Now get this one. When I was a kid, this old man had a lawn mower that wasn't getting enough spark to start. I know this sounds like a tall tail but he took the plug wire in one hand & put a finger from his other hand on the spark plug & it would run. Don't know if anyone has been zapped by a spark plug, but it hurts. Didn't bother him a bit. That's how he checked if there was spark. Geeze. If I didn't see it I would be thinking what you all are thinking.
Perhaps if you would fill up with quality Sinclair gas, that would eliminate those rough running and stalling issues. LOL... One way to tell the condition of the timing chain is to pull the cap off, turn the engine one way by hand until the rotor moves, then slowly turn back the other direction until the rotor moves the other way. The two tools that I always use to diagnose engine problems are a compression tester and vacuum gauge. The compression tester will reveal if the chain jumped because at least a couple valves will be open when they shouldn't be. To my ear it cranks normal, probably nothing wrong with the chain. I would also suggest checking the condition of the distributor itself. If the bushings are worn it will wreck the points and the ignition timing will be all over the place. You probably don't have a 6v timing light but that reveals a lot about IGNITION(not valve) timing.
Just had to do that the same way on a 92 ford 6. It may be electronic ignition but checked timing chain the same way by watching the rotor. Engine basics will always be in order to run. Even with the low flow mechanical fuel pump looks like enough to start and run.
You can check the tension of the chain by taking the dist cap off and grab crank and rock it back and forth.. If there is slop in the chain the rotor will not move as quickly as the crank.. You can pull #1 plug and put it on TDC and check the rotor position .. Should be pointing to #1 on the dist cap ... But I know you will get this licked !!
Put some gas directly in the carb. Try that before saying it's not gas. Could be the angle the car was on like zx8401 said or the carb plugged up with dirt. Definitely try timing light like Matthew mentioned. You'll get it. ;)
I'm sure by now you know that you can check a timing chain by pulling the distributer cap and rotating the crank shaft (via the front pulley) and watching the rotor move ( or not ) when you rock the crank back and forth. A good chain will have little lag and a loose chain will make the rotor sit there for several degrees of crank rotation. But I know you've checked that already.
The new unleaded fuel rots the old diaphrams in the fuel pumps i still think its electrical bad points or leads ,condenser , coil i've had a coil go bad like that could still be fuel a blocked main jet will cause it to run like that
Yeah, it was throwing some fuel, but wonder if fuel pressure is right... I dunno, maybe squirt some gas down the carb while you are cranking just to eliminate fuel altogether... Still, it does sound like a timing chain, don't it? Cough pop cough...
Now get this one. When I was a kid, this old man had a lawn mower that wasn't getting enough spark to start. I know this sounds like a tall tail but he took the plug wire in one hand & put a finger from his other hand on the spark plug & it would run. Don't know if anyone has been zapped by a spark plug, but it hurts. Didn't bother him a bit. That's how he checked if there was spark. Geeze. If I didn't see it I would be thinking what you all are thinking.
hahaha..
You'll figure it out.
Of course I will..
Perhaps if you would fill up with quality Sinclair gas, that would eliminate those rough running and stalling issues.
LOL...
One way to tell the condition of the timing chain is to pull the cap off, turn the engine one way by hand until the rotor moves, then slowly turn back the other direction until the rotor moves the other way.
The two tools that I always use to diagnose engine problems are a compression tester and vacuum gauge. The compression tester will reveal if the chain jumped because at least a couple valves will be open when they shouldn't be. To my ear it cranks normal, probably nothing wrong with the chain.
I would also suggest checking the condition of the distributor itself. If the bushings are worn it will wreck the points and the ignition timing will be all over the place. You probably don't have a 6v timing light but that reveals a lot about IGNITION(not valve) timing.
Just had to do that the same way on a 92 ford 6. It may be electronic ignition but checked timing chain the same way by watching the rotor. Engine basics will always be in order to run. Even with the low flow mechanical fuel pump looks like enough to start and run.
i was thinking distributor but could be fuel...longer it ran the worse it was getting
You can check the tension of the chain by taking the dist cap off and grab crank and rock it back and forth.. If there is slop in the chain the rotor will not move as quickly as the crank.. You can pull #1 plug and put it on TDC and check the rotor position .. Should be pointing to #1 on the dist cap ... But I know you will get this licked !!
Ya gota love the fords with the starter solenoid on the fender well.
love old cars
Ooh those spark-plug wires are a BITCH to replace, I just did them on my 55.
SERIOUSLY! I like that they're out of the way and all, but good grief! Never seen a set so hard to swap..
it sounds like carb might have some junk in it, lean pops. point gap. they like attention sounded good.
Put some gas directly in the carb. Try that before saying it's not gas. Could be the angle the car was on like zx8401 said or the carb plugged up with dirt. Definitely try timing light like Matthew mentioned. You'll get it. ;)
I'm sure by now you know that you can check a timing chain by pulling the distributer cap and rotating the crank shaft (via the front pulley) and watching the rotor move ( or not ) when you rock the crank back and forth. A good chain will have little lag and a loose chain will make the rotor sit there for several degrees of crank rotation. But I know you've checked that already.
old timer told me years ago usually jump time when you shut them off.
Yep that's true. This one was running good, then not.. It wasn't cut off..
Dang it dang it dang it, You'll find it, keep checking.
Hmm i would test the gas with the back end high to simulate that downward sloping road it died on.
It ran on the level, you know that :-)
The new unleaded fuel rots the old diaphrams in the fuel pumps
i still think its electrical bad points or leads ,condenser , coil
i've had a coil go bad like that
could still be fuel a blocked main jet will cause it to run like that
Yeah, it was throwing some fuel, but wonder if fuel pressure is right... I dunno, maybe squirt some gas down the carb while you are cranking just to eliminate fuel altogether... Still, it does sound like a timing chain, don't it? Cough pop cough...
Yep. That's what I'm thinkin'.. Timing chain has been the most common reason for a car to go from running fine to not, in my experience..
T=up
6V positive ground? If so, how are you getting it to crank so fast? ;-) Seriously though....mine cranks slow as hell, but always starts.
Yea they're like that. Slow crank but still start.
doesn't look like it is pushing enough fuel..kinda goes pop drizzle pop like when you try to run it.