Lmao! Fair. The amount of silence and even more talking I cut out is drastic, hard to get all the info into a reasonable length video. I’ll cut out less of the silence in the videos in the future. For now, I will be uploading raw uncut track footage for my members page if that sort of content interests you. There’s both a lot of silence, and a lot more talking.
Finally someone who has mentioned and used the FR setup on this chassis, Every other video I've seen on this kit they've failed to mention the FR setup. Good informative video Rex.
When I first saw this kit, I was instantly sold on front engine/rear wheel drive configuration. Seems my bias is confirmed, but having to drive the mid motor layout differently is a bonus. Thanks for taking the time to drive the model and highlighting its traits in each layout.
Excellent non-review, Rex! Lol! I'm absolutely shocked that the FR setup worked as well as it did. I completely wrote it off, assuming it was more of a gimmick than anything else. You said it best towards the end of the video, Tamiya knows what they're doing! - Great stuff pal!
Very nice rundown of the chassis and it was great to see it out on the track! Mine should be here next week and I do look forward to building this new chassis. Thanks for all the info and for taking the time to get all this together in one video Rex! Take care and have a great weekend!
Now what we need is a RWD drift chassis (that may be usable for touring or rally) that uses a twin vertical plate system so you can easily switch between high CG and low CG by simply unbolting the front and rear subframes from the center rib, flipping said rib, and bolting them back on the other side. Ideally, it'd be a transverse motor AND you can switch between front motor, front-mid(behind shock tower), rear mid, and rear motor(911 style). Or if I can only pick two, front mid and rear mid. Bonus points if it uses a telescoping or easily sizable shaft (or multiple sizes available) to transfer power from front to rear on the front motor configs instead of a belt. Also, low CG is motor low, shaft or belt high, and battery under the shaft or belt. High CG is the opposite. Of course, nothing's stopping anyone from also making their own battery mount to make high CG even higher or low CG sorta mixed/medium CG.
Thanks for posting this. I pre-ordered this chassis in November, got it a few weeks ago and was hesitant to build straight into Front motor RWD. Now that’s the confident plan.
Awesome reflections and commentary on this new model. I also like your metaphor usage! We just started Newfoundland's very first and only RC race club. For now we use cones to mark out the track, and the track, for now, is a gym floor. So more drift hooning. It is my first taste of racing. I'm hooked! Thanks for sharing your expertise dude!
When I first saw this kit shown I was initially stoked, and really wanted to build a FR chassis Supra... and may still do so. I would definitely want a hoter motor like a Torque Tuned , and likely adjust the gearing ... after seeing this video, I'm not totally sold... I may still build one eventually, just for fun... but I was really hoping Tamiya would put out a car with STEERING components that would allow for a car that tracks straight and turns with at least a decent level of precision. I have multiple Tamiya RCs and a few TT02 onroad cars, the one thing I dislike the most about every Tamiya kit i have built is that the steering always sucks... that 1 aspect really makes them a lot less fun to drive, and more prone to accidents and wrecks. Maybe I need to change my expextations for these car kits and just use them in a totally different manner... Cheers, and thanks for the videos!
I did not know that the mid engine could be low or high mont for the motor, thats interesting. I ordered this chassis at Christmas and it is on the way right now, its a very intriguing setup. This is probably the best review i have seen so far, awesome that you got it in the track in all the different setups 👍 Also like the fact it uses the tt02 diffs, that opens up some more tunning options
Really fun seeing you take on this new chassis in such a comprehensive way. Also, you should glue the front tire sidewalls with CA glue(same as racetrucks), you'll mitigate some of the traction rolling effect that way, even on touring cars (local high grip track, eveyrone glues their sidewalls on the touring cars). Supra looks super nice :D Oh yeah, and if you're feeling like you want to try another tamiya front motor, rear wheeldrive chassis, take the diff and driveshafts out of the ta03F, and you got a front motor, rearwheel drive chassis ;D
Thanks a lot for the effort, Rex. Looks really like an interesting and fun car in every config. I wouldn't mind to see how it performs outdoors on asphalt, too. Because there's no race track far and wide for me, and probably most other people. :/ Hope there'll be some of the fine blue aluminium parts soon, for the typical wonky Tamiya standard steering.
