I have that exact same welling motor. Your video not only showed me what to do, but also the bearings to order. I prefer to have them before I disassemble the motor. Memory isnt as good as it once was. Thank you.
Thanks for the help. After cleaning out the dirt dobbers that had my Electrolux unit stopped up, I could tell the fan motor bearings were a little rough. You video was helpful knowing what to see/expect once disassembled. Thanks again.
Thank you for breaking this down. It looks exactly like my Frigidaire model. As for removing the old bearings, mine were quite stuck, and I didn’t have the piece of metal you used to hammer them off. Instead I held the center piece of the armature (wrapped in a cloth) in a stationary vise, then used two screw drivers to pry them off of their initial positions. Scraped my hands a few times in the process. Once there was enough space to fit the bearing, I put that in the vise next and then tapped out the edges of the armature with a rubber mallet. My AC unit is running much more quietly now! Let’s see how long the other parts last.
Thanks for showing us the simplicity of the assembly. It's too bad that in all the years I've been repairing AC's, I've had rare motor bearing replacements (40 years Universal EPA certification). Usually the refrigerator fails before the fan motor does. However newer Chinese units don't have the quality. But Welling motors should have held up, but it looks like they too have reduced quality (non-sealed bearings). Thank you for a method of repair and improved component selection.
Had two window A/C units have this problem...a Frigidaire and a Toshiba which both look like they were made by the same manufacturer...front panel was the only difference between them...the bearing seal is a crappy design that lets water get into the outer bearing (condenser side) and cause it to rust...both of these units were less than a year old..when I replaced the bearings, I packed a bunch of grease into the outer bearing plastic cover to help keep water out..I just installed them since it's getting hot..so far so good..
Well thanks im gonna switch mine too. I was hesitant between zz or 2rs. Because of the supplementary friction. My motor is smaller since it require 2x 608zz bearings those are 22x7x8mm 22 od 8 id 7 width I will go with rs. My a/c didnt like the wash at the end of last year. It was seized during winter even if stored in the house. So never clean them on removal lol clean them on installation and start it and leave it on . But i guess with 2rs bearings water would not have going in. We dont got zz bearings in car only 2rs and if very hot they put orange ones..
@4:19 except he didn't truly support the inner race. You should temporary put a washer over the shaft so it only touches against the INNER race when installing otherwise you will put dents into the races from the hammering causing the bearing to fail quickly.
@@LonnieJohnson1 sir, as a professional machinist and fabricator for nearly 20 years, I promise you on this: When installing bearings “support” and “driving” are the same thing, and whether you are applying pressure to the inner race or the outer race depends on if you are press fitting it into a shaft or a into a bore. If you are fitting it onto a shaft, as seen here, then the only race that you want to have force applied to is going to be the inner race. It doesn’t matter if you hold the shaft still and use a tube to drive the inner race down on the shaft, or if you support the inner race on a washer and tap down on the shaft. The friction is between the shaft and the inner race, the inner race is the one that needs to get the force, and the outer race needs to be as free-floating as possible, so that you do not transmit force from one race, through the bearings, to the other. If it is pressed into a bore it is the opposite. Shaft = inner race. Bore = outer race. And maintain clearance so you don’t accidentally put force through the bearing and dent the races.
Also not great @6:40 when installing the clips, it would have been better to pick up the motor and lay the shaft flat against the edge of the bench or a gap in the vise jaws when tapping the clip on so the force through the shaft is supported against something solid, instead of it going through the bearings. Almost certainly not going to be a problem with the clip it was just a tap, but it’s still the same concept and sometimes a tap is all it takes.
I have been dealing with bearings about 45 years now and it's best to press them in if you can, however, if you can't then you need to use something flat that covers the inner and outter bearing and not to hit the bearing unevenly.
thanks for the video. i initially ordered the wrong bearing from amazon based on the numbers on my original bearings. I seen your video, checked the part number and boom, i was wrong. cancelled my order and reordered the correct size, the reference for your bearings in 2019 might have been a good deal. today they want $22.73 a bearing. too much for me. cross referenced 4 pack PGN 6201-2RS sealed bearings $7.90 with prime shipping.
