How to Sand Like a Pro - My Favorite Sanding Tip
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
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In this woodworking tip and trick video I show you how I get perfectly flat sanding results every time. This technique applies to all types of random orbital, belt, hand sanding and jitterbug sanders. Let me know what you like to see us build next. Thanks for watching! Please like, comment and subscribe. Cheers!
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Jonathan Katz-Moses These go from 80 to 120 to 240. I currently do 60-120-220. Debating whether I should also be adding 150 or 180. Who has time for all those steps? :)
Jonathan Katz-Moses Can I ask what apron you are wearing? Looks very efficient.
@@peperotla6937 it is! Check out my "woodworking EDC" video. Its linked there
@@automaticprojects a youtuber.. lol.. it really depends what you're going for and as he said, you'll spend a lot of time getting the marks out if you skip too much grit. Personally, here, I'd go 60 to a scraper and call it a day
Lmfddaaaoo dude I literally thought the same thing ahhahahahahhahhaha
Please keep doing these basic, basic tips, please. I learn something each time.
In addition to using a pencil to highlight the high and low spots, the pattern in which you sand helps also. Try sanding in 4 directions in this order- 1x perpendicular to the grain, 2x diagonally across the grain (once each direction) and lastly 1x with the grain. This assures the entire part has been sanded along with making it flat (old school sanding trick) from a professional cabinet maker.
Good advice
Are you meant to go both diagonal directions? I'm trying it out on a project am not noticing any change 😕
@@Roboboy17 yup, both directions.
I feel like this would make zero difference.
I like the way you think. I use the old horizontal perpendicular..... and horizontal approach myself
I was taught many many many years ago to use light coats of spray paint instead of the pencil scribbles.
Never even considered that something else would work instead of paint, especially for something that is close to really flat in the first place. This technique will be a nice addition for the future. Thanks!
I've seen the spray paint method used especially in the body shop as a "guide coat" for the final pass sanding on bondo and primer. I vaguely remember using it a few times on a few fiberglass projects.
I've been struggling to find a solution to my uneven sanding, and you helped me identify where I was going wrong with the pencil trick. Super duper helpful, thanks so much!
🙏🏽Thank you. This tip was a incredibly useful to me as a beginner.
Me as well, great stuff thank you
You changed my life!,,, thank uuuuu
I purchased a used one as the piece is a bit pricey, but the machine ruclips.net/user/postUgkxG6fbm3cHBd7CNTjk5D-dwYe9c9tCB9ZN has surpassed my expectations. We sand small parts by hand often, sized around 1"x1/2," and specifically look for a piece that's designed to be vertical. The motor has plenty of torque and great speed settings. The only inconvenience I had is that the disk measures 5" where we trim 6" stick-and-sand disks down easily by mounting it then cutting with a box cutter.
That is a great tip! I was sanding the wrong way! Thanks for showing us this trick
So basic but so good. I've seen this before but the measurement is what blew me away! Thanks for the pointers.
Yeah I always knew but I've never measured before. Blew me away too
I had never done this but as soon as I saw the pencil sitting there I thought, oh I bet he’s going to scribble on the board so you sand evenly.
It’s amazing how such simple tricks of the trade can improve your skills. Wish I had learned this earlier. Great tip!
I’m stupid. Thank you for this. Will make life and sanding so much easier.
Such a basic yet important tip. Thanks for sharing!👍
I'm a metal fab / paint guy but i really enjoy your chanel. I'll never be a proper wood worker but I enjoy the overlap. Cheers and thank you!
I've always resisted using pencil marks like that, I guess because I thought it was superfluous. I relied in touch and figured the reults across the piece would equalize due to the random nature of our sanding movements. BUT, Can the past I did almost exclusively case work-- Using already flat plywood panels!
Now that I've recently progressed to milling my own lumber, this consideration of flatness is quite important!
Thanks so much for highlighting the, well, "point" of the pencil!
I use the pencil trick all the time and love it, but what I love even more is your color grade. Real nice, Clark.
Marc is a beast at color grading!
That pencil trick is spot on! Thank you!
took me a while to realise that too. now I do that on every project
This video is great. Especially for people like myself that can be a little impatient with sanding.
