In shopping around for vintage machines to restore/refurbish, I am always surprised at the number I encounter that people were apparently continuing to use with stripped or damaged wiring. But my grandfather was an electrician, and checking the wiring was something he taught me many moons ago. He also taught me to solder (we built a lightsaber together!), a skill that has come in very handy since I started working on vintage machines last year. These mid-century Japanese-built machines are fantastic. I was recently given one, a green Consew domestic machine (Model 970) that ran surprisingly well in the initial test, and only got better once it was properly cleaned and oiled. The thing weighs a TON, but stitches through just about anything. I only wish it had more space under the arm! Still would like to get a pink Atlas or a blue Morse, but I've got enough of a backlog on the bench for now. =D
There is just something super satisfying about your turbo cleaning of this cool old machine. Glad the owner gave the go ahead to make the repairs. White was the perfect choice for the bobbin winder tire.
I have been soldering for over 50 years and your soldering looks just fine. The only thing I would suggest is to make good strong mechanical connection from the wire to the lug by bending and crimping the joint after you have tinned the wires. It's nice to see someone do a good soldering job like you have. I watch a lot of people solder on RUclips and some of it makes me cringe, Nice work.
The pink Atlas is a gorgeous machine. It looks amazing now, it’s a great piece of mid century design. And they sew great, glad you fixed her up so she can awe people with general magnificence for another 60 years or so…
What a unique and gorgeous machine. I am glad that you rewired the motor. The Japanese made excellent motors. I also agree with a previous comment that you should make a mechanical connection first. I voted for the white tire. Looks best.
Great video Wes. I always caution people who use vintage machines that many machines are always on. Unplug after use or use a power strip attached to a light. When lights off machine is off. I’m glad to see you work on various vintage models. Love the look of this machine. Thank you your videos are so helpful.
I learned how to sew on an Atlas, back in early 70’s. I asked my mother to keep it for me …… but….. she gave it to my aunt😩. I did find one years ago on EBAY. Still sewing after all these years. I bought the first electronic Singer machine, ATHENA. It was used so much the rubber feed dogs wore down😮.
That’s a beautiful machine I have one from around that era I can’t remember the brand but mine is a different color like a bluish color I believe I haven’t looked at it in a long time I collect sewing machine’s and right now I have 16 I also do leather work and I have an industrial singer a Thompson mini walking foot and a cobra class 4 I also have an industrial serger and an industrial blind stitcher and you are so right a home machine is no comparison to an industrial they are very expensive but well worth the cost my cobra class 4 was around $4000 but I will hand it down and I take great care of all of my machines so I know they’ll probably be handed down by my kids to theirs I really enjoy your videos keep em coming 👍
Love the peachie-pink color and the Atlas branding font is sublime (graphic designer here). As for the bobbin tire, the more white translucent would be my pick.
Yikes! Looks like there was a mouse in the house! I learned a lot in this video. I'm trying to figure out why my old Singer is slow so you gave me some things to look at. And I appreciate your attention to detail but I found the concern about color of the bobbin wheel amusing - and I would have done black to match the other small accents on the machine, lol.
The 401A also has an issue with the wiring to the lamp. Lift top cover, to the right you will see two twist-on wire connectors. These are too small and may not be properly secured on the cables. Also, follow the cables and they pass very close to one of the gears towards the front of the machine.
Thanks for sharing, The perfect procedure to revive an old machine except for one missing important step which is the insulation test using a 500v /1000v dc tester between the motor body and the live lines to stress the insulation and see if it is safe to use. I suggest a Meger insulation tester or similar. Cheers
FYI... Lead doesn't vaporize until 750 degrees Fahrenheit. Until you reach that temp, you're smelling the rosin core flux fumes which are derived from pine tree sap. (Assuming you're not using Acid Core flux solder) Keep in mind the rosin based flux fumes can be problematic for asthmatic people.
I think, from my perspective, and since you didn't really have a matching color, I would have chosen a bobbin tire color that best matched the chrome, so translucent or white would have worked for me since it matches the reflecting light from the chrome.
