Greetings...SuperBee Hemi...…….Thanks, for the nice comment, and for, watching too...…….New design of Hemi, nah, no thanks, but, a good ole, (painted orange) 426 Hemi, with dual quads, now we're talkin'...lol...and till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hey Rocky! just a quick comment. If I remember correctly, the old 60's mechanical pumps had a weep hole like the water pumps had. You always knew if the diaphragm was shot by leaking. But First if not leaking or smelling of fuel, always change out the inline fuel filter first. Especially if intermittent stalling out. Once sediment settles, it will run again for a bit. Cheers from Michigan. Thanks for sharing.
Nice explanation thanks helped me no end ,found the pump get a spare from wreckers and refitted the pump ,primed the motor and voila ! just Like a NEW one only $100 cheaper than the last time it happened to a car of mine 10 years ago so that $100 would most likely be $300 Now!! I owe you a beer or three for that one mate...cheers
Greetings...Niki Markieren............Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too..........Yeah, I learned, not too long ago, that..."New"...isn't always..."Better"...than..."Used"...lol.............Now then, please do, allow me to explain, about such a thing (actually, it was more like a "happening"...lol)...........A few year ago, I thought that, it would be, a pretty darn, good idea, to replace, a mechanical (type of) fuel pump, that, was on, a smaller, Oldsmobile, V-8 engine, that was "working good", but, was rather old (in Years), and, had lots of miles (or, kilometers) of use on it...........So, I goes to the parts store, and gets me (and the car too...lol), a..."brand new/top brand name"...mechanical type of fuel pump, and I...Re & Re'd..."it" (Re & Re = Re-move and Re-place), oh, and..."it"...happens to be a fuel pump...lol...........Well, the installation part of it, went very well....then, a few days later, another type of..."it"...happened, and, almost, yes, I said almost..."left me (and the car too), stranded"...(good thing, that..."it/the happening""...happened, on a quiet road, without having, very many other cars around, at all)...........Well, after quite a few starting attempts, Ya might say, that a (small?)..."Miracle"...happened, as in, the "thing" ("thing" in this case = engine...lol), actually started, but, barely stayed running, but, just enough, for me, to..."Nurse/Limp"..."it"...back home, just a few miles away ("it", this time = whole damn car...!!!...lol)..........So, what was causing this...(You choose the "word"...lol)...Problem...???...!!!.............Well now, when I got around to checking the..."flow-rate"...of the gasoline, on the output side of the...Brand "NEW"...fuel pump, guess what happened...???.............Well now, I'd say, that, a "small Rodent", would be able to..."out-Pizz"...that (You choose the "word", yet again...lol), so called..."top brand name...NEW...fuel pump"...!!!...oh-my-goodness...how about that...???...lol...(I be guessin', that, that there, "NEW" fuel pump, might-ah had a, so called..."Manufacturer's Defect"...of, one kind, or another, don't-cha think, maybe...???)...........Thanks kindly, for the "Brew-skee" (aka, Beer) offer, my friend, as, I sure do, appreciate your kind gesture, but, Beer, (cans or bottles), don't travel so well, via the internet...lol...but, kind words...sure do.........."Cheers"...mate, I say (as the BIG Beer glasses) go..."Clank"...oops... I meant to say..."Clink"...and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings Alot327....Yes indeed, Mechanical fuel pumps might be on the left or right side of your engine, depending on where the Designers/Engineers chose/had to, because of the way in which the engine is built/designed....Just remember that Mechanical fuel pumps only last about 50,000 Miles, maybe more, maybe even less....So, if your fuel pump has high mileage on it, or it is old (in years), maybe put a new one in, so you won't get "Stranded" somewhere!....Take care, and have a good one...
Right above that input on the bottom there is that ridge thats just over the diaphragm. The hole there...what is it? I had similar issues and discovered that was leaking fuel through that hole. When I sealed the hole the car ran like a dream
Greetings...Keon Nelson...........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching..........Well, it was kinda detailed, to a certain point, somewhat, as, there should also be..."2"..."one way" (only) Check Valves, hidden, inside of, this mechanical type of fuel pump, somewhere...............The "inlet", (one way only) check valve, (that's on the "suction" side of the fuel pump), would let the gasoline through (from the fuel line, that came from the vehicle's gas tank), but, "would-not", let it flow back, into that fuel line............Then, once, the gasoline, gets inside of the fuel pump, and becomes under pressure, then, the only direction, that, the gasoline can flow, is through the "outlet", (one way only) Check Valve, that's on the "pressure" side, of the fuel pump, and then, the gasoline, makes its way, through the other fuel line, and into the carburetor's float bowl, it goes, well, until, the Needle Valve, in the carburetor's float bowl, shuts off the gasoline flow, that is.............So, there You have it, well, for now that is, and....till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hello once again, my Friend...Thanks for your nice comment....I hope that you can understand the information that I just typed in response to the question that you had about your 302-Engines fuel pump...Try to read all that you can about Safety, and any information, as it applies to your car, when you work on it...Just always be aware that your car has the potential to hurt you if you are not careful...Put your parking/emergency brake on, and, watch out for Hot, and Moving parts!...Bye-4-now...
If the plugs in your carb are covering the Idle "Mixture" screws, then all you can do is set the Idle "Speed".........Check the specifications for your vehicle, and set the Idle "Speed" to that......Remember Safety!.......Also, take a look at your Air Filter, as a "Dirty" Air Filter will cause your Carb to run "Rich" because it will restrict the flow of Air resulting in less Air, and more "Fuel" in the "Fuel Mixture" at Idle, and, at all engine speeds! Take care...
When I said to get the fastest engine speed, it was when you were adjusting the "Idle MIXTURE" screw/screws, not the Idle "Speed" screw.......If you had access to your Idle "Mixture" screws, then when you turn them "Clockwise", you get a "Leaner" Idle Mixture, and the engine revs faster until you turn them to the point where the engine revs start to slow down.......It is at this point, where the engine revs the fastest, just before the engine revs start to slow down that you adjust for.
...If your engine will not keep running on its own, then it could be a few things other then the fuel pump causing the problem....In the gas tank, there is usually a filter of some kind on the end of the fuel pick-up line (clogged maybe?), and usually does not need replacing....Also 1 or maybe 2 fuel filters in your engine compartment....Perhaps 1 of them mounted in/on your carburetor perhaps?....The 1 or 2 fuel filters in your engine compartment should be changed yearly....(con't)
Hello.....I'm not sure which Carb that you have there.......Any 2 or 4 Barrel carbs that I have seen with the tamper proof plugs, are usually covering the "Idle Mixture" screws......They are usually set at settings that will get you through the "Smog" test, and give you good mileage as well......Usually set at .5 to 1.5 CO....(Carbon Monoxide) if checked with a smog meter.
If it has a Throttle Body Injection (looks kinda like a Carburetor), then it needs somewhere around 13 PSI or more, and the other types of fuel injection mechanisms need around 50 PSI or more of fuel pressure!....Unless, your car has a Carburetor...then, your 302s Engine Block has to have the provision to have a "Mechanical" Fuel Pump mounted to the side of it...(con't)...
Hi there....I don't work on many Import carbs, mostly Domestic carbs.....Normally, a Main Jet is a fixed size, and starts to work when the engine is Above Idle.....Idle mixture (changes the amount of air/fuel mixture that the engine burns) at engine Idle speed.....Idle speed screw is the one that you turn to get the Idle Speed only......Given that there is a tamper proof plug there, just adjust the Idle Speed Screw the way it says to in your manual.....Remember Safety!!!!!!!!!!
Greetings johnnelson-hi8mj...I saw your other comment, about, not having the fuel pump installed, and sometimes, it can be, that we forget something, from time to time.......Even I, at times, have made a few mistakes, when putting things together......So then, we just have to find the mistake, and hopefully correct it, well, if possible, that is, and, take care, and have a good one.
here's the issue I'm having with my 1, it's leaking, but the hoses are ok it's coming from the pump, but a couple times I've tightened the bottom bolt and it's stopped leaking, but then when I start it up another time it's back to leaking, when I first noticed the issue I had steamy smoke coming from the engine bay but it went away after a bit, when the engine heats up, possibly the gasket is failing ? what do you think?
Greetings Jhosaphat78....A mechanical fuel pump is good for about 50,000 miles (maybe more, maybe less)...I had one of mine quit (fortunately) while I was driving on a side street (original pump with only about 30,000 miles on it)...If yours is either old, or has many miles on it, then it's better to change it at home, or, you might have it quit on you, in the middle of no-where, and Towing bills are expensive!...The older fuel pumps are not very expensive ($30.00 to $50.00 in Canada)...(con't)
Also try some Fuel System Cleaner in your gas tank........This will make its way through your carb, and clean out the different circuits in your carb......Make sure that the carb cleaner says that it is OK for cars that have carburetors!......Gasoline may look nice when it is new and in liquid form, but when old gasoline dries up, it turns into what looks like a brown colored varnish or glue!.......So often, a carbs problems are due to deposits that restrict or plug up tiny passages!!!!!!!!
Hello there.......A mechanical fuel pump is good for about 50,000 miles generally speaking.......I just returned a new fuel pump that didn't work properly, (very low output)......Make sure all fuel lines and filters are not restricted.....With engine warm, Parking Brake ON!.....Transmission in Park or Neutral, adjust mixture screw/screws to get fastest engine speed, then adjust Idle "Speed" screw to get the correct idle speed that is specified in a factory manual....Maybe a carb rebuild?
I replaced the pump in a 76 ford it turns over and runs but I don't see any fuel going to the fuel filter line into the carb. Also the truck will shift into gear but won't move in reverse or drive.. any suggestions? Great video by the way!
Greetings...TechDoc………..Thanks for the nice comment, and thanks, for watching too...…….Do you have a "see-through" fuel filter (because, that's probably, about the only way, that you'll be able to see any gasoline flowing, well, if it's flowing, that is)……….Did you install a "new" fuel filter...???...…….If the engine runs ok, and, there aren't any gasoline leaks, then, you should be good to go, engine-wise, that is...…….With most automatic transmissions, that don't have any drive, in forward or reverse gear, then, the first thing to do is..."Check" the automatic transmission's..."Fluid Level"...…….Try to find out, the procedure, for your "exact" vehicle (if you have the truck's owners manual, then, it might be found in there)………..The truck has to be on "Level" ground, or, the reading won't be accurate...…….Take a look on the automatic transmission's "Dip-Stick", for some lines, along with, hot or cold markings...……..Some automatics, are checked in Park, some in Neutral, but check first...…….The temperature of the fluid is important too...…….In a lot of cases, it might only take, one "pint" (1/2 of a Liter, there-abouts) of fluid, to raise, the fluid level up, quite a bit, so, if you need to add any fluid, then, only add a bit at a time, and re-check the level, that's showing on the dip-stick........Don't Over-Fill it...!!!...because, the fluid, might start to "Foam-up", and then, the transmission, will malfunction, and possibly get damaged...!!! (expensive to fix)………..Make sure, to use the "correct" type of fluid (1976, might use type "F" fluid, but always check)…...Sometimes, the type of fluid, is stamped into the dip-stick, so, look for that, just in case...……..The shifting linkage, might need to be adjusted...…….Not sure about yours, but, some auto-transmissions, might require, what is called, a "band" adjustment, and, if needed, a shift lever, linkage adjustment too...……..On the dip-stick, the fluid should look clean, and not look like, it's a brown-ish, varnish-like color, which could be a sign, that, it got too hot/over-heated...........If the fluid level, wasn't the problem, then, look on the internet, for some websites, that have a Ford Truck "Forum" on it, and ask those people, about your truck (some, same year, Car forums, will probably be able to help you out too)……….Good luck, and......till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Henry Gomez........Thanks for the nice comment, and thanks, for watching too........Here's, the typical, shall we say, "path", that, the gasoline follows, from start to finish.........Gasoline is already in the gas tank...then...there's usually a filter (sometimes called a sock), that's on the end of the pickup pipe/tube, that is located, inside of the gas tank, near the bottom...then...from there, the fuel line (tubing/pipe), usually gets connected to, the "inlet" side, of, the mechanical type of fuel pump...then...from the fuel pump's "outlet" side, the fuel line, will usually be connected to, what is called, an "inline" fuel filter, if there is one, that is...then...from there, the fuel line, will usually go, directly to the carburetor (some carburetors, such as, the Rochester 2 and 4 barrel carbs, will usually have, a small fuel filter, kinda hiding, inside of, a small, removable, screw-threaded fitting, that screws into the carburetor's main body)........If "any", of the fuel filters, happen to get plugged up, really bad, then, the fuel pump, won't be able to, pump enough gasoline, or maybe, none at all, into the carburetor, so, be aware of that, just in case, the fuel pump, gets "blamed", when it wasn't at fault, after all, just sayin'..........It's a good idea, to replace, the fuel filter/s, at the vehicle manufacturer's, recommended, replacement interval, oh, and, don't forget, about the air filter too.........In the past, I even had, a "brand new", brand name, mechanical type of fuel pump, that was "faulty/didn't work properly", right out of its shipping box...!!!...man, I sure wasn't expecting that, to ever happen, but, the parts store, exchanged it, no problem, with another, new, same brand of fuel pump, and look Ma, "it" works super good now...!!!...lol...and.......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow Thanks again. Needed to replace the mechanical fuel pump on my 1966 Dodge Polara. It was leaking like a sieve. I watched a few videos but found yours the most helpful. Everything worked out well. The only issue was accessing the bolts. I didn't want to move the alternator out of the way and then have to re-tighten the belts and all that. I was able to get the bolts out. One from above and the other from below. Man what a pain, 1/4 turn at a time. Long bolt, long time turning.
Greetings...Henry Gomez........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching (again...lol)........It's good to hear, that you, shall we say, "outsmarted", that, kinda-in-the-way alternator, that didn't have to be moved, after all was said and done........Just be thankful, that, it wasn't a part or component, that had to be re & re'd (removed and replaced), that was on an engine, that was in a much newer/current vehicle, because, I tend to think in terms (jokingly, that is), that, Ya might have to take, half of the engine apart, just to gain access to, the part or component, that Ya want to change out...!!!...lol........Also, the newer vehicles, that have computerized/fuel injected engines, will usually have an electric fuel pump, that, shall we say..."hides"...inside of the gas tank........In order to replace one of those "things", then, Ya usually have to drop the gas tank, down, from the vehicle, just to get at the darn thing...!!! (lol)...and, the electric fuel pump, will probably cost, quite a bit more, when compared to, our "ancient", mechanical type of fuel pump, and.....till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
...gasoline down into the 2 front Barrels of your carburetor (you might have to hold the Choke Plate open, so you can see the 2 front throttle bores)...then, re-install your air cleaner top (lid), and secure...then, push your gas pedal down, and release...Try starting your engine, it should at least Sputter to Life!..If it stalls, turn off the ignition, and take your key out, then, do the "Prime" routine again, making sure that your engine is Not Running when adding the gas "Prime!"...(con't)
You mentioned that your electric fuel pumps are burning out....Try keeping your gas tank at least 1/4 (one quarter) full, that will keep the fuel pump inside your gas tank (if you have one in there) cooler....Be careful when adding fuel system cleaner (if you do), because sometimes the Crud from your gas tank can plug your Fuel Filter!!!...When Fuel Filters get plugged, that can, and will burn out your Electric Fuel Pump!!!....Change your Fuel Filter at least every Year!....Take care, my Friend
So the cam lobe rapidly pushes the arm down and the spring (I think some pumps don't have springs though) forces it back up. Tell me, what's the distance it moves down and up?
