Only just found your channel, been looking for ways to improve at pc2 and this video has helped a lot with my wheel settings. Its like im playing a new game. You've earned a subscriber :)
The spikes are because you have Surface Detail/ Suspension at 110. Tone at 55 gives you 45 suspension detail and FX at 65 gives you 65 suspension detail. So you are spiking because your FFB is trying to give you more suspension detail then allowed. If you want FX higher(suspension/surface detail) then also turn Tone up, to lower suspension/surface detail. I have my Tone higher 80-100 to get tyre slip detail/ less suspension detail through Tone but having Fx 40-60 makes up for the surface detail/ suspension lost.
Thanks so much for this video and to all those who are in the comments.this really is the only video of the many I've watched which truly helps thank you
I like the feedback on default. I dont understand why some say they needed to change the settings. I wasnt too impressed with pCARS 2 to start with, but I've stuck with the game and put a lot more time in to it, and now i appreciate just how good it actually is, specially the physics. The tyre model is pretty damned incredible. Its as good as Assetto Corsa in my opinion, in fact its probably slightly better, and it also has more content.
I felt this exact way, stuck with it and it's crazy how you can lose control turn it into a drift, and just stay on track all the while screaming arghhhhhh!!!
Love your videos Yorkie and I remember you saying that you were doing some work for Slightly Mad Studios for Project CARS 2. My point is why on earth did tjey not bring Jack Spade onboard for the ffb?? There are a ton of console users who have been shafted by the lack of a custom setting or access to his tweaker files.
i use immersive myself and for me feels good, i trained myself to not just feel but also see when my car does what in just hundreds of seconds. i drive controller on some other games so thats why i need to train that. this way i also dont care for feeling les of some detail on this seting, the steering feels smooth and stil got just enough curb detail and watersplash feeling
14:32 The most useful is missing... you can't adjust "Gain" on the fly. Especially, this have to be changed in every car a little bit to use the full bandwith of the wheel without clipping
Excellent hands-on video thanks. It makes the FFB elements much easier to understand. In the HUD FFB histogram, I see the right red bar is the level of clipping and the white horizontal bar is the overall FFB strength, but what do each of the 5 green vertical bars represent?
Thanks for the video Yorkie, but as a longer term viewer I was confused by your VOLUME 55 setting a little. Because when you were using the LDFGT wheel, you always talked about preferring a very "light" feeling - especially with your "How to drive the Nordschleife" tutorial. So I guess your new wheel changes that somewhat, now that you are using the "higher" force of Volume 55?
Curious did you try the Jack Spade files? I really like them with my Fanatec v2.5 base. Might try checking to see if I am clipping at all now since I understand the FFB HUD now thanks to your vid!
I don’t understand what exactly is going on but I just don’t notice any difference in the wheel at all when the tires slip. I’m using a Thrustmaster TS-XW which is a small step up from the t300. I’m using your settings on raw but just can’t tell any difference from normal driving to the tires slipping, I’ve heard the wheel is supposed to go lighter but I just don’t feel it and idk why
I also use the T300 but on the ps4. For me it feels a bit strange to be honest. The wheel has quite some „play“ even if the deadzone is set to 0 and also there is like no FFB around the center position of the wheel when I am driving, is that normal? And the FFB doesnt seem to be that detailed, for example: When I drive at spa the wheel wont react at all to some curbs. I tried many different settings for the FFB, maybe it is just the game? I only got the wheel recently and I remember playing F1 2013 with the Driving Force GT, not the best wheel but I remember that the FFB was pretty detailed, good feedback from curbs and roadsurface. Does somebody have some advice? For me the T300 right now just feels „heavy“ but not very accurate or detailed.
I'd go back and start again, re-calibrate your wheel, set your FFB settings to default and go from there. The FFB is all physics driven so if the curb is smooth then you won't feel it, where-as you would get more feel from saw-tooth curbs. Informative might be a flavour to go with to get more detail through, but there aren't any canned effects, as it's more the feel of the tyre slip that needs to be felt through the FFB to get an idea of what it is doing.
Hi Matt - as always, great videos. If i calibrate the steering as the instruction indicates, my wheel rotation is WAY too large...almost like driving a truck. Is there a way to set it so that my complete rotation when racing is only around 65-75 degrees? I just feel that it would be more comfortable to make smaller turns when racing. I'm new to sim racing, so bear with me if this questions has been answered somewhere else already.
You want that large rotation though. My wheel is 900 degrees of rotation in total. Having it limited to about 75 degrees each way is going to make it ultra sensitive and twitchy around the middle.
Thrustmaster TX Leather xbox one Raw or informative? (Is this a "cheaper wheel?")as there are so many wheel options. What is a good track to test FFB? Thanks for the help.
Great video, enjoying watching it. Could you share your windows ffb settings please? I've the same wheel so I'm keen to mirror the thrustmaster control panel settings too. Thanks!
I have DD wheel SimuCube. Using Raw flavour and It is great but one problem with it is that when I hit the call the force is really too strong. I don't know how to decrease strength under such situations. I think hit into the wall is too strong. Which parameter is responsible for hiting wall force? Tone / Volume / FX. I tried decrease FX to 0 but this is not it.