Awesome! Form the way you describe the Mr setup it sounds just like a real one. I remember upgrading to bearing in my futaba fx10 back in the 80s. I didn't get much for allowance so I'd buy 2 at a time because they were a few $ each. Being able to buy a whole set for $15 now is mind blowing. Black or silver supras were always the fastest ones😂
You didn't earn my subscription...but, that because you already had it. 😁 When I first heard about this chassis kit, I had a feeling that the FR config would be the best handling...and, your footage & commentary confirmed my suspicions. What I'd like to see next from Tamiya is a higher-end kit with the same multi-option config. To compare against/with Tamiya's other offerings, the TT-02 is their low-end, the TRF420 is their high-end, and something like the TA08 Pro is their competitive mid-range. I'm sure you would agree that, in terms of parts quality, as well as 'what' the BT-01 comes with, it is somewhat equivalent to the TT-02. What I think many would like to see (I KNOW I would) is a chassis kit similar to the BT-01, but with a quality that's more like the TA08 Pro...still mostly affordable, but much more competitive, and coming with higher-quality parts.
This chassis needs more body options. Like some Camaro, challenger, trans am, corvette kind of options. Setup as front motor rwd. Or maybe a low slung truck like a square body Chevy, ford or dodge would be cool, and some drift wheel options too
Front mounted motor and rear-wheel drive is more realistic for the supra body anyways. I want to see you two different configurations with the mb01 again please.
@rexrcs So i have tried it finally. I must say that rear axle is very sensitive to toe adjustments. If it is not equally adjusted, then the car doesn't drive on a straight line. For a proper drive, I would need a ball diff like my FF01. But i have enjoyed and i am happy with the car. You can see the specs and how it drives in this video that I have made: ruclips.net/video/db-PAPIFViU/видео.htmlsi=rVRzelRE7AdD344f
Interesting and well informed commentary, nice clip thanks for taking the considerable time build, film and edit this! Also, glad to see / hear your 1:1 is a manual. What you running 1:1?
huh suprising that so much of the slop is comming from tamiya's ball ends, on my TT-02 i have some ali express / year racing and tamiya ball ends used throughout and the ali express are useless (ultra tight) the year racing are borderline useless (still really tight so on the TT-02 it will mangle the stock steering...as in torque a screw out of it's hole) and tamiya's which i may have gotten a good batch from cause they spin freely but have practically no slop to speak off, thought they were more consistent : / also on the bearing front, that the kitt might not come with it oke, some people just wanna build it and put it on a shelf. but it extends to there motors >.> even the BZ/RZ/TZ probably the highest end brushed motors they offer and still bushings. at that point even if it doesnt make it faster just toss em in for the bling and having a "final form" brushed motor :P i'd go brushless but it's expensive and seems to go hand in hand with LIPO which i don't want to use (anything that should definetly be stored in a fire proof bag is not for me :P)
just finished mine and hot damn those ball end's are no joke >.> started by shimming the arms to have minimal play thinking that would eliminate most of it but nope it's indeed the ball ends (and in the front i'm sure i could have shimmed around the king pin's and the pivot point's but the ball end's are really 90% of the play and i don't know about you but the king pin's were insanely hard to get in there for me >.
I’ve seen that with poor boys rc, but mine doesnt have the slop that I see on his. I must add that i have the low friction suspension pivots, which were tighter than the plastic balls. Where do you see the looseness from?
Bro, Thank so much for making this video ! I am considering getting a BT used in the future as they are expensive currently. My question for you is do you think the battery is too high in the front engine rear wheel drive configuration ? it seems as a contributing factor for traction roll. Lastly, what kind of manual car are you driving in this video ? It sounds like my 92 Accord EX 5 speed :)
Hey civicguy, thanks! In regards to the battery position in the FR mode I think it help to add traction to the rear, in my case on a high grip carpet surface I dont need that extra grip, but on asphalt, its welcomed. Stiffer suspension will reduce a lot of the roll if that becomes an issue. Im driving a Subaru BRZ, although my first car was a 1990 Accord EX-R
When you change it to RWD, did you also change the suspension arms? I am asking as in the manual MR setup, the rear arms have restrictors on them, and the rear arms become the front arms
@@rexrcs Hi Rex, I did not see that in the instructions but it makes sense to do so, I have been meaning to change mine but have been busy in the workshop
Sorry, but saying that kit does not include bearings, because basic chassis is like stand for body is... at least strange. Tamiya has excellent static models, which are far better than even the best RC shells. I like Tamiya and do not want to buy kits from other brands, but defending them no matter what they do is not right. If it is like you said, why they include motor and quite often ESC to their kits? Static model does not require them. You said that bearings are expensive. No, they are not. Tamiya bearings are expensive, because they have Tamiya logo. Such a big company, which needs milions of bearings, can buy them cheap and kit price will increase only just a bit. However, it is much better for company, if you buy cheap kit and then overpriced bearings from they offer. Tamiya is far, far behind competitors.
