How to: Installation of Pentair IChlor Salt System - Chlorine King Pool Service
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- In this video I walk you through the process of installing the new Pentair IChlor salt system from start to finish. Check out our website:
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Thank you for the video, just had a new pool installed and i notice the salt cell was set to be on 24 hours. now i know there is a comm wire i can use. i will look into getting one.
The comm wire is a great way to go!
So this is a good video but I just wanted to note having installed 100's of these systems you're showing a best case scenario. If you have an accessible timer with an un-used knock-out an installation can go smooth an swiftly, however, many times timers are located in the house, garage, etc. There's also the possibility of no available places to hook into the timer as well as old corroded electrical gear where screws shear off when you remove them and then a whole new box can be needed. There's other snags as well, terminals and wire nuts also have maximum capacities as dictated by NEC codes so simply adding your additional wire could put it over the rated limits. Lastly, you didn't show how to correctly hook up the bonding wire into the existing system, I've been MANY people put it into the pump lug along with the existing and that is a code violation for sure as well as a safety concern. The easiest way is to use an approved split bolt connector and if the bond is insulated strip some of that wire to create a hotspot on the wire so you can connect your new bond. I could probably list a dozen more potential issues, I'm not here to discourage anyone but I did want to point out some factors regarding safety. Owning a pool business and having worked with professional electricians I've seen many DIY installations done incorrectly.
You're absolutely right. This is the best case scenario here. Everything went smoothly where as a lot of the times it doesn't. I had one last week that I had to remove 1 of the GFCI receptacles in order for him to have a salt system without having to upgrade to a larger panel. You're right as well about the split bolt, which I did not show. That is the only way to connect a #8 bonding wire. Braiding it or a wing nut are not correct. I elude to this to a lot of other videos of mine. Thanks for watching!
Whew...wow...dissertation 🤪
Thanks for this video on replacing the Salt System
You're welcome. If you need any help please let me know. Have a great day!
I remember this pool,you replumbed the valves when you installed the new pump
Yep that’s the one!
Pentair recommends that the iChlor generator be installed in the vertical plane with 12" to 18" of straight pipe in front of the inlet. I was just wondering why you did not install it that way and if you had any experience as to the advantages/disadvantages with how the generator is installed?
I had to check the manual and you are right about the 12-18 recommendation. In all of my trainings with them I was told 7+ inches lol. Either way you just want to make sure it's not backed up against a fitting because the turbulence will damage the flow switch and give inconsistent production. Thanks for watching.
I'm replacing my ic15 to ichlor 30. I have a plugin power for my 1c15 bec i have timer in my superflow pump. Can i just add a power cable to this box and make it a 110 plugin also?
I appreciate all your videos they are really informative.
Thanks David. I'm really trying to have a lot of good info for everyone. Have a good day!
Great vid. Does it matter where the 2 wires go in the port for com I see it’s 2&3 ports but dose the wire configuration matter? Thanks
Thanks for watching. Yes they have have to be put into the correct spot based on the color of the wire. I hope this helps.
With the communications enabled to a Inteliflow pump does the salt system need to be on a timer? The pump is powered up 24/7 and then the communications through the control box would have the swg only generating salt when the proper flow is being sent from the pump, right?
Ideally yes as an extra layer of protection, but according to Pentair the communication from the pump and salt system power center does suffice. I will still continue to always wire to the load side, and when possible connect the pump and salt system via 485.
Solid work. Clean and clear! Good video
Thanks for watching Jonathan. I’m glad it’s helped you.
Can you make video how to install the com wire cable
What if you have an Easy touch automation system and you don’t need a separate power center
As long as you have the salt transformer on the easy touch all you need is the cell.
I have a 110v VS pump and new 110v SWG, how do I wire them to the 110v timer that only has 1-3 terminals and not 1-4? I need the pump to have continuous power to run on its own timer, and the SWG to run on the mechanical timer just as you describe. Thanks! Electrician can't make it out for 2 months...
Can I run the ground wire from the power center to the one inside the timer box?
Yes you need one ground coming from the sun panel that feeds into the timer box and out to the equipment attached to the timer box. One thing you cannot do is run several grounds in one conduit. That’s called parallel grounding and not good. Hope this makes sense. If you’re confused please hire a licensed professional.
Still helpful for me, thanks for posting!
Anytime Martin!
So I bought the intellichlor cell and power center. What other equipment do I need? Any cabling, pipe, glue, etc???
