Another tip I've found when cutting thick wood, say 3/4", is that when the laser gets to a certain depth of cutting, the laser beam becomes out of focus to finish the cut. So after a few cut passes I raise the bed to keep the laser in focus to where the material is inside the cut channel and finish the cut all the way through.
Excellent help. I didn’t think about raising the laser and using the defocus to my advantage. And turning the air down. Also, I was focused on how to hold the wood flat, instead of how to keep it flat in storage. Thanks for all the help!!!
Great video. The air assist and the defocus are the ones I use the most. If you engrave leather, you MUST, reduce your air assist to just enough to keep the lens clean. Life is much better that way LOL.
Great advice, Michael. Thanks for taking the time to make this video it's very much appreciated. My next project is going to require pieces interlocked together, so thanks for the links regarding understanding kerf.
The photo advice - thank you so much! I'm experimenting with a bit damaged Longer Ray5 10W (burnt lense, waiting for new one) and lowering power made photos look decent on birtch plywood
WOW!!!!! I am absolutely impressed with this one!!! By far the best step-by-step/tip-n-tricks/how-to video I've watched to date since my laser became my bff. He kept me focused to the screen, interested in what he was going to say next. So, what did I do? I continued watching. Let me tell ya, Dude is a wealth of knowledge with verbiage that is easy to comprehend as he explains the whats and whys in detail AND he even dumbed it down for us beginners who are overly eager to learn, but cannot seem to find a good video to learn us without getting overwhelmed and moving to the next one. BI THUMBS UP from Maryland. Subscribed and will be following your videos for more learning, tips and tricks as well as recommendations for supplies. Thank you kindly for this. Will spread the word, routing people to your Laser Engraving 911 channels. Til next time cheers 👌🤘🥇📢🎤🎦
Ummm, wow! That is such a nice compliment! I think you win the best comment award for 2024 with this one, Thank you so much for the kind words and motivation! ❤❤❤
Excellent video. I had no idea that air assist made a difference. I am new to lasers and have been engraving with air assist on full blast. Will try it as soon as I get a chance. Nice quick explanation of what kerf is. I had no idea on a lot of these tips. Thanks again.😁
Great channel. Thanks for the tips. My Falcon 2 pro 40w with a Xtool fume thing-a-majig shows up tomorrow. So stoked I took the day off. The dog and I will be in the window waiting😄
Total noob here....as well as a new sub. A friend asked me if I could engrave his work logo into a finished gun stock. Little did I know, my 20w laser will not penetrate the shiny finish on the stock. Is there a tape, spray mask or some other option that will help me with this engraving? Thank you so much for the tips. Now I can binge watch the rest of your videos as I need all the education I can get!
Another total noob, what is the software you use to generate/edit your pictures? I can get picks from the web just fine but want to start creating my own work!
that really depends on the look your going after, you can engrave first then paint to get a debossed look, or you can stain or paint first then engrave away to paint to reveal the wood layer. They laser will remove all paint and stain.
Just bought my first laser engraver 2 days ago. Your video gave more information and useful tips than the previous 20 that I have watched. You have a new subscriber . Great video.
Probably a dumb question but the kerf would change based on material correct? For example cutting acrylic vs Baltic birch which have different settings would result in different kerf correct? Really enjoyed the video just trying to ask the questions that the video brought up as I had never considered these issues haha. Appreciate the video tons!
@@LaserEngraving911 I appreciate that and I am getting used to the P2 after coming from the S1 and the results I am getting are very good. It took me a while but the one tip I love, amongst many, is the cetering tip when you were printing on t-shirt. So simple but brilliant. Once again thank you
@@LaserEngraving911 it has been a while but I have without a working P2 for nearly 3 weeks. The problem I have is that it will engrave for about 1 1/2" correctly, lower power for another 1 1/2" back to normal. xTool sent me a replacement mirror assembly, the one that goes on the gantry. No change. It worked for a day or two
Thank you for the very informative video. Is there a followup to this titled "Top 10 Cutting Pro Tips"? Also many of us cut acrylic. Any tips for that material? Thank you!
