Link to playlist for more videos about pressure reducing valves: ruclips.net/p/PLvce66kQTjJReaodK6EpMtVvRVi5o4Myu There are hundreds of videos at Know How Now, subscribe so you can always find the channel…. It’s free. I always respect your time and do my best to keep the videos brief, but informative. Check out the channel with this link: www.youtube.com/@Know-How-Now/videos
you helped me greatly today! had to trouble shoot a P & T valve that kept opening and your videos gave me the map I needed. In the end I had to replace my pressure reducer to the house, was at 120 PSI now at 60 PSI, and the back flow tank. Thanks!!!
You are welcome, Ronald. Way to go on being resourceful and finding a solution to the problem. It's always nice to hear the videos are helpful. There are now over 200 videos on the channel, organized by playlist. If you find a few free moments, click on the channel name and check it out. Happy New Year!
THANK YOU for mentioning the expansion tank/closed system. I would never have figured out what my issue was with my water pressure if you hadn't. I watched quite a few videos on adjusting the water pressure regulator and no one else had said anything about it.
You are welcome, Amber. I try to cover most situations in the videos. They are not perfect, but try to give out accurate information and keep you out of trouble. Sometimes there are some mistakes. In this video, I'm sure I got some thumbs down for saying "hot water heater" instead of "water heater". lol!
@@Know-How-Now Hi! Brilliant video! However, I have the closed system you mentioned and would appreciate it if you could put up instructions on how to adjust. Also, could you make a recommendation for where to get a cheap pressure guage that I don't expect to use more than once? Thanks again!!
This was great, and a lot of help. I have good pressure in the house now. Thanks! But I heard a bit of a whoosh when adjusting the valve, as the water filled the pipes. I was expecting a more gradual increase. I hope that doesn't mean the valve is damaged. Thanks again! Great video!
You are welcome, Chris. Maybe the valve was stuck. I've seen small stones in water lines after repairs to water mains. The valve in the video has a screen before the "bell". Not all valves have a screen. Maybe you just had some dirt lodged in there. There are rebuild kits for the valves. I also have a video that shows how to replace a valve: ruclips.net/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/видео.html
Great video👍 I'm glad I found it. My water pressure seemed to be too high. When I cut on the kitchen faucet it beat down on the stainless steel sink basin like a bullet.. I also have that plumbing in my house that is prone to leaks.. I figured this would help it as well if I reduced it some.. I have a pressure regulator like the one listed on this video.. I ended up turning it counterclockwise about three times.. I didn't know about that lock nut as well.. That was a good guide in letting me know how much I had reduced the pressure.it is much better now. Thanks again for your very detailed and easy to understand video. The next time I have a plumber in I will get him to check the pressure as well.. I didn't want to spend $150 just to get it reduced to about the amount that it is now..
Appreciate this video could not get an answer from water company. They said they could not reduce the pressure from the meter by only partially opening the main valve. At least now I know what to look for.
Thanks for this. I hadn't thought to try to adjust mine. Got it down from 180 to 120, but that was the end of it. My regulators last about a decade. Will be replaced this afternoon.
@davidgrayson9185 Isn't 120 psi considered rather high? Are there any suggested ranges of pressures beyond which homes with copper pipes (or, differently, PEX pipes) may start to experience damages to fixtures and pipes? Also asking @Know-How-Now
Awesome and easy to understand instructional video. I have a pressure regulator and have never checked my pressure! Im fired up...going to Big Box home improvement store manana to buy a guage and make the adjustment! Thank you!
You are welcome, Mike. I have a video that shows how to check water pressure. Click on the channel name and look at the playlists to find it. The videos are organized by topic.
You are welcome, John. As many others have done, please consider subscribing to the channel. It's free and you easily be able to find over 200 repair and how to videos.
Thiscis an excellent channel anf you are an excellent instructor! Even if I cant do the work myself I can have a handle on potential problems and solutions, terminology to use when trying to explain issues, and just having a genetaral handle on things. Now if we can get rid ofcthis horrible sound in my house.
@@Know-How-Now Thanks for responding. I do have one question maybe you could answer. I live in a mobile home park so I know we have to determine whether this is from my residence or the community lines ( they are often digging- up lines for repairs all over the patk. Water main breaks etc.) Of course I know when I am running water in my own place. I had a hot water line replaced this past winter. They had to come back to fix it a few months later. I know what the hissing from the heating vents sounds like and it is not that. I had not initially considered water pressure because I knew nothing about it. As you can imagine I was researching for answers. I had a new water heater put in a few months ago and after realizing it could be water pressure I realized that this awful noise only started a few months ago. Sorry for going on but was trying to give some background. Here' s the question: if in fact the noise is from my own trailer, would it be possible for it to completely stop for a day or two then start- up again? Because it has. Usually waking me out of a dead sleep and preventing me from going back to sleep. It will continue for days and then stop for a day or two then start again. Thank you so much for your time.
If the noise started soon after the new water heater install, I would call the installer. They may have a suggestion for you or may come and look at it to determine if it is a problem with the install. If that route doesn't work, I would talk to me neighbors to find out if they too are having problems to determine if it is just your home or many homes. Then I would start to log times and dates, duration of the noise and try to correlate it with something else that is happening at the same time. Water heaters do expand water when they heat it.... that means moving water.
@@Know-How-Now I just called the company again. The more I think about it the more it makes sense that that is when it started. I just didnt know enough to make the connection back then. Thank you so much.
