I have a bunch of "nicer" pocket knives from benchmade, spyderco, protech, demko etc. I'm not a huge BM fanboy, they're probably some of my least favorite knives overall. But my mini freek in s90v and carbon (got second hand for $150) is one of the best knives I've ever handled. It's literally the perfect size. Large enough to be ergonomic in hand, but still disappears in the pocket. Blade is a very functional shape and thin enough to be slicey but robust enough to handle hard work. Materials feel and look extremely premium but also hold up to hard use. If I had to let go of the entire collection except this one I wouldn't be upset at all. From dress occasions or the office to outdoors use It's perfect for everything. Homerun from benchmade on this one. Price is crazy though, that's why I buy second hand when possible.
Goes to show, different strokes for different folks. I despise the mini freek. The handle is just a bit too short, and my glove size is med-lg. A mini grip is just a tad longer and just enough for me.
Regardless of the steel quality or type, you' re a likeable guy. I'm not a knife aficionado, but I found myself watching throughout your video. Thanks for the earlier tips!
Great video! I like that you talk about the molecular dynamics of the blades - makes it feel more based on reality. Did they make any different colors for these?
M4 freak is my favorite edc knife very confident in its durability. I like the s90v for food. I keep that basic for hygiene ss for food carbon for touch the world.
The m4 blade steel on super freak is a powder metal steel, it's a cpm-m4. I know that the blade only says m4 but it's a cpm steel just like the s90v. Both are great steels for there given uses. Always enjoy your videos and appreciate the work put into the videos.
Thanks for pointing this out, that’s what BM spec is saying, but this steel exists in both, the ingot and the PM form and, the composition being identical, combined with the fact that the steel wholesalers frequently don’t specify which one they are stocking, I’m wondering if it’s actually always sourced as the PM.
@@CuttingBoardRx I have emailed Benchmade in the past because the m4 and cruwear blades are never marked with cpm in front of the steel marking. They responded that all there current steels are cpm including m4 and cruwear.
@@chriswebb3018 thanks again, I went on Crucible website and looked at the data sheets for both versions of M4. You know that they sell both, right? The bottom line is that they have nearly identical heat treat and temper recommendations. However… they recommend the powder version for larger cross section tools. That begs the question: is BM waisting our hard earned cash on the version of M4 that is an overkill or are they hoping that an average knife buyer will not discern the difference between CPM and CM? What do you think?🤔 Did they specifically say that it is Powder or did they just say Crucible Industries? I would love to see a copy of that email posted, or you could email it to the account listed in the channel description. Either way, thanks for the thought-provoking comments!
@@CuttingBoardRx there exact response was all there current steels are cpm steels, which I took as all are pm steels from crucible. This was a couple yrs ago that I emailed them about this when I bought my first BM in m4. If I still the email in my tablet I'll definitely forward it. But this had me more interested in this so I'm going email them again for more information about this along with any info about there heat treatments. I've seen different hrc specs listed for there current knives in magnacut and want to know more about that as well. Also for anyone reading this buy your BM knives from GP knives and call them up for pricing, they are very fair about paying a more reasonable price.
I just posted the second video about these knives and I mentioned your name in it. Thanks for bringing this up and following through on our conversation!
The actual price of a comparable size s90v steel blank is around $20+ , but BM charges $100 for grinding and sharpening and another $100 for scales and brand name add another $80 for marketing and warehouse/ inventory fees, ball park figure is you end up paying $300 + for a kinife that has a actual production cost of aprox $80-100 .🤷🏻♂️
S90vs blade retention is worth the price.striking the blade on bone is not a fair test for s90vchop wood and see which dulls first.They did not replace s90v, s90v is the upgraded steel.They offer alot of their product line in carbon fiber scales and s90v.Their carbon fiber is the best I've ever seen.
Well, the steel accounts for 10-20% of the blade’s performance the rest is split between the edge angle and the blade cross section shape/area. Not my words: Dr. Larrin Thomas’
I was gifted the mini freek for Christmas. It's a fantastic knife, but I've been using a 575 & I prefer the scales over the freek. The drop point is amazing also... idn both are worth having around
Why would the other reviewers risk their kick-backs? Most of them are trying to make a full time job out of the channels. In fact MC and NK are already doing it full time. I wonder how many consumers realize that.