I love the insight you give on your channel Rex.!! 👍 It's super helpful. Please stay safe out there mate & the very best wishes from Scotland 🏴 🙏 ❤️ 📻 🕹️ 🔋 🚗 🚖 🚕 🚔 🚚 🚙 🚘 🚓 🚒 🚑 🚐 🚎 🚤 🚁 🛩️ 👍 👍
@@rexrcs the engine sound is quite unique. I have the GR86. thanks for this video. best one one youtube to explain the different configurations of the bt-01!
I appreciate you a lot don’t get me wrong, but why you NEVER stop to talk ???!!??? Are you afraid of silence ?
Lmao! Fair. The amount of silence and even more talking I cut out is drastic, hard to get all the info into a reasonable length video. I’ll cut out less of the silence in the videos in the future. For now, I will be uploading raw uncut track footage for my members page if that sort of content interests you. There’s both a lot of silence, and a lot more talking.
@@rexrcs That’s nice 👍
Finally someone who has mentioned and used the FR setup on this chassis, Every other video I've seen on this kit they've failed to mention the FR setup. Good informative video Rex.
When I first saw this kit, I was instantly sold on front engine/rear wheel drive configuration. Seems my bias is confirmed, but having to drive the mid motor layout differently is a bonus. Thanks for taking the time to drive the model and highlighting its traits in each layout.
Love your commentary, very informative and entertaining, thanks for sharing your experience and perspective on rc cars, it's very refreshing
This Will probably be the best video of this chassis with out even reviewing it
Excellent non-review, Rex! Lol! I'm absolutely shocked that the FR setup worked as well as it did. I completely wrote it off, assuming it was more of a gimmick than anything else. You said it best towards the end of the video, Tamiya knows what they're doing! - Great stuff pal!
Thanks!!!! I do have to mention again though my experience was on high grip carpet track, I’m curious on asphalt though
@@rexrcs I made the conversion on mine this weekend and tested it in a parking lot. I really enjoyed it. Shout-out coming your way tomorrow! :)
@@poorboysrc excited to see
Very nice rundown of the chassis and it was great to see it out on the track! Mine should be here next week and I do look forward to building this new chassis. Thanks for all the info and for taking the time to get all this together in one video Rex! Take care and have a great weekend!
Now what we need is a RWD drift chassis (that may be usable for touring or rally) that uses a twin vertical plate system so you can easily switch between high CG and low CG by simply unbolting the front and rear subframes from the center rib, flipping said rib, and bolting them back on the other side.
Ideally, it'd be a transverse motor AND you can switch between front motor, front-mid(behind shock tower), rear mid, and rear motor(911 style). Or if I can only pick two, front mid and rear mid. Bonus points if it uses a telescoping or easily sizable shaft (or multiple sizes available) to transfer power from front to rear on the front motor configs instead of a belt. Also, low CG is motor low, shaft or belt high, and battery under the shaft or belt. High CG is the opposite.
Of course, nothing's stopping anyone from also making their own battery mount to make high CG even higher or low CG sorta mixed/medium CG.
Thanks for posting this. I pre-ordered this chassis in November, got it a few weeks ago and was hesitant to build straight into Front motor RWD. Now that’s the confident plan.
Very nice breakdown and comparison. That picture of the vending machine on a tree was super cool, too! Thanks for the history lesson. 😁
Awesome reflections and commentary on this new model. I also like your metaphor usage! We just started Newfoundland's very first and only RC race club. For now we use cones to mark out the track, and the track, for now, is a gym floor. So more drift hooning. It is my first taste of racing. I'm hooked! Thanks for sharing your expertise dude!
When I first saw this kit shown I was initially stoked, and really wanted to build a FR chassis Supra... and may still do so. I would definitely want a hoter motor like a Torque Tuned , and likely adjust the gearing ... after seeing this video, I'm not totally sold... I may still build one eventually, just for fun... but I was really hoping Tamiya would put out a car with STEERING components that would allow for a car that tracks straight and turns with at least a decent level of precision. I have multiple Tamiya RCs and a few TT02 onroad cars, the one thing I dislike the most about every Tamiya kit i have built is that the steering always sucks... that 1 aspect really makes them a lot less fun to drive, and more prone to accidents and wrecks. Maybe I need to change my expextations for these car kits and just use them in a totally different manner...
Cheers, and thanks for the videos!
wow. Flabbergasted. was not expecting the FR to look like absolute BUTTER. Now it makes me wonder how fun it'd feel off road :o
He's back!! REX is back!!
