no doubt, the sustain improves, as do the mid tones. So good to see real musicians, real craftsmen, giving us ways to improve tone and not a dime to be made. Just giving help. You guys ROCK!
Yes, I noticed a slight increase in the sustain as well. But my Yammy A3R has a good sustain anyway, with old strings (which very soon need to be replaced), and will have a factory sustain properly when I do change them. I won't bother changing bridgewise just yet. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Bought my A3R in 2014, and it's sounding better as it gets older. I use Elixirs 11's sets.
@@johnperkins2174 Buddy, you've got the two mixed up. Go back and listen very carefully with GOOD headphones: The slotted bridge with solid pins is the one that has sweeter, richer, deeper mids especially, while the slotted pins on a flat bridge sounds tighter & tinnier. Seriously Bro, check it out again.
@@brianmorris8045 To each his own, and no disrespect meant, but for me, I absolutely hate the Elixir's. The only thing they're good for is quieting string squeek when sliding fingers up or down the fingerboard. The "nano webbing" of Elixir's also traps & holds too much oil & dirt, causing them to go dead about as quickly as any cheap string. And when performing a song that requires a heavier attack, even the heavier gauges of Elixir's play like rubber bands, and break too easily. Have you ever tried Martin Marquis acoustic strings? They are available in regular bronze and phosphor bronze. ( Some acoustic guitars sound better with the mellower phosphor bronze strings. ) I'm going on 62 yrs old, and gigged professionally for decades. Retired from the music scene in '02. I've owned more than several killer acoustic guitars over the years, amps, PA's, etc, and I've tried every acoustic string under the sun. At any given time, I used 3 acoustic guitars with each tuned differently for each show. When the Elixir's first came out in the early 90's & were all the rage, I was lucky if I could go a full show on my main guitar without breaking a string, and I used new strings for EVERY show, I kid you not. Of course I would give them a decent "break-in" before each show, because brand new strings are too bright. They start sounding better after they soak up the oils from your hands. This is true for ALL strings. The Martin Marquis ended my search for the best tone, resonance, playability, and durability.......hands down. I used .12's on all of my acoustics. They're priced a little higher than the average string sets, but not as much as the Elixir's. At least they were back in my gigging days. If ya haven't tried them yet, give em a shot. I'm confident you'll be surprised. Every acoustic guitarist I ever turned on to them, loved them......just as someone turned me on to them. They're NOT the regular "Martin strings".......make sure the label says Martin MARQUIS. I also recall reading about quite a few big time artists loving them as well. It stands to reason. Take care Brother.
I started slotting bridges and using unslotted bridge pins after seeing your video about a year ago. The improvement across all brands is remarkable and has brought great reactions from my customers. Thanks, and keep making your great videos.
With the automation that goes on these days it seems crazy that these guitar companies can’t automate some of the set features so that the time is cut down on small details like like this.
I’m 69 and I could hear the difference and I believe it definitely improved the sound so I will be trying this on my guitars. Thank you for taking the time to share this.
I could definately hear the difference. Factory- more twangy when strings were initially struck After mod- more warm and even blend of strings when strumming chords. I like it! Thank you.
The most obvious improvement to me is the richness of the cords. The factory guitar sounded flat and lifeless…after the modification again rich and full NOT dull like in need of a string change. Loved it!! Great video.😊
There is a muted tone in the factory version that I don't like, and I think I would not have noticed it were it not for the comparison. The slotted bridge breathes and has and openness not to mention sustain. It's a sound I have attempted to find by using certain types of strings. Thank you for this!
I've done this to two guitars - inspired by your original video - a 1999 Larrivee Parlor and a recent Martin DSS-17. The difference is subtle, but noticeable. Both guitars sound a little fuller, more resonant, just a little more focused and together, with more sustain. They were both great guitars before, but this is absolutely an improvement.
That's awesome to hear. I have a Martin DSS-17 I'm about to do this too tonight and what you are describing in the difference of tone and sustain is exactly what I'm hoping to accomplish by doing this to mine.
Hmmm....while the bridge angle makes some sense, maybe I'd have to listen to this with full studio headphones instead of just earbuds (if so i will update) but for now I'd have to say I only hear a very subtle difference (and differences vary low thru high). Some tones I found slightly better, some I found worse. Overall, I can't say it sounds better. To be fair, some of the tonal difference could just as easily be attributed to a slightly different string strike. If anything, I'd give a slight preference to pre-mod. As for sustain, I'm not hearing better sustain on this recording (maybe real ambient is different?). Thanks for sharing.
I hear a difference in tone , but not sure it's better. I also wonder about the pressure that sharper angle has in pushing the saddle in its slot forward towards the soundhole instead of more downward into the slot.
I consider myself a novice and relatively new at learning guitar and even I could hear a difference. Sounded crisper, livelier and with distinctively more sustain. I’d be terrified to modify my guitar but then again, haven’t seen your “How to” video yet. Awesome video.
As a very experienced player of many years, your perception is crystal clear. You can find YT vids on the subject of doing the work, I'd bet. I'm no great craftsman, but I could do it with some study and the right tools. The trick is knowing how much & when and where to stop. I'll never bother, because when I play out, I'm either on an electric or electro-acoustic. Unnecessary on the former and not really that useful on a E/A driving an amp in a club. Good ears, though. Straight ahead.
I go one step further and slip a ball end from an old string over each string before they go in the bridge. This gives a flat contact point on the bridge plate for better sound and also helps preserve the plate from gouges resulting from round ball ends.
I’ve been saving ball ends these days and now wonder if stacking as you mentioned would also increase direct contact with the pins? I’m putting a flat bevel on the unslotted side to keep the ball ends perpendicular. If the slot in plate and bridge is wide enough (tightly fitting with pin) the string will pull everything up tight.
@@johnmitchell1614 I have a Mitchell’s Plate Mate installed on my D28 and it pleasantly brightens the wound strings , but I’m ambivalent about the higher plain strings,sometimes switching to a cut version, savoring the sweetness of the rosewood bridge plate.
I agree but don’t you think the bass drops off just a little too? This could be ok for a dreadnought but not so much for the brighter body shapes. I’d be very cautious of doing this to my guitar… 😬
@@ravusursi893 Yeah, I thought the low end became kinda muddy, but the mid and high end improves. It becomes a better strumming guitar, but not a better single note guitar. So if you play fingerstyle like I do, you may not want to do this. (Especially if you don't use fingerpicks, because I can only imagine the top strings becoming even more muddy)
I've been a luther for over 40+ years and while I respect you wanting great tone, it's a disservice of your viewers not to let them know of the ramifications of doing this. One of the most common issues on bridges is excessive wear where the bridge pin holes are and the angle of the string, which DOES lead to intonation issues and cracking of the bridge. Sure, this happens over a length of time and it the reason why you do NOT see manufacturers doing this. Why would you want to rush and accelerate the process and integrity of your bridge?
I agree. My older guitars already have slots due to natural tension wear. If I had curved the slots from new I may have had to have a new bridge fitted today as they would have worn through to the saddle by now. Maybe? LoL.... Nah, personally I won't do it...
I'm more, way more, inclined to believe someone who has been making, tuning and loving guitars for 40 plus years over a guy that just wants better sound out of a cheap guitar at any cost. You can tune a Martin but you can't tuna fish.
I have only 25+ year of working with guitars, but I will chip in. There are pros and cons to both. The best thing would be that every acoustic made would have a good amount of wood in the bridge. I have glued many bridges because the forward pressure on the bone pushes and breaks the wood infront of the bridge, not so much the back. Also if the break angle is steep to begin with no need to mod, but they make them like they make them. Then again a weak sounding (scooped mids) acoustic can come alive if treated with slots, much better option than sitting in the corner gathering dust. Deal with the issues if they arise later. Every guitar needs maintenance, if you check the condition of things few times a year you can deal with issues when they are smaller. If the guitar has suppressed low frequencies, not much you can do to change that. 😂
I do agree, there is a slight change in tonality and increased sustain for the unslotted pin, but again I have to wonder to what degree that change is due to placement to recording. , but two things I quickly notice in the video comparison between factory vs unslotted pin. First might not be so obvious, but nonetheless will produce a variation in sound to the listener - the guitar is tilted back for the unslotted, and straight up and down for factory. The second is the placement of the sound hole in relation to the recording device. I understand the two are videoed at different times (before and after new slotting), however still nonetheless, the sound and placement of guitar in relation to the recording device might be minimal, yet does not represent a true controlled sound test. I would suggest a better test where the instrument is flat on the table and a microphone placed above it. Each time there is an exact placement and distance from recording device.
Totally agree. Nothing scientific about the testing method, at all. From here, sounds like the type of nuanced change in sound you get by changing pick or just playing differently. Also makes me cringe to see the bridge being "abused" like that :D
They should have at least used a stand for the guitar. However, he said he could definitely feel it. The feel of a guitar is important, even if it doesn't sound much different in a recording, because it could mean all the difference in inspiring you to play.
Well while I do agree on the angle of the guitar the mic placement is pretty much if not exactly the same. Only reason why it looks as if its not is because of the camera angle. If you look closely the "after" shot the camera was slightly more to the right hence it looks like the mic is placed different. The angle while it would change the sound slightly it would not have made that much of a difference
There was a qualitative difference! It was very clearly more than Mike placement... Like the resonance is themselves were married in the fundamental and didn't have to converge but were there from the start. That did not sound like technical differences to me. Not the main thing I was feeling/hearing anyway
The guitar tilt/angle to the microphone with the before is different (down more) than the before (up more). Observe the light reflection on the guitar. This subtle change in the guitar angle could be the difference in the sound we are hearing... I'm only playing the devils advocate here because it makes for a faulty/inaccurate test.
I didn't notice that but I know that small changes in mic position etc make very big differences. Even the sound of a room changes at different times, weather etc. Great spot!@@troybabs
I did this recently on my Maple jumbo after watching your other video, it absolutely works and has added so much resonance, especially in the mid to bass, I just reinstalled the bone pins I already had with the slot facing backwards as suggested, works a treat....imagine a Maple Jumbo with cavernous bass and actual midrange overtone, I'd been reasonably disappointed with the sound of it for so long and was going to sell it, no way would I sell it now 😅, thanks so much for these uploads 👍👍👍.
From what I hear, the mids are much more scooped (down), which is what acoustic guitarists seem to favor based on amplification scenarios, but the tuning stability seems also ever so slightly more delicate. It's a tough one, for sure. On your first demo chord, my first thought was "this Martin suddenly became a Collings." But after more samples, the difference seems to be much more nuanced.
For me it’s too bright and scooped with the solid pins compared to factory. I prefer factory pins in this scenario weirdly enough! Each guitar is different though.
I think it improved sustain and volume, but I notice a scoop in the high mids (around 4khz maybe) that is not so pleasant to me. It made it sound “cheap” (just a little bit, of course). But on the other hand the upper highs (8khz and above) are more audible, so I can hear the clarity getting better, which is nice. Thank you for the video, I'll check out more of them!
Im pretty sure that had more to do with variance in mic placement. A few mm can make a huge difference in proximity effect on a single mic, let alone an x/y stereo mic on a consumer grade recorder in an untreated room.
