You are sort of on the right track with your diagnosis but try taking it apart to see what the propblem really is. There is a rubber dust cover but it certainly isn't the reason it jams - there is a hefty spring INSIDE returning lever as well as the 'peg spring' on the outside. There is no way a bit of rubber would cause that much friction. Like all seals they are great when new but when worn or split they do a great job of keeping the water IN. The end of the shaft then gets very rusty and the rotation of the lever cork-screws the rusty shaft into a soft bronze bush, And it jams. Take off the lever (you may have to slacken the handbrake cable). Prise out the seal or cut it away with a scalpel and carefully scrape the rust from the shaft with a blade. polish it up a bit with scotchbrite. Now slap it with thick grease. I made a new seal to keep the grease in with a short stump of thick wall silicone tubing. Not a common thing to have kicking around but it worked. My guess is thaat the grease will stay put without a seal anyway. Just keep an eye on it. This is a great fix for the only weak point of an otherwise genius mechanism. Will Caro
Thanks for this as I now know which part to aim for. I've suffered the problem for a few weeks now with the right rear wheel getting seized after the parking brake being applied. Had to knock the offending arm with the wheel brace to get going so figured something was jamming it. You mentioned getting a replacement which I assume is the arm assembly? Can you suggest somewhere to purchase this arm (part number?) and the spring you mentioned? Cheers Tim
Tak jak mówisz w filmie brakuje tutaj sprężyny "rozciągającej" linkę hamulca (do tego modelu pasuje sprężyna linki hamulca ręcznego TRW), chociaż z czasem i tak to nie pomaga gdy oba ramiona są bardzo zanieczyszczone. - There's lack of handbreak cable spring - type TRW
When you remove these calipers slacken off the hand brake is chocking the front wheels against house bricks enough to keep the car from rolling ? I was thinking of doing the wheel bearing as well. I suppose the bearing needs losening with the tyres on and cap off also hqnd brake on
Hi Peter, If you mean the nut on the brake caliper arm (the one for the handbrake), then I have removed it on the old caliper and this has not changed anything. I also did not gain any good access by doing so. I was gentle though, perhaps if I pulled the arm stronger I would see something moving. Hope it helps a bit. Cheers
Then you either need to remove the caliper from the car and do full service on it (there are repair kits with rubber seals for this element) or buy new unfortunately...
I'm not sure if it's a Handbrake jam, but while driving, at some point (random time), my 307 SW would indicate the Handbrake light as being engaged, and I get the red STOP sign flashing. Then, I have to pull over, stop the engine completely, cut the contact, and then start the car again. After this, the car would work normally again. What I have noticed, is that when this happens, changing gears feels weird and there is a strange vibration each time I shift gear. The strange thing is: when I stop the car and start again, the problem disappear and I can drive normally. Do you think it's the same problem that you had?
Hi Elie, This is not the same thing as explained it this video. When the warning sign "STOP" is blinking on the dashboard it usually is something critical. I had it only once and in my case the battery was very old and the car did not get enough power to run the CPU and therefore some information was lost on the way. When I have changed the battery the problems stopped. Have you checked with PP2000 whether you have any error code available? With such sign on the dashboard you should have an error code saved on the CPU. Cheers
Hi Gary, good question! In the first run I took the nut off but I still could not remove the arm and I've put quite some force into trying. It might be simply rust but it also might be that you need to remove more than just 13 mm nut. Note that the nut is rotating together with the arm when tightened. In general the whole part was in bad condition, corroded and jamming. I have seen "maintenance kits" including washers that you mention and more. That could be a good solution in case the part looks OK but then I would recommend to remove the whole assembly and disconnect the hydraulic cable (braking fluid) to do full service on it. It's very limited space to work from under the car. Cheers!
You are sort of on the right track with your diagnosis but try taking it apart to see what the propblem really is. There is a rubber dust cover but it certainly isn't the reason it jams - there is a hefty spring INSIDE returning lever as well as the 'peg spring' on the outside. There is no way a bit of rubber would cause that much friction. Like all seals they are great when new but when worn or split they do a great job of keeping the water IN. The end of the shaft then gets very rusty and the rotation of the lever cork-screws the rusty shaft into a soft bronze bush, And it jams. Take off the lever (you may have to slacken the handbrake cable). Prise out the seal or cut it away with a scalpel and carefully scrape the rust from the shaft with a blade. polish it up a bit with scotchbrite. Now slap it with thick grease. I made a new seal to keep the grease in with a short stump of thick wall silicone tubing. Not a common thing to have kicking around but it worked. My guess is thaat the grease will stay put without a seal anyway. Just keep an eye on it. This is a great fix for the only weak point of an otherwise genius mechanism. Will Caro
Авто/Мото
You are sort of on the right track with your diagnosis but try taking it apart to see what the propblem really is.
There is a rubber dust cover but it certainly isn't the reason it jams - there is a hefty spring INSIDE returning lever as well as the 'peg spring' on the outside. There is no way a bit of rubber would cause that much friction.
Like all seals they are great when new but when worn or split they do a great job of keeping the water IN. The end of the shaft then gets very rusty and the rotation of the lever cork-screws the rusty shaft into a soft bronze bush, And it jams.
