is at best useless and to make any useful lowering of humidity takes at least 20 or more small bags to bring the humidity down to 40% from a higher humidity range
There are also humidity strips that change colour if there is a change of moisture in the air which can be re-used.
It's not really a trial and error kind of thing. a spool usually takes about 10 hours to dry. In certain places like malta, humidity is rarely under 70%, so even if you dry it, you start printing and within 2 - 3 hours the filament needs cooking again, that's especially for nylon and PVA. while dessicants help keep the humidity low, it won't dry filament though, at least not as fast as a dehydrator or an oven can. Dessicants will keep it dry for longer once the filament is already dry. it all depends on what you intend to print. If it's a small 30 minute or 1 hour print job, you only need the outer layers of the spool to be dry, so you cook it for an hour or so.
don't take this wrong but if you are using the bottom spool dosen't the top one spin and unspool filament
you could ether try some-kind of brake on the spools or have them feed in opposite directions clockwise on top and counter clockwise on the bottom
In fact they both feed the opposite direction, so if the bottom spool is being used, then the top spool would literally be winding itself hence why the filament lines go into he opposite direction. Good observation :)
just ordered first printer,fear of tech has held me back, and now you say humidity is a problem,i live in Perth WestAus and we have a very similar humidity a you,
It’s only an issue with some filaments, like nylon and PVA. Don’t worry though, don’t let any of this scare you. Trust me, it will be worth the learning curve :)
👍🖖
Great video as usual,glad to see you are still using the alfawise u20