5 Things You Should Never Do In A Brand New Car
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2024
- 5 Things You Should Never Do In A Brand New Vehicle
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Proper break-in is important for the reliability, performance, and longevity of your vehicle. Part of the way you make sure your engine lasts is through how you drive your new car for those first thousand miles (check your owner's manual for the exact mileage). There are several things which you should avoid doing, including giving your vehicle full throttle, taking your engine to redline, using cruise control, traveling short distances, and towing. We'll talk about various different engine break-in procedures, used in the Nissan GT-R, Acura NSX, Chevrolet Corvette, and even a land-speed record car built by an FCA engineer as a hobby.
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The reason for the 300 mile GTR break in is so you get to enjoy your GTR a few hours before you wrap it around a pole drifting it
If you think a gtr can drift then you're already doing it wrong
@@adamthomas1222 "Nissan GT-R breaks Guinness World Records title for the fastest drift at 304.96 Km/h"
@@Neilukuk lmao it wasnt a road legal, stock gtr. The thing had 1380hp
@@Neilukuk they are awd😂😂😂 be quiet
@@10thgenAj My comment is still true 👍
my car is 17 years old why am i watching this
RedesCat same. grand am gt '00
RedesCat my motor mount actually broke today, taking the power steering pulley with it lmao.
Look back in the days you followed these steps.
Mine is 46 years old >.
Because you were relieved that your car was broken in correctly so it is still surviving maybe? But the piston rings maybe need changing.
you didnt mention not peeing on the seat. so i will keep doing it
Hold up...
To be continued
Haha this comments stands out of the others😂😂😂😂😂
Supposed to use your piss jug. Once full toss it out the window. Way of the road.
Funny, I think that is how society has warnings on everything now.
The way he keeps pulling out car parts outta nowhere never cease to amaze me!
Manoj Sundi facts, my mans would casually pull a whole Tesla motor from a cup holder
Don't you have the Gta wheel selector?!?
As well his hand gesture when showing the piston up & down...
'not exceeding 4000rpm'
>4043 rpm
*triggered*
Lol
just 4000 my cars redline is 6000
Computer: intermittent failure
Computer: throw away engine
Lol this got me too
big tip: you can floor FIATs when they are new, they are gonna break anyway. :)
FIAT - Fix It Again Tony
XD
Fix it again tomorrow :)
LOL!!!!
Fix It Again Today
When I drive a new car I always make sure the entire speedometer is working
5 Things You Should Never Do In A Brand New Car:
1. Don't Floor It (Full Throttle)
2. Don't Shift At Redline
3. Don't Use Cruise Control
4. Avoid Short Distance Travel
5. Avoid Towing
@Lucas Van Hamburg Hi, thanks for commenting. Well, oftentimes, RUclips comments get lost in the sea of anonymity ;-)
Why cruise control?
@@ariqzachry I don't remember. I'll watch the video again & come back with some details as soon as I can. Thanks for commenting :-)
@@ariqzachry Thanks for your patience. I think what he meant to say with that is, "Do not drive at one constant engine or vehicle speed for a long time, either fast or slow."
@@muhammadsaleemakhtar9533 That's interesting. Thanks for sharing the information :-)
The new car smell is the best bit; so don't fart...
GTA Wise Guy the best thing you can do is be the first to fart in your new car. Marked territory.
GTA Wise Guy or open your windows and drive.
+afrosheenix Ew... you make me just need to change seats..im.a third owner of a civic
? Why are people obsessed with idiotic sayings..
Being the first person to fart in a new car is just one of the many joys. Although, ericthecarguy mentioned this on one of his videos, stating that he did handle a lot new cars when he was working at a dealership sooooo... That kinda ruins the fun.
*spongebob* Floor it??
*ms puff* No spongebob don't floor it!!
LOL
He can floor my Prius if he wants
Brian Griffin Wouldn't make a difference...
Brian Griffin a floored prius doesn't go any faster than a half throttled prius lol
accelerator pedal to the "floor"... you're trolling, right?
The first thing the car salesman says....GO AHEAD AND FLOOR IT
Test drove the 19 gt I bought today. Was at 1 mile straight from trailer and salesman told me to floor it. I told him I wouldn't buy the car if I did that lol. Not going to ruin break in period on it then purchase it. To make it worse. He wanted me to floor it with less than 20 miles til E on it lmao.
Randy C. lol and the person before you who test drove it didn’t floor it?
