Im building a DMR from the ground up and I’m having reset issues with my kythera. Going to try and take your advice to fine tune it and hopefully get it up and running soon.
@@sausageofmarnies2799 I got my kythera about 3 weeks ago. I’m having issues resetting it. Initially I thought i had everything right and I had added a little bit of blue loctite to the grub screw after I tuned it and everything felt right. After about maybe 500 shots it started to stop resetting. So decided to take it apart and retune it again. Now that I’ve loctite the grub screws im unable to remove or adjust the top grub screw. I turned it once or twice and it seems to have stripped it and now im screwed lol.
@@dorkstarx ok so since your system is new you likely have the updated seer and disconnector so that's not a problem, for your screws remove the trigger mechanism from the kuthera body and drill the stripped screws out using a 5/64 drill bit and you can buy new screws at ace hardware if you're in the US the sizes are #4-40×1/16 for the short screw and #4-40×3/8 for the long ones. As for your trigger not reseting the most common cause I've seen of that is not enough tension in the trigger spring, you'll either have to put more washers (5 or more) under that spring or install the screw and use that to create tension in the spring. The least likely cause, but also one that I have encountered, of trigger reset is that your regulator might be set too low and the system isn't getting enough air to reset between shots. Assume it's the first problem first and let me know if you're still having trouble
Hello! Hoping you can give some input on a Kythera issue I am having, happened initially due to low pressure I believe but upping the pressure didn't fix it: When I pull the trigger I get a click and reset, but no air entering the barrel/nozzle movement
I learned afterward that the disconnector screw is the cause of most of the common issues that people have woth kytheras, I would recommend not even using it. I don't have it installed in mine and it's working much better than when I did have it in
you have issue running the engine on low pressure because of the heavy poppet spring, put back the lighter one and it should work better when you have to dial the pressure down
@@Asghaad 100% true, on the plus side I've fixed so many problems with kytheras now that I could probably diagnose it without even having to take a gun apart and tell you how to fix it
@@sausageofmarnies2799 I use the V2 Kythera with high power spring, UGS, with a Maxx ME Pro, R-hop and Modify 60° flat bucking. My barrel is a 430mm da vinci steel one. I am shooting 0.45g BBs are 2.5-2.7Joules. The grouping is horizontally great. The Problem is the vertical deviation. At 75meters some bbs hit the target, some fly 1 meter above and some bbs drop to the ground 10meters in front of the target.
@@marcoviebrock1550 DMR build? I know kytheras have alignment issues with the original maxx hops but the new P* specific hop fixed that, also I've never heard of da Vinci barrels so I can't speak to their quality but I know that if you're shooting for distance it's actually recommended to run a .05 or .08 barrel bore. Last thing, the ryusoky baton bucking are ass in my experience, get a maple leaf super macaron, MR hop, MR silicone, or Super silicone paired with a maple leaf omega nub and that should boost your consistency by a noticeable amount
@@sausageofmarnies2799 Instead of the modify flat and r-hop I went for a tnt tr hop last game. it made a huge improvement, but isnt perfect jet. I will test the buckings you recommended. I have a 6.01 and 6.05 barrel. I will test the 6.05 next game. which method do you recommend to check nozzle allignment? I saw videos about a flashlight through the magwell and someone pushed a barrel through the muzzle, withh not hopup unit, until it reached the nozzle to check it.
@@sausageofmarnies2799 it's pressurizing properly, it's cycling well. But when the nozzle is extend (normal position )it flow a little bit, constantly .
@@Marc-dk1zw make sure you pull all the o rings off and clean the grooves they sit in as well. I recommend superlube multipurpose synthetic to relubricate when you're done cleaning and ready to reassemble
I have a EMG F-1 Firearms PDW AR15 AEG and want to convert it to HPA (Polarstar F2 Engine). You used a G&G V2 gearbox shell? Did you have to do any fitment modifications? Because I want to use all Maxx products in it. The APS gearbox is not compatible with the TM Maxx trigger. Thank you for your informative video.
Got a question: my Kythera has that 1mm of play and moves around in the shell, but I can't get my hands on the Polarstar shims (they are out of stock in all the stores close to me and unfortunately shipping 2 small washers from US to EU is a bit of a pain). Do you have any idea what could be used as a replacement?
Try some electrical tape, pur it on the inside of the gearbox where the posts are that hold the kythera in place, it should hold well enough until you can find a better option
The 101 Polarstar video says if you use the sear set screw, you have to use the disconnect set screw too. You adjust them together, I think that's your issue man.