When they assemble these motors they just put in what would fit. However, skateboard bearings go through a lot of abuse. You can use the numbers from the bearing or take the shaft to a place that sales bearings and let them measure it with a caliper.
I have the same air conditioner and the same exact problem. Can you tell me what sealed bearing to order? That way I can have it shipped before taking it apart. I only have the one air conditioner, I'd like to shorten the down time for repair.
I would measure the I.D. on the old bearing and then measure the I.D. on the new bearing to see the difference. Does the old bearing slip on and off easily?
This is a gem of a video as it shows exactly what I need to do with a motor that's very similar to my own (AC, air-conditioner outdoor fan motor). In particular, the tip about hammering the shaft through at 3:55 is probably the answer to a problem I'm facing - the bearing is tight as *@(#&^ and won't slide beyond about 2/3 way down the shaft. And I'm not confident about heating the bearing. Did you apply any lubricant to the shaft and/or the bearing before installing it?
Definitely planning on getting an HVAC and refrigeration certificate as well as a Freon handling permit so I can pick up old air conditioners that have easy to fix leaks, bad compressors, or bad fan motors off the curb and resell them for a hefty profit, you can buy fan motors, compressors, and even whole coils on eBay for cheap
I've got a Frigidaire with a similar motor, it's riveted together, what would be a good replacement for the rivets? as I'm not going to rivet the motor back together
@@LonnieJohnson1 I saw from the video that this motor appears to be a Welling motor, same motor I have, same problem, it's what sends most units to the curb, yet of people saw how easy of a fix it is, they wouldn't be throwing away so many units
@@LonnieJohnson1 if you can figure out a good system, there's real money to be made, as even a beat to hell old Haier would sell for at least $50 during a heatwave
Weird my motor does not come apart the same way it comes apart the opposite way where the cable attaches and i hammered the hell out of the other part and it’s literally stuck there just my luck
@@LonnieJohnson1 no just there is two parts on that motor your part that came off is the part without the wires attached my same motor has yours the part that came off is the part where the wires are so i had to unplug the motor remove the insulation and gently remove the part by passing the cables where they come from anyway i manage to do it thanks for your reply
Just buttoned up and installed my A/C after replacing the bearings according to you excellent instructions. I used the same replacement bearings you show in the video. Now, the unit runs nice and quiet BUT....the fan stops after about 30 minutes even though the compressor is still runs. WTF? I hope you can provide an explanation/cure. Do you suppose the motor is overheating? Do these motors even have a thermal shutdown? Color me baffled.
@@LonnieJohnson1 The motor shuts off. Compressor keeps going for a few minutes then it shuts off too. If I turn off the power for awhile (~1/2 hour) everything starts and runs fine again...until it doesn't. I checked to make sure I don't have timer on. Very odd.
@@LonnieJohnson1 I connected the ground wire to the motor bracket as it was before disassembly. I would think the motor would be grounded through that and it's physical contact with the bracket. Why would a poor ground cause the observed symptoms? I guess I'm going to have to open it up again unfortunately. Nothing is easy is it?
Excellent video! I figured this was exactly what to do but I wanted to check and at least see if other people had any videos of doing it. I'm replacing mine with some high quality Yellow Jacket roller skate bearings to make it as quiet as possible. lol Also using some special nano-tungsten lube on them. ^_^
I bought my 5000 BTU room AC some fan motor bearings in Burton Auto Supply. They were sealed bearings that were supposedly “made in Japan.”Napa might have some as well. Get the part number written or stamped on the side bearing.
@@ShyRage1 it's not GE, per se, Haier bought out their appliance brand, so any Haier made unit would have that same problem, if you're looking for a unit on the cheap, Midea makes some good units, their basic models are easy to service and can last 5 years, which is a good bit longer than most modern units last
@@ShyRage1 They were bought out by Haier in 2015 or so, but they had been struggling and made some god awful stuff in the years preceding the buyout, in the mid 00s they were still good at making most things, though they were passed in quality by Whirlpool with their Fasco fan motors and Embraco compressors
I have that exact same welling motor. Your video not only showed me what to do, but also the bearings to order. I prefer to have them before I disassemble the motor. Memory isnt as good as it once was.
Thank you.
Your welcome, and I also like to have the parts handy as well if I can. It makes it so much easier.