thanks for the tips, you have answered some of my questions. I have a question for you. A lady asked me to make a wedding sign. She asked me to paint it black and the lettering has to be white. I should note that I have an Atomstack A20 Pro. I painted a piece of pine plywood and then I covered it with cricut vinyl (my big mistake, dangerous to ones health) I did a line cut on it and then picked out the pieces that I didnt want. I then sprayed the carving with white paint. It looked pretty good but I can see where the paint went outside the lines. and I can also see the cut marks in the wood. I have just bought some laser safe vinyl for cutting - what would you advise is a good power setting for cutting thru the mask without leaving a noticeable gouge around the letters. Burt
Burt, I would go about it another way. I would make the sign back from wood, paint black, then laser cut our the word, and paint white, then glue together.
You could then do a low power pass on the black paint of the letters for placement, or use the white letter outside piece as a template for placing the letters.
I would like to have a custom cutting board engraved. I would like to have something engraved with high detail. Could you give a recommendation on who I could send it to?
MDF is basically sawdust compressed with glue to make a synthetic wood composite. Its engrave fine with very little contrast, and is very hard to cut through due to the glues, and density, and is very hard on fume extractor filters. If your just engraving the veneer on the surface of the mdf base, you dont want to go through the veneer just engrave on the surface.
Tip # 10 is insignificant to my engraver. I’m using an xTool F1 and its kerf is at an angle. The top of the edge is narrower than the bottom edge. There are not many projects for me to do.
Thank you for the info. I'm new to engraving and just bought the xtool s1. If you could make a recommendation for me I would appreciate it. I'm trying to figure out how to use lightburn and haven't figured it out. I watched a tutorial on how to get started and drug my laser across the metal grid. I've asked in some groups but as always you get comments from peeps who prefer to mock you than help. Thanks in advance.
Sorry to hear that :( I would take off the laser module and see if there is any damage to the laser where you dragged it First. Next I would recommend that you use the XCS software that xtool provides and not start off with ligtburn right off the bat. You can use light burn later after you get familiar with your laser and the software that came with it. XCS software is much more user friendly to those just starting off with a new laser with little experience. Not saying light burn is not great, just need to walk before you run. hope that helps.
Question: I keep seeing dark stained projects that have a light colored/pale engraving on it and Im curious how that can be achieved. Is that something that can be done with a diode laser?
Hi There, what you are most likely seeing is people engraving wood that is a light colored wood like pine, or particle board MDF that has a stain on top or dark veneer, and they are engraving through the surface to reveal the light wood under it. So you could stain the wood dark then engrave through the stain.
Great content! Thanks for sharing the info. It does seem like there is something wrong with your camera though. It continuously pans and zooms throughout the video. Seems almost continuous, it happens so much. Hope there’s a way to fix that.
Michael, I know it is probably a crazy question... but the kerf value you find... do you find that once or can it vary from material to material.....i.e. as long as i use the same laser for the wood, or cardboard, or acrylic the kerf will be the same kerf number?
not a crazy question, yes the kerf will change slightly from material to material, so you will want to bench test that. It wont change much but it will change.
@@LaserEngraving911 a new kerf question Sir.... i cut a 20mm x 20mm square and the sides were 19.64 x 19.54 is it possible that there could be a .10 mm shift between the sides or did i do something wrong while making the shape? And i gather if ok i would have to do a kerf figure then for both the x and y axes?
Thanks for this video. I will definitely refer to these tips. I have a question - I have an xtool S1 40w and I am currently cutting 5mm plywood. I am setting a lot of charing on the cut lines. I try to clean it with rubbing alcohol but still find that it is still quite charcoally and it gets everywhere. I think that I need to adjust my current settings (80%, 10mm/s, 1 pass) to have minimal charring. What type of adjustments would you suggest; as a start? I reduced to 71% power and it didn't cut through. Will increasing the speed help? Thanks in advance!