I wish I would have found this video 1 day earlier! Yesterday I found my wife's grandmother's Fleetwood Deluxe 195 in the closet and decided to bring it back to life. I've never touched a sewing machine before, so I had no idea what to expect. First thing, the lamp cord insulation had disintegrated, like your motor cable. Second, the motor (exactly like yours, these must have been "cousin" make/models....) was completely frozen. Would not turn. And I could not get the case off, the rear bushing would not release the shaft and I didn't want to force it. Seeing this video, it is clear it would have let go if I kept applying force, but in the absence of this knowledge, I didn't know if there was a hidden c-clip or such. Liberal application of Blaster penetrating oil applied through oil ports did the job. Got it spinning by hand, albeit still a bit stiff. Put it on a variac and brought the voltage up slowly, got it spinning at around 50VAC, and then it really broke loose and spun up to full speed. Re-installed the motor, but it was really struggling to cycle the mechanism, would slip or stall often. Turning by hand, the action was not smooth, although I had no reference point as to what it should feel like. Just that the motor was struggling. OK, let's assume this thing needs oil and/or grease, after 25+years in the closet. I start oiling all the bushings I can find; underneath, in the side access and behind the front cover. The obvious oil ports in the castings and those 3 cool spring loaded oil caps on the top helped identify where to oil. Much better. Still seems to be getting stuck on a cam action near the front, that actuates the "dipping arm" (don't know the proper term). Little bit of lithium grease here, and on some rear cams, and vola, it is now operating like butter! The motor smoothly goes from very low speed to full speed, using the factory pedal (also same as in video.....those suckers get warm!). Had figure out that the bobbin clutch was not right, it wasn't disengaging the main action when loosened. Turns out it was just old oil and crud. Cleaned, oiled and now switching smoothly between bobbin wind mode and stitching mode. I don't know about any other sewing machines, but this little guy was very well made, the machining looks first rate. That was alot of fun, bring this back to life! Need a bobbin tire (do you have blue?), some spare needles and to figure out how to thread the machine....and "I'm sewing!!!" ( see Bill Murray sailing scene on What About Bob?).
So I have an old atlas I got at an estate sale and I took the pedal apart because it was stuck on and the inside component is broken. Where does one find a replacement?
Have you ever uses a 100 watt lightbulb in series with older machines? This is very popular with the amplifier repair crowd. If there are any shorts in the wiring the energy will be dissipated by the light bulb.
@@SewingMachineRepairGuy it works good. Most techs use a ceramic bulb socket from home depot and wire it in series with a plug socket. Techs that work on tube equipment swear buy it.
@dennislett7896 A Variac (variable autotransformer- Variac is a brand name that’s become a collective noun). He’s doing so he can supply a variable AC voltage to test the motor, without having to account for the unknown factors in the resistive foot control.
Good repair! Vapors from soldering do not contain lead because the iron does not reach a high enough temperature to vaporize the metal. However, there *is* lead danger from handling solder; do not eat or drink, touch your face, etc., until after washing your hands. Do not waste your money on lead-free solder because it's difficult to work with and does not make a good joint like leaded ("60/40") solder does. The vapors created by the soldering process are from the flux core, which is mostly a rosin. It's not poisonous but the smoke can exacerbate respiratory conditions such as asthma and bronchitis.
13:01 "Sometimes, in order to get it started melting, you gotta..." Please finish the thought. What is it we can do to get it started melting? 16:21 Where did you put the oil?
From what I hear, that motor sounds like a freight train. If the audio is accurate, the commutator needs reconditioning. The mica insulation is sitting proud of the copper. Good advice about being safe with electricity.
Can you help me please? I plugged a U.S. 140Volt Huskylock Serger, into a UK socket,and it tripped the fuse box. I bought a step down transformer,but nothing happens when I try to switch it on. 😢😓😓
Not bad for a newbie, but the armature should have been pulled and the commutator resurfaced and the mica between the segments cleaned. There was too much carbon which causes what is refer to as “ creeping current “ which is a slow kill to the armature. I use a old Emerson electric motor my Father rid up when I was a little boy with a large “drill chuck” to turn the rotor polishing commutator and each end of the rotor shaft that rotates in the motors brass bushing adding a little oil in the bushing also. I use a small triangular file and commutator cleaning and polishing bar and the clean commutator off with alcohol . Rotor shaft polish with crocus cloth😎 I still use it today at age 71yrs You have LOTS of potential Most IMPORTANTLY my father taught me to offer my work up to God every day with the promise to do my best with His Help! God Bless You Brother 😎
@@southothehighway no, crocus cloth for polishing the rotor shafts at each in to allow for smooth turning in the motor bushings , new brushes if necessary, Commutator resurfaced with small triangular CLEAN file we usually heat the brushes to “cook” any excessive oil from them. Commutator is polished with special commutator polishing bar or stick
Richard Givens, great advice on how to properly service the motor. I read in an old Singer service manual, to use a pencil eraser to clean the carbon off the commutator. I have done this a few times and it typically leaves the commutator a shinny copper color, and turns the eraser black.