I've always been frustrated when I washing my car or even taking a shower with the weak water pressure. So I did what you said crank the bolt down a little and I'm so happy now it takes half the time to wash the car and to shower. Slightly concerned that the PSI might cause damage but I'm willing to take the risk, I don't have a gauge and all that mess. But to be honest with you it's not that strong of flow like at the kitchen sink, it's not splattering out or nothing so I think we're probably good.
Hi. I have a thermal expansion tank on my system. Your great video references 2 adjustments with this set up but did not cover what the second adjustment was. Can you please explain? My gauge reads my in home pressure fluctuates 52-56 PSI. The manufacturer sticker on the thermal expansion tank states "pre-charge pressure" of 40 PSI with max pressure 150.Of note, the gas water heater and thermal expansion tank are original and close to 30 years old, but still no leaks or related issues. I'd like to turn the whole house up to about 64-68 PSI as, currently, when any tap is opened, the pressure drops to 20 PSI. Thanks!
I just played the video. What I am trying to tell you, is that if you change your PRV pressure, you must also change the air pressure of the expansion tank. Sorry, I didn't realize that I was ambiguous. You may want to consult the installation instructions if you have them. You can likely find them on line or if the tank manufacturer has tech support, you could call them. There seems to be a lot of different opinions about correct pressure. terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/expansion-tank-air-pre-charge-pressure.3578/
Thanks for the very informative video. I have a 3 stories townhome with uneven water pressure in different bathrooms. Is there any way to manage water pressure in different places within the home?
I changed my gas water heater and now do not have water pressure. My setup is the same as you show in the video (the bell shaped reducer thing). I turned off the city valve and the one after the city valve. The water heater is now installed but I'm getting a PSI of 10 or less. Was I supposed to adjust the pressure reducer/regulator? I've never touched one of those before so I'm not sure what to do. Based on what I've read on the internet so far I believe so, but I'm not confident in the process. Thanks for the video
To clarify, you are using a gauge to check the pressure? Some times a hose bibb is before the PRV, if yours it that set up, you can check the pressure before the PRV. You shouldn't have to do anything to PRV. Maybe some debris from turning the valves got in the PRV?
Hi! Our city pressure was 90 psi. We installed this valve and lowered the house to 60 psi. Can you please guess how much the pressure would now increase with one full clockwise turn? Great video
I don't have any videos on expansion tanks. There are some debates on the correct pressure. It is common to set the tank pressure to match the house pressure. You may want to look up the make & model number of your tank on the manufactures web site. Often you can download the installation instructions if you don't have them.
Thanks for the video. Oddly, the regulator in my case seems to only affect the pressure when water is flowing, but when all faucets are shut, the pressure goes back up to the same number no matter what.
If you can't adjust the pressure to 80psi or less - no water running, there is likely a problem with the regulator. I have a video that shows how to replace one. Here's the link: ruclips.net/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/видео.html
@@Know-How-Now Took apart the valve, and there was a bad o-ring. Fortunately, Zurn sells a repair kit for the Wilkins 600 series valves, and it worked. Thanks!!
Google Translate from Vietamese: School teaches right, but when the village society does the opposite, it makes children depressed, giving in to temptation and boredom. I'm not sure if I should be scared by AI yet.
It's doubtful. If you have compression style valves, the washers on them (if they are damaged/failing) can make noises. There is a playlist on my channel that is all about water shut off valves. Click on the channel name and then the playlist tab.
With a Watts "bell-shaped" pressure reducing valve that's probably been in place for 15-20 years, if we assume parts have hard water calcification, etc, is there any extra precaution to take when trying to adjust? And are the Zurn equivalents (Zurn claims it has a cartridge design that's easier to swap out for maintenance) just as good as the famous Watts PRV? Thanks @KnowHowNow for your great videos.
There is no precautions to adjust. If the pressure is low, try cleaning the screen. If it won't adjust, then it's probably bad, there are rubber parts inside that can fail. I haven't tried the cartridge design. Is there anyone out there who has tried them? I have a video that shows how to replace a PRV ruclips.net/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/видео.htmlsi=y9V6_bXBvZunAJ8R
@@Know-How-Now Thank you for your tips! In my case, the old pressure reducing valve (Watts N35B, almost 30 years old) had hardly any response when I tried to turn the pressure down. Got it professionally replaced, with a Double Union connection so that future replacement of the valve is easier. When researching the brands, Watts and Zurn-Wilkins seemed to be the big names. Cash-Acme was markedly cheaper but I could not find enough reviews (or history/longevity) about it.
Hello, great video!! Have a quick question, why do you have to tighten the lock nut when you are done making adjustments? My pressure is at about 60 PSI and that is fine for me and my house. But, every time I tighten the lock nut at the end, then turn on my faucet, I get a slight water hammer, why is that?? Did I do something wrong? I followed your video. I have no expansion tanks in my house. Does this mean I have an open or closed system?? To solve my water hammer, I loosen the lock nut just a little bit, water hammer is gone. Why is that? Please let me know. Thanks, Jeff
Hi Jeff, the lock nut's purpose it to prevent the adjustment bolt from moving. It's just coincidence that the water hammer happens when you tighten the lock nut. If you are having problems with water hammers you may try doing some searching for information about them and their causes.
If it won't adjust, it is likely is bad. It is possible that some debris is stuck inside. Some models have a screen and clean out. The regulator in the video has a clean out. It's the cylinder on the bottom next to the bottom of the "bell". There is a nut that can be removed. Inside is a screen. If the regulator is old 10-15 years, then odds are that it needs to be replaced. Also, it could be clogged with mineral deposits. I also have a video showing how to replace a PRV : ruclips.net/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/видео.html
Will the bolt adjuster in a pressure regulator valve come out if you turn it too many times to reduce water pressure? I need to turn my pressure down but I am not sure if the old regulator is working or just has been turned up too high previously.