Do you have a good setting on t300 for feeling understeer “push” and loss of control of the front end !? I️ can’t get it to feel like I️ can in other sims like AC Rfactor2 RR or Automobilista
Dave Rona running lower tone will give you more of the Mz force through the wheel. This is the rotational force felt at the front tires, and will tell you a lot more about understeer. Try a tone setting down around 35. You’ll have to run volume a little higher, because Mz forces are weaker than Fy. Note that you may find it harder to catch oversteer with these settings. It takes time to adjust.
Any good Force Feedback settings for PC2 PS4 with Logitech G29 ? i have volume, tone, fx to 50. gain 40 & menu spring strength 0.40. I am starting not to like the ffb in PC2 it feels strange, the ffb in gt sport is way better than PC2.
Fantastic video, do you have any suggestions for a Logitech G920 on xbox one. I'm kinda lost on which flavour and their respective values i.e tone, fx etc....
I know I'm probably the only one that doesn't how the telemetry bars work after your explanation. But I'm still confused how to use the bars and graph to check to see if my wheel is clipping.
I run multiple racing Sims. Should I set my Thrustmaster control panel to 100%overall strength and change in each game? Not sure how the best way to go about it would be so I am not constantly changing settings in game and control panel depending on the SIM I am playing.
I have mine set to 80% I believe in overall strength in the Thrustmaster Control Panel. Some games you can turn down the FFB in the games settings, but some others (like PC2 here) recommend you keep the main setting at 100% in-game, and adjust the rest or the Control Panel accordingly. Saying that though, it is extremely rare that I have to fiddle with the Thrustmaster Control panel, and just adjust the settings in whatever sim I'm playing.
Hi! Any news and updates on the FFB settings after the last PC2 patch? FFb changed a lot and many people are complaining, inclusing me. I play on a PS4 PRO + Fanatec CSL Elite. I read a few seconds ago that for some reasons IMMERSIVE seems more stable and correct as FFB feeling vs the RAW one. Any help? Thanks! Dionysios
Nothing that I know or am aware of. I would try the Immersive and Informative flavours though to see if there are any improvements over what you have / had.
Very very important info here! I got the Xbox One X and the Thrustmaster TX wheel and don't like a heavy wheel because I don't believe it's realistic - my TX wheel feels notchy in PC2 but not so much in other games. How do I remove that notchy feeling? My setting are RAW 100, 30, 54, 54.
You should run with 'informative' for the tx. Ian Bell has said Raw is for direct drive wheels,, informative is for everything else. i changed mine to informative, certainly the most realistic.
You may be able to help me, i use a g29 on ps4, when im driving a clio for instance, when i go into a hairpin and turn the wheel itll turn ffb to a degree then it dies off and the car then turns 90 degrees? Its like ive dropped off the ffb. Its not in all cars but i find it on really twisty, tight tracks?
Need help! I have a T300rs but after 2:30hrs of racing on PCARS2 on ps4 it overheats and shuts down. What FFB are ps4 players using that slowdown the overheating.... I was thinking of cutting an opening in the plastic shell of my wheel and getting an extra fan. Super annoying to have the wheel die and not want to turn back on for 15 min. Please share ideas my way to fix my prob pls. Thanks
Always a problem with the t300 feels better than a Logitech g29 but the g29 will go forever whilst the Thrustmaster is dead on the side of the road lol
My CSW V2 performs pretty good with the F1 Carbon wheel but with the BMW GT2 wheel paired with a Group C car it not good at all. The FFB has to be turned down so low to avoid clipping and snap back to center feeling that it feels like driving an old Caddie with power steering. Like zero weight and resistance in the corners. Maybe they could give us the option to use the ffb tool without having all the other telemetry crap on the screen?
Wheel rim does not change the clipping point at all... Thats because the car itself has a bad FFB multiplier and needs FFB adjustment. But you would also have to do that when you are using the Formula rim.
Informative is probably going to be best suited but try RAW as well and go with what feels better personally. Some wheels handle certain flavours better than others, but some can handle them all and is more down to what you as a user prefer.
Can anyone help me with the TMX settings? I don't think my settings are too bad but I just don't know how to do some things. I cant feel kerbs specifically and I instead feel the road more.
So to feel more curbs and less road, I'd increase FX and increase your Tone. Lowering your 'Volume' setting in the FFB will help to highlight those details through more, but drop the overall weight of the FFB.
It should be able to yes. I would think pretty much any wheel will be able to run the Raw flavour, it's just the higher end wheels do a much better job of communicating the forces through the FFB than a lower end wheel. That is where the informative flavour comes in, and is better suited for the cheaper wheels. The G29 is up there anyway with the wheels on offer from Logitech, so it's just down to you what flavour you prefer.
@@momorious Dont agree. Also using a G29 and my settings are Raw 67/80/0/15. I tried all combinations, also a lot custom ffb files (Jack Spade, Christiaan's and many more) and this one is best. Only with Tone to Zero you can feel a torque drop when car starts to slide.
Clipping is where the FFB output gets to a point where just resistance is felt and no detail. It will usually be in corners, where you're going through a turn and whilst the wheel feels heavy, you won't feel surface detail, curbs or tyre slip. Obviously, that's not good as you need to feel those details through corners. The best way to tell is by using the tools on the telemetry HUD. If that red bar shoots up a lot through a corner, or the line graph goes dead flat whilst turning, you're experiencing clipping. The line graph instead should always be moving up and down showing nice waves and bumps in the graph, and your FFB output bar should be jumping up and down, with as little time in the red as possible.