Oh I just saw this comment, I always unscrew the tank and pull the trigger to release any internal tension and extend the spring life. I wouldn't recommend leaving your systems pressurized as it could wear the parts down quicker
@@bobby0panganiban I'm not 100% only because I've never tried to max it out but you should be able to clear over 420 since I play pretty close to 400 for outdoors and there's still a decent ways to go before maxing out, not gonna hit sniper ranges but DMR should be no problem
As far as I know it should but I've never installed one in a CYMA qbs so I can't say with certainty. Of course if that CYMA is using a standard V2 gearbox then it's pretty much guaranteed to fit. And if it uses a non standard nozzle length P* sells a ton of kythera nozzles you can swap to get the proper fit. For example the kythera I have in a KWA 2.5+ gearbox is V2 but the standard V2 nozzle was too short so I had to swap it for their #21 nozzle
Hey, I'm new to HPA and I just bought a secondhand Kythera with a 33g UGS system. I don't have my gun set up yet, or an HPA tank, but I was just wondering if you've ever ran into the issue where the nozzle isn't fully resetting all the way forward. I took it apart and lubed everything even polished the sear, however, it seems that every time I dry fire the system I have to physically pull the nozzle forward. It also sounds really weak when dry firing it. Looking at your video comparing it to mine it seems yours fully reset all the way forward. I'm just concerned before I do my build that I bought a faulty unit. I feel a lot of resistance when pulling the nozzle forward even while taking out the first O-ring to test fire it. Any insights would be appreciated!
I have seen that in a couple different scenarios. One is worn your regulator pressure is too low to cycle the system. Another time when the internal kythera spring wasn't strong enough to reset the nozzle but this only happens in specific bodies and I've only ever seen it happen in KWAs for some reason. The third, and the only one I don't understand, is when the internal spring is too strong, I have a friend that has a kythera MCX and every time it's had a heavy internal spring it malfunctions. Did you receive all the kythera parts when you got it? Including the grub screws and the spare internal spring?
@@sausageofmarnies2799 Hey, thank you for the reply! I believe I did get all of the extra components that came with the system, washers and heavy spring along with all the set screws to tune the system. I have tried the heavy spring to no effect, but haven't tried adjusting the screws to tune the system. In the middle section of your video while firing the Kythera and waiting for the reset, I've noticed that it has a clear click resetting and the nozzle moves forward quite a bit compared to mine. Basically my normal dry fire moves the nozzle about halfway, while your reset does about the same until you fully fire. I do hear it resetting, but mine barely moves the nozzle up at all.
@ScarletxDevil are you testing with or without air connected? If there's no air and you're resetting the nozzle by hand then pressing the trigger link and the nozzle stays halfway in, that's not a problem. The nozzle doesn't go all the way out sometimes if air isn't connected
@@sausageofmarnies2799 Okay, that's what I'm concerned about because all of the videos I've seen the unit doesn't have that issue and the nozzle fully extracts, and I'm kind of worried. I don't have a tank or line yet.
What spring are you using in your Kythera? Are you having any feeding issues? I have Kythera in a MCX and have been having feeding issues from double feeding to just chopping the BBS up. I had to to change my meter screw all the way down the .019. No more chopping BBs but some double feeds. Nozzle is aligned with Maxx ME and Lambda 6.01 inner barrel. Maple Leaf MR hop. strangest thing after I aligned the nozzle it shot fine for a while and then all of a sudden almost every shit went fly to left. i’m not talking about just a little. Any thoughts?
I use the heavy spring in mine and I have the stock metering screw which I believe was the largest size available (gold colored one) and it works fine. I also have a friend's kythera at the moment thay is in a MCX but that one has the light spring with the gold metering screw. From my experience with my build so far the only things that cause double feeds were a warped outer barrel and an inner barrel that was improperly centered in the hop so it rotated and the hop window wasn't in the correct position
My stock meter screw was .029. Then went down to .024 and still had bbs getting chopped. At the current .019 it does not chop BBs but still double feeds. I was thinking the inner barrel might not be seated correctly but though it’s strange that it was shooing fine for at least 100 shots before things went to the left. going to have to open it back up today to check the inner barrel.
Yeah the 0.29 is the same one in every kythera I've built and none have had issues, have you checked to make sure everything is seated properly? I actually blue loctite the metering screws in place since I have seen them come out some which can cause issues. Did you tune your system using the grub screws?
only if I was as lucky as all your builds. when the faster meter screw. I can see the BBs get chopped up in the Maxx chamber window. I did locators the meter screw. Don’t know how many time i had to take this MCX apart. did did adjust throes screws on the trigger and after tinkering with it for a while and lock-in it down. it seems to be working fine. if things start to act up with trigger reset. going to take that one screw that you talked about in you video out.