Hi...my parents have an old 1987 Econoline RV and I'm told it looks like the mechanical fuel pump is leaking from the top of the pump. Is that possible? I mean, it's for sure leaking, but could it actually be leaking from the top of the pump, which looks very very much like the pump you talked about in this video. It doesn't look like any of the fuel lines are leaking; at least I couldn't see any leaks from them when I was told to look for myself. The gas seems to be squirting from the top of the pump near the engine, which means we couldn't see exactly where the gas was coming from. Do you have a video explaining/showing how to replace this pump? My grandpa wants to try his hand at changing it and I'd like to watch him do it. I thought all pumps were electric, but no so in the old Econolines I guess. Thank you. Good job explaining how this pump works by the way. I gave you a thumbs up Like...#34! -)
kathy loften I say...Greetings kathy loften (as I'm Waving to...Mom...Pops...&...Grandpa too)................Maybe, before I forget, I should also tell You, about my "Other" RUclips Video, on My RUclips Channel...RockysRoadshow....and the "Title", of that Video, that, I'm quite sure, You Folks, would probably want to watch as well, seeing as how this particular Video of mine, had You-All, shall we say, "Captivated" some-what, and, the "Title" of the Video in question, happens to be............(drum roll please...lol)............."Mechanical Type Fuel Pump Taken Apart"...enjoy...............................Now then, sorry, but I don't happen to have, a Video, on the "Actual Replacement", of a "Mechanical Type of Fuel Pump" at all, probably because, I'm not all that sure, that I'd be able to..."Park A Vehicle on Top of my Work-Bench, inside my House"...!!!...lol.........................................Most of my RUclips Videos, are just usually Made, on top of my Work-Bench, some-what Limiting the "Size" of my "Video Subject Matter" (as in, what-ever I can safely place on top of the work-bench), at this particular point in time..................."Warning"...when-ever working around "Gasoline", especially when it is in the form of a "Vapor", all it takes is, something like a Small "Spark", and..."Boom"..so, be very Careful...as in..."No Sparks or Smoking"...!!! (take Grandpa's Pipe away from Him, when He's Not Looking...and Hide It...!!!...lol)...........................Have a "Fire Extinguisher" with-in Reach...Just in case.............................Sometimes, that "Gasoline Leak", could just be, a Hose Clamp, or a Fitting/Nut, not being as "Tight as It should be", where it Connects to the actual Fuel Pump, and, sometimes, just needs to be "Tightened-Up" a bit, but, that's something that needs to be determined, once the "Initial Visual Inspection/have a look-see", and, what-ever it is, that happens to Turn-Up (and no, not the vegetable...lol)............................Have a look, to see, just how many "Connections", that there happens to be, on the Fuel Pump "Itself", as, there are quite a few "Different Fuel Pump Designs" out there............If the "Gasoline Leak"...is coming from the Fuel Pump Itself, and Not, just a Rubber Hose/Metal Tubing Line, then, it kinda looks like, that good ole Fuel Pump, has seen better days, and needs to be replaced with a "New" One.........................................."Re & Re-ing" (Removing and Replacing) a Mechanical Type of Fuel Pump, is quite straight-forward, and reasonably Simple.........................Usually, just needing, a couple of Common Hand Tools, like a couple of appropriate Sized Combination Wrenches, and maybe a Ratchet & some Sockets, if the Fuel Pump, doesn't get in the way, that is, and, maybe a Knife or Hacksaw, if a Rubber Hose, happens to be, part of, all of this (call-it-what-You-will)......................... Have a Catch-Bucket/Pail, to Catch any Dripping Gasoline, and maybe, a few drops of Motor Oil, as well, under the Fuel Pump's location, as, there's bound, to be some, shall we say "Drip-age"...lol......................................If...???...and maybe when...???...the undertaking, of that Mechanical Fuel Pump, Re-Placement, happens to take place..."Make Sure", that, once the "Old" Fuel Pump is removed, that, the "Surface on the Engine", where the Mounting Face, of the New Fuel Pump makes "Contact-With", on the Engine, has "All Traces", of the "Old Gasket"..."Removed, and be, Clean & Dry as well, or, You're-Gonna-Get-a-Leak, but this time,..."It's-Gonna-be-Motor-Oil"...lol .........................The "New" Fuel Pump, should come with a "New Gasket", that, shall we say, gets "Sang-wiched" (well, to be Politically Correct, then it's..."Sandwiched"...!!!...lol)..."Between"...the...Engine's Mounting Surface...and the...Fuel Pump's Mounting Surface.............Some Guys, and maybe, Gals too, just Install the Gasket..."Dry"...while "Others"...would..."Coat Both Sides of the Gasket"...with, a..."Sealant", of, one kind or another...it's, well, kinda, ahhhhh, Personal Choice, if You will, just sayin' (as I duck for Cover, just in case, They decide to..."Shoot the Messenger"...lol)........................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...I'm guessin' that, if-in we-all went back in Time, to the good ole "Horse and Buggy Days", we just might see, Someone (prolly Wearin' a Cowboy Hat), use-in, one of, them thar "Hand Water Pumps", to "Fill, that thar "Wooden Bucket", just after Hear-in...Someone...Yellin'...some-where's over-Yonder..."Go and Fetch Me's a Pail of Wadder" (Hey...No lol-ing allowed..this here is Serious Stuff...!!!..."Not"...lol)...gee's...I done lost track, of what I was fixin' to do.............Oh Yeah, that's It.........What I was eluding to, was, maybe, just maybe, it was that good ole "Hand Water Pump", back in the Old days, that Inspired/made the Suggestion there-of, and as I see it, probably, due to the, shall we say "Similarities", when comparing that "Hand Water Pump"..."To"...the "Fuel Pump" that We are Discussing here...only, the "RV's Engine"..."Replaces"...the "Humans Arm"...that had to "Actuate", that, as i was sayin' before, that good ole "Hand Water Pump" (prolly, where Humans, started to be Replaced with "Technology"..."Yikes"...!!!...lol)..............................................Just make sure, that the..."RV"...is..."Parked Outside"...is on..."Level Ground"...having the..."Gear Selector in Park" (automatic transmission, I presume?)...and have the..."Emergency/Parking Brake On"...and, some..."Wheel/Tire Chalks"...placed where, all 4 Tires Contact the Ground/Driveway/Parking-Lot...so the...Recreational Vehicle...Doesn't decide, to go on a "Trip" of "Its Own"...!!!...(to lol, or not to lol, that is the question)...................Tell "Grandpa", its "Easier then he Thinks"...just don't give Him a Beer, until He's "Finished, Washing His Hands"...!!!...lol...........................Thanks kindly, for, All of those..."Thumbs-Up"...my Friend......................Good Luck, with "Mr. Fuel Pump"...and be Careful Grandpa, as, I want to be able to Talk to You, and, Not about You.............Till next Time............You-All......Be (Extra) Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hi...thanks for all the advice. Very nice of you. And I'm sure we're going to be safe doing this replacement thingie. Thanks for the tips. With everything you wrote, you might consider writing as a career...or at least a past time. I've never seen so many quotation marks in one comment in my entire life. -) Take care and thanks again.
kathy loften Greetings kathy loften....Hmmmmmm...(I'm)...thinkin'...Thinkin'...&...still THINKIN'...Yep, that's what I seem to do...24/7/365 Dayz a year, and maybe, One more, (day), if-in a "Leap Year" is taken into consideration as well........................................I'll bet, that, those, what seemingly seem to be, oh, might I call them, an "Infinitesimal Amount of Jigsaw Puzzle Pieces", Float-in' around inside my...oh oh, now I'm stuck for Words...what's that Stuff, or "Thinkin' Centre/Center", that's inside my Head, that's located some-wherez between my two Hear'in Thingies...???...ummmmm...by-jove...I think I've got it (after all...lol)...(now my....that's it..."BRAIN"...is having some difficulty...communicatin' "Its" Signal, to my..."Keyboard's, Chicken Peckin' Fingers, and Thumbs too"...(and...with an embarrassed look on my face, I due-ly, do admit, that..."I CAN'T TYPE"...even though, I do recall, having a..."How to Type", on a Type-Writer, or now-ah-dayz, it's just called a "Key-Bored", and this "Newer-fangled-thing-ah-ma-Bob"...Doesn't even Need a..."Reel mounted, ink saturated, printing Ribbon"..."What-so-ever"...!!! (fancy that huh...lol)....................Hmmmm...I believe, that there..."How To Type (Properly & Efficiently), on, what is known, to most of Us these days, as a, now get this, a..."QWERTY"..Keyboard (lay-out System, as seen, on the more common Keyboards)...and also...(were You aware, that, by just using the "TOP ROW of Lettered KEYS, on Your KEYBOARD", that You are able to, Spell the Word..."TYPEWRITER"...???...how bout that Eh...lol)..........................Hey, wait a minute now, it appears that..."I have been Typing all along", and, (pausing in Diss-belief, I gather my Thoughts...hang on please, this may take a while)........................................................................................................."Hole-ee-Gwalk-ah-moe-lee"...I just realized, that my...what was it called again...oh yeah...my..."Brian"....happened to be in..."Auto-Pilot-Mode" (yet Again!)...and...I guess, that, "Subconsciously"...my "Chicken-Peckin' Fingers, and Thumbs too", kinda had a..."Mind of Their Own" (but, fear not, as my Self-manipulating, fingers, and thumbs too, still Don't Know)..."What a Wee-Gee Board Is" (or to Some, What..."It'"..."Is-Not")...oh, and..."never", and I repeat "NEVER", watch the..."Poltergeist Movie"...(Scary Sounds in the Back-Ground...!!!...lol)...when it's..."Dark Out & Ur all Alone"...(I'm guessin' You get the Picture...lol)...or, if-in You happen to be, like some other "Scare-dee-Cats" out there, You might be havin', oh, let's call it............."Night-Mare-City"...!!!...lol............................Oh darn, I should add this before I forget..................That there "Software Program", that I have, some-wherez around here, that I really should Learn to Type from, was Titled..."Mavis Beacon"...teaches..."Typing"...or something along those lines, I think....................................As You can see, I'm no "Professor", in any way, shape, or form, what-so-ever, as, I'm not all that sure, that, I even know, an..."Ad-Noun"...from a..."Pro-Verb"...and every time, that I'm...Subject (-ed), to, just about anything that involves an..."Object"...I always seem to always get...Predicate (-ed) in the End...!!! (see that, I really Do like to have a lotta "Fun", with "All" of those there..."Puzzle-Pieces"...that I've either been..."Blessed-with"...or, maybe even..."Cursed-with"...that, as I'm, quite sure)..."Really Do Reside", inside my.......ummmm....what was "It" called again....help me out here please..................................Ur too Late, I finally remembered, and it happens to be..."My Brain"...(and who knows, maybe, I'm being "Man-ip-U-Late-ed", by, some "Other-Life-Form", or maybe, the way in which, the "Ah-Roar-Ra-Bore-ee-al-us" (aka, Northern Lights)...rather "Symphonic Display"..of..."Rainbow Colored", and, like They say, and call Them..."Dancing Lights"..."Behave"...just might be Affecting me, in one way or another....???)...(might even be..."Something"...or, an..."Entity"...from another)..."Planet"...in a...far...Far-away..."Galaxy"...and I'm really Hope-in, that, that there "Galaxy", happens to be, the..."Milky-Way"...cuz...I really..."Do-Like"...My, Favorite Cold Beverage, and that happens to be......................................."2% Milk"...oh and, may I please have a Tall Glass of "It"..."On the Rocks" (the "Rocks", that are be-in referred to here, happen to be, Frozen "H2-Oh"...aka..."Ice Cubes"...lol)...oh and, "It", (the 2% Milk), must be workin'...cuz...I'm "Still Alive"...!!! (and still Here, to Torture You-All, with, my some-what "Abstract Form of Entertainment"...!!!...lol)................Well, prolly, time, to..."Wind-er-down"...but, please, hang in there...just a few more things to mention, before I head for..."Infinity and Beyond".............If You care to, You are most welcome, to Browse through, the Videos that are on my RUclips Channel, and, if You make it to my RUclips Channel Page...RockysRoadshow...once there, You should be seeing, a long & wide Picture, of a bunch of People, on a rather expansive beach, and, if You were to have a look-see, at the "Bottom Right Corner, of, that Beach Picture", You, hopefully, will See, that "Blogger/Icon Thingie", that is "Linked", to some of my Other "Ramblings", that I'm responsible for, some time ago.......................Oh, and, were You aware, that, I'm some-what of a "Poet" as well...??? (prolly, just another Blessing, or Curse, that makes me, who I am, I guess)...(oh oh, here we go again, the words "Cursive Writing", just popped into my head, and no, I'm not in the habit of Audibly Speaking Profanities on a regular basis...lol)...................................If and when...???....You happen to have a gander, at my RUclips Channel, that "Poem", that I not only "Wrote", but also, "Narrated" with my very own "Voice", is easily found, as its Video "Thumbnail Picture is All Blue", and the Title of it is........................"The Thermoquad (carburetor) Poem"...enjoy....................................The reason that I'm not using, prim and proper "Paragraphs", is for the very reason, that, if-in I try to leave a "Space", in between each and every Paragraph, there have been, more times then Not, where-by, those required "Spaces"..."Go Missing"...and the so called Paragraphs, get..."All Scrunched Together"..(well, some time ago, I was able to make some real purr-dee Paragraphs)....................................Oh yeah, those "Quotation Marks", that You were referring to, my use of, are really not, being used, in the Proper...Glammer, no, Grammar, Way, and, the Fancy Schmancy/Politically Acceptable Way, in which they are to be used, in a, shall we say, Literary sense, and some-what, being at, a, might be, University Level/Way/Manner as well, are one thing...but...the way that "I'm Using", those there "Quotation Marks"...are to be Compared to, as I see it (and Imagine it too...lol), is to be that, of Using, those there Quotation Marks, as, what I like to call..."Bedazzling Fishing Lures"....kinda like, having Me..."Use Some Bling"...in order, to bring Your "Un-Divided-Attention-to"....the..."Words or Phrases"...that, as I see it..."Should grab Ur Eye's, Unwavering Attention"...lol....................................Well, there You have it, just a small Sampling of, what I was either "Blessed" with, or "Cursed" with, and, I'll let You be the Judge of what-ever, that might, just be......................................Till next time...............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hello there , I have a fiat 1100 , 1983 petrol model . The fuel pump wasn't pumping fuel so the mechanic changed the diaphragm and then when we cranked the engine, the fuel pump began to pump fuel at such high force that the carburetor started to overflow literally like a river . Is there a fix for this problem?
Greetings Sugarfeet...You sure have an interesting car there....I did some research on your car, and, if it is Fuel Injected, then it may have "2" Electric Fuel Pumps!...One low pressure pump in the gas tank, and one high pressure fuel pump outside of the gas tank...If it has Fuel Injection of any type then you have to use Electric Pump/Pumps!...The "Mechanical" type of fuel pumps only put out less then 10 Pounds Per Square Inch (PSI), where-as, Fuel Injection Needs more Fuel Pressure!..(con't)
...Now, about testing the output of your fuel pump....No Smoking, No Sparks, and, have a Fire Extinguisher nearby!...With engine Not Running, the fuel line that goes from the fuel pump to the carburetor, has to be disconnected...then you have to hook up a hose to the output side of the fuel pump, and place it in a large jar, or bucket beside your car, and secure...then, have a helper (Person), start your engine (tell them to only start your engine when you say so!!!)....(con't)
Hello once again....15 to 20 minutes, you say....So many things, that it might be....Still have enough gas in the gas tank?....Try helping the Idle Speed with your foot on the gas pedal (just enough so it won't stall)....Your fuel pump might be on its way out alright....Try changing the Fuel Filter/Filters in your engine compartment, and/or carburetor first, that might help)....Also, you might have water/condensation in your gas tank....See if the filter/filters change helps....Take care...
Greetings...D W...….Thanks for watching...……..Well, my (use-tah have), slant 6, was 2 years older...….It was, a 1969...225...slant six, that was in that, good ole 1969, funky lookin' van, that had, a..."3 on the Tree"...lol...(as in, 3 speed manual transmission/with a clutch pedal, and, having the shifter, up by the steering wheel)...……..Damn, when I got it, it had a Bigger carburetor on it, and, Hooker headers too...!!!...…..Accelerated even better, once I changed, the whole rear axle carrier, when, it went from, about 2.73 there-abouts, up to, 3.55 rear end gear ratio...!!!...Wowsers…!!!...Super acceleration from a stop...but...the poor ole engine, was revving its guts out, if I went any more than, about..."double-nickels"...lol (55 miles per hour), on the freeway/highway...!!!...…….Ah yes...the good ole days (big sigh)...lol...….and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Sooo... Am I correct - if I were to gently *suck* on the inlet tube, or gently *blow* in the outlet tube, the valves should offer some resistance if the pump is working correctly?