@@LonnieJohnson1 The project went effortlessly thanks to you. AC is quietly blowing 45° air.
Cool!!
@LonnieJohnson1 how do you find out what bearings you need and where to get them? Thanks,great video!
Thanks for the help. After cleaning out the dirt dobbers that had my Electrolux unit stopped up, I could tell the fan motor bearings were a little rough. You video was helpful knowing what to see/expect once disassembled. Thanks again.
Your welcome
Thank you for breaking this down. It looks exactly like my Frigidaire model. As for removing the old bearings, mine were quite stuck, and I didn’t have the piece of metal you used to hammer them off. Instead I held the center piece of the armature (wrapped in a cloth) in a stationary vise, then used two screw drivers to pry them off of their initial positions. Scraped my hands a few times in the process. Once there was enough space to fit the bearing, I put that in the vise next and then tapped out the edges of the armature with a rubber mallet. My AC unit is running much more quietly now! Let’s see how long the other parts last.
Your welcome
You took the fear out of this job for me. Thank you! I was expecting to have to drive the bearings off the whole length of the shaft.
Your welcome
Excellent video tutorials for all electric motor with bearings. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks and your welcome.
Thanks for showing us the simplicity of the assembly. It's too bad that in all the years I've been repairing AC's, I've had rare motor bearing replacements (40 years Universal EPA certification). Usually the refrigerator fails before the fan motor does. However newer Chinese units don't have the quality. But Welling motors should have held up, but it looks like they too have reduced quality (non-sealed bearings). Thank you for a method of repair and improved component selection.
Your welcome
Had two window A/C units have this problem...a Frigidaire and a Toshiba which both look like they were made by the same manufacturer...front panel was the only difference between them...the bearing seal is a crappy design that lets water get into the outer bearing (condenser side) and cause it to rust...both of these units were less than a year old..when I replaced the bearings, I packed a bunch of grease into the outer bearing plastic cover to help keep water out..I just installed them since it's getting hot..so far so good..
I think they made these to fail so people would just throw them away and go out and buy another unit. It's all about money.
Was this a welling YKTS-95-4-52L motor? Great video thanks a bunch
Thanks and your welcome. Not sure about the motor, but I will see what I can find out.
The old bearings are sealed, but with metal, rather than rubber like the new one's. The rubber seals are better in my opinion than the metal one's.
I like the rubber as well.
Well thanks im gonna switch mine too. I was hesitant between zz or 2rs. Because of the supplementary friction. My motor is smaller since it require 2x 608zz bearings those are 22x7x8mm 22 od 8 id 7 width
I will go with rs. My a/c didnt like the wash at the end of last year. It was seized during winter even if stored in the house. So never clean them on removal lol clean them on installation and start it and leave it on . But i guess with 2rs bearings water would not have going in. We dont got zz bearings in car only 2rs and if very hot they put orange ones..
They never like a wash but now with the seal bearings I can clean it up and I'll see how long it last.
Great video!! Where does the wave disc spring go? Thanks!
Thanks. Not sure, where is it located?
@4:19 except he didn't truly support the inner race. You should temporary put a washer over the shaft so it only touches against the INNER race when installing otherwise you will put dents into the races from the hammering causing the bearing to fail quickly.
No! you want to contact the outer part not the inner part, you will damage the bearing.
@@LonnieJohnson1 sir, as a professional machinist and fabricator for nearly 20 years, I promise you on this: When installing bearings “support” and “driving” are the same thing, and whether you are applying pressure to the inner race or the outer race depends on if you are press fitting it into a shaft or a into a bore. If you are fitting it onto a shaft, as seen here, then the only race that you want to have force applied to is going to be the inner race. It doesn’t matter if you hold the shaft still and use a tube to drive the inner race down on the shaft, or if you support the inner race on a washer and tap down on the shaft. The friction is between the shaft and the inner race, the inner race is the one that needs to get the force, and the outer race needs to be as free-floating as possible, so that you do not transmit force from one race, through the bearings, to the other. If it is pressed into a bore it is the opposite. Shaft = inner race. Bore = outer race. And maintain clearance so you don’t accidentally put force through the bearing and dent the races.
