Fantastic video! Made taking this off a breeze. My only suggestion is to take the new rotor down to Lowes and get some metric machine screws that screw into the two holes on it....Use those screws to get the old rotor off, it makes the whole thing so much easier! Good luck!
Thanks! I used this to access my wheel studs for replacement. I skipped disassembling the caliper via the 12mm bolts since I wasn't after the brakes, instead skipping to breaking the 14mm caliber carriage bolts. As mentioned, they are a beast - I shredded some cheapo sockets trying, but when I switched to hex-pattern, quality sockets I was able to break them loose - the rear-most 14mm came loose, no prob but of course the tightfit, front-most were a total pain. I was able to get my socket onto the front 14mm bolt from the rear because that bolt was cooperative and just whack it with a hammer once - though the finger access from the front is easier once the bolt is loose. I didn't have an 8mm bolt either, so I again revisited the hammer - it seems like some decent thumps towards the edge of the rotor's hub flange-agummer loosened it for me, but I put in a good 2-3 dozen whacks before my rotor came loose. From there a tie-rod removal tool got those shredded wheel bolts outta there! There are videos on using lug nuts and washers to pull your new wheel studs in; which is what I did - by hand: it sucks. And, then reverse the process and torque (caliper carriage bolts @ 17 ft/lb & lugnuts @ 61.5 ft/lb). It was simple thanks to watching you do it first - THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
A easier way to remove the rotor than using a hammer is to thread 8 mm bolts into bolt holes on rotor. Reference: Page 4C-7 (Rear Brakes) of 2009 Suzuki SX4 (RW420) Service Manual.
yeah i was wondering wtf he was doing ive done 4 sets of these using the bolts works a million times better i tossed 2 bolts in the glove box for future use
If you are replacing the rotor you are better off smacking it around the outside of the rotor. Then you won't have to worry about accidentally hitting the lugs 😁 And use a 2-5 lb sledge. Not a carpenters hammer...
I need help with my 2006 G6 pontiac the car will start in the morning fine. But after work when I drive to go home or someplace else, I shut it down and then try to start it back on nun happen. I I have to let it sit for a few hours before it can start back on. I changed the battery, starter and they even told me it was a fuse problem when i took it at Tire kingdom. so i guess they change some fuse in it. But minutes later after I left da place, stopped at the car wash the car didn't want to start again. plz I need help. this problem causing me from moving on with my life. I can't go anywhere beside work.
Listen man, if you can't do it right then do not do it at all. One of the most important and difficult parts is how to remove the 14 mm carriage pins that secure the bracket. Not only they need some serious torque but the crucial part is how to access the one towards the front of the car with enough leverage to get it to break. All this is absent in your video, so here's a thumbs down for you. Thanks but no thanks!.
Fantastic video! Made taking this off a breeze. My only suggestion is to take the new rotor down to Lowes and get some metric machine screws that screw into the two holes on it....Use those screws to get the old rotor off, it makes the whole thing so much easier! Good luck!
This is incredibly important; it will make removal of the old rotor so much easier. Great tip, thanks!
Thanks! I used this to access my wheel studs for replacement. I skipped disassembling the caliper via the 12mm bolts since I wasn't after the brakes, instead skipping to breaking the 14mm caliber carriage bolts. As mentioned, they are a beast - I shredded some cheapo sockets trying, but when I switched to hex-pattern, quality sockets I was able to break them loose - the rear-most 14mm came loose, no prob but of course the tightfit, front-most were a total pain. I was able to get my socket onto the front 14mm bolt from the rear because that bolt was cooperative and just whack it with a hammer once - though the finger access from the front is easier once the bolt is loose. I didn't have an 8mm bolt either, so I again revisited the hammer - it seems like some decent thumps towards the edge of the rotor's hub flange-agummer loosened it for me, but I put in a good 2-3 dozen whacks before my rotor came loose. From there a tie-rod removal tool got those shredded wheel bolts outta there! There are videos on using lug nuts and washers to pull your new wheel studs in; which is what I did - by hand: it sucks. And, then reverse the process and torque (caliper carriage bolts @ 17 ft/lb & lugnuts @ 61.5 ft/lb). It was simple thanks to watching you do it first - THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
Excellent vid no BS to the point in what I needed to know
Thanks
Torque:
Front Bracket to Hub: 61.5 ftlbs
Front Caliper pin bolts: 19 ftlbs
Rear Bracket to Hub: 43.5 ftlbs
Rear Caliper pin bolts: 17 ftlbs
A easier way to remove the rotor than using a hammer is to thread 8 mm bolts into bolt holes on rotor. Reference: Page 4C-7 (Rear Brakes) of 2009 Suzuki SX4 (RW420) Service Manual.
John Waka All I can say is thanks for the tip! Beat on this mother for 10 min and nothing....threaded a bolt in and it was off in a min! Thank you!!
yeah i was wondering wtf he was doing ive done 4 sets of these using the bolts works a million times better i tossed 2 bolts in the glove box for future use
If you are replacing the rotor you are better off smacking it around the outside of the rotor. Then you won't have to worry about accidentally hitting the lugs 😁
And use a 2-5 lb sledge. Not a carpenters hammer...
Very true but I didnt have any bolts and most diys wont have bolts.
tony shots uh o
I need help with my 2006 G6 pontiac the car will start in the morning fine. But after work when I drive to go home or someplace else, I shut it down and then try to start it back on nun happen. I I have to let it sit for a few hours before it can start back on. I changed the battery, starter and they even told me it was a fuse problem when i took it at Tire kingdom. so i guess they change some fuse in it. But minutes later after I left da place, stopped at the car wash the car didn't want to start again. plz I need help. this problem causing me from moving on with my life. I can't go anywhere beside work.
Did you ever figure out what the problem was?
Listen man, if you can't do it right then do not do it at all. One of the most important and difficult parts is how to remove the 14 mm carriage pins that secure the bracket. Not only they need some serious torque but the crucial part is how to access the one towards the front of the car with enough leverage to get it to break. All this is absent in your video, so here's a thumbs down for you. Thanks but no thanks!.
i think your muscles are absent? you need leverage like that to crack a 14 mm bolt somethings wrong
If you can’t figure that out maybe have the ladies at Jiffy Lube take care of it for you, that way you won’t have to get your wittle hands dirty