Greetings...Don Emmerich.............Thanks for watching............."Warning"...!!!...Never Inhale Gasoline Fumes, or, Gasoline, in its Liquid state, cuz the stuff is Very "Toxic", and is probably, a Nasty, Cancer causing Carcinogen as well...!!!................Maybe, try Your Low...Air Pressure Test, with something along the lines, of, an empty Squeeze Bottle (or squeeze bulb), with some rubber hose or tubing, connected to it, that will also fit, onto the Pipes or Fittings, on the Fuel Pump, and, just use hand pressure, on the squeeze bottle, for the Positive Pressure Test, and then, for the Vacuum/Suction Test, then, shall we say..."Pre-Squeeze" (aka, Squish the Air out of the Squeeze Bottle)..."Before"...making the Connection, to the fuel pump's, pipe or fitting, then Release, Your hand-hold, so the Squeeze Bottle, does all of the work by itself...oh, and, do the Test Out-Doors, for safety's sake.................I guess, that, in theory, by doing the Test, of Fuel Pump's, one way (only) "Check Valves", then, at least You'll know, whether or not, they are Functioning somewhat...........Me, myself, well, I haven't done this "Check Valve" test, yet, but maybe, some day, I just might...???................Speaking of Mechanical Fuel Pumps & (one way) Check Valves...a few years ago, I installed, a Brand New/Brand Name Fuel Pump, on a V-8 Engine, and it seemed to be working Ok...for a while...then...Oh oh...the Engine Died, and the last, shall we say "Suspect", that I was thinkin' about, was, the Brand New (with only a few miles on it) mechanical Fuel Pump, that, I not so long ago, installed, and I said to myself...nah, can't be that Nice New (mechanical) Fuel Pump, that's causing the Fuel "Starvation", in the Carburetor's float bowl, but, then again...Could "it"...???...............So now, here's the Test, that I did (and usually do), for the mechanical, type of Fuel Pump, that bolts onto the Engine Block (usually)...............I have the Vehicle (in question), parked Outside...then, I remove the Fuel Line, from the Carburetor...then, I connect, a few feet of Hose, to that disconnected fuel line, and place that Extra length of hose, into a Catch Can/Bucket, that's on the ground, near one of the car's front fenders...........Then, have a Helper, "Crank" the engine over, and, if the Engine Starts or Does Not Start, I'll be Watching the Way, that the Gasoline Flows, out of the end of that, shall we say Extension Hose.................If the "Flow" of Gasoline, is nice-n-Strong & continuous, then, the Fuel Pump is probably Ok...............If the Gasoline "Flow", is Weak...intermittent...or just "Spits", a little bit, just like this..."Faulty"...Brand New/very Low Miles on "it"...mechanical Fuel Pump..."DID"...!!!...then..."There's Trouble in Pair-ah-Dice"...!!!...lol...oh, and also, before doing this Failing Test, and do-in, the...Point-the-Finger-Blame-Game...@ the Fuel Pump...."Make Damn Sure", that There "is"...Gasoline "in" the Gas Tank...!!!...lol...............I sure (at the time), did, "Suspect", that, at least, one of the (one way....only)..."Check Valves"...in this almost Brand New, mechanical Fuel was "Fubar" (aka, messed-up), and pretty much, kinda rendered, this particular mechanical Fuel Pump, "Almost" Useless...and I say "Almost", cuz, at least the Car (at night time, and not much traffic on the road), made its way home, under its own Steam (well actually, it was, the little bit of "Gasoline", that managed, to make its way, into the carb's float bowl), that allowed me to, shall we say "Nurse" (with fingers crossed), and having the Car, going quite slow, and get this, "it" made it, all the way "Home"...!!!...Yip-ee...!!!...and look Ma...No Towing Bill this time...!!!...lol................Then, there's a "Pressure" Test, that can be done, with a Low Pressure, Fuel (testing) Gauge, well, if You have one, that is...............For a V-8 Engine, I'm use to seeing, about 5 to 7 PSI/Pounds per square inch, there-abouts.................To make sure though, get ah-hold-of, the "Specification", for that "Exact" (mechanical) Fuel Pump, and Engine, etc...cuz, some Engines might need Less Fuel Pressure sometimes..............For most Carburetors, it's usually..."Under/less than"...10 PSI...oh and, don't get Too Low, or Fuel Starvation (in the carb's float bowl), it just might be....and......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Is there a special way to put it on? Is there a certain way the arm of the pump has to go in? I just replaced the fuel pump in my 63 coupe. Even with pitting a little gas in the carb, it didn't want to start. I even put gas in carb a second time. And its never done that before. Usually I would just put a little gas in carb and it would start right up. Have any ideas???? Thank you in Advance.... Dont want to take it back off just to put it in the same way as the first time
Greetings...Gabriel Martinez...…...Thanks for watching...…..If your mechanical type of fuel pump, has that long actuating lever, sticking out of it, then, you have to make sure, that, the flat side ("not" the U shaped/trough side), is making contact, with the eccentric (which is basically, a round metal piece, that is offset, to the camshaft's centerline), that, shall we say, "wobbles" up and down, whenever the camshaft is spinning, and, it is this wobbling motion, that makes the fuel pump's lever, go up and down, which in turn, causes the fuel pump's, pumping action...……Whenever I install, this type of fuel pump, I always make sure, to tilt the fuel pump's actuating lever, so the..."solid-flat side"...of the lever, ends up, making contact with, that eccentric, that I was mentioning earlier...…...If the fuel pump's lever, was installed properly, then, you should see, a "shine-ee" spot, on the solid side of the fuel pump's lever, where that metal eccentric was rubbing against it...…….Just look at your old fuel pump's lever, and you should be able to see a small area (wear spot) on it, where that eccentric, was rubbing on it...…….There are some fuel pumps, where you have to tilt them, quite a bit, so as, to make sure, that, the lever, gets installed, on the correct side of that eccentric, and sometimes, the fuel pump's main body, will only make full contact with the engine block, once the mounting bolts, get fully tightened down (just make sure, that, the fuel pump's lever, is on the "correct side" of the eccentric, or Ya might damage the fuel pump...!!!)………..Some Chevrolet/Chevy V-8 engines, might have a round metal rod, that gets inserted, before the fuel pump gets bolted on (no metal rod = no pumping, from the fuel pump...!!!)………..Good luck, and...…till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
If the original fuel pump arm was straight with only the curve at the end, but the new one looks like yours, does it matter? The old one barely worked somtimes, but then I got this one and put it on and it doesnt work at all. Took it off and put it on 5 times and don't know what to do.
Greetings...Vize_Iron.........In order to see what your fuel pump should look like, go over to Rockauto (car parts website)........Once you get there, just look up your vehicle's year, make, model, and engine size, then find on there, where there should be, (more then one) picture of your vehicle, engine's fuel pump........Then, compare your fuel pump's actuating arm, to the ones that you see on Rockauto's website.........Upon installation, make sure that, you put the fuel pump's actuating "Arm", onto the eccentric (wobbly diameter), on the "correct" side of the actuating arm (you might have to "tilt" the fuel pump a bit, before you bolt it down)........Look at your old/used fuel pump's actuating arm, for a worn/smooth, small area, where the eccentric was rubbing on it, in order to, be able to, install the actuating arm, on the correct side of, that, good ole eccentric........Good luck, and......Be safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings.........If it was the fuel pump causing a drop in mileage, I would think that it may be possible that your new fuel pump may be putting out too much pressure maybe?..........Check to see that your new fuel pump is rated at the correct pressure for your engine/vehicle, and that it's specifications are the same as the "Factory" installed fuel pump............Too much fuel pressure has been known to make a carburetor run on the rich side.
Hey Rocky I have a 83 tbird 302 block that I bought and it came with a electric fuel pump. Its not in the tank and I have probably replaced it like 5 Times. HOw can I convert it to mechanical. Thanks
...Garage door Open!!!...The engine should run for a few minutes with the gasoline that is in the float bowl, without any more being supplied by the fuel pump..You have to watch at how the fuel comes out of the hose (and into the jar/bucket), not only Pressure, but the amount (volume) as well...In about 30 seconds to 1 minute, you should get about 1 or 2 pints at least, and the fuel should be flowing strongly as well (not spitting)...Look for the Specs for yours...Careful...Take care, my Friend
Greetings...Rex O'Steen……….Thanks for watching...…...Even if, the fuel pump itself, is ok, then, there is usually a sock type of filter, that's on the end of the fuel line, that's inside of the gas tank, that might rarely get plugged up/dirty...…….Also, any and all, fuel filters, should be changed on a regular basis, in order to avoid any fuel starvation issues (seen that, been there, but didn't need a tow truck, at the time...lol)……….Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...a few years ago, I installed a brand new (top brand name) fuel pump, on an Oldsmobile engine, that was "faulty", right out of the box, that it came in...…...Worked, kinda ok, for a short time, and then, the engine would lose power, surge, then, almost quit completely...…….I figured that, one of its internal valves, malfunctioned/got stuck somewhat...……Before I took that new fuel pump back, and exchanged it, I put the old/original fuel pump, back onto the engine, and, it worked "Perfectly"...!!!...lol...……I though that, it would be a good idea, to install a new fuel pump, seeing as how, the old/original fuel pump, was very old, and had lotsa mile on it...…….Maybe it is true...???...as in..."they don't make 'em, like they used to"...!!!...lol...and...….till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow I took my mechanical pump for a 1970 Plymouth apart and it looks good. I sprayed the valves with carburetor cleaner and I think my problem is I did not tighten the two bolts to the block enough , as they were easy to remove. I have this bad habit of not tightening. I'm going to hook the pump up and try again. My thought is that the lack of tightness could have prevented the arm from completely moving, as there was a whimper of movement on the pressure tester. But I don't know, really, as the quality stuff and the fuel- I've not used ethanol, but I saw the term 'oxiginated' gas in a Hot Rod question, and maybe just having ethanol-free is not enough. My problem is my fault, as I don't start my car enough. I realize the younger generation is taking over. I'm 72, and glad to see you young guys taking care of your inheritance from the past.
...Ok, lets see if we can get your 302 running now...(with the old fuel pump that is on your engine)...Open Garage Door!...Fuel tank have gas in it?....It's time to "Prime" your carburetor with gasoline to get the engine to start, so the fuel pump will pump really fast (as opposed to just cranking the engine with the starter motor)....With engine Not Running, remove the top (lid) of the air cleaner that is on your carburetor...then, pour (or squirt) a small amount (about an ounce) of....(con't)
Hi @RockysRoadshow , i have a Cadillac Deville 1978, i am asking this question so may be you or an other youtuber can light me . For now a week my car is stoping when going down hill, i cant start it when going up hill also and when i press to much on the gaz pedal when on flat the engine gently stops. I am wondering if it's the fuel pump ( that i have not been able to locate on my car, i am having struggle to translate the manual from english to french and i dont understand all the technical words. ) or if it comes from the carburetor. When on a flat ground the car would start though and keep on running . Thanks a lot if you or anyone can give me any advice that would be really appreciated. I wish you all the best and thanks again for your great videos !!!
Greetings..charles derenne…………Thanks for the nice comment, and, thanks for watching...…….To me, it kinda sounds like, a fuel starvation problem, that's causing your engine's, not running, so well, problem...…….When was the last time, that, the..."Fuel Filters"...were changed...???...as there are probably two of them, as in, the larger one, might be found near the fuel pump, while the other smaller one, will probably be, just inside of, or, very close to, the carburetor...…….Might be...a clogged/plugged up fuel filter, or filters, as the case may be...a weak fuel pump...or, dirty jets or passage ways, inside of the carburetor, and rarely, it might also be, a lot of crud, that's plugging up the filter, that's on the end of the pickup pipe/tubing, that sucks up the gasoline, that's inside of the gas tank...…….Sometimes, it can be exhaust system related as well, as in, something, that is causing an exhaust flow "restriction", in the vehicle's exhaust system...……..A clogged up (restricted) catalytic converter, muffler, or resonator, can prevent the free flowing of exhaust gas, through the exhaust system, which will reduce power and performance, if it's not too bad, while something, like, an almost, totally plugged up, catalytic converter, can almost cripple an engine, so much so, that, Ya might not, even, make it through the intersection at all...!!!...yikes...……If it's not fuel related (which I doubt), then, Ya probably have the HEI (High Energy Ignition) Distributor (with, the Large size distributor cap on it), which, might, have to be checked out as well, possibly...…….Good luck, and......till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow i brought it to the shop , and it was in did as you just said the fuel filter that was well plugged with dirty things. They changed the sparks as well that were oily. Every when would you recommend to change the fuel filter just so i know and i will did it myself also, i have difficulties to locate its by the carburetor. thanks a lot for your message, you are a boss, happy belated thanksgiving.
Greetings...charles derenne………….Thanks for your good wishes, my Friend........If you have the little car owners manual, that came with your car, when it was brand new, then, you might find, the amount of time (in months or years), and/or, the mileage/kilometer intervals, as to when, things like filters, need to be changed, as well as, many other maintenance things that should be done, so, your car will have the best chance, at running very good, almost, all of the time...…….For something like a fuel filter, then, I usually change it, about, every 2 years, or, 24,000 miles (40,000 kilometers), whichever comes first...…….If your car, has a "Rochester" carburetor, then, it will usually have a small fuel filter, that is just inside of, the front of the carburetor, and, some are about 1 inch long, while others, are about 2 inches long, and both of them, are about 3/4 of an inch in diameter...…….There is usually a very "thin"..."seal or washer", that might be made out of plastic, or, gasket like material, and, if it gets damaged at all, while trying to replace the little fuel filter, that is inside of, the front of a Rochester carburetor, then, "gasoline", will probably start..."leaking"...from the front of the carburetor...!!!...……..Try to get a new seal (gasket)…"before"...trying to remove that little fuel filter, from the carburetor, just in case.........Sometimes, the nut (fitting), gets really stuck, to the (usually) metal fuel line (tubing), so, use penetrating oil, and go very easy, when trying to loosen that nut, or, sometimes, that metal fuel line (pipe), gets twisted, and damaged...!!!.........Good luck, and...…..till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I have a 1959 fuel pump with no pressure line / vacuum coming out from the top of it where there's two knobs only a fuel Outlet in a fuel Outlet out to the carburetor would I need that vacuum and my car is also stalling shuttering and I hit the gas pedal all the way down and it barely accelerates
Greetings...Cali Sav.........Thanks for watching........Well, I never worked on your 1959 type of fuel pump before........Some of them, being that old, might have also had a vacuum chamber, maybe for running the vacuum operated windshield wipers, maybe?.........If there are a number of bolts or screws, that you can easily see, that hold the different sections together, then, it's possible, that the fuel pump can be rebuilt, providing that, the new, needed parts are still available, as in, diaphragm/s, gaskets, etc. ........The website Rockauto (online parts store), might have, a new or remanufactured fuel pump for your vehicle, and possibly, maybe even some individual parts for your 1959 fuel pump as well, so, check them out if you're interested at all.........You can also, look on some website "Forums", for your exact vehicle, where you can ask some of those very smart and experienced people, a question, about, just about any topic, that pertains to your exact vehicle........As for your, not-so-good-running engine, then, it might be a vacuum leak, at the fuel pump or elsewhere, or maybe, it just might be, a split/leaking, or disconnected vacuum hose...???........or maybe, the carburetor is malfunctioning...air filter clean...???...fuel filter clean...???.........Has the ignition system been tuned up recently...???........Good luck, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Brandy F............You're welcome, and, thanks for watching...........I'm glad, that you got..."this"...b-cuz, I'm guessin', that, I actually provided some useful information, in this video of mine, that would be of some help to others, like yourself, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I am having a fuel delivery problem myself. I have a Ford 302 with a four barrel carb. It sat in storage for about three months and I can't get any gas into the carb. There is no gas in the filter at all. What's the best way to test the fuel pump and the line itself?