The thoughts of test driving a new vehicle came to mind more than once while watching this video. I've never bought a new car with 0 miles. People do test drives all the time and don't buy them. Then someone comes along and buys it. You have NO idea what that car was put through in previous test drives. They are often driven ridiculously hard. I am always gentle when test driving a new car, because I believe it's the proper thing to do. I know that there is a cost element to it, but I really like what Acura does with the NSX engine break-in.
I test drove my car at a dealership next to a highway. Salesman said to take it on the highway and floor it. I did, but then I went to another dealership with no access to fast roads and bought my car there.
When you buy new it should come from the factory, no one should have driven it before.
1000 km's into my new truck, I thought I'd search this up. Broke all the rules, great.
How is the truck? If you drove it normally and didn't drag race it, run it flat-out all the time, and race it from cold, you probably did better than you think.
Don't let your friend drive your car
1stJohn 4:7 Ferry Porsche once said: i'd lend my toothbrush to someone, rather than my car.
1stJohn 4:7 ESPECIALLY if they can't drive stick.
What!!!!? I'd rather borrow my girl than borrowing my toothbrush than borrowing my car.
i don't know anyone with a drivers licence who can't drive a manual. i guess that's an american thing.
Alan Ni i'm jealous of your car. i like porsches mid-engined cars. is it a 6 or a 4 cylinder?
6. Do not stare at your new car for extended periods of time. The paint has not had enough time to dry properly and your staring is not helping.
Also don't fill up fuel after midnight!
*and staring will cause the clear coat to disintegrate.
DarkMan2555 classic Hyunday problem 😂😂 Same with the late 90s accords
Lmao
Juan Cruz all 90’s Honda’s really. My civics (93 and 95) both have terrible fading and clear coat issues. Sucks.
Gental warm ups and cool downs with any engine regardless if new or old. Short trips equates to severe usage. Good video!
Points one and two. Don't BABY IT. Run it somewhat aggressively once in a while when safety considerations allow for it. Any good engine builder will tell you the first 100 miles are critical for ring sealing and they seal best if you can vary load and speed during that initial period. Again, within reason. BTW, I enjoy your video's. Thanks for sharing.
That’s for performance engines without piston rings..
Why am i watching this when i know full well i can't afford a damn car.
Lol
BatBoyShark well now you can school people who actually have cars and make yourself sound like a mechanical guru magician 👍🏼👌🏼
preach my man
Kind of like how you watch porn knowing full well you'll be a virgin forever?
HAHAHA I spit out my coffee reading this
"except for rental cars" HAHAAHAHA
Rocket Surgery TRUE FACTS 😂😂😂🤣🤣😂
NEVER BUY AN ENTERPRISE CAR EVER
J Parker I made the mistake of buying one. It's missing a vent handle. I've had it for 8 years. Never had to repair anything.
I believe I've driven rental cars which had 'restrictor plates' installed on the intake. Geez!
Funniest comment I've read today thank you
So wait a second... The Acura NSX is a USED CAR sold as NEW!
best comment! I love your sense of humor!!!
It’s already a used POS anyway.
Nah, only the engine is used, the rest is new :P
I just made your 69th like!
Nope , only the engine is used. LOL
Glad I watched this, had no idea there was a “break-in period”.. 😔🤦🏻♂️
1:30 - Points 1 and 2: Don't floor it, don't bring it to red line
5:50 - Point 3: Don't use cruise control
6:38 - Point 4: Avoid short distance travel
7:34 - Point 5: Avoid towing
cmfrtblynmb okay but thank you bc I really didn’t want to watch the whole video
Me either 😄👍
Thx fam
Thanks pal
MVP
Except for rental cars... lol
don't be gentle, it's a rental
he meant it in a way that rental cars mostly have some miles put on them when you get them
Of course! Why wouldn't you push the fastest car in the world? 😂😂
Edgar González Casasola top gear?
My Wifes Sister bought a Dodge Avenger Rental car and she never had a problem with it,its the Pentastar V-6 that has some get up and go around 6 flat 0-60 a little under once broken in (I tried it lol) So far 90,000 trouble free miles upon the 12,000 that were on the car 102,000 total and I just serviced it at it runs ,drives fine no odd engine sounds etc..Personally I wouldn't buy a X Rental or Used or a new car with anything 1 mile or more.
Great video! Much appreciated. I just finished the 1600 km break-in for my new 2023 Crosstrek PHEV. I had the hardship of having to travel 400km at the end of every week (200km to and from). I never used cruise control and I tried never to stay at a constant speed for more than a few minutes at a time. Basically 90-115, drop back to 98 and then back up to 115...Back down again. Not the perfect break-in process, but best I could do! I was able to do a lot of start, stop, cruise a bit in the cities between long trips. I also put it in "Save Mode" before hitting highway speeds so that that the engine had some warm up time before the eventual save mode (electric + engine) highway parts of the trip. I never floored it, slammed on the brakes or forced the engine from 0.