Speed and Power are very related. I would start with max power and fastest speed and each time you run a test, drop you speed by 10% until you cut all the way through. Dont change the power. leave it at MAX, also it is crucial that you are in focus and that your air asset is TURNED ON MAX and working properly for cutting material.
@@LaserEngraving911 thanks so much. I had my air assist on automatic. Next time, I will turn it on max. I will create a test cut file using your advice. Much appreciated!!
@@LaserEngraving911 Hey! The only laser guru I trust! I am having issues cleaning up my engraved wood (250mm/s, 30%). I am using plywood from the hardware store 5mm. I have heard you can use alcohol to clean it. I have used 96% alcohol and pure acetone and it just seems to smear the cut (13mm/s, 100%) and engraved wood. The ash gets stuck in the grain of the wood. I have heard you can sand the surface and that just seems to lighten my engravings. :( I followed your advice about turning off air assist when engraving and turning it on max when cutting. I am not sure what to do any ideas? Thanks so much!
@@jasmindrace Try running lower power and fasters speed and multiple passes to get depth, rather than one hard slow pass. Check your lens make sure its clean, check your focus. I like to use Methanol to clean up soot, or alcohol, never used acetone, air assist on low or off.
have you done a video on the best beginner laser engravers to buy ? i am trying to engrave on coaster size pieces of wood , dont have a big area for a machine and hoping it can be done in a home office with a desktop ?
Not yet! But you should really take a close look at the F1 Ultra, it can do all those items and more and takes up very little space. shrsl.com/4koqc F1 Ultra
Awesome video !I've been searching the web all week trying to get info on my new laser (didn't come with a users manual & can't get any info from the manufacturer). Long time cnc guy but new to lasers . I have a 40 w Aenbuslm with air assist wired onto a cnc wood engraver. Using glbr software to mach 3 controller. My main question is air presure for Engraving for different speeds and feeds. Some people suggest a small airbrush aircompresser ,but that barely pushes out air . Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks! A general rule of thumb with air assists and lasers is when you’re engraving you want to try to keep the air pressure down to like five psi around there pretty low just enough to blow any particulates away from the lens but when you’re cutting you want to have your air pressure mostly turned up kind of high around 25-30 psi except when you’re doing acrylic, you actually want to drop that down low so you get smoother cuts. You should watch my video that I just released on top 10 pro tips cutting acrylic to.
![Tee Grizzley - Blow for Blow (feat. J. Cole) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wNLN5xsx5dc/mqdefault.jpg)
Another tip I've found when cutting thick wood, say 3/4", is that when the laser gets to a certain depth of cutting, the laser beam becomes out of focus to finish the cut. So after a few cut passes I raise the bed to keep the laser in focus to where the material is inside the cut channel and finish the cut all the way through.
great tip, also a 4” lens helps too
😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😮😊😊😊😮😅😊😅😮o9
Thankyou for all these tips. #7 defocus. I am learning a bunch with you. Cheers!
My pleasure!
As a newbe I find your videos very useful thank you.
Happy to hear that! Thanks!
Damn the first two tips alone are a gamechanger already
nice!!!
Thank you for explaining Kerf in terms I can "see".
You bet!
Excellent help. I didn’t think about raising the laser and using the defocus to my advantage. And turning the air down.
Also, I was focused on how to hold the wood flat, instead of how to keep it flat in storage.
Thanks for all the help!!!
Great, glad you go some value, thanks for stopping by!
Thank you so much for explaining Kerf! This term was really kicking my ass! really appreciate you giving the basic on it
I'm glad I could help!
Great video. The air assist and the defocus are the ones I use the most. If you engrave leather, you MUST, reduce your air assist to just enough to keep the lens clean. Life is much better that way LOL.
Thanks for the tips! and thanks for stopping by!
Great advice, Michael. Thanks for taking the time to make this video it's very much appreciated. My next project is going to require pieces interlocked together, so thanks for the links regarding understanding kerf.
Glad it was helpful! kerf is a thing all in it self, but once mastered.. it easy to compensate for.