Most of us know already - when leftyedc for example changed his direct approach was most noticeable on the BM Narrows it was beyond obvious- a bit sad - Shabazz usually kept it real - we enjoy your channel nice work keeping it real and honest - ty 😊
I have heard that with the freek, they over heat the edge. You need to resharpen it as much as 15 separate times to get through to an edge that acts the way it’s supposed to.
All Benchmade knives and almost all other US-made knives come with bad sharpening. It is because the minimal wage employees that sharpen them aren’t knife enthusiasts. So every Spyderco, BM, Kershaw, Case, Buck, Gerbage, ZT, Medford, Microtech, Pro-Tech, Heretic…. would have to be resharpened. The exceptions that I personally experienced are McNees and Chris Reeve. When you buy an Italian, German, Taiwanese and most of Chinese knives, you will get a much higher quality edge.
What about Japanese knives? My Fallkniven (Swedish but Japanese made) with a Scandi edge has a beautifully smooth sharp finish in my opinion but I'm no expert. My other Japanese knives are too old and have been sharpened by me to many times to tell anymore.
Been on the fence on what edc I should get benchmade or Spyderco!. Have been looking at the freek and the aluminium m390 version of the bugout. But after this video I’m not sure. I could be leaning to a Spyderco Manix 2 or pm2. Any suggestions? Great video by the way
All the knives you mentioned are great. Freek and the Aluminum Bugout will feel more premium for about the same amount of money. Manix and pm are solid but feel a little too plastiky to me
@@CuttingBoardRx that’s what my worries about the Manix was for such a nice knife why put plastic parts on it!. Thank you for the reply. Really wanted a benchmade so it’s time to pick!
You need to handle the knife to decide....go to a knife show or a big shop with alot of inventory.Things you handle for a while you might not like at first,but they become your favorite.The 940-1 is my absolute favorite.the para2 is good,benchmade is the best because of thier customer service and warranty.its not over after 300.if it breaks you are done.Benchmade replaces no questions asked
Despite thousands of knives being release per year, the Freek, Presidio II, and Griptilian remain some of the best knifes out there. It's unfortunate that Benchmade has gone crazy with the pricing. The carbon fiber versions are nice not only because they reduce the weight, but because they improve the balance over G-10. Some other points: Hardness testing with files is very crude. I wouldn't put much stock in it. And printer paper is usually harder to cut on one side. Material that is pressed through rollers during production often has different properties along different axes. (This includes steel, by the way.)
Yes, it’s been verified by Benchmade. Very little of the knife lineup still uses ingot steel. I think there’s some black class still using ingot D2. Also, there may be a knife or 2 still using 154CM. Of course, trainers likely use a 420 or 440 of some kind to save money.
Question? How come you spine whack the RAM-LOK Folders but not the Axis-Lock Folders or the Liner-Lock and Frame-Lock and Plunge-Lock and Compression-Lock Folders? They can fail, also. Especially, if you hit the Pommel of the Handle hard against a hard surface. This makes the Axis-Lock, Lock-Bar bounce down and unlock the blade, causing it to fold onto your digits. Only the Andrew Demko Tri-Ad and Flavio Ikoma Deadbolt are Spine Whack Proof. A d, it gets real boring, real quick, if you only use and carry those Models. They're not as fun to carry and fidget with, due to their Lock Types. Many of us prefer Modern, Fidgety, Folding Knife Locks for our SDUEDC Folders that we carry to Work and throughout the day. But, if you need a Self-Defense Folder, then, I always want the toughest Knife Lock. That's when I choose to carry a Tri-Ad or Deadbolt Folder; the Tri-Ad is my favorite go to for Self-Defense Folders. The other thing that's important to me, is, I only carry, now, Folders that are up to my safety standards. If the lock fails, and the blade folds in on your digits, and you're properly gripping your Folder, does it cut your digits? If so, I don't carry it. I always apply the qualification to all of the Folders I carry and use and do reviews of. I do not wish to show Folders that don't meet my qualifications. I absolutely luv watching Videos like yours and Joe X. Because, you show the limitations of Knives. And, I always feel it's important to know the limitations of your Tools. So, you know how to properly use them. Keep them coming. I think you're a great addition to the Knife Community. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
I spine whack test all blades that claim to be “safer locks” that leaves the liner locks and the frame locks out: no knowledge is gained by testing what everyone already knows. But I still twist load them and do other crazy things that you and other viewers shouldn’t 😉
Right on. But, I didn't hear you mention that. I haven't heard Microtech say their Folder lock was the strongest or super strong. I agree, if their claiming that, then they deserve your response. Myself, I don't think any Folding Knife Lock is Super Strong except for the Tri-Ad and Deadbolt. And, out those two, I like the Tri-Ad the best because it self-adjust as it wears; I have never worn a Tri-Ad Lock out. But, I have worn out a Deadbolt Lock. Oh, and by the way, I carry and use the Folders I review. So, I know which one's are the best for Work and for Self-Defense carry. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
I give you credit for running your brand new expensive knives through bone 😅. My one hunting buddy always cries about his expensive knives going sharp. I always say if you keep hitting bone with your knife it will dull any steel regardless of what it is.