Great vid, do you have part number for that comm wire and 4pin harness? Cheers
Thanks! Very helpful and informative
Thanks for the comment Karen! Much appreciated.
Great video, I'm installing this same set up tomorrow. Discharge out of the pump to multiport is 2 inch. The rest of the plumbing is 1.5 inch. I'm going to install the IC40 right after the pump discharge. I assume it will be okay.
Thanks for watching. I would always install a salt system as the last piece of equipment prior to it returning to the pool. Always install it after the filter. All you have to do is get some 2 to 1.5" reducers and glue those into the couplings of the salt system to make it fit in the 1.5" plumbing. Installing the salt cell prior to any equipment can cause premature wear to that piece of equipment the chlorinated water is rushing into. Do you have a heater?
@@ChlorineKingPoolService About a month ago, I installed the chlorine generator after the heater, after the check valve. Super easy install. In Houston we have to have a check valve before the salt cell to prevent back flow from the cell to the heater. The heater is ancient and old. I will quote the customer to bypass or sell a new heater soon.
Question , I have a customer that has a 1.5 hp variable speed pump with an internal timer, how would I connect the power source?
I hook the variable to the line side (breaker spots 1&3) and the salt cell on the load side (spots 2&4). That way the pump has power 24/7 and runs off the pumps panel and then the Intermatic runs the salt system. Make sure you have the salt system turn on and shut off inside the window of the pump runtime. You do not want the salt cell operating when the pump is off. Use at your own risk and thanks for watching!
@@ChlorineKingPoolService Maybe I'm just not getting it. What if you don't want to use the manual timer any more and just want the iChlor to come on with the VS pump? Is there a way to do this? I'm asking because if the power goes out for a while, the VS pump is still on it's timer and the iChlor's manual time would be off sync. If they came on/off together, that wouldn't happen. Am I not thinking correctly? TIA!
This is a great video; however my set-up is a bit different. The time is not managing the stop/start of the pump; the pentair intelliflo variable speed pump has the smarts to run/stop on its on. Having said that; how do I connect the power master to the timer for the IC40 to start and stop with the pump?
Actually, our set up is exactly the same. The pump is ran onto the "line side (terminals 1 and 3)" of the timer, or where the breakers plug into. That way, the pump has 24/7 power and it is ran off it's own timer on the pump panel. Then the salt system is ran off the "load side (terminals 2 and 4)" of the timer which will turn the salt system on/off.
In other words, you'll have your pump schedule within the pump itself, and then the schedule you set the manual timer to run with the salt system being turned on and off with that.
Can this b installed vertically?
Yes the Ichlor can. Preferably on the upflow of water. Not on the down flow.
@@ChlorineKingPoolService thank you. I had mine “professionally” installed and the flow switch has gone out 4 times. It is installed on the return side of the filter vertically flowing down. Could this be the root cause of the failure?
Do the IC30 work well with the SuperFloVS pump and the IntelliPh?
Hey was wondering. Being that the pump is wired directly. How many attemps did it take to time the shut down of the pump with you turning the time clock switch off? Great video by the way!
Hey Robert, you mean to time the salt system? I usually set the salt system to come on an hour after the pump does and also an hour before the pump is set to shut off. If that's not what you were looking for please reply and I'll be glad to help!
Chlorine King Pool Service you mentioned at the 3:57 mark that the pump is wired to 1 & 3 at the time clock. That would make the time clock a junction box . It looks like you have a Jandy variable speed pump.
Yes it was wired at 1 and 3 to give constant power to the pump. It would be a junction box with the exception the salt system is wired at 2 and 4 to operate the salt system during the run time of the pump. It time clock really isn't needed in this SPECIFIC installation because of the comm wire which only works with the intellipro/intelliflo pumps and iChlor/Intellichlor salt systems.
Pictured here is an intellipro. In this set up not only do you have the flow switch as a safety precaution, you also have the comm wire not allowing the cell to produce unless a signal is sent to the cell that the pump is running. Lastly, as a third safety feature, you have the salt system running on the manual time clock. I hope this all makes since. If you need to please feel free to call me and I'll explain further.
Thank you for the video
You're welcome! Have a good day.
😫🙏🏻can someone please make a video of how to connect the iChor to the Intelliconnect please!!!!🙏🏻
Awesome information! 👏💯
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed the video I have a question Can I ins tall MY iChlor 30k and pentair Intelliflo VSF variable speed 3.95 without a timer and directly onto the gfci panel breaker as my on/off switch. will the pump and ichlor communicate for on and off?
