Sanding veneered MDF; how long before it goes wrong? [video # 346]
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2019
- In this video I attempt to show how I go about #sanding #veneered #MDF and explain why it’s no big deal as long as you keep moving - and keep an eye on the time. Enjoy!
N.B.This is not a definitive test, and results will vary depending on the sander/abrasive/veneer used; always run a test on a piece of scrap before starting on the workpiece. 👍
Tests we’re run with a fresh piece of Festool Granat P120 abrasive, and all sanders set at speed setting 4-5.
+++++++
My ‘social’ links in one place - bit.ly/10minute-links
Support me directly - bit.ly/donate_to_10minuteworkshop
Support me on Patreon - / 10minuteworkshop
Full list of ‘Stuff I use’ at Full list of ‘Stuff I use’ at www.10minuteworkshop.com
Connect with me on twitter @10minuteshop
Connect with me on Instagram - @10minuteworkshop
+++++++
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases made through these links.
Wherever possible links are to actual products used, but this is not always possible e.g. some products are not available in the US, so something similar has been linked to instead.
Amazon UK - www.amazon.co.uk/shop/petermi...
++++++++
Used/featured in this video:-
Festool Granat abrasive - amzn.to/2A3c1vW (US: amzn.to/2gPAAUz)
Festool Rotex 125 - amzn.to/2QJvZUx (US: amzn.to/2OHYP5N)
Festool ETS 125 - amzn.to/2RSAEDD (US: amzn.to/2JZy0t5)
Festool ETS 150/5 - amzn.to/2sapsq9 (US: amzn.to/2ssbZgq)
Festool Midi extractor - amzn.to/2tCIN3Q (US: amzn.to/2rKNIOx)
Osmo Polyx Oil - amzn.to/2Ot0NaW (US: amzn.to/2pdRjoS)
Other handy stuff:-
Festool TS55 Tracksaw - amzn.to/2pGvzDS (US: amzn.to/2oOgGhw)
Festool T18 drill/driver - amzn.to/2QAHpK1 (US: amzn.to/2RPuOCR)
Festool CXS - amzn.to/2syMO8Z (US: amzn.to/2r0TZ7U)
Festool PDC 18/4 - amzn.to/2s3J0eq (US: amzn.to/2tWUHEL)
Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2sTwQJE (US:amzn.to/2sThGo1)
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
Mirok square - etsy.me/2MC0RTZ
Bessey Duo Klamp - amzn.to/2tsSWQs (US:amzn.to/2sVaRBH)
Spax screws - amzn.to/2oYWydc (US: amzn.to/2oOjkDT)
Trend Air Stealth Facemask - amzn.to/2zah0P6
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
Mirock square - etsy.me/2MC0RTZ
Plastic packers - amzn.to/2vCDN27 (US:amzn.to/2vHk4fZ)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2sTwQJE (US:amzn.to/2sThGo1)
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM)
Braided hose sleeve - amzn.to/2puFkWd (US:amzn.to/2oqbQsi)
Polyvine PolyTen PVA - amzn.to/2HBxK66 (US: amzn.to/2rmHYL3)
+++++++++ 
Хобби
Wish I had watched this about 15 minutes ago.
Same
Haha same....
🤣🤣🤣me too
Me too
Lol! Ikr?
I’ve sanded through plenty of coffee table tops that looked like solid wood but weren’t! 😂
😂👍👍
tell me about those ikea LACK coffee tables 🤣
I have sanded through veneer and what I did to fix it was apply mod podge which quickly filled in the spaces and made the press board level then I applied the stain. Granted it was very dark stain and the top is a buffet that has a runner over it most of the time but I still love it and it looks great. I like things with a little character.
Those results are very interesting! Quite surprising too!
Extremely interesting. Not only about vernier, but also about different kinds of sanders and what they do. Guess I have to learn more. Thank you!
Thanks Frits! I have a ‘which sander, when’ video coming before too long 👍👍
This is an awesome video! Much more than the sum of its parts, thanks!
I sanded through a veneered surface once. But it was a special case.
On a pretty old door we wanted to redo (had wonderful hand-crafted glass in it). The door was painted white, so I had no idea what was below the paint. But on the first spots where I got through the paint, a veneer layer vanished pretty fast afterwards.
Now we still have the glass from those doors, but the woodwork has been replaced completely.