@@jcabanawSo you reckon the guy goes to all the effort of doing an A/B comparison on a guitar mod, only to mistakenly put the mic in a different place?
@@MisterWade74 You can see in the video that the guitar not quite exact relative spot as in the previous sample. Darn close and I wouldn't blame anyone for the difference. As an audio engineer, the mic placement definitely crossed my mind.
Wow! I've watched a lot of guitar tone videos and often, I can barely detect the supposed differences between various setups. But the difference here is unmistakable. The guitar is far more resonant with the slotted bridge. There are new layers throughout the whole frequency range. The overall sound of the guitar isn't brighter or darker - just fuller. It's amazing that such a simple mod can make such a significant improvement. Thank you so much for sharing this.
I have done this slotting for players without much height on their saddle left and re-used the slotted bridge pins backwards as you said. Definitely improves the tone on aging neck angles!
Much more animated sound on a whole level, strings sounding in unison with solid pins and slotted bridge is an advanced bold sounding melodious beautiful sound!
This makes total sense. I’ve been slotting the bridges on my guitars and using the slotted pins on the Low E and A and then turn the other pins around, slot facing the bottom of the guitar. Thanks for the great videos!
Hey Chris, I can definitely tell the difference and I have recorded enough guitars to be able to tell reasonably what it sounds and feels like in the room. The slotted is definitely superior. Great video and thanks.
I DID IT!!! I bought an even less expensive slotting saw on Amazon and slotted the bridge on my Martin 000-15. Not only is the sound richer and fuller, and the sustain recognizably longer, but I was pleasantly surprised to discover that it's much easier to get a good vibrato with minimal effort. I'm no luthier by any stretch of the imagination, nor do i have much woodworking experience, but i'm adventurous and patient (and I like to buy tools). This took me less than 2 hours.
It's funny, just last night I was thinking that I hadn't seen a new vid from you guys in a while. And here you are! Amazing how much fuller and more resonant the guitar sounded after slotting the bridge! StewMac here I come! 🤣 Thanks guys!
Thank God for a new Driftwood vid...I've been going through withdrawals for a couple months. Love everything you guys do, and thank you so much for doing it.
I don't have the best ears, but if I heard any differences, they were very minor. I would have liked a blind test with the factory and slotted examples mixed up from one comparison to the next. It has been fairly well demonstrated that people listen with their eyes.
I'm sorry, but I am 73 years old and have punished my hearing for years playing loud music, but I don't hear any difference at all. Maybe my hearing is so shot I can't hear it. I don't know.
Sorry, no disrespect meant, but either your using poor audio/speakers/headphones, or your hearing is suffering. I approached this audio with a healthy dose of skepticism. I'm the type of musician, that "I have to truly hear the difference to believe it". Using headphones plugged into my laptop, I was truly amazed. The slotted bridge made this instrument's tone PROFOUNDLY more full & robust. Furthermore: it doesn't matter if "which was which" was revealed on the screen, I would've still picked out each time the instrument's tone sounded so much more full. Particularly with the mids, they have a much sweeter, deeper tone...........much like a fine, old acoustic guitar that has "opened up" over the decades. And yes, it's true: the really fine instruments do sound better with age. Me: a 62 yr old, lifelong guitarist and former stage performer ( now retired ) with decades of professional gigs all over east/central Florida, singing lead vocals/backing vocals, guitar (acoustic and electric ), and blues harp. I was also Blessed with having what is known as "perfect pitch". Personally, I always figured just about any singer or musician could strive to acquire perfect pitch......but evidently not. Not bragging at all, merely giving my credentials.......and I truly do hear the difference. Made a total believer out of me. This video also reminded me of how I have indeed seen old acoustic guitars with slotted bridges........but I never really paid them any mind, and no one ever mentioned the advantage. I once owned an absolutely killer Takamine guitar with a pinless bridge, and that bridge did have it's own style of slots where the strings did have more downward pressure on the saddles. Makes perfect sense now. It's one of only 3 guitars that I wish I never sold after retiring. And that was only due to that horrible recession of '08. I had to sell everything to save our home.
My old D-28 has a "slotted" bridge not by intent but by age. Therefore it stands to reason that all I will need to do is turn the bridge pins around. I intend to try it at the next string change. Thanks for the tip. I do detect a richer, fuller tone in the mid and low tones in your demo. Again thanks.
Funny. I guess I can say the same for my old Harmony. A couple of my pins broke and I replaced them all with wood. Huge difference in tone! They are slightly slotted; took a while to get the technique down for when to pull up on the ball without having the pin pop out.
I’ve been doing this to my guitars for years. I believe it makes a big difference. From my 1941 000-18 to my 2018 D-45 all my guitars have unslotted bridge pins.
Makes sense, the more brake angle and down pressure you get, the more volume and sustain. I will say that anyone that is not experienced should bring the guitar to a tech or luthier to have it done, because you can mess it up real quick.
The initial sound is much the same, but the notes sustain much longer. My guitar has had this mod done to it. My guitar tech also put in a slightly taller saddle to increase the break angle. He also lengthened the saddle, converting it to a "through" saddle, which increased the footprint. All this made a noticeable improvement. After wearing the frets down, I took it to him for a re-fret. He put in huge frets, but didn't widen the fret slots. To do this, each fret had to be forced into place. This incrementally increased the neck tension, resulting in the biggest increase in volume of all the mods performed on the guitar.
@@mikegaurnier No, he meant "through saddle", short for "cut-through saddle". It's a common term that's been used for almost a century now. There are "drop " saddles - short for "drop in", and "through" saddles, short for "cut through". Don't try to pedantically "correct" people and insist what they did or did not mean, especially when you don't even understand the terminology you're trying to "correct". It's rude, arrogant, and uncouth.
Something I never knew. This video was so well-done that I subscribed, and I have now become interested in your work and the construction side of guitars. Great work!
Your comments were spot on about the sustain and the energy you feel when you play a guitar setup with a slotted bridge. That is why many of the boutique guitar builders use a slotted bridge in their guitars.
I've been doing this for the last fifteen years because it made sense to me to increase the break angle on the strings. Another little improvement you can make for free is to bevel the ends of the bridge pins so the string ball locks in better, pushing it tighter to the bridge plate for better contact to the soundboard. Waxing the top a couple times a year will also brighten your sound.
@@dragonflash09 I hadn't really thought about it, but my strings seem to last an inordinate amount of time, and until Covid hit, I was performing at least two 3-4 hour shows per week. In terms of breakage, it's been over 10-12 years since I broke a string, and I play lights or custom lights, usually Martin phosphor-bronze, because I usually buy them in bulk. I don't use a heavy gauge pick, which might be one reason I don't break strings,
More resonance and longer sustain and it just sounds so much better love it! Thanks for sharing what I wondered about for years. So simple and easy to do.
Of the several ( more than that, actually ) killer acoustic guitars I've owned & performed with over many years, one of my absolute favorites was a high-end Takamine with a pinless bridge. And looking back & remembering how the strings were routed across slots in the bridge, it definitely caused more downward force on the strings across the saddle. No wonder that guitar sounded so good. Of course I didn't realize back then, the advantage that pinless bridge afforded........I thought it was simply "more convenient when installing strings: no pins to fuss over". You're never too old to learn new things..........or even facts that have existed all along..........THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO!!!
In online comparisons of instrumental sound I generally detect little to no difference, but I'm definitely noticing a difference in this case. I would say the sound is more focused after the bridge slotting.
Get over it, sometimes the wrong button is on. Do you think your fans (I'm being kind and assuming you are a fabulous and popular muso)and friends will go "Wow dude that sounds better"? Maybe you play in pubs or other similar places where people are legless and think Taylor Swift is the 'bomb" I don't know. BUt I'll absolutely guarantee only you notice the difference. And unless you can display various guitars with the different criteria to your listeners, no one else will care. All this stuff is nice to know (and it IS) technically, especially if you are a luthier AND you can sell the difference to likes of Tommy Emmanuel, Good luck.@@commontater8630
Actually makes such a big difference! Far more than switching the plastic nut for a bone which I have done many times. I think having the solid pins also means the resonances aren't broken down compared to the split pins. Something I shall definitely try in future!
I hear the difference too, but I don't think it's that big, we all have opinions right? Also you have a trained ear, the average "Joe" couldn't tell the difference if his life depended on it. Now that being said, there was not much brake angle, so slotting the bridge makes for more volume big time, the saddle was so short for a new guitar, I guess someone may have set it up. I'm sure they wanted the action real low. That makes for a different discussion, but same idea. Not as much down pressure on the saddle, so I guess it's finding the happy medium.
Deeper, more resonance and sustain. Really nice mod, you can kinda tell it's the way it's meant to be, I've played both types and always found I liked the solid peg solution more but each to their own and it also depends on what you want you guitar to do and sound like I suppose. Also it could be an expensive mistake if you 'f it up eh
That what scares me... Thinking of trying it out a guitar that isn't too precious to me, before trying out on something that would be devastating to mess up.
As you mentioned, the steeper angle of the strings from the bridge to the top contributes to more energy being transferred into the guitar's top, enhancing its sound. Considering this, could we selectively adjust the angle of each string as an effective method for balancing the sound produced by each individual string?
That's a very interesting comment on steeper angle, because 1 luther I visit Doesn't believe that at all & he has several Acoustic's to prove it, both have Very thin saddles but have amazing full/ bodied sound from both?
Interesting comparison, thank you!. In such a good guitar it seems to improve just a little or make the guitar sound like other, i.e. in individual chords sounds better, but in a song sounds just different to me, like another good sounding guitar. I think it would interesting to hear that modification on a cheap and bad sounding guitar.
Some thoughts on the matter: With the factory bridge, the strings transfer an important part of the energy to the exit of the hole of each pin, approximately 1-1.5cm further back from the saddle. But it continues to transfer that energy to the wood of the bridge (which is many times larger than those 1.5cms). With the modification, more of that pressure is transferred to the saddle, which sits on the same solid piece of wood (which could clearly improve some issues with intonation, but the energy transfer to the whole bridge body shouldn't change much; the wood of the bridge is much much denser and harder than the top, so it transfers those vibrations as a solid/rigid piece (at least the central part, the design of the wings of the bridge is another matter) And the other point is that consistently the modded guitar is aimed a little more upwards. On each chord and strum of the unmodified guitar, the soundboard is tilted slightly to the viewer's left, at a lower angle. (just look at the reflection of light in the soundboard of each take) And those who have recorded an acoustic guitar know very well the enormous difference that this variation in the position of the instrument can generate. It sounds different, but how to separate that from the different position of the guitar in each take?
The slotted bridge with un-slotted pins absolutely has better sustain, and the tones, particularly the mids, are sweeter. Much like a fine old acoustic guitar that has "opened up" over the years.
Great video and thanks!. I'm a long time believer. This is a seriously beneficial mod/upgrade. Undeniable tonal improvement. I started slotting my acoustic bridges 40 years ago because it just seemed to make sense to me for all the reasons explained here. More downward pressure on the saddle means more sonic energy gets transferred to the top obviously resulting in more depth and resonance from the body. I thought I came up with an innovative idea, but soon learned otherwise, lol.. There is a particular word that defines this process, but it escapes me. Next obvious question is how different pin materials will affect the tone... wood vs plastic vs brass... bone perhaps? My guess is that brass pins will dampen vibrations. I guess it's time to find out! Cheers!