I just took her in today @ 1800 km for the first check-up, oil change, etc. Now on to driving normally with cruise control and such!
I always appreciate your channel. Stating the facts in a conversational way. Always good information. Thank you and be encouraged!
Rental car = Race car galore.... Days of thunder
that's what the "R" on the shifter is for "Race".
+Roscoe P hahahaha
oh god, I can just imagine someone believing that and trying to start a race in R XD
My all time favorite Tom Cruise movie! Rubbins racin!
Romaobb Mater from Cars is using the Racing Gear... because MIRRORS
You would be great friends with James May 😄
Chris fix it 😂
I need to see this
Nico van Os haha
+SirWheatThin
Captain Slowe.
I’ve heard differing opinions on whether to break-in or not. It never made sense to me to not have some break-in time before pushing a vehicle hard. This channel provides the best argument for break-in...especially with the tires and brakes.
Thanks for all your videos, always a lot of good info that you explain well on a lot of topics!!
Happy to hear it, I appreciate you watching! :)
why am I watching this i know i cant afford a new car
You never will if you never think about it.
Jake Carson
New cars for every budget
Jake Carson could be a blessing in disguise - used cars are often even better value! Except Subaru... They retain like crazy
Why buy new if you have to break it in, breath in the glue fumes, worry about the first scratch on the paint, and get tremendous depreciation in value. Buy a newish car instead that has been broken in already :)
But then you never know how it was treated by the previous owner. You don't know if it was ever broken in properly, regular oil changes, etc. Why take that risk on a car you care about?
As Jeremy Clarkson says...
"Go mental in a rental"
Done it. That's why I won't by a rental.
The laugh I needed today lol
No curb too steep, no ditch too deep...it's a rental!
I read that in his voice😂
dont be gentle, its a rental!
Thank you for this video! I knew the basics, but I really wanted a confirmation from an expert. The explanation for the various parts of break-in are really helpful.
I’m picking up my new Ford Escape SEL tomorrow. It has less than 50km on it. I now need to put 1150 km on it before I tow my trailer in a month and a half. 😁
Yeah but you know what I am the driver in that same dealership and I put those 50 mi on your Ford and I beat the living s*** out of it for those first 50 miles I first started it up and I rev the engine for for 15 minutes straight and watch the smoke to come out the back didn't see none then I threw it and drive and and then Florida that s*** for the first 20 mi and then another 15 me 15 minutes rather of full throttle and neutral and then after that another 10 mi of hard driving and then another 20 minutes of neutral full be happy with your new truck buddy
When I bought my new car 2 months ago I asked the dealership if there was any break in period I needed to know about and they told me no its not a performance car it's an Optima turbo. This kind of makes me think they may have been lying in going to check my manual after work now. Thanks for the vid man glad I ran across it.
lol. They should tell their salesman. How much do you think the stealership itself beats the cars xD
if you say so
A lot :(
I worked for a luxury car dealership as a valet, trust me, every car coming off that lot has been floored...multiple times...probably by multiple people, including the mechanics. Getting gas, performing the initial ride inspection, and occasionally dealer trades.
cliffjumpingisfun haha, the reason I bought it up is I also work at a stealership.
How many employees at dealerships were NYC taxi cab drivers?
It probably goes without saying, but, don't crash it.
Sathrandur I thought you had to bang it in a wall first just to loosen it up a bit
You sure about that? I'm not seeing that in the manual anywhere
+dogger20011
You're right... It actually doesn't say not to crash it.
Sathrandur It's not mentioned in the manual, then it's a myth!
Sathrandur brand new cars have an anti crash system that lasts for the first 1,500 miles
I have run in a 24 new cars (evenly split between petrol and diesels) over the last 40 years which varied from Lada 1200s to a Peugeot 205 GTi and other small performance hatches. This video matches my own findings, especially the recommendation to use a light throttle and moderate revs for the first 200-300 miles whilst varying engine speed then gradually step on it a bit more as the miles progress. I would also advise against labouring the engine at all when running in as this can cause serious damage, possibly more than initially driving too hard.
I actually didn't know you needed to break-in your engine. As a first-time brand-new buyer next month, perfect timing! Thanks.
Can't wait to break in my new 2017 Audi S3! Thanks for ALL your tips!
+Jubei Kibugame very welcome, congrats on the new ride!