This is helpful because I'm working on a veneer piece now and am paranoid of messing it up. So I'm using a loose piece of sandpaper scuffing the sides first just to knock off the protective sealant so i can paint it. But I'm scared of doing the top of my veneer side table which comes next, using my plug in sander.
Thanks for your information!
Thank you for stating the grit of sand paper, for vaneer. Most videos I'm coming across, don't even state the grade. I'm new to this, so thanks
This was so helpful! I’m fixing to try and refinish a veneer table. I’m a new subscriber
Thanks, and welcome! 👍
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent information, thank you!
Thanks Peter. Great video.My son and I are going to refinish our vaneer top dining room table.
Thanks, and good luck! 👍👍
how did it go ? i want to sand and refinish two veneer end tables and i could use some encouragement.
Today I learnt why Festool has many types of sander: rotational travel. Been idly wondering thar for years. Maybe one day I'll now consider a 'finishing' sander. Every day's a school day. Thank you 😎
Pleasure! Always surprises me a little that some folk don’t realise how small the stroke is in some 5” sanders 🤷♂️👍
Thanks Peter, once again you've come along at just the right time. I've just finished a large dining table where the top is oak veneered MDF inset into a black Valchromat surround. Proceed with caution is the order of the day, I think!
Sounds nice! Never though of using Valchromat like that! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I can send you a photo
Higher grit and slower speed settings makes a 150/5 sander work very well for finish work/between coats
And that's the reason why I lately got my ETS 125: my RO 90 is a great tool, no doubt about it, but whenever I did finishing sanding, even if in "finishing mode", even at low speed, I had to be really careful each time because it eats through material so freaking fast.
I really love the "jack of all trades" idea behind the ROTEX line, but I personally think I will use my RO 90 just for aggressive sanding and polishing, while using my finishing sander for - well - ... finishing 🤷🏼♂️
Really nice video Peter, as always
Best!
Agreed! Love my RO90 but don’t use it much- jay very specific jobs. The ETS 125 is a lovely small finishing sander - wouldn’t want to be without mine! 👍👍And Thanks!
But on a serious note cheers Peter it also shows why you should have a couple of orbital sanders .
Saw a house renovation competition show this month and sure enough they went through the veneer
Oops! 😂👍👍
Drats been waiting for the ball of string follow up video "fork 'andles or" Os"🤣🤣🤣
Yes sanded through a veneered door, with a Mirka Delerios just looked at oppsy doddle, l suspect they were meant to be painted anyway, that's what they got🤭🤭.
Interesting video 😎👍👍👍
😂😂👍👍
Thanks for the video! I have a table that cost a bit and within a year the top layer of MDF Veneer wore down with minor use. You had mentioned that repainting after sanding is an option. I am concerned about the paint work being very noticeable on a table top and I am also concerned about what I would be painting it with especially since it is a dinner table. Would you suggest rolling paint on or spraying it? Any additional suggestions? Thank you!
Hi Peter. Should I hand sand a veneer nightstand top (14inchesL X 18 inchesW) or should I use a stripper? Would you recommend 120 grit to start? Thank You!
I have a dark dining table I would like to refinish to a barn style. I cannot tell if it has veneer. I am not sure if I can just sand the top or if I need to do the towel/iron scrape method.
This was an especially useful video. Thanks for creating it.
I want to enhance the grain of a quilted maple veneer by applying a dark stain, then sanding it back. That's scary with a veneer. Based on your test, 240 grit finishing sanding should be safe, as long as I get the stain application right.
Looks like Andy mac has possessed you I thought it was test Tuesday for a second lol
If it was test Tuesday I’d have to have it hooked up to an arduino 😂👍
I am working on a veneer buffet and on the front doors just did this. How do I fix it? I tried stain, wouldn't touch it..whats underneath that anyway.?
hi my mdf furniture with wood texture (not sure if veneer) doesnt heave even finish. a drwaer looks slightly darker. the furniture maker who made it low quality finish says he can grit/sand the dark piece to open the color. and apply varnish to match the rest. does it sound good? i am so confused and frustrated
I really stuffed up and belt sanded straight through the veneer on a drawer front... Not sure what to do now. Its very obvious and different to the others. Do I need to paint the lot if I am not able to refinish? I'm no wood worker so wouldn't have a clue about fixing the veneer.. really appreciate any help
I have certainly sanded through veneer when try to remove all the stain on a commercial wood door!!!!