How do you find the grouping and accuracy with heavy bbs? I'm worried about the fixed volume being an issue using .36 or .4s on a 6.03 363mm barrel. I currently use an F2 but want to move that to a new indoor build a get a kythera for my out door gun. Just cant seem to get my head around fixed volume on hpa.
Nice instructions. What is your experience with "refresh rate" of the kythera when shooting on fast semi ? (Since you have F2 also, I guess you can compare) I am experiencing stable +-2 fps when going slow @ 1.2J@90PSI, but spamming trigger at about 6 RPS gets me -20 fps (however stable). Not sure if it is my regulator's fault, or simply kythera's "feature" being all mechanical and not handling high ROF.
I'll have to chrono again with rapid fire shots to give you a proper answer but from my experience if you're getting huge deviations like that then there's something wrong somewhere in the system
@@sausageofmarnies2799DId you ever test your setup like the person above requested? I'm having the same issues as they describe as well. I've had no luck in finding the answer/solution.
@squidmonkeystudios6323 not yet, but I can do it today. The only thing is, I run mine on a CGS so your regulator you're using may have different results than my setup
Im building a DMR from the ground up and I’m having reset issues with my kythera. Going to try and take your advice to fine tune it and hopefully get it up and running soon.
How long ago did you get your kythera? And what exactly is the issue you're having with it?
@@sausageofmarnies2799 I got my kythera about 3 weeks ago. I’m having issues resetting it. Initially I thought i had everything right and I had added a little bit of blue loctite to the grub screw after I tuned it and everything felt right. After about maybe 500 shots it started to stop resetting. So decided to take it apart and retune it again. Now that I’ve loctite the grub screws im unable to remove or adjust the top grub screw. I turned it once or twice and it seems to have stripped it and now im screwed lol.
@@dorkstarx ok so since your system is new you likely have the updated seer and disconnector so that's not a problem, for your screws remove the trigger mechanism from the kuthera body and drill the stripped screws out using a 5/64 drill bit and you can buy new screws at ace hardware if you're in the US the sizes are #4-40×1/16 for the short screw and #4-40×3/8 for the long ones. As for your trigger not reseting the most common cause I've seen of that is not enough tension in the trigger spring, you'll either have to put more washers (5 or more) under that spring or install the screw and use that to create tension in the spring. The least likely cause, but also one that I have encountered, of trigger reset is that your regulator might be set too low and the system isn't getting enough air to reset between shots. Assume it's the first problem first and let me know if you're still having trouble
Thank u sr for ur knowledge I appreciate ur sharing this information.
Hello! Hoping you can give some input on a Kythera issue I am having, happened initially due to low pressure I believe but upping the pressure didn't fix it:
When I pull the trigger I get a click and reset, but no air entering the barrel/nozzle movement
Have you tuned it using the set screws?
40min of Kythera tips, gonna like & save this video for further (hope I don't need it) issues.
I learned afterward that the disconnector screw is the cause of most of the common issues that people have woth kytheras, I would recommend not even using it. I don't have it installed in mine and it's working much better than when I did have it in
@@sausageofmarnies2799 Same, not using it
@@didisphynx this is the way 👌
you have issue running the engine on low pressure because of the heavy poppet spring, put back the lighter one and it should work better when you have to dial the pressure down
The issue was the disconnector not my internal spring, I already fixed it 👍
@@sausageofmarnies2799 glad you found the fix for the issue either way, nothing sucks in airsoft more than having issue with your main gun ;)
@@Asghaad 100% true, on the plus side I've fixed so many problems with kytheras now that I could probably diagnose it without even having to take a gun apart and tell you how to fix it
great video.
do you have some advice on consistent hop? My setup works great, apart from the inconsistent hop.
What kind of hop unit, barrel, and bucking are you running?
@@sausageofmarnies2799 I use the V2 Kythera with high power spring, UGS, with a Maxx ME Pro, R-hop and Modify 60° flat bucking. My barrel is a 430mm da vinci steel one. I am shooting 0.45g BBs are 2.5-2.7Joules. The grouping is horizontally great. The Problem is the vertical deviation. At 75meters some bbs hit the target, some fly 1 meter above and some bbs drop to the ground 10meters in front of the target.
@@marcoviebrock1550 DMR build? I know kytheras have alignment issues with the original maxx hops but the new P* specific hop fixed that, also I've never heard of da Vinci barrels so I can't speak to their quality but I know that if you're shooting for distance it's actually recommended to run a .05 or .08 barrel bore. Last thing, the ryusoky baton bucking are ass in my experience, get a maple leaf super macaron, MR hop, MR silicone, or Super silicone paired with a maple leaf omega nub and that should boost your consistency by a noticeable amount
@@sausageofmarnies2799 Instead of the modify flat and r-hop I went for a tnt tr hop last game. it made a huge improvement, but isnt perfect jet.