Well this back and forth has been very encouraging! I estimate I'll get my S3 mid-December and I'll report back immediately if it bursts into a fireball of angry pixies! In other news, I have known half a dozen Jeep owners who gave up after going bankrupt or insane twisting wires, and as many or more Audi owners who are very happy. Have a nice day!
*whips out piston from nowhere*
HERES MY MASSIVE PISTON
I read that in the Mr. Regular voice.
Daniel Andrews it's the one that came flying back through the firewall after redlining his new car-while waiting for the tow truck he decided to make a video about the top 5 rules that he broke in the last 5 minutes
Daniel Andrews that's the piston that came flying back through the firewall after he redlined his new car-while waiting for the tow truck he decided to make a video about the top five mistakes that he made in the last five minutes
Chances are it's a Subaru piston seeing that he's in one and the fact that they are know to go through motors the way they go through gas and oil.
The speed variance has a purpose on break-in which you did not mention. As the rings slide against the wall of the cylinder, wall it takes off microscopic layers of metal off those walls. When this is done at a constant speed the rings will essentially go to the same place at the top of cycle. Now here is where it gets weird. A lip forms at the top of the stroke on that cylinder wall. if at some point the engines is revved to red line, the heat and the stroke causes the connecting rod to stretch every so slightly which could cause the rings to run into that lip, which could cause the rings to explode, which would cause you to have a multi thousand dollar rebuild. So after break-in, you should do a high RMP periodically after the engine is warmed up, so as to keep that lip from forming.
Wait, why do it makes the rings explode?
Factory tested before inserting into car?
Thanks for the info on the cruise control
pretty sure i broke all these rules just on my drive home from the dealer on my ram lol
Same here, no way I was going to spend 4 hrs taking surface streets home from the dealer.
lol i had a 600 km trip on my way back home and i went 160 as my average speed now i feel so bad...
My car is 28 years old tho
I broke all those rules on my test drive with the sales girl. 🤤
ahh that's ok it's just a shitty pickup truck
jokes on you my redline is at 4000........
lol. Actually I think that means... the joke is on you. :P
Cummins?
Иіск Рагіllб Same here
Diesel?
HOW
Excellent video. Thank you.
So, what kind of problems you could get from an improper break in procedure? And how soon you can notice these problems?
Well said. Very basic info we all need. Over the years I've heard about every piece of BS available on this. You make sense.
My car is brand new it only has 178,000 miles, should I wait till it breaks in at 200,000 miles before I floor it?
Hey Hey rebuilt it now!!!! and follow the instructions😂
Floor it
you're right. it's a brand new second hand car.
Lmao a brand new hoopty
I would give it until about 210,000 miles just to play it safe. Then you can floor it as much as you want afterwards.
I uninstalled my airbags from my brand new car because if I crash it I will want to die
don't forget to cut the seat-belt !
Chris Mogzter 69 rip
facts
Why?
if you are going to drive in a wall plz take me with you too
I agree with you for the most part, and what differences we may have are negligible , but I've been in a engine dyno room where they take a new or a rebuilt engine and ultimately do full engine pulls to max rpm's. In fairness they do some break in runs, and gradually raise the rpm's, but with in 25 mins or so, the engine is run to max rps for max power, packaged up, and shipped to the customer.
Good video BTW, and would be good advice for some one who had no ideal how to perform a break-in
Well i wouldn’t buy one of those engines!
@@Wazza722 Ill take a engine broken in on a dyno 1000 times over vs a brand new engine babied. Not trying to be rude, but you don't know what you're talkin about
Great advices ! Thanks for the video.. i am just getting my brand new car these days, so these advices are very very appreciated ! Thanks a lot
I couldn't wait for 1,000 miles to do some hard accelerations on my grandpas new gt350, I mean it was almost there like 750 miles...worth it
My Kawasaki motorcycle also says 4000 rpm... which is very hard on a 250 cc motorcycle with next to no power. I was glad when that was over.
I broke my Acura RSX-S in pretty hard and it was a great running car. It seemed to hit it's stride after about 100K. I sold it with 217K miles and it was an amazing engine the whole time. It did use about 1/2 quart of oil every oil change but other Hondas that I've owned did the same thing. I just broke in my GTI semi hard.... a few short full throttle bursts after a couple hundred miles. It's feeling really sassy now at 5K. :)
Should if I bought brand new cars and only kept them for a couple of years I would do the same s*** cuz every time I buy a used car that I want to keep it but it's always something wrong with it it may not show up in the beginning but boy it shows up I don't know how to change the oil but most of the time I get good vehicles cuz I look around hard and I pay a little money for them because the more expensive shyt is using garbage when you're buying used garbage that people think they want all that money back when they beat on it so that's how it goes oh yeah and Grandma cars😊 keep beating y o u r meet buddy
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make it.
