How To Remove RUSTED, ROUNDED, STRIPPED BOLTS And NUTS!! (Bolt Extractor And Breaker Bar...2 TESTS!)
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- Опубликовано: 20 май 2023
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How To Remove RUSTED, ROUNDED, STRIPPED BOLTS And NUTS!! (Bolt Extractor And Breaker Bar Method)
Removing rusted, stripped or deformed bolts and nuts can be extremely difficult. Metal fatigue sets in, and bolts and nuts lose their shape an integrity. This short video from The Honest Carpenter will show you a simple set of tools that can help extract nearly any nut or bolt!
BOLT EXTRACTORS are unique sockets that are meant to bite into metal as they counter-rotate (in a loosening, counter-clockwise direction).
THINKPRO sent me their 17-pc. set to test.
These bits have scalloped, spiral-shaped inner walls. They're also made from high-tempered chrome-molybdenum steel. Their construction allows them to really clamp down on the FLATS of a nut or bolt, and create grip.
By using a BREAKER BAR (often 1/2") as the leverage tool for your bolt extractor, instead of a typical ratchet or torque wrench, you can create the leverage you need to break rusted bolts loose.
These kits also often come with a short bar--this is for knocking the extracted bolt or nut out of the socket bit.
Thanks for watching!
The Honest Carpenter 
Хобби
I usually squirt some rust blaster the day before and with my sears extractor I use it on my 1/2” impact gun never lets me down 😊
That's how I'd do it unless I thought that the bold head(s) could shear off.
You would never see this level of helpful instruction even from the manufacturer. Well done Ethan. I appreciate all you do.
🙏🙏
@TheHonestCarpenter lovely
Project Farm did a video on this years ago, and his results indicate that the best solution, defeating all extraction tools and penetrating oils, was simply heating the fastener with a torch. The difference in heat expansion between the bolt and the surrounding metal causes the surfaces to naturally separate.
I had a mounting bolt on an alternator not want to come off, penetrating oil (liquid wrench, PB Blaster) didn't help. Breaker bar with pipe extension didn't get it. Brother with stronger muscles didn't get it. Torch heating did get it.
Hey Ethan, those sockets look like they work well.
A safety hint for you - Do NOT use the heel of your palm to hit the breaker bar.
Once you damage the sleeve that surrounds the nerves that go through your wrists, they can't be repaired.
I always use a hammer or mallet to hit the bar
Hey is that Micheal Douglas... falling down
Btw good tip
I love that movie
Good movie!
Like others have suggested, I would soak it with penetrant for several hours. Then try to loosen it
On exceeding difficult lug nuts I typically extend the breaker bar by sliding black pipe over the breaker bar. This produces a much longer lever arm.
Yes, I used a long "cheater pipe" to remove the nuts that holds the brake drums on our car. Couldn't have done it without it. It's really tough to get off.
Thanks Ethan. This is why I hate being a mechanic! But it certainly helps to have the right tool for the job.
That is a slick extractor tool set. I'd use a rubber or plastic mallet instead of a hammer with shop towels on it. I would also spray the bolts with penetrating oil and let them soak overnight or as long as you can. I used to use my foot to remove wheel lug nuts on my truck until I broke a bolt off one time (what a bummer that was). Now I use an impact wrench. Unless I was worried about the bolt breaking with a power tool, I would use an impact wrench. My impact wrench has never failed me.
Yep, I used my impact wrench to remove the bolts holding my lawnmower blades on. It took several seconds to come loose, but never really worried about breaking anything.
@@canebro1 The impact wrench is a great invention for sure. 👍
Always learn something from your videos Ethan even if it's not particularly something I am needing right there and then or will ever need in the future. . I love your calming tone and always positive instruction. Have a lovely week.
I would suggest Rust Blaster a day before and this tool may not be needed.
I never heard of rust blaster. I would usually use pb blaster or wd-40
Good to have you back with these videos Ethan. This was great.
Not much of a "trick" just use the right tools.😉
P B Blaster is also helpful.👍🏽
Ahhh, good to share my Sat evening with you again! Guess you had a friend/relative with old tires that gave you the practice bolts!
Shivering black bell thumbs up 😎
Lots of nice people let me poke around in old storage, Mary Beth! Thanks for watching!😁
I like using Kroil penetrating oil any time I am dealing with rust. A cheater bar for the breaker bar avoids any damage to the internals of your wrists etc. Love those sockets! Excellent presentation.😃
Great review! Thanks for sharing this socket set.