Put the Gain to 0. Although I am not entirely sure why you would ever want to turn off the FFB as it is highly informative in translating the details of what the car is doing in response to your inputs.
Roswald Cabral it’s on the telemetry screen when your driving bottom left corner there are loads of bars, if the far right bar has red in it it means your getting clipping and need to reduce settings cause damage to your wheel
Roswald Cabral the other bars don’t matter they are just showing you information, it’s just the bar on the right you don’t want any red in the bar really as means your losing detail
@@Aaron458f gotcha. Thank you Aaron. I am using Logitech G920 on Xbox One, do you think the Feedback settings will be same? I've tried to look for Logitech g920 settings for Xbox one. Not much luck thou
It is where your wheel receives a ffb signal that is greater than what your wheel can manage. Most often occurs when in corners and your ffb is loaded with resistance, and hitting say a curb but you don't feel it or any other details, but just solid resistance, that is clipping. It's bad because it blocks important detail and information about what your car is doing, the bumps of the track and if any of the tyres are braking traction. So typically you aim to have the ffb at a level where you don't fully load up the ffb when turning and hitting a big curb mid way through a corner won't cause the ffb to clip, or only clip for a millisecond, so that you can feel the detail to help you retain better control of the car.
This game makes angry what the he'll is going on with the physics cars are just unmanageable unless you get used to the bullshit that it has to offer. It just makes no sense that this is the only game I can't drive for shit unlike gtsport and assetto corsa I was able to put my own real life experience and be able to drive decently since the very first time I played both, by all means I'm not a pro by long run but at least I'm able to defend my self on those games, project cars 2 not so much I'm complete shit to the point not to get off the third turn on the nurburgring. I feel that pcars 1 looked and drives better, I'm here with the hopes that maybe any of your videos will help to save my self from Insanity and pcars2 from complete and absolute deletion.
Very good series but that music sucks hard. Not only because I don't like the genre but these specific instruments and beats give me a headache after a few minutes. It's physically painful to listen to. Makes me think whether to watch the rest of the series regardless of how interested I am. A bit more "neutral" music would have been a better choice. An important thing that seems to be missing from the video (or the explanation might not be clear enough) is that the steering wheel calibration step can be used to set rotation limits to much less (e.g.: a comfortable -90/+90 degrees) than the limits of the hardware (seems to be -450/+450 in this game that is a bit less than the limits of the t300 hardware). This can be used to apply a (large) "multiplier" on the turning speed. This way the physical wheel has to be rotated much less (5 times less in my case) to achieve the same in-game rotation. Turning is much easier, the buttons and paddle shifters (that are attached to my wheel) are always accessible even while taking a sharp corner. The new settings instantly made me at least an order of magnitude better driver. I'm a complete rookie who played less than 10 hours with his first force feedback steering wheel and I found out only after a couple hours of gameplay that something might be wrong only because turning was incredibly difficult with -450/+450 calibration and the in-game animation of the steering wheel of my GT3 car rotated only within -90/+90 degrees. Even after realising this it was a challenge to figure out how to set up my physical wheel for -90/+90 because almost every instruction suggests that calibration has to be done with the full (physical) range of the wheel (like in case of calibrating other analogue input devices) so I was looking for a solution elsewhere. Initially I was looking for some kind of "sensitivity" but I found only a "steering wheel sensitivity" setting that couldn't solve my problem. Instead of hacking the calibration it would probably be better to have some kind of sensitivity setting (perhaps a global one that can be overridden on a per-car basis?) just like in case of other analogue input devices. Well, this setting might exists somewhere hidden from rookies like me. If calibration is the right way to solve the problem (it's actually more intuitive than setting a sensitivity number) then it would be nice to have clearer in-game instructions during calibration (and perhaps optional per-car calibration overrides).
thanks for the really good analysis. However , I don't understand as player why we need to do all these adjustments..the game should come out of the box with one flavour good for any wheel like for AC.Too complicated IMO.
Because when having you have wheels ranging from £50 with FFB as simple as steering resistance, through to £1500+ Direct Driver wheels with FFB matching real world forces, i.e. strong enough to break your wrists if you hold the wheel hitting a wall, 1 FFB flavour can not fit/be suitable for all. Then people have their own personal preferences as to what they want from their FFB, hence the reason for providing options for players. If you have only 1 flavour, people may not like that and be turned away from the game. If you provide options, your more likely to satisfy a greater range of people.
I get it but on the other hand if you want a simulation experience you have to spend at least 300 bucks to start with. I own a G29 and I can tell you ( and I am not the only one) that the G29 on PC2 behaves not really well whilst on Assetto is really good. To me this is a development issue and it has nothing to do with the quality of the wheel.
Seems to work amazingly well in AC having just 1 FFB setting from wheel to wheel. Trying your RAW settings on PS4 with T300 just doesnt seem to work with very little FFB effects going on. The fact JOS has had to rescue PC FFB again speak volumes.
Wasn't aware of the auto-scaling, explains why it feels like it is changing all the time. Am on PC too so will move it to 100% and adjust on my CSW V2, move to raw and see how we go, cheers.
