The best example of how NOT to cut a guitar nut I have ever seen. Had your eyes checked lately? Nothing in this video comes close to perfection- this is called chaos.
FINALLY. Someone else that feels this way. I have been told that I am insane for thinking THIS is the way to gauge depth of nut slots. To ME it just makes sense. Yes you have to be careful to NOT go too far... I get that. But, to me, THIS is the whole purpose of setting the depth..... to counter the "sharpness" that happens when you fret the "cowboy chords".
I just use the music city bridge joe glaser nut slot gauge. It eliminates the bridge height from the equation, works perfectly and accurately. Better than all the other methods I've used in the past.
Greetings sir 😊why dont you blow away the nut file filings? Wont the filings possibly keep the strings raised on the packed filings? Thanks for the video 👍
You're welcome! Good point. I rely on the file clearing out most of the debris but... you're absolutely right, the leftovers can pollute the interpretation of the end result. With a little experience you get a sense of how much you can get away with. The only way to know is to try, fail, learn and make better decisions.
Hello @8:16 if i file it to make the string closer to the fret do we get a buzz or not? some people say that just press the 3rd fret and when the string is almost closer to the fret then thats perfect nut height. I really did that advice but still i kinda want to file it more closer to the fret without pressing the 3rd string because the first fret kinda hard to press. Pls help me.
First, you MUST make sure your relief is set correctly to make sure your cuts will be at the right height. In fact you could over-straighten the neck just a touch to allow a little buffer in case you cut a bit too deep. Otherwise you can get very tight with the first string using the techniques described. A video on this specific area (the first string height) will be published in the near future.
You Are alright About Everything you have Said I knotted That Playing On First Fert The Cutting Thrugh My First Fingue And I Need To Cut The Slots On The Nut To Get That Nice Doft Feel Good Feel 👍🏽 🤪 Thinks For Your Knowledge On This Matter Let's Me Know I wasn't Crazy 😊
You can go lower than that. I go to 0.01 on high strings and take it higher at the low strings, especially starting at the G string. We don't use imperial in the UK anymore so a safe zone in metric for me is 0.3mm to 0.4mm but I go lower, often from 0.2 to 0.3. On a few guitars that can be dicey but once you reduce it to this level, the playability is massively improved and no fret buzz. Possibly if you use very low action it might go wrong but really it shouldn't. I will say though that fine tuning it to his degree is very intricate. Go too far and you're screwed. Also, this depends on having a very precise curve on the neck by adjusting the truss rod just right.
unfortunately it works nice for experienced people, but as a beginner+ it really hard to understand :( So for the first years its better to use some static and good method for measurement, instead of getting wrong feeling But ok, I got a lot of nuts to try everyhing out... :D I've got only one important question so far - If I trying to adjust: Nut, Truss Rod and Saddle. What is algorithm to check where is the bad point at those 3 points if I pick the string to strong and it start doint buzz or like a "kick", dont know how to explain it, buzz hapens when it hits the Fret multiple times while vibrating, but a string kick happens only once and then the string keeps vibrating, but with much less energy. Which is exactly the issue, which I want to adjust on my plaing style.
My advice would be to at least try. Even using a static method, you still need to get a feel for cutting nut slots. Once you get it, you get it. As for an "algorithm", I think of it like this: the nut when cut reasonabley well, is a essentially a fixed point whereas relief and saddle height have more flexibility and influence. Overall, the least amount of buzz will depend on a fine balance between relief and saddle height.
Always check neck relief first. That should be the starting point no matter what. Then check for uneven frets with a fret rocker. Then saddles then nut. That's the way I've done it and it works good for me. Everyone is different though!
The best example of how NOT to cut a guitar nut I have ever seen. Had your eyes checked lately? Nothing in this video comes close to perfection- this is called chaos.
Thanks! Next...
I cut my nut slots according to whether they are extremely sharp when fretted on the 2nd fret. I always shoot for just a hair sharp.
As long as it works it's all good.
FINALLY. Someone else that feels this way. I have been told that I am insane for thinking THIS is the way to gauge depth of nut slots. To ME it just makes sense. Yes you have to be careful to NOT go too far... I get that. But, to me, THIS is the whole purpose of setting the depth..... to counter the "sharpness" that happens when you fret the "cowboy chords".