Greetings.....Baradonna………..Thanks for watching...…….Well, if the carburetor, happens to be a Rochester carburetor, then, the little fuel filter (some are 1 inch long, and, some are 2 inches long, there-abouts), that fits into the carburetor itself, will usually have, a, shall we say..."anti-flow-back"...valve (round shaped, rubber-like flap), that's on one end of, that little fuel filter, that, as I see it, will prevent the gasoline, from flowing away, and down, from the carburetor, and hopefully, keeping the fuel line, full of gasoline, when the engine is not running...…….The mechanical type of fuel pump has two valves, inside of it, as in, one inlet valve, and, one outlet valve...…….As long as, one of those valves is closed, then, the gasoline, should stay in the fuel line, for quite a bit of time, I would think...…..If a carbureted engine..."has not"...been running, for, about a week or more, then, the gasoline, that was in the carburetor's float bowl, or bowls, as the case may be, will usually evaporate some-what (because of, the engine, remaining hot, after shut-down, for quite some time)……….So then, now the carburetor's float bowl/s are empty (no gasoline at all), and, the engine gets cranked over and over, until, that fuel pump, pumps enough gasoline, into the carburetor's float bowl/s, so the engine has enough gasoline, so it can start and run again...…….The Mechanical type of fuel pump, pumps gasoline, quite slowly, when the engine is only being cranked over, by the (electrical) starter motor, because of the low engine RPM's (Revolutions Per Minute), during engine cranking (as in, trying to start)………..If you are experiencing, a really long, cranking/engine starting time, then, try this...…….Try starting your vehicle, the..."very next day"...after, the engine was running last, and, if everything works, as good as it should be doing, then, the engine should start up..."very quickly"...!!!...…and......till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
if i thermo wrap my mechanical fuel pump due to it being on the side of the block and quarter inch from lower radiator hose will it help with vapor lock ?
Hi. I have a 78 Ford f150 351m. My gas tank filter is plugged up. I had replaced the fuel pump during diagnosis. I had it running pulling fuel from a gas can on the ground. I moved and had it towed recently. I'm trying to get it in the garage before snow falls but I can't get it started. The fuel pump isn't pumping fuel. There isn't much play in how it mounts to the block. Is my shaft missing the lever? Or is it too work to actuate the lever?? Thank you!
Greetings..Sean Fuhrman.........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching.........Well, if I was in the situation, that you described, then, here's what I would probably do, along with, a bit more information, added in as well...........Having the Vehicle outside, and away from any "open flame", such as a pilot light, in a furnace, or what-ever, or else "Boom"...!!!...it might be, and I hope not..........I would then, "disconnect" the "fuel line", from the gas tank side of the fuel pump...then...I would grab a rubber hose, oh, about 4 feet long, and stick it onto that fuel line, that was just "disconnected"...then..."remove" the "gas cap", so the gas tank can breathe freely...then...I would blow into that rubber hose, with some really strong lung pressure (Never, Ever, "Inhale", Gasoline Fumes or Gasoline, because that, in itself, can become "Deadly"...!!!), and, by doing so, I could then tell, whether or not, there is/was, a "Blockage", of any sort, which also includes, that (if present), the (possibly, plugged-up...???) "Filter", that's on the end of the pickup/fuel line, that's "inside" the gas tank (if "not" plugged-up, I can usually blow through, into the gas tank)..........If...???...there was some sort of "blockage", then, I'd say, that, there's a pretty good chance, that, my "strong", high air pressure, capable "lungs", would probably "dislodge", a fair amount of "crud", that was (theoretically), stuck onto, the outside, of that, "inside-the-gas-tank") fuel "Filter" (oh, and, musn't forget, to...keep my fingers crossed...!!!...lol)...........Gotta "make sure", that, the "correct" side of the fuel pump's "Lever", is rubbing against the "eccentric" (that be, a round diameter, that's off-set, to the center line of the camshaft's centerline, that results, in a "wobble", that makes the "Lever" on the fuel pump, go..UP...down...UP...down...which in turn, makes the fuel pump, well..."Pump"...if you will...lol)..............If Ya still have the "Old" fuel pump, you'll probably be seeing a "Shine-ee" spot on the actuating "Lever", where it was rubbing on the "Eccentric", and, Ya gotta make sure, that, the "New" fuel pump's "Lever"..."Is Not"..."rubbing", on the, shall we say..."Open U" or "Open/Trough side" of the Lever, because the fuel pump won't work right, and hopefully, no damage will result, from installing it "wrong"...............The Lever's "Spring", is usually Very "Strong", so, Ya just gotta make sure, that, Ya, "Tilt/Angle" the fuel pump's "Lever", so the "Full Metal" side of said Lever, ends up "making contact" with the "eccentric"..."Before"...!!!...Ya "tighten", the fuel pump's mounting..."Bolts or Nuts"...as the case may be............You can also try, putting some fuel system cleaner, in the gas tank, because, it should help soften up the "crud", that might be stuck onto the "filter" in the gas tank, and, also make sure, that, Ya have at least 2 gallons of gasoline in the gas tank, oh and, if Ya use some Cleaner, then, shake the "pick-em-up-truck" (like it was in a wind storm), as in...Up & Down (on the rear bumper)...and from...Side to Side...as well, which should create, a, shall we say, "Sloshing" action, of the gasoline/cleaner, that's, presumably in the gas tank, which, on a good day, might help to clean things up-ah-bit, hopefully, that is...........Are all of the "other" Fuel "Filters" (if any)..."clean-enough"...as well...??? (oh, and, by the way...todays word, is..."Blockage"...lol)...........To help "git-er-Started", I have a small squirt bottle, with a few ounces of gasoline in it...then...I "Prime" the carburetor (if there is one), by doing the following..........With the engine "cold", and "not running", I remove the Air Cleaner "Lid" (or what-ever)...then...I hold the "Choke Plate" (flap) open, with one hand, while I "squirt", a couple of tablespoons of gasoline, into each of the Primary (front?) throttle bores...then...re-install the air cleaner's "Lid", just in case the engine "backfires"...........If it doesn't keep running on the first try, then, try & try again (but can only be done, until the Battery says so...lol), oh, and, "don't crank" the engine's "starter motor", for very long, and also, give it a "rest/cool-down", between "starting attempts", or, Ya might "cook" the starter motor...!!!............If there's anything else, just give me a shout (or what-ever)..........Good luck, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
My 83 CJ-7 sits about 1 month between the times I crank it. I hate the time I have to let the starter turn the engine over. Could I install a 12 volt electric pump right prior to the mechanical pump. Would the mechanical pump allow the electric pump to push gas through it? I am told the electric pump will allow the mechanical pump to pull gas through the it. I only want to press a spring loaded switch and prime the carb so I don't have to work my starter so hard.
John Godwin Greetings John Godwin....Thanks for Your comment/question, and for watching too..............................................If it happens to be, the Longer then wanted...Cranking of Your engines Starter Motor...that has You concerned, then, there happens to be, a much more "Simple", and, much "Cheaper" way, to address, the, shall we say, "Over-Use", of Your engine's "Starter Motor"...........................................Here's the deal..........The reason that it takes so much Starter Motor "Cranking" time, is usually attributed to the "Evaporation" (or, maybe even a Leak?), of the Gasoline, that was in Your Carburetor's "Float Bowl", usually due to, having that poor ole Carburetor, sitting on Top of, or in near proximity, to a quite Hot Engine, that, when, shut down, still kept the engine compartment, nice-n-toasty, for quite some time, until all of that engine Heat, finally became, somewhat Equal, to the ambient Temperature, that Your Vehicle was parked in..............................................Now then, here's the "Cheap & Simple" way, to get Your Vehicle's Engine, Started, without prematurely, wearing out, Your engine's Starter Motor, as well as, helping to prevent, the running down, of Your vehicle's Battery, at the very same time..................................................All You need, is a "Small Squirt Bottle", that can contain a few Ounces (aka, small quantity), preferably, with a Lid or Cap on it, with some Gasoline in it...........then...........with the "Engine...Cold, and Not Running"...remove the Air Cleaner's Housing Lid, and Squirt, about a Table-Spoon or Two, of Gasoline...Into Each of the Primary Throttle Bores (Your Carburetor might have 1 or 2 primary throttle bores), while holding the "Choke Plate Open", with Your other Hand..............then.............replace Your Air Cleaner's Housing Lid, and Secure it in place (tighten the Wing-Nut maybe?)...........then..........Your Engine should Start...........if it Stalls, You can either, keep Cranking the Starter Motor...........or..........."Re-Prime" the Carburetor with the Squirt Bottle again, and Secure that Air Cleaner Housing Lid, once again, and hopefully, Your Engine will Stay Running.......................................................If You can see some Float Bowl "Vents", sticking up, on top of Your Carburetor, You can also, try to Fill the/those "Vents", to some-what "Fill the Float Bowl/Bowls with Gasoline, as the case may be, with again I say..."Engine Cold, and Not Running...!!!......................................................Also, it would be a very good idea, to have a Fire Extinguisher with-in reach...just in case...!!!..........................................In the event, that You still want to Install an "Electric Fuel Pump" in Your Vehicle's Fuel (system) Line, there are a number of things, to be aware of.......................................................First off, You'll have to make sure, that Your "Mechanical Fuel Pump" will not be a "Restriction to Gasoline Flow".........................................................The theoretical "Electric Fuel Pump", that You're considering..."Must Not", have..."Too Much (High) Fuel Pressure"...or it will be making Your Carburetor's "Float Bowl"...behave, just like a "Mini-Waterfall", only, instead of Water, it will be "Gasoline", Spilling out of the Top of Your Carburetor, due to the..."Much Too High Fuel Pressure"...that will, more then likely, be "Over-Powering", the Needle and Seat Assembly, inside Your Carburetor...!!!.................................................Also, the "Electric Fuel Pump", has to be able to "Allow Gasoline Flow", when it is not being fed, any Electricity as well...!!!...................................................I'm thinkin', that Your CJ-7, Engine's Fuel Pump, is probably, only putting out, oh, about, 4 to maybe 7 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch) Maximum, Fuel Pressure, so, make sure, that You "Verify" Your Engine's "Factory Installed Fuel Pump's"..."Fuel Pressure"...!!!......................................................Then, due to the, as I see it, the amount of "Crud/Debris", that's usually hiding "Inside the Gas Tank", especially, that of an older vehicle, I would like to see, a "Fuel Filter" installed..."Before" any Fuel Pump, or, it could become, quite the Problem...!!!.....................................................Then..."Electrical Safety" has to be considered as well...!!!.........................There, as I see it, should be an "Electrical Relay, and Fuse/Breaker"...in the Electrical "Circuit", that is "Supplying", the needed Voltage and Amperage, that the "Theoretical/Hypothetical"...Electric Fuel Pump requires, to make it...do its thing.....................................................As I see it, if a "Carburetor Equipped" Engine, was Started and Run..."Every Single Day"...then, barring any abnormalities...that..."Carburetor Equipped Engine"...should..."Fire Right Up"...at the first turn, of the Ignition Key...!!!....................................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...No Gasoline in the Carburetor's Float Bowl, is like tryin' to drink more Beer out of a "Can...Bottle...or Glass"...when it's..."Bone Dry-n-Empty"...!!!...lol................................................You, my Friend, seem to have, quite a few "Options", placed before You..............................................................Now, it's all up to You, so please..."Choose Wisely"...lol.............................................To avoid having a Camshaft Lobe or Two...get Destroyed, or, maybe having an Engine Seal go Dry, and start leaking Motor Oil...always remember, the "More Often", a Vehicle's Engine is Run, the Better, as, the Only Way, that the "Inside" of an Engine gets "Lubricated", is when the Engine is "Running"...!!!..............................................Engine "Exhaust Fumes" are "Deadly", so, make sure, that You have plenty of Fresh Air and Ventilation, around Your Vehicle, when-ever the "Engine is Running"...!!!..................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Very good description. You are correct. I have my jeep at a MTN home that I only get to once a month. By the time I get there the gas is all out of the Carb. I was shooting starter fluid in the carb to crank it but since it was water based the carb rusted on me and I had to get it remanufactured. I don't want to do that again. Ha Ha.... I am scared to have that starter run for long periods of time since the fly wheel teeth are not the best and over time my starter teeth will wear down. Since I only drive it about 1 mile once a month the starter should last a long time if I don't over start it. My wife doesn't like the idea of pouring gas in the carb. She would like the idea of a primer button. Less man work for her if she had to crank it for the first time to drive me off the MTN to the emergency room or something. This 12 volt electric pump would prime the carb then after the engine started the new mechanical pump would run as it was built to. The electric pump is 3 to 6 PSI. My 1983 jeep is old so I have recently replaced all my rubber fuel lines and tank and guage indicator in the tank and fuel pump and fuel filter so I should have little to no rust or junk in the system. If I were to install the electric pump prior to the mechanical pump pushing 3 to 6 psi into the mechanical pump do you think the fuel would flow out of the mechanical pump to the Carb? Thanks for your WISDOM. :-)
John Godwin Greetings John Godwin....You are welcome, for, what You referred to, as...my wisdom........................Call it what You will, (and I thank You, for Your very kind, choice of words), but, just about everything, pertaining to Cars, Trucks, and just about anything that is mechanical in nature, and somewhat tangible as well, has, shall we say, grabbed my interest, attention, and curiosity as well, and away I go, exploring, checking-out, reading about, tinkering with, and, last but not least, by me, doing the repairs and adjustments, on just about anything, that I manage to get my hands on, I do save an abundance of money, by doin' it myself (and probably learn quite a bit, at the very same time!...lol)....................................................Hmmmm...still more options, to maybe consider..............................................You could just, "Prime" the Carburetor, with the gasoline squirt bottle..."One Time"...upon Your arrival, at Your Home in the Mountains, then, as I see it, as long as You started Your Vehicle, every other day, there probably wouldn't be the need, to "re-prime" the carburetor, because, I'm quite sure that, Your Carburetor's Float Bowl, will have enough gasoline in it, to have it..."Start" right up, at the turn of Your ignition key..............................................I've used the, "Prime the Carburetor, with the Gasoline Squirt Bottle", for many, Many Years, and, it has never Failed me, as long as the Engine was in good running order to begin with...............................................Just remember to Replace and Secure the Air Cleaner's Housing Lid, right after You Prime the Carburetor with Gasoline....................................................Also, are You using the..."Recommended Starting Procedure"...that You should see, in Your..."Vehicle's Owners Manual"...???.........................................................As, in most cases, when dealing with Starting most Carburetor equipped Engines, the Actual Starting Procedure, can be quite Different, depending on, if the Engine is being..."Cold Started"...or..."Warm Started"...and the..."Type of Carburetor Choke Mechanism"...that is engineered/installed on, the Carburetor in question"..................................................If the additional "Electric Fuel Pump's"..Newly...."Wired-in, Electrical Circuit"..."Is Not"..."Engineered and Installed"..."100% Correct"...and..."Inspected by a Qualified/Certified Technician", as I see it, You might (literally) be..."Playing with Fire"...!!!..............................................Sure, You might be thinkin', that I'm being a bit paranoid..but...have You ever seen a..."Vehicle go up in Flames"...???................That my Friend..."Is Not"...something, that I'd wish on Anyone...............................................If You are still contemplating..."Modifying"...Your Vehicle, with that..."Additional Electric Fuel Pump"..."Make Sure"...that, You have..."Any and All"..."Modifications"...to Your Vehicle..."Inspected"...by a..."Qualified Technician"..."Because I Care"...and..."It's the Right Thing to Do"...and also..."Breaking any Laws"...in any..."Way, Shape or Form"...is something that..."Just Ain't Right"...and..."Has Repercussions"...to say the least.............................................For Safety's Sake, have it done, by a "Professional"............................................I hope, all goes well.....................................................Be "Safe", take care, and have a good one.
Hello; when the fuel pumps are bad do they also make a noise? have a 1975 F150 and just placed a new fuel pump and added two filters due to some left over dirt from the tank one before the carb and the other before the pump; but!!!! for some particular reason gas is not passing thru; have no idea. Just bought 4 days ago another fuel.pump and besides making a loud clunk noise its sucking gas intermittently? Any sugestions maybe besides pulling down the gas tank again????