Thank you!! You finally got me to understand Kerf!
You are welcome!
Amazing content! I’m new at this and you’ve answered so many of my questions - thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video, chock full of handy tips. I am going to try the defocusing trick to darken and the rubbing alcohol tip to remove soot. Thanks.
Now that I know you have a channel Uncle Brian's gonna watch!
Thanks... and make sure you subscribe! 🤣 and tell all your friends to subscribe!...and your neighbors! TELL EVERYBODY!🤣
Pure VALUE 911! 👏Keep those tips coming please !! Loved the penny trick to defocus 🌟
Yay!!
You answered most of my questions and some I did not even think about 🙂👍
Nice, glad it helped!
Thanks. I all of the yips but found the air assist, picking wood and the photo tips as helpful. This was great info as always. You do not disappoint!
Cool, thanks! nice to hear that! :)
Excellent video for newbies. Very educational.
Thank you for this super valuable video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
The photo advice - thank you so much! I'm experimenting with a bit damaged Longer Ray5 10W (burnt lense, waiting for new one) and lowering power made photos look decent on birtch plywood
Great to hear!
I have yet to play around with defocusing. Might look into it this weekend.
Cool, yeah it works on all woods!
My first laser is arriving tomorrow (xTool S1 20w)...appreciate your guidance very much and just subscribed!
Welcome aboard! Thats awesome!
That was really good information mate. I’m just starting out and I found that your channel gave me more than all the stuff I’ve seen. 👍👍
Welcome aboard! glad you got value!
That was a great set of tips! For a beginner, this is very helpfull.
Glad you think so! and Thanks for stopping by!
WOW!!!!! I am absolutely impressed with this one!!! By far the best step-by-step/tip-n-tricks/how-to video I've watched to date since my laser became my bff. He kept me focused to the screen, interested in what he was going to say next. So, what did I do? I continued watching. Let me tell ya, Dude is a wealth of knowledge with verbiage that is easy to comprehend as he explains the whats and whys in detail AND he even dumbed it down for us beginners who are overly eager to learn, but cannot seem to find a good video to learn us without getting overwhelmed and moving to the next one. BI THUMBS UP from Maryland. Subscribed and will be following your videos for more learning, tips and tricks as well as recommendations for supplies. Thank you kindly for this. Will spread the word, routing people to your Laser Engraving 911 channels. Til next time cheers 👌🤘🥇📢🎤🎦
Ummm, wow! That is such a nice compliment! I think you win the best comment award for 2024 with this one, Thank you so much for the kind words and motivation! ❤❤❤
Thanks for the great advice and references..one way to clean wood soot and burn marks that I have used is baby wipes..non perfume and it works great..
Great tip! Thanks for sharing! make sure you check out my resources in the description for lots of wood supplies, and more great info!
Fantastic information. Those 10 tips are going to be so very helpful. I learned a lot with this video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. I had no idea that air assist made a difference. I am new to lasers and have been engraving with air assist on full blast. Will try it as soon as I get a chance. Nice quick explanation of what kerf is. I had no idea on a lot of these tips. Thanks again.😁
Glad it helped! and make sure you check out those other videos on Kerf in the description, they are good ones too.
Great channel. Thanks for the tips. My Falcon 2 pro 40w with a Xtool fume thing-a-majig shows up tomorrow. So stoked I took the day off. The dog and I will be in the window waiting😄
Have fun!
Thanks mate, top job!
Any time!
Thanks Michael!!!
Welcome!!
Thank you so much for the tips, it helps a lot since i’m a beginner in engraving business🙂 godbless
Fantastic review. Thank you for all great suggestions.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Ok...Dangit! You answered my biggest issue in the 1st 2min! Now I gotta go watch all your other videos. What else can I be missing out on?
go on then! get to it! 🤣
Solid tips and Tricks. Good video.
Appreciate it! Hope they help!
Excellent video! Thank you!
Glad it helped!
Thanks
No problem, thank you for watching!
Always fantastic information going to try air off today to see the results and will be using the penny trick for sure!