I just went through a veneer with my orbital sander, thinking I was going to be very careful. But unfortunately I still went through 😔😖 listening to see what would be my next step. 😕
With sanding I always remember never to linger in one spot, keep it moving, shows what can happen!
Except you have to sometimes if there’s too much damage take it smooth?
@@natalieramsey4091 Depends what damage, if it's a scratch or a gouge better to fill it then sand.
Superior Being thank u! I’ve had a couple episodes of standing through Venere and I’m getting frustrated. Trying to put a nice stain on these tables.
Thanks for letting us know how hamfisted we can be and get away with it. Has to be said that if in doubt you should try on a test piece.
Yes - I do mention it in the video description 👍👍
Truth!
Great Video. I use a Mirka. With 80 grit HD net Ceramic disks. It can sand through glass. It's a finishing sander... career finisher ha. . 5mm orbit it's like sand blasting, I do think it's better than festool. When you need an oak porch sanding. This is the business.
Thanks! Which Mirka - the Deros / Ceros? Great sander, I just couldn’t get along with the flappy paddle, sadly. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop The Deros, its strips like nothing ive used. I also have the Deos, not great but comes in handy. The thing I like about Mirka is the net disks, it's great for dust collection, and the different net types for different application's
I’ve got oak top laminate flooring which is very scuffed and is very honey coloured. I want to sand it down, I’ll probably hire something 👍
Can be a bit of a daunting task when you first venture into the veneered woods.
Once you get used to it, you're generally home and hosed. 👌
That Rotex though, whew, munched right on through! 😨
Yeah - silly test but I wanted to put the others into perspective 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop
That it did mate. 👍
I wouldn't say it was a silly test though.
It shows a significant difference between the three.
Good lesson for those looking into upgrading or adding to their arsenal. 👌
Cheers Bill - that was the plan. 👍
Peter Millard how do you think the rotex would have performed without the rotex mode on?
Hi Peter. Where do you get your veneered MDF? Also (similar but different!), have you done a video comparing MDF, plywood (and I guess OSB and chipboard) for different things? I ask because I want to make some cabinets for the workshop, and MDF is a lot cheaper than ply, but most vids I've seen appear to use ply for the cabinet frames and MDF for the doors. Would be really interested to know your thoughts/experience on the pros and cons of the different materials. Cheers, Ian
Hi Ian. I buy my veneered boards from my local timber yard - ajferguson.co.uk; they stock the basics like oak and will order in anything special like Sapele - it’s usually next day, the day after sometimes. And yes, I have a video planned looking at relative sheet materials and their different uses, and one where I look specifically at MDF, as there’s so much confusion / bad information about it on RUclips. 👍👍
Hi, Peter!
Isn't the Rotex switchable between random orbits and forced so you can change how aggressiv the sander works? Just asking, because I need a new sander and don't know what to buy yet.
Regards,
Etna.
Hiya. Yes the Rotex is switchable between normal ROS and gear driven - I think I say that’s in ‘rotex’ mode or ‘aggressive’ mode, but it’s definitely switchable. You pay for it in terms of weight though 👍
I have the rotex and yes your right, it can be used in normal random orbital mode. I initially bought it for solid surface worktops and I my opinion it saved me many many hours to get the right finish. Of course if you have it in the geared mode its as aggressive as a belt sander but I think I'm right in saying that the automotive industry use it for polishing. It is a brilliant tool don't be put off.
Thank you! I think I'm going for a Combo. The Rotex for the rough stuff with a Bosch GEX 125-150 for finishing because of the little vibration they give to your hands. But I'm buying the Bosch after the Rotex to see if I really need it.