I think M4 is a well loved steel! I also think the original alignment of having M4 on a larger knife and S90V on the shorter was spot on, a perfect balance. But then again, the knife industry hates equilibrium: if we all think that we already have a perfect setup, why would we buy more knives?
I have all three CR large models and I find them more pleasant to look at than carry every day. And I have no love for how they open, ergonomics are just wrong for my thumbs. So actually I think the Freeks are giving me more for my money than the CRs to me. It is a matter of personal preference tho.
How do you really know that? Watch this one, it’s all in there Freek vs. Freek Rematch! Blade steel and edge geometry, did Benchmade nail it? ruclips.net/video/Yoo0Z1PgD3s/видео.html
How did you get from my video to your conclusion? Did you skip the edge test? Not many knives would survive the stag horn whack and sawing. If you’re on the fence, look at the Griptillian with the Spydie hole, it’s absolutely the most balanced US-made EDC under $150 and if you like high speed low drag, Hogue Deka in MagnaCut. Skip the Bugout, it’s way overpriced for what it is.
@@CuttingBoardRx haha so true. my toilet hobby is to spot the fakes on eBay. But no I get mine direct from benchmade. I have codes for 60% off 1 knife per purchase. Unfortunately I am not allowed to share how I obtain these codes.
@@marwas6149odd thing to say. Most people would say a first sized rock can be used as a weapon, should rocks be made illegal? But not you lol I’m worried about you
Either one of these could possibly be someone’s “only knife”
Agree?
I have a bunch of "nicer" pocket knives from benchmade, spyderco, protech, demko etc. I'm not a huge BM fanboy, they're probably some of my least favorite knives overall. But my mini freek in s90v and carbon (got second hand for $150) is one of the best knives I've ever handled. It's literally the perfect size. Large enough to be ergonomic in hand, but still disappears in the pocket. Blade is a very functional shape and thin enough to be slicey but robust enough to handle hard work. Materials feel and look extremely premium but also hold up to hard use. If I had to let go of the entire collection except this one I wouldn't be upset at all. From dress occasions or the office to outdoors use It's perfect for everything. Homerun from benchmade on this one. Price is crazy though, that's why I buy second hand when possible.
@heres_the_sauce That is quite an endorsement!
Goes to show, different strokes for different folks. I despise the mini freek. The handle is just a bit too short, and my glove size is med-lg. A mini grip is just a tad longer and just enough for me.
Thanks for the video. Very educating and entertaining. Underrated chanel for sure.
Thanks for viewing my content! Grat comment!
Regardless of the steel quality or type, you' re a likeable guy. I'm not a knife aficionado, but I found myself watching throughout your video. Thanks for the earlier tips!
Thanks for what u do brother
@@Daboulty95 well, thank you, Sir!
Really dig these steel comparison videos, I love my M4 Freek
Do you think I should do a follow up where I change the edge geometry on the M4 to get more edge retention?