Dj Dj thanks for the input , I'm playing gt sport with a g29 because of lack of tracks and online only I'm getting bored of gt sport , Got burned on pc1 , been thinking of getting pc2 but after reading your comment about the g29 on pc2 I'll think I'll pass ,
Which Logitech wheel is "high end" which should default to Raw? NEVER use raw with a Logitech! Logitechs actually defaulting to Immersive. Also T300 is no High End wheel and doesn't default to Raw, the T300 defaults to Informative.
I don't use a T300 wheel. Perhaps this is best titled, "FFB for T300 Wheels"? Also, your explanation of differences between Raw, Informative, etc., is terribly vague at best. Really, I enjoyed your comp. driving videos 1000 times more.Get back to that.
Unfortunately I don't have access to other wheels, so I can't give out settings for those. The google sheet, and this video has info there that can be used by users who do use other wheels, to help and go about ways of setting up their own FFB, and a bit of digging around online can often lead to finding other peoples settings that they're happy with and have shared. The other actual racing videos I am hoping to start doing again, my only issue at the moment is finding the time to do them. When I do, I will be uploading them for certain :)
This sim is arcade compared to assetto corsa or iracing,the ffb feels terrible,rattling on a g27 where the other sims have a smoothing or filtering adjustment which removes the rattling,unplayable this sim with a g27.
Guessing you didn't pay attention to the video and just came to it to bitch, right? I explain in the video how you can adjust things to get it to how you want the FFB to feel and if you want a smoother experience, turn down the FX slider and adjust the tone more towards tyre slip. In Project CARS 2, everything you feel through the FFB is derived straight from the physics with it going up through the attached components up through the steering rack to the wheel. No canned effects that you find elsewhere.
I always understand _'Germany'_ when you say _'generally'_ o.O Speaking of _'generally'_ , you should urgently revise your vocabulary. Every second word is _'basically, actually, obviously, generally'_ ... I only missed the Kardashian's _'literally'_ (not), then the collection of the most over- and abused English words would've been complete. But I had to stop the vid anyway after 16 min, for I couldn't stand it any longer. Maybe _'literally'_ was just waiting around the corner. ;)
Only just found your channel, been looking for ways to improve at pc2 and this video has helped a lot with my wheel settings. Its like im playing a new game. You've earned a subscriber :)
The spikes are because you have Surface Detail/ Suspension at 110. Tone at 55 gives you 45 suspension detail and FX at 65 gives you 65 suspension detail. So you are spiking because your FFB is trying to give you more suspension detail then allowed. If you want FX higher(suspension/surface detail) then also turn Tone up, to lower suspension/surface detail. I have my Tone higher 80-100 to get tyre slip detail/ less suspension detail through Tone but having Fx 40-60 makes up for the surface detail/ suspension lost.
So which pairs should add up to 100 ?
This was by far the best FFB explanation and tutorial I have come across! Nice work. I am looking for to seeing more of those brilliant episodes.
Another awesome video Matt, thanks
Im glad i watched this because i was completly misreading what those little bars were showing!
Glad it helped you out.
Thanks so much for this video and to all those who are in the comments.this really is the only video of the many I've watched which truly helps thank you
Nice video! I use RAW 100/50/60/75 and just adjust the volume from car to car. T300 On PC.
I like the feedback on default. I dont understand why some say they needed to change the settings.
I wasnt too impressed with pCARS 2 to start with, but I've stuck with the game and put a lot more time in to it, and now i appreciate just how good it actually is, specially the physics. The tyre model is pretty damned incredible. Its as good as Assetto Corsa in my opinion, in fact its probably slightly better, and it also has more content.
I felt this exact way, stuck with it and it's crazy how you can lose control turn it into a drift, and just stay on track all the while screaming arghhhhhh!!!
Well done. The best tutorial for Project cars 2 on RUclips. Thank you. Glad I found this video.
Thanks, make sure to check out the rest of the series too ;)
Thank you for your videos. Much Appreciated!
Love your videos Yorkie and I remember you saying that you were doing some work for Slightly Mad Studios for Project CARS 2. My point is why on earth did tjey not bring Jack Spade onboard for the ffb?? There are a ton of console users who have been shafted by the lack of a custom setting or access to his tweaker files.
Damn fine video / tutorial 👍🏼, thanks!
i use immersive myself and for me feels good, i trained myself to not just feel but also see when my car does what in just hundreds of seconds. i drive controller on some other games so thats why i need to train that. this way i also dont care for feeling les of some detail on this seting, the steering feels smooth and stil got just enough curb detail and watersplash feeling
Great Vid. can't wait for you to explain how to edit / upload race clips. I have looked all over and asked friends but nobody can explain HOW!
14:32 The most useful is missing... you can't adjust "Gain" on the fly. Especially, this have to be changed in every car a little bit to use the full bandwith of the wheel without clipping
These videos are so useful! Thank you!
Excellent hands-on video thanks. It makes the FFB elements much easier to understand.
In the HUD FFB histogram, I see the right red bar is the level of clipping and the white horizontal bar is the overall FFB strength, but what do each of the 5 green vertical bars represent?
The other bars are just the various stages/amounts of output, I believe 0-20%, 20-40%, 40-60 etc etc.
Great content, as always... Would love to see a video on how you would use Jussi's suspension calculator to help set up your car...
Thanks for the video Yorkie, but as a longer term viewer I was confused by your VOLUME 55 setting a little. Because when you were using the LDFGT wheel, you always talked about preferring a very "light" feeling - especially with your "How to drive the Nordschleife" tutorial. So I guess your new wheel changes that somewhat, now that you are using the "higher" force of Volume 55?
