Apologies for the audio in parts of this video. Naturally, it is very frustrating for me when I put effort into making these video’s then the audio doesn’t turn out properly but I am working on ways to improve this in future video’s. Thank you for bearing with me and thank you everyone for the support. Rick
Hi Rick, laughing here with my wife (has same problem as yours) saying they need to set up a support group. That car of yours looks absolutely amazing. Great videos 👍. Thanks for sharing!
"It is good though innit" - that says it all Rick!! My v6 GTV had crazy negative camber in the rear as well. I just resigned myself to changing the tyres out every 2 years as they always wore on the inside.
It is great to see you together in your GTV. Wish you and your Family the best. Pride with your self. You have done the car like a new car and better as the factory:)
That was a video Rick.... really enjoyed! 👍🏻 Tuned UK looks really professional.... shame its so far away as I'd be giving then a visit. I'm not confident mine was at up correctly after my rebuild! 🤦🏻♂️ Think I've said it before.... your car looks and sounds amazing! 😃
Neat little trick for the rear camber is to move the big bushing on the lower outer bolt to behind the shock absorber arm. Currently it is between the spring pan (or hub actually) and the shock absorber arm. It will correct it roughly by 2 degrees, no kit needed. It is one of those design changes Alfa did over the years. On the earlier GTVs it was not between the hub and shock absorber arm. 😉
Thanks for the tip. I think I understand what you mean but I’m struggling haha. Are you referring to the steel spacer on the long bolt between the bottom arm and the hub? I’m struggling to understand how that would all bolt together once you move the spacer over. Surely it would put a tremendous amount of strain on the subframe where the bottom arm bolts to it because the arm is being pulled over? Maybe I’m not understanding properly. Are you able to send me a photo illustration? ricksgarage916@yahoo.com
Congratulations to you and your beautiful wife for such a romantic walk ... :) Every time I like your car more, I consider myself alfista and I had never been interested in this model until I saw yours. I think you have done a spectacular job.
That was a great video Rick.... really enjoyed! 👍🏻 Tuned UK looks really professional.... shame its so far away as I'd be giving then a visit. I'm not confident mine was set up correctly after my rebuild! 🤦🏻♂️ Think I've said it before.... your car looks and sounds amazing! 😃
Not sure if it has recommended before - but to isolate the cutting issue to the MAF, simply unplug the MAF itself and take her for a drive to see how it all behaves. You will probably get a CEL (Check Engine Light) which might/might-not clear itself after you reconnect the MAF later on. The ECU will default to a different injection map not reliant on the MAF (a.k.a. limp mode) and although the car will lose some power and use more fuel, the cutting issue should go away if the MAF is the culprit.
Yep, simple diagnosis procedure for the MAF I just haven’t done it yet haha. I do have a code reader to delete the EML though 👍🏼. I guess I haven’t done it yet because I’m sceptical that it is MAF related because of the unusual symptoms but we shall see
Camber is out on the rear of most GTV, I think -2° +- 0°20' is the oem spec? I have had my v6 setup with 10 min of +ve toe feels really good with the alfaholics arb.
The Alfaholics kit looks really good. A thicker rear ARB would really offset the weight of the heavy engine up front. I can’t understand why Alfa Romeo didn’t do that in the first place!
Cracking video as always Rick, are you running eibach 20mm lowering springs on the rear by any chance? when my camber was out on the rear like that I swapped the eibachs off the rear for some suplex standard eight springs and the camber became spot on with no further alterations. elongating the upper wishbone bolt holes also works as I'm sure you know mate.
Hi Steve. Yes, I’m running 20mm Eibach springs all round. If I can’t find an adjustable camber kit for a reasonable price then I will be modifying the holes on my balljoint mounts to enable some adjustment
@@916DegreesNorth thanks. I have posted a link to a rear camber kit available form America however it is very pricey for something that looks pretty simple. Elongating the existing holes seems like the most viable option for me
@@_RicksGarage hello Rick I can also recommend elongating the holes I also have eibach pro 20mm drop. What I found is that you only need to elongate just a small amount say 2 to 3mm it seems to work. Hope that helps. Also on the rear toe you don't want parallel you want about 2 degrees toe in. This will help also with the effect of the camber.
Hi Rick, Congratulation to all. I hope to see you next week at the National Alfa day :). Anyway, what setting have you used for the Koni front and rear? Both hard or soft?