Hi. They will communicate if you connect the com wire. Otherwise wire the pump to a timer. 1 & 3 for pump continuous power and 2 & 4 for the generator. Set the generator to turn off about 15 mins before pump shuts off
I set my power supply to run on 110 and plug directly into an outlet, but I'm concerned that there is still power to the power supply when the pump is off. Doesn't the flow sensor built into the chlorinator shut the system down when there is no flow detected?
I'm not sure of your exact set up but it sounds like you'd have continuous power. While the flow switch should cut the system off there are times where it could be falsely activated when the pump is not on. There are pics on the net with the dangers of chlorine gas buildup in the PVC. I'd urge you to get a pool professional out there to evaluate your system. Good luck!
Sorry for leaving out the particulars. I installed a new Pentair IC40 IntelliChlor salt generator with the same power supply. I opted to wire it for 110V with a grounded cord to an outlet that was installed for my original AquaChlor Salt system. The issue for me is the outlet isn't controlled by the timer. I'm not an electrician, and I don't want to mess with changing the outlet, so I may be looking to rewire the power supply to 240V. But now I'm confused as to the difference between the 1/3 posts and the 2/4 posts in the timer. Are you saying that the pump is going to stay on even though the timer switch has flipped the power off?
If you have a variable speed pump I run the load wires to terminals 1 and 3 which are the same spots where the wires from the breakers are connected. 2 and 4 are typically for the load wires going out to equipment, which in this case would be for the salt system (so it's not wired hot like you have now 24/7). Then the timer will turn on and off the salt system for you. Make sure the salt system turns on and off in between the run times of the variable speed pump.
If you don't have a variable, but a single speed, then I would hook the salt system and single speed to 2 and 4 together. This way they turn on and off together, at the same time, however you have the timer set.
In your situation I would hire a pool professional to make sure it's done properly and safely. Good luck!
You made it very clear. I appreciate the help. I'm going to rewire the salt system power to 240V and run them to posts 2/4 like you show in the video. Thanks.
Do you think the ichlor 30 is a better system than the ic40?
I do prefer the iChlor over the IC40 because there's more you can do with it, and a lot easier to diagnose what condition the cell is in. I hope this helps.
can the ichlor30 be installed vertically?
Yes it can. Thanks for watching.
Do you have a video that shows how to clean the salt cell?
Hello, yes I do. Here you go: ruclips.net/video/hKas44cI3-Q/видео.html
@@ChlorineKingPoolService thank you!
You’re very welcome.
1) That archaic timer from previous century is doing nothing in there. You should have ripped it off and install power center in its place. Would have saved labor and parts.
2) You didn't install bypass loop, for flow rates over 80gpm, it won't generate any chlorine above 80gpm. 3) Also Communication cable is not required since the cell has flow rate sensor and won't operate below 20gpm.
1) It's there to power the salt system, as mentioned in iChlor's manual and during lectures in the Pentair training courses. In fact, in their manual, under warnings in the beginning of the manual (page 2), it states that it should ALWAYS be wired to the load side of a timer switch in order to operate within the run times of the pump. Here's a PDF of their manual and the excerpt is on page 2.
www.pentairpoolme.com/uploads/document/file/1280/20322_iCHLOR_OM_Complete_LR.pdf
2) No need to install a bypass loop as this pool will never see 80GPM. It's a small residential pool.
3) Communication wire is an additional safety step to ensure the salt cell does not generate chlorine gas if the pump is off. If the pump is off, the ichlor will not get a signal that the pump is on, thus, no chlorine will be produced.
In closing, having the communication wire and wiring the salt cell on the load side virtually eliminates any possibility of having an explosion due to chlorine gas build up from the cell producing when the water is not moving.
@@ChlorineKingPoolService
I've read the installation manual and, to be honest, it smells like it was written by somebody far from engineering team. I'm not saying that you did anything wrong, in fact majority of pool pro's would do worse - thanks for putting all 4 screws. (Kudos to OCD customers)
1) Well, the fact that the old timer clock was not discarded when the new programmable pump was installed, already raises the question - why would someone keep unused gear intentionally making whole setup look complicated when it's not. I understand that you are a pro and were hired to install gear, not to remove gear, even if it's unused, and would probably need customers approval for that. But I'm just trying to reach DIY homeowners to encourage trashing any useless and unused gear left behind by 10 different pool pro's. That will make wiring easier to understand and less room for electrical mistakes. That's been my case too when I just purchased my house. The wiring was so complicated so that I had to install my good old AutoCAD to sketch it to understand what's going on, which also helped to identify numerous NEC violations. It was clear as sky that each pool pro who had to deal with it, decided not to deal with it, but complicate it further more by adding gear on top of existing jungle box. I freed up entire wall off junk.