Nice vid. Watched the whole video not sure if I missed it. Are you on PC or console? Are those setting suitable for PS4? Thanks
Curious did you try the Jack Spade files? I really like them with my Fanatec v2.5 base. Might try checking to see if I am clipping at all now since I understand the FFB HUD now thanks to your vid!
I don’t understand what exactly is going on but I just don’t notice any difference in the wheel at all when the tires slip. I’m using a Thrustmaster TS-XW which is a small step up from the t300. I’m using your settings on raw but just can’t tell any difference from normal driving to the tires slipping, I’ve heard the wheel is supposed to go lighter but I just don’t feel it and idk why
I also use the T300 but on the ps4. For me it feels a bit strange to be honest. The wheel has quite some „play“ even if the deadzone is set to 0 and also there is like no FFB around the center position of the wheel when I am driving, is that normal? And the FFB doesnt seem to be that detailed, for example: When I drive at spa the wheel wont react at all to some curbs. I tried many different settings for the FFB, maybe it is just the game? I only got the wheel recently and I remember playing F1 2013 with the Driving Force GT, not the best wheel but I remember that the FFB was pretty detailed, good feedback from curbs and roadsurface. Does somebody have some advice? For me the T300 right now just feels „heavy“ but not very accurate or detailed.
I'd go back and start again, re-calibrate your wheel, set your FFB settings to default and go from there. The FFB is all physics driven so if the curb is smooth then you won't feel it, where-as you would get more feel from saw-tooth curbs. Informative might be a flavour to go with to get more detail through, but there aren't any canned effects, as it's more the feel of the tyre slip that needs to be felt through the FFB to get an idea of what it is doing.
Thanks for your help! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Extremely helpful!! Thanks 👍🏻
Hi Matt - as always, great videos. If i calibrate the steering as the instruction indicates, my wheel rotation is WAY too large...almost like driving a truck. Is there a way to set it so that my complete rotation when racing is only around 65-75 degrees? I just feel that it would be more comfortable to make smaller turns when racing. I'm new to sim racing, so bear with me if this questions has been answered somewhere else already.
You want that large rotation though. My wheel is 900 degrees of rotation in total. Having it limited to about 75 degrees each way is going to make it ultra sensitive and twitchy around the middle.
Thrustmaster TX Leather xbox one Raw or informative? (Is this a "cheaper wheel?")as there are so many wheel options. What is a good track to test FFB? Thanks for the help.
Try both but I imagine Informative will probably be better. And Brands Hatch would be a good track to test FFB on as it is laser scanned.
Just found this video, superb, very helpful.
Excellent video! Thanks!
Great video, enjoying watching it. Could you share your windows ffb settings please? I've the same wheel so I'm keen to mirror the thrustmaster control panel settings too. Thanks!
My settings are in the video
Hey Matt will you do another video about the FFB after the 1.4 patch that came out this days? (I use a T300 Alcantara Edition)
I have DD wheel SimuCube. Using Raw flavour and It is great but one problem with it is that when I hit the call the force is really too strong. I don't know how to decrease strength under such situations. I think hit into the wall is too strong. Which parameter is responsible for hiting wall force? Tone / Volume / FX. I tried decrease FX to 0 but this is not it.
Please do a guide for multiplayer ranking
Certainly one being considered for the future.
It will be awesome!!
Elo math! :) Has been a real blast trying to explain this stuff on the forum.
Weren't you supposed to let go after turning the wheel all the way to re center then do 900°?
Impressive thank you sir :) , i have just one question can you please make a a drifting guide ?
Maybe one day when I learn to drift properly.
Thank you, so very informative. Any FFB tips for a G27 on the PS4 (with a converter) ?
@yorkie065 have you got any decent settings for Fanstec csl? Cheers
clutch video my man 👊
Cheers for the videos bro, helped a lot !👊
I'm glad I found you
Do you have a good setting on t300 for feeling understeer “push” and loss of control of the front end !? I️ can’t get it to feel like I️ can in other sims like AC Rfactor2 RR or Automobilista
Dave Rona running lower tone will give you more of the Mz force through the wheel. This is the rotational force felt at the front tires, and will tell you a lot more about understeer. Try a tone setting down around 35. You’ll have to run volume a little higher, because Mz forces are weaker than Fy. Note that you may find it harder to catch oversteer with these settings. It takes time to adjust.
Thanks for the video saved my game from being thrown in the bin really love project cars to now thanks a lot
I have just got project cars 2 for Xbox one the line graph for force feed is missing do you have to turn it on ?
Any good Force Feedback settings for PC2 PS4 with Logitech G29 ? i have volume, tone, fx to 50. gain 40 & menu spring strength 0.40.
I am starting not to like the ffb in PC2 it feels strange, the ffb in gt sport is way better than PC2.
Fantastic video, do you have any suggestions for a Logitech G920 on xbox one. I'm kinda lost on which flavour and their respective values i.e tone, fx etc....
I know it's been a while but, have you found some info?
Greetings from Turkey. Thnx, it's awesome.
I know I'm probably the only one that doesn't how the telemetry bars work after your explanation. But I'm still confused how to use the bars and graph to check to see if my wheel is clipping.
I run multiple racing Sims. Should I set my Thrustmaster control panel to 100%overall strength and change in each game? Not sure how the best way to go about it would be so I am not constantly changing settings in game and control panel depending on the SIM I am playing.