I've had a set of Irwin BoltGrips for years. Don't need 'em often, but when you do, they save the day! Also, it's refreshing to see someone use a breaker bar for its intended purpose - most people just seem to use ratchets for breaking stuff free these days that I've seen :-/
I work in the automotive field, and have had to use kits like that off and on. The kit will tell you if you look, NOT to use impact guns with the tool. Most of the time it will break the socket, or loose grip and round the nut or bolt off more
Excellent video, and appreciatethe link! Would the addition of lubricant help prevent breaking or snapping a rusted bolt? Thanks, Ethan, and have a great week.
Only if you leave it for long enough to penetrate and that's if it has a path to do so, what i do for old rusted stuff is put some penetrating oil on it leave it for like half an hour then give it a few good smacks with a hammer to break up the rust inside. If that doesn't work then i heat it up with the torch that's usually enough to get it out without snapping.
As "rusted" bolts go... those looked pretty good. A standard socket (6-point) would have don the same job on those bolts. However, on bolts that were in worse shape, those extractor sockets never worked well for me. I personally don't think they are worth the money in real-life situations.
Can't beat a big new nut and a welder.
Excellent, always nice videos, thank you very much for sharing
Thanks Ethan for the video.
Really great explanation of the tool and how to use it. I've used stud extractors to remove broken or stuck studs from cylinder heads or blocks usually, never the type of extractor that you are using. 👍
I honestly think it would be easier to remove your own back molars with a pair of pliers than to tap a broken stud.
They look llike a great idea. Ive had to hammer sockets onto studs so corroded the sides had pettled out with rust, these look made for the job. great video.
Great tool set.
Totally sturdy, Anthony 👍
Great kit they do the trick
I’ve got a similar set, pound on with a two pound sledge and impact!!! Sometimes heat first with oxy acetylene 👍
Thanks for the vid!
I spent most of my hobby mechanicing in the Mojave desert soooo "what rust?". Now it's in Cook County, Illinois! I need all the tricks! Air hammer, impact wrench, great source!
Union Steamfitter here. At work we say "never use your hand as a hammer" , so please be careful there. There must be a better way to concuss the bar . Maybe a dead blow hammer would have been a better choice. I used a deadblow hammer to chisel the corner notches on my log house and it makes the work very easy on the wrist. I never heard of those sockets , they seem great. Peace. Thanks for the video.
I think I'd try slipping a long piece of steel pipe over the breaker bar handle as a cheater bar, at least to break the hold initially. I've never used a dead blow hammer but worth checking out!
I didn't even know these existed! thanks
I have never seen sockets like thank you for the share. Ray
awesome tool set. but you can use heat to remove them also
True
Thanks for the tips. I wasn't aware there are bolt extractor.
Those bolt seems to be in good enough condition. I would use Manual Impact Driver instead. It works wonders in these situation and it will not damage the bolts.
excellent thank you
I also think people should be aware that if you don't have room to use a hammer to tap in the bolt extractor to get a tight fit on the problematic bolt head, you're going to have problems. Like the situation I have trying to remove a brake caliper mounting bracket bolt. No room to swing that hammer to get that bolt extractor on there. If you're using it on the outside of a wheel like you're doing in the video it's a different story. Plenty of room to swing that hammer. But it's still a very good video. Detailed and thorough.
Excellent content!! Great visual angle and explanation. Thanks!
Gas torch works the best, I fixed water pumps professionally and managed to loosen everything with heat
As usual, great video on how to properly use extractors. However, I'd be a bit concerned with using my palm to bang away on the breaker bar the way you did. Was there a reason you didn't use a pipe on the breaker bar as an extension for leverage? Would doing so possibly take away the feel of a bolt head snapping off?
An old man told me long ago to never beat on your tools, whether by “percussive force” or a hammer. Just extend the leverage of the breaker bar by slipping a socket (with an extension) over the handle. I’ve found a steady upward force works best. Liquid wrench helps, and heat as a last resort.
🙋♂️THANKS ETHAN, FOR SHARING THIS WITH US…GREAT TO HAVE TOOLS FOR THE JOB 👍
I actually used this method back in the day and I used an iron pipe and PB BLASTER to assist me 😅💚💚💚
Ethan? that's William Zabka.
Liquid Wrench is good, but I don't see it around anymore, so I use PB Blaster too.
Always mesmerized by your videos! Wish this would work on my chainsaw!!!
Thanks for another great video.
The best DIY carpentry content I’ve watched so far!!! BTW I sent a message to your email and I hope you can have time to read it, God bless, and keep being an honest carpenter ☺☺☺
Just thought you might like to know. I ordered from your link the 32 piece THINKPRO set and received a 32 piece THINKWORK set . The Thinkpro is 1/2 drive and the Thinkwork set is 3/8 drive. Don’t know if Amazon is pulling a bait and switch or if it was a mistake. Tried calling customer service but could only chat with a bot. I am sending this back and replacing with the THINKPRO set however it won’t be thru the link. Amazon basically told me that was the problem.