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Thanks for sharing the tip Jonathan.
In the shop we use white chalk sticks as our guide coat. We drag them on their side to cover a large area quickly.
Especially good on really hard woods like maple that seem like it's been sanded enough, yet show problem areas in the finishing room when staining.
Cheers
OMG!!! THANK YOU!!!! You have saved my projects my man!!!
So smart. Thanks for sharing. Old dog like me can always learn new tricks. Thank you!
My pleasure Alan!
I love the pencil trick!
I recently started using compressed graphite sticks instead of actual pencils ($10 on Amazon for about 200 pencils worth).
Saves a TON of time just "wiping" it on instead of having to constantlyscribble and sharpen.
Funny you mention time saved. I often spend more time scribbling on my project than the actual sanding. Have been thinking how to speed up the penciling.
Awesome tip. Got a new follower because of it!
Holy Shit! Why didn't I watch this before I started my project? Genius!
What a nice workshop space. You are so lucky.
I had a high school shop teacher show me something like this. You explained it better. :)
I love your videos. I realize that means nothing but seriously, great info and you deliver it in an informative yet fun way. Well done.
Truly appreciate it
Thanks for the very useful information. I am just getting to the point in my woodworking where this is precisely the info I needed about sanding.
I would never have thought of this, awesome! The simple tricks are the best! :]
Good Tip Jonathan. I have one in return. Try to grip the orbital sander at the base instead of at the top. Holding it at the top, it's much harder not to tip it. Also, your shoulder is super high when you sand holding it at the top, whereas it can be relaxed when you hold it at the base.
Great advice!
Awesome tip! Thank you!
I have seen other videos where they draw on it like that. I had some theories about why they did. I appreciate the explanation. So helpful! I was thinking along this line of thought, but it’s nice to have a better understanding. Thank you
Great quick simple trick all levels to remember. Keep up the great work!
We always do a light dusting of spray paint yellow or black. Good way to check your sander is let it sit on a flat board if it isn’t smooth while on , bounces around means it’s been dropped time for a new one
So simple so helpful wish I'd have known years ago
How did I not know this before? Thanks for the great tip!
Great tips
Thanks for the tip. I really hope your subscribe count goes way up. You are awesome and full of advise.
Nice tip, especially for us newbies! Thanks!
This was the most useful video I've watched in months. Thank you so much.
Great tip!! I will be taking this into my next project for sure!!! Thank you
Awesome tip! Nobody ever told me this. This is huge! Thank you!!!
That was very educational Katz😊
More of these tips and tricks videos please!!
Thanks for this tip👍 I have a big 100 gallon acrylic fish tank with deep scratches. I will try using a fine or small tip sharpie. It should work the same.
wow, thanks. I've been using the pencil trick since i saw woodpecker doing it, but you helped me understand my mistake.
thank for this tip
Another awesome video!
Trick of the trade great stuff.
Great tip Jonathan.
Great tip Jonathan thanks
Excellent tip!
Such great advise. Makes sense but i hadn't heard it before.
Thanks
I also like using the rubber drawer insert you have to keep the work piece in place without clamps, vices, or bench dogs!!!
I never really thought about skipping grits. I have 80, 220 and 400. I have so much to learn about wood working.
Yea 220 would take forever to get the swirl marks out of the wood after 80. Check out the sandpaper I linked in the pinned comment. It's only 10 bucks for a 70 pack
It's like guidecoat for wood, nice!
Huh. I always thought woodworkers just did that to make sure they didn't miss any spots. I didn't realize it was a flatness thing. Good to know! I'll start doing it, too. 'Course, most of my woodworking's been on cheap plywood so far, so I've always just been happy to not burn through the veneer, lol
As an apprentice I made a chessboard and got a completely flat surface using a belt sander. It's all about technique. Cross grain, diagonal one way, diagonal the other way then the last pass with the grain, repeat. It's all about being methodical, not helter skelter
Thanks Moses, Great tip!! 👍👍👍😎🇨🇱
Make sure you use a soft pencil for this. A hard pencil will likely produce deeper marks than your sander will take away, especially on soft woods such as pine. A soft pencil will only leave graphite on top of the wood instead of scratch a line into it.