I have mine set to 80% I believe in overall strength in the Thrustmaster Control Panel. Some games you can turn down the FFB in the games settings, but some others (like PC2 here) recommend you keep the main setting at 100% in-game, and adjust the rest or the Control Panel accordingly. Saying that though, it is extremely rare that I have to fiddle with the Thrustmaster Control panel, and just adjust the settings in whatever sim I'm playing.
What is that FFB down to the left is called again? I cant get it to show on my game.. Been away for a while :P
I see the Damper setting is at 0% on your windows settings any particular reason for this??
Hi! Any news and updates on the FFB settings after the last PC2 patch? FFb changed a lot and many people are complaining, inclusing me.
I play on a PS4 PRO + Fanatec CSL Elite.
I read a few seconds ago that for some reasons IMMERSIVE seems more stable and correct as FFB feeling vs the RAW one.
Any help?
Thanks!
Dionysios
Nothing that I know or am aware of. I would try the Immersive and Informative flavours though to see if there are any improvements over what you have / had.
@@Yorkie065 Thanks a lot for this, didn't you noticed any changes on the FF side as well? I do and many many other users too. Unfortunately... :(
@@Yorkie065 I always used the RAW flavour but I feel the FF changed a lot since the last update.
Still great content bro thanks alot
What are your ffb settings now?
Do you have problem with gearing? Because i can (with full realism, auto clutch off) switch gears without clutch (Logitech g29 with shifter)
Same. It's highlighted a lot on the forums but nothing has been done to address it.
Most cars in game use sequential gearboxes and require no clutch except for starting the car
Very very important info here! I got the Xbox One X and the Thrustmaster TX wheel and don't like a heavy wheel because I don't believe it's realistic - my TX wheel feels notchy in PC2 but not so much in other games. How do I remove that notchy feeling? My setting are RAW 100, 30, 54, 54.
You should run with 'informative' for the tx. Ian Bell has said Raw is for direct drive wheels,, informative is for everything else. i changed mine to informative, certainly the most realistic.
tiernan rhodes Just changed to Informative 50, 50, 25, 50. Feels amazing! Thanks!
You may be able to help me, i use a g29 on ps4, when im driving a clio for instance, when i go into a hairpin and turn the wheel itll turn ffb to a degree then it dies off and the car then turns 90 degrees? Its like ive dropped off the ffb. Its not in all cars but i find it on really twisty, tight tracks?
Probably the wheel telling you the cars wheels losing traction
@@chrismartin1817 ive sorted it now, i never had the wheel calibrated properly.
@jlc gaming yeah that would help 🤣🤣 glad ya got sorted
@@chrismartin1817 😂😂 yeah, i havent played pc2 in ages, thought i was going nuts.
Need help! I have a T300rs but after 2:30hrs of racing on PCARS2 on ps4 it overheats and shuts down. What FFB are ps4 players using that slowdown the overheating.... I was thinking of cutting an opening in the plastic shell of my wheel and getting an extra fan. Super annoying to have the wheel die and not want to turn back on for 15 min. Please share ideas my way to fix my prob pls. Thanks
do you have the fan forced on?
ruclips.net/video/SmmdA_4z_ak/видео.html
check this out
Always a problem with the t300 feels better than a Logitech g29 but the g29 will go forever whilst the Thrustmaster is dead on the side of the road lol
My CSW V2 performs pretty good with the F1 Carbon wheel but with the BMW GT2 wheel paired with a Group C car it not good at all.
The FFB has to be turned down so low to avoid clipping and snap back to center feeling that it feels like driving an old Caddie with power steering. Like zero weight and resistance in the corners.
Maybe they could give us the option to use the ffb tool without having all the other telemetry crap on the screen?
Wheel rim does not change the clipping point at all... Thats because the car itself has a bad FFB multiplier and needs FFB adjustment. But you would also have to do that when you are using the Formula rim.
momorious The Fanatec BMW wheel is really heavy and big. It takes a lot of power to turn that thing.
OhItsThat yes but it does not change the point where the wheel base will clip. That has nothing to do with the rim.
Hey buddy, what about he PS4 user's? I kindly need some help with the gain, not sure where to adjust it with ESL Elite
As said in the video, on console you just use it to adjust the overall strength. Only on PC do you not touch the Gain setting and leave it at 100.
I have a Logitech momo should I use custome or informative?
Informative. Only use custom if you have tweeked the ffb settings in the .ini file outside the gamr
Problem is, it will all change when the next patch drops :/
Can anyone tell me what flavour i should use for a g25? Awesome video btw thank you so much
Informative is probably going to be best suited but try RAW as well and go with what feels better personally. Some wheels handle certain flavours better than others, but some can handle them all and is more down to what you as a user prefer.
@@Yorkie065 informatif feels the best thanks for the vid man
Do you use PC to play project cars 2? If yes all the settings are completely different from PS4 and XBOX.
If you paid attention to the video, you'd know the answer to one, and heard that I mentioned that for PS4 and Xbox :)
how to permament disable center spring???????how to edit config???? pls its bug since September they didn't fix it!
Can anyone help me with the TMX settings? I don't think my settings are too bad but I just don't know how to do some things. I cant feel kerbs specifically and I instead feel the road more.