@@robertruth3281 Yep! Just takes the will to try and gain some experience.
@@guitar-niche I have done more work since then and have to say I am getting a little better at judging! Thanks.
I just use the music city bridge joe glaser nut slot gauge. It eliminates the bridge height from the equation, works perfectly and accurately. Better than all the other methods I've used in the past.
If it works for you, great!
Greetings sir 😊why dont you blow away the nut file filings? Wont the filings possibly keep the strings raised on the packed filings? Thanks for the video 👍
You're welcome! Good point. I rely on the file clearing out most of the debris but... you're absolutely right, the leftovers can pollute the interpretation of the end result. With a little experience you get a sense of how much you can get away with. The only way to know is to try, fail, learn and make better decisions.
If you have put a new set of strings on, it is very important to go a bit high at first because the string will not have settled into the bend.
Hello @8:16 if i file it to make the string closer to the fret do we get a buzz or not? some people say that just press the 3rd fret and when the string is almost closer to the fret then thats perfect nut height. I really did that advice but still i kinda want to file it more closer to the fret without pressing the 3rd string because the first fret kinda hard to press. Pls help me.
First, you MUST make sure your relief is set correctly to make sure your cuts will be at the right height. In fact you could over-straighten the neck just a touch to allow a little buffer in case you cut a bit too deep. Otherwise you can get very tight with the first string using the techniques described. A video on this specific area (the first string height) will be published in the near future.
Dear sir. Can this method be used for bass guitar as well?
Certainly! Some commenters have confirmed.
@@guitar-niche Thanks sir.
You Are alright About Everything you have Said I knotted That Playing On First Fert The Cutting Thrugh My First Fingue And I Need To Cut The Slots On The Nut To Get That Nice Doft Feel Good Feel 👍🏽 🤪 Thinks For Your Knowledge On This Matter Let's Me Know I wasn't Crazy 😊
You're welcome!
65 tele. 71/4 radius. Use .018 slot with three or four extra sweeps. When using 09s it’s “Buke” slinky. Same as it was in 69.
how to explain how i dont know what im doing, just eyeball it and freak it😅
I'd agree with you but then we'd both be wrong.
.018 ar first fret is nice to follow, not too high not too low
You can go lower than that. I go to 0.01 on high strings and take it higher at the low strings, especially starting at the G string. We don't use imperial in the UK anymore so a safe zone in metric for me is 0.3mm to 0.4mm but I go lower, often from 0.2 to 0.3. On a few guitars that can be dicey but once you reduce it to this level, the playability is massively improved and no fret buzz. Possibly if you use very low action it might go wrong but really it shouldn't. I will say though that fine tuning it to his degree is very intricate. Go too far and you're screwed. Also, this depends on having a very precise curve on the neck by adjusting the truss rod just right.
unfortunately it works nice for experienced people, but as a beginner+ it really hard to understand :( So for the first years its better to use some static and good method for measurement, instead of getting wrong feeling
But ok, I got a lot of nuts to try everyhing out... :D
I've got only one important question so far - If I trying to adjust: Nut, Truss Rod and Saddle. What is algorithm to check where is the bad point at those 3 points if I pick the string to strong and it start doint buzz or like a "kick", dont know how to explain it, buzz hapens when it hits the Fret multiple times while vibrating, but a string kick happens only once and then the string keeps vibrating, but with much less energy. Which is exactly the issue, which I want to adjust on my plaing style.
My advice would be to at least try. Even using a static method, you still need to get a feel for cutting nut slots. Once you get it, you get it.
As for an "algorithm", I think of it like this: the nut when cut reasonabley well, is a essentially a fixed point whereas relief and saddle height have more flexibility and influence. Overall, the least amount of buzz will depend on a fine balance between relief and saddle height.
Always check neck relief first. That should be the starting point no matter what. Then check for uneven frets with a fret rocker. Then saddles then nut. That's the way I've done it and it works good for me. Everyone is different though!
Eyeball it. got it.
Great! I'm glad you understand the concept of using visual cues.
A lot of unnecessary talking.
A lot of unnecessary typing...
What
If you draw a tiny face on your forfinger we can pretend it's your finger thats talking
Remix!
?
Omg. Had to listen to so much talking to find out this is not a method I like .