Greetings...Jimmy T............Thanks for watching............Well, I've never had a Mechanical type of Fuel Pump, make any noise, that I was able to hear, maybe, because of the noise, that, the running engine, and/or, the starter motor made, while cranking the engine over, that, would have, probably been louder, than any noise, that the (mechanical, type of) fuel, was able to produce.............It's very rare, to have a faulty, brand new (mechanical, type of) fuel pump, as, I've only had "1" faulty/defective, brand new (top brand name, mechanical, type of) fuel pump, out of all, of the fuel pumps, that, I've ever replaced.............That "Clunk" noise, that you heard, might be due to the following............Wrong fuel pump, for your "Exact" vehicle and engine...or...the fuel pump's actuating "Lever", got installed on the Wrong side of the "Eccentric" (that be, a, 2-to-3 inch round/diameter, that is on the camshaft, that is also offset, to the camshaft's center-line, which, kinda wobbles up and down, when the camshaft is spinning, and is responsible for, making the fuel pump's Lever, go up and down, causing the, shall we say, pumping action)...or...the Eccentric, might be damaged, or maybe, kinda slipping, if it happens to be the bolt-on type, and maybe, not turning at the same RPM's as the camshaft is...???.............Here's what I usually do, when I install, a new (mechanical, type of) fuel pump............I take the (already removed) Old fuel pump, and put it Beside the New one, to make sure, that, the two of them, "Match" each other, as in, the actuating Lever's, "Length and Bends" (if any, that is), and I do this, while looking downwards, from the Top, as well as, from the Side view, to make damn sure, that, the actuating Lever, is, a, shall we say, Perfect "Match" (or maybe, if not, some not wanted Damage can occur, if the wrong shape, and/or, length of actuating Lever, happens to get Forced, way too much, by the spinning Eccentric, that's on the camshaft...!!!)............Before installing the fuel pump, I usually stick a fairly long length, of, flexible hose (rubber, or neoprene/fish aquarium stuff), onto, the fuel line, that leads to the gas tank...then...I remove the gas cap (cuz, even the good ole vented, type of gas cap, needs a few PSI/pounds of pressure, to make-em open up)...then...I Blow on that added Hose ("Never", inhale/suck on the hose, cuz, gasoline, or, gasoline fumes are "Deadly"...!!!), oh, and, have lots of fresh air/ventilation, around the vehicle, and, "No" sparks or flames of any kind, what-so-ever, or, "Boom"...!!!.............This, "Able to Free-ly", blow thru to the gas tank, is telling me, that, there is, "Not a Blockage", holding things up............There's usually, an, "in-the-gas-tank", pre-Filter (sometimes, called a Sock, which is usually, a hollow, fine screen/tube-like shaped thing, sometimes, which might be, a kind-of nylon material, that might resemble, a very "fine" mesh/house screen door, type of thing, or maybe, a sponge-like/solid, possibly), that's usually attached, to the end of the fuel line, inside of the gas tank, so, larger particles of rust, crud, etc., don't make their way, into the fuel pump.............Also, if there happens to be a Filter, of some type, that is in/on the carburetor itself (as in, some of the Fords, used to have, a fairly long, metal, screw-into-the-carburetor-body, type of fuel filter, and yes, I did have one of these critters, plug up solid on me, some time ago...!!!...lol).............To Test, the fuel output flow, I have the fuel pump installed on the engine, and, the fuel line from the gas tank, connected to the fuel pump...then...I attach, a, quite long, flexible hose, to the Output side of the fuel pump, and have that long/flexible hose, going over the fender, and, into a bucket or pail, so I can actually See, how good, the, shall we say, gasoline Flow-rate is (if any, that is...???)...and...(can be observed, cranking with the starter motor, or, with the engine running, if in fact, the engine starts, and runs on any gasoline, that's still left in the carburetor's float bowl, well, until it's empty, that is), oh, and, remember now, lots of fresh air/ventilation, and, No sparks or flames...or...Boom...!!!..............Also, if ever trying to remove the "Ring", that secures the fuel pickup/fuel gauge sending unit, that goes into that hole/opening, in the gas tank, to Always Use a "Brass" Rod or Punch, with the hammer, or what-ever, to avoid creating any "Sparks", anywhere near the gasoline, or, gasoline fumes, that are in the gas tank...!!! (Never use a Steel Rod or Punch...!!!)...and also, have a Fire Extinguisher handy, as well as, do it Outside, if Ya can, to avoid, possibly, Burning the house or garage down...!!!...and, I hope not...........Have a look at some pictures on the internet, or, pictures, that, some of the online automotive parts stores have, for your "Exact" vehicle and engine, that way, you'll probably be able to see what all of the parts look like, some-what............So, Make sure, that you have the "Exact/Correct" fuel pump for your Pick-em-up-Truck, or there's gonna be, Trouble-in-pair-ah-dice (so to speak)............Once you have checked out, what I was sayin', just above, and, you have success or other-wise, you can let me know, how you made out, well, if you care to, that is.............Good luck, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...kate lafrance………Thanks for watching...…...Well now, please, be so kind, as to, elaborate on, the words that you posted, in your comment, thanks, and......till next time...…Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
im a do it yourselfer and iv got a 75 lincoln with a 460 big block 3 ports on the fuel pump the shaft that connects to the motor dosnt seem to have a rod that goes on top iv herd from a friend that all u do is shove it in and go the pump i got is supposed to be better then the standard but the shaft goin in is strait not curved is that going to be a problem cause i dont want to force it in iv got it under the crank shaft but im real leery cause of the tension ur thoughts good sir oh and besides the obvious it seems smaller in width and design then the standard the guy i bought it from said itll pull in more fuel
jacc boss Greetings jacc boss....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/questions as well................................That "Rod" that You were referring to, might it be, that, You are thinking of a Chevy (Chevrolet), V-8 Engine's Fuel Pump, where that "Rod", that we are talkin' about, gets placed in the Chevy V-8's Engine Block, Before the Fuel Pump gets Bolted-On perhaps...???..............................As far as I understand it, Your 460 Cubic Inch (Displacement), V-8 Lincoln Engine, probably has, what is referred to, as a "Mechanical-Type of Fuel Pump"..."Eccentric"...that works, pretty much like a Camshaft Lobe works, only, this "Eccentric", is Round (shaped), and is Installed "Off-Center", to the Camshaft's Center-Line, which makes this "Eccentric", work, pretty much the same way, that a Camshaft Lobe does, which, in essence, is to, just make things go..."Up and Down"...so to speak...lol.......................................When it comes to, "Re and Re-ing" (Removing and Replacing), an Old, or Faulty, Mechanical, type of Fuel Pump, on a Stock/Factory, Un-Modified Engine, I always make sure, that the "New" Fuel Pump, that is to be Installed, is One, that is recommended by the Factory/Manufacturer, of that particular Vehicle and Exact Engine, and, any Fuel Pump that I Purchase/Buy and Install, is always Made, by "Reputable"..."Major Brand"..."Manufacturer"...to insure, that I have a much better chance, at having that "New" Fuel Pump..."Fit and Operate Correctly"...and..."Not Damage the Engine, or, the New Fuel Pump"..."In Any Way...What-So-Ever"...!!!...................................I'm hearin'..."Alarm Bells"...go-in off, just hearing, about how You were sayin', that, the, shall we say..."Lever/Arm"...on that Fuel Pump, that You are thinkin' of Installing..."Does Not Match Exactly"...the..."Original Lincoln/Factory/Manufacturers"...Fuel Pump..."Lever/Arm''s"..."Shape/Length/Width/Bend/s"...and to me, it's kinda like..."Gambling"...and most times..."The House" (Gambling Establishment) "Usually Wins"...and...You (and I)..."Lose"...lol......................................There is a "Wear Pattern", that You should be able to see, on the Fuel Pump's "Lever/Arm, that was in Your 460 Engine, and, it is usually showing up, as a "Shine-ee Silver Color", and, that should have a "Matching", Smooth Shine-ee..."Ring"...showing on the "Eccentric", if the Fuel Pump was not installed, and, You were able to look into the "Cavity", where the Fuel Pump's Lever/Arm goes into, with a Flash-Light, possibly...................................If, and I say if, that Fuel Pump, with the Lever/Arm, that "Does Not Exactly Match the Factory Original One", can, as I see it, do at least "2-Things"..................................One is where, that "Not Matching Lever/Arm"..."Does Not Move the Fuel Pump's Diaphragm Enough"...and might cause..."Low Fuel Pressure and Low Fuel Volume"...as well......................................If, the Not Exactly Matching...Lever Arm...comes to a "Stop", and the..."Eccentric"...tries to..."Force"...that Lever Arm, past its "Range of Travel"...there, very well, might be, some rather "Expensive Damage", both, to the Engine, and maybe, to the Fuel Pump as well, as a Result of, just that...!!!...and, I hope not....................................Here's one for Ya.............See if that "Guy", will give You, in "Writing", an "Unconditional Guarantee", that, "if", that Fuel Pump, that He Recommends, for You to Install, on Your 460 Cubic Inch V-8 Engine..."Causes Any Damage, What-so-Ever"...to Your Engine, oh and, that Fuel Pump, that He's tryin', to get You to Install, on Your Engine as well...??? (Gee, I wonder what the odds of that, just might be...???...lol)...............................The Original Equipment/Factory/Manufacturer's "Fuel Pump", was "Designed and Engineered"..."Specifically"...for Your Engine, while it is in a "Stock and Un-Modified", shall we say, "State of Tune", and, things may very well Change, once the Engine in question, gets "Up-Graded", with...."Lots of Go Fast Parts"...which, just might require, a more, shall we say..."Beef-ee Fuel Pump"...that might, just be needed, to..."Feed-that-Really-Thirst-ee-Gas-Guzz-lin-Very Powerful-Newly-Modified-Engine"...!!!...lol........................................So then, there You have it, well, for now, that is.................................If You have any further, concerns or questions, at all, just leave a comment/question or two, under any of my RUclips Videos, and, I'll do what I can, to help You out...............Till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
That's great into for any and all dyi gearheads! As far i know all chevy engines use a actuation rod to operate the fuel pump(the chevy inline4's I'm not 100% sure on). Now a question, on mopars how is the fuel pump activated?
Chris Gropp Greetings Chris Gropp....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/question as well................Mopars (Motor-Parts, I think?...be-in, Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, etc.), and many, of the Other, Older Engine Makes, in North America, as well, will probably have, what is known, as a..."Fuel Pump Eccentric"... that Actuates/Moves, the Mechanical type of Fuel Pump's, "Arm/Lever" that, for the most part, gets "Bolted", onto the Engine's "Camshaft", which Rotates at 1/2 the Revolutions, that the Engine's Crankshaft, Spins/Rotates at, due to the, Timing Chain's, 2 Sprockets, 2 to 1 Reduction Ratio (aka, 2 Revolutions of the Crankshaft, equals, 1 Revolution of the Camshaft)..........................This Eccentric, is actually a "Round Diameter", that is "Offset", in Relation, to the Camshaft's "Center-line" (from, end to end), that will make, the "Eccentric", shall we say, "Wobble", Up and Down, when-ever the Camshaft, that it's Bolted to, Spins/Revolves...................When this "Eccentric" Rotates, and Wobbles (goes Up and Down), it is this Motion, when in Contact with, the Mechanical Fuel Pump's "Arm/Lever", that will make the Mechanical Fuel Pump...well...Pump...!!!...lol..............Just type in...Fuel Pump Eccentric...into Your Browser/Internet...Search Box...and...select...Images or Pictures...and, there should be lots, did I say LOTS of Pictures, of the (Mechanical, type of) Fuel Pump..."Eccentric"...for You to have a look-see at..........................Till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Jonah Haynes..........Thanks for watching...........Well, about the only engine, that I can think of, that actually had a "push rod", that made contact with, and moved the mechanical type of fuel pump's actuating "lever" (or arm, if you will), would be, a good ole Chevy (Chevrolet) V-8 Engine, otherwise, there wasn't a "push rod" at all, in any of the other engines that I worked on (most being, a Chevy, Ford, Dodge, or AMC/American Motors engine)...........I be thinkin', that, if your engine, actually is a "Chevy" V-8, then, about the only way, that I can imagine, that, the "push rod" is not making contact with the fuel pump's actuating lever, is that, the "push rod"..."was not"...installed in the engine block at all/in the first place...!!!............Some folks, might coat a "push rod" (for a Chevy V-8), with some grease, so it would stay-put, and not slide out, before the fuel pump gets installed/bolted to the engine block, as I recall...........All of the other engines, that I worked on (not a Chevy V-8, or maybe, that Mazda rotary engine, that I once messed with), would usually have, the fuel pump's actuating "lever", making direct contact, with an "eccentric" (that be, a round diameter, that was offset to the camshaft's centerline), that would wobble, causing the fuel pump's lever, to go...UP...down...UP...down...when-ever the engine was running, or being cranked/started..........In the case of a Chevy V-8 engine, where I (hypothetically), wanted to know, whether or not, a "push rod", was actually "hiding" inside the engine block (or not), then, I'd probably do a very basic, fuel pump (gasoline)..."output" (pumping ability) test............Having the Vehicle parked "Outside", in the fresh air, because an engine's exhaust gas is "Deadly", I would then, remove the fuel line from the carburetor, and, plug a rubber hose (oh, about 4 feet long or more) onto it, then place, the other end of that rubber hose in a bucket, then, start the engine (it should run for a minute or two, maybe more, on the gasoline, that was (presumably), still in the carburetor's float bowl/s , and then watch, how good (or not...???), the flow of gasoline was, that was (hopefully), coming out of that rubber hose, that was held over the bucket/pail..........If there was a good flow of gasoline, coming out of the end of that rubber hose, then, all is good, and, if not, then, maybe, just maybe, that "push rod", might not have been installed, possibly...???...lol.............If you can tell me, a few things, about your vehicle, as in...Year...Make...Model...Engine size, etc, then, I'll be able, to be, a bit more specific, and a whole lot, less generic, with the information, that I'll be able to provide you with...thanks, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hie boss. I have a mazda 323 b6 engine and my pump is giving me problems. If i try to repair the one i have and fail where can i get a new one? Im in Zim
Greetings...Munyaradzi Mhishi...........Thanks for watching............If you need to get a new fuel pump, then, first, try phoning a few automotive parts places, that are in the area where you live............If you don't have any luck with the phone calls, then, there are lots of automotive parts places (businesses) world-wide, as well as Ebay (for different countries as well), and, you can order the new fuel pump online (with a computer, smart phone, or maybe over the phone/with your voice, sometimes), and have it shipped (delivered) to the address of your choosing..............Here are a few things, to be aware of, when-ever ordering something online............Be very careful with your personal information, and the form of payment as well..........You can join/sign-up with Paypal or its equivalent, or, possibly use something like, a very low limit credit card, to protect yourself (just in case).............Make sure, to check the, shall we say, shipping time, as in, how long it will take, for your new fuel pump to arrive............Also, pay very close attention to, the shipping cost itself, b-cuz, sometimes, it can be very high...!!!.............So, I hope everything works out ok for you..............Good luck, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...ulfrogger3..........Thanks for watching.........These old school "mechanical" type of fuel pumps, have to "pull" the gasoline, all the way from the gas tank, through a quite small (in diameter)...(usually made of steel), tubing (pipe), all the way up-to the fuel pump, and from the fuel pump, (usually) up to the carburetor, it (the gasoline) goes..........The "Key" here, is that the Mustang (car...not horse...!!!...lol), sat for quite some time (2 months)...........The gasoline, that was in the carburetor's float bowl, or bowls, as the case may be, will usually "disappear" (like, it evaporates), and the engine doesn't have any gasoline to burn, well, until there is quite a bit of gasoline, once again, being pumped into the float bowl/s, that is............Here's what I do, when-ever I want to start a vehicle, that's been sitting for a while, that has a carburetor on its engine, along with, the good ole mechanical type of fuel pump, bolted onto the engine..........I have a small squeeze bottle, with a few ounces of gasoline in it, and, I remove the carburetor's air cleaner "lid", and squirt about 2 or 3 tablespoons of gasoline, into each primary throttle bore, and sometimes, I have to open the choke plate, with (my other) hand, if it's in the closed position..........Then, I replace the air cleaner (housing's) "lid", in case the engine "backfires"..........Then, if the Carb has an automatic choke on it, I push the gas pedal down once, or more if you like..........Then, the engine will usually fire-up, and now, the mechanical fuel pump is pumping much faster, while the engine is running, as opposed to, how slow the gasoline gets pumped, at the much slower, engine "cranking" speed...........Sometimes, I might have to repeat, the, shall we say..."Priming" routine, with a few more squirts of gasoline from the good ole "engine priming" squeeze bottle, if the engine doesn't keep running from the first attempt..........A while back, I had a "Faulty" (hardly worked at all), top brand name mechanical fuel pump, and, the car barely made it home (just a few miles away), so, that's a (rare) possibility perhaps...???...........Are the Fuel "Filters" clean (enough)...???............There's usually a fuel filter in the gas tank, that doesn't need any help usually, well, unless it gets plugged up (quite rare), just so Ya know...........Then, there's usually a fuel filter, in, or very close to the carburetor, and maybe another one, a bit closer to the fuel pump possibly.............Maybe, one (or more), fuel filters, might be "plugged-up", perhaps...???...(if plugged-up really bad, the engine will usually starve for gasoline)............Remember "Safety", as in, No Gasoline inside the house or building, if there's an open flame of any kind, like a gas pilot light, or Boom, and I hope not..........If the gasoline "Priming" method doesn't work for you, just let me know..........Good luck, and........till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
appriciate the video. thank you. the more you know about cars, the more you can please the wife or girlfriend when one breaks down. eh heh. anyhow thanks.