Awesome, thx!
Excellent tips thanks a lot
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Nice explanation
Thank You!!
Lots of good info!
Glad it was helpful!,, solid, make sure you check out the links in the description too lots of gold there as well.
Thank you
You're welcome! Glad you dig it:)
Total noob here....as well as a new sub. A friend asked me if I could engrave his work logo into a finished gun stock. Little did I know, my 20w laser will not penetrate the shiny finish on the stock. Is there a tape, spray mask or some other option that will help me with this engraving? Thank you so much for the tips. Now I can binge watch the rest of your videos as I need all the education I can get!
what material is the gunstock made from?
Walnut. Thank you.
Another total noob, what is the software you use to generate/edit your pictures? I can get picks from the web just fine but want to start creating my own work!
This is great!!! Thank you!!
Welcome!! Glad you enjoyed!
Having any multi layered wood laser videos coming up? Layering work for a shadow box....Thanks Chris
Not yet but great idea
love your content
Thanks, appreciate you stopping by!
What is the best practice when staining or painting? Paint first and cut second or vis versa?
that really depends on the look your going after, you can engrave first then paint to get a debossed look, or you can stain or paint first then engrave away to paint to reveal the wood layer. They laser will remove all paint and stain.
@@LaserEngraving911 thank you.
Just bought my first laser engraver 2 days ago.
Your video gave more information and useful tips than the previous 20 that I have watched.
You have a new subscriber .
Great video.
Glad I could help! Thanks for your support!
Completely off the topic but what is the brand of that jacket?! I love it!
Costco special baby! got it last fall! dont know the brand.
Probably a dumb question but the kerf would change based on material correct? For example cutting acrylic vs Baltic birch which have different settings would result in different kerf correct? Really enjoyed the video just trying to ask the questions that the video brought up as I had never considered these issues haha. Appreciate the video tons!
Yes, the kerf can change with different material, correct
Nice vid
Thanks! make sure you check out my resources in the description for lots of wood supplies, and more great info!
I am a noob with regard to laser engraving and I have learnt a lot from this especially air assit to name one.
Thank you sir
Nice, thanks for stopping by! make sure you check out my resources in the description for lots of wood supplies, and more great info!
@@LaserEngraving911 I appreciate that and I am getting used to the P2 after coming from the S1 and the results I am getting are very good. It took me a while but the one tip I love, amongst many, is the cetering tip when you were printing on t-shirt. So simple but brilliant.
Once again thank you
@@zedinator Anytime!
@@LaserEngraving911 it has been a while but I have without a working P2 for nearly 3 weeks. The problem I have is that it will engrave for about 1 1/2" correctly, lower power for another 1 1/2" back to normal.
xTool sent me a replacement mirror assembly, the one that goes on the gantry. No change. It worked for a day or two
UPDATE:
It has been replaced and it is working as intended
Thank you for the very informative video. Is there a followup to this titled "Top 10 Cutting Pro Tips"? Also many of us cut acrylic. Any tips for that material? Thank you!
Love it, I think that Title is worthy of a video stay tuned!
I just subscribe to your channel, excellent video and tips. Thank you!
Awesome, thank you! check out the links in the description too, lots of good stuff there.
thanks for the tips, you have answered some of my questions. I have a question for you. A lady asked me to make a wedding sign. She asked me to paint it black and the lettering has to be white. I should note that I have an Atomstack A20 Pro. I painted a piece of pine plywood and then I covered it with cricut vinyl (my big mistake, dangerous to ones health) I did a line cut on it and then picked out the pieces that I didnt want. I then sprayed the carving with white paint. It looked pretty good but I can see where the paint went outside the lines. and I can also see the cut marks in the wood. I have just bought some laser safe vinyl for cutting - what would you advise is a good power setting for cutting thru the mask without leaving a noticeable gouge around the letters. Burt
Burt, I would go about it another way. I would make the sign back from wood, paint black, then laser cut our the word, and paint white, then glue together.