I don't think using paper towels on the hammer is the same as a deadblow, but I ordered the extractor set.
Lost my dead blow, Joe. 😅 it’s a good set though!
Hey Ethan. Why not PB Blaster or some other penetrant? Might make the job easier.
Also, how did you apply torque, whacking the breaker bar, without breaking the lug? That’s a pretty easy thing to fall into, and don’t ask me how I know this.
Impact would be better. It has mini ticking impacts to loosen the rust and eventually loosening the bolt.
Breaker bar can snap the head off a bolt.
As a volunteer for a organization called CHAVERIM. Appling heat from a torch before starting to losen the log nut it will help alot
Cool
You know you’re finally an adult when after dogging those rustyassed bolts off, you can open a drawer and find some brand spanking new replacements, because you bought them “just in case.”
😆
Well check carefully if the strength class match. Like for metric 8.8, 10.9 and 12.9. When in doubt buy the original from the car dealer.
@@SE45CX Well said. As I like to say, "Spec's matter."
@@SE45CX Did you even watch this video?
Take my money.😍
Why not add penetrating oil to additional help?
Aka turbo sockets
Dam where in the hell did n NC did you find a barn with some really old tractors and hay wagons. Lol
Useful tool, but I’d still soak those in a 50/50 solution of acetone and automatic gearbox fluid for an hour or two.
On something super rusty I attack it from multiple fronts. I would use a bolt biter, but I would also use penetrating oil and a heat gun.
What about using wd40 or something like that also
the fact that you could just smack the (relatively short) breaker bar and the bolt came loose shows it could easily have been removed with normal tools lol
no wd40?
I would think a lubricant on those threads could help with removal.
Impact wrench
Can’t control the torque as much, chip
Love your content but I’d stick to carpentry. 😊
1/2 square drive isn't a bit Lmfao 😂😂
❤❤❤💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻.
What? No penetrating oil? No heat?
👏👏👏❤❤❤❤
UNfortunately I've got a rusted nut on my fuel filter, not a rusted bolt. I used all my muscle power and cannot get it off.
Cut one corner of the nut off next to the thread with a Dremel and disc.
Hahah... As I mentioned in an earlier comment on one of your other videos... mechanics in the "third world" tend to be poor... so, they need way more "hacks" to function, than you guys do!
In my country, I don't think ANY mechanic has even *heard* of a tool such as a "bolt extractor"... so, what we do here is groove-out notches - *EXACTLY* like the ones seen on your video @ 7.06 - with a metal chisel - all around the shoulder of the head of the bolt that is stuck... then we use a screwdriver, to patiently, and repeatedly, work around the head - forcing it to rotate by sheer hammer-thrust! 😆
Hey Ethan, nice video, just one thing. In test 2 you extracted a nut not a bolt ( you know someone had to bring this up, right?) 😃
Saw this coming, Gary. Taking without a script is hard sometimes 😆
Your hand is not a hammer, it only takes 2.5lbs of pressure to break your hand. Safety First
ummmmm, in reality If you can get something like that loose without real force, you most likely wouldn’t have needed to use the extractor. Not trying to be rude honestly. But you probably couldn’t put a crescent wrench on that and gotten that off lol.
you really think that paper towels making a difference
#sellout
as much as i like tools, this one would be my last choice. if the nuts or bolts are really stucked, they make them useless and this might lead to a real problem.
i would prefer, especialy in the second example, clean the threads with a brush, heat it up, use a blaster (NOT WD40, - this is primary water displacement, formula 40 .--- wd40), tight it up a little more, and than jiggle the bolt tight and loose using more blaster
have fun
So.. an ad for think pro. Ok.
Why not spray some WD 40 it will come like a baby
You can slick your bolt too though, and cut down on grip power 😬
@@TheHonestCarpenter ok sir
WD40 is overhyped in situations like this.
@@monkeygraborange Yes you'll need penetrating fluid for that.
@@TheHonestCarpenter You wanna go with the pro: something like liquid wrench or pb blaster. They're specifically designed to break the corrosion bond . Soaked over night is best, so it can really get in there and do the trick. I've removed nuts and bolts that were impossible to get off otherwise. I like Liquid Wrench the best, but pb blaster is good too.
I actually have a tool called The Super Socket (Everyone's probably seen the commercial on RUclips by now) and it's helped get Hard & Rusted Bolts off, but sometimes it's hit or miss & I'll have to try something else. 🔩🔧👷🏿
I’ll check it out, W!
That thing is a garbage, don't even bother