Do it, Id personally like to know since I dont use mine for much hard use work@@CuttingBoardRx
@@patrickduncan9584 done! Posted today!
Great video! I like that you talk about the molecular dynamics of the blades - makes it feel more based on reality. Did they make any different colors for these?
The original Freek had a plastic handle with a rubbery insert and there were some exclusive limited editions in natural G10 etc.
M4 freak is my favorite edc knife very confident in its durability. I like the s90v for food. I keep that basic for hygiene ss for food carbon for touch the world.
Great channel! Great content! Thank you very much for your time!
Glad you enjoy it!
I Realy like your testing. Horn testing heck of an idea.
Right? Why nobody else does that? Oh, wait! They are selling the knives!
The m4 blade steel on super freak is a powder metal steel, it's a cpm-m4. I know that the blade only says m4 but it's a cpm steel just like the s90v. Both are great steels for there given uses. Always enjoy your videos and appreciate the work put into the videos.
Thanks for pointing this out, that’s what BM spec is saying, but this steel exists in both, the ingot and the PM form and, the composition being identical, combined with the fact that the steel wholesalers frequently don’t specify which one they are stocking, I’m wondering if it’s actually always sourced as the PM.
@@CuttingBoardRx I have emailed Benchmade in the past because the m4 and cruwear blades are never marked with cpm in front of the steel marking. They responded that all there current steels are cpm including m4 and cruwear.
@@chriswebb3018 thanks again, I went on Crucible website and looked at the data sheets for both versions of M4. You know that they sell both, right? The bottom line is that they have nearly identical heat treat and temper recommendations. However… they recommend the powder version for larger cross section tools. That begs the question: is BM waisting our hard earned cash on the version of M4 that is an overkill or are they hoping that an average knife buyer will not discern the difference between CPM and CM? What do you think?🤔 Did they specifically say that it is Powder or did they just say Crucible Industries? I would love to see a copy of that email posted, or you could email it to the account listed in the channel description. Either way, thanks for the thought-provoking comments!
@@CuttingBoardRx there exact response was all there current steels are cpm steels, which I took as all are pm steels from crucible. This was a couple yrs ago that I emailed them about this when I bought my first BM in m4. If I still the email in my tablet I'll definitely forward it. But this had me more interested in this so I'm going email them again for more information about this along with any info about there heat treatments. I've seen different hrc specs listed for there current knives in magnacut and want to know more about that as well. Also for anyone reading this buy your BM knives from GP knives and call them up for pricing, they are very fair about paying a more reasonable price.
I just posted the second video about these knives and I mentioned your name in it. Thanks for bringing this up and following through on our conversation!
enjoing your videos whole day, keep up the good work!
@@adadadad8251 Thank you! Will do my best!
The actual price of a comparable size s90v steel blank is around $20+ , but BM charges $100 for grinding and sharpening and another $100 for scales and brand name add another $80 for marketing and warehouse/ inventory fees, ball park figure is you end up paying $300 + for a kinife that has a actual production cost of aprox $80-100 .🤷🏻♂️
I just made a purchase on the freak I found your video very helpful
S90vs blade retention is worth the price.striking the blade on bone is not a fair test for s90vchop wood and see which dulls first.They did not replace s90v, s90v is the upgraded steel.They offer alot of their product line in carbon fiber scales and s90v.Their carbon fiber is the best I've ever seen.
Well, the steel accounts for 10-20% of the blade’s performance the rest is split between the edge angle and the blade cross section shape/area. Not my words: Dr. Larrin Thomas’
I was gifted the mini freek for Christmas. It's a fantastic knife, but I've been using a 575 & I prefer the scales over the freek. The drop point is amazing also... idn both are worth having around
Good video. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
In the end, I think you nudged my decision to try out the S90V Freek. Factory edge is a joke, but everything else feels super premium & ergonomic 👍
Thank you for mentioning BM crazy inflated prices - if only all reviewers did this it may of helped keep proxes down
Why would the other reviewers risk their kick-backs? Most of them are trying to make a full time job out of the channels. In fact MC and NK are already doing it full time. I wonder how many consumers realize that.