I mention that in the video. Great advice
@@katzmosestools Indeed, I was only trying to add some additional information on that point. I've tried soft strokes with a hard pencil but you'll likely still end up with scratches. So I thought I'd save other people some sanding trouble.
Super helpful! Thank you.
Great tip. I just had to tell a story about my best friend (we lost him in a tragic accident recently, so sad), anyway, he had about 10 sanders sitting on a shelf above his work bench. Each with an increasingly finer grit of sandpaper. He said why bother changing paper, just grab the next sander and keep moving. Plus you don’t jump grits. He also had about a dozen routers with different bits. So many stories to tell of my great Friend! Most most people would not believe. Remember, you have all the time in the world, until you don’t. God Bless DBG!
Great story
Good Tip
YEP , , , Just shows, every day’s a school day - how simple was that?
Great job thanks
Thanks John!
thank you Katz . good info for me
Good reminder to not skip grits. With softer wood with more delicate grain the pencil can be a bit aggressive so chalk is a great alternative (white chalk, avoid colored. I made the mistake one time of borrowing my kids sidewalk chalk and the dyes caused me grief)
Yeah it does not save you time to switch it just means the next grit takes longer. I find chalk white or otherwise stains my wood or at least gets into the grain and is tough to remove.
It's worth note here, that you can pick up one of my favorite little utensils... an architect's pencil (engineer's or draftsman's pencil is the same thing) at most office supply shops (like Staples or Office Max).
It's a bit pricey for just a pencil, and the $25 kit has some interesting templates, but seems wasteful if you're not going into drafting...
BUT...
The "lead" in those is THICK, like almost 2mm, which sounds even worse than an ordinary "school #2". It also comes in a variety of hardnesses... The ordinary stuff in the pencil (HB, I think?) is actually relatively hard, so the marks you leave are fairly light, unless of course, you go all 400 pound gorilla on the thing.
There's more... I love this thing as a rough layout tool, too...
One press of the button, and you can use a thumb to set exactly how "long" you extend the lead... press and shove the lead back into the "barrel"... so it's relatively convenient.
AND have you ever dropped a mechanical pencil (or the school #2, for that matter)??? Even just fumble them on the table, and you can't get away "unscathed".
{as a general rule, I don't layout with anything less than .9mm, personally... like ANY thing}
BUT you can drop this one. With only one piece of lead at a time, this little baby can hit the concrete floor from your shoulder-height and the only loss is the tip... kind of inconvenient when you just got through sanding it to a point... but not nearly as troublesome as a .7mm where you haven't got a single piece (out of more than a dozen in the pencil) longer than a quarter or half-inch...
The older school "bad ass" variety is a little more expensive, but comes with metal about half-way up the barrel, so it's even more durable than the "student" version... AND sometimes you have to special order the leads, which you can probably do online all over the place... I haven't really looked... (lolz) I have about a lifetime supply since a nearby draftsman's shop liquidated (going digital all the way)...
BUT it's nice. I can swap to a softer, like #2 or even #1... OR harder #4, #5, #6? to let off less and less graphite for the marks... preserve the pencil a bit longer.
AND should you need finer lines? Slash some sand--paper into about three-inch squares... ish... Staple or wire them together in a stack, like a notepad. Just stick that in a pocket (handy) so you can briskly brush up the point on your draftsman's pencil tip... a few strokes over some 120 is sufficient to create a fine edge not dissimilar from a knife-edge if that's your thing... and you can swivel it with a bit of care as you drag it over the grit to refine a VERY sharp point. It wears relatively predictably, also dependent on your choice of hardness... so it tracks to straight-edges well in those uses.
AND for the record... yes. I love carpenter's pencils. Any time I have an aged metal instrument that needs help so I can read the marks, writing, or manufacturing symbols on it... I carve to expose about an inch of the lead in the carpenter's pencil, and use that to "shine" the metallic instrument... then wipe on a rag (or my thumb can scrub when I'm particularly prone to lazy enthusiasm... and reveal the marks, diminish rust (if not entirely get rid of the stuff), and even prevent further corrosion for a fair length of time.