Also not great @6:40 when installing the clips, it would have been better to pick up the motor and lay the shaft flat against the edge of the bench or a gap in the vise jaws when tapping the clip on so the force through the shaft is supported against something solid, instead of it going through the bearings. Almost certainly not going to be a problem with the clip it was just a tap, but it’s still the same concept and sometimes a tap is all it takes.
@@LonnieJohnson1TL;DR you never want a percussion to go from one race, through the ball bearings, to the other race. That’s how the races get dented.
I have been dealing with bearings about 45 years now and it's best to press them in if you can, however, if you can't then you need to use something flat that covers the inner and outter bearing and not to hit the bearing unevenly.
Thank you so much! This is precisely what I was needing, verbatim. You made it look so easy. Thanks again. Be blessed.❤
Your welcome
How do you kind of push on two parts you do push on two parts
The first bearing wasn't that tight and the second bearing just slide right on.
thanks for the video. i initially ordered the wrong bearing from amazon based on the numbers on my original bearings. I seen your video, checked the part number and boom, i was wrong. cancelled my order and reordered the correct size, the reference for your bearings in 2019 might have been a good deal. today they want $22.73 a bearing. too much for me. cross referenced 4 pack PGN 6201-2RS sealed bearings $7.90 with prime shipping.
Your welcome and thanks for the info.
Did the amazon pgn last???
@@bobaudette79 yep still working after 2 seasons
Excellent video!!! Very clear, very well explained, very easy to understand, thank you so much!!!👍👍👍
Thanks and your welcome
I know this is an old video but how did you come up with number for bearing surely there not all The same
If you can see or take the bearing off there is a number on the side of it.
@LonnieJohnson1 I got it apart i think it's a lot smaller than yours it comes up a skateboard bearing.
When they assemble these motors they just put in what would fit. However, skateboard bearings go through a lot of abuse. You can use the numbers from the bearing or take the shaft to a place that sales bearings and let them measure it with a caliper.
What is the part number for the barons get where can you buy the
The part # is at 3:34 or just go to Amazon and type in 6201Z
I have the same air conditioner and the same exact problem. Can you tell me what sealed bearing to order? That way I can have it shipped before taking it apart. I only have the one air conditioner, I'd like to shorten the down time for repair.
Amazon has them for about $6.60
part # 6201-2NSE9C3. It also shows the part# at 3:34
What will be the possible problem if you did not put back the washer beside its front bearing? Will it cause any problem?
I didn't put mine in and it's still working.
I have ordered three sets of these bearings they have the same part number but they will not go over the shaft. Does anyone have some suggestions?
I would measure the I.D. on the old bearing and then measure the I.D. on the new bearing to see the difference. Does the old bearing slip on and off easily?
This is a gem of a video as it shows exactly what I need to do with a motor that's very similar to my own (AC, air-conditioner outdoor fan motor).
In particular, the tip about hammering the shaft through at 3:55 is probably the answer to a problem I'm facing - the bearing is tight as *@(#&^ and won't slide beyond about 2/3 way down the shaft. And I'm not confident about heating the bearing. Did you apply any lubricant to the shaft and/or the bearing before installing it?
Definitely planning on getting an HVAC and refrigeration certificate as well as a Freon handling permit so I can pick up old air conditioners that have easy to fix leaks, bad compressors, or bad fan motors off the curb and resell them for a hefty profit, you can buy fan motors, compressors, and even whole coils on eBay for cheap
There is money in it.
I've got a Frigidaire with a similar motor, it's riveted together, what would be a good replacement for the rivets? as I'm not going to rivet the motor back together
I would get some small screws with lock washers and nuts.
@@LonnieJohnson1 I saw from the video that this motor appears to be a Welling motor, same motor I have, same problem, it's what sends most units to the curb, yet of people saw how easy of a fix it is, they wouldn't be throwing away so many units
Your right, they wouldn't.
@@LonnieJohnson1 if you can figure out a good system, there's real money to be made, as even a beat to hell old Haier would sell for at least $50 during a heatwave
did the bearing have a R number.......R10 R11 etc..??
Weird my motor does not come apart the same way it comes apart the opposite way where the cable attaches and i hammered the hell out of the other part and it’s literally stuck there just my luck
Is it bolted together? If it is riveted together you can drill the rivets out and replace with bolts.