I can't speak for every model of PRV's, the bolt shouldn't come out. Get the model number & make, it's likely on a tag or stamped on the valve. You can look up the specs for it.
My basement utility faucet was replaced recently and began leaking from the spout a week or so later so I thought the new faucets parts couldn’t be causing the leak. I asked around and was given the idea that the water pressure could be too high, which made it start leaking. Do I need to shut the faucets water supply off before I can try to use your video to reduce the pressure, or turn it back on?
Thanks for sharing . Joe here i have some dripping coming from that top nut not sure whats going on with that part just noticed it today.. what would cause that i was wondering . Thanks
Should I put in ground after turn off valve to whole house or just in the garage that feeds the the inside plumbing? And I think I want one with a pressure gauge included to check from time to time.
Know How Now I don’t have 1 yet. My meter is in ground under a cover. After that I have a shut off valve under another cover. Then the pipe splits somewhere under ground to outside spigots and the other to inside garage. Then water softener and into house. Everything is threaded in garage so easy to install there. Outside would have to cut pipe and solder inline. If I reduce pressure in garage will that increase pressure to spigots? If only 1 PRV, where should it go?
Often, the outside spigots or sprinklers do not have a PRV. You likely don't need one there. The PRV should be installed on the pipe that feeds the house. I'm curious, why don't you have a PRV now? I don't know your local plumbing codes, bust most require a PRV, if the street pressure is greater than 80psi (for the house) you need a PRV. If you reduce the pressure in the house branch, it won't increase the pressure to the outside spigots.
@@Know-How-Now Thanks for the help. I am not sure why I don't have one, unless it was not code at the time. 20 yrs ago...... I have seen these range in prices from $25 to over $100. Should I get one with a meter to see pressure anytime, or do I need to put in a T? Since my pipes, in garage, have been changed to 3/4 copper threaded, I would like a model that would just screw in. Can you give me a link for a decent one?
Watts & Zurn are reputable brands. You can go to the websites to find the specs for the models. If you have questions, I know that Watts has tech support. I can't be sure to tell you the correct model for your installation from "the arm chair".
On the main water valve (located closest to the water meter), should the ideal setting be turned in full open setting all the time? ...and then set the water pressure? Tnx
If the main shut off valve is a compression style (it takes many turns to open/close), open it fully an then close about 1/8th - 1/4 turn. The position of the valve won't change the pressure, but it's good practice to do as described above when opening the valve.
If the locking nut is brass, and the adjusting screw is steel, then you may have stripped the softer metal brass nut's threads. If the adjustment screw doesn't turn by hand freely, I wouldn't be too concerned. I'm sure the manufacturers put the locking nut there for a reason. If the adjusting screw spins easily, you may want to mark it and see if over time it wanders. If it moves on it's own, then maybe you can get replacement parts from the manufacturer. They do sell rebuild kits.
The water pressure regulator was changed in my house (Zurn 70XL) and it is preset to 50 Psi but the pressure meter is detecting spikes of over 80psi Is this normal or I got a defective water pressure valve ??? Thank you. Great video
There are too many variations of valves for me to know how far out you can turn yours or if it has a stop. I suspect that yours may need to be rebuilt or replaced. There is likely a tag or a label on the valve. It will state the range of pressure. Mine says 25-75lbs. The 110 lb reading is likely over the range of the valve, indicating that it is not working correctly. Also suspect is that you can't get it below 75lbs. In most cases, they are not that hard to replace. (I have a video that shows how to do it.) If you choose to replace yours, make sure you buy the correct PRV for your system. If you are confident that the one installed is the correct one, you can likely find the same model and just swap it out.
How far can you lower the screw in the counterclockwise direction? if it the screw will eventually pop out all the way and if water will leak from the screw hole?
I can speak for every valve, but it shouldn't pop out. Make sure your shut off valve works. You can do damage control quickly if someone actually made that dumb of a design.
I had a plumber come out to increase my pressure. I’m at 50 psi. City line is at 100psi into the house (city verified). The Presdure reducing valve broke whe he tried to increase pressure. He put in a new one and it also broke when he increased. He wouldn’t do it again. It was a quality plumbing company. Does this sound familiar? I’m worried to try again but I can’t get by at 50 psi.
Are you saying that the plumbing company has left you with a broken PRV? What was the initial reason for calling the plumber? Did the plumbing system ever work correctly?
You are welcome! Best wishes for a successful repair. I have a video that shows how to replace a prv. Here's the link: ruclips.net/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/видео.html
You do not talk about how far can I turn bolt counter clockwise. Can it come out if I turn it too far or will it stop and not let me over turn it counter clockwise ?
I can't speak for every make/model of PRV. Allowing the bolt to turn out would be a bad design. If you are turning the bolt and it's not changing the pressure, then it's likely the PRV is bad.
Hey, great video. Quick question. When adjusting the pressure through the Pressure Regulator Valve, do you have to turn off the main water supply that feeds into the valve, or is it OK to leave the water supply main on, while adjusting the PRV? It's a bit of a pain to turn off the supply, adjust the valve, then turn it on again, just to see if the pressure adjusted to the desired level..
Great video ! I tried turning clockwise and counterclockwise on my Wilkerson water reducing valve 70xl. However the water pressure reading is the same at 120 psi. Does that mean the regulator is broken and needs a new one ? Am I doing something wrong?