Now I'm going to watch the vid!👀
I did not know that the mid engine could be low or high mont for the motor, thats interesting.
I ordered this chassis at Christmas and it is on the way right now, its a very intriguing setup.
This is probably the best review i have seen so far, awesome that you got it in the track in all the different setups 👍
Also like the fact it uses the tt02 diffs, that opens up some more tunning options
Really fun seeing you take on this new chassis in such a comprehensive way. Also, you should glue the front tire sidewalls with CA glue(same as racetrucks), you'll mitigate some of the traction rolling effect that way, even on touring cars (local high grip track, eveyrone glues their sidewalls on the touring cars). Supra looks super nice :D Oh yeah, and if you're feeling like you want to try another tamiya front motor, rear wheeldrive chassis, take the diff and driveshafts out of the ta03F, and you got a front motor, rearwheel drive chassis ;D
Thanks a lot for the effort, Rex. Looks really like an interesting and fun car in every config.
I wouldn't mind to see how it performs outdoors on asphalt, too. Because there's no race track far and wide for me, and probably most other people. :/
Hope there'll be some of the fine blue aluminium parts soon, for the typical wonky Tamiya standard steering.
Awesome! Form the way you describe the Mr setup it sounds just like a real one. I remember upgrading to bearing in my futaba fx10 back in the 80s. I didn't get much for allowance so I'd buy 2 at a time because they were a few $ each. Being able to buy a whole set for $15 now is mind blowing. Black or silver supras were always the fastest ones😂
Awesome!!! Nicely done Rex!! Not a review?? Good comparison 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Awesome testing Rex. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. 😊
great video, must be fun to have so many different configurations in one car
You didn't earn my subscription...but, that because you already had it. 😁
When I first heard about this chassis kit, I had a feeling that the FR config would be the best handling...and, your footage & commentary confirmed my suspicions. What I'd like to see next from Tamiya is a higher-end kit with the same multi-option config.
To compare against/with Tamiya's other offerings, the TT-02 is their low-end, the TRF420 is their high-end, and something like the TA08 Pro is their competitive mid-range. I'm sure you would agree that, in terms of parts quality, as well as 'what' the BT-01 comes with, it is somewhat equivalent to the TT-02. What I think many would like to see (I KNOW I would) is a chassis kit similar to the BT-01, but with a quality that's more like the TA08 Pro...still mostly affordable, but much more competitive, and coming with higher-quality parts.
Very cool man! I’m waiting for the XM-01 Pro to be released, in the meantime I’ve Been putting money away for it lol
This chassis needs more body options. Like some Camaro, challenger, trans am, corvette kind of options. Setup as front motor rwd. Or maybe a low slung truck like a square body Chevy, ford or dodge would be cool, and some drift wheel options too
I have a feeling more bodies will come on this chassis for sure! I’d love to see a C5 or C6 on this
Best RC channel.
Thanks for all three setup track test. With the Supra, i build it as the FR for realism. my track test goes outdoor asap.
Yes I must test on asphalt for the full experience
Great video Rex! Hope there is more to come
I enjoy your perspective. Thanks for the content 👍
Videos are getting better 👍 good review.
It is good to see Tamiya innovating. Its not really front motor though being behind the front axle. Great video though, thanks.
true! its more mid front motor
I see em doing an awd version in the future also
Good to see you hope you will do this with the MBO 1.
Front mounted motor and rear-wheel drive is more realistic for the supra body anyways. I want to see you two different configurations with the mb01 again please.
Looks good on track 👌 great review 👍
Love the details of your video.
Great video Rex, thanks
Thanks for this video! Now i will buy one and see how it drives compare to my FF01!
Have fun and tell
Me what you think after you try it
@rexrcs So i have tried it finally. I must say that rear axle is very sensitive to toe adjustments. If it is not equally adjusted, then the car doesn't drive on a straight line. For a proper drive, I would need a ball diff like my FF01. But i have enjoyed and i am happy with the car. You can see the specs and how it drives in this video that I have made:
ruclips.net/video/db-PAPIFViU/видео.htmlsi=rVRzelRE7AdD344f
Interesting and well informed commentary, nice clip thanks for taking the considerable time build, film and edit this! Also, glad to see / hear your 1:1 is a manual. What you running 1:1?