Greetings.........You might be able to please the better half if you have a mechanical fuel pump in your car.......but.......if you are driving a newer car with fuel injection, they have an electric fuel pump inside the gas tank!!!!!!!!...........so......maybe.......keep your cell phone battery charged.........so.......You can call a tow truck if that electric fuel pump quits!........lol.........Take care, and have a good one..................Rocky.
Greetings...spymaine89........Thanks for watching.......Sorry, I can't help you out with the lengths of the bolts.......What I do when I take something apart, is to make a picture with a pen and paper, as to where a short or long bolt was installed originally.......You can also take a picture or video with your phone, that way, you can see what went where, when it was all together, and....be safe, take care, and have a good one.
Great video! I am a noob trying to restore a 1979 van that's been sitting for 30 years! I will take all the help I can get!
good job...learned a lot...always wondered how these old pumps worked...excellent video
Greetings...SuperBee Hemi...…….Thanks, for the nice comment, and for, watching too...…….New design of Hemi, nah, no thanks, but, a good ole, (painted orange) 426 Hemi, with dual quads, now we're talkin'...lol...and till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hey Rocky! just a quick comment. If I remember correctly, the old 60's mechanical pumps had a weep hole like the water pumps had. You always knew if the diaphragm was shot by leaking. But First if not leaking or smelling of fuel, always change out the inline fuel filter first. Especially if intermittent stalling out. Once sediment settles, it will run again for a bit. Cheers from Michigan. Thanks for sharing.
Nice explanation thanks helped me no end ,found the pump get a spare from wreckers and refitted the pump ,primed the motor and voila ! just Like a NEW one only $100 cheaper than the last time it happened to a car of mine 10 years ago so that $100 would most likely be $300 Now!! I owe you a beer or three for that one mate...cheers
Greetings...Niki Markieren............Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too..........Yeah, I learned, not too long ago, that..."New"...isn't always..."Better"...than..."Used"...lol.............Now then, please do, allow me to explain, about such a thing (actually, it was more like a "happening"...lol)...........A few year ago, I thought that, it would be, a pretty darn, good idea, to replace, a mechanical (type of) fuel pump, that, was on, a smaller, Oldsmobile, V-8 engine, that was "working good", but, was rather old (in Years), and, had lots of miles (or, kilometers) of use on it...........So, I goes to the parts store, and gets me (and the car too...lol), a..."brand new/top brand name"...mechanical type of fuel pump, and I...Re & Re'd..."it" (Re & Re = Re-move and Re-place), oh, and..."it"...happens to be a fuel pump...lol...........Well, the installation part of it, went very well....then, a few days later, another type of..."it"...happened, and, almost, yes, I said almost..."left me (and the car too), stranded"...(good thing, that..."it/the happening""...happened, on a quiet road, without having, very many other cars around, at all)...........Well, after quite a few starting attempts, Ya might say, that a (small?)..."Miracle"...happened, as in, the "thing" ("thing" in this case = engine...lol), actually started, but, barely stayed running, but, just enough, for me, to..."Nurse/Limp"..."it"...back home, just a few miles away ("it", this time = whole damn car...!!!...lol)..........So, what was causing this...(You choose the "word"...lol)...Problem...???...!!!.............Well now, when I got around to checking the..."flow-rate"...of the gasoline, on the output side of the...Brand "NEW"...fuel pump, guess what happened...???.............Well now, I'd say, that, a "small Rodent", would be able to..."out-Pizz"...that (You choose the "word", yet again...lol), so called..."top brand name...NEW...fuel pump"...!!!...oh-my-goodness...how about that...???...lol...(I be guessin', that, that there, "NEW" fuel pump, might-ah had a, so called..."Manufacturer's Defect"...of, one kind, or another, don't-cha think, maybe...???)...........Thanks kindly, for the "Brew-skee" (aka, Beer) offer, my friend, as, I sure do, appreciate your kind gesture, but, Beer, (cans or bottles), don't travel so well, via the internet...lol...but, kind words...sure do.........."Cheers"...mate, I say (as the BIG Beer glasses) go..."Clank"...oops... I meant to say..."Clink"...and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
You're a life saver! Got in running on the second shot of gas to the carb! Thanks so much!
Greetings Alot327....Yes indeed, Mechanical fuel pumps might be on the left or right side of your engine, depending on where the Designers/Engineers chose/had to, because of the way in which the engine is built/designed....Just remember that Mechanical fuel pumps only last about 50,000 Miles, maybe more, maybe even less....So, if your fuel pump has high mileage on it, or it is old (in years), maybe put a new one in, so you won't get "Stranded" somewhere!....Take care, and have a good one...
Q
Right above that input on the bottom there is that ridge thats just over the diaphragm. The hole there...what is it? I had similar issues and discovered that was leaking fuel through that hole. When I sealed the hole the car ran like a dream
Excellent video. Thanks
VERY GOOD VIDEO! Educational.
Thanks for the info. This was a great detailed video.
Greetings...Keon Nelson...........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching..........Well, it was kinda detailed, to a certain point, somewhat, as, there should also be..."2"..."one way" (only) Check Valves, hidden, inside of, this mechanical type of fuel pump, somewhere...............The "inlet", (one way only) check valve, (that's on the "suction" side of the fuel pump), would let the gasoline through (from the fuel line, that came from the vehicle's gas tank), but, "would-not", let it flow back, into that fuel line............Then, once, the gasoline, gets inside of the fuel pump, and becomes under pressure, then, the only direction, that, the gasoline can flow, is through the "outlet", (one way only) Check Valve, that's on the "pressure" side, of the fuel pump, and then, the gasoline, makes its way, through the other fuel line, and into the carburetor's float bowl, it goes, well, until, the Needle Valve, in the carburetor's float bowl, shuts off the gasoline flow, that is.............So, there You have it, well, for now that is, and....till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hello once again, my Friend...Thanks for your nice comment....I hope that you can understand the information that I just typed in response to the question that you had about your 302-Engines fuel pump...Try to read all that you can about Safety, and any information, as it applies to your car, when you work on it...Just always be aware that your car has the potential to hurt you if you are not careful...Put your parking/emergency brake on, and, watch out for Hot, and Moving parts!...Bye-4-now...
If the plugs in your carb are covering the Idle "Mixture" screws, then all you can do is set the Idle "Speed".........Check the specifications for your vehicle, and set the Idle "Speed" to that......Remember Safety!.......Also, take a look at your Air Filter, as a "Dirty" Air Filter will cause your Carb to run "Rich" because it will restrict the flow of Air resulting in less Air, and more "Fuel" in the "Fuel Mixture" at Idle, and, at all engine speeds! Take care...
When I said to get the fastest engine speed, it was when you were adjusting the "Idle MIXTURE" screw/screws, not the Idle "Speed" screw.......If you had access to your Idle "Mixture" screws, then when you turn them "Clockwise", you get a "Leaner" Idle Mixture, and the engine revs faster until you turn them to the point where the engine revs start to slow down.......It is at this point, where the engine revs the fastest, just before the engine revs start to slow down that you adjust for.
...If your engine will not keep running on its own, then it could be a few things other then the fuel pump causing the problem....In the gas tank, there is usually a filter of some kind on the end of the fuel pick-up line (clogged maybe?), and usually does not need replacing....Also 1 or maybe 2 fuel filters in your engine compartment....Perhaps 1 of them mounted in/on your carburetor perhaps?....The 1 or 2 fuel filters in your engine compartment should be changed yearly....(con't)
Hello.....I'm not sure which Carb that you have there.......Any 2 or 4 Barrel carbs that I have seen with the tamper proof plugs, are usually covering the "Idle Mixture" screws......They are usually set at settings that will get you through the "Smog" test, and give you good mileage as well......Usually set at .5 to 1.5 CO....(Carbon Monoxide) if checked with a smog meter.
If it has a Throttle Body Injection (looks kinda like a Carburetor), then it needs somewhere around 13 PSI or more, and the other types of fuel injection mechanisms need around 50 PSI or more of fuel pressure!....Unless, your car has a Carburetor...then, your 302s Engine Block has to have the provision to have a "Mechanical" Fuel Pump mounted to the side of it...(con't)...
Hi there....I don't work on many Import carbs, mostly Domestic carbs.....Normally, a Main Jet is a fixed size, and starts to work when the engine is Above Idle.....Idle mixture (changes the amount of air/fuel mixture that the engine burns) at engine Idle speed.....Idle speed screw is the one that you turn to get the Idle Speed only......Given that there is a tamper proof plug there, just adjust the Idle Speed Screw the way it says to in your manual.....Remember Safety!!!!!!!!!!
It's good to know but if the a long arm don't catch what do you do then
I'm apologize I have turned the engine over with out the feul pump what it do
Greetings johnnelson-hi8mj...I saw your other comment, about, not having the fuel pump installed, and sometimes, it can be, that we forget something, from time to time.......Even I, at times, have made a few mistakes, when putting things together......So then, we just have to find the mistake, and hopefully correct it, well, if possible, that is, and, take care, and have a good one.
here's the issue I'm having with my 1, it's leaking, but the hoses are ok it's coming from the pump, but a couple times I've tightened the bottom bolt and it's stopped leaking, but then when I start it up another time it's back to leaking, when I first noticed the issue I had steamy smoke coming from the engine bay but it went away after a bit, when the engine heats up, possibly the gasket is failing ? what do you think?
Greetings Jhosaphat78....A mechanical fuel pump is good for about 50,000 miles (maybe more, maybe less)...I had one of mine quit (fortunately) while I was driving on a side street (original pump with only about 30,000 miles on it)...If yours is either old, or has many miles on it, then it's better to change it at home, or, you might have it quit on you, in the middle of no-where, and Towing bills are expensive!...The older fuel pumps are not very expensive ($30.00 to $50.00 in Canada)...(con't)
Also try some Fuel System Cleaner in your gas tank........This will make its way through your carb, and clean out the different circuits in your carb......Make sure that the carb cleaner says that it is OK for cars that have carburetors!......Gasoline may look nice when it is new and in liquid form, but when old gasoline dries up, it turns into what looks like a brown colored varnish or glue!.......So often, a carbs problems are due to deposits that restrict or plug up tiny passages!!!!!!!!
Hello there.......A mechanical fuel pump is good for about 50,000 miles generally speaking.......I just returned a new fuel pump that didn't work properly, (very low output)......Make sure all fuel lines and filters are not restricted.....With engine warm, Parking Brake ON!.....Transmission in Park or Neutral, adjust mixture screw/screws to get fastest engine speed, then adjust Idle "Speed" screw to get the correct idle speed that is specified in a factory manual....Maybe a carb rebuild?
I replaced the pump in a 76 ford it turns over and runs but I don't see any fuel going to the fuel filter line into the carb. Also the truck will shift into gear but won't move in reverse or drive.. any suggestions?
Great video by the way!
Greetings...TechDoc………..Thanks for the nice comment, and thanks, for watching too...…….Do you have a "see-through" fuel filter (because, that's probably, about the only way, that you'll be able to see any gasoline flowing, well, if it's flowing, that is)……….Did you install a "new" fuel filter...???...…….If the engine runs ok, and, there aren't any gasoline leaks, then, you should be good to go, engine-wise, that is...…….With most automatic transmissions, that don't have any drive, in forward or reverse gear, then, the first thing to do is..."Check" the automatic transmission's..."Fluid Level"...…….Try to find out, the procedure, for your "exact" vehicle (if you have the truck's owners manual, then, it might be found in there)………..The truck has to be on "Level" ground, or, the reading won't be accurate...…….Take a look on the automatic transmission's "Dip-Stick", for some lines, along with, hot or cold markings...……..Some automatics, are checked in Park, some in Neutral, but check first...…….The temperature of the fluid is important too...…….In a lot of cases, it might only take, one "pint" (1/2 of a Liter, there-abouts) of fluid, to raise, the fluid level up, quite a bit, so, if you need to add any fluid, then, only add a bit at a time, and re-check the level, that's showing on the dip-stick........Don't Over-Fill it...!!!...because, the fluid, might start to "Foam-up", and then, the transmission, will malfunction, and possibly get damaged...!!! (expensive to fix)………..Make sure, to use the "correct" type of fluid (1976, might use type "F" fluid, but always check)…...Sometimes, the type of fluid, is stamped into the dip-stick, so, look for that, just in case...……..The shifting linkage, might need to be adjusted...…….Not sure about yours, but, some auto-transmissions, might require, what is called, a "band" adjustment, and, if needed, a shift lever, linkage adjustment too...……..On the dip-stick, the fluid should look clean, and not look like, it's a brown-ish, varnish-like color, which could be a sign, that, it got too hot/over-heated...........If the fluid level, wasn't the problem, then, look on the internet, for some websites, that have a Ford Truck "Forum" on it, and ask those people, about your truck (some, same year, Car forums, will probably be able to help you out too)……….Good luck, and......till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Great video. Helped me out.
Greetings...Henry Gomez........Thanks for the nice comment, and thanks, for watching too........Here's, the typical, shall we say, "path", that, the gasoline follows, from start to finish.........Gasoline is already in the gas tank...then...there's usually a filter (sometimes called a sock), that's on the end of the pickup pipe/tube, that is located, inside of the gas tank, near the bottom...then...from there, the fuel line (tubing/pipe), usually gets connected to, the "inlet" side, of, the mechanical type of fuel pump...then...from the fuel pump's "outlet" side, the fuel line, will usually be connected to, what is called, an "inline" fuel filter, if there is one, that is...then...from there, the fuel line, will usually go, directly to the carburetor (some carburetors, such as, the Rochester 2 and 4 barrel carbs, will usually have, a small fuel filter, kinda hiding, inside of, a small, removable, screw-threaded fitting, that screws into the carburetor's main body)........If "any", of the fuel filters, happen to get plugged up, really bad, then, the fuel pump, won't be able to, pump enough gasoline, or maybe, none at all, into the carburetor, so, be aware of that, just in case, the fuel pump, gets "blamed", when it wasn't at fault, after all, just sayin'..........It's a good idea, to replace, the fuel filter/s, at the vehicle manufacturer's, recommended, replacement interval, oh, and, don't forget, about the air filter too.........In the past, I even had, a "brand new", brand name, mechanical type of fuel pump, that was "faulty/didn't work properly", right out of its shipping box...!!!...man, I sure wasn't expecting that, to ever happen, but, the parts store, exchanged it, no problem, with another, new, same brand of fuel pump, and look Ma, "it" works super good now...!!!...lol...and.......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow Thanks again. Needed to replace the mechanical fuel pump on my 1966 Dodge Polara. It was leaking like a sieve. I watched a few videos but found yours the most helpful. Everything worked out well. The only issue was accessing the bolts. I didn't want to move the alternator out of the way and then have to re-tighten the belts and all that. I was able to get the bolts out. One from above and the other from below. Man what a pain, 1/4 turn at a time. Long bolt, long time turning.
Greetings...Henry Gomez........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching (again...lol)........It's good to hear, that you, shall we say, "outsmarted", that, kinda-in-the-way alternator, that didn't have to be moved, after all was said and done........Just be thankful, that, it wasn't a part or component, that had to be re & re'd (removed and replaced), that was on an engine, that was in a much newer/current vehicle, because, I tend to think in terms (jokingly, that is), that, Ya might have to take, half of the engine apart, just to gain access to, the part or component, that Ya want to change out...!!!...lol........Also, the newer vehicles, that have computerized/fuel injected engines, will usually have an electric fuel pump, that, shall we say..."hides"...inside of the gas tank........In order to replace one of those "things", then, Ya usually have to drop the gas tank, down, from the vehicle, just to get at the darn thing...!!! (lol)...and, the electric fuel pump, will probably cost, quite a bit more, when compared to, our "ancient", mechanical type of fuel pump, and.....till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank you!