This could be a great series for a guy whose wife has 7 machines. Might I ask that you spend more time on repairs and less on color coordination of rubber parts. Your soldering was OK, but I would have put a bit of shrink sleeve over the soldered ends. I used to repair electrical tools decades ago - I just never got inside of any sewing machines.
A pink Atlas is a status machine and it’s owners love the mid century aesthetic. Wes is correct to color coordinate the parts, it’s how they were shipped. Also, the man served as an electrician aboard Navy subs. He knows his stuff.
😮the man is giving us tons of info and knowledge along with some good blessings and your nit picking? If you never opened a machine don't judge. People enjoy him. I don't work on others machines just mine. And I loved him taking time for something as simple as a color. So 😜.
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
In shopping around for vintage machines to restore/refurbish, I am always surprised at the number I encounter that people were apparently continuing to use with stripped or damaged wiring. But my grandfather was an electrician, and checking the wiring was something he taught me many moons ago. He also taught me to solder (we built a lightsaber together!), a skill that has come in very handy since I started working on vintage machines last year.
These mid-century Japanese-built machines are fantastic. I was recently given one, a green Consew domestic machine (Model 970) that ran surprisingly well in the initial test, and only got better once it was properly cleaned and oiled. The thing weighs a TON, but stitches through just about anything. I only wish it had more space under the arm! Still would like to get a pink Atlas or a blue Morse, but I've got enough of a backlog on the bench for now. =D
There is just something super satisfying about your turbo cleaning of this cool old machine. Glad the owner gave the go ahead to make the repairs. White was the perfect choice for the bobbin winder tire.
I have been soldering for over 50 years and your soldering looks just fine. The only thing I would suggest is to make good strong mechanical connection from the wire to the lug by bending and crimping the joint after you have tinned the wires. It's nice to see someone do a good soldering job like you have. I watch a lot of people solder on RUclips and some of it makes me cringe, Nice work.
The pink Atlas is a gorgeous machine. It looks amazing now, it’s a great piece of mid century design. And they sew great, glad you fixed her up so she can awe people with general magnificence for another 60 years or so…
I would of used the orange one. I will really check my machines cords now!! And foot petals! Thank you for these videos!!
What a unique and gorgeous machine. I am glad that you rewired the motor. The Japanese made excellent motors. I also agree with a previous comment that you should make a mechanical connection first.
I voted for the white tire. Looks best.
Great video Wes. I always caution people who use vintage machines that many machines are always on. Unplug after use or use a power strip attached to a light. When lights off machine is off. I’m glad to see you work on various vintage models. Love the look of this machine. Thank you your videos are so helpful.
I learned how to sew on an Atlas, back in early 70’s. I asked my mother to keep it for me …… but….. she gave it to my aunt😩. I did find one years ago on EBAY. Still sewing after all these years. I bought the first electronic Singer machine, ATHENA. It was used so much the rubber feed dogs wore down😮.
Such a joy to watch you bring these machines back to a useful life!
Ahhh......Radio Shack. That place was my go to for so many things....I miss it.
Oh man. That machine is heckin awesome
That’s a beautiful machine I have one from around that era I can’t remember the brand but mine is a different color like a bluish color I believe I haven’t looked at it in a long time I collect sewing machine’s and right now I have 16 I also do leather work and I have an industrial singer a Thompson mini walking foot and a cobra class 4 I also have an industrial serger and an industrial blind stitcher and you are so right a home machine is no comparison to an industrial they are very expensive but well worth the cost my cobra class 4 was around $4000 but I will hand it down and I take great care of all of my machines so I know they’ll probably be handed down by my kids to theirs I really enjoy your videos keep em coming 👍
what a cool looking machine
Love the peachie-pink color and the Atlas branding font is sublime (graphic designer here). As for the bobbin tire, the more white translucent would be my pick.
Looks like an old service changed the cords that could be seen. Credit for thorough job Wes. Edit: Orange!
Yikes! Looks like there was a mouse in the house! I learned a lot in this video. I'm trying to figure out why my old Singer is slow so you gave me some things to look at. And I appreciate your attention to detail but I found the concern about color of the bobbin wheel amusing - and I would have done black to match the other small accents on the machine, lol.
I finally settled on a black tire as there is black on the insignia and below stitch length guide and it really looks nice.
The 401A also has an issue with the wiring to the lamp. Lift top cover, to the right you will see two twist-on wire connectors. These are too small and may not be properly secured on the cables. Also, follow the cables and they pass very close to one of the gears towards the front of the machine.
Outstanding attention to detail, shipmate!