Unfortunately I can’t be there on this occasion due to work commitments it hopefully will be there next time 👍🏼. Currently I have my Koni’s on the softest setting to bed them in and help them settle. I have yet to research into the best settings for road use and I will be asking fellow owners for their views and opinions
Question to all of you guys: is it possible to set also the camber on the GTV? Or only the track? Could someone please show me the location, where to set the track/camber on the rear? My mechanics here don‘t know the car and struggle a bit..
What do you have the yellow konis set on ? The setting makes a huge difference again to the handling. There is a whole universe for settings I can’t remember what mine were but from memory half turn from hard on fronts and rears on mid to firm setting. But takes a lot of experimentating to get the setting you like. And had a feeling it was your MAF.
Hi, the Koni’s have 3 adjustment settings on the rear and are currently in the middle or intermediate setting straight out of the box. The fronts are currently on the softest setting to help bed them in. The car has done around 130 miles up to now and I’ll probably make some adjustments after around 300 miles.
@@_RicksGarage Softest at the front ? Your car may handle like a boat if that’s the case. I think they should be at least 1 turn from hard at least. There are 4 turns in total I think. The harder settings will totally transform the car. For the rears from memory middle settings are fine. The hardest setting on the rear is not usable as it’s bone jarringly hard. So mid and softest settings are only usable settings.
Yours was better than mine then haha. Mine was #85 so just the 2ltr version but it was completely restored and absolutely mint. I’ve had 2 Vectra B’s and absolutely loved them. How they look and how the feel to drive.........fantastic cars
Apologies for the audio in parts of this video. Naturally, it is very frustrating for me when I put effort into making these video’s then the audio doesn’t turn out properly but I am working on ways to improve this in future video’s. Thank you for bearing with me and thank you everyone for the support. Rick
Hi Rick, laughing here with my wife (has same problem as yours) saying they need to set up a support group. That car of yours looks absolutely amazing. Great videos 👍. Thanks for sharing!
"It is good though innit" - that says it all Rick!! My v6 GTV had crazy negative camber in the rear as well. I just resigned myself to changing the tyres out every 2 years as they always wore on the inside.
It is great to see you together in your GTV. Wish you and your Family the best. Pride with your self. You have done the car like a new car and better as the factory:)
Car is a credit to you Rick, such a lovely example.
Thank you Mark. Much appreciated 👍🏼
That was a video Rick.... really enjoyed! 👍🏻
Tuned UK looks really professional.... shame its so far away as I'd be giving then a visit. I'm not confident mine was at up correctly after my rebuild! 🤦🏻♂️
Think I've said it before.... your car looks and sounds amazing! 😃
So nice to see you both enjoying the car! Fantastic stuff, happy days! :)
What a great day out! The car is looking and sounding amazing Rick.
Thanks James 🙏
Neat little trick for the rear camber is to move the big bushing on the lower outer bolt to behind the shock absorber arm. Currently it is between the spring pan (or hub actually) and the shock absorber arm. It will correct it roughly by 2 degrees, no kit needed.
It is one of those design changes Alfa did over the years. On the earlier GTVs it was not between the hub and shock absorber arm. 😉
Thanks for the tip. I think I understand what you mean but I’m struggling haha. Are you referring to the steel spacer on the long bolt between the bottom arm and the hub? I’m struggling to understand how that would all bolt together once you move the spacer over. Surely it would put a tremendous amount of strain on the subframe where the bottom arm bolts to it because the arm is being pulled over? Maybe I’m not understanding properly.
Are you able to send me a photo illustration? ricksgarage916@yahoo.com
@@_RicksGarage email has been send! ;)
@@Btossijn can you send an email to me as well, please? I have the same issue.
stefanotedeschi13@gmail.com
@@stefanotedeschi3678 👍🏻 😉
The GTV looks amazing!
Congratulations to you and your beautiful wife for such a romantic walk ... :)
Every time I like your car more, I consider myself alfista and I had never been interested in this model until I saw yours.
I think you have done a spectacular job.
That was a great video Rick.... really enjoyed! 👍🏻
Tuned UK looks really professional.... shame its so far away as I'd be giving then a visit. I'm not confident mine was set up correctly after my rebuild! 🤦🏻♂️
Think I've said it before.... your car looks and sounds amazing! 😃
Thanks Rob. My car was all over the place beforehand but it’s driving fantastically now. Thanks for the comments 👍🏼
Found that really interesting Rick. Thanks for Sharing and your car looks better than new buddy.