...gasoline down into the 2 front Barrels of your carburetor (you might have to hold the Choke Plate open, so you can see the 2 front throttle bores)...then, re-install your air cleaner top (lid), and secure...then, push your gas pedal down, and release...Try starting your engine, it should at least Sputter to Life!..If it stalls, turn off the ignition, and take your key out, then, do the "Prime" routine again, making sure that your engine is Not Running when adding the gas "Prime!"...(con't)
You mentioned that your electric fuel pumps are burning out....Try keeping your gas tank at least 1/4 (one quarter) full, that will keep the fuel pump inside your gas tank (if you have one in there) cooler....Be careful when adding fuel system cleaner (if you do), because sometimes the Crud from your gas tank can plug your Fuel Filter!!!...When Fuel Filters get plugged, that can, and will burn out your Electric Fuel Pump!!!....Change your Fuel Filter at least every Year!....Take care, my Friend
So the cam lobe rapidly pushes the arm down and the spring (I think some pumps don't have springs though) forces it back up. Tell me, what's the distance it moves down and up?
Hi...my parents have an old 1987 Econoline RV and I'm told it looks like the mechanical fuel pump is leaking from the top of the pump. Is that possible? I mean, it's for sure leaking, but could it actually be leaking from the top of the pump, which looks very very much like the pump you talked about in this video. It doesn't look like any of the fuel lines are leaking; at least I couldn't see any leaks from them when I was told to look for myself. The gas seems to be squirting from the top of the pump near the engine, which means we couldn't see exactly where the gas was coming from. Do you have a video explaining/showing how to replace this pump? My grandpa wants to try his hand at changing it and I'd like to watch him do it. I thought all pumps were electric, but no so in the old Econolines I guess. Thank you. Good job explaining how this pump works by the way. I gave you a thumbs up Like...#34! -)
kathy loften I say...Greetings kathy loften (as I'm Waving to...Mom...Pops...&...Grandpa too)................Maybe, before I forget, I should also tell You, about my "Other" RUclips Video, on My RUclips Channel...RockysRoadshow....and the "Title", of that Video, that, I'm quite sure, You Folks, would probably want to watch as well, seeing as how this particular Video of mine, had You-All, shall we say, "Captivated" some-what, and, the "Title" of the Video in question, happens to be............(drum roll please...lol)............."Mechanical Type Fuel Pump Taken Apart"...enjoy...............................Now then, sorry, but I don't happen to have, a Video, on the "Actual Replacement", of a "Mechanical Type of Fuel Pump" at all, probably because, I'm not all that sure, that I'd be able to..."Park A Vehicle on Top of my Work-Bench, inside my House"...!!!...lol.........................................Most of my RUclips Videos, are just usually Made, on top of my Work-Bench, some-what Limiting the "Size" of my "Video Subject Matter" (as in, what-ever I can safely place on top of the work-bench), at this particular point in time..................."Warning"...when-ever working around "Gasoline", especially when it is in the form of a "Vapor", all it takes is, something like a Small "Spark", and..."Boom"..so, be very Careful...as in..."No Sparks or Smoking"...!!! (take Grandpa's Pipe away from Him, when He's Not Looking...and Hide It...!!!...lol)...........................Have a "Fire Extinguisher" with-in Reach...Just in case.............................Sometimes, that "Gasoline Leak", could just be, a Hose Clamp, or a Fitting/Nut, not being as "Tight as It should be", where it Connects to the actual Fuel Pump, and, sometimes, just needs to be "Tightened-Up" a bit, but, that's something that needs to be determined, once the "Initial Visual Inspection/have a look-see", and, what-ever it is, that happens to Turn-Up (and no, not the vegetable...lol)............................Have a look, to see, just how many "Connections", that there happens to be, on the Fuel Pump "Itself", as, there are quite a few "Different Fuel Pump Designs" out there............If the "Gasoline Leak"...is coming from the Fuel Pump Itself, and Not, just a Rubber Hose/Metal Tubing Line, then, it kinda looks like, that good ole Fuel Pump, has seen better days, and needs to be replaced with a "New" One.........................................."Re & Re-ing" (Removing and Replacing) a Mechanical Type of Fuel Pump, is quite straight-forward, and reasonably Simple.........................Usually, just needing, a couple of Common Hand Tools, like a couple of appropriate Sized Combination Wrenches, and maybe a Ratchet & some Sockets, if the Fuel Pump, doesn't get in the way, that is, and, maybe a Knife or Hacksaw, if a Rubber Hose, happens to be, part of, all of this (call-it-what-You-will)......................... Have a Catch-Bucket/Pail, to Catch any Dripping Gasoline, and maybe, a few drops of Motor Oil, as well, under the Fuel Pump's location, as, there's bound, to be some, shall we say "Drip-age"...lol......................................If...???...and maybe when...???...the undertaking, of that Mechanical Fuel Pump, Re-Placement, happens to take place..."Make Sure", that, once the "Old" Fuel Pump is removed, that, the "Surface on the Engine", where the Mounting Face, of the New Fuel Pump makes "Contact-With", on the Engine, has "All Traces", of the "Old Gasket"..."Removed, and be, Clean & Dry as well, or, You're-Gonna-Get-a-Leak, but this time,..."It's-Gonna-be-Motor-Oil"...lol .........................The "New" Fuel Pump, should come with a "New Gasket", that, shall we say, gets "Sang-wiched" (well, to be Politically Correct, then it's..."Sandwiched"...!!!...lol)..."Between"...the...Engine's Mounting Surface...and the...Fuel Pump's Mounting Surface.............Some Guys, and maybe, Gals too, just Install the Gasket..."Dry"...while "Others"...would..."Coat Both Sides of the Gasket"...with, a..."Sealant", of, one kind or another...it's, well, kinda, ahhhhh, Personal Choice, if You will, just sayin' (as I duck for Cover, just in case, They decide to..."Shoot the Messenger"...lol)........................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...I'm guessin' that, if-in we-all went back in Time, to the good ole "Horse and Buggy Days", we just might see, Someone (prolly Wearin' a Cowboy Hat), use-in, one of, them thar "Hand Water Pumps", to "Fill, that thar "Wooden Bucket", just after Hear-in...Someone...Yellin'...some-where's over-Yonder..."Go and Fetch Me's a Pail of Wadder" (Hey...No lol-ing allowed..this here is Serious Stuff...!!!..."Not"...lol)...gee's...I done lost track, of what I was fixin' to do.............Oh Yeah, that's It.........What I was eluding to, was, maybe, just maybe, it was that good ole "Hand Water Pump", back in the Old days, that Inspired/made the Suggestion there-of, and as I see it, probably, due to the, shall we say "Similarities", when comparing that "Hand Water Pump"..."To"...the "Fuel Pump" that We are Discussing here...only, the "RV's Engine"..."Replaces"...the "Humans Arm"...that had to "Actuate", that, as i was sayin' before, that good ole "Hand Water Pump" (prolly, where Humans, started to be Replaced with "Technology"..."Yikes"...!!!...lol)..............................................Just make sure, that the..."RV"...is..."Parked Outside"...is on..."Level Ground"...having the..."Gear Selector in Park" (automatic transmission, I presume?)...and have the..."Emergency/Parking Brake On"...and, some..."Wheel/Tire Chalks"...placed where, all 4 Tires Contact the Ground/Driveway/Parking-Lot...so the...Recreational Vehicle...Doesn't decide, to go on a "Trip" of "Its Own"...!!!...(to lol, or not to lol, that is the question)...................Tell "Grandpa", its "Easier then he Thinks"...just don't give Him a Beer, until He's "Finished, Washing His Hands"...!!!...lol...........................Thanks kindly, for, All of those..."Thumbs-Up"...my Friend......................Good Luck, with "Mr. Fuel Pump"...and be Careful Grandpa, as, I want to be able to Talk to You, and, Not about You.............Till next Time............You-All......Be (Extra) Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hi...thanks for all the advice. Very nice of you. And I'm sure we're going to be safe doing this replacement thingie. Thanks for the tips. With everything you wrote, you might consider writing as a career...or at least a past time. I've never seen so many quotation marks in one comment in my entire life. -)
Take care and thanks again.
kathy loften Greetings kathy loften....Hmmmmmm...(I'm)...thinkin'...Thinkin'...&...still THINKIN'...Yep, that's what I seem to do...24/7/365 Dayz a year, and maybe, One more, (day), if-in a "Leap Year" is taken into consideration as well........................................I'll bet, that, those, what seemingly seem to be, oh, might I call them, an "Infinitesimal Amount of Jigsaw Puzzle Pieces", Float-in' around inside my...oh oh, now I'm stuck for Words...what's that Stuff, or "Thinkin' Centre/Center", that's inside my Head, that's located some-wherez between my two Hear'in Thingies...???...ummmmm...by-jove...I think I've got it (after all...lol)...(now my....that's it..."BRAIN"...is having some difficulty...communicatin' "Its" Signal, to my..."Keyboard's, Chicken Peckin' Fingers, and Thumbs too"...(and...with an embarrassed look on my face, I due-ly, do admit, that..."I CAN'T TYPE"...even though, I do recall, having a..."How to Type", on a Type-Writer, or now-ah-dayz, it's just called a "Key-Bored", and this "Newer-fangled-thing-ah-ma-Bob"...Doesn't even Need a..."Reel mounted, ink saturated, printing Ribbon"..."What-so-ever"...!!! (fancy that huh...lol)....................Hmmmm...I believe, that there..."How To Type (Properly & Efficiently), on, what is known, to most of Us these days, as a, now get this, a..."QWERTY"..Keyboard (lay-out System, as seen, on the more common Keyboards)...and also...(were You aware, that, by just using the "TOP ROW of Lettered KEYS, on Your KEYBOARD", that You are able to, Spell the Word..."TYPEWRITER"...???...how bout that Eh...lol)..........................Hey, wait a minute now, it appears that..."I have been Typing all along", and, (pausing in Diss-belief, I gather my Thoughts...hang on please, this may take a while)........................................................................................................."Hole-ee-Gwalk-ah-moe-lee"...I just realized, that my...what was it called again...oh yeah...my..."Brian"....happened to be in..."Auto-Pilot-Mode" (yet Again!)...and...I guess, that, "Subconsciously"...my "Chicken-Peckin' Fingers, and Thumbs too", kinda had a..."Mind of Their Own" (but, fear not, as my Self-manipulating, fingers, and thumbs too, still Don't Know)..."What a Wee-Gee Board Is" (or to Some, What..."It'"..."Is-Not")...oh, and..."never", and I repeat "NEVER", watch the..."Poltergeist Movie"...(Scary Sounds in the Back-Ground...!!!...lol)...when it's..."Dark Out & Ur all Alone"...(I'm guessin' You get the Picture...lol)...or, if-in You happen to be, like some other "Scare-dee-Cats" out there, You might be havin', oh, let's call it............."Night-Mare-City"...!!!...lol............................Oh darn, I should add this before I forget..................That there "Software Program", that I have, some-wherez around here, that I really should Learn to Type from, was Titled..."Mavis Beacon"...teaches..."Typing"...or something along those lines, I think....................................As You can see, I'm no "Professor", in any way, shape, or form, what-so-ever, as, I'm not all that sure, that, I even know, an..."Ad-Noun"...from a..."Pro-Verb"...and every time, that I'm...Subject (-ed), to, just about anything that involves an..."Object"...I always seem to always get...Predicate (-ed) in the End...!!! (see that, I really Do like to have a lotta "Fun", with "All" of those there..."Puzzle-Pieces"...that I've either been..."Blessed-with"...or, maybe even..."Cursed-with"...that, as I'm, quite sure)..."Really Do Reside", inside my.......ummmm....what was "It" called again....help me out here please..................................Ur too Late, I finally remembered, and it happens to be..."My Brain"...(and who knows, maybe, I'm being "Man-ip-U-Late-ed", by, some "Other-Life-Form", or maybe, the way in which, the "Ah-Roar-Ra-Bore-ee-al-us" (aka, Northern Lights)...rather "Symphonic Display"..of..."Rainbow Colored", and, like They say, and call Them..."Dancing Lights"..."Behave"...just might be Affecting me, in one way or another....???)...(might even be..."Something"...or, an..."Entity"...from another)..."Planet"...in a...far...Far-away..."Galaxy"...and I'm really Hope-in, that, that there "Galaxy", happens to be, the..."Milky-Way"...cuz...I really..."Do-Like"...My, Favorite Cold Beverage, and that happens to be......................................."2% Milk"...oh and, may I please have a Tall Glass of "It"..."On the Rocks" (the "Rocks", that are be-in referred to here, happen to be, Frozen "H2-Oh"...aka..."Ice Cubes"...lol)...oh and, "It", (the 2% Milk), must be workin'...cuz...I'm "Still Alive"...!!! (and still Here, to Torture You-All, with, my some-what "Abstract Form of Entertainment"...!!!...lol)................Well, prolly, time, to..."Wind-er-down"...but, please, hang in there...just a few more things to mention, before I head for..."Infinity and Beyond".............If You care to, You are most welcome, to Browse through, the Videos that are on my RUclips Channel, and, if You make it to my RUclips Channel Page...RockysRoadshow...once there, You should be seeing, a long & wide Picture, of a bunch of People, on a rather expansive beach, and, if You were to have a look-see, at the "Bottom Right Corner, of, that Beach Picture", You, hopefully, will See, that "Blogger/Icon Thingie", that is "Linked", to some of my Other "Ramblings", that I'm responsible for, some time ago.......................Oh, and, were You aware, that, I'm some-what of a "Poet" as well...??? (prolly, just another Blessing, or Curse, that makes me, who I am, I guess)...(oh oh, here we go again, the words "Cursive Writing", just popped into my head, and no, I'm not in the habit of Audibly Speaking Profanities on a regular basis...lol)...................................If and when...???....You happen to have a gander, at my RUclips Channel, that "Poem", that I not only "Wrote", but also, "Narrated" with my very own "Voice", is easily found, as its Video "Thumbnail Picture is All Blue", and the Title of it is........................"The Thermoquad (carburetor) Poem"...enjoy....................................The reason that I'm not using, prim and proper "Paragraphs", is for the very reason, that, if-in I try to leave a "Space", in between each and every Paragraph, there have been, more times then Not, where-by, those required "Spaces"..."Go Missing"...and the so called Paragraphs, get..."All Scrunched Together"..(well, some time ago, I was able to make some real purr-dee Paragraphs)....................................Oh yeah, those "Quotation Marks", that You were referring to, my use of, are really not, being used, in the Proper...Glammer, no, Grammar, Way, and, the Fancy Schmancy/Politically Acceptable Way, in which they are to be used, in a, shall we say, Literary sense, and some-what, being at, a, might be, University Level/Way/Manner as well, are one thing...but...the way that "I'm Using", those there "Quotation Marks"...are to be Compared to, as I see it (and Imagine it too...lol), is to be that, of Using, those there Quotation Marks, as, what I like to call..."Bedazzling Fishing Lures"....kinda like, having Me..."Use Some Bling"...in order, to bring Your "Un-Divided-Attention-to"....the..."Words or Phrases"...that, as I see it..."Should grab Ur Eye's, Unwavering Attention"...lol....................................Well, there You have it, just a small Sampling of, what I was either "Blessed" with, or "Cursed" with, and, I'll let You be the Judge of what-ever, that might, just be......................................Till next time...............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thanks again...wonderful response!
Prob fixed by now but in that huge paragraph he wrote did he mention its prob leaking out the weep hole just had that happen to me
Hello there , I have a fiat 1100 , 1983 petrol model . The fuel pump wasn't pumping fuel so the mechanic changed the diaphragm and then when we cranked the engine, the fuel pump began to pump fuel at such high force that the carburetor started to overflow literally like a river . Is there a fix for this problem?
Do you put grease on the end of the actuator arm where it touches the eccentric?