Bravo Zulu-
V/r IS1 (former RM, DP, IT)
Thanks for sharing, The perfect procedure to revive an old machine except for one missing important step which is the insulation test using a 500v /1000v dc tester between the motor body and the live lines to stress the insulation and see if it is safe to use. I suggest a Meger insulation tester or similar. Cheers
FYI... Lead doesn't vaporize until 750 degrees Fahrenheit. Until you reach that temp, you're smelling the rosin core flux fumes which are derived from pine tree sap. (Assuming you're not using Acid Core flux solder) Keep in mind the rosin based flux fumes can be problematic for asthmatic people.
I love that Atlas and watching you work.
I was hoping to see you repair the bobbin winder. It would be great and very helpful if you could make a video about it.
be sure to avoid letting all the smoke out of the motor, once all the smoke leaks out, the motor won't run at all
Pink!! loves the contrast! Lovely video, thank you!
What is that gold thing?
Hello! Thanks for sharing. Beautiful sewing machine. Beige bobbin winder. Blessings
WOW, you have the first Variac ever made nice; vintage stuff
I got an Atlas and the wires were also bare on it too.
I think, from my perspective, and since you didn't really have a matching color, I would have chosen a bobbin tire color that best matched the chrome, so translucent or white would have worked for me since it matches the reflecting light from the chrome.
Nice little tuto, I don't know anything about Atlas, the machine is Japan made and looks similar to a Janome which are very smooth runners
I wish I would have found this video 1 day earlier! Yesterday I found my wife's grandmother's Fleetwood Deluxe 195 in the closet and decided to bring it back to life. I've never touched a sewing machine before, so I had no idea what to expect. First thing, the lamp cord insulation had disintegrated, like your motor cable. Second, the motor (exactly like yours, these must have been "cousin" make/models....) was completely frozen. Would not turn. And I could not get the case off, the rear bushing would not release the shaft and I didn't want to force it. Seeing this video, it is clear it would have let go if I kept applying force, but in the absence of this knowledge, I didn't know if there was a hidden c-clip or such. Liberal application of Blaster penetrating oil applied through oil ports did the job. Got it spinning by hand, albeit still a bit stiff. Put it on a variac and brought the voltage up slowly, got it spinning at around 50VAC, and then it really broke loose and spun up to full speed. Re-installed the motor, but it was really struggling to cycle the mechanism, would slip or stall often. Turning by hand, the action was not smooth, although I had no reference point as to what it should feel like. Just that the motor was struggling. OK, let's assume this thing needs oil and/or grease, after 25+years in the closet. I start oiling all the bushings I can find; underneath, in the side access and behind the front cover. The obvious oil ports in the castings and those 3 cool spring loaded oil caps on the top helped identify where to oil. Much better. Still seems to be getting stuck on a cam action near the front, that actuates the "dipping arm" (don't know the proper term). Little bit of lithium grease here, and on some rear cams, and vola, it is now operating like butter! The motor smoothly goes from very low speed to full speed, using the factory pedal (also same as in video.....those suckers get warm!). Had figure out that the bobbin clutch was not right, it wasn't disengaging the main action when loosened. Turns out it was just old oil and crud. Cleaned, oiled and now switching smoothly between bobbin wind mode and stitching mode. I don't know about any other sewing machines, but this little guy was very well made, the machining looks first rate. That was alot of fun, bring this back to life!
Need a bobbin tire (do you have blue?), some spare needles and to figure out how to thread the machine....and "I'm sewing!!!" ( see Bill Murray sailing scene on What About Bob?).
Cool video dude.
So I have an old atlas I got at an estate sale and I took the pedal apart because it was stuck on and the inside component is broken. Where does one find a replacement?
Definitely white bobbin tire. Looks great!
Can you tell what cord you purchase to replace the old plug in? Please? An thank you
Does positive and negative connection matter?
What are you spraying it with please?
Have you ever uses a 100 watt lightbulb in series with older machines?
This is very popular with the amplifier repair crowd. If there are any shorts in the wiring the energy will be dissipated by the light bulb.
Interesting, never heard of that.
@@SewingMachineRepairGuy it works good. Most techs use a ceramic bulb socket from home depot and wire it in series with a plug socket.
Techs that work on tube equipment swear buy it.
Thank you for what you do. I toss those foot pedals. They scare me.
So what do you replace them with?
What was it you hooked the motor to after putting new wire on?
@dennislett7896
A Variac (variable autotransformer- Variac is a brand name that’s become a collective noun). He’s doing so he can supply a variable AC voltage to test the motor, without having to account for the unknown factors in the resistive foot control.