My wooden pins have much better resonance than plastic. I'd like to know if you have noticed an increase or decrease in string longevity? Do they break more or less often?
So first of all, that was impressive! I felt like the factory version showed off great music and an excellent musician and even a great sounding guitar, but the before and after was surprising. Before it sounded like a great guitar. After, it sounded like a great guitar that also had a soul! The way that the middle and upper bass notes took on more presence in the overall tone without becoming boomy was so enjoyable! Now, my other reaction is... I could not be MORE confused right now. Please tell me if I am missing something. These results seem to fly in the face of another video I saw that Justin Johnson posted, which featured a South African guitar that - if I am following this all correctly - attempted to do the exact opposite of applying more downward pressure. The guitar is called the "Smoothtalker" and rather than applying extra down pressure onto the saddle, it "pinches off" the string length by having what is basically a clamp on top of the strings so that the strings are clamped between the clamp and the bridge. Additionally, the strings are not secured at the bridge, but rather down by the tailpiece in order to put the least amount of angle on the strings and therefore, even less downward pressure on the guitar top. I'm sure I'm not describing this well enough, but I would be in your debt if you would watch that video and let us all know what you think. The essential premise of the design is to put the least amount of pressure possible on the top surface so that it can resonate as freely as possible and function like a true sound board. The video is entitled "The “Smoothtalker” REINVENTS the Acoustic Guitar! | UNBOXING" and was posted by Justin on his RUclips channel "Justin Johnson". The manufacturer is Mervyn Davis Guitars and this particular guitar belongs to a series called "Smoothtalker". The exact model played is the SSJ1. Thanks so much in advance for your time and thoughts on this!
OK, I’m convinced. I finally did this on a beater (1980s Fender Redono!) and it’s like night and day. I’ll be doing this to other guitars as I work my way progressively up my finer guitars. I want to thank you for teaching me more about guitars - not just the hows but whys - than anyone else online.
…thx bud. I turned my $90 Jasmine S35 into a $500 sounding model-Your tip really helped- I put on my gloves & used the old strings as a saw ~bought cheaper pegs $15- my next project is my Ibanez AW 50-back burner
Like most guitar A B tests it’s so subtle it’s completely negligible. Everyone wants to say it sounds better but nobody wants to admit it’s barely noticeable. It’s like wine tasting. The subtleties of how you actually play make a far greater difference that this mod does.
I noticed a difference.....subtile but it was there, mostly in the middles. I guess the difference will be more noticeable to the player because we can feel the change in vibrations and that makes the palying much more enjoyable.
Haha it's a massive difference If it's minimal difference to you then that's fine Sometimes there are negligible and no difference in a/b But this was massive change I'm actually thinking he used a different pick and the guitar position relative to the muc changed Like that can only explain the drastic difference in sound, or the mod just does that But if you can't hear it then learn to critically listen
It's hard to tell whether there were any real improvements when playing single chords, although things did seem a bit more dynamic when you played that short piece. One alternative you may want to look at are 'Power Pins'. These are threaded pins that screw into a steel plate below the bridge; strings are strung up on the bridge surface, so the string doesn't actually make any sharp bends. I've used them for several years, and immediately after installing them, I noticed greater volume and sustain. Individual strings also sound more distinct when playing. Some people don't like them, but I think they're one of the most significant advances in acoustic guitar technology in the last 50 years. No affiliation, BTW.
That’s interesting bc Paul Davids particularly chose a head option on his new Collings that increases the angle over the nut… I know that’s the other end but that break angle is interesting…
Significantly better with the slotted bridge, louder by a 1 or 2 dB, fuller, richer tone, and more open sound. With the slotted pins, the guitar sounded compressed, like it was being squeezed and held back from producing a full sound. Good demo, but it would be nice to see this done on more guitars for comparison. Thanks
I came here to say this. It almost seems that the gain was tweaked up for the 'after' clips recordings - but I'm sure the guys were scrupulous in keeping the levels constant. And I agree about that sense of compression you mentioned. Well put.
The tone shimmers and rings beautifully after the mod. It’s hard to believe that Martin shipped a D18 with that low of a saddle. I would expect that condition on a decades old guitar. All my favorite RUclips luthiers (yourselves included) perform this mod! Thanks!
Wow, that's a big improvement! It gets a way more warmer and deeper sound! I definitely can hear the difference but maybe it's because I have an extremely sensitive and absolute hearing. I'll definitely will use this on my future guitars.
Thanks for the excellent video. I can hear the difference in the before and after in your video. A definite improvement. I'm no luthier but I do my own set-ups and some repair work. Sometimes I have settled for higher action on my guitars for a taller saddle that increases the break angle because I know it improves the sound. I wasn't sure is was a good idea to make those cuts in the saddle, but you have opened my eyes and I will be using this approach on my guitars going forward. Stewmac can thank your for the purchases I will make in the near future to get the saws, files, and so on that I will need.
Makes sense. Problem with all YT side-by-side comparisons is that YT compression flattens everything so much that nuances of difference are hard to discern. To my ear the modification added more harmonic range as well as sustain, but it was probably not as prominent as it would be in person. For my part I currently play a Lowden, which threads through the back of the bridge so no pins. But if I had a Taylor or Martin or whatever I'd definitely give this a try!
A Lowden is the perfect guitar to do this test on. A luthier could convert it to a pinned bridge without even taking the bridge off. It’s not too hard a job at all.
My humble Yamaha FG needed this like I need a cold beer after cutting the grass in August. Thank you! The whole process took about an hour of fiddling with a couple of files and brought out a whole new voice the instrument was missing! I am using the stock plastic pins turned around for now. Finding solid pins isn't very easy! Stew Macs Waverly bone pins are all I can find right now.
I think this is interesting -- the sound doesn't die off linearly, it tends to swells after attack, kinda like a reflection, that adds to touch sensitivity, etc. It caught my ear, personally, because we at Sophia Tremolo discovered the same effect when we integrated the stabilizers into the tremolo where the extra contact pins touching the body under mild-pretension, tends to generate the same swelling or bloom that increase tone, playability and musicality imho -- love back - thank you!.
A true beginner at 61 and hearing impaired as well. Learning so much in such a short time. One question, how often do experienced guitarists take the time to make this modification?
I made my own saw tool from an old scroll saw blade, then made this mod to my 1977 Alvarez. The difference was (to me) astounding. My dreadnought has so much more volume and sustain after having made this mod. I filled my bridge pin slots with epoxy and sanded the filled pin slots until they were rounded and smooth, then turned the pins around so the filled pin slots faced away from the saddle. I am very happy with the results.
There is a slight difference. I noticed the mid range sound seemed a little more vibrant on the last tune you did. I made a bridge pin slot tool out of a wide & thicker scroll saw blade. 😉
Only thing is these guys are incredibly skilled at this stuff, I'd be scared of damaging my guitar and getting the angle wrong for what is a relatively minor, albeit noticeable, difference.
@@snörre23 I agree it's luthier work, therefore it's slightly misleading to say $16 will allow you to improve the sound of your guitar because it won't. Most would have to pay the luthier which certainly where I live would cost considerably more than $16. That was my whole point.
Yes,I Like IT.I will do the Same Work on my westernguitar fromm Suzuki from 1982.Thank you for this great Job.The Sound with unsloted pins is absolutely great to put money again in this old guitar.greatings rolf
Guys, what do you think about the Alvarez company bridge? It's a kind of 2 levels bridge where the slots are considerably lowered so it creates a huge break angle. To me it would be a very nice solution to improve the sound.
I for one, think its amazing. I have a budget alvarez guitar that sounds better than some of my higher end acoustics. And I was already thinking that the sound quality might be coming down to that bridge design. As a added bonus, if the neck angle starts to go bad as the guitar ages, the bridge design leaves plenty of room to make the playing action adjustment at the bridge with some shaving/sanding....instead of having to do a neck re-set! I wish all my acoustics were equipped with a alvarez bi-level bridge lol
After your first video about this, I also applied this to my guitar with an astonishing result in an improvement in the sound. I'm now forwarding your videos to my friends to convince them to do it too. Thnx
I’m glad I came across this video. It makes a lot sense. More contact, more traction. I modified my Yamaha LL-TA and it sounds brighter and more sustain. I can’t wait to do it to my Martin D-18 and OOO-28EC and my other acoustics! Thanks!
I noticed a more evenly dispersed tone for all strings played in each chord. Seemed to have created a equalization in the volume of the strings as well... The factory setting felt brighter, but with less warmth (which is to me, the Hallmark tone of Martins of any size or shape). Whereas the modified version had this smooth, balanced warmth that I personally love. Just sayin'
I appreciate the added over& undertones when using the slotted bridge mod. The little daddy at the end walking up& down the G& Dm really made the difference pop out. Subbed! Keep it up!
@@driller7714 Are you familiar with how blind tests work? Your perspective (and opinion) is immediately effected by knowing the outcome before you even hear the results. "The difference is very noticeable" But KNOWING which one made it is not the same as actually listening. For all we would know, the factory setup was better and his work changed its tone. By telling everyone he missed a golden opportunity to get unbiased opinions. Humans are biased creatures. We tend to naturally gravitate towards ideas before we even know what the other options are.
@@GreyerShade Yes I am very aware of how blind test work. Don’t be condescending. With that said, if you can’t hear the difference regardless, your ears are broken. Perhaps you need a blind test to determine the difference in sound between an acoustic guitar and an electric?
@@driller7714 I asked a legitimate question because you seem not to understand WHY a blind test was useful there! And even after explaining my point apparently you still don't ??? You hear the difference of which sounds better to you. But take away the text and now you only know which you prefer but not which one it is. A blind test takes that knowledge away from you. If you didn't read it on screen, you'd have no way of knowing if the factory set up was better. One clearly sounds different but without the knowledge of which it was, you simply wouldn't know why. Maybe the new setup muffled the tone. You wouldn't know. And remember, you came to me, I didn't seek you out. Yes the sound was very "noticeable". That wasn't my point at all. And even after explaining, you still dont seem to comprehend why a blind test is useful. Which is why I asked! We'll Agree to disagree and move on.
@@GreyerShade Hmmm. I don’t recall saying I preferred one over the other. I simply stated that they sound different. Twice now you have managed to display poor reading comprehension. Again, a blind test is not required in this situation. The sound of both guitars is fine and music is subjective. Each guitar lends a different musical flavor to a composition. A brighter sound is not always the best sound, nor is a darker sound. That’s why electric guitars have multiple pickups and amplifiers have knobs. Do I need a blind test when choosing which pickup or amp setting best suits a song? No, I do not. A blind test would be suitable when comparing a modeling amp to the original or a pickup that is meant to emulate a famous counterpart. In this case, the sound should be the same. In this case you would be unbiased in your decision with a blind test. When comparing two things that are not supposed to sound the same, no blind test is needed. They will either sound the same or they won’t. The mid tones on the guitar with the modification are brighter. This mod would be good if your guitar has an overly dark tone and you wish to have a brighter sound. It might not be ideal if your guitar is already bright in the mids. Again, no blind test needed. The sound is distinct. Consider it a tone adjustment on an acoustic, a permanent one.