Most of us know already - when leftyedc for example changed his direct approach was most noticeable on the BM Narrows it was beyond obvious- a bit sad - Shabazz usually kept it real - we enjoy your channel nice work keeping it real and honest - ty 😊
I have heard that with the freek, they over heat the edge. You need to resharpen it as much as 15 separate times to get through to an edge that acts the way it’s supposed to.
All Benchmade knives and almost all other US-made knives come with bad sharpening. It is because the minimal wage employees that sharpen them aren’t knife enthusiasts. So every Spyderco, BM, Kershaw, Case, Buck, Gerbage, ZT, Medford, Microtech, Pro-Tech, Heretic…. would have to be resharpened. The exceptions that I personally experienced are McNees and Chris Reeve. When you buy an Italian, German, Taiwanese and most of Chinese knives, you will get a much higher quality edge.
What about Japanese knives? My Fallkniven (Swedish but Japanese made) with a Scandi edge has a beautifully smooth sharp finish in my opinion but I'm no expert. My other Japanese knives are too old and have been sharpened by me to many times to tell anymore.
Been on the fence on what edc I should get benchmade or Spyderco!. Have been looking at the freek and the aluminium m390 version of the bugout. But after this video I’m not sure. I could be leaning to a Spyderco Manix 2 or pm2. Any suggestions? Great video by the way
All the knives you mentioned are great. Freek and the Aluminum Bugout will feel more premium for about the same amount of money. Manix and pm are solid but feel a little too plastiky to me
@@CuttingBoardRx that’s what my worries about the Manix was for such a nice knife why put plastic parts on it!. Thank you for the reply. Really wanted a benchmade so it’s time to pick!
What's scales do you like? Look Into a BM 575, the scales are incredible
@@mattconklin4026 I ended getting the bugout with aluminium scales and m390 blade. Awesome knife!
You need to handle the knife to decide....go to a knife show or a big shop with alot of inventory.Things you handle for a while you might not like at first,but they become your favorite.The 940-1 is my absolute favorite.the para2 is good,benchmade is the best because of thier customer service and warranty.its not over after 300.if it breaks you are done.Benchmade replaces no questions asked
Despite thousands of knives being release per year, the Freek, Presidio II, and Griptilian remain some of the best knifes out there. It's unfortunate that Benchmade has gone crazy with the pricing. The carbon fiber versions are nice not only because they reduce the weight, but because they improve the balance over G-10.
Some other points: Hardness testing with files is very crude. I wouldn't put much stock in it. And printer paper is usually harder to cut on one side. Material that is pressed through rollers during production often has different properties along different axes. (This includes steel, by the way.)
I appreciate this very well said comment. Your knowledge is impressive!
the m4 is also a cpm m4 a powder steel!!! on this benchmade
Yes, it’s been verified by Benchmade. Very little of the knife lineup still uses ingot steel. I think there’s some black class still using ingot D2. Also, there may be a knife or 2 still using 154CM. Of course, trainers likely use a 420 or 440 of some kind to save money.
Question? How come you spine whack the RAM-LOK Folders but not the Axis-Lock Folders or the Liner-Lock and Frame-Lock and Plunge-Lock and Compression-Lock Folders? They can fail, also. Especially, if you hit the Pommel of the Handle hard against a hard surface. This makes the Axis-Lock, Lock-Bar bounce down and unlock the blade, causing it to fold onto your digits.
Only the Andrew Demko Tri-Ad and Flavio Ikoma Deadbolt are Spine Whack Proof. A d, it gets real boring, real quick, if you only use and carry those Models. They're not as fun to carry and fidget with, due to their Lock Types.
Many of us prefer Modern, Fidgety, Folding Knife Locks for our SDUEDC Folders that we carry to Work and throughout the day.
But, if you need a Self-Defense Folder, then, I always want the toughest Knife Lock. That's when I choose to carry a Tri-Ad or Deadbolt Folder; the Tri-Ad is my favorite go to for Self-Defense Folders.