Ok Peter, I admit it. I have sanded through veneer. It was on an oak veneered panel on our staircase. It was a while ago but I do remember I was sanding by hand. Fortunately I saw it before it became noticeable.🙄
Ohhhh! 😕 Remember Mark - If you walk away from it it’s a landing 😂👍👍
Another interesting vid. In my line I often have do some kind of sanding on veneers. I rarely use powered sanders as I can’t guarantee the thickness on older pieces that may have already been sanded numerous times to within a fraction of going through and could vary in thickness in different spots. If you know the spec of a brand new piece you are usually ok but unfortunately I have yet to find a scientific way of checking how much veneer is left on an old piece. There is the help of experience of course and as you probably know older items tend to have a thicker veneer than most modern stuff. On a positive note though, if people didn’t sand through then I wouldn’t be asked to re-veneer things 😉😃
Thanks Dan! Yes, always best to be cautious, of course - especially so if it isn’t your stick of furniture! 👍👍
Suggestions for laying a layer or two of gel stain over a wood veneer bench I just bought? To sand or not to sand beforehand?
I'm curious about that regular striation pattern on that last piece - is that due to the sander motion or inherent in the veneer layer?
I think it’s in the veneer layer - you see it at the edges of the others, but they’re so much more aggressive it punches clean through. 👍
Nicely done Peter 👍. Top information and a valid and well executed comparative test 😁. I must confess to a "veneer related numpty" incident, a while ago.. I put a nicely finished oak board through my thicknesser... and MDF came out the other side... 🤪. Every day is a school day. Keep up the great vids 👍.
Oh dear... did u run it back through in reverse to put it back on ?? 🙄🤭
@@peterfitzpatrick7032 Of course 😂🤣. I spent 20 mins rewiring the motor to run backwards, then just poured the adhesive on the blades 👍 Job done 🤣😂🤣😂..... oh the shame of it al...Lol.
Classic! 😂👍👍
@@frankslittleworkshop 😎👍☘🍺🍺
hi peter, what are those clamps you use on your work bench?..and can u link me as to where to get them please.
Thanks. There’s a list of items used/featured in the video description; they’re Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM) 👍👍
Thanks for all the content peter it’s much appreciated
Quick question, what grade boards did you use for this job? What sort of price are they?
Thanks josh
Pleasure. I used a commercial grade A/B board, paid around £63 + vat but minus discount for it. 👍
👍 Yes Osmo is the best product in my opinion. Enjoy your weekend.
Agree! And you too! 👍👍
Working with panels that barely have essence of wood on them is a bit of a challenge at times, especially trimming edging. Maybe do a video on that ?
Thanks! I’ve done a little bit about it on a big job last year, but maybe time for a refresher, yes 👍👍
Peter I wonder what the rotes would be like when not on the feared drive and just normal ROS mode?
I’d expect it to be very similar to the ROS I used, though I’d have to check to see what the stroke is on the rotex. Might be worth a follow-on though 👍👍🤔
Peter Millard it’s 3.6mm on the 125 which is what I have. I have a Bosch green ROS which was my first “proper” sander but now I only use my Rotex so I’d be interested to see what it’s like in “fine” mode.
Not scientific but very informative. Smart to understand what to use on what.
I’m a retired journeyman electrician and want to take a stab at making a few cabinets. I understand the veneer on the wood but what does one do about the edging say when cutting doors or the face plate out of the same sheet? Thanks, Garry
You usually use an edgebanding - a thin veneered strip of the same material that’s glued onto the cut edge, then trimmed back flush with the face - or a solid lipping ie a strip of natural timber fixed to the edge that’s then planed back flush with the face. HTH P
HI Peter, I have George Nelson drop leaf table but it has several water stains from glasses and one sharpie stain. I would like to sand it and stain it, but I´m afraid I will ruin the veneer grain (straight grain). What do you recommend for sanding?
Hi. I’d take it very very carefully with a bit of light hand sanding first, I think, maybe using an old sanding pad from a random orbital sander to make a hand sanding pad - ruclips.net/video/jeAGbrowJS4/видео.html If the hand sanding doesn’t shift the marks, then consider some very light work with a small orbit sander. Good luck! !
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you Peter, very helpful. I will be making one of those handheld tools soon and give it a try.
I have a MDF dresser i need to refinish the top of, just cleaning took me down to the MDF through the layer. Does this exposure change how I should refinish or should I replace the top completely? No visible crumbling of the MDF in this spot by the way. Thanks!
My guess is that you’ll have to refinish the whole panel. Sorry. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop cool, way cheaper than replacing. thanks for the input, love your videos!
Hi Peter, what grit/grits paper do you normally use to sand veneered MDF?