Keep it under 4000 rpms
*computer monitor displays rpms above 4000*
Stress test probably
Lmao
Although I agree entirely with the video another tip(which my father used to do on the many engines he built for friends) is change the oil after no more then 300 initial miles even if the dealership/manufacturer says 1000 or 3000 or whatever. The first 300 miles creates the most metal particles. The acura engine lab that breaks in their engine in 150 miles runs continuous oil through the engine to constantly flush the new parts as the bed into one another.
Very well said and compiled .
Extremely helpful. Thank you
I accidentally revved my new car's engine to 4001 rpm. Is it totalled?
ItsMeHammie yes
It did not worry the Honda guy..
Throw it out, buy a new one.
warranty/ insurance might cover it if you change your story a little bit
You just anticipated its endings, nothing more.
What happens when you get a used car?! You're at the mercy of the original owner? That's like playing the Lottery.
Used cars are certainly a lottery, but there are a lot of great videos out there about how to inspect them (ChrisFix and EricTheCarGuy both have a great series on this).
New cars are a lottery as well, lots of cars leave the factory as lemons.
Personally, I wouldn't buy a new car ever, it's just throwing money out the window.
Personally, I would never buy a used car. It's just throwing time out the window checking the car and speaking with people and hope to god they hadn't fucked the car up. I also don't want to spend time looking for the right model and color, with a new car, I just go in the dealership and hand in the money, and get what car I want.
That's a high price to pay for having little patience.
I'd rather just pay for a good mechanic to go over a used car thoroughly. To each his own.
Valid points, but they can't be universally applied in every situation.
I love BMW. My first two cars have been, BMW's. They have both been 2nd hand. Both are (after general maintenance and some minor repairs) fine.
I don't think luxury car 1st buyers, will ruin their car with a bad break in. For many, its a significant purchase, for retirement or work, and as such, they don't want to destroy them.
The benefit, as you may already know, of buying second hand is buying fantastic cars for a low price.
I drive a facelifted e46 coupe. It makes old men who buy brand new mazda's extremely jealous.
Couldn't find the chapter in my book for new break in on a Cruze. Checked all over the internet.
Going to go with the same procedure I used on my Dart.
Great video. Thank you for the information
Very informative. Thank you.
*After flooring it*
"Now me and the mad scientist gotta rip apart the block, and replace the PISTON RINGS you fried!"
Can you do Things You Should and Should Not Do in a Cold (In Winter) Car? So much misinformation.
Jeb Bush Come on, gimme a break
That's a humorous thumbnail, though.
why do you care Jab? you're in Florida
He probably spends a lot of time driving back and forth to the DC area though.
Weld the diff, drive sideways until the snow is gone in the spring.
Amazing information and exactly what I was looking for. 👌🏾
When I was in my early years I rebuilt a number of engines. I can tell from experience the longer you take to break in an engine the better it is from an engine. The idea is to seat in the piston rings, bushings, and bearings. Keep the RPM on the low side, when driving do not keep the RPM constant as like using the cruise control on the highway. Vary RPM, and do not exceed about 3500 RPM. A soft break in is the best. Drive it normally and do not floor it. There are always some imperfections between surfaces. I do the break in for over 3000 miles. Then I do my first oil change. I use synthetic oil after the engine is broken in. When I buy a new car, I take an easy drive for at least 40 minutes of driving minimum mostly city driving.
Thanks for sharing this
Sounds like you have an easy life.
Rental = Ride enhanced nicely to accelerate lawlessly
don't be gentle, it's a rental
MCHFacts have you ever used a rental car lol
lol
i killed a rental car on the motorway doing the mandatory top speed test.
The tow truck driver came and when i tried to get it up the flatbed it was making the most horrendous noise of death and made no power. It sounded like rods and bearings were trying to pummel their way out the block.
He asked if it was mine and when i told him it was a rental he was like 'ahh no problem' and forced it to crawl up onto the back of the truck under its own power. dumped it at the rental place and got my replacement the next morning, lol.
03056932R
Don't they test the Nissan GT-R on the track after its built?
yes, at full throttle no less...
Yup they do for all GT-R spec. They don't go enough to fully break in your engine, but they don't go full track. there's a video you YT that basically takes it around a small track for less then 3 mins to ensure everything is is seated properly.
engine is first set on dyno and thats where its break-in
Who tests them? No company is gonna test all the new cars.
ady gombos Nissan tests their GT-R motors on dyno and slightly track run.