I'm on console so I'm not sure of theres a difference
So to feel more curbs and less road, I'd increase FX and increase your Tone. Lowering your 'Volume' setting in the FFB will help to highlight those details through more, but drop the overall weight of the FFB.
We need a fix first on PS4 for the fanatic csl elite, no fx effects at all.
i don’t know for others but in my case the jack spade files makes my fanatec csl p1 wheel shake way to much
is there a way to feel the understeer like in automobilista and rfactor 2 i did allready immersive informative and raw
i am new to sim racing had bad luck with changing things , thx
Yeah, increase the value of 'Tone' to move it more towards the feel for tyre slip.
Can a Logitech G29 run raw force feedback?
It should be able to yes. I would think pretty much any wheel will be able to run the Raw flavour, it's just the higher end wheels do a much better job of communicating the forces through the FFB than a lower end wheel. That is where the informative flavour comes in, and is better suited for the cheaper wheels. The G29 is up there anyway with the wheels on offer from Logitech, so it's just down to you what flavour you prefer.
as it's low end wheel I would not suggest to use RAW with that wheel. Better to use Immersive with this one or Informative.
@@momorious Dont agree. Also using a G29 and my settings are Raw 67/80/0/15. I tried all combinations, also a lot custom ffb files (Jack Spade, Christiaan's and many more) and this one is best. Only with Tone to Zero you can feel a torque drop when car starts to slide.
I cant get my wheel rotation to 900 always 898 or 902
great! many thxs!!!
Menu Spring Strenght = Makeu Spilldrink Strenght
Quality explanation. Sub!
Thanks very much 👍
Should I stick to informative with TM t150?
It would probably work best with that wheel yes.
@@Yorkie065 why?
Wish I had found this before spending hours just experimenting to find what works lol
THX bro............
What does clipping mean?
Clipping is where the FFB output gets to a point where just resistance is felt and no detail. It will usually be in corners, where you're going through a turn and whilst the wheel feels heavy, you won't feel surface detail, curbs or tyre slip. Obviously, that's not good as you need to feel those details through corners. The best way to tell is by using the tools on the telemetry HUD. If that red bar shoots up a lot through a corner, or the line graph goes dead flat whilst turning, you're experiencing clipping. The line graph instead should always be moving up and down showing nice waves and bumps in the graph, and your FFB output bar should be jumping up and down, with as little time in the red as possible.
Yorkie065 ok that's good to know. Thanks for the quick response.
How do you turn off Force Feedback?
Put the Gain to 0. Although I am not entirely sure why you would ever want to turn off the FFB as it is highly informative in translating the details of what the car is doing in response to your inputs.
👍
What do you mean by clipping?
Roswald Cabral it’s on the telemetry screen when your driving bottom left corner there are loads of bars, if the far right bar has red in it it means your getting clipping and need to reduce settings cause damage to your wheel
@@Aaron458f thank you so much for your response. Is the aim then to have a balanced feedback across the other bars?
Roswald Cabral the other bars don’t matter they are just showing you information, it’s just the bar on the right you don’t want any red in the bar really as means your losing detail
@@Aaron458f gotcha. Thank you Aaron. I am using Logitech G920 on Xbox One, do you think the Feedback settings will be same? I've tried to look for Logitech g920 settings for Xbox one. Not much luck thou
Roswald Cabral raw or immersive I’d try start at default see what’s thats like then adjust to what you want to feel from the car without clipping
What is clipping?
It is where your wheel receives a ffb signal that is greater than what your wheel can manage. Most often occurs when in corners and your ffb is loaded with resistance, and hitting say a curb but you don't feel it or any other details, but just solid resistance, that is clipping. It's bad because it blocks important detail and information about what your car is doing, the bumps of the track and if any of the tyres are braking traction. So typically you aim to have the ffb at a level where you don't fully load up the ffb when turning and hitting a big curb mid way through a corner won't cause the ffb to clip, or only clip for a millisecond, so that you can feel the detail to help you retain better control of the car.
This game makes angry what the he'll is going on with the physics cars are just unmanageable unless you get used to the bullshit that it has to offer. It just makes no sense that this is the only game I can't drive for shit unlike gtsport and assetto corsa I was able to put my own real life experience and be able to drive decently since the very first time I played both, by all means I'm not a pro by long run but at least I'm able to defend my self on those games, project cars 2 not so much I'm complete shit to the point not to get off the third turn on the nurburgring. I feel that pcars 1 looked and drives better, I'm here with the hopes that maybe any of your videos will help to save my self from Insanity and pcars2 from complete and absolute deletion.
Very good series but that music sucks hard. Not only because I don't like the genre but these specific instruments and beats give me a headache after a few minutes. It's physically painful to listen to. Makes me think whether to watch the rest of the series regardless of how interested I am. A bit more "neutral" music would have been a better choice.
An important thing that seems to be missing from the video (or the explanation might not be clear enough) is that the steering wheel calibration step can be used to set rotation limits to much less (e.g.: a comfortable -90/+90 degrees) than the limits of the hardware (seems to be -450/+450 in this game that is a bit less than the limits of the t300 hardware). This can be used to apply a (large) "multiplier" on the turning speed. This way the physical wheel has to be rotated much less (5 times less in my case) to achieve the same in-game rotation. Turning is much easier, the buttons and paddle shifters (that are attached to my wheel) are always accessible even while taking a sharp corner. The new settings instantly made me at least an order of magnitude better driver.
