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Can I fix it? Slow Märklin BR 151 - Basic maintenance steps
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2024
- As requested by a few viewers, we'll look at maintenance this week . During an incline test in the previous video, we saw a BR 151 struggling up a ramp, where a similar model had no issue. In this video, we will have a closer look and give this locomotive a very basic service to see if this improves its performance.
I hope this is useful to someone,
Tools:
Marklin toolset: reference: 70900
Tweezers: amzn.to/3rM9Pm8
Xuron flush cutter: amzn.to/3rM9Pm8
Oil:
Marklin 7149 amzn.to/3cTRtLT or Ballistol amzn.to/39GYU6P
Grease:
Trix: amzn.to/31KJuKG or any lithium grease for example: amzn.to/39LZmRn, use sparingly!
Useful reading:
- The Märklin service manual, the English version of which can be found in pdf format using google search, useful for most locomotives up to the late 90s. Just use the search term: "marklin service manual pdf".
- For newer models, most instruction manuals are available on the Märklin website and contain service recommendations for the relevant model.
- A quick article in German, describing a few symptoms to look for if you are re activating locos which have not been used for a long time, www.maerklin.d...
Feel free to like, share, subscribe or leave a comment.
Channel email: the3rdrailchannel@gmail.com
Subscription: / @the3rdrail
Thanks for watching
#Märklin #Vintage #analog #tmrguk
Marklin nostalgie Spielbahn nostalgieanlage m-gleis , voie M #mobaanalog märklin trains
Very good teaching skills, clear with a good pace, slow enough to let you being understood but not to slow to be boring.
Thanks for the feedback, glad you liked it. Take care.
Thank you so much for your this very informative and useful tutorial 😁 Will give me the confidence to proceed. Well done!
Glad you found it interesting. Good luck with your maintenance.
Wonderful job!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hello again 3rd rail, I will take this information and service my squealing DB 01. I believe that in the past, I did not use penetrating oil to properly clean the axles. So I have a dozen locos that will need servicing before the Fall/Winter season. I also have a DB BR-E03 TEE loco from the sixties where the wheels fall out of the chassis. I noted that you lean and twist to unhook the drive wheels and motor. Something in my frame must be worn out or broken. When I run the loco it just collapses onto the rail. Very frustrating. I have a lot of work to do before I can have some fun. Just a footnote, one of my analog white transformers stopped working. I drilled out the plugs, and took off the cover. I found that the feed wire to the rotating handle had broken off the solder joint. So I fixed that, and glued the cover back on. I wish Marklin made access to the transformers easier. Thanks again!
Hi, glad you found this useful, good luck with the maintenance.
Hallo,
schön gezeigt und toll erklärt, Gruß Kai
Danke! Gruß aus London
Problem on a 3066 (NOHAB EMD AA16) with the wire from the stator 'common return' to the motor face-plate being broken. Of course the break is far enough down in the depths of the stator for convenience. Obvious solution is to rewind the stator - Hmmm?, or to try to get a spare-part stator from Marklin - again - Hmmm??? Any ideas?
In the past with some models I have anchored these at-risk wires to a self-installed insulated metal post on the block and routed a thin flexible 'Faller' wire from there to the face plate. That way all the flexing involved in removing the face plate for servicing is taken by the Faller wire. I notice you seem to have not done this messy and inconvenient modification. Any procedure involving drilling and tapping Mazac/Zamac is 'inconvenient; anyone who has tried to remove a broken tap will explain why.
Finally, you mentioned what I take to be pitting on some of the wheels. This is a problem on many older Marklin. Again, Marklin don't always have spares - last time I tried to get a replacement wheel set, that time for an F7, I had no luck. I wonder what would happen now? Any ideas? I can machine up some wheels but it is a lot of mucking around. For anyone who wants to do this: don't use brass as it picks up dirt like crazy. The ideal is probably free-machining mild steel, but that can rust, and in my environment does rust. Am currently looking at stainless steel 304 , not 316 as it is too hard. I have yet to see how my Stainless wheels (316 to date) run in service. Also be aware that on steam outline wheel re-tyring is fraught, and on some 1980s models and later, the gears, at least on non-steam outline, are fused to the wheels. When that happens with wheel replacement is just frustrating, complicated, and convoluted. It would help if one were a tool-maker. The manufacturer would unlikely approve any of this, but the wheels on some of my models really do need replacement. Nickel silver would need to be tested for dirt pickup like brass. My worst model for collecting dirt (not Marklin) has what appears to be NS wheels. I suppose another possibility is to emery the originals and plate as for the pickup skates - but how do we dispose of the electrolyte when spent?
Modern Marklin apparently feature non serviceable motors, most of which I take to be brushless. When circuit boards fail, or motors fail, I wonder how it all goes. How does one replace failed electrics for a C-sine motor, or indeed the motor itself? I tried to find a spare light/diode chip for a NS Postal Railcar; no luck. These 'notes' are mainly for interest as if, we, your viewers don't contribute the channel sort of dies. My ideas are are only for discussion, not as advice; I don't want to be responsible for causing frustration. I am very much an amateur. This is our forum: would folk please share ideas. You don't need to be always right: just share thinking and experience.