I am Italian: first congratulation for pronuntiation and clear voice like a great TV anchorman. This help me a lot. The other your strong points you already know them. Thanks a lot
Very good information about this subject you know your stuff
It'd be nice if a manufacturer just took two or three brand new engines and did easy driving break-in, normal driving break-in, and aggressive driving break-in and then showed the wear side by side for a final and definitive answer to this. (No, this actually isn't that expensive to a car company. It's R&D cost.)
I was always told that you should drive it like you would normally drive it because then it'll break-in to your driving habits instead of soft driving and then a complete change after 1,000-1,500 miles. Obviously you shouldn't be flooring it much during normal daily driving, but you probably won't be using only 50% throttle and keep it under 3,000 rpm either.
They have very expensive simulation software. While it's still a simulation and thus not completely accurate they still feel the need to waste a few pages in the manual on how to use the car during that period.
qwesx
I guess so. Just seems like when arguing back and forth on which way is better goes on for decades it'd be easier just to have a definite answer.
Could also be that wear in needs to be done differently with normal oil than with synthetic too. I'd just be very curious to see the wear side by side.
TheGreatMunky well one thing is obvious. more gas translates into more energy. more energy will definately increase the rate of wear. its just a matter of how much or even if it is worth noting at all.
Alex V4
Agreed. A side-by-side would be nice. Engines are built daily, so this should've been done by a manufacturer by now.
As Jason mentioned, I think the problem ultimately comes down to your manufacturing tolerance. There's variability in how well assembled one car is compared to the next car on the line, and each car will have different break-in needs because a car has so many different components. Drivers will also be driving these cars under different environments, so the load on the car is different from buyer to buyer. So you have to account for these variability as well.
I am an engineer with one of largest manufacturers of engines in the world, a company that sells billions of dollars of them every year. Items #1 and #2 are terribly incorrect.
EVERY engine that we manufacture goes from assembly into a test cell where it is started, warmed up, and sent immediately to 100% full load. Yes, it is "floored."
When we do engine testing, even prototype engines are assembled (mostly with Lubriplate 105), warmed up with standard petroleum oil, and immediately go to full rated horsepower while the dyno pulls them down from rated HP to the lowest RPM of torque peak.
Almost every automotive manufacturer follows this practice as well. So do motorcycle manufacturers. I personally saw new Ducatis going off the line in Bologna into a chassis dyno where they were started, briefly warmed, and then immediate run up AT FULL LOAD all the way to redline.
Why do they do this?
1) The freshly honed/machined surfaces can only do an ideal break-in when they are, in fact, fresh. Once the asperities and surfaces begin to smooth, they lose the ability to mate to each other properly.
2) It prevents customer complaints of high oil consumption and poor MPG because customers tend to follow outdated, bad advice like babying a new engine.
Back when machining and honing technology was far less advanced, and tolerances could not be held as well, there was perhaps some validity to babying a new engine. But this advice is woefully out of date.
Instead, the best thing you can for a new engine is:
1) Warm it up to full operating temperature
2) Do several full throttle runs that stop well short of redline
3) Idle the engine to let it cool a bit
4) Repeat steps 2&3 several times
5) Change the oil and filter.
Done.
By and large, new engines require almost no break in at all because of the "abuse" they suffer at the factory. That's why they can ship new cars like Corvettes with Mobil 1 from the factory. No need to worry about the syntehtic preventing break-in when the engine is already broken in before installed in the car.
I really want Engineering Explained to respond to this
The strongest evidence of my point is the offering of synthetic oil as a factory fill. EVERY engine manufacturer recommends against breaking in an engine with synthetic oil. The superior lubricity of synthetics can delay or even prevent a good break-in for (especially) piston rings.
So if you can't break in the engine with synthetic oil, then the only way something like Mobil 1 can be factory fill in Corvettes, M3s and others is if the engine is *already* broken in when you buy it-- and before it is filled with synthetic.
Do you mind expanding on this a little for those of us less informed? (I would like to take the best care of my new car that I can...)
The language in the owners manual--Which to my interpretation seems to match pretty well with the video--is as follows:
"No special break-in is necessary, but a few precautions in the first 1,000 km (600 miles) may add to the performance, economy, and life of the vehicle.
- Do not race the engine.
- Do not maintain one constant speed,
either slow or fast, for a long period of time.
- Do not drive constantly at full-throttle or high engine rpm for extended periods of time.
- Avoid unnecessary hard stops.
- Avoid full-throttle starts."
Could you perhaps explain why this guidance is in the manual?
In case it matters, it's a 2.0 L Mazda SkyActiv-G I4 mated to a 6-speed manual transmission.
The owner's manual is self-contradictory. First it indicates that no special break-in is required, but says you should treat it differently for 600 miles.