The difference I hear is microscopic, Its easy to think it sounds better when its louder, I can't comment on sustain without numbers which is hard control considering you need to keep exact pluck force and angle exact but i suspect this is minimal as well as i can't here it. the utility however of it being more like a electric bridge is unmistakable. That said I think break angle matters for a lot of things and if people think it sounds better and you want to play on superstition of tradition (as a builder) I think its a intelligent decision. I'll probably do the same.
What would be a short list of all the small things that are done less well you mentioned at 3:05? Asking to see if there are others we can realistically improve even if we aren't luthiers.
I couldn't hear much difference on the chording A-B but at the end with the strumming comparison I definitely hear that the ramped bridge made the guitar sound more expressive - Better sustain and could hear more nuances from each string with better separation.
I'm sorry but if you want to do a test like this you need to have more controlled conditions or the results are nullified. Our brains are easily tricked by visuals and suggestion so now we know what we think is right and wrong, do the test again with just audio and no hint which is which and find out what percentage of people can guess the difference. Also restretching the strings or resplacing the strings can have an equal effect on tone so that could be the cause if any is noticable. Not to mention that how you play changes each time you play it, it's not controlled and if you pluck the string closer to the nut itll sound warmer and more middy than if you pluck it bridge side so how do we know you are controlling for that during the play test too? What about your distance and angle from the mic? I get you can't do a reamp box with an acoustic but surely you can come up with some way to control the variables more stringently.
Did you actually listen? The difference was very specific.... It wasn't volume of resonance or what frequencies were there.... It was the actual type of resonance.... Like the frequencies and harmonic complexities were married into the fundamental tone and all targeted at the same time. You can get all analytical about testing conditions (which is an important Factor but doesn't nullify that the instrument actually sounded different in the easy out produced tone...) or you can actually use your ears. The instrument didn't I improve to sing like an entirely different instrument... It was mostly the same... But the way the tones harmonized into one from the instant of attack throughout the sustained notes fundamentally changed.
@@ramspencer5492 all that flowery language and it's completely undermined by the fact that you don't know any of things you said are true. You were told which was which and which would be better and you have no idea whatsoever if what you think you heard is what you actually heard or if your brain expected to hear it and put that lovely detail in there from your imagination. Your statements about the experiment are fundamentally not trustworthy. And that is the point. If the conditions were actually controlled and not subject to human brains nonsense. It's easy enough to record the both guitars and do an AB comparison of the wave form and see the difference. We have had that technology for many many many decades. Nowadays it can be done to a resolution of 192khz sample rate. It's very easy to take the Placebo out by making the experiment a blind one where you don't know which is which and so have to actually rely on your ears not your expectations.... We do that for a reason because human brains are very good at hearing what we expect to hear. It's very very well documented. If what you describe ACTUALLY exists then you'll be able to measure it. Otherwise it might just be in your own head and you don't know which it is.
@@ramspencer5492 I did listen... But because human brains are well known to be very very very suggestible I could not trust what I heard. And you are an idiot for trusting what you heard. You were told which is which so your brain was very capable of filling in the gaps and making you hear what you expected to hear. This is a very well documented behaviour brains have. So until there are empirical measurements we don't know if those differences you heard are fantasy or real.
I've known about slotted and non-slotted bridge pins for a long time. both my acoustics do not have slotted pins. I definitely heard a significant difference between the two. Thanks for the video as it reinforced my opinion. :)
I had never even heard of unslotted pins until I accidently ordered a set for my second guitar build. So I went online and saw your first video on this topic. Of course I didn't have the $25 Stewmac tool, and I didn't want to wait to order one, so I made a little wooden handle and glued it onto a sabersaw blade. Works great and 10 guitars in, I am still using it. Another advantage: The pressure of the end ball on slotted pins sometimes deforms and ruins the pins. This can't happen with a slotted bridge.
The tone in the sustain is almost identical. The difference is immediately as you strum the strings there’s almost a muted sound like someone talking with a cold on the initial pluck that completely disappears.
I tested the method first on my parlour laminated guitar, which I use for testing purposes. Noticed very big difference. The sound got better a lot. Then did the same on Yamaha LS 6. At first did not notice much of a difference. But I forgot to make 45* angle, which is obviously the secret. After I did that the sound got much much better. This technique truly works.
This video has a flaw. It's not its methods, conclusion or presentation, which are true and excellent. It's more of an omission. Here, the comparison is made between strings being anchored to cheap, plastic pins, versus to the bridge directly. When the strings are anchored to fluted pins, the tone is conducted through the pin into the bridge. There are numerous videos which show that an audible improvement can also be obtained from using pins made of a better material, like bone, ebony, or brass. Brass pins show the most striking difference. Think about it: your string has a brass ball on the end, which actually mates with the bridge plate. If the brass ball is securely anchored to a brass pin, which firmly mates with the bridge, that is also a good situation. The video should mention getting brass (or other superior material) pins as an alternative to cutting slots into your bridge, so that viewers have all the information before they start cutting slots into their instrument.
You know ever since I started messing with guitars I've never liked how the slotted pins sit on the strings, but I never gave it much thought until I watched your other video. I loved how my Mitchell sounded at the store but now that I've owned it for a while I can definitely see some aspects I can improve on with a little patience and good youtube videos like this one.
i am a spring maker by trade, so ive been working with music wire ( carbon spring steel ) for many years. i am no guitar tech, but i always felt there was improvement required at the pin end, i reckon this is the way forward. many modern acoustic manufacturers seem to be concentrating on bracing upgrades, whilst ignoring this idea. maybe you should patent this ?
With an archtop the pull of the strings is on the tailpiece, and the downward push is on the bridge. With a flat top, both the pull and push is on the bridge, creating much more stress. What you have done here is shift the pull-push ratio, which is radical. But does the driveway go all the way to the garage? What if you were to raise the fretboard, and lower the pedestal of the bridge? You would have to raise the blade, and that would create an even steeper angle. The result may take things too far, or maybe it could be something good.
What a difference. I liked it modified. My Martin DG 16 ….. what ever the model is with the Roland Cosm preamp has the slots in the bridge & the slotted pins. We haven’t really bonded. What’s weird is the G string on the 13th fret is noticeably flat. I replaced the preamp with a Fishman Presys Plus 201 ten years ago and with in the last year or so it started making a static sound & the output has been dropping. Now it sounds like a waterfall/rain storm. The pot & switches are extremely scratchy now. So I guess I’ll put the Roland back in. Thanks for the tip.
just found this video today. I was shopping for bridge pins for my good ole Guild F112 from 1972. I brought it in for a repair about 5 years ago and while they had it, the shop did this procedure for me. When I got the guitar back, it felt like the guitar LOST a lot of its volume and projection. So, I just don't know about this. perhaps it was another part of the repair that changed the tone. It's possible. Thanks for putting up this very interesting video.
I just found your content and, so far, really like it. I am not a player but I love guitar music. I was hoping you would do a comparison video of slotted vs. unslotted. I was blown away by the difference in sound quality and from a simple modification. I have a mechanical mind and when I watched the first video on this subject it really made sense. Thank you.
Nice to see a technical view to improve a product. 4:51 the strings seem to be pushing the white saddle downward. 5:02 the strings seem to increase the pressure on the saddle in a forward direction. If that white saddle was plastic it seems it it might break or chip. So in my opinion this might be a problem for the usual guitar.
Interesting; my Martin D-45 does not have this BUT my Martin DC-16GTE does have the slots cut into the bridge. Both were bought new, so it is Martin that did this "Mod" on the lower priced guitar but not the higher priced one.
woooow.... very evident! i am amazed how the tone even changed. I expected a bit of brightness and volume (really, more volume that makes the bright tones more clear) but the added sustain and tone.... holy crap. I need do this immediately.
I got half way through and had to comment. We were talking about the vibrations of the strings getting transferred to the body. Part of it is through the contact with the bridge and part through the contact with the pin hole and the pin. Plastic pins would dampen some of the transfer. That could be improved with bone or wood pins. The slot affords closer contact with the wood decreasing the damping effect of plastic pins.
I like the change. It sounds fuller with more resonance. It might be losing a little bit of high end frequencies so I guess its personal choice but it's nice to know how to make that change according to what you prefer.
There's more mid range, less treble, with a bass boost. I usually mix mid range down by setting the graphic equalizer in a "V" pattern, since that range tends to be dominant. But the change creates a very pleasing tonal mix in the mid range, and sounds more full. I could tell you were digging the tones, because the sound made you ad lib more after the change. I have a Martin guitar and I'm going to put this fix in!
no doubt, the sustain improves, as do the mid tones. So good to see real musicians, real craftsmen, giving us ways to improve tone and not a dime to be made. Just giving help. You guys ROCK!
Exactly. You can definitely hear the difference, and I bet it's even better playing it in person.
Almost sounds tinny. I prefer the more mellow, woody sound of the slotted pins.
Yes, I noticed a slight increase in the sustain as well. But my Yammy A3R has a good sustain anyway, with old strings (which very soon need to be replaced), and will have a factory sustain properly when I do change them. I won't bother changing bridgewise just yet. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Bought my A3R in 2014, and it's sounding better as it gets older. I use Elixirs 11's sets.
@@johnperkins2174 Buddy, you've got the two mixed up. Go back and listen very carefully with GOOD headphones: The slotted bridge with solid pins is the one that has sweeter, richer, deeper mids especially, while the slotted pins on a flat bridge sounds tighter & tinnier. Seriously Bro, check it out again.
@@brianmorris8045 To each his own, and no disrespect meant, but for me, I absolutely hate the Elixir's. The only thing they're good for is quieting string squeek when sliding fingers up or down the fingerboard. The "nano webbing" of Elixir's also traps & holds too much oil & dirt, causing them to go dead about as quickly as any cheap string. And when performing a song that requires a heavier attack, even the heavier gauges of Elixir's play like rubber bands, and break too easily. Have you ever tried Martin Marquis acoustic strings? They are available in regular bronze and phosphor bronze. ( Some acoustic guitars sound better with the mellower phosphor bronze strings. ) I'm going on 62 yrs old, and gigged professionally for decades. Retired from the music scene in '02. I've owned more than several killer acoustic guitars over the years, amps, PA's, etc, and I've tried every acoustic string under the sun. At any given time, I used 3 acoustic guitars with each tuned differently for each show. When the Elixir's first came out in the early 90's & were all the rage, I was lucky if I could go a full show on my main guitar without breaking a string, and I used new strings for EVERY show, I kid you not. Of course I would give them a decent "break-in" before each show, because brand new strings are too bright. They start sounding better after they soak up the oils from your hands. This is true for ALL strings. The Martin Marquis ended my search for the best tone, resonance, playability, and durability.......hands down. I used .12's on all of my acoustics. They're priced a little higher than the average string sets, but not as much as the Elixir's. At least they were back in my gigging days. If ya haven't tried them yet, give em a shot. I'm confident you'll be surprised. Every acoustic guitarist I ever turned on to them, loved them......just as someone turned me on to them. They're NOT the regular "Martin strings".......make sure the label says Martin MARQUIS. I also recall reading about quite a few big time artists loving them as well. It stands to reason. Take care Brother.
Its amazing how the unslotted pins add riffs to the tune.
It's a complex interaction. Yep.