You could then do a low power pass on the black paint of the letters for placement, or use the white letter outside piece as a template for placing the letters.
Awesome video and tips. Thank you.
Welcome!!
Thanks mate that was really useful!
Welcome!
Great information, thanks. You could change to 211 (Information) but somebody would find an awful person’s 2/11 birthday to blame you for.
🤣 yes they would!
It was good information.😅
Glad you think so! Thanks!!
Thanks Man digging the channel
Nice, thanks for stopping by!
I would like to have a custom cutting board engraved. I would like to have something engraved with high detail. Could you give a recommendation on who I could send it to?
We you could always send it to me! www.sonomalaserengraving.com
What info could you tell us about MDF. I’m working with maple MDF with veneer and regular MDF
MDF is basically sawdust compressed with glue to make a synthetic wood composite. Its engrave fine with very little contrast, and is very hard to cut through due to the glues, and density, and is very hard on fume extractor filters. If your just engraving the veneer on the surface of the mdf base, you dont want to go through the veneer just engrave on the surface.
For out of focus, is the laser head further away or closer to the material than normal?
That would be further away than normal :)
Tip # 10 is insignificant to my engraver. I’m using an xTool F1 and its kerf is at an angle. The top of the edge is narrower than the bottom edge. There are not many projects for me to do.
Well, you could look into the P2 or the S1 by xTool and solve that issue.
@@LaserEngraving911 if I had the money to buy a new engraver, I would. I purchase usually after a season as Santa Claus. That’s when I have the money.
Can I use mineral spirit to clean the scorch marks?
I would recommend that you use alcohol or methanol, or if you dont like chemicals, then a light sanding with a fine grit sanding block.
Thank you for the info. I'm new to engraving and just bought the xtool s1. If you could make a recommendation for me I would appreciate it. I'm trying to figure out how to use lightburn and haven't figured it out. I watched a tutorial on how to get started and drug my laser across the metal grid. I've asked in some groups but as always you get comments from peeps who prefer to mock you than help. Thanks in advance.
Sorry to hear that :( I would take off the laser module and see if there is any damage to the laser where you dragged it First. Next I would recommend that you use the XCS software that xtool provides and not start off with ligtburn right off the bat. You can use light burn later after you get familiar with your laser and the software that came with it. XCS software is much more user friendly to those just starting off with a new laser with little experience. Not saying light burn is not great, just need to walk before you run. hope that helps.
kerf = seam allowance
Are these tips for omtech 80w laser?
If you have ANY brand Co2 laser then these tips are for you! :)
Question: I keep seeing dark stained projects that have a light colored/pale engraving on it and Im curious how that can be achieved. Is that something that can be done with a diode laser?
Hi There, what you are most likely seeing is people engraving wood that is a light colored wood like pine, or particle board MDF that has a stain on top or dark veneer, and they are engraving through the surface to reveal the light wood under it. So you could stain the wood dark then engrave through the stain.
Not one product placement. Nice
hahah, well , I'm glad you enjoyed that.
Hi.
I need to make a sketch of a dog.
What program would be good for my laser.
I have Google doc
Canva
Imag-r
What program does everything?
Great content! Thanks for sharing the info. It does seem like there is something wrong with your camera though. It continuously pans and zooms throughout the video. Seems almost continuous, it happens so much. Hope there’s a way to fix that.
Thanks, its a style of editing call Jump cuts, its very intentional, not a camera problem. Its a technique to keep viewers engaged
21 minutes well spent.
Thank you kindly!
Michael, I know it is probably a crazy question... but the kerf value you find... do you find that once or can it vary from material to material.....i.e. as long as i use the same laser for the wood, or cardboard, or acrylic the kerf will be the same kerf number?
not a crazy question, yes the kerf will change slightly from material to material, so you will want to bench test that. It wont change much but it will change.
@@LaserEngraving911 ty so ill add kerf to the material test board i make then thank you
@@LaserEngraving911 a new kerf question Sir.... i cut a 20mm x 20mm square and the sides were 19.64 x 19.54 is it possible that there could be a .10 mm shift between the sides or did i do something wrong while making the shape? And i gather if ok i would have to do a kerf figure then for both the x and y axes?