If it won't adjust, it has likely failed. If it has a strainer/screen, you can remove the plug and try cleaning the screen. There are rebuild kits for some of the PRV's, but that means you have to turn the water off for a while. It's probably best to just replace it. You could buy a rebuilt kit for the one you took out and then keep it for the next time you to replace the PRV. I have a video showing how to replace a PRV: ruclips.net/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/видео.html
Know How Now is it Universal that regardless what brand, turning clockwise will increase pressure and counter clockwise will reduce pressure? Thank you!
You can likely find the installation instructions on the manufacturers website for your model to verify the turn direction, though if it doesn't adjust then it's not working. You should see some sort of change with just few revolutions.
Know How Now thank you. From your video it seems like you implied that counterclockwise will reduce pressure and clockwise turns will increase pressure. I did not know it is brand specific.
I can't speak for every make/model, there is a chance that there is an odd ball out there. Also, I am assuming you are looking onto the top of the adjustment bolt. Again, if it doesn't adjust, you likely need to clean/rebuilt/replace it.
I'll have to politely beg to differ with you. The PRV shown in the video is a Watts LFU5B-Z3, it has a bypass, so this system is not a closed system. Here Is the link to the spec sheet on the valve: www.watts.com/dfsmedia/0533dbba17714b1ab581ab07a4cbb521/20423-source
Yes there is a bypass but a PRV is typically installed where the pressure is higher on the opposite side of the PRV. Water will not move through the PRV bypass until the outside city pressure is exceeded. PRV = closes system Also the bypass gets blocked/clogged frequently
I tested the new PRV I installed, when I tripped the water heater, the pressure reached the street pressure, the bypassed opened and allowed the water go back into the municipal system (Just like an open system). I watched it happen on the gauge. There is no expansion tank, it's an open system because of the bypass in the PRV. The old PRV had been installed at least 18 years. The bypass never clogged. I took it apart. The gasket on the valve failed, no evidence of any clogging.
Know How Now “when the pressure reached the city level the bypass opened” lol. The pressure inside the home rising up to the city pressure is a result of Thermal Expansion. Maybe you should give me a little credit, I’m a licensed plumber certified in fuel gas. I do this everyday, you are spreading misinformation.
our water pipes in the house always explode because the pressure is too high when all faucets are closed. what do we need to avoid this? Pressure Regulator or Pressure Relief Valve?
To: 666blitzz - Imagine complaining when someone takes the time to help others. BTW Jackass - since you're the arbiter of perfection, you misspelled the word "being".
Хобби
Link to playlist for more videos about pressure reducing valves: ruclips.net/p/PLvce66kQTjJReaodK6EpMtVvRVi5o4Myu
There are hundreds of videos at Know How Now, subscribe so you can always find the channel…. It’s free. I always respect your time and do my best to keep the videos brief, but informative. Check out the channel with this link:
www.youtube.com/@Know-How-Now/videos
A no nonsense, to the point, and clear visual example with concise explanations. This is quality content.
Thanks for the compliment, Vincent. I do my best to make quality videos worth the time spend watching them.
Love these informative videos, no running around the bushes, just straight to the point...thank you very much
You are welcome. I do my best to respect your time and keep the videos brief.
thank HEAVENS for a clear, concise video with no overhead or BS!!
I do my best to not waste your time. Welcome to Know How Now, thanks for subscribing.
Or trying to sell you something like so many videos try to do. Very informative, thanks!
You are welcome. Sadly, there seems to a push to turn videos into a biased sales pitch for something.
You did an excellent job explaining this process completely and in detail. Thank you
You are welcome. Thanks for watching the video and the compliment.
you helped me greatly today! had to trouble shoot a P & T valve that kept opening and your videos gave me the map I needed. In the end I had to replace my pressure reducer to the house, was at 120 PSI now at 60 PSI, and the back flow tank. Thanks!!!
You are welcome, Ronald. Way to go on being resourceful and finding a solution to the problem. It's always nice to hear the videos are helpful. There are now over 200 videos on the channel, organized by playlist. If you find a few free moments, click on the channel name and check it out. Happy New Year!
THANK YOU for mentioning the expansion tank/closed system. I would never have figured out what my issue was with my water pressure if you hadn't. I watched quite a few videos on adjusting the water pressure regulator and no one else had said anything about it.
You are welcome, Amber. I try to cover most situations in the videos. They are not perfect, but try to give out accurate information and keep you out of trouble. Sometimes there are some mistakes. In this video, I'm sure I got some thumbs down for saying "hot water heater" instead of "water heater". lol!
@@Know-How-Now Hi! Brilliant video! However, I have the closed system you mentioned and would appreciate it if you could put up instructions on how to adjust. Also, could you make a recommendation for where to get a cheap pressure guage that I don't expect to use more than once? Thanks again!!
I have a video that shows how to replace a PRV. The end shows how I adjusted it. ruclips.net/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/видео.html
This was great, and a lot of help. I have good pressure in the house now. Thanks!
But I heard a bit of a whoosh when adjusting the valve, as the water filled the pipes. I was expecting a more gradual increase. I hope that doesn't mean the valve is damaged.
Thanks again! Great video!
You are welcome, Chris. Maybe the valve was stuck. I've seen small stones in water lines after repairs to water mains. The valve in the video has a screen before the "bell". Not all valves have a screen. Maybe you just had some dirt lodged in there. There are rebuild kits for the valves. I also have a video that shows how to replace a valve: ruclips.net/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/видео.html
Great video👍 I'm glad I found it. My water pressure seemed to be too high. When I cut on the kitchen faucet it beat down on the stainless steel sink basin like a bullet.. I also have that plumbing in my house that is prone to leaks.. I figured this would help it as well if I reduced it some.. I have a pressure regulator like the one listed on this video.. I ended up turning it counterclockwise about three times.. I didn't know about that lock nut as well.. That was a good guide in letting me know how much I had reduced the pressure.it is much better now. Thanks again for your very detailed and easy to understand video. The next time I have a plumber in I will get him to check the pressure as well.. I didn't want to spend $150 just to get it reduced to about the amount that it is now..