That's why no one wants to hang out with you at recess
and goes into perfect tune instead of slight out...
@@M3th0dic4l”perfect tune” is impossible…
its true tho. the enhanced sonic power compels the riffs.
I started slotting bridges and using unslotted bridge pins after seeing your video about a year ago. The improvement across all brands is remarkable and has brought great reactions from my customers. Thanks, and keep making your great videos.
Which saw do you use? StewMac offers a .028 & a .051. Did you have to use a reamer? Those are expensive.
With the automation that goes on these days it seems crazy that these guitar companies can’t automate some of the set features so that the time is cut down on small details like like this.
I’m 69 and I could hear the difference and I believe it definitely improved the sound so I will be trying this on my guitars. Thank you for taking the time to share this.
Nice.
I could definately hear the difference.
Factory- more twangy when strings were initially struck
After mod- more warm and even blend of strings when strumming chords.
I like it! Thank you.
It opens up the tone a lot! Warmer, more sustain, more defined. Hadn't though of this at all, great demo.
The most obvious improvement to me is the richness of the cords. The factory guitar sounded flat and lifeless…after the modification again rich and full NOT dull like in need of a string change. Loved it!! Great video.😊
There is a muted tone in the factory version that I don't like, and I think I would not have noticed it were it not for the comparison. The slotted bridge breathes and has and openness not to mention sustain. It's a sound I have attempted to find by using certain types of strings. Thank you for this!
Have you tried modding a bridge yet?
I've done this to two guitars - inspired by your original video - a 1999 Larrivee Parlor and a recent Martin DSS-17. The difference is subtle, but noticeable. Both guitars sound a little fuller, more resonant, just a little more focused and together, with more sustain. They were both great guitars before, but this is absolutely an improvement.
No. We must dismissed your claims as unfounded, you have no metrics.
That's awesome to hear. I have a Martin DSS-17 I'm about to do this too tonight and what you are describing in the difference of tone and sustain is exactly what I'm hoping to accomplish by doing this to mine.
@@NeverTalkToCops1By the way, I'm ill now, but indeed, I'm not sure untill I have metrics (like vomitting or measuring if I have fever) ;)
Hmmm....while the bridge angle makes some sense, maybe I'd have to listen to this with full studio headphones instead of just earbuds (if so i will update) but for now I'd have to say I only hear a very subtle difference (and differences vary low thru high). Some tones I found slightly better, some I found worse. Overall, I can't say it sounds better. To be fair, some of the tonal difference could just as easily be attributed to a slightly different string strike. If anything, I'd give a slight preference to pre-mod. As for sustain, I'm not hearing better sustain on this recording (maybe real ambient is different?).
Thanks for sharing.
@@SlimErnieYour inability to hear the improved sustain is…well…. Let’s just say, if I were you I would be concerned.
I hear a difference in tone , but not sure it's better. I also wonder about the pressure that sharper angle has in pushing the saddle in its slot forward towards the soundhole instead of more downward into the slot.
I consider myself a novice and relatively new at learning guitar and even I could hear a difference. Sounded crisper, livelier and with distinctively more sustain. I’d be terrified to modify my guitar but then again, haven’t seen your “How to” video yet. Awesome video.
As a very experienced player of many years, your perception is crystal clear.
You can find YT vids on the subject of doing the work, I'd bet. I'm no great craftsman, but I could do it with some study and the right tools. The trick is knowing how much & when and where to stop.
I'll never bother, because when I play out, I'm either on an electric or electro-acoustic. Unnecessary on the former and not really that useful on a E/A driving an amp in a club.
Good ears, though. Straight ahead.
I go one step further and slip a ball end from an old string over each string before they go in the bridge. This gives a flat contact point on the bridge plate for better sound and also helps preserve the plate from gouges resulting from round ball ends.
I’ve been saving ball ends these days and now wonder if stacking as you mentioned would also increase direct contact with the pins? I’m putting a flat bevel on the unslotted side to keep the ball ends perpendicular. If the slot in plate and bridge is wide enough (tightly fitting with pin) the string will pull everything up tight.
Really like this idea. I'll try it with my next string change. It should also better protect the bridge plate from being torn up.
A bit like a washer?
@@johnmitchell1614 I have a Mitchell’s Plate Mate installed on my D28 and it pleasantly brightens the wound strings , but I’m ambivalent about the higher plain strings,sometimes switching to a cut version, savoring the sweetness of the rosewood bridge plate.
@@johnmitchell1614 - yes
In my opinion, it brightens the tone noticeably. It sounds more lively.
I noticed it on the high end most immediately as well.
And a lot more sustain
I agree but don’t you think the bass drops off just a little too? This could be ok for a dreadnought but not so much for the brighter body shapes. I’d be very cautious of doing this to my guitar… 😬
not a great sounding martin…
@@ravusursi893 Yeah, I thought the low end became kinda muddy, but the mid and high end improves. It becomes a better strumming guitar, but not a better single note guitar. So if you play fingerstyle like I do, you may not want to do this. (Especially if you don't use fingerpicks, because I can only imagine the top strings becoming even more muddy)
I've been a luther for over 40+ years and while I respect you wanting great tone, it's a disservice of your viewers not to let them know of the ramifications of doing this. One of the most common issues on bridges is excessive wear where the bridge pin holes are and the angle of the string, which DOES lead to intonation issues and cracking of the bridge. Sure, this happens over a length of time and it the reason why you do NOT see manufacturers doing this. Why would you want to rush and accelerate the process and integrity of your bridge?
I agree. My older guitars already have slots due to natural tension wear. If I had curved the slots from new I may have had to have a new bridge fitted today as they would have worn through to the saddle by now. Maybe? LoL.... Nah, personally I won't do it...
I'm more, way more, inclined to believe someone who has been making, tuning and loving guitars for 40 plus years over a guy that just wants better sound out of a cheap guitar at any cost. You can tune a Martin but you can't tuna fish.
I have only 25+ year of working with guitars, but I will chip in.
There are pros and cons to both. The best thing would be that every acoustic made would have a good amount of wood in the bridge. I have glued many bridges because the forward pressure on the bone pushes and breaks the wood infront of the bridge, not so much the back. Also if the break angle is steep to begin with no need to mod, but they make them like they make them.
Then again a weak sounding (scooped mids) acoustic can come alive if treated with slots, much better option than sitting in the corner gathering dust. Deal with the issues if they arise later.
Every guitar needs maintenance, if you check the condition of things few times a year you can deal with issues when they are smaller.
If the guitar has suppressed low frequencies, not much you can do to change that. 😂
Laws of physics blows your theory out the sound hole..
Right on.
I do agree, there is a slight change in tonality and increased sustain for the unslotted pin, but again I have to wonder to what degree that change is due to placement to recording. , but two things I quickly notice in the video comparison between factory vs unslotted pin. First might not be so obvious, but nonetheless will produce a variation in sound to the listener - the guitar is tilted back for the unslotted, and straight up and down for factory. The second is the placement of the sound hole in relation to the recording device. I understand the two are videoed at different times (before and after new slotting), however still nonetheless, the sound and placement of guitar in relation to the recording device might be minimal, yet does not represent a true controlled sound test. I would suggest a better test where the instrument is flat on the table and a microphone placed above it. Each time there is an exact placement and distance from recording device.
Totally agree. Nothing scientific about the testing method, at all. From here, sounds like the type of nuanced change in sound you get by changing pick or just playing differently.
Also makes me cringe to see the bridge being "abused" like that :D
They should have at least used a stand for the guitar. However, he said he could definitely feel it. The feel of a guitar is important, even if it doesn't sound much different in a recording, because it could mean all the difference in inspiring you to play.
Well while I do agree on the angle of the guitar the mic placement is pretty much if not exactly the same. Only reason why it looks as if its not is because of the camera angle. If you look closely the "after" shot the camera was slightly more to the right hence it looks like the mic is placed different. The angle while it would change the sound slightly it would not have made that much of a difference
There was a qualitative difference! It was very clearly more than Mike placement... Like the resonance is themselves were married in the fundamental and didn't have to converge but were there from the start. That did not sound like technical differences to me. Not the main thing I was feeling/hearing anyway
The sound is definitely improved - seems to be more depth in the bass and a more mellow sustain. Thanks for the advice - and make MORE VIDEOS!
The guitar tilt/angle to the microphone with the before is different (down more) than the before (up more). Observe the light reflection on the guitar. This subtle change in the guitar angle could be the difference in the sound we are hearing... I'm only playing the devils advocate here because it makes for a faulty/inaccurate test.
@@troybabsYou're right ! It makes a big difference !☝️😏
@@troybabs Good observation.
I didn't notice that but I know that small changes in mic position etc make very big differences. Even the sound of a room changes at different times, weather etc. Great spot!@@troybabs
I did this recently on my Maple jumbo after watching your other video, it absolutely works and has added so much resonance, especially in the mid to bass, I just reinstalled the bone pins I already had with the slot facing backwards as suggested, works a treat....imagine a Maple Jumbo with cavernous bass and actual midrange overtone, I'd been reasonably disappointed with the sound of it for so long and was going to sell it, no way would I sell it now 😅, thanks so much for these uploads 👍👍👍.
From what I hear, the mids are much more scooped (down), which is what acoustic guitarists seem to favor based on amplification scenarios, but the tuning stability seems also ever so slightly more delicate. It's a tough one, for sure.
On your first demo chord, my first thought was "this Martin suddenly became a Collings." But after more samples, the difference seems to be much more nuanced.
For me it’s too bright and scooped with the solid pins compared to factory. I prefer factory pins in this scenario weirdly enough! Each guitar is different though.
I think it improved sustain and volume, but I notice a scoop in the high mids (around 4khz maybe) that is not so pleasant to me. It made it sound “cheap” (just a little bit, of course). But on the other hand the upper highs (8khz and above) are more audible, so I can hear the clarity getting better, which is nice. Thank you for the video, I'll check out more of them!
I heard it like that as well , pre mod has midrange honk that works , the modded sounds a little like a compressed nd eqd scoop .
Im pretty sure that had more
to do with variance in mic placement. A few mm can make a huge difference in proximity effect on a single mic, let alone an x/y stereo mic on a consumer grade recorder in an untreated room.
@@jcabanawSo you reckon the guy goes to all the effort of doing an A/B comparison on a guitar mod, only to mistakenly put the mic in a different place?
@@MisterWade74 You can see in the video that the guitar not quite exact relative spot as in the previous sample. Darn close and I wouldn't blame anyone for the difference. As an audio engineer, the mic placement definitely crossed my mind.
Agreed. Almost sounds like it has a DI mixed in with it. It is brighter but kinda pulls at the ear too much.
Wow! I've watched a lot of guitar tone videos and often, I can barely detect the supposed differences between various setups. But the difference here is unmistakable.
The guitar is far more resonant with the slotted bridge. There are new layers throughout the whole frequency range. The overall sound of the guitar isn't brighter or darker - just fuller.
It's amazing that such a simple mod can make such a significant improvement. Thank you so much for sharing this.
I have done this slotting for players without much height on their saddle left and re-used the slotted bridge pins backwards as you said. Definitely improves the tone on aging neck angles!
Blast! Saw your post just afterf I posted!
