The mortar was too thin. It should be at least 0.25" thick, when tamped. It is a thick mix. It would hold well, if the blocks don't absorb the water from the mortar too quickly, preventing it from curing and achieving strength.
Thick mortar might solve the problem with keeping them together (in the first example, in the second one there's no chance to keep them together with mortar). And mortar is bad for insolation (the material has poor insolation properties and gaps may appear if you are not an expert). On top of 'stickiness', the foam has another 2 advantages - easy/fast to work with and cleanliness. All at a comparable price; the sellers might tell you it's even cheaper with foam, but in practice, for me it was a tiny bit more expensive with foam. Still, the price difference was very low, and in the end it was covered by the execution speed and cleanliness.
Клей не может набирать свою мощностю через 48 чесов. Им нужно минимум неделию чдо бы набрать 60 % мощности. А через 28 дней он может набрать мощностю 90%. Вам надо ждать месяц чтобы сравнение было корректно.
Can you show a video of how you made the grinder with the angle bar I can see you have used bolts th weld to but what it's the gap between the angle bar and the blade for the chamfer ?? Its looks roughly 20mm. Appreciate if you can let me no as I'm going to build a shed using this method then paint it black and use storm dry paste to seal it from the elements which can get bad in the north east of England 🇬🇧 😊
Убить полностью получается! Обоснован результат на все 100 процентов!! Нет слов только эмоционально ошарашен!!! Бог вам в помощь!! Продолжение следует?? Успехов в работе и во всём!!!
эти опыты ничего не дают, к сожалению, вот понять что с этой пеной будет лет через 10-15 вот это бы нужная информация была, а сравнивать с цементной смесью через 48 часов,, которая месяцами набирает прочность, ваааще не корректно
aircrete blocks are designed to be used with rebar YES REBAR - u need to use 2 pieces of at least 4 or 6mm rebar on the entire circumference of the building each 2-3 layers (or each layer with designed for it mesh reinforcement but rebar is better and few times cheaper) all small buildings MUST HAVE REBAR or some sort of other reinforcement (like concrete pillars on each corner + extra ones for long walls) or else it shouldn't be allowed to live in (there are some circumstances for really big houses that allow u to not use rebar etc) - why u ask ....because if anything hits longer wall and damage it , or concrete foundation will settle in the ground , wall can fail and entire ceiling without enough partition walls can fall down on your head
Does this include aircrete domes? I had always intended to use aircrete (or similar lightweight concrete) with rebar but I don't recall seeing any of the aircrete dome makers include rebar in their builds.
@@Norbingel they still use rebar structure but not all the time because most of the time you do it outside on both sides using mesh and fibercrete -high mpa concrete with fiber reinforcement , aircrete inside act mostly same like honeycomb/ foam in composites making it thicker = stiffer + aircrete have insulating properties But it this case in the video its mostly about that its build with blocks glued together with poliuretane foam ("adhesive") , if you pour it into the mold it is in one piece / glue itself together , where in this case when adhesive fail , blocks will start to separate
@@Norbingel small domes dont need much , its good to use some reinforcement but you pour it most of the time into molds (inflatable molds) so its literally single piece of aircrete Yet its recommended to "spray coat" (concrete spray gun or manually applied) it with fiber reinforced concrete with any sort of a reinforcing mesh mainly for your safety if dome will crack in multiple places (then that layer hold it like pure concrete wall not aerated) + i will go with thinner mesh outside / thicker mesh but thinner layer of concrete if you dont want it thick or to expensive PS We talking about lightweight aircrete You can also make it "heavy" aircrete Then its way stronger and in some use you dont need reinforcements (i will still use some rebar / mesh just to be safe for entire lifetime of the building.
used 3 kilograms of cement and gypsum and 3 liters of water for each block, and the rest was alpha olefin foam. The block is smooth and does not stop. Do you use other types of solids?
First of all --- u need to apply way thicker layer of mortar second of all --- u wish that after 20y it will still hold as strong as properly applied mortar , after 50y --- good luck (look at old fridges etc ...same stuff inside aerated to use as a insulation and it crumbles after 20+years PS - to people that have houses built with adhesive : check it after 15-20y if it still hold or need to be fix you can also apply reinforcing mesh on it and "plaster" with concrete to make it strong or order someone to make concrete pillars from inside to hold ceiling if u dont have them , but if u have pillars , no need to worry about anything then because pillars hold everything and rest is just to "fill holes" between pillars most of the time
Клей пена это по-сути полиуретановый клей- их нужно как то изолировать , от укружающей среды. Для внутренних работ хорошо быстро-чисто, а вот наружка вопрос конечно риторический. Тем более вы хотите просто покрасить его
Эксперимент провален. Склейте блоки цементным клеем и проверьте склейку на прочность через месяца 3-4. Вырезал проемы в своем доме, через год. Разделить блоки по шву нереально, блок ломается возле шва. А склееный на пену рвется по пене.
