Chris Malloy on Surf Splendor | Full Episode 456
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Professional surfer turned filmmaker Chris Malloy joins us to discuss how a singular lesson from his father became his career missive, the gift he gave back in return, hiring a young Jack Johnson to operate the Bolex for his first film, and how a near career-ending wipeout at Pipe created the space to explore a passion that will become his legacy beyond the surf world. Part Two will be published next week.
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Dan is a class act. With me growing up the same time in Ventura County( Camarillo) it was so cool to see him then and now. This interview was solid and so true to this generation of surfer.
Wow thanks for this CM is next level what a life I never heard him share too much about his story I’m glad he did I always liked his style of films. Can’t wait to see his next project
Thanks Chris. Stoked
Chris, it was so interesting to hear your stories of your life and experiences. Even though our lives haves intersected at certain key points and we have many similarities it was great to here your unique path and the way life experiences change us. Some doors close and other ones open. You have a nice humble delivery to your talking and a hilarious sense of dry humor. That part where Jeff Johnson spoke to you after your accident at pipe, your impersonation of him was impeccable. He stands tall right next to you, and after a moment of silence, he tilts his head slightly up, slowly rubs his beard back and forth in the cup of one hand while staring far into the distance at the horizon, and like unloading a burden of thought, he casually says, so....what are you going to do now? Like one of the wisest old owls I have ever met. That was so Jeff Johnson, one of my best friends of all time. I'm looking forward to part 2.
I also liked the perspective on big wave surfing, where, many of our big wave heavy heavy idols and icons might still be with us now if they'd have had all of the artificial survival gear back in their day. And many of the big wave chargers since, may not be here today if they hadn't had all the gear. They are really two different sports in my opinion.
Seems like a lot of these veterans who stay 'real people' have a sense of acceptance, meaning, and or contentment in their lives; they're not hustling, not selling themselves or something. I would love to hear more talk about who the other people really were, so in this instance the people CM spent time with like Jerry Lopez or Kelly Slater or Chris Ward. They're sort of just names to me but I'd love to hear more unfiltered talk about the personalities. For example I have a sense of Steve Lis and Skip Frye and what sorts of people they were, just through youtube (thank you surf splendor). I don't have anything like that for other important people in the sport. Just think of Machado, Slater and Dorian back in the day and how they all seem now. Is Kelly going to start doing infomercials for some fringe healthcare company or focus on pursuing his true passions like outdoor clothing, nutrition and giving advice online. Take it from the man.
CM says of Yvon Chouinard that his world view has changed a lot in the last 20 years and you didn't ask how that has changed, you moved to travel?
D Scales - you are a great interviewer, really good at giving your guests space. I feel like with these good guests you could go deeper. It can be a privilege to explain how you've come to terms with difficult things in a sympathetic environment, and it doesn't have to be exploitive or trying to be edgy. You keep it real which is great. I'm a dedicated listener so like what you're doing but if you have a guest that is able to intelligently talk about some real shit, I would like to hear it. I'm at the 48 minute mark and I don't think I've heard anything about real life challenges from CM. Like when you have to choose between two bad outcomes, or losing an important friendship, emotional distress or true joy. Just thinking out loud as I watch. Thanks for putting this out there.
Interesting guy, can't wait for part 2. Kids can't be having the same experiences in life because they are too digitally connected, there are too many surfers, and (to their defense) they've been raised by a generation of helicopter parents who don't allow them to explore and fail.
The best surfer?..............the one who is having the most fun!