Hmm , I have a nice ibanez with very low bridge saddle, may e I should try this? Seems to make more sense with a low saddle.
Much more animated sound on a whole level, strings sounding in unison with solid pins and slotted bridge is an advanced bold sounding melodious beautiful sound!
This makes total sense. I’ve been slotting the bridges on my guitars and using the slotted pins on the Low E and A and then turn the other pins around, slot facing the bottom of the guitar. Thanks for the great videos!
Why do you use the slotted ones still on the base strings instead of turning all around?
Hey Chris, I can definitely tell the difference and I have recorded enough guitars to be able to tell reasonably what it sounds and feels like in the room. The slotted is definitely superior. Great video and thanks.
I DID IT!!! I bought an even less expensive slotting saw on Amazon and slotted the bridge on my Martin 000-15. Not only is the sound richer and fuller, and the sustain recognizably longer, but I was pleasantly surprised to discover that it's much easier to get a good vibrato with minimal effort. I'm no luthier by any stretch of the imagination, nor do i have much woodworking experience, but i'm adventurous and patient (and I like to buy tools). This took me less than 2 hours.
Could you please link the saw, i cant fine one anywhere
Was it difficult? I've been considering slotting my 70s sigma but I'm hesitant to start cutting without getting some more advice
@@wisconsinkraut3445 just go slowly. It’s not difficult but like anything, the first time is the hardest.
Just install the pin backwards, you’re welcome!
It's funny, just last night I was thinking that I hadn't seen a new vid from you guys in a while. And here you are! Amazing how much fuller and more resonant the guitar sounded after slotting the bridge! StewMac here I come! 🤣 Thanks guys!
Thank God for a new Driftwood vid...I've been going through withdrawals for a couple months. Love everything you guys do, and thank you so much for doing it.
I don't have the best ears, but if I heard any differences, they were very minor. I would have liked a blind test with the factory and slotted examples mixed up from one comparison to the next. It has been fairly well demonstrated that people listen with their eyes.
I'm sorry, but I am 73 years old and have punished my hearing for years playing loud music, but I don't hear any difference at all. Maybe my hearing is so shot I can't hear it. I don't know.
I can hear a ton of difference through headphones and with my eyes closed
Sounds better
Honestly I listened without watching and felt the unslotted setup sounded brighter and had longer sustain.
Sorry, no disrespect meant, but either your using poor audio/speakers/headphones, or your hearing is suffering. I approached this audio with a healthy dose of skepticism. I'm the type of musician, that "I have to truly hear the difference to believe it". Using headphones plugged into my laptop, I was truly amazed. The slotted bridge made this instrument's tone PROFOUNDLY more full & robust. Furthermore: it doesn't matter if "which was which" was revealed on the screen, I would've still picked out each time the instrument's tone sounded so much more full. Particularly with the mids, they have a much sweeter, deeper tone...........much like a fine, old acoustic guitar that has "opened up" over the decades. And yes, it's true: the really fine instruments do sound better with age. Me: a 62 yr old, lifelong guitarist and former stage performer ( now retired ) with decades of professional gigs all over east/central Florida, singing lead vocals/backing vocals, guitar (acoustic and electric ), and blues harp. I was also Blessed with having what is known as "perfect pitch". Personally, I always figured just about any singer or musician could strive to acquire perfect pitch......but evidently not. Not bragging at all, merely giving my credentials.......and I truly do hear the difference. Made a total believer out of me. This video also reminded me of how I have indeed seen old acoustic guitars with slotted bridges........but I never really paid them any mind, and no one ever mentioned the advantage. I once owned an absolutely killer Takamine guitar with a pinless bridge, and that bridge did have it's own style of slots where the strings did have more downward pressure on the saddles. Makes perfect sense now. It's one of only 3 guitars that I wish I never sold after retiring. And that was only due to that horrible recession of '08. I had to sell everything to save our home.
My old D-28 has a "slotted" bridge not by intent but by age. Therefore it stands to reason that all I will need to do is turn the bridge pins around. I intend to try it at the next string change. Thanks for the tip. I do detect a richer, fuller tone in the mid and low tones in your demo. Again thanks.
Funny. I guess I can say the same for my old Harmony. A couple of my pins broke and I replaced them all with wood. Huge difference in tone! They are slightly slotted; took a while to get the technique down for when to pull up on the ball without having the pin pop out.
I’ve been doing this to my guitars for years. I believe it makes a big difference. From my 1941 000-18 to my 2018 D-45 all my guitars have unslotted bridge pins.
Makes sense, the more brake angle and down pressure you get, the more volume and sustain. I will say that anyone that is not experienced should bring the guitar to a tech or luthier to have it done, because you can mess it up real quick.
The initial sound is much the same, but the notes sustain much longer. My guitar has had this mod done to it. My guitar tech also put in a slightly taller saddle to increase the break angle. He also lengthened the saddle, converting it to a "through" saddle, which increased the footprint. All this made a noticeable improvement. After wearing the frets down, I took it to him for a re-fret. He put in huge frets, but didn't widen the fret slots. To do this, each fret had to be forced into place. This incrementally increased the neck tension, resulting in the biggest increase in volume of all the mods performed on the guitar.
You didn’t mean “through saddle”, you meant “through bridge.”
Jumbo frets on the acoustic is so nice. You can have high action, and playability too.
@@mikegaurnier No, he meant "through saddle", short for "cut-through saddle". It's a common term that's been used for almost a century now. There are "drop " saddles - short for "drop in", and "through" saddles, short for "cut through".
Don't try to pedantically "correct" people and insist what they did or did not mean, especially when you don't even understand the terminology you're trying to "correct". It's rude, arrogant, and uncouth.
@@NautilusGuitars Oh, I didn't know about the "through saddle". But there is such a thing as a "through bridge" also, isn't there?
@@NautilusGuitars🤡
Something I never knew. This video was so well-done that I subscribed, and I have now become interested in your work and the construction side of guitars. Great work!
Your comments were spot on about the sustain and the energy you feel when you play a guitar setup with a slotted bridge. That is why many of the boutique guitar builders use a slotted bridge in their guitars.
I've been doing this for the last fifteen years because it made sense to me to increase the break angle on the strings. Another little improvement you can make for free is to bevel the ends of the bridge pins so the string ball locks in better, pushing it tighter to the bridge plate for better contact to the soundboard. Waxing the top a couple times a year will also brighten your sound.
Do your strings seem to last longer or less? Break more often or less?
@@dragonflash09 I hadn't really thought about it, but my strings seem to last an inordinate amount of time, and until Covid hit, I was performing at least two 3-4 hour shows per week. In terms of breakage, it's been over 10-12 years since I broke a string, and I play lights or custom lights, usually Martin phosphor-bronze, because I usually buy them in bulk. I don't use a heavy gauge pick, which might be one reason I don't break strings,
More resonance and longer sustain and it just sounds so much better love it!
Thanks for sharing what I wondered about for years. So simple and easy to do.
Of the several ( more than that, actually ) killer acoustic guitars I've owned & performed with over many years, one of my absolute favorites was a high-end Takamine with a pinless bridge. And looking back & remembering how the strings were routed across slots in the bridge, it definitely caused more downward force on the strings across the saddle. No wonder that guitar sounded so good. Of course I didn't realize back then, the advantage that pinless bridge afforded........I thought it was simply "more convenient when installing strings: no pins to fuss over". You're never too old to learn new things..........or even facts that have existed all along..........THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO!!!
In online comparisons of instrumental sound I generally detect little to no difference, but I'm definitely noticing a difference in this case. I would say the sound is more focused after the bridge slotting.
I'm noticing more high end in the sustain
FOCUSED ON WHAT COMMONTATER ?
@@TRICK-OR-TREAT236 Who are you trying to impress, Mr. ALL CAPS ?
YOU OF COURSE AND I SEE IT WORKED ! 😂 🤣 😂 🤣 😂@@commontater8630
Get over it, sometimes the wrong button is on. Do you think your fans (I'm being kind and assuming you are a fabulous and popular muso)and friends will go "Wow dude that sounds better"? Maybe you play in pubs or other similar places where people are legless and think Taylor Swift is the 'bomb" I don't know. BUt I'll absolutely guarantee only you notice the difference. And unless you can display various guitars with the different criteria to your listeners, no one else will care. All this stuff is nice to know (and it IS) technically, especially if you are a luthier AND you can sell the difference to likes of Tommy Emmanuel, Good luck.@@commontater8630
Actually makes such a big difference! Far more than switching the plastic nut for a bone which I have done many times.
I think having the solid pins also means the resonances aren't broken down compared to the split pins.
Something I shall definitely try in future!
I hear the difference too, but I don't think it's that big, we all have opinions right? Also you have a trained ear, the average "Joe" couldn't tell the difference if his life depended on it. Now that being said, there was not much brake angle, so slotting the bridge makes for more volume big time, the saddle was so short for a new guitar, I guess someone may have set it up. I'm sure they wanted the action real low. That makes for a different discussion, but same idea. Not as much down pressure on the saddle, so I guess it's finding the happy medium.
Deeper, more resonance and sustain. Really nice mod, you can kinda tell it's the way it's meant to be, I've played both types and always found I liked the solid peg solution more but each to their own and it also depends on what you want you guitar to do and sound like I suppose. Also it could be an expensive mistake if you 'f it up eh
That what scares me... Thinking of trying it out a guitar that isn't too precious to me, before trying out on something that would be devastating to mess up.
Sounds like you took all the warmth out of it for more twang. Might not sit well with other instruments now.
As you mentioned, the steeper angle of the strings from the bridge to the top contributes to more energy being transferred into the guitar's top, enhancing its sound. Considering this, could we selectively adjust the angle of each string as an effective method for balancing the sound produced by each individual string?
That's a very interesting comment on steeper angle, because 1 luther I visit Doesn't believe that at all & he has several Acoustic's to prove it, both have Very thin saddles but have amazing full/ bodied sound from both?
Interesting comparison, thank you!. In such a good guitar it seems to improve just a little or make the guitar sound like other, i.e. in individual chords sounds better, but in a song sounds just different to me, like another good sounding guitar. I think it would interesting to hear that modification on a cheap and bad sounding guitar.
Some thoughts on the matter:
With the factory bridge, the strings transfer an important part of the energy to the exit of the hole of each pin, approximately 1-1.5cm further back from the saddle. But it continues to transfer that energy to the wood of the bridge (which is many times larger than those 1.5cms). With the modification, more of that pressure is transferred to the saddle, which sits on the same solid piece of wood (which could clearly improve some issues with intonation, but the energy transfer to the whole bridge body shouldn't change much; the wood of the bridge is much much denser and harder than the top, so it transfers those vibrations as a solid/rigid piece (at least the central part, the design of the wings of the bridge is another matter)
And the other point is that consistently the modded guitar is aimed a little more upwards. On each chord and strum of the unmodified guitar, the soundboard is tilted slightly to the viewer's left, at a lower angle. (just look at the reflection of light in the soundboard of each take) And those who have recorded an acoustic guitar know very well the enormous difference that this variation in the position of the instrument can generate. It sounds different, but how to separate that from the different position of the guitar in each take?
Great observation. For me, the difference doesn't justify to saw into an undamaged bridge.
I was very ok with my tone on my D18 GE but after the modification changing the strings became much easier.