You are welcome, Charles. I enjoyed reading about your experience. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Appreciate this video could not get an answer from water company. They said they could not reduce the pressure from the meter by only partially opening the
main valve. At least now I know what to look for.
Thanks for this. I hadn't thought to try to adjust mine. Got it down from 180 to 120, but that was the end of it. My regulators last about a decade. Will be replaced this afternoon.
You are welcome, David. I hope the replacement goes smoothly.
@davidgrayson9185 Isn't 120 psi considered rather high? Are there any suggested ranges of pressures beyond which homes with copper pipes (or, differently, PEX pipes) may start to experience damages to fixtures and pipes? Also asking @Know-How-Now
@@petatube120 is too high. Thus I had it replaced 2 years ago. As for psi ranges… I am the wrong person to answer
Great video. Appreciate the clear, concise explanation.
You are welcome. Thank you for the compliment.
Thanks for explaining the parts. I’m trying to learn what intravenous systems make a house work.
You're welcome!
Good job explaining that!
Awesome and easy to understand instructional video. I have a pressure regulator and have never checked my pressure! Im fired up...going to Big Box home improvement store manana to buy a guage and make the adjustment! Thank you!
You are welcome, Mike. I have a video that shows how to check water pressure. Click on the channel name and
look at the playlists to find it. The videos are organized by topic.
This was great, and a lot of help. I have good pressure in the house now. Thanks!
You are welcome, John. As many others have done, please consider subscribing to the channel. It's free and you easily be able to find over 200 repair and how to videos.
·
helpful and concise, unlike so may utubers who just drag it on and on.
Thank you for a great video full of information.
You are welcome, Mario.
Great job. Right to the point!
RUclips doesn't always reward that kind of behavior. I do my best to keep the videos brief, but informative. Thanks for watching.
Thiscis an excellent channel anf you are an excellent instructor! Even if I cant do the work myself I can have a handle on potential problems and solutions, terminology to use when trying to explain issues, and just having a genetaral handle on things. Now if we can get rid ofcthis horrible sound in my house.
Thanks for the compliment. PRV's can make a noise, so can a loose washer on a valve. Best wishes for finding a solution to the noise.
@@Know-How-Now Thanks for responding. I do have one question maybe you could answer. I live in a mobile home park so I know we have to determine whether this is from my residence or the community lines ( they are often digging- up lines for repairs all over the patk. Water main breaks etc.) Of course I know when I am running water in my own place. I had a hot water line replaced this past winter. They had to come back to fix it a few months later. I know what the hissing from the heating vents sounds like and it is not that. I had not initially considered water pressure because I knew nothing about it. As you can imagine I was researching for answers. I had a new water heater put in a few months ago and after realizing it could be water pressure I realized that this awful noise only started a few months ago. Sorry for going on but was trying to give some background. Here' s the question: if in fact the noise is from my own trailer, would it be possible for it to completely stop for a day or two then start- up again? Because it has. Usually waking me out of a dead sleep and preventing me from going back to sleep. It will continue for days and then stop for a day or two then start again. Thank you so much for your time.
If the noise started soon after the new water heater install, I would call the installer. They may have a suggestion for you or may come and look at it to determine if it is a problem with the install. If that route doesn't work, I would talk to me neighbors to find out if they too are having problems to determine if it is just your home or many homes. Then I would start to log times and dates, duration of the noise and try to correlate it with something else that is happening at the same time. Water heaters do expand water when they heat it.... that means moving water.
@@Know-How-Now I just called the company again. The more I think about it the more it makes sense that that is when it started. I just didnt know enough to make the connection back then. Thank you so much.
You are welcome, I hope you are pointed in the right direction to find the solution.
I've always been frustrated when I washing my car or even taking a shower with the weak water pressure. So I did what you said crank the bolt down a little and I'm so happy now it takes half the time to wash the car and to shower. Slightly concerned that the PSI might cause damage but I'm willing to take the risk, I don't have a gauge and all that mess. But to be honest with you it's not that strong of flow like at the kitchen sink, it's not splattering out or nothing so I think we're probably good.
Nicely done!
thank you for being very detailed very helpful thank you
You are welcome, Anthony.
Great video..a big help TY
Thanks for the compliment. I try to make quality videos that are worth the time spent watching them. Have a great day.
So tighten the bolt to increase pressure, loosen to decrease pressure?
Good stuff. Thank you.
You are welcome, Eddy.
Great video....Thanks!
You are welcome, Chris.
Thank you. Consider putting in the video a taping on the pressure valve sometimes the spring is sticky and needs little talking to.....
Hi Sean, thanks for adding the tip to the comments. You Tube won't let me add anything after posting a video.
Thank you for the information. I would like to rebuild my valve.
You are welcome. Best wishes for rebuilding the valve.
Thanks for teaching
You are welcome, Teddy.
Thank you very helpful
You are welcome, it's my pleasure to help. Have a great day.
Very informative video thanks
You are welcome.
Love it.. thank you
You are welcome.
Used to sort this part at our foundry!