The other thing that's important to me, is, I only carry, now, Folders that are up to my safety standards. If the lock fails, and the blade folds in on your digits, and you're properly gripping your Folder, does it cut your digits? If so, I don't carry it. I always apply the qualification to all of the Folders I carry and use and do reviews of. I do not wish to show Folders that don't meet my qualifications.
I absolutely luv watching Videos like yours and Joe X. Because, you show the limitations of Knives. And, I always feel it's important to know the limitations of your Tools. So, you know how to properly use them.
Keep them coming. I think you're a great addition to the Knife Community. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
I spine whack test all blades that claim to be “safer locks” that leaves the liner locks and the frame locks out: no knowledge is gained by testing what everyone already knows. But I still twist load them and do other crazy things that you and other viewers shouldn’t 😉
Right on. But, I didn't hear you mention that. I haven't heard Microtech say their Folder lock was the strongest or super strong. I agree, if their claiming that, then they deserve your response.
Myself, I don't think any Folding Knife Lock is Super Strong except for the Tri-Ad and Deadbolt. And, out those two, I like the Tri-Ad the best because it self-adjust as it wears; I have never worn a Tri-Ad Lock out. But, I have worn out a Deadbolt Lock.
Oh, and by the way, I carry and use the Folders I review. So, I know which one's are the best for Work and for Self-Defense carry. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
I have the M4 version but now you’ve made me want the S90v
If there was a limit in my budget, I would wait until the 710 comes out in May
I give you credit for running your brand new expensive knives through bone 😅. My one hunting buddy always cries about his expensive knives going sharp. I always say if you keep hitting bone with your knife it will dull any steel regardless of what it is.
More likely it would chip the edge. See my follow up video about the same knives!
Great video! I personally prefer M4 over s90v, I know that's probably an unpopular opinion.
I think M4 is a well loved steel! I also think the original alignment of having M4 on a larger knife and S90V on the shorter was spot on, a perfect balance. But then again, the knife industry hates equilibrium: if we all think that we already have a perfect setup, why would we buy more knives?
It's CPM-M4... it's not ingot.
I subscribed and I want one of those but I refuse to bow to their prices a person might as well buy a Chris Reeves
I have all three CR large models and I find them more pleasant to look at than carry every day. And I have no love for how they open, ergonomics are just wrong for my thumbs. So actually I think the Freeks are giving me more for my money than the CRs to me. It is a matter of personal preference tho.
It is not ingot steel, it's cmp m4
How do you really know that? Watch this one, it’s all in there
Freek vs. Freek Rematch! Blade steel and edge geometry, did Benchmade nail it?
ruclips.net/video/Yoo0Z1PgD3s/видео.html
@@CuttingBoardRx Because Benchmade said so.
So benchmade is complete trash? I was looking into purchasing the mini bugout or the mini griptilian but not so sure now
How did you get from my video to your conclusion? Did you skip the edge test? Not many knives would survive the stag horn whack and sawing. If you’re on the fence, look at the Griptillian with the Spydie hole, it’s absolutely the most balanced US-made EDC under $150 and if you like high speed low drag, Hogue Deka in MagnaCut. Skip the Bugout, it’s way overpriced for what it is.
@@CuttingBoardRxGood, straightforward advice!
What the heck? You stopped mid-sentence and left us hanging...
Was it that riveting?
@@CuttingBoardRx I guess so🤣
I get 60% off all my benchmades ;)
eBay? Just remember, lots of fakes there. Some are very good but they are the reason why omega springs have a bad reputation
@@CuttingBoardRx haha so true. my toilet hobby is to spot the fakes on eBay. But no I get mine direct from benchmade. I have codes for 60% off 1 knife per purchase. Unfortunately I am not allowed to share how I obtain these codes.
@@SirBigChungusMe to😎
Why so secretive?
@@K22-q8h because that’s one of the conditions of me getting the discount codes. I am not allowed to share how. Jeez you are not that smart are you?
These are all prohibited weapons in Canada
Stupid law. A knife is not a weapon. A knife is a tool. does the fact that you can rape with a penis mean that penises should be banned?
@@marwas6149odd thing to say. Most people would say a first sized rock can be used as a weapon, should rocks be made illegal? But not you lol I’m worried about you
That's not true I just purchased one in canada.