If you blow on the solder joint, it will cool faster; and the joint will set. Arm jitter separation solved.
Excellent job! Subscribed! May I ask where you purchased the beige, white, and translucent bobbin winder tires? Thank you.
Good repair! Vapors from soldering do not contain lead because the iron does not reach a high enough temperature to vaporize the metal. However, there *is* lead danger from handling solder; do not eat or drink, touch your face, etc., until after washing your hands. Do not waste your money on lead-free solder because it's difficult to work with and does not make a good joint like leaded ("60/40") solder does. The vapors created by the soldering process are from the flux core, which is mostly a rosin. It's not poisonous but the smoke can exacerbate respiratory conditions such as asthma and bronchitis.
13:01 "Sometimes, in order to get it started melting, you gotta..." Please finish the thought. What is it we can do to get it started melting?
16:21 Where did you put the oil?
Scary, good to be mindful
I loved watching everything except the white bobbin tire. You should've gone with beige.😮
From what I hear, that motor sounds like a freight train. If the audio is accurate, the commutator needs reconditioning. The mica insulation is sitting proud of the copper. Good advice about being safe with electricity.
should have measured the ohms on the good pedal so you would know what resistor you needed to fix the original one
Will the bobbin tire fit a White 673?
I had a bobbin rubber that was complete mush..... How does that even happen
Can you help me please? I plugged a U.S. 140Volt Huskylock Serger, into a UK socket,and it tripped the fuse box. I bought a step down transformer,but nothing happens when I try to switch it on. 😢😓😓
Are you going to get more fuschia tires and pads in?
I have an atlas that I would like you to repair. How do I get in touch with you?
It's cool!
Do you like it compared to modern machines?
Old skool resistors!
Armature?
Your bad ass dude
👌👌👌
Yeh. You gotta get wire hot. Not the flux
Just put a black bobbin wheel black was always the color of a tire. Just do black
Clear tire.
Not bad for a newbie, but the armature should have been pulled and the commutator resurfaced and the mica between the segments cleaned. There was too much carbon which causes
what is refer to as “ creeping current “
which is a slow kill to the armature.
I use a old Emerson electric motor my Father rid up when I was a little boy with a large “drill chuck” to turn the rotor polishing commutator and each end of the rotor shaft that rotates in the motors brass bushing adding a little oil in the bushing also. I use a small triangular file
and commutator cleaning and polishing bar and the clean commutator off with alcohol . Rotor shaft polish with crocus cloth😎
I still use it today at age 71yrs
You have LOTS of potential
Most IMPORTANTLY my father taught me to offer my work up to God every day with the promise to do my best with His Help! God Bless You Brother 😎
Thanks for the advice!
Concur with criticism by Richard Givens. Also no strain relief on new motor wires? Just grommet?
Crocus paper to resurface the armature. What about new carbon brushes?
@@southothehighway no, crocus cloth for polishing the rotor shafts at each in to allow for smooth turning in the motor bushings , new brushes if necessary,
Commutator resurfaced with small triangular CLEAN file
we usually heat the brushes to “cook”
any excessive oil from them.
Commutator is polished with special commutator polishing bar or stick
Richard Givens, great advice on how to properly service the motor.
I read in an old Singer service manual, to use a pencil eraser to clean the carbon off the commutator. I have done this a few times and it typically leaves the commutator a shinny copper color, and turns the eraser black.
This could be a great series for a guy whose wife has 7 machines. Might I ask that you spend more time on repairs and less on color coordination of rubber parts. Your soldering was OK, but I would have put a bit of shrink sleeve over the soldered ends. I used to repair electrical tools decades ago - I just never got inside of any sewing machines.
A pink Atlas is a status machine and it’s owners love the mid century aesthetic. Wes is correct to color coordinate the parts, it’s how they were shipped. Also, the man served as an electrician aboard Navy subs. He knows his stuff.
What is wrong with you? There’s absolutely no need for that. Especially from someone who ‘never got inside any sewing machines’ 🙄
😮the man is giving us tons of info and knowledge along with some good blessings and your nit picking? If you never opened a machine don't judge. People enjoy him. I don't work on others machines just mine. And I loved him taking time for something as simple as a color. So 😜.
Earl.
(oil)
Beige!
Yikes
Beige
Beige lol
The motor cord end comes off easily and is not molded. This guy trys but is really inexperienced and lacking education.
Lol blowing on the solder.😂😂😂 it instantly hardens. No need for that.
Why the f are you running the motor like that? You way overdid it.
Beige
Beige