Hi. I have a thermal expansion tank on my system. Your great video references 2 adjustments with this set up but did not cover what the second adjustment was. Can you please explain? My gauge reads my in home pressure fluctuates 52-56 PSI. The manufacturer sticker on the thermal expansion tank states "pre-charge pressure" of 40 PSI with max pressure 150.Of note, the gas water heater and thermal expansion tank are original and close to 30 years old, but still no leaks or related issues. I'd like to turn the whole house up to about 64-68 PSI as, currently, when any tap is opened, the pressure drops to 20 PSI. Thanks!
I just played the video. What I am trying to tell you, is that if you change your PRV pressure, you must also change the air pressure of the expansion tank. Sorry, I didn't realize that I was ambiguous. You may want to consult the installation instructions if you have them. You can likely find them on line or if the tank manufacturer has tech support, you could call them. There seems to be a lot of different opinions about correct pressure. terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/expansion-tank-air-pre-charge-pressure.3578/
Cool tutorial gud evening
Thanks for the compliment. I hope the repair goes smoothly.
Thanks for the very informative video. I have a 3 stories townhome with uneven water pressure in different bathrooms. Is there any way to manage water pressure in different places within the home?
That's a complicated question, the problem could be poor design.
I changed my gas water heater and now do not have water pressure. My setup is the same as you show in the video (the bell shaped reducer thing).
I turned off the city valve and the one after the city valve.
The water heater is now installed but I'm getting a PSI of 10 or less. Was I supposed to adjust the pressure reducer/regulator? I've never touched one of those before so I'm not sure what to do. Based on what I've read on the internet so far I believe so, but I'm not confident in the process.
Thanks for the video
To clarify, you are using a gauge to check the pressure? Some times a hose bibb is before the PRV, if yours it that set up, you can check the pressure before the PRV. You shouldn't have to do anything to PRV. Maybe some debris from turning the valves got in the PRV?
Thank you
You're welcome
Great infor.
Thanks!
Hi! Our city pressure was 90 psi. We installed this valve and lowered the house to 60 psi. Can you please guess how much the pressure would now increase with one full clockwise turn? Great video
There are so many valve make/models, I can't give you an accurate guess.
Good video ..could you tell me a bit more about the expansion tank and equalizing the pressure..
I don't have any videos on expansion tanks. There are some debates on the correct pressure. It is common to set the tank pressure to match the house pressure. You may want to look up the make & model number of your tank on the manufactures web site. Often you can download the installation instructions if you don't have them.
Thanks for the video. Oddly, the regulator in my case seems to only affect the pressure when water is flowing, but when all faucets are shut, the pressure goes back up to the same number no matter what.
If you can't adjust the pressure to 80psi or less - no water running, there is likely a problem with the regulator. I have a video that shows how to replace one. Here's the link: ruclips.net/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/видео.html
@@Know-How-Now Took apart the valve, and there was a bad o-ring. Fortunately, Zurn sells a repair kit for the Wilkins 600 series valves, and it worked. Thanks!!
Thanks for the update. It's good to know you were able find a repair kit and fix the problem.
Trường học dạy đúng đi nữa nhưng khi xã hội xóm làng làm ngược lại làm cho trẻ chán nản buông xuôi theo cám dỗ và chán nản
Google Translate from Vietamese: School teaches right, but when the village society does the opposite, it makes children depressed, giving in to temptation and boredom.
I'm not sure if I should be scared by AI yet.
Great video . When i turn on certain faucets i have a loud pitch squeal from kitchen sink . Thats where my regulator is ?
It's doubtful. If you have compression style valves, the washers on them (if they are damaged/failing) can make noises. There is a playlist on my channel that is all about water shut off valves. Click on the channel name and then the playlist tab.
With a Watts "bell-shaped" pressure reducing valve that's probably been in place for 15-20 years, if we assume parts have hard water calcification, etc, is there any extra precaution to take when trying to adjust? And are the Zurn equivalents (Zurn claims it has a cartridge design that's easier to swap out for maintenance) just as good as the famous Watts PRV? Thanks @KnowHowNow for your great videos.
There is no precautions to adjust. If the pressure is low, try cleaning the screen. If it won't adjust, then it's probably bad, there are rubber parts inside that can fail. I haven't tried the cartridge design. Is there anyone out there who has tried them? I have a video that shows how to replace a PRV ruclips.net/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/видео.htmlsi=y9V6_bXBvZunAJ8R
@@Know-How-Now Thank you for your tips! In my case, the old pressure reducing valve (Watts N35B, almost 30 years old) had hardly any response when I tried to turn the pressure down. Got it professionally replaced, with a Double Union connection so that future replacement of the valve is easier. When researching the brands, Watts and Zurn-Wilkins seemed to be the big names. Cash-Acme was markedly cheaper but I could not find enough reviews (or history/longevity) about it.
You are welcome. Good to hear you have resolved the problem. Thanks for following up with the details. Have a great day.
Hello, great video!! Have a quick question, why do you have to tighten the lock nut when you are done making adjustments? My pressure is at about 60 PSI and that is fine for me and my house. But, every time I tighten the lock nut at the end, then turn on my faucet, I get a slight water hammer, why is that?? Did I do something wrong? I followed your video. I have no expansion tanks in my house. Does this mean I have an open or closed system?? To solve my water hammer, I loosen the lock nut just a little bit, water hammer is gone. Why is that? Please let me know. Thanks, Jeff
Hi Jeff, the lock nut's purpose it to prevent the adjustment bolt from moving. It's just coincidence that the water hammer happens when you tighten the lock nut. If you are having problems with water hammers you may try doing some searching for information about them and their causes.
Great video! I did adjust accordingly but pressure did not go down at all. Does that mean regulator has gone bad and needs a new one? Thanks!