By my personal and professional experience, every word after the "no special break-in is necessary" was put there by request of a lawyer or accountant, not by an Engineer.
Jonathan Castillo if u bought the car new from a deal don't worry....if u just built an engine and put it in a car then u gotta have a break in period
Depending on the setup, the rings essentially seat on the starter. A lot of what is going around is either old school thought due to subpar machining processes (especially finishing).
Thank you it was very informative and useful! :)
I'd struggle buying a new car, just knowing the depreciation in value after its out of the showroom.
Jake McCoy is right but I am going to add this I don't mind doing work to a car that's reduced for a reason , I'm just a bit tight and never buy from a dealership. Especially bikes, some are almost 2x the price from a private sale.
Buhs I have the money, I just hate wasting it. The only way I'd buy new from a dealership if it was a new design and something that doesn't go up for sale too much used like a koenigsegg, though I don't have the spare finances to buy one of them at the moment. I find that buying from the 1st owner or 2nd is the way to go, especially If they're selling it to get the newest year
Tool0GT92 That's what I mean, but from a private seller
That's why I let someone else drive it for the first year or two and 10-15,000 miles. They knock about 20% off of the cars original value and I'm getting a car that's almost near as makes no difference to being brand new.
Tool0GT92 Yeah you gotta take it into your own hands to inspect it properly. I can't expect your average Joe to know what to look for, with my experience I can see what needs what. I see what you mean, I guess It really depends on how experienced you are with motors
well nevermind.. every car i buy already has 200k
Finally! A comprehensive explanation on the break-in!
Thanks alot this video was really helpful . One Like Added 👍
Lol I love the (except for rental cars)
Snowfeet when did he say it
at the start, it was just a piece of text
Thee Best 0:07 at the top
ohh i didnt read it
Snowfeet Haha
I babied my 2013 Scion FR-S as the manual instructed. Car was stock, dealer maintained, regular oil changes, motor blown within 2 years. I broke my 2014 Camry V6 in hard. Car runs like a top, mileage is excellent and oil consumption is minimal between oil changes. Another one of those “it depends” kind of questions.
@The Heretic along with the Subaru rotting exhaust system syndrome!
Thanks for this
Thank you, you convinced me, good work.
This is why I will never buy a brand new vehicle that has been sitting on a dealer lot. Idiots out there test drive these things like they're in a action movie. I will test drive what they have and then order my own right from the factory exactly the way I want it and without some bad history already on it.
That's exactly what I do!
///AMG If you only keep your car for a few years, then go for it. When I buy a new vehicle, I want it to last beyond the warranty.
damn man thats a good point never thought of that
Ya know that'd be a really good policy for a dealership. Just have like 2-3 cars on the lot of each kind of car with different options/models strictly for test driving. Then say "no you can't have that one, you have to order your very own". I mean yeah there'd often be a customer going -_- or :( but think of all the space savings in the dealership's lot.
Dale Couture At the end of my test drive, the car I bought had 5 miles on it, two weeks ago :)
Now it has 1500 :(
I recommend driving easy for the first 3000 miles or so, and doing an early oil change. You want want metal shavings out of your crankcase as soon as practical.
it's completely unnecessary imo, but nothing wrong with doing it the way you like!
You have really good informative videos.
*When I collected my Mercedes B200 CDi (W245) at Rastatt (Germany) in 2006 I asked about 'running in' and was informed "do not exceed 3000 RPM in the first 1000 miles." On hitting the Autobahn I found that equalled **_120 MPH_** so no problem. It's still running fine and giving over 50 MPG so great advise.*
Casually whips out a piston.... This dude is who I aspire to be
You know if we where talking about 1970's level of surface finish and materials I would have to agree with you 100%. The thing is the surface finish on engines friction surfaces is fantastic on a lot of brands. The use of moly rings and and rollerized rockers and low tensions rings is a game changer I think. Sure WOT on a new engine might not be the best thing but 1/2 to 3/4 WOT and up to low speeds from a rolling start like 10 mph up to 50mph and plenty of engine breaking(standard transmission) is claimed by some to be the best way to properly seat rings the first 150 miles. Dodge owners manuals from the 1970's all the way up through my Dad's 2001 said to do some hard pulls during break in the owners manual. I think the RPM limits though of staying below 4000 RPM makes perfect sense! Most recommendation in Owners Manuals are aimed at idiotic owners and lowest common denominator across all product lines few OEM owner's manuals have vehicle specific recommendations until you get to Super High Performance Cars or 1 Ton Trucks most of the rest are cut and past. Most OEM's do not even trust the customer to make intelligent decisions on oil viscosity based on usage and ambient temperature let alone tracking the car versus daily driver. You get one recommended oil viscosity and that is it usually 5W20, 5W30 for most OEM's in North America.