Hiya. I’d normally start at P150/180 and work up from there. Maybe drop to P120 if I really need to, but would tread very carefully. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop so from P150 to P320? 🙏🏻
Depends on the finish. I might go to a P500 for a really silky smooth finish on a water-based lacquer, but 240/320 is usually fine for a hard wax oil. 👍
A tin of brush-on veneer & you'll be back in business Pete !! 🙄
Re. the Jay-cloth... does it not leave fibres behind ? I like to use those green scotchbrite pads... 😉
😎👍☘
😂😂 No, the harder j-cloths seem to work just fine. 👍👍
Peter Fitzpatrick Here in Sweden our supplier recommends the white scotch pad - if you want to really work in lots of the oil wax.
@@thomasfholland thanks for the tip Thomas 😎👍☘
Usually it happens when dust build up as you sand; and you can't see the veneer or grain disappearing.
Or when people see a black ish looking spot and think they can sand it out. When or if it starts to turn black ish;;; stop sanding. That's the mdf and glue coming through. Hope this helps.
BTW; now a days; veneer is thinner than yesterday years. 😡
Hi Peter. What orbit does a sander have to do to be classed as a fine finish one?
3mm or less, usually. 👍👍
I asked because had the old screwfix erbuer 125 orbit for years and was a cracking sander for money. Small and Light you could hold it in palm no probs without jumping up and down. Lost it(long story) bought new model. It's a beast only ment to have 2.5 orbit cant have it at top speed!
Back in school, early 80's, making a veneer backgammon coffee table, I was taught to never use any sandpaper lower than p240.
I am guessing these things are not covered anymore, such a shame
Well they are now, just on youtube that's all.
Ive never taken classes but I think its pretty obvious to start out with a high grit since the boards are already fairly smooth. I use 220 and its perfect for any decent plywood
I gone too much on a 50 year old heritage table with the sander , the table had specific design and now i dont know how to get it back so it wouldnt be so visible , any advice ?
No, I’m sorry - as I say in this video, once you’ve gone through a veneer the only thing you can realistically do is cover it up in some way, either with another veneer over the top, perhaps a stain (depends on the substrate) or paint. Sorry it isn’t better news.
Hey, what glue do you recommend for gluing wood veneer to mdf?
Only ever done it a couple of times, but I just used PVA and it worked fine. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks a bunch!
Do you have any idea if the ash veneer that's stained black on speaker cabinets is thick enough to sand down to the natural ash finish without sanding off the entire veneer? And yes I'm sure it is actually ash veneer and not a vinyl wrap veneer.
No real clue tbh, but I’d guess if it’s a commercial veneer then it’ll be about 0.6mm thick, so no, the stain will likely have penetrated quite deep into the veneer, and probably not evenly. Not something I’d want to attempt, but if I had a gun to my head, then I’d try a small patch on the underside first, see if it reveals any natural colour.
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you for the reply. I should probably experiment on the bottom of one speaker with something mild like lacquer thinner or going to the extreme with acetone. If lacquer thinner or acetone don't show much promise it would probably make more sense to keep my eyes out for the same speakers finished in cherry as I know the manufacturer made them in cherry as well. I was hoping for a nice light oak finish but apparently the people who make speakers thinks everyone likes black. I prefer any type of natural wood finish myself. I don't understand the idea of painting natural wood various colors or distressing the finish and painting it -- I'm sure it got its start by some furniture dealer painting over natural wood items that were all beat up and people just followed the leader.
Can I remove the veneer to paint the cabinet? Mine has water damage and I'd like to smooth it out. Is that even possible? or does it get fuzzy?
You can, but unless you know exactly what's underneath you might just be making things worse. If you can, try peeling back a small area first that's out of sight, as a test. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you!!
My take away tip is to use fine grit and used abrasive material.👍
Mine is to use a fine grit and get someone else to do it! 😂😂👍👍
I’m usually trying to remove veneered doors deep enough to remove all the original stain and not just the finish. I keep telling my contractor that I can’t guarantee I won’t go through the veneer. They now want me to refinish a whole set of cabinets that are all veneer and edge banded and I’m telling them I can’t do it. Paint them or replace them. I suppose I could faux stain them. Just tell me if I’m wrong In not wanting to sand all the stain off and refinish them. Maybe I could try but it’s not just doors it’s inside boxes with inside corners and right angles to get close to the edges. I hate thinking about it and I love to refinish wood. If it was all solid wood it would still be challenging. Veneer, I don’t think I’ll try. Thanks
I wouldn't touch it personally! 👍
What would you do if you sanded through the veneer (because I'm that guy no one knows)?