The slotted bridge with un-slotted pins absolutely has better sustain, and the tones, particularly the mids, are sweeter. Much like a fine old acoustic guitar that has "opened up" over the years.
can you tell me what size saw to get? the link goes to two. Thanks for the video!
When you slot the thing might you come “acrossed/t” proper tone?
Great video and thanks!. I'm a long time believer. This is a seriously beneficial mod/upgrade. Undeniable tonal improvement. I started slotting my acoustic bridges 40 years ago because it just seemed to make sense to me for all the reasons explained here. More downward pressure on the saddle means more sonic energy gets transferred to the top obviously resulting in more depth and resonance from the body. I thought I came up with an innovative idea, but soon learned otherwise, lol.. There is a particular word that defines this process, but it escapes me. Next obvious question is how different pin materials will affect the tone... wood vs plastic vs brass... bone perhaps? My guess is that brass pins will dampen vibrations. I guess it's time to find out! Cheers!
BS
I swapped my plastic pins for brass ones and there's definitely a bit more zing in the top end. 👍
“Undeniable” lmao
Wooden pins might be better though, as sometimes the brass pins do come loose
My wooden pins have much better resonance than plastic. I'd like to know if you have noticed an increase or decrease in string longevity? Do they break more or less often?
So first of all, that was impressive! I felt like the factory version showed off great music and an excellent musician and even a great sounding guitar, but the before and after was surprising. Before it sounded like a great guitar. After, it sounded like a great guitar that also had a soul! The way that the middle and upper bass notes took on more presence in the overall tone without becoming boomy was so enjoyable!
Now, my other reaction is... I could not be MORE confused right now. Please tell me if I am missing something. These results seem to fly in the face of another video I saw that Justin Johnson posted, which featured a South African guitar that - if I am following this all correctly - attempted to do the exact opposite of applying more downward pressure.
The guitar is called the "Smoothtalker" and rather than applying extra down pressure onto the saddle, it "pinches off" the string length by having what is basically a clamp on top of the strings so that the strings are clamped between the clamp and the bridge.
Additionally, the strings are not secured at the bridge, but rather down by the tailpiece in order to put the least amount of angle on the strings and therefore, even less downward pressure on the guitar top.
I'm sure I'm not describing this well enough, but I would be in your debt if you would watch that video and let us all know what you think. The essential premise of the design is to put the least amount of pressure possible on the top surface so that it can resonate as freely as possible and function like a true sound board.
The video is entitled "The “Smoothtalker” REINVENTS the Acoustic Guitar! | UNBOXING" and was posted by Justin on his RUclips channel "Justin Johnson". The manufacturer is Mervyn Davis Guitars and this particular guitar belongs to a series called "Smoothtalker". The exact model played is the SSJ1. Thanks so much in advance for your time and thoughts on this!
The Smoothtalker is a very different design of guitar. And what it does with the break angle is not the opposite.
OK, I’m convinced. I finally did this on a beater (1980s Fender Redono!) and it’s like night and day. I’ll be doing this to other guitars as I work my way progressively up my finer guitars. I want to thank you for teaching me more about guitars - not just the hows but whys - than anyone else online.
…thx bud. I turned my $90 Jasmine S35 into a $500 sounding model-Your tip really helped- I put on my gloves & used the old strings as a saw ~bought cheaper pegs $15- my next project is my Ibanez AW 50-back burner
Old strings make handy little saws.
Went to StewMac and they have two different saws: .028 and .051. Which did you get?
Like most guitar A B tests it’s so subtle it’s completely negligible. Everyone wants to say it sounds better but nobody wants to admit it’s barely noticeable. It’s like wine tasting. The subtleties of how you actually play make a far greater difference that this mod does.
I noticed a difference.....subtile but it was there, mostly in the middles. I guess the difference will be more noticeable to the player because we can feel the change in vibrations and that makes the palying much more enjoyable.
Haha it's a massive difference
If it's minimal difference to you then that's fine
Sometimes there are negligible and no difference in a/b
But this was massive change
I'm actually thinking he used a different pick and the guitar position relative to the muc changed
Like that can only explain the drastic difference in sound, or the mod just does that
But if you can't hear it then learn to critically listen
Yeah, like a different pick, more trebles
I didn't hear much lol. Not worth the work or the risk
Your wrong.
It's hard to tell whether there were any real improvements when playing single chords, although things did seem a bit more dynamic when you played that short piece.
One alternative you may want to look at are 'Power Pins'. These are threaded pins that screw into a steel plate below the bridge; strings are strung up on the bridge surface, so the string doesn't actually make any sharp bends. I've used them for several years, and immediately after installing them, I noticed greater volume and sustain. Individual strings also sound more distinct when playing. Some people don't like them, but I think they're one of the most significant advances in acoustic guitar technology in the last 50 years. No affiliation, BTW.
That’s interesting bc Paul Davids particularly chose a head option on his new Collings that increases the angle over the nut… I know that’s the other end but that break angle is interesting…
Significantly better with the slotted bridge, louder by a 1 or 2 dB, fuller, richer tone, and more open sound. With the slotted pins, the guitar sounded compressed, like it was being squeezed and held back from producing a full sound. Good demo, but it would be nice to see this done on more guitars for comparison. Thanks
I came here to say this. It almost seems that the gain was tweaked up for the 'after' clips recordings - but I'm sure the guys were scrupulous in keeping the levels constant. And I agree about that sense of compression you mentioned. Well put.
Not only that but the random twisting of the string ball ends chews up the bridge plate and doesn’t contact the pin directly.
Don't forget about the price of the tools. The saws and the reamer to get a perfect fit.
The tone shimmers and rings beautifully after the mod. It’s hard to believe that Martin shipped a D18 with that low of a saddle. I would expect that condition on a decades old guitar. All my favorite RUclips luthiers (yourselves included) perform this mod! Thanks!
Wow, that's a big improvement! It gets a way more warmer and deeper sound! I definitely can hear the difference but maybe it's because I have an extremely sensitive and absolute hearing. I'll definitely will use this on my future guitars.
As a old machineist make total sense, I will do to my Martin.😊
Thanks for the excellent video. I can hear the difference in the before and after in your video. A definite improvement. I'm no luthier but I do my own set-ups and some repair work. Sometimes I have settled for higher action on my guitars for a taller saddle that increases the break angle because I know it improves the sound. I wasn't sure is was a good idea to make those cuts in the saddle, but you have opened my eyes and I will be using this approach on my guitars going forward. Stewmac can thank your for the purchases I will make in the near future to get the saws, files, and so on that I will need.
Makes sense. Problem with all YT side-by-side comparisons is that YT compression flattens everything so much that nuances of difference are hard to discern. To my ear the modification added more harmonic range as well as sustain, but it was probably not as prominent as it would be in person. For my part I currently play a Lowden, which threads through the back of the bridge so no pins. But if I had a Taylor or Martin or whatever I'd definitely give this a try!
A Lowden is the perfect guitar to do this test on. A luthier could convert it to a pinned bridge without even taking the bridge off. It’s not too hard a job at all.
My humble Yamaha FG needed this like I need a cold beer after cutting the grass in August. Thank you!
The whole process took about an hour of fiddling with a couple of files and brought out a whole new voice the instrument was missing! I am using the stock plastic pins turned around for now.
Finding solid pins isn't very easy! Stew Macs Waverly bone pins are all I can find right now.
I have been slotting all my bridges. Makes a big difference!
I think this is interesting -- the sound doesn't die off linearly, it tends to swells after attack, kinda like a reflection, that adds to touch sensitivity, etc. It caught my ear, personally, because we at Sophia Tremolo discovered the same effect when we integrated the stabilizers into the tremolo where the extra contact pins touching the body under mild-pretension, tends to generate the same swelling or bloom that increase tone, playability and musicality imho -- love back - thank you!.
Not enough difference to make me want to convert.
A true beginner at 61 and hearing impaired as well. Learning so much in such a short time. One question, how often do experienced guitarists take the time to make this modification?
I made my own saw tool from an old scroll saw blade, then made this mod to my 1977 Alvarez. The difference was (to me) astounding. My dreadnought has so much more volume and sustain after having made this mod. I filled my bridge pin slots with epoxy and sanded the filled pin slots until they were rounded and smooth, then turned the pins around so the filled pin slots faced away from the saddle. I am very happy with the results.
There is a slight difference. I noticed the mid range sound seemed a little more vibrant on the last tune you did.
I made a bridge pin slot tool out of a wide & thicker scroll saw blade. 😉
Mine is a jigsaw blade in a rubber handle. Been using it for years
Only thing is these guys are incredibly skilled at this stuff, I'd be scared of damaging my guitar and getting the angle wrong for what is a relatively minor, albeit noticeable, difference.
Thats luthier work not meant for you to do, you would not do heart surgery on somebody after watching a video.
Completely agree!
@@snörre23 I agree it's luthier work, therefore it's slightly misleading to say $16 will allow you to improve the sound of your guitar because it won't. Most would have to pay the luthier which certainly where I live would cost considerably more than $16. That was my whole point.
Exactly!
Yes,I Like IT.I will do the Same Work on my westernguitar fromm Suzuki from 1982.Thank you for this great Job.The Sound with unsloted pins is absolutely great to put money again in this old guitar.greatings rolf
Guys, what do you think about the Alvarez company bridge? It's a kind of 2 levels bridge where the slots are considerably lowered so it creates a huge break angle. To me it would be a very nice solution to improve the sound.
I for one, think its amazing. I have a budget alvarez guitar that sounds better than some of my higher end acoustics. And I was already thinking that the sound quality might be coming down to that bridge design. As a added bonus, if the neck angle starts to go bad as the guitar ages, the bridge design leaves plenty of room to make the playing action adjustment at the bridge with some shaving/sanding....instead of having to do a neck re-set! I wish all my acoustics were equipped with a alvarez bi-level bridge lol
After your first video about this, I also applied this to my guitar with an astonishing result in an improvement in the sound. I'm now forwarding your videos to my friends to convince them to do it too. Thnx
I’m glad I came across this video. It makes a lot sense. More contact, more traction. I modified my Yamaha LL-TA and it sounds brighter and more sustain. I can’t wait to do it to my Martin D-18 and OOO-28EC and my other acoustics! Thanks!
Question: do both of your guitars have the modified V neck profile? If not which neck profile do you use and which do you prefer?
I noticed a more evenly dispersed tone for all strings played in each chord. Seemed to have created a equalization in the volume of the strings as well... The factory setting felt brighter, but with less warmth (which is to me, the Hallmark tone of Martins of any size or shape). Whereas the modified version had this smooth, balanced warmth that I personally love. Just sayin'
I agree !
I appreciate the added over& undertones when using the slotted bridge mod. The little daddy at the end walking up& down the G& Dm really made the difference pop out. Subbed! Keep it up!
maybe I'm the only one but I think the original sounds better. but I would have to play it awhile.
Was a perfect opportunity to do a blind test with thousands of participants LISTENING instead of knowing the difference already.
Normally I would agree but in this case the difference is very noticeable, especially when he played the song.