Thanks David. Much appreciated Sir
Love the redex in the centre cubby lol
Busted 😂😂👍🏼
Drives a lot better i think 😁👍👌
Absolutely. The difference is night and day 👍🏼
Not sure if it has recommended before - but to isolate the cutting issue to the MAF, simply unplug the MAF itself and take her for a drive to see how it all behaves. You will probably get a CEL (Check Engine Light) which might/might-not clear itself after you reconnect the MAF later on. The ECU will default to a different injection map not reliant on the MAF (a.k.a. limp mode) and although the car will lose some power and use more fuel, the cutting issue should go away if the MAF is the culprit.
Yep, simple diagnosis procedure for the MAF I just haven’t done it yet haha. I do have a code reader to delete the EML though 👍🏼. I guess I haven’t done it yet because I’m sceptical that it is MAF related because of the unusual symptoms but we shall see
Camber is out on the rear of most GTV, I think -2° +- 0°20' is the oem spec? I have had my v6 setup with 10 min of +ve toe feels really good with the alfaholics arb.
The Alfaholics kit looks really good. A thicker rear ARB would really offset the weight of the heavy engine up front. I can’t understand why Alfa Romeo didn’t do that in the first place!
Cracking video as always Rick, are you running eibach 20mm lowering springs on the rear by any chance? when my camber was out on the rear like that I swapped the eibachs off the rear for some suplex standard eight springs and the camber became spot on with no further alterations. elongating the upper wishbone bolt holes also works as I'm sure you know mate.
Hi Steve. Yes, I’m running 20mm Eibach springs all round. If I can’t find an adjustable camber kit for a reasonable price then I will be modifying the holes on my balljoint mounts to enable some adjustment
@@916DegreesNorth thanks. I have posted a link to a rear camber kit available form America however it is very pricey for something that looks pretty simple. Elongating the existing holes seems like the most viable option for me
@@_RicksGarage hello Rick I can also recommend elongating the holes I also have eibach pro 20mm drop. What I found is that you only need to elongate just a small amount say 2 to 3mm it seems to work. Hope that helps. Also on the rear toe you don't want parallel you want about 2 degrees toe in. This will help also with the effect of the camber.
@@ds1868 thanks for the input, much appreciated. This will be a job I hope to cover on the channel soon 👍🏼
Hi Rick,
Congratulation to all. I hope to see you next week at the National Alfa day :).
Anyway, what setting have you used for the Koni front and rear? Both hard or soft?
Unfortunately I can’t be there on this occasion due to work commitments it hopefully will be there next time 👍🏼.
Currently I have my Koni’s on the softest setting to bed them in and help them settle. I have yet to research into the best settings for road use and I will be asking fellow owners for their views and opinions
@@_RicksGarage I got hard both rear and front but it is too much hard :(. Anyway, the 22 of August there is the Scottish Italian day
Question to all of you guys: is it possible to set also the camber on the GTV? Or only the track?
Could someone please show me the location, where to set the track/camber on the rear? My mechanics here don‘t know the car and struggle a bit..
What do you have the yellow konis set on ? The setting makes a huge difference again to the handling. There is a whole universe for settings I can’t remember what mine were but from memory half turn from hard on fronts and rears on mid to firm setting. But takes a lot of experimentating to get the setting you like. And had a feeling it was your MAF.
Hi, the Koni’s have 3 adjustment settings on the rear and are currently in the middle or intermediate setting straight out of the box. The fronts are currently on the softest setting to help bed them in. The car has done around 130 miles up to now and I’ll probably make some adjustments after around 300 miles.
@@_RicksGarage Softest at the front ? Your car may handle like a boat if that’s the case. I think they should be at least 1 turn from hard at least. There are 4 turns in total I think. The harder settings will totally transform the car. For the rears from memory middle settings are fine. The hardest setting on the rear is not usable as it’s bone jarringly hard. So mid and softest settings are only usable settings.
@@fredsalfa you suggest hard at the front and middle/softest at the rear
@@stefanotedeschi3678 quite hard at the front. I had half turn from hard generally. But this is just individual taste
I have the same issue.
Do you know if there is difference between tspark and v6 ball joint?
Rick we’re are you ?
You had an St? I had #11 st200. 👍😊
Yours was better than mine then haha. Mine was #85 so just the 2ltr version but it was completely restored and absolutely mint. I’ve had 2 Vectra B’s and absolutely loved them. How they look and how the feel to drive.........fantastic cars
"Car passed MOT"...10 min later looking at the undercarriage...looks as clean as a showcar...haa