Covering it up somehow are the only real options - either veneer over, or paint it. 🤷♂️👍
Since the only sanding operation you'd want to do on veneered MDF is finishing, you can get away with a large disc and fine grit, so it would be difficult to sand right through even if you tried.
Which is what I say in the video - and yet when you read through the comments a number of people have done it - and many more are concerned about doing it. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I suppose my statement isn't entirely true, you can indeed sand too much with the above if you tilt the machine/sand with a decreased bearing area, so you can indeed if you try!
Unfortunately I have sanded through Veneered MDF .... that’s why I had to learn how to reveneer really fast. I can laugh about it now but at the time it was a disaster. I did get the customer fixed up in the end.
This is turning into a confessional! I’m sure it’s horrific when I happens, but glad you sorted it out OK in the end! 👍
I use the rotex for everything with no problems just turn speed down and keep it moving
Yes. It was included in this test in Rotex mode to show how much damage an aggressive sander will do, and how quickly, if held in one spot. As I say in the video, keep the sander moving and all will be well 👍👍
I also have the Rotex 150 but I'm not sure what's the best setup to sand veneered mdf board (0,6mm). Do I use random orbit or gear driven mode ? Please help :)
By and large I would not sand most species, other than between coats. The real danger is flushing solid edging....talk about "squeaky bum time"!
Well, now we know it happens...how to we fix it??
Just wish he would show how to repair over sanded veneered top.. spot..
Have coffee table with water Mark's on told o could sand it have but in one corner looks like it gone through to MDF board.
Are u Jeramy Wades brother 😂
You should have tried a belt sander. It would have blasted through instantly 😂
😂👍👍
I used a flappy sanding disc on my angle grinder to remove (on purpose) the white melamine coating from a particle board.
It worked like a charm. In no time it was a White Christmas in my shop.
Ahhhh Peter what have you done ,ive got a grinder with a grinding wheel on it ,if you really want to texturize that sheet ...lol,i think you just taught everyone the importance of good ole hand sanding ,thats where you say"you ve come this far don't quit now "thats not the words i use ,i use french words that starts with an f and finish with a t ,i know some guys use a wipe on and start sanding it well its wet to fill it any perfections ,have you ever done that with an oil based finish ,then seal it all with a clear coat so it doesnt smell
Haha Syd; No, I’ve never wet sanded timber - sounds messy, lol! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop not with water Peter, 3 parts paint thinners 2 parts oil base poly ,1 part boiled linseed oil ,mix it well , wipe it on and wet sand it with a scouring pad to fill in the imperfections,then wipe it off
i know it's an old video, but why the stripes ??
As the veneer gives way to the substrate? No idea! 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop yes it leaves vertical stripes in the veneer
If I had to guess I’d say it’s how the veneer has been glued into the backer, but I don’t know I’m afraid.
Also check out the next video : How to Get Sawdust Out of Your Phone.
It's not about 6" vs 5" sander, it's about 5mm stroke vs 2mm !
actually a 6" 2mm stroke "finishing" sander would be even beter in this case as the abrasion is spread on a wider surface so you have less chance to oversand one area. Moreover it's easyer to balance the sander flat, tilting the sander would be the worst thing to do in this situation. Larger sander = more flat. That's especially true if you use a chip vac as they tend to come with very heavy hoses that pulls on one side of the sander (wonder why they don't design sanders with the dust port in the midle so the weight is balanced)
Have you actually watched the video? 'Cos you've just written exactly what I say in it 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop Yes i did watch it, and yes you do say it, but then in your conclusion you repeat few times that "the 6" is not suitable" so that is a bit misleading that's why i commented on this.
Hi! I just sanded through veneer. :(
😕
👍👍👍😜🇨🇭
donno how i found this video but yeet.
the veneer is all of 0.3mm thick ? ah no, 0.6mm... this is ridiculous 🤣
Damn, Austin Powers got old!
Haha! It beats being compared to Jeremy Corbin, lol! 😂😂👍👍
Definitely not interesting I can think of many things in life more interesting. Informative and useful yes I will credit you with that. I won't be re-telling this story at the pub tonight though :-)