Traditionally when most cars where rear wheel drive the biggest reason for keeping speeds low during break-in was due to ring and pinon temperatures not because of the piston rings. Lapping ring and pinion gears and matching them very closely is expensive and time consuming and add's complication to staging at the production level. When you rebuild old engines the general rule of thumb is to fire them up quickly after priming the system and to keep the RPM's above 2000 and not to rev because it slings the oil off the cam and the off the rings while increasing heat and loading especially at the wrist pin. Drop to low and the cams often took a hit.
My Dad basically does what Acura does but he does not have a computer programmed dynamic chassis dyno to do it for him!
You might want to take a look at Honda and Toyota factory fill used oil analysis UOA after the recommended oil change interval OCI. You will see some 10,000 mile UOA of factory fill during break-in in some Honda's that have show insanely low break-in wear with unremarkable factory oil with low really good particle counts. Same thing from Toyota. You can tell where the wear is taking place from by which metals are in the UOA.
So it is not that I really disagree to much with you only that I think people are often living a few decades behind in terms of how gingerly they treat their car's during an extended break-in period that really has no basis in fact. Since UOA is so cheap and you can get a particle count with it as well there is no need to trust the OEM 100% blindly you can now do your own research as well. Int he case of GM I have seen UOA of most of their V8's and often even at 50,000 on the power train using great oils and modest OCI and light use the engine will have terrible wer number's compared to a modern Toyota or Honda I4 or V8 with cheap oil and max OCI. I think you have to look at production methods, materials used, surface finish of the parts when it leaves the factory, power density etc....
buckaroobonsi555 ...your long winded and provide zero evidence to back up your opinions. There is absolutely nothing special about a Honda or Toyota regarding engine manufacturing vs a VW or GM or Ford! Sorry. I've seen 1st hand the very careful & high tech engine build facilities of Ford / GM & Honda 1st hand due to my profession. I gave 1st hand experience. Not a $20 UOA of 1 car beat up vs another better cared for etc etc. 100% wrong internet jargon.
gm and toyota manufacture some of the most durable engines on the planet if broken in and maintained properly. if neither condition is met, both brands result in engines that drink oil.
this information is gold
Good tips. I really enjoy your channel.
Needed this reminder. I'm swapping in a new engine into my 15 year old jeep soon
I heard that its best to break it in the way you plan to drive it. I usually follow this rule after the first 300 miles and one oil change, then I open it up really good. Never had an issue in my life.
I'm fighting this now, in 2023. I went easy on it until up-to-temperature for 20 mins, then used moderate power at most for the rest of the milage. I drove routes that saw regular slowing/stopping for lights, junctions, etc., to ensure the engine didn't sit at one speed.
Awesome youtube channel keep up the great work.
Great advice, thanks.
Just ordered a Golf GTI Clubsport! This is Gold to know! Thanks! :)
amazing how is it?

I'm about to get 2007 subaru wrx sti
Why
Buy A volvo xc90 new shape hybrid. You won't regret it. My M5 was a thirsty beast. Damn expensive to insure too.
Thank you for the clarification! City driving is a good way to break in a new car, regardless of its type, e.g. economy, sports, race, etc. i've been mocked repeatedly since decades ago just because i read and followed the recommendation of the user's manual.
yeah, then there is the youtuber test drivers that floor it when test driving the car on the highway LOL
The info in the owners manuals are for pussies.
***** Power armor is for pussies
Tyler Loyd says the kid who most likely does not have a car.
***** lol
Always enjoy your indept analysis of all automotive components.
thanks really helpful.
The weirdest thing is i work in a fire department and all new vehicules we get don't really get all the tips you said but don't seem to suffer adverse effect.
Not following those advice won't really break the cars, you probably just won't get the best performance the vehicle has to offer. Also, some vehicles like the Acura he mentioned are already broken-in when they hit the dealer.
The lancer I have now is first hand and completed these recommendations. Now done 110 000 km, not using oil and stills feels like new. Using a top quality oil is a must over the live of the motor.
Thanks 😊 very informative Sir.
I floored my 2015 Civic during the test drive. It had 4 miles on it and was delivered to the dealer only a month prior to me purchasing it.
40k miles and 4 years later, it still runs like new and I still manage 40+mpg with no issue and have power when I need it. I mean, as much power as a 1.8L can have.
Also, I would like to know what emergency scenario would REQUIRE you to exceed 4k rpms haha.