Replacing the Flow Temperature Sensor in the Pentair iChlor 30 Salt Chlorine Generator
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- The Pentair iChlor 30 salt chlorine generator, part of the swimming pool equipment, was acting up; lights flashing all the time demanding salt, more salt! Something wasn't right. The troubleshooting section of the User's Guide indicated a malfunction on the temperature sensor and to replace the flow switch/temperature sensor. I checked and the temperature readout varied from ---F to 99F. The actual temperature was in the mid sixties.
I googled and ordered a new switch. Replacing it was quite easy but there was an issue with properly seating the switch and keeping the arrows pointing in the direction of flow. However, adding a few more winds of PTFE tape cured that.
Next up was an issue with the wiring - the unit has three wires and the switch had four! It didn't take long to sort that out and a wiring diagram is included in this video. A straightforward change of the flow switch/temperature sensor should only take twenty to thirty minutes from start to finish.
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Do you have a link as to where you ordered the replacement parts ? Great video !
Thanks for the compliment, Robert. The switches are available from a lot of retailers and I bought mine from the Pool Supply Guy, poolguysupply.com/products/fs-p?_pos=1&_sid=dacec8e90&_ss=r. They offered a good price and fast service.
The link shows a intelichlor sensor does that work for ichlor as well ?
Very nice vidéo. However I replaced it and still have the exact same issue. Sometimes 3 lights are green, sometimes the flow is solid Red. I did not put arrow at 90 degrees exactly maybe 60 degrees. But the issue remains if flow is 1500prm, 2000 and 2500. The store told me to clean the cell but the pool guy told me it's useless to do that. The LCD scren broke for the second time. I just think Pentair provides very bad quality product and corporate hang up on me qhen I explained the issue.
I think the arrow line-up/flow does matter but that is not to say other things aren't going on too. Rather than continue with the frustration do you think it may be worth asking "the pool guy" to do a diagnosis? Just a thought you understand, Louis. If that isn't a good option then maybe work through the troubleshooting areas of the manuals and guides that you have for your pool and equipment. Thanks for adding your comment and, please, come back and share your findings/solutions.
Pool guys don't speak unless they let the dog(s) out while we're doing a repair. You got pool guy hands😂. Where you get those wire crimp connectors Daddy like those. Perfect video no yapping 👍 Gotta do exactly that next week, Thanks Dude
Thanks, man. The connector family is the Ideal In-Sure range, I got these at Home Depot. Have fun with your project next week, Gidim and look out for the dogs!
@@PicRic ok got a home Depot close by I'm going to go over today. Hope you have a good Fall👍 For dogs I'm carrying the weapons of treat 😆. Customers say if they don't let the dogs out they tear up the door frames 😆 Those are my buddies.
@@GidimNaka The 3 x wire connectors used have red buttons, they also have 2 x wire orange buttons and so on. They hold up well as long as the initial clamp on the button is square on and positively clicks into place. Cool!
@@PicRic Thanks for your help and keep making these vids. Pool guys like myself appreciate it. Never stop learning in this business 😆👍
Yeah, so I am learning; where is your Channel? Are you sharing too?
Uh, the guy wraps the tape onto the threads in the WRONG direction! He's also using the WRONG part. It should only have three wires. But other than that...
Well spotted, MarkTubeG. The old style switch was no longer available, the new four wire switch sensor works just as well. Details on how to wire it are shown at 4:25. The tape issue was rectified immediately I just didn't film it. Thanks for watching and commenting. Visit my channel for many more videos to critique.
Why don’t you speak?
Just been through all that haven't we, phil? As yet your argument is a bit less than compelling. So, fixed your pool temperature issues? Was this lil' vid any help to you?
Hi, the led configuration shows in second 00:50 i mean de salt sensor blinking green and red, de cell out and de flow led red? I have the old ichlore without display, actually is providing chlorine but normally all the leds were green, do you think that’s a flow sensor problem too?
I'm not familiar with the 'old ichlore without display' but - if the units are similar - it might be a salt volume issue or, maybe the sensor. Can you check the troubleshooting section of the User's Guide?
Why don’t you speak?
Do I need to?
Appreciate the absence of 'Talking Heads" in favor of a few more angles for the tricky bits including close ups.
Maybe you have a situation? If you can't find my take in the film or in the accompanying Description then I likely didn't encounter it.
Have a different issue?
How can I help, phil?
@@PicRic try speaking
@@philipjc1 I really don't see how that would help you? Pls elaborate on your reason, phil?
thanks for sharing! i had the four wires / 3 wires problem and you showed me the way.
Pleased I could help, Mark. Like and subscribe for many more how to and review videos
Greetings - Just bought your part, and discovered that the mine appears to be working fine, and the leak I was hoping to address is coming from BENEATH the black plastic “ear” that the sensor threads into. That is of course below the flange that Pentairre has marked “DO NOT REMOVE”. Can this unit be successfully disassembled and resealed?
I'm afraid I can't help as I have not had that problem or sought a solution to it, Nils. The video describes how I did a bit of internet research when I discovered the sensor "was acting up" and then sought to implement the fix. Maybe you can do something similar and let us all know the answer. Good luck!
Very helpful. Thanks for posting.
Happy to help!
Thanks, great video! Have you had an Ichlor where output display goes completely out ?
Thank you! No but back in '22, during my research, I think I came across it possibly being the same issue.
@@PicRic thanks for reply, have opted to replace cell. Thanks
Great! I hope that fixes it for you. Thanks for sharing.
Hi, I just replaced the flow switch and the flow light doesnt turn on at all. I've replaced it twice now thinking that I got a defective sensor but it is still doing the same thing. Any ideas?
Hi, Ariel. don't recall having this issue but, starting with the obvious; is there a good and proper water flow? A quick google also suggests, in certain circumstances, a fuse issue, a salt issue ... The trouble shooting section of the user manual is a good place to start. It will be interesting to see what is causing the problem, will you come back and share your solution?
@@PicRic I've followed the trouble shooting steps and confirmed proper flow. I'll contact Pentair to see if there is anything else that I should look for and post the outcome here. Thanks for the input!
@@MovingOnUpPodcast Sounds good. Looking forward to your next post. Good luck!
Your wirenuts are three port?
They are what I had available ... They worked. Are you doing a replacement too?
@@PicRici am and it came with the two port connectors. Mine leaks like a siv. And I cant find any three port that are waterproof. Just dry type wagu. Any suggestions if I just have 2 ports?
I havent snipped anything yet. I just wanna be prepared is all
And what gauge are they please
Ive been empty8ng a pot of the pool water three times an hour and dumplings it back in the pool. 🤬
@@screwballsquirrel4473 Have you checked what the current replacement switches have? You may only need two port connectors. My replacement was complicated by the arrival of the four wire switch - details are all in this video - as is the revised wiring diagram I used. The fastener gauge is 26-19 AWG - Seek out IDEAL 85-925 www.google.com/search?q=IDEAL+85-925&rlz=1C1CHZL_enUS750US750&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 but again, what you have may be different now.
Wow you really went for it
Eh?