If it won't adjust, it is likely is bad. It is possible that some debris is stuck inside. Some models have a screen and clean out. The regulator in the video has a clean out. It's the cylinder on the bottom next to the bottom of the "bell". There is a nut that can be removed. Inside is a screen. If the regulator is old 10-15 years, then odds are that it needs to be replaced. Also, it could be clogged with mineral deposits. I also have a video showing how to replace a PRV : ruclips.net/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/видео.html
@@Know-How-Now Your video was very helpful. Thanks! I posted a question on the other video. Will appreciate if you can share your feedback there.
Will the bolt adjuster in a pressure regulator valve come out if you turn it too many times to reduce water pressure?
I need to turn my pressure down but I am not sure if the old regulator is working or just has been turned up too high previously.
I can't speak for every model of PRV's, the bolt shouldn't come out. Get the model number & make, it's likely on a tag or stamped on the valve. You can look up the specs for it.
My basement utility faucet was replaced recently and began leaking from the spout a week or so later so I thought the new faucets parts couldn’t be causing the leak. I asked around and was given the idea that the water pressure could be too high, which made it start leaking. Do I need to shut the faucets water supply off before I can try to use your video to reduce the pressure, or turn it back on?
When adjusting the PRV, you don't need to turn the water supply of to the faucet.
Thanks for sharing . Joe here i have some dripping coming from that top nut not sure whats going on with that part just noticed it today.. what would cause that i was wondering . Thanks
Sounds like an internal seal is leaking, Joe. I have a video that shows how to replace the valve ruclips.net/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/видео.html
@@Know-How-Now Yes sounds maybe it. Thanks
Hi,
What size wrench is needed?
Thanks for video sir! What if my water pressure is different in the different areas around the house ?
rgwater.com/why-does-the-water-pressure-change-throughout-my-home/
Finally!!!!
Should I put in ground after turn off valve to whole house or just in the garage that feeds the the inside plumbing? And I think I want one with a pressure gauge included to check from time to time.
I'm not clear on your question. Are you saying you have two PRV's?
Know How Now I don’t have 1 yet. My meter is in ground under a cover. After that I have a shut off valve under another cover. Then the pipe splits somewhere under ground to outside spigots and the other to inside garage. Then water softener and into house. Everything is threaded in garage so easy to install there. Outside would have to cut pipe and solder inline. If I reduce pressure in garage will that increase pressure to spigots? If only 1 PRV, where should it go?
Often, the outside spigots or sprinklers do not have a PRV. You likely don't need one there. The PRV should be installed on the pipe that feeds the house. I'm curious, why don't you have a PRV now? I don't know your local plumbing codes, bust most require a PRV, if the street pressure is greater than 80psi (for the house) you need a PRV. If you reduce the pressure in the house branch, it won't increase the pressure to the outside spigots.
@@Know-How-Now Thanks for the help. I am not sure why I don't have one, unless it was not code at the time. 20 yrs ago......
I have seen these range in prices from $25 to over $100.
Should I get one with a meter to see pressure anytime, or do I need to put in a T? Since my pipes, in garage, have been changed to 3/4 copper threaded, I would like a model that would just screw in. Can you give me a link for a decent one?
Watts & Zurn are reputable brands. You can go to the websites to find the specs for the models. If you have questions, I know that Watts has tech support. I can't be sure to tell you the correct model for your installation from "the arm chair".
On the main water valve (located closest to the water meter), should the ideal setting be turned in full open setting all the time? ...and then set the water pressure? Tnx
If the main shut off valve is a compression style (it takes many turns to open/close), open it fully an then close about 1/8th - 1/4 turn. The position of the valve won't change the pressure, but it's good practice to do as described above when opening the valve.
A few months ago I may have adjusted our pressure regulated valve without loosening the lock nut. Any chance I damaged it ???
Great video thanks!
If the locking nut is brass, and the adjusting screw is steel, then you may have stripped the softer metal brass nut's threads. If the adjustment screw doesn't turn by hand freely, I wouldn't be too concerned. I'm sure the manufacturers put the locking nut there for a reason. If the adjusting screw spins easily, you may want to mark it and see if over time it wanders. If it moves on it's own, then maybe you can get replacement parts from the manufacturer. They do sell rebuild kits.
Not Likely 👍
Aa ❤😂as a a 😊weqq😊
The water pressure regulator was changed in my house (Zurn 70XL) and it is preset to 50 Psi but the pressure meter is detecting spikes of over 80psi Is this normal or I got a defective water pressure valve ??? Thank you. Great video
Did you turn the water heater temp down? When water is heated, it expands and the pressure increases.
how far out can the valve come out? we got ours down to 75psi, but i'm afraid to turn the screw any more. (it was 110psi)
There are too many variations of valves for me to know how far out you can turn yours or if it has a stop. I suspect that yours may need to be rebuilt or replaced. There is likely a tag or a label on the valve. It will state the range of pressure. Mine says 25-75lbs. The 110 lb reading is likely over the range of the valve, indicating that it is not working correctly. Also suspect is that you can't get it below 75lbs.
In most cases, they are not that hard to replace. (I have a video that shows how to do it.) If you choose to replace yours, make sure you buy the correct PRV for your system. If you are confident that the one installed is the correct one, you can likely find the same model and just swap it out.
How far can you lower the screw in the counterclockwise direction? if it the screw will eventually pop out all the way and if water will leak from the screw hole?
I can speak for every valve, but it shouldn't pop out. Make sure your shut off valve works. You can do damage control quickly if someone actually made that dumb of a design.
Counter clockwise to *reduce* pressure; clockwise to *increase* pressure.