I have had a lot of success and a lot of fun with Marklin. Now with spare parts challenging, I now do less and less Marklin, but having said that I would still believe them to the world leaders - in my view followed closely by Kato. Keeping the old stuff going, running it with modern geneartion equipment, and Marklin itself, is are big subjects.
I enjoy your channel when I get time and energy to catch it. Be encouraged.
Hi, that's a lot to unpack... Let's see if someone engages in the conversation 😉
In a nutshell:
I keep things stock, because I like an easy life, and the investment required in all the tooling to be able to machine parts etc wouldnt make any economical sense for me, or eat too much in my limited collecting budget...
Spares are often shared accross models: the driving wheels of the old F7s (3000 series) are the same as the ones used on 3080s for example... The same applies to armatures, field windings and other motor parts. Often it is just a matter of looking up similar models on the marklin database. What is really tricky are trim pieces though...
In general, if a part breaks often, it is very likely it is still made by Märklin, or that someone else makes one -> I think there are 2 or 3 cottage made C-sinus controllers on the market these days. There is a also the option to re motorise, SB-Modellbau (expensive...).
Electronic components, aside from servos and microntrollers are usually of the jelly bean variety, so should be easy to find. There are plenty of websites that do equivalence lookup tables or searches to find modern versions of discontinued components. But my collection stops in 1989... So someone else will have to comment on what the sitaution is like for newer stuff...
thanks for the visit... Have a good weekend...
@@The3rdRail As ever, thanks for that. I take your point about tooling, I came from another direction, so tooling wasn't just for Marklin. In mentioning tooling, my points/principles were 1/ Things were so restrictive as to require this. What DO you do when the wheels on a model are decrepit and there are no spares? Someone will be thinking of picking up a cheap second-hand 1980s Taiwanese lathe from somewhere - Ok; Here are some things to know.2/ There will be some amongst your viewers interested in various modifications for various reasons. A leading interest is two-railing; especially steam, and 'especially steam' is 'especially hard'. Attempts at Marklin steam outline conversions have broken a lot of hearts. I am not an expert but have been at this a while, and so try to contribute when possible, as folk helped and still help me.
Hence the comments I left tonight on the 3055, not realising it was a long time ago. My computer flashed it up as if it were recent, and I did not check. I don't suppose he will ever read it now, but one commentator mentioned limited budget amidst comments on restoration, so I detailed for him the conversion of a pump fly-spray into a useable airbrush. As I read the way he presents, there is a chance that could move him miles.... or it might not. It moved me more than miles, a lot more than miles. Perhaps I should re-post it as a 'reply' to his 'comment'. I might do that.
On my question/s: the spares bin sharing was as I have long suspected, though the railcar sits out like a shag on a rock. Thanks for tip on the 'tables''; did not know about that. It seems modern Marklin, or post 80s Marklin, is looking every bit as convoluted as I had hoped it was not.
Would rather have sent this by email, but just cannot find address. Do you want your viewers to comment like this. I think it is the life-blood of RUclips; but that is just me. Actually there is a LOT more to it than that, but that carries us far past the far side of comments.
Thanks for your efforts: better go: it's three in the morning.
@@petert9749 Comment or email is fine for me, the email address is listed in most video descriptions... But if your point is to share with many, then email is probably not the best...😉 Night night...
@@The3rdRail Very quickly: Sounds good. Any time someone starts a Utube channel there is a probability of becoming an ideas exchange.
I see my diatribe on painting got a 'like'. I have a fan! Whatever has become of British taste! Pre-Covid I picked up a 'junker' 3060 Warbonnet F7 for about 17 of your pounds. With that painting tip a modeller could restore it with nothing more than Humbrol paint, transfers, a set of brushes, some tyres, and a bit of research. Cost: not much.
Wonderful. Now go and get some sunshine.
Peter
Very nice video, as all of yours. What is the penetrating fluid that you use?
Thanks, I use WD-40
@@The3rdRail Thank you. I really love your videos. Are you a teacher? You seem so good at explaining things.
No, I don't teach, but thanks a lot!
Thank you for the great video! This will be very useful to help me clean my old Märklin locos, which I hadn't used in 25 years.
Do you use regular WD-40, or the "Specialist Penetrant"?
This is the analog version. I've got a recent digital version that displays the same slow down problem. Perhaps because of dust?
If the construction of the motor block is the same, then it could be a similar wheel bearings issue as the one described in the video. It could be something else as well... A bit of dust isn't usually enough to slow things down.
thank you..............Question do some normally run slower then others???
No problem. Every analogue locomotive type runs differently depending on the type of motor and gearing. For locomotives based on the same construction like in this video, the speed should be the same or very close. Thanks for your sub.
@@The3rdRail Thank You very informing
What grease do you use? Anything special?
I use Ballistol (resin free oil) for the gears and axles, and lithium grease for the ends of the motor armature shaft.
1
Danke Detlef.