You completely missed the point. It's just an experiment, not building tutorial. building with foam, with these specific bricks requires some extra rebars (not always, depends how big is the wall/house/project) and in some specific areas and applications it may be cheaper, faster and better than using classical mortar. (with people holding old ideas, we would still build houses out of mud mixed with straws and water).
The mortar was too thin. It should be at least 0.25" thick, when tamped. It is a thick mix. It would hold well, if the blocks don't absorb the water from the mortar too quickly, preventing it from curing and achieving strength.
You wrong, thinner is better.
Yes I agree...
Thick mortar might solve the problem with keeping them together (in the first example, in the second one there's no chance to keep them together with mortar). And mortar is bad for insolation (the material has poor insolation properties and gaps may appear if you are not an expert).
On top of 'stickiness', the foam has another 2 advantages - easy/fast to work with and cleanliness. All at a comparable price; the sellers might tell you it's even cheaper with foam, but in practice, for me it was a tiny bit more expensive with foam. Still, the price difference was very low, and in the end it was covered by the execution speed and cleanliness.
Brilliant comparison. Thankyou
Клей не может набирать свою мощностю через 48 чесов. Им нужно минимум неделию чдо бы набрать 60 % мощности. А через 28 дней он может набрать мощностю 90%. Вам надо ждать месяц чтобы сравнение было корректно.
Wow, excellent strength of the adhesive... ❤
Can you show a video of how you made the grinder with the angle bar I can see you have used bolts th weld to but what it's the gap between the angle bar and the blade for the chamfer ?? Its looks roughly 20mm. Appreciate if you can let me no as I'm going to build a shed using this method then paint it black and use storm dry paste to seal it from the elements which can get bad in the north east of England 🇬🇧 😊
Убить полностью получается! Обоснован результат на все 100 процентов!! Нет слов только эмоционально ошарашен!!! Бог вам в помощь!! Продолжение следует?? Успехов в работе и во всём!!!
эти опыты ничего не дают, к сожалению, вот понять что с этой пеной будет лет через 10-15 вот это бы нужная информация была, а сравнивать с цементной смесью через 48 часов,, которая месяцами набирает прочность, ваааще не корректно
Wow! That is impressive! It looks like it would be "easy" to build with those blocks.
Nice presentation mate , brilliant
Would be greatful if you could enlighten as to how to prepare the blocks for beginners, step by step.
it would be great if this video enlightened anything
Geweldig! Het bewijst de kracht van de lijmfoam. Leuk experiment😃! Het is overigens de vraag of het lukt met aan beide kanten een cellenbetonblok.
Which foam are you using?
That's bloody impressive.
Cheers from Oz
Adhesive foam for aerated concrete TYTAN. Manufacturer Poland
Так вот кто пирамиды египетские построил☝️
that was impressive!!!
aircrete blocks are designed to be used with rebar YES REBAR - u need to use 2 pieces of at least 4 or 6mm rebar on the entire circumference of the building each 2-3 layers (or each layer with designed for it mesh reinforcement but rebar is better and few times cheaper)
all small buildings MUST HAVE REBAR or some sort of other reinforcement (like concrete pillars on each corner + extra ones for long walls) or else it shouldn't be allowed to live in (there are some circumstances for really big houses that allow u to not use rebar etc) - why u ask ....because if anything hits longer wall and damage it , or concrete foundation will settle in the ground , wall can fail and entire ceiling without enough partition walls can fall down on your head
Does this include aircrete domes? I had always intended to use aircrete (or similar lightweight concrete) with rebar but I don't recall seeing any of the aircrete dome makers include rebar in their builds.