I will test the buckings you recommended.
I have a 6.01 and 6.05 barrel. I will test the 6.05 next game.
which method do you recommend to check nozzle allignment? I saw videos about a flashlight through the magwell and someone pushed a barrel through the muzzle, withh not hopup unit, until it reached the nozzle to check it.
@@sausageofmarnies2799 are there any flat buckings that work well with hpa guns?
hello, what's your advice if there is a little air flow coming from the nozzle of kythera? a very tiny flow
Its leaking? Or are you saying it's not pressurizing properly?
@@sausageofmarnies2799 it's pressurizing properly, it's cycling well. But when the nozzle is extend (normal position )it flow a little bit, constantly .
@@Marc-dk1zw when was the last time you cleaned it? It's most likely due to some dirt/debris keeping the o rings from sealing properly
@@sausageofmarnies2799 I will try the cleaning properly ;) ty
@@Marc-dk1zw make sure you pull all the o rings off and clean the grooves they sit in as well. I recommend superlube multipurpose synthetic to relubricate when you're done cleaning and ready to reassemble
I have a EMG F-1 Firearms PDW AR15 AEG and want to convert it to HPA (Polarstar F2 Engine). You used a G&G V2 gearbox shell? Did you have to do any fitment modifications? Because I want to use all Maxx products in it. The APS gearbox is not compatible with the TM Maxx trigger. Thank you for your informative video.
Got a question: my Kythera has that 1mm of play and moves around in the shell, but I can't get my hands on the Polarstar shims (they are out of stock in all the stores close to me and unfortunately shipping 2 small washers from US to EU is a bit of a pain). Do you have any idea what could be used as a replacement?
Try some electrical tape, pur it on the inside of the gearbox where the posts are that hold the kythera in place, it should hold well enough until you can find a better option
The 101 Polarstar video says if you use the sear set screw, you have to use the disconnect set screw too.
You adjust them together, I think that's your issue man.
You're late to the party man, I already fixed all my kythera issues and even made more videos talking about all that stuff 👍👍
when your store the gun, do you have to unscrew the tank every time or can you leave it in there?
Oh I just saw this comment, I always unscrew the tank and pull the trigger to release any internal tension and extend the spring life. I wouldn't recommend leaving your systems pressurized as it could wear the parts down quicker
Hey man, what method of polishing did you use? Thanks.
I used a dremel with the polishing wheel attachment and some mother mag and aluminum polish, I talk about it in one of my other kythera videos
How long is the hose connecting the UGS and the engine.
Maybe 3-4 inches for the type 1 like mine
@@sausageofmarnies2799 Thanks
@@sausageofmarnies2799
What is the max fps can you get with hard spring on the Kythera and hard spring on UGS?
@@bobby0panganiban I'm not 100% only because I've never tried to max it out but you should be able to clear over 420 since I play pretty close to 400 for outdoors and there's still a decent ways to go before maxing out, not gonna hit sniper ranges but DMR should be no problem
Thinking of getting the kythera will it fit inside cyma qbs gearbox?
As far as I know it should but I've never installed one in a CYMA qbs so I can't say with certainty. Of course if that CYMA is using a standard V2 gearbox then it's pretty much guaranteed to fit. And if it uses a non standard nozzle length P* sells a ton of kythera nozzles you can swap to get the proper fit. For example the kythera I have in a KWA 2.5+ gearbox is V2 but the standard V2 nozzle was too short so I had to swap it for their #21 nozzle
Hey, I'm new to HPA and I just bought a secondhand Kythera with a 33g UGS system. I don't have my gun set up yet, or an HPA tank, but I was just wondering if you've ever ran into the issue where the nozzle isn't fully resetting all the way forward. I took it apart and lubed everything even polished the sear, however, it seems that every time I dry fire the system I have to physically pull the nozzle forward. It also sounds really weak when dry firing it. Looking at your video comparing it to mine it seems yours fully reset all the way forward. I'm just concerned before I do my build that I bought a faulty unit. I feel a lot of resistance when pulling the nozzle forward even while taking out the first O-ring to test fire it. Any insights would be appreciated!