@@driller7714 Are you familiar with how blind tests work? Your perspective (and opinion) is immediately effected by knowing the outcome before you even hear the results. "The difference is very noticeable" But KNOWING which one made it is not the same as actually listening. For all we would know, the factory setup was better and his work changed its tone. By telling everyone he missed a golden opportunity to get unbiased opinions. Humans are biased creatures. We tend to naturally gravitate towards ideas before we even know what the other options are.
@@GreyerShade Yes I am very aware of how blind test work. Don’t be condescending.
With that said, if you can’t hear the difference regardless, your ears are broken.
Perhaps you need a blind test to determine the difference in sound between an acoustic guitar and an electric?
@@driller7714 I asked a legitimate question because you seem not to understand WHY a blind test was useful there! And even after explaining my point apparently you still don't ???
You hear the difference of which sounds better to you. But take away the text and now you only know which you prefer but not which one it is. A blind test takes that knowledge away from you. If you didn't read it on screen, you'd have no way of knowing if the factory set up was better. One clearly sounds different but without the knowledge of which it was, you simply wouldn't know why. Maybe the new setup muffled the tone. You wouldn't know.
And remember, you came to me, I didn't seek you out. Yes the sound was very "noticeable". That wasn't my point at all. And even after explaining, you still dont seem to comprehend why a blind test is useful. Which is why I asked! We'll Agree to disagree and move on.
@@GreyerShade Hmmm. I don’t recall saying I preferred one over the other. I simply stated that they sound different. Twice now you have managed to display poor reading comprehension.
Again, a blind test is not required in this situation. The sound of both guitars is fine and music is subjective. Each guitar lends a different musical flavor to a composition. A brighter sound is not always the best sound, nor is a darker sound. That’s why electric guitars have multiple pickups and amplifiers have knobs. Do I need a blind test when choosing which pickup or amp setting best suits a song? No, I do not.
A blind test would be suitable when comparing a modeling amp to the original or a pickup that is meant to emulate a famous counterpart. In this case, the sound should be the same. In this case you would be unbiased in your decision with a blind test.
When comparing two things that are not supposed to sound the same, no blind test is needed. They will either sound the same or they won’t.
The mid tones on the guitar with the modification are brighter. This mod would be good if your guitar has an overly dark tone and you wish to have a brighter sound. It might not be ideal if your guitar is already bright in the mids. Again, no blind test needed. The sound is distinct. Consider it a tone adjustment on an acoustic, a permanent one.
The difference I hear is microscopic, Its easy to think it sounds better when its louder, I can't comment on sustain without numbers which is hard control considering you need to keep exact pluck force and angle exact but i suspect this is minimal as well as i can't here it. the utility however of it being more like a electric bridge is unmistakable. That said I think break angle matters for a lot of things and if people think it sounds better and you want to play on superstition of tradition (as a builder) I think its a intelligent decision. I'll probably do the same.
What would be a short list of all the small things that are done less well you mentioned at 3:05? Asking to see if there are others we can realistically improve even if we aren't luthiers.
I couldn't hear much difference on the chording A-B but at the end with the strumming comparison I definitely hear that the ramped bridge made the guitar sound more expressive - Better sustain and could hear more nuances from each string with better separation.
The only difference I could discern were just to be expected for any human attempting to replicate the same performance twice.
I'm sorry but if you want to do a test like this you need to have more controlled conditions or the results are nullified. Our brains are easily tricked by visuals and suggestion so now we know what we think is right and wrong, do the test again with just audio and no hint which is which and find out what percentage of people can guess the difference. Also restretching the strings or resplacing the strings can have an equal effect on tone so that could be the cause if any is noticable. Not to mention that how you play changes each time you play it, it's not controlled and if you pluck the string closer to the nut itll sound warmer and more middy than if you pluck it bridge side so how do we know you are controlling for that during the play test too? What about your distance and angle from the mic? I get you can't do a reamp box with an acoustic but surely you can come up with some way to control the variables more stringently.
Did you actually listen? The difference was very specific.... It wasn't volume of resonance or what frequencies were there.... It was the actual type of resonance.... Like the frequencies and harmonic complexities were married into the fundamental tone and all targeted at the same time. You can get all analytical about testing conditions (which is an important Factor but doesn't nullify that the instrument actually sounded different in the easy out produced tone...) or you can actually use your ears. The instrument didn't I improve to sing like an entirely different instrument... It was mostly the same... But the way the tones harmonized into one from the instant of attack throughout the sustained notes fundamentally changed.
@@ramspencer5492 all that flowery language and it's completely undermined by the fact that you don't know any of things you said are true. You were told which was which and which would be better and you have no idea whatsoever if what you think you heard is what you actually heard or if your brain expected to hear it and put that lovely detail in there from your imagination.
Your statements about the experiment are fundamentally not trustworthy. And that is the point.
If the conditions were actually controlled and not subject to human brains nonsense. It's easy enough to record the both guitars and do an AB comparison of the wave form and see the difference. We have had that technology for many many many decades. Nowadays it can be done to a resolution of 192khz sample rate.
It's very easy to take the Placebo out by making the experiment a blind one where you don't know which is which and so have to actually rely on your ears not your expectations.... We do that for a reason because human brains are very good at hearing what we expect to hear. It's very very well documented.
If what you describe ACTUALLY exists then you'll be able to measure it. Otherwise it might just be in your own head and you don't know which it is.
@@ramspencer5492 I did listen... But because human brains are well known to be very very very suggestible I could not trust what I heard. And you are an idiot for trusting what you heard.
You were told which is which so your brain was very capable of filling in the gaps and making you hear what you expected to hear. This is a very well documented behaviour brains have.
So until there are empirical measurements we don't know if those differences you heard are fantasy or real.
I’ll bet you’re a hoot at parties.
I heard absolutely no difference and I've been playing for 25 years.
the word is across not acrost
Classic RUclips comment
I've known about slotted and non-slotted bridge pins for a long time. both my acoustics do not have slotted pins. I definitely heard a significant difference between the two. Thanks for the video as it reinforced my opinion. :)
That's really cool, it sounds noticeably better even through the microphone. This is the type of info that's invaluable as a guitar luthier!
I had never even heard of unslotted pins until I accidently ordered a set for my second guitar build. So I went online and saw your first video on this topic. Of course I didn't have the $25 Stewmac tool, and I didn't want to wait to order one, so I made a little wooden handle and glued it onto a sabersaw blade. Works great and 10 guitars in, I am still using it. Another advantage: The pressure of the end ball on slotted pins sometimes deforms and ruins the pins. This can't happen with a slotted bridge.
The tone in the sustain is almost identical. The difference is immediately as you strum the strings there’s almost a muted sound like someone talking with a cold on the initial pluck that completely disappears.
I tested the method first on my parlour laminated guitar, which I use for testing purposes. Noticed very big difference. The sound got better a lot. Then did the same on Yamaha LS 6. At first did not notice much of a difference. But I forgot to make 45* angle, which is obviously the secret. After I did that the sound got much much better. This technique truly works.
This video has a flaw. It's not its methods, conclusion or presentation, which are true and excellent. It's more of an omission.
Here, the comparison is made between strings being anchored to cheap, plastic pins, versus to the bridge directly.
When the strings are anchored to fluted pins, the tone is conducted through the pin into the bridge.
There are numerous videos which show that an audible improvement can also be obtained from using pins made of a better material, like bone, ebony, or brass. Brass pins show the most striking difference.
Think about it: your string has a brass ball on the end, which actually mates with the bridge plate. If the brass ball is securely anchored to a brass pin, which firmly mates with the bridge, that is also a good situation.
The video should mention getting brass (or other superior material) pins as an alternative to cutting slots into your bridge, so that viewers have all the information before they start cutting slots into their instrument.
The improvement is unmistakable. 100% on the money. Been doing this to my guitars for years with great results
You know ever since I started messing with guitars I've never liked how the slotted pins sit on the strings, but I never gave it much thought until I watched your other video.
I loved how my Mitchell sounded at the store but now that I've owned it for a while I can definitely see some aspects I can improve on with a little patience and good youtube videos like this one.
i am a spring maker by trade, so ive been working with music wire ( carbon spring steel ) for many years. i am no guitar tech, but i always felt there was improvement required at the pin end, i reckon this is the way forward. many modern acoustic manufacturers seem to be concentrating on bracing upgrades, whilst ignoring this idea. maybe you should patent this ?
With an archtop the pull of the strings is on the tailpiece, and the downward push is on the bridge. With a flat top, both the pull and push is on the bridge, creating much more stress. What you have done here is shift the pull-push ratio, which is radical. But does the driveway go all the way to the garage? What if you were to raise the fretboard, and lower the pedestal of the bridge? You would have to raise the blade, and that would create an even steeper angle. The result may take things too far, or maybe it could be something good.
What a difference. I liked it modified. My Martin DG 16 ….. what ever the model is with the Roland Cosm preamp has the slots in the bridge & the slotted pins. We haven’t really bonded. What’s weird is the G string on the 13th fret is noticeably flat. I replaced the preamp with a Fishman Presys Plus 201 ten years ago and with in the last year or so it started making a static sound & the output has been dropping. Now it sounds like a waterfall/rain storm. The pot & switches are extremely scratchy now. So I guess I’ll put the Roland back in. Thanks for the tip.
just found this video today. I was shopping for bridge pins for my good ole Guild F112 from 1972. I brought it in for a repair about 5 years ago and while they had it, the shop did this procedure for me. When I got the guitar back, it felt like the guitar LOST a lot of its volume and projection. So, I just don't know about this. perhaps it was another part of the repair that changed the tone. It's possible. Thanks for putting up this very interesting video.
I just found your content and, so far, really like it. I am not a player but I love guitar music. I was hoping you would do a comparison video of slotted vs. unslotted. I was blown away by the difference in sound quality and from a simple modification. I have a mechanical mind and when I watched the first video on this subject it really made sense. Thank you.
Nice to see a technical view to improve a product.
4:51 the strings seem to be pushing the white saddle downward. 5:02 the strings seem to increase the pressure on the saddle in a forward direction. If that white saddle was plastic it seems it it might break or chip. So in my opinion this might be a problem for the usual guitar.
Interesting; my Martin D-45 does not have this BUT my Martin DC-16GTE does have the slots cut into the bridge. Both were bought new, so it is Martin that did this "Mod" on the lower priced guitar but not the higher priced one.
woooow.... very evident! i am amazed how the tone even changed. I expected a bit of brightness and volume (really, more volume that makes the bright tones more clear) but the added sustain and tone.... holy crap. I need do this immediately.
I got half way through and had to comment. We were talking about the vibrations of the strings getting transferred to the body. Part of it is through the contact with the bridge and part through the contact with the pin hole and the pin. Plastic pins would dampen some of the transfer. That could be improved with bone or wood pins. The slot affords closer contact with the wood decreasing the damping effect of plastic pins.
Note the mic placement is different when showing the slotted sound.
I like the change. It sounds fuller with more resonance. It might be losing a little bit of high end frequencies so I guess its personal choice but it's nice to know how to make that change according to what you prefer.
There's more mid range, less treble, with a bass boost. I usually mix mid range down by setting the graphic equalizer in a "V" pattern, since that range tends to be dominant. But the change creates a very pleasing tonal mix in the mid range, and sounds more full. I could tell you were digging the tones, because the sound made you ad lib more after the change. I have a Martin guitar and I'm going to put this fix in!