Take off the lever (you may have to slacken the handbrake cable). Prise out the seal or cut it away with a scalpel and carefully scrape the rust from the shaft with a blade. polish it up a bit with scotchbrite. Now slap it with thick grease.
I made a new seal to keep the grease in with a short stump of thick wall silicone tubing. Not a common thing to have kicking around but it worked. My guess is thaat the grease will stay put without a seal anyway. Just keep an eye on it. This is a great fix for the only weak point of an otherwise genius mechanism. Will Caro
Thanks for this as I now know which part to aim for. I've suffered the problem for a few weeks now with the right rear wheel getting seized after the parking brake being applied. Had to knock the offending arm with the wheel brace to get going so figured something was jamming it. You mentioned getting a replacement which I assume is the arm assembly? Can you suggest somewhere to purchase this arm (part number?) and the spring you mentioned? Cheers Tim
Very good information,thank you very much
Did you ever do a video on replacing one I have the exact same problem, tried removing all the dirt and loosing it but was only temporary fix.
Tak jak mówisz w filmie brakuje tutaj sprężyny "rozciągającej" linkę hamulca (do tego modelu pasuje sprężyna linki hamulca ręcznego TRW), chociaż z czasem i tak to nie pomaga gdy oba ramiona są bardzo zanieczyszczone. - There's lack of handbreak cable spring - type TRW
When you remove these calipers slacken off the hand brake is chocking the front wheels against house bricks enough to keep the car from rolling ? I was thinking of doing the wheel bearing as well. I suppose the bearing needs losening with the tyres on and cap off also hqnd brake on
respekt
Really useful. Can the 13mm nut be removed, or does that expose / release a spring? I will research further. Thanks
Hi Peter,
If you mean the nut on the brake caliper arm (the one for the handbrake), then I have removed it on the old caliper and this has not changed anything. I also did not gain any good access by doing so. I was gentle though, perhaps if I pulled the arm stronger I would see something moving.
Hope it helps a bit.
Cheers
The arm moves but does not fully return. Because of the self adjusting mechanism, you cannot get any movement to enable dirt to be washed/blown out.
Then you either need to remove the caliper from the car and do full service on it (there are repair kits with rubber seals for this element) or buy new unfortunately...
My honda city car handbreak problm, wheel bearing broken in 3,4 months even the handbreak is down when i draving.
I'm not sure if it's a Handbrake jam, but while driving, at some point (random time), my 307 SW would indicate the Handbrake light as being engaged, and I get the red STOP sign flashing. Then, I have to pull over, stop the engine completely, cut the contact, and then start the car again. After this, the car would work normally again.
What I have noticed, is that when this happens, changing gears feels weird and there is a strange vibration each time I shift gear. The strange thing is: when I stop the car and start again, the problem disappear and I can drive normally.
Do you think it's the same problem that you had?
Hi Elie,
This is not the same thing as explained it this video. When the warning sign "STOP" is blinking on the dashboard it usually is something critical. I had it only once and in my case the battery was very old and the car did not get enough power to run the CPU and therefore some information was lost on the way. When I have changed the battery the problems stopped. Have you checked with PP2000 whether you have any error code available? With such sign on the dashboard you should have an error code saved on the CPU.
Cheers
Alright. Thanks for clarifying. I'll definitely check that.
why did u not take the 13mm nut off and replace the rubber washer?
Hi Gary, good question!
In the first run I took the nut off but I still could not remove the arm and I've put quite some force into trying. It might be simply rust but it also might be that you need to remove more than just 13 mm nut. Note that the nut is rotating together with the arm when tightened. In general the whole part was in bad condition, corroded and jamming. I have seen "maintenance kits" including washers that you mention and more. That could be a good solution in case the part looks OK but then I would recommend to remove the whole assembly and disconnect the hydraulic cable (braking fluid) to do full service on it. It's very limited space to work from under the car.
Cheers!
in my case , i have tight the nut but and then it coming lose again . do you know what the problem ?
Hi Muhammad,
What nut do you mean? (you can ref the vid time)
Is It Fixed Yet ? 1.05 minutes
Is It Fixed Yet ? hai , u didn’t reply my message.
I understand there is a language issue here, but it's a spanner or socket not key.
You are sort of on the right track with your diagnosis but try taking it apart to see what the propblem really is.
There is a rubber dust cover but it certainly isn't the reason it jams - there is a hefty spring INSIDE returning lever as well as the 'peg spring' on the outside. There is no way a bit of rubber would cause that much friction.
Like all seals they are great when new but when worn or split they do a great job of keeping the water IN. The end of the shaft then gets very rusty and the rotation of the lever cork-screws the rusty shaft into a soft bronze bush, And it jams.
Take off the lever (you may have to slacken the handbrake cable). Prise out the seal or cut it away with a scalpel and carefully scrape the rust from the shaft with a blade. polish it up a bit with scotchbrite. Now slap it with thick grease.
I made a new seal to keep the grease in with a short stump of thick wall silicone tubing. Not a common thing to have kicking around but it worked. My guess is thaat the grease will stay put without a seal anyway. Just keep an eye on it. This is a great fix for the only weak point of an otherwise genius mechanism. Will Caro