2) What if customer decides to upgrade pool pump to 3-4HP and run it at max speed for better skimming? Here comes another call to pool company to figure out why cell is not producing any chlorine.
3) It certainly won't harm as the additional safety precaution. A backup in the event of stuck flow sensor for example. However just so that everybody knows IChlor is smart enough to take care of itself and does NOT need any external help like timers, pump communication.
Is it same wiring for ic60?
Yes, it should be as it uses the same power center. You just have to make sure you have the voltage correct. If you wire 220 from the timer (or breaker) to the 120 set up in the power center you're all but sure to burn it out.
Where are you located?
Seminole, FL.
So basically, you use the same 220v line that the pump uses to power this salt system power? Also, do you have a video on how to install this to an intelliflo pump? Is there a particular wire needed?
Yep, you got it. You need the Pentair 485 communication wire. You run that from the port on the side of the Intelliflo drive to the 4pin connector in the power center of the salt system. That will allow the two to “talk.” Hope this helps.
@@ChlorineKingPoolService just realized that the pump i got no longer has that plug. Intelliflo3. I had to do it another way. They should’ve kept that outlet.
Thanks for the video, but why didn't you plumb the salt cell vertically? That's the way Pentair recommends doing it.
Thanks for watching. Although Pentair says the best performance is vertical both the iChlor and Intellichlor can be plumbed both ways. I haven’t seen any issues with plumbing it horizontally and I don’t see the need (in most cases) in building a loop in the plumbing and all the water restriction that comes with 4 additional 90’s to get an immeasurable performance benefit of mounting it vertically. I much rather see the filtration/flow kept as optimal as possible.
@@ChlorineKingPoolService thanks!
Don’t mention it. Thanks for watching. Something to keep in mind the Jandy Truclear can only be mounted horizontally per their manual.
How do you wire the pump communication wiring in the intellichlor? I have a royal mess set up in my house I bought; the comm wire is to the control system and pump and salt cell were/ are wired for constant 240v
What can I do when my "more" button is non-responsive? It's stuck on an output of "59"
It sounds like your membrane pad is bad. Contact your installer and they should be able to get you fixed up.
@@ChlorineKingPoolService thanks for the reply! that call was next on my list but wanted to see if anyone had ventured below the screen to fix it.
You’re very welcome. I don’t think that’s something that can be swapped.
Whats better the Intellichlor or the Ichlor. I'm hearing bad reviews of the Ichlor not lasting or flowing properly with variable speed pumps.
I do like the iChlor better as the settings and menus are much easier for the end user to use. They have had a flow switch issue but they have supposedly fixed that. They work great with variable speed pumps. The only time I’ve seen issues with the iChlor is due to the flow switch.
What is the calm wire? Where do I hook it up to on the pump. I'm doing the install now.
The comm wire is what allows the pump to communicate with the salt system, or vice versa.
Hey boss thanks for the vid quick question if I have a Variable Speed Superflo and installing this iChlor, does the comm wire work like it does with the intelliflo? There is the connector entry port on the side of the pump for the comm wire
Thanks for watching. Yes it does! Same exact thing. So you run the comm wire like I did from the pump drive to the inside of the salt power center box and hook it up to the 4 pin connector. That will allow the pump to talk with the salt system and ensure that chlorine is not made unless the pump is on and moving water. It’s a great safety feature. Have a great day.
@@ChlorineKingPoolService Thanks a million!
You’re welcome!
How to clean up this cell? Is it secret?
I will be cleaning this very cell tomorrow. I'll video it and send you a link!
Here you go! ruclips.net/video/hKas44cI3-Q/видео.html
Best video on the topic.
Thanks Myles! I'm glad to help out. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask!
So you can just install this in any pool then? We just have a play pool around 12/13000 gallons. What’s the benefits & downfalls from converting? And what system do you recommend for the type of pool I have?
Thanks
Yes you should be able to install it as long as you have bonding, timer box and pvc plumbing. I’d choose either Pentair or Jandy personally.