Thank you for the video! Looking forward to getting the 8N to start without starter fluid. haha I'll clean the carb and points like you showed. Upgrading to 12 volts today with a new wiring harness. :)
I am installing a rebuilt engine in my ford 2000 4 cyl gas. When I install the old distributer I will check the spark advance just as you have shown. Thanks for the info.
Greetings, I have a 8n tractor I think according to its serial # its a 1948. It has a distributor I had to replace as the pin on the timing gear had sheared off. Since it had sheared and had turned over I had no idea where TDC was. ( Flywheel was impossible to read ) So I used the ole #1 piston on compression tactic. I also replaced everything in the electrical ignition system; that is a 12 volt by the way. I have worked on engines and cars since I was old enough to hold a wrench. My father was the foreman at the I.H. tractor repair shop I am now 60. My first tractor was a cub cadet hand crank start tractor.This engine is really simple the reason I chose to buy it and of course being financially challenged helped that decision along. Now my problem. I'm not really up to snuff on the conversion and the ballast resistor I had to install between the switch and the positive side of the coil. I replaced this also. Now the problem. When I went to check spark I would get a few blue sparks from the coil then nothing. I checked for power drop in the system. I found that when the points were open the voltage would be 12.3 when the points are closed 2.3. I have asked around even to the company that supplied me with the resistor and they didn't even know how or why it was needed. I have found that out only through a tireless investigation of the part. Some say it is only needed when the tractor is running and it is in charge mode. Some suggest to use a bypass when starting the tractor. Then use the regular system when the tractor is running. I tried bypassing the resistor again I got a blue strong spark for a few times again the spark failed after that. I'm flummoxed! How can such an engine be this persnickety? Can you help me? I would be eternally grateful if you could
Does your tractor have the front distributor behind the fan belt or the side mount distributor with an external coil?If it has the external coil then just replace it with a coil that does not require the external resistor and run straight 12 volts to it. The points grounds the coil to collapse the field and discharge the spark. Pertronix should make an electronic module to go in your distributor to replace the points. It cost about $100 an is easy to install That is what I would do and you will never have to worry about points again. Let me know which distributor you have and I will help you figure it out.
Sorry I thought I'd pretty much told you all I know. It's a side distributor at a 45* angle at the right driver side front side of the engine. I wrote the question about 5 times was having issues with my computer, and it kept erasing what I wrote. Thanks for any help you can offer.
Thank you for your input. Since the $100.00 fix is out of budget right now, I talked with an antique tractor restorer on the the phone. He suggested to look at and replace the bushings in the distributor. Says its a common ailment of the 8n's. Will try both I need my tractor! Thank you again for getting back to me so quickly.
My tractor is a John Deere 1010 with a delco mechanical advance distributor. I have timed it over and over. It will run good for a while and then miss out. Then run good. I have rebuilt the carb, new plugs, points, condenser, etc.... now I have taken the distributor out because it just doesn't keep time. I found a clip on top. Removed it and then the top came out with two pins sticking down. Under it was a bushing, 2 springs laying on top of 2 weights. One spring was totally different thickness than the other and broken. The weights were really gritty. After cleaning everything up it feels like I need a new bushing also. The shaft has a little play. My question is, where can I buy parts for this and is there a number on the distributor somewhere that will help me make sure I get the proper parts?
Am Havin fits with a 62 farmall cub, that was converted to 12 volts / I finally got a lil erratic spark to the no1 plug, it would take a long time to list what has been tried, How could I reach reach you over the phone ?
Great video, thanks and God Bless
Thank you for the video! Looking forward to getting the 8N to start without starter fluid. haha I'll clean the carb and points like you showed. Upgrading to 12 volts today with a new wiring harness. :)
I am installing a rebuilt engine in my ford 2000 4 cyl gas. When I install the old distributer I will check the spark advance just as you have shown. Thanks for the info.
Greetings, I have a 8n tractor I think according to its serial # its a 1948. It has a distributor I had to replace as the pin on the timing gear had sheared off. Since it had sheared and had turned over I had no idea where TDC was. ( Flywheel was impossible to read ) So I used the ole #1 piston on compression tactic. I also replaced everything in the electrical ignition system; that is a 12 volt by the way. I have worked on engines and cars since I was old enough to hold a wrench. My father was the foreman at the I.H. tractor repair shop I am now 60. My first tractor was a cub cadet hand crank start tractor.This engine is really simple the reason I chose to buy it and of course being financially challenged helped that decision along. Now my problem. I'm not really up to snuff on the conversion and the ballast resistor I had to install between the switch and the positive side of the coil. I replaced this also. Now the problem. When I went to check spark I would get a few blue sparks from the coil then nothing. I checked for power drop in the system. I found that when the points were open the voltage would be 12.3 when the points are closed 2.3. I have asked around even to the company that supplied me with the resistor and they didn't even know how or why it was needed. I have found that out only through a tireless investigation of the part. Some say it is only needed when the tractor is running and it is in charge mode. Some suggest to use a bypass when starting the tractor. Then use the regular system when the tractor is running. I tried bypassing the resistor again I got a blue strong spark for a few times again the spark failed after that. I'm flummoxed! How can such an engine be this persnickety? Can you help me? I would be eternally grateful if you could
Does your tractor have the front distributor behind the fan belt or the side mount distributor with an external coil?If it has the external coil then just replace it with a coil that does not require the external resistor and run straight 12 volts to it. The points grounds the coil to collapse the field and discharge the spark. Pertronix should make an electronic module to go in your distributor to replace the points. It cost about $100 an is easy to install That is what I would do and you will never have to worry about points again. Let me know which distributor you have and I will help you figure it out.
Sorry I thought I'd pretty much told you all I know. It's a side distributor at a 45* angle at the right driver side front side of the engine. I wrote the question about 5 times was having issues with my computer, and it kept erasing what I wrote. Thanks for any help you can offer.
Thank you for your input. Since the $100.00 fix is out of budget right now, I talked with an antique tractor restorer on the the phone. He suggested to look at and replace the bushings in the distributor. Says its a common ailment of the 8n's. Will try both I need my tractor! Thank you again for getting back to me so quickly.
My tractor is a John Deere 1010 with a delco mechanical advance distributor. I have timed it over and over. It will run good for a while and then miss out. Then run good. I have rebuilt the carb, new plugs, points, condenser, etc.... now I have taken the distributor out because it just doesn't keep time. I found a clip on top. Removed it and then the top came out with two pins sticking down. Under it was a bushing, 2 springs laying on top of 2 weights. One spring was totally different thickness than the other and broken. The weights were really gritty. After cleaning everything up it feels like I need a new bushing also. The shaft has a little play. My question is, where can I buy parts for this and is there a number on the distributor somewhere that will help me make sure I get the proper parts?
Thank you so much
Am Havin fits with a 62 farmall cub, that was converted to 12
volts / I finally got a lil erratic spark to the no1 plug, it would take a long time to list what has been tried, How could I reach reach you over the phone ?
how are you suppose to time the distributor to the engine with no timing tape?
There are timing marks on the flywheel, and a peep hole to see them.