Nice
Thanks
I had a plumber come out to increase my pressure. I’m at 50 psi. City line is at 100psi into the house (city verified). The Presdure reducing valve broke whe he tried to increase pressure. He put in a new one and it also broke when he increased. He wouldn’t do it again. It was a quality plumbing company. Does this sound familiar? I’m worried to try again but I can’t get by at 50 psi.
Are you saying that the plumbing company has left you with a broken PRV? What was the initial reason for calling the plumber? Did the plumbing system ever work correctly?
We have a cold water heater.
if it has a return line then it would be a hot water heater hehe
Greetings... I'll like to know why it leaks on the base of the prv around the screws
The gasket has failed.
@@Know-How-Now is there a solution to that
Replace it. You might be able to find a rebuild kit, though they are often expensive.
@@Know-How-Now thank you 😊
You are welcome! Best wishes for a successful repair. I have a video that shows how to replace a prv. Here's the link: ruclips.net/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/видео.html
You do not talk about how far can I turn bolt counter clockwise. Can it come out if I turn it too far or will it stop and not let me over turn it counter clockwise ?
I can't speak for every make/model of PRV. Allowing the bolt to turn out would be a bad design. If you are turning the bolt and it's not changing the pressure, then it's likely the PRV is bad.
@@Know-How-Now ..I was asking about the model orb you were showing. You reply is not making sense. Can the bolt come out or not if I turn it too far ?
Hey, great video. Quick question. When adjusting the pressure through the Pressure Regulator Valve, do you have to turn off the main water supply that feeds into the valve, or is it OK to leave the water supply main on, while adjusting the PRV? It's a bit of a pain to turn off the supply, adjust the valve, then turn it on again, just to see if the pressure adjusted to the desired level..
There is no need to close the main water supply valve while adjusting the PRV.
@@Know-How-Now Thank you.
Great video ! I tried turning clockwise and counterclockwise on my Wilkerson water reducing valve 70xl. However the water pressure reading is the same at 120 psi. Does that mean the regulator is broken and needs a new one ? Am I doing something wrong?
If it won't adjust, it has likely failed. If it has a strainer/screen, you can remove the plug and try cleaning the screen. There are rebuild kits for some of the PRV's, but that means you have to turn the water off for a while. It's probably best to just replace it. You could buy a rebuilt kit for the one you took out and then keep it for the next time you to replace the PRV. I have a video showing how to replace a PRV: ruclips.net/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/видео.html
Know How Now is it Universal that regardless what brand, turning clockwise will increase pressure and counter clockwise will reduce pressure? Thank you!
You can likely find the installation instructions on the manufacturers website for your model to verify the turn direction, though if it doesn't adjust then it's not working. You should see some sort of change with just few revolutions.
Know How Now thank you. From your video it seems like you implied that counterclockwise will reduce pressure and clockwise turns will increase pressure. I did not know it is brand specific.
I can't speak for every make/model, there is a chance that there is an odd ball out there. Also, I am assuming you are looking onto the top of the adjustment bolt. Again, if it doesn't adjust, you likely need to clean/rebuilt/replace it.
The PRV makes it a closed system.
I'll have to politely beg to differ with you. The PRV shown in the video is a Watts LFU5B-Z3, it has a bypass, so this system is not a closed system. Here Is the link to the spec sheet on the valve: www.watts.com/dfsmedia/0533dbba17714b1ab581ab07a4cbb521/20423-source
PS - I checked out your videos. Nice job. I really liked the one on warranty heads up.
Yes there is a bypass but a PRV is typically installed where the pressure is higher on the opposite side of the PRV. Water will not move through the PRV bypass until the outside city pressure is exceeded.
PRV = closes system
Also the bypass gets blocked/clogged frequently
I tested the new PRV I installed, when I tripped the water heater, the pressure reached the street pressure, the bypassed opened and allowed the water go back into the municipal system (Just like an open system). I watched it happen on the gauge. There is no expansion tank, it's an open system because of the bypass in the PRV.
The old PRV had been installed at least 18 years. The bypass never clogged. I took it apart. The gasket on the valve failed, no evidence of any clogging.
Know How Now “when the pressure reached the city level the bypass opened” lol.
The pressure inside the home rising up to the city pressure is a result of Thermal Expansion.
Maybe you should give me a little credit, I’m a licensed plumber certified in fuel gas. I do this everyday, you are spreading misinformation.
our water pipes in the house always explode because the pressure is too high when all faucets are closed. what do we need to avoid this? Pressure Regulator or Pressure Relief Valve?
You are kidding me.
Wooter.
Wooter
That's how we say it here. lol.
How does this lady know this???
Click on the channel name to find more videos, Omarqb. Thanks for watching!
Why at the important points, such like 3:02, you started stutter?
It's quite hard to understand the meaning of what you said.
Thanks for watching the video, it's my pleasure to help you fix your problem!
Ours doesn’t look like this.
0
She says "run water for 30 seconds ". Then runs it for 2.5 seconds, lol
I do my best to not waste your time... I doubt you want to watch water run for 30 seconds. Someone would be howling about that in the comments.
The water co. Told me to turn to thr right to decrease the pressure and left to increase..who wrong ???
So far, no one has commented that I am telling you to turn it the wrong way.... the videos has thousands of views.
Imagine being an expert and not beig able to say "water".
That's kind of rude, I make a video to help you fix your problem (for free) and in return you make a personal attack and mock my accent.
@@Know-How-Now don't give these type of ppl the satisfaction. Just keep helping the gracious ppl that love and appreciate what you do
To: 666blitzz - Imagine complaining when someone takes the time to help others. BTW Jackass - since you're the arbiter of perfection, you misspelled the word "being".