@@Norbingel they still use rebar structure but not all the time because most of the time you do it outside on both sides using mesh and fibercrete -high mpa concrete with fiber reinforcement , aircrete inside act mostly same like honeycomb/ foam in composites making it thicker = stiffer + aircrete have insulating properties
But it this case in the video its mostly about that its build with blocks glued together with poliuretane foam ("adhesive") , if you pour it into the mold it is in one piece / glue itself together , where in this case when adhesive fail , blocks will start to separate
@@Norbingel small domes dont need much , its good to use some reinforcement but you pour it most of the time into molds (inflatable molds) so its literally single piece of aircrete
Yet its recommended to "spray coat" (concrete spray gun or manually applied) it with fiber reinforced concrete with any sort of a reinforcing mesh mainly for your safety if dome will crack in multiple places (then that layer hold it like pure concrete wall not aerated) + i will go with thinner mesh outside / thicker mesh but thinner layer of concrete if you dont want it thick or to expensive
PS
We talking about lightweight aircrete
You can also make it "heavy" aircrete
Then its way stronger and in some use you dont need reinforcements (i will still use some rebar / mesh just to be safe for entire lifetime of the building.
Why didn't you clean the last block??
After this experiment I understand why you are using foam
Absolutely Fabulous Job ❤
used 3 kilograms of cement and gypsum and 3 liters of water for each block, and the rest was alpha olefin foam. The block is smooth and does not stop. Do you use other types of solids?
First of all --- u need to apply way thicker layer of mortar
second of all --- u wish that after 20y it will still hold as strong as properly applied mortar , after 50y --- good luck (look at old fridges etc ...same stuff inside aerated to use as a insulation and it crumbles after 20+years
PS - to people that have houses built with adhesive :
check it after 15-20y if it still hold or need to be fix
you can also apply reinforcing mesh on it and "plaster" with concrete to make it strong
or order someone to make concrete pillars from inside to hold ceiling if u dont have them , but if u have pillars , no need to worry about anything then because pillars hold everything and rest is just to "fill holes" between pillars most of the time
Thanks !!!
This blocks are so beautiful how they manufacture m
ruclips.net/video/re-r-CpGC24/видео.html&ab_channel=XellaDeutschland
Очень впечатляет связка на пену. Я не ожидал такого👍🏆.Полезный эксперимент
Связка на пену несущих конструкций запрещается, пена предназначена только для не несущих перегородок.
@@happyotto6436Этот тест показывает полную глупость этого запрета.на своем участке я буду строить как решу сам.
Ух ты! Я не могу поверить!!
Mortar isn't meant to glue blocks together though is it.
Yes that's right. But here’s the result with foam..... I didn’t expect such a result
Клей пена это по-сути полиуретановый клей- их нужно как то изолировать , от укружающей среды. Для внутренних работ хорошо быстро-чисто, а вот наружка вопрос конечно риторический. Тем более вы хотите просто покрасить его
I like these ultra-light and above all isothermal blocks! Do you please have any ideas: how to make these white bricks
What these blocks are made from?
Aluminum powder. Cement. Sand. Lime. Water.
Hebel, aerocrete.
Load bearing, fire proof & light
Цікаво, а за витратами якщо класти на клей чи піну велика різниця, чи не рахували грн?
May be you have give more time to the mortar to set. 48 hrs is not enough.Typically 7days setting time is required.
Стоит ли?
Mortar would hold very well by overnight.
مااسم الماده المستخدمه في الفيديو
düşmeseydi. ben gelip yıkacaktım sonunda. BRAVO
awesome presentation ;)
Nice work to cement acc block super hero
Hi mate, Love From India.
what's the price of this glue ?
And can you share the formulation of this glue on your next video ???
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Просто надо покупать нормальный клей для газо битона а не фигню
Mortar is not fully cured
Эксперимент провален.
Склейте блоки цементным клеем и проверьте склейку на прочность через месяца 3-4.
Вырезал проемы в своем доме, через год. Разделить блоки по шву нереально, блок ломается возле шва.
А склееный на пену рвется по пене.
The fact you say nothing is very unnerving
You wanted it to break and fall!!
👇
🤯
What the fuck is he doing?
Showing a comparrison of the glue v mortar for Hebel blocks
Да разговора нет но ☝️ пеной накладно выходит
Я бы сказал трудозатратно
You're comparing apples to oranges here. You obviously can't bricklay so in effect what you are doing is showing two stupid ways to build
You completely missed the point. It's just an experiment, not building tutorial. building with foam, with these specific bricks requires some extra rebars (not always, depends how big is the wall/house/project) and in some specific areas and applications it may be cheaper, faster and better than using classical mortar.
(with people holding old ideas, we would still build houses out of mud mixed with straws and water).