@@LonnieJohnson1 no the part where the wires are is the part that came off the other part the one i need to take off is stuck there
@@LonnieJohnson1 so the part can’t come off because the wires prevents it the other half of the motor is stuck on the motor
Wow I would have to see that setup. Did you order another motor?
@@LonnieJohnson1 no just there is two parts on that motor your part that came off is the part without the wires attached my same motor has yours the part that came off is the part where the wires are so i had to unplug the motor remove the insulation and gently remove the part by passing the cables where they come from anyway i manage to do it thanks for your reply
Just buttoned up and installed my A/C after replacing the bearings according to you excellent instructions. I used the same replacement bearings you show in the video. Now, the unit runs nice and quiet BUT....the fan stops after about 30 minutes even though the compressor is still runs. WTF? I hope you can provide an explanation/cure. Do you suppose the motor is overheating? Do these motors even have a thermal shutdown? Color me baffled.
The motor quits or the fan quits turning?
Also make sure you grounded the motor.
@@LonnieJohnson1 The motor shuts off. Compressor keeps going for a few minutes then it shuts off too. If I turn off the power for awhile (~1/2 hour) everything starts and runs fine again...until it doesn't. I checked to make sure I don't have timer on. Very odd.
@@LonnieJohnson1 I connected the ground wire to the motor bracket as it was before disassembly. I would think the motor would be grounded through that and it's physical contact with the bracket. Why would a poor ground cause the observed symptoms? I guess I'm going to have to open it up again unfortunately. Nothing is easy is it?
@@LonnieJohnson1 To be more clear, the motor that turns the fan(s) shuts off.
Is this a 6400BTU A/C?
12000 BTU
Excellent video! I figured this was exactly what to do but I wanted to check and at least see if other people had any videos of doing it. I'm replacing mine with some high quality Yellow Jacket roller skate bearings to make it as quiet as possible. lol
Also using some special nano-tungsten lube on them. ^_^
Thanks and let me know how they work out.
great video. if you'd put the link to the website you bought that bearing, you would probably make some money from this video.
Thanks and I'll try that.
Yes, new bearings would be great. Now if only you'd explain how to determine how to order new bearings.
Applied Industrial Technologies: I gave them the number off the bearing and I got 2 sealed bearings.
Yes!!!
I bought my 5000 BTU room AC some fan motor bearings in Burton Auto Supply. They were sealed bearings that were supposedly “made in Japan.”Napa might have some as well.
Get the part number written or stamped on the side bearing.
Excellent video tutorial. I thank you sir.
Thank you and I'm glad I could help.
Great video! Thanks for the tutorial.
Thanks, and your welcome
where did you get the bearings....?
Applied Industrial Technologies: I gave them the number off the bearing and I got 2 sealed bearings.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge...
Your welcome, glad I could help.
Great video !
Thanks!
Anong numbers ng bearing reply pls..
The number is on the bearing
Using crappy parts should be a crime.
I know, right.
Thank you Sr
Your welcome
Thanks for sharing. I wanted to hear it run.
This is my backup motor with sealed bearings and when I put it back in one day I will make a video on what it sounds like with the different bearings.
well done video.... Thanks so much....
Thanks and you're welcome
Easy peasy but if you want a challenge, try doing that with a ge ac. THose youu have to solder and all.
I'm good, thanks
@@LonnieJohnson1 haha, no kidding
@@ShyRage1 it's not GE, per se, Haier bought out their appliance brand, so any Haier made unit would have that same problem, if you're looking for a unit on the cheap, Midea makes some good units, their basic models are easy to service and can last 5 years, which is a good bit longer than most modern units last
@@vacexpert2020 GE back in 05 made quality products though. My in wall ac lasted for 15 years before going out
@@ShyRage1 They were bought out by Haier in 2015 or so, but they had been struggling and made some god awful stuff in the years preceding the buyout, in the mid 00s they were still good at making most things, though they were passed in quality by Whirlpool with their Fasco fan motors and Embraco compressors
THANK YOU !!
You're welcome
Thanks man
You're welcome
Great 👍
Thanks
Nice....
Thanks
PSU FAN SWITCHING POWER SUPPLY
That's a laugh they're not on too tight but you have to hammer to get them off
What I call tight is using a big hammer or press.