A plastic razor blade really speeds up weeding tape out of engravings.
yeah I heard that too, nice tip
Thanks for this video. I will definitely refer to these tips. I have a question - I have an xtool S1 40w and I am currently cutting 5mm plywood. I am setting a lot of charing on the cut lines. I try to clean it with rubbing alcohol but still find that it is still quite charcoally and it gets everywhere. I think that I need to adjust my current settings (80%, 10mm/s, 1 pass) to have minimal charring. What type of adjustments would you suggest; as a start? I reduced to 71% power and it didn't cut through. Will increasing the speed help? Thanks in advance!
Speed and Power are very related. I would start with max power and fastest speed and each time you run a test, drop you speed by 10% until you cut all the way through. Dont change the power. leave it at MAX, also it is crucial that you are in focus and that your air asset is TURNED ON MAX and working properly for cutting material.
@@LaserEngraving911 thanks so much. I had my air assist on automatic. Next time, I will turn it on max. I will create a test cut file using your advice. Much appreciated!!
@@jasmindrace love it
@@LaserEngraving911 Hey! The only laser guru I trust! I am having issues cleaning up my engraved wood (250mm/s, 30%). I am using plywood from the hardware store 5mm. I have heard you can use alcohol to clean it. I have used 96% alcohol and pure acetone and it just seems to smear the cut (13mm/s, 100%) and engraved wood. The ash gets stuck in the grain of the wood. I have heard you can sand the surface and that just seems to lighten my engravings. :( I followed your advice about turning off air assist when engraving and turning it on max when cutting. I am not sure what to do any ideas? Thanks so much!
@@jasmindrace Try running lower power and fasters speed and multiple passes to get depth, rather than one hard slow pass. Check your lens make sure its clean, check your focus. I like to use Methanol to clean up soot, or alcohol, never used acetone, air assist on low or off.
Baltic Birch is cheap? On what planet?
Sorry, I was referring to 5x5 and 4x8 sheets.
Compared to real hard solid wood it is cheap. Check my links in the description for some great pricing on woods. Thanks for commenting!
I was the 912 thumbs up :)
Thanks!!
t h a n k s
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👌🏼😎
Hard disagree on the engraving again the grain. Looks far better with the grain.
and that is just fine. Do what works for you!
Excellent video! Thanks!
Glad you liked it! make sure you check out my resources in the description for lots of wood supplies, and more great info!
Thank you for the amazing tips!
Glad you like them! Thank You!
thank michael
have you done a video on the best beginner laser engravers to buy ? i am trying to engrave on coaster size pieces of wood , dont have a big area for a machine and hoping it can be done in a home office with a desktop ?
Not yet! But you should really take a close look at the F1 Ultra, it can do all those items and more and takes up very little space. shrsl.com/4koqc F1 Ultra
Awesome video !I've been searching the web all week trying to get info on my new laser (didn't come with a users manual & can't get any info from the manufacturer).
Long time cnc guy but new to lasers .
I have a 40 w Aenbuslm with air assist wired onto a cnc wood engraver. Using glbr software to mach 3 controller. My main question is air presure for Engraving for different speeds and feeds. Some people suggest a small airbrush aircompresser ,but that barely pushes out air . Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks! A general rule of thumb with air assists and lasers is when you’re engraving you want to try to keep the air pressure down to like five psi around there pretty low just enough to blow any particulates away from the lens but when you’re cutting you want to have your air pressure mostly turned up kind of high around 25-30 psi except when you’re doing acrylic, you actually want to drop that down low so you get smoother cuts. You should watch my video that I just released on top 10 pro tips cutting acrylic to.
@@LaserEngraving911 awesomeness, thanks. Yea ,i will check that out ✌️
Another great informative video, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Wonderful tips. All are appreciated
I use vinegar and a microfiber towel to clean wood after engraving or cutting.
Nice, another way, dig it!