FINALLY. Someone else that feels this way. I have been told that I am insane for thinking THIS is the way to gauge depth of nut slots. To ME it just makes sense. Yes you have to be careful to NOT go too far... I get that. But, to me, THIS is the whole purpose of setting the depth..... to counter the "sharpness" that happens when you fret the "cowboy chords".
You can go lower than that. I go to 0.01 on high strings and take it higher at the low strings, especially starting at the G string. We don't use imperial in the UK anymore so a safe zone in metric for me is 0.3mm to 0.4mm but I go lower, often from 0.2 to 0.3. On a few guitars that can be dicey but once you reduce it to this level, the playability is massively improved and no fret buzz. Possibly if you use very low action it might go wrong but really it shouldn't. I will say though that fine tuning it to his degree is very intricate. Go too far and you're screwed. Also, this depends on having a very precise curve on the neck by adjusting the truss rod just right.
Greetings sir 😊why dont you blow away the nut file filings? Wont the filings possibly keep the strings raised on the packed filings? Thanks for the video 👍
You're welcome! Good point. I rely on the file clearing out most of the debris but... you're absolutely right, the leftovers can pollute the interpretation of the end result. With a little experience you get a sense of how much you can get away with. The only way to know is to try, fail, learn and make better decisions.
unfortunately it works nice for experienced people, but as a beginner+ it really hard to understand :( So for the first years its better to use some static and good method for measurement, instead of getting wrong feeling But ok, I got a lot of nuts to try everyhing out... :D I've got only one important question so far - If I trying to adjust: Nut, Truss Rod and Saddle. What is algorithm to check where is the bad point at those 3 points if I pick the string to strong and it start doint buzz or like a "kick", dont know how to explain it, buzz hapens when it hits the Fret multiple times while vibrating, but a string kick happens only once and then the string keeps vibrating, but with much less energy. Which is exactly the issue, which I want to adjust on my plaing style.
My advice would be to at least try. Even using a static method, you still need to get a feel for cutting nut slots. Once you get it, you get it. As for an "algorithm", I think of it like this: the nut when cut reasonabley well, is a essentially a fixed point whereas relief and saddle height have more flexibility and influence. Overall, the least amount of buzz will depend on a fine balance between relief and saddle height.
Always check neck relief first. That should be the starting point no matter what. Then check for uneven frets with a fret rocker. Then saddles then nut. That's the way I've done it and it works good for me. Everyone is different though!
I cut my nut slots according to whether they are extremely sharp when fretted on the 2nd fret. I always shoot for just a hair sharp.
As long as it works it's all good.
FINALLY. Someone else that feels this way. I have been told that I am insane for thinking THIS is the way to gauge depth of nut slots. To ME it just makes sense. Yes you have to be careful to NOT go too far... I get that. But, to me, THIS is the whole purpose of setting the depth..... to counter the "sharpness" that happens when you fret the "cowboy chords".
@@robertruth3281 Yep! Just takes the will to try and gain some experience.
@@guitar-niche I have done more work since then and have to say I am getting a little better at judging! Thanks.
Dear sir. Can this method be used for bass guitar as well?
Certainly! Some commenters have confirmed.
@@guitar-niche Thanks sir.
.018 ar first fret is nice to follow, not too high not too low
You can go lower than that. I go to 0.01 on high strings and take it higher at the low strings, especially starting at the G string. We don't use imperial in the UK anymore so a safe zone in metric for me is 0.3mm to 0.4mm but I go lower, often from 0.2 to 0.3. On a few guitars that can be dicey but once you reduce it to this level, the playability is massively improved and no fret buzz. Possibly if you use very low action it might go wrong but really it shouldn't. I will say though that fine tuning it to his degree is very intricate. Go too far and you're screwed. Also, this depends on having a very precise curve on the neck by adjusting the truss rod just right.
Greetings sir 😊why dont you blow away the nut file filings? Wont the filings possibly keep the strings raised on the packed filings? Thanks for the video 👍
You're welcome! Good point. I rely on the file clearing out most of the debris but... you're absolutely right, the leftovers can pollute the interpretation of the end result. With a little experience you get a sense of how much you can get away with. The only way to know is to try, fail, learn and make better decisions.
If you have put a new set of strings on, it is very important to go a bit high at first because the string will not have settled into the bend.
Eyeball it. got it.
Great! I'm glad you understand the concept of using visual cues.
how to explain how i dont know what im doing, just eyeball it and freak it😅
unfortunately it works nice for experienced people, but as a beginner+ it really hard to understand :( So for the first years its better to use some static and good method for measurement, instead of getting wrong feeling
But ok, I got a lot of nuts to try everyhing out... :D
I've got only one important question so far - If I trying to adjust: Nut, Truss Rod and Saddle. What is algorithm to check where is the bad point at those 3 points if I pick the string to strong and it start doint buzz or like a "kick", dont know how to explain it, buzz hapens when it hits the Fret multiple times while vibrating, but a string kick happens only once and then the string keeps vibrating, but with much less energy. Which is exactly the issue, which I want to adjust on my plaing style.
My advice would be to at least try. Even using a static method, you still need to get a feel for cutting nut slots. Once you get it, you get it.
As for an "algorithm", I think of it like this: the nut when cut reasonabley well, is a essentially a fixed point whereas relief and saddle height have more flexibility and influence. Overall, the least amount of buzz will depend on a fine balance between relief and saddle height.
Always check neck relief first. That should be the starting point no matter what. Then check for uneven frets with a fret rocker. Then saddles then nut. That's the way I've done it and it works good for me. Everyone is different though!
What