BRZ 😁
What’s your 1/1 car sounds really good 👍
BRZ 😁
@@rexrcs nice 👌
Nice video 👍🏼👍🏼
Interesting. I'm gonna design a FR chassis for 3D printing after seeing this.
interesting!
huh suprising that so much of the slop is comming from tamiya's ball ends, on my TT-02 i have some ali express / year racing and tamiya ball ends used throughout and the ali express are useless (ultra tight) the year racing are borderline useless (still really tight so on the TT-02 it will mangle the stock steering...as in torque a screw out of it's hole) and tamiya's which i may have gotten a good batch from cause they spin freely but have practically no slop to speak off, thought they were more consistent : /
also on the bearing front, that the kitt might not come with it oke, some people just wanna build it and put it on a shelf.
but it extends to there motors >.> even the BZ/RZ/TZ probably the highest end brushed motors they offer and still bushings. at that point even if it doesnt make it faster just toss em in for the bling and having a "final form" brushed motor :P i'd go brushless but it's expensive and seems to go hand in hand with LIPO which i don't want to use (anything that should definetly be stored in a fire proof bag is not for me :P)
just finished mine and hot damn those ball end's are no joke >.>
started by shimming the arms to have minimal play thinking that would eliminate most of it but nope it's indeed the ball ends (and in the front i'm sure i could have shimmed around the king pin's and the pivot point's but the ball end's are really 90% of the play and i don't know about you but the king pin's were insanely hard to get in there for me >.
Mine won't stop wobbling in the rear on FM RWD.
I’ve seen that with poor boys rc, but mine doesnt have the slop that I see on his. I must add that i have the low friction suspension pivots, which were tighter than the plastic balls. Where do you see the looseness from?
He lives!!!
Great video my friend! Info filled and entertaining.
Much appreciated!
Was that Reaper you're using for DAW?
Davinci resolve my friend
@@rexrcs very cool. How would you rate it for doing like podcasts and such
@@BigDumbMeRC its quite comprehensive, but there are AI programs that will chop up a podcast edit in minutes to my understanding
I am planning to get one and convert it to Front motor 4wd
I think I'd rather take a XV-01 for that config.
Bro, Thank so much for making this video ! I am considering getting a BT used in the future as they are expensive currently. My question for you is do you think the battery is too high in the front engine rear wheel drive configuration ? it seems as a contributing factor for traction roll. Lastly, what kind of manual car are you driving in this video ? It sounds like my 92 Accord EX 5 speed :)
Hey civicguy, thanks! In regards to the battery position in the FR mode I think it help to add traction to the rear, in my case on a high grip carpet surface I dont need that extra grip, but on asphalt, its welcomed. Stiffer suspension will reduce a lot of the roll if that becomes an issue. Im driving a Subaru BRZ, although my first car was a 1990 Accord EX-R
Thanks
Can this BT01 be built as a 4WD ??? Not officially but has anyone tried?
Yes, i have posted other youtuber who made it 4wd on my community page
When you change it to RWD, did you also change the suspension arms? I am asking as in the manual MR setup, the rear arms have restrictors on them, and the rear arms become the front arms
The restrictors are also changed when changing the drivetrain setup, I however missed that step in this video 🤦🏻♂️
@@rexrcs Hi Rex, I did not see that in the instructions but it makes sense to do so, I have been meaning to change mine but have been busy in the workshop
Do you need parts not included in the kit to build the FR configuration ?
Everything is included
You earned the sub 👍🏻
I would so be tempted to put the body on backwards to mess with other drivers 😂
Hmmmm, thats a great idea to mess with people
Sorry, but saying that kit does not include bearings, because basic chassis is like stand for body is... at least strange. Tamiya has excellent static models, which are far better than even the best RC shells. I like Tamiya and do not want to buy kits from other brands, but defending them no matter what they do is not right.
If it is like you said, why they include motor and quite often ESC to their kits? Static model does not require them.
You said that bearings are expensive. No, they are not. Tamiya bearings are expensive, because they have Tamiya logo. Such a big company, which needs milions of bearings, can buy them cheap and kit price will increase only just a bit. However, it is much better for company, if you buy cheap kit and then overpriced bearings from they offer.
Tamiya is far, far behind competitors.
I've heard that Tamiya models make for excellent shelf-queens too.
I love the insight you give on your channel Rex.!! 👍
It's super helpful.
Please stay safe out there mate & the very best wishes from Scotland 🏴 🙏 ❤️ 📻 🕹️ 🔋 🚗 🚖 🚕 🚔 🚚 🚙 🚘 🚓 🚒 🚑 🚐 🚎 🚤 🚁 🛩️ 👍 👍
You drive a FRS, right? ;)
Yessir, brz
@@rexrcs the engine sound is quite unique. I have the GR86. thanks for this video. best one one youtube to explain the different configurations of the bt-01!