I'm a complete rookie who played less than 10 hours with his first force feedback steering wheel and I found out only after a couple hours of gameplay that something might be wrong only because turning was incredibly difficult with -450/+450 calibration and the in-game animation of the steering wheel of my GT3 car rotated only within -90/+90 degrees. Even after realising this it was a challenge to figure out how to set up my physical wheel for -90/+90 because almost every instruction suggests that calibration has to be done with the full (physical) range of the wheel (like in case of calibrating other analogue input devices) so I was looking for a solution elsewhere. Initially I was looking for some kind of "sensitivity" but I found only a "steering wheel sensitivity" setting that couldn't solve my problem. Instead of hacking the calibration it would probably be better to have some kind of sensitivity setting (perhaps a global one that can be overridden on a per-car basis?) just like in case of other analogue input devices. Well, this setting might exists somewhere hidden from rookies like me. If calibration is the right way to solve the problem (it's actually more intuitive than setting a sensitivity number) then it would be nice to have clearer in-game instructions during calibration (and perhaps optional per-car calibration overrides).
thanks for the really good analysis. However , I don't understand as player why we need to do all these adjustments..the game should come out of the box with one flavour good for any wheel like for AC.Too complicated IMO.
Because when having you have wheels ranging from £50 with FFB as simple as steering resistance, through to £1500+ Direct Driver wheels with FFB matching real world forces, i.e. strong enough to break your wrists if you hold the wheel hitting a wall, 1 FFB flavour can not fit/be suitable for all. Then people have their own personal preferences as to what they want from their FFB, hence the reason for providing options for players. If you have only 1 flavour, people may not like that and be turned away from the game. If you provide options, your more likely to satisfy a greater range of people.
I get it but on the other hand if you want a simulation experience you have to spend at least 300 bucks to start with. I own a G29 and I can tell you ( and I am not the only one) that the G29 on PC2 behaves not really well whilst on Assetto is really good.
To me this is a development issue and it has nothing to do with the quality of the wheel.
Seems to work amazingly well in AC having just 1 FFB setting from wheel to wheel. Trying your RAW settings on PS4 with T300 just doesnt seem to work with very little FFB effects going on.
The fact JOS has had to rescue PC FFB again speak volumes.
Wasn't aware of the auto-scaling, explains why it feels like it is changing all the time. Am on PC too so will move it to 100% and adjust on my CSW V2, move to raw and see how we go, cheers.
Dj Dj thanks for the input , I'm playing gt sport with a g29 because of lack of tracks and online only I'm getting bored of gt sport ,
Got burned on pc1 , been thinking of getting pc2 but after reading your comment about the g29 on pc2 I'll think I'll pass ,
nice vid, music's too loud ;-)
Which Logitech wheel is "high end" which should default to Raw? NEVER use raw with a Logitech! Logitechs actually defaulting to Immersive.
Also T300 is no High End wheel and doesn't default to Raw, the T300 defaults to Informative.
That's interesting. My T300 (or the RS) defaults to Raw, so perhaps there is a difference between those two?
My t300 has RAW as default, im on ps4
Possible that it was changed with a patch. In WMD2 times is was defaulting to Informative
Incorrect, all Thrustmaster wheel profiles in PC2 default to RAW.
SternLX yes as said adjusted in Patch 2. But I think TM wheels are not powerful enough to really benefit from RAW.
certain things I didn't know but you just read out the screen...
seems the devs have fucked up once again...
Sorry i accidentally hit thumb down but fixed it. Late coming to this game but better late than never.
Horrible rattling with a g27 in this sim.
I CANT EVEN FUCKING GET THE SHITTY WHEEL WORKING FUCK THIS.
I don't use a T300 wheel. Perhaps this is best titled, "FFB for T300 Wheels"? Also, your explanation of differences between Raw, Informative, etc., is terribly vague at best. Really, I enjoyed your comp. driving videos 1000 times more.Get back to that.
Unfortunately I don't have access to other wheels, so I can't give out settings for those. The google sheet, and this video has info there that can be used by users who do use other wheels, to help and go about ways of setting up their own FFB, and a bit of digging around online can often lead to finding other peoples settings that they're happy with and have shared.
The other actual racing videos I am hoping to start doing again, my only issue at the moment is finding the time to do them. When I do, I will be uploading them for certain :)
This sim is arcade compared to assetto corsa or iracing,the ffb feels terrible,rattling on a g27 where the other sims have a smoothing or filtering adjustment which removes the rattling,unplayable this sim with a g27.
Guessing you didn't pay attention to the video and just came to it to bitch, right? I explain in the video how you can adjust things to get it to how you want the FFB to feel and if you want a smoother experience, turn down the FX slider and adjust the tone more towards tyre slip.
In Project CARS 2, everything you feel through the FFB is derived straight from the physics with it going up through the attached components up through the steering rack to the wheel. No canned effects that you find elsewhere.
I always understand _'Germany'_ when you say _'generally'_ o.O Speaking of _'generally'_ , you should urgently revise your vocabulary. Every second word is _'basically, actually, obviously, generally'_ ... I only missed the Kardashian's _'literally'_ (not), then the collection of the most over- and abused English words would've been complete. But I had to stop the vid anyway after 16 min, for I couldn't stand it any longer. Maybe _'literally'_ was just waiting around the corner. ;)