You CAN chop a carpenter's pencil into shorter sections, expose each end of a single segment, and attach alligator clips with wires to a stout battery (lead-acid, automotive, motorcycle, or lawn tractor typically) and turn the graphite into a hell of a bright heating element. That gets HOT HOT HOT!!! and it doesn't waste time about it... so be F***ing careful!!! ;o)
I’m actually really shocked at how much material has been removed. Great tip, thanks.
I was too honestly
This is great. Thanks.
Great technique, I use it as well.
thank you for this great tip!!
Thanks
Hopefully you still look at comments from 3 year old videos. How about a video on sanding things that aren't flat? I have a hard time with anything that has molding. I just can't seem to get clean results when refinishing the trim inside door panels for example. Or the inside corners will take more stain because I've torn the grain. I can't seem to get it right, no matter how hard I try.
Another great video, thanks for the content... I just got a grizzly g0634z, would love to see you do a jointer tune up video in the near future!
Very interest5ing.
I feel like if i was a pro i would get someone else to do it ! haha, back to the shop ::coughs out a bunch of dust::
also great video! i just got and used your dovetail jig and it's amazing. thanks!!!
Hahaha I really appreciate it bud
Interesting. I never thought much about how much material got removed. It would be interesting also to see how much each grit removed.
I guessing less and less as you go higher 😉
Oh yeah, figured that. Like the 80 grit maybe took off .010" and the 220 maybe .002" Now you have me wondering about that. Gotta try that sometime.
@@DonsWoodies make sure to share if you do
You have the best tips. : ) Great video making too. Cheers. :)
Awesome thank you so much!
Will this take out wobble instead of just low spots in the center?
Dude... you sound just like Jimmy Kimmel...
Frank Macias - I thought the same thing.
He sounds like Jimmy Kimmel mixed with Patton Oswalt.
Another observation: Tie his hands & he'd be speechless!
Except this guy has male genitals
@@jacobstanton4619 Nice.
It's like using a guide coat to sand body work.
I just finished,making my girl a hope chest for her wedding. I was so disappointed when I was done garnishing and seen a bad low spot on side of the chest. I mean my heart actually sank! I worked so hard to make it perfect lol. Wish I had seen this tip last week!
The good thing is that she will never see it. She will only see the beautiful gift that you spent hours making for her. Only we see the mistakes we make. Watch the video I released today about fixing woodworking mistakes. I talk about it in the beginning.
@@katzmosestools Thank you very much I will watch it now
Great tip for getting flat boards without a planer or even a hand plane.
Do you spray the wood with water at all to raise the grain?
Wow, I used this very technique today working it out myself. Except, I noticed my chopping board was uneven so I pencilled the areas that just needed adjusting. Looks like I am already on the right track. Still have a lot to learn!
Thank you for a random guy living in Japan!
Done this and sharpened a bone fossil set before,.
I use that tip when I sand glass. Except I use a sharpie.
Great video. Just curious what your thoughts are on grain direction when sanding. Typically I have sanded in the direction of the grain and havent had many issues other than a few swirl marks here and there. Recently I have noticed that some individuals sand across grain and perpendicular to the grain before doing a pass in the direction of the grain. I have tried doing some research but there isn't a ton of info on this. From what I understand sanding across the grain will remove material faster???
Subscribing to your channel! Keep up the good content
Welcome my friend!
OOOOH... Did you see the Wm Walker video about his nifty new sander?
Thanks. Always learn a lot...cheers...rr Normandy
Would've been nice to see this yesterday. Ruined a whole frame. It was my first time sanding and I made huge 0.25" valleys trying to get the glue off. 😢 Live and learn, I guess.
I've heard some people say that you should move the sander very slowly. I notice that you move it fairly quickly. Any thoughts about proper sander movement speed?
Hullo young man. Now, that is a clever trick and I think you could have shown it sooner as on occasion I have left my timber with enough waves that could had sunk the Poseidon. now then Mr Moses, although your content in your videos keep your Subs interested the view behind is not good. You should take 5 minutes and give the place a wee tidy up. My love to your family.
Can your provide parts list and sources for the fittings you are using to connect collector hose to the Makita sander?
Theres a product know in the body shop busines called guide coat. Lastss forever
Is there a chance to lessen the noise of a random sander?