I have seen that in a couple different scenarios. One is worn your regulator pressure is too low to cycle the system. Another time when the internal kythera spring wasn't strong enough to reset the nozzle but this only happens in specific bodies and I've only ever seen it happen in KWAs for some reason. The third, and the only one I don't understand, is when the internal spring is too strong, I have a friend that has a kythera MCX and every time it's had a heavy internal spring it malfunctions. Did you receive all the kythera parts when you got it? Including the grub screws and the spare internal spring?
@@sausageofmarnies2799 Hey, thank you for the reply! I believe I did get all of the extra components that came with the system, washers and heavy spring along with all the set screws to tune the system. I have tried the heavy spring to no effect, but haven't tried adjusting the screws to tune the system. In the middle section of your video while firing the Kythera and waiting for the reset, I've noticed that it has a clear click resetting and the nozzle moves forward quite a bit compared to mine. Basically my normal dry fire moves the nozzle about halfway, while your reset does about the same until you fully fire. I do hear it resetting, but mine barely moves the nozzle up at all.
@ScarletxDevil are you testing with or without air connected? If there's no air and you're resetting the nozzle by hand then pressing the trigger link and the nozzle stays halfway in, that's not a problem. The nozzle doesn't go all the way out sometimes if air isn't connected
@@sausageofmarnies2799 Okay, that's what I'm concerned about because all of the videos I've seen the unit doesn't have that issue and the nozzle fully extracts, and I'm kind of worried. I don't have a tank or line yet.
@ScarletxDevil try it again when you have a tank and regulator, if it still doesn't reset let me know
What spring are you using in your Kythera? Are you having any feeding issues? I have Kythera in a MCX and have been having feeding issues from double feeding to just chopping the BBS up. I had to to change my meter screw all the way down the .019. No more chopping BBs but some double feeds. Nozzle is aligned with Maxx ME and Lambda 6.01 inner barrel. Maple Leaf MR hop. strangest thing after I aligned the nozzle it shot fine for a while and then all of a sudden almost every shit went fly to left. i’m not talking about just a little. Any thoughts?
I use the heavy spring in mine and I have the stock metering screw which I believe was the largest size available (gold colored one) and it works fine. I also have a friend's kythera at the moment thay is in a MCX but that one has the light spring with the gold metering screw. From my experience with my build so far the only things that cause double feeds were a warped outer barrel and an inner barrel that was improperly centered in the hop so it rotated and the hop window wasn't in the correct position
My stock meter screw was .029. Then went down to .024 and still had bbs getting chopped. At the current .019 it does not chop BBs but still double feeds. I was thinking the inner barrel might not be seated correctly but though it’s strange that it was shooing fine for at least 100 shots before things went to the left. going to have to open it back up today to check the inner barrel.
Yeah the 0.29 is the same one in every kythera I've built and none have had issues, have you checked to make sure everything is seated properly? I actually blue loctite the metering screws in place since I have seen them come out some which can cause issues. Did you tune your system using the grub screws?
only if I was as lucky as all your builds. when the faster meter screw. I can see the BBs get chopped up in the Maxx chamber window. I did locators the meter screw. Don’t know how many time i had to take this MCX apart. did did adjust throes screws on the trigger and after tinkering with it for a while and lock-in it down. it seems to be working fine. if things start to act up with trigger reset. going to take that one screw that you talked about in you video out.
How do you find the grouping and accuracy with heavy bbs? I'm worried about the fixed volume being an issue using .36 or .4s on a 6.03 363mm barrel. I currently use an F2 but want to move that to a new indoor build a get a kythera for my out door gun. Just cant seem to get my head around fixed volume on hpa.
I’m pretty late but I use my Kythera with .4 bbs with 6.01mm Tightbore 550mm barrel with a flat hop shooting around 350fps and mine is a laser
Nice instructions. What is your experience with "refresh rate" of the kythera when shooting on fast semi ? (Since you have F2 also, I guess you can compare) I am experiencing stable +-2 fps when going slow @ 1.2J@90PSI, but spamming trigger at about 6 RPS gets me -20 fps (however stable). Not sure if it is my regulator's fault, or simply kythera's "feature" being all mechanical and not handling high ROF.
I'll have to chrono again with rapid fire shots to give you a proper answer but from my experience if you're getting huge deviations like that then there's something wrong somewhere in the system
@@sausageofmarnies2799DId you ever test your setup like the person above requested? I'm having the same issues as they describe as well. I've had no luck in finding the answer/solution.
@squidmonkeystudios6323 not yet, but I can do it today. The only thing is, I run mine on a CGS so your regulator you're using may have different results than my setup
This engine can also use CO2, right?
Yes, the UGS can be used with CO2 if you have the adaptor for it, it would get really expensive pretty quick though to be constantly buying new carts
my kythera is go full auto 45rps
Bro how it’s a semi engine