God bless
Thank you brother
Greetings Sugarfeet...You sure have an interesting car there....I did some research on your car, and, if it is Fuel Injected, then it may have "2" Electric Fuel Pumps!...One low pressure pump in the gas tank, and one high pressure fuel pump outside of the gas tank...If it has Fuel Injection of any type then you have to use Electric Pump/Pumps!...The "Mechanical" type of fuel pumps only put out less then 10 Pounds Per Square Inch (PSI), where-as, Fuel Injection Needs more Fuel Pressure!..(con't)
Very helpful mate, thanks
...Now, about testing the output of your fuel pump....No Smoking, No Sparks, and, have a Fire Extinguisher nearby!...With engine Not Running, the fuel line that goes from the fuel pump to the carburetor, has to be disconnected...then you have to hook up a hose to the output side of the fuel pump, and place it in a large jar, or bucket beside your car, and secure...then, have a helper (Person), start your engine (tell them to only start your engine when you say so!!!)....(con't)
Hello once again....15 to 20 minutes, you say....So many things, that it might be....Still have enough gas in the gas tank?....Try helping the Idle Speed with your foot on the gas pedal (just enough so it won't stall)....Your fuel pump might be on its way out alright....Try changing the Fuel Filter/Filters in your engine compartment, and/or carburetor first, that might help)....Also, you might have water/condensation in your gas tank....See if the filter/filters change helps....Take care...
(I Bow, and say)...."You're Welcome!"...lol
thanks it was very helpful ..i have 1971 dart slant 6 .
Greetings...D W...….Thanks for watching...……..Well, my (use-tah have), slant 6, was 2 years older...….It was, a 1969...225...slant six, that was in that, good ole 1969, funky lookin' van, that had, a..."3 on the Tree"...lol...(as in, 3 speed manual transmission/with a clutch pedal, and, having the shifter, up by the steering wheel)...……..Damn, when I got it, it had a Bigger carburetor on it, and, Hooker headers too...!!!...…..Accelerated even better, once I changed, the whole rear axle carrier, when, it went from, about 2.73 there-abouts, up to, 3.55 rear end gear ratio...!!!...Wowsers…!!!...Super acceleration from a stop...but...the poor ole engine, was revving its guts out, if I went any more than, about..."double-nickels"...lol (55 miles per hour), on the freeway/highway...!!!...…….Ah yes...the good ole days (big sigh)...lol...….and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Sooo... Am I correct - if I were to gently *suck* on the inlet tube, or gently *blow* in the outlet tube, the valves should offer some resistance if the pump is working correctly?
Greetings...Don Emmerich.............Thanks for watching............."Warning"...!!!...Never Inhale Gasoline Fumes, or, Gasoline, in its Liquid state, cuz the stuff is Very "Toxic", and is probably, a Nasty, Cancer causing Carcinogen as well...!!!................Maybe, try Your Low...Air Pressure Test, with something along the lines, of, an empty Squeeze Bottle (or squeeze bulb), with some rubber hose or tubing, connected to it, that will also fit, onto the Pipes or Fittings, on the Fuel Pump, and, just use hand pressure, on the squeeze bottle, for the Positive Pressure Test, and then, for the Vacuum/Suction Test, then, shall we say..."Pre-Squeeze" (aka, Squish the Air out of the Squeeze Bottle)..."Before"...making the Connection, to the fuel pump's, pipe or fitting, then Release, Your hand-hold, so the Squeeze Bottle, does all of the work by itself...oh, and, do the Test Out-Doors, for safety's sake.................I guess, that, in theory, by doing the Test, of Fuel Pump's, one way (only) "Check Valves", then, at least You'll know, whether or not, they are Functioning somewhat...........Me, myself, well, I haven't done this "Check Valve" test, yet, but maybe, some day, I just might...???................Speaking of Mechanical Fuel Pumps & (one way) Check Valves...a few years ago, I installed, a Brand New/Brand Name Fuel Pump, on a V-8 Engine, and it seemed to be working Ok...for a while...then...Oh oh...the Engine Died, and the last, shall we say "Suspect", that I was thinkin' about, was, the Brand New (with only a few miles on it) mechanical Fuel Pump, that, I not so long ago, installed, and I said to myself...nah, can't be that Nice New (mechanical) Fuel Pump, that's causing the Fuel "Starvation", in the Carburetor's float bowl, but, then again...Could "it"...???...............So now, here's the Test, that I did (and usually do), for the mechanical, type of Fuel Pump, that bolts onto the Engine Block (usually)...............I have the Vehicle (in question), parked Outside...then, I remove the Fuel Line, from the Carburetor...then, I connect, a few feet of Hose, to that disconnected fuel line, and place that Extra length of hose, into a Catch Can/Bucket, that's on the ground, near one of the car's front fenders...........Then, have a Helper, "Crank" the engine over, and, if the Engine Starts or Does Not Start, I'll be Watching the Way, that the Gasoline Flows, out of the end of that, shall we say Extension Hose.................If the "Flow" of Gasoline, is nice-n-Strong & continuous, then, the Fuel Pump is probably Ok...............If the Gasoline "Flow", is Weak...intermittent...or just "Spits", a little bit, just like this..."Faulty"...Brand New/very Low Miles on "it"...mechanical Fuel Pump..."DID"...!!!...then..."There's Trouble in Pair-ah-Dice"...!!!...lol...oh, and also, before doing this Failing Test, and do-in, the...Point-the-Finger-Blame-Game...@ the Fuel Pump...."Make Damn Sure", that There "is"...Gasoline "in" the Gas Tank...!!!...lol...............I sure (at the time), did, "Suspect", that, at least, one of the (one way....only)..."Check Valves"...in this almost Brand New, mechanical Fuel was "Fubar" (aka, messed-up), and pretty much, kinda rendered, this particular mechanical Fuel Pump, "Almost" Useless...and I say "Almost", cuz, at least the Car (at night time, and not much traffic on the road), made its way home, under its own Steam (well actually, it was, the little bit of "Gasoline", that managed, to make its way, into the carb's float bowl), that allowed me to, shall we say "Nurse" (with fingers crossed), and having the Car, going quite slow, and get this, "it" made it, all the way "Home"...!!!...Yip-ee...!!!...and look Ma...No Towing Bill this time...!!!...lol................Then, there's a "Pressure" Test, that can be done, with a Low Pressure, Fuel (testing) Gauge, well, if You have one, that is...............For a V-8 Engine, I'm use to seeing, about 5 to 7 PSI/Pounds per square inch, there-abouts.................To make sure though, get ah-hold-of, the "Specification", for that "Exact" (mechanical) Fuel Pump, and Engine, etc...cuz, some Engines might need Less Fuel Pressure sometimes..............For most Carburetors, it's usually..."Under/less than"...10 PSI...oh and, don't get Too Low, or Fuel Starvation (in the carb's float bowl), it just might be....and......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Is there a special way to put it on? Is there a certain way the arm of the pump has to go in?
I just replaced the fuel pump in my 63 coupe. Even with pitting a little gas in the carb, it didn't want to start. I even put gas in carb a second time. And its never done that before. Usually I would just put a little gas in carb and it would start right up.
Have any ideas???? Thank you in Advance.... Dont want to take it back off just to put it in the same way as the first time
Greetings...Gabriel Martinez...…...Thanks for watching...…..If your mechanical type of fuel pump, has that long actuating lever, sticking out of it, then, you have to make sure, that, the flat side ("not" the U shaped/trough side), is making contact, with the eccentric (which is basically, a round metal piece, that is offset, to the camshaft's centerline), that, shall we say, "wobbles" up and down, whenever the camshaft is spinning, and, it is this wobbling motion, that makes the fuel pump's lever, go up and down, which in turn, causes the fuel pump's, pumping action...……Whenever I install, this type of fuel pump, I always make sure, to tilt the fuel pump's actuating lever, so the..."solid-flat side"...of the lever, ends up, making contact with, that eccentric, that I was mentioning earlier...…...If the fuel pump's lever, was installed properly, then, you should see, a "shine-ee" spot, on the solid side of the fuel pump's lever, where that metal eccentric was rubbing against it...…….Just look at your old fuel pump's lever, and you should be able to see a small area (wear spot) on it, where that eccentric, was rubbing on it...…….There are some fuel pumps, where you have to tilt them, quite a bit, so as, to make sure, that, the lever, gets installed, on the correct side of that eccentric, and sometimes, the fuel pump's main body, will only make full contact with the engine block, once the mounting bolts, get fully tightened down (just make sure, that, the fuel pump's lever, is on the "correct side" of the eccentric, or Ya might damage the fuel pump...!!!)………..Some Chevrolet/Chevy V-8 engines, might have a round metal rod, that gets inserted, before the fuel pump gets bolted on (no metal rod = no pumping, from the fuel pump...!!!)………..Good luck, and...…till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
If the original fuel pump arm was straight with only the curve at the end, but the new one looks like yours, does it matter? The old one barely worked somtimes, but then I got this one and put it on and it doesnt work at all. Took it off and put it on 5 times and don't know what to do.
Greetings...Vize_Iron.........In order to see what your fuel pump should look like, go over to Rockauto (car parts website)........Once you get there, just look up your vehicle's year, make, model, and engine size, then find on there, where there should be, (more then one) picture of your vehicle, engine's fuel pump........Then, compare your fuel pump's actuating arm, to the ones that you see on Rockauto's website.........Upon installation, make sure that, you put the fuel pump's actuating "Arm", onto the eccentric (wobbly diameter), on the "correct" side of the actuating arm (you might have to "tilt" the fuel pump a bit, before you bolt it down)........Look at your old/used fuel pump's actuating arm, for a worn/smooth, small area, where the eccentric was rubbing on it, in order to, be able to, install the actuating arm, on the correct side of, that, good ole eccentric........Good luck, and......Be safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings.........If it was the fuel pump causing a drop in mileage, I would think that it may be possible that your new fuel pump may be putting out too much pressure maybe?..........Check to see that your new fuel pump is rated at the correct pressure for your engine/vehicle, and that it's specifications are the same as the "Factory" installed fuel pump............Too much fuel pressure has been known to make a carburetor run on the rich side.
I will say only one thing, after running for about 15-20 minutes, it stalled. Could that be the sign of a failing fuel pump too?
Hey Rocky I have a 83 tbird 302 block that I bought and it came with a electric fuel pump. Its not in the tank and I have probably replaced it like 5 Times. HOw can I convert it to mechanical. Thanks
...Garage door Open!!!...The engine should run for a few minutes with the gasoline that is in the float bowl, without any more being supplied by the fuel pump..You have to watch at how the fuel comes out of the hose (and into the jar/bucket), not only Pressure, but the amount (volume) as well...In about 30 seconds to 1 minute, you should get about 1 or 2 pints at least, and the fuel should be flowing strongly as well (not spitting)...Look for the Specs for yours...Careful...Take care, my Friend
Great video!
you helped me recognize that low fuel output could also be due a defective inlet or outlet valve, in addition
Greetings...Rex O'Steen……….Thanks for watching...…...Even if, the fuel pump itself, is ok, then, there is usually a sock type of filter, that's on the end of the fuel line, that's inside of the gas tank, that might rarely get plugged up/dirty...…….Also, any and all, fuel filters, should be changed on a regular basis, in order to avoid any fuel starvation issues (seen that, been there, but didn't need a tow truck, at the time...lol)……….Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...a few years ago, I installed a brand new (top brand name) fuel pump, on an Oldsmobile engine, that was "faulty", right out of the box, that it came in...…...Worked, kinda ok, for a short time, and then, the engine would lose power, surge, then, almost quit completely...…….I figured that, one of its internal valves, malfunctioned/got stuck somewhat...……Before I took that new fuel pump back, and exchanged it, I put the old/original fuel pump, back onto the engine, and, it worked "Perfectly"...!!!...lol...……I though that, it would be a good idea, to install a new fuel pump, seeing as how, the old/original fuel pump, was very old, and had lotsa mile on it...…….Maybe it is true...???...as in..."they don't make 'em, like they used to"...!!!...lol...and...….till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow I took my mechanical pump for a 1970 Plymouth apart and it looks good. I sprayed the valves with carburetor cleaner and I think my problem is I did not tighten the two bolts to the block enough , as they were easy to remove. I have this bad habit of not tightening. I'm going to hook the pump up and try again. My thought is that the lack of tightness could have prevented the arm from completely moving, as there was a whimper of movement on the pressure tester. But I don't know, really, as the quality stuff and the fuel- I've not used ethanol, but I saw the term 'oxiginated' gas in a Hot Rod question, and maybe just having ethanol-free is not enough. My problem is my fault, as I don't start my car enough. I realize the younger generation is taking over. I'm 72, and glad to see you young guys taking care of your inheritance from the past.
...Ok, lets see if we can get your 302 running now...(with the old fuel pump that is on your engine)...Open Garage Door!...Fuel tank have gas in it?....It's time to "Prime" your carburetor with gasoline to get the engine to start, so the fuel pump will pump really fast (as opposed to just cranking the engine with the starter motor)....With engine Not Running, remove the top (lid) of the air cleaner that is on your carburetor...then, pour (or squirt) a small amount (about an ounce) of....(con't)
Hi @RockysRoadshow , i have a Cadillac Deville 1978, i am asking this question so may be you or an other youtuber can light me . For now a week my car is stoping when going down hill, i cant start it when going up hill also and when i press to much on the gaz pedal when on flat the engine gently stops. I am wondering if it's the fuel pump ( that i have not been able to locate on my car, i am having struggle to translate the manual from english to french and i dont understand all the technical words. ) or if it comes from the carburetor. When on a flat ground the car would start though and keep on running . Thanks a lot if you or anyone can give me any advice that would be really appreciated. I wish you all the best and thanks again for your great videos !!!
PS: I am living in California .
Greetings..charles derenne…………Thanks for the nice comment, and, thanks for watching...…….To me, it kinda sounds like, a fuel starvation problem, that's causing your engine's, not running, so well, problem...…….When was the last time, that, the..."Fuel Filters"...were changed...???...as there are probably two of them, as in, the larger one, might be found near the fuel pump, while the other smaller one, will probably be, just inside of, or, very close to, the carburetor...…….Might be...a clogged/plugged up fuel filter, or filters, as the case may be...a weak fuel pump...or, dirty jets or passage ways, inside of the carburetor, and rarely, it might also be, a lot of crud, that's plugging up the filter, that's on the end of the pickup pipe/tubing, that sucks up the gasoline, that's inside of the gas tank...…….Sometimes, it can be exhaust system related as well, as in, something, that is causing an exhaust flow "restriction", in the vehicle's exhaust system...……..A clogged up (restricted) catalytic converter, muffler, or resonator, can prevent the free flowing of exhaust gas, through the exhaust system, which will reduce power and performance, if it's not too bad, while something, like, an almost, totally plugged up, catalytic converter, can almost cripple an engine, so much so, that, Ya might not, even, make it through the intersection at all...!!!...yikes...……If it's not fuel related (which I doubt), then, Ya probably have the HEI (High Energy Ignition) Distributor (with, the Large size distributor cap on it), which, might, have to be checked out as well, possibly...…….Good luck, and......till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow i brought it to the shop , and it was in did as you just said the fuel filter that was well plugged with dirty things. They changed the sparks as well that were oily. Every when would you recommend to change the fuel filter just so i know and i will did it myself also, i have difficulties to locate its by the carburetor. thanks a lot for your message, you are a boss, happy belated thanksgiving.
Greetings...charles derenne………….Thanks for your good wishes, my Friend........If you have the little car owners manual, that came with your car, when it was brand new, then, you might find, the amount of time (in months or years), and/or, the mileage/kilometer intervals, as to when, things like filters, need to be changed, as well as, many other maintenance things that should be done, so, your car will have the best chance, at running very good, almost, all of the time...…….For something like a fuel filter, then, I usually change it, about, every 2 years, or, 24,000 miles (40,000 kilometers), whichever comes first...…….If your car, has a "Rochester" carburetor, then, it will usually have a small fuel filter, that is just inside of, the front of the carburetor, and, some are about 1 inch long, while others, are about 2 inches long, and both of them, are about 3/4 of an inch in diameter...…….There is usually a very "thin"..."seal or washer", that might be made out of plastic, or, gasket like material, and, if it gets damaged at all, while trying to replace the little fuel filter, that is inside of, the front of a Rochester carburetor, then, "gasoline", will probably start..."leaking"...from the front of the carburetor...!!!...……..Try to get a new seal (gasket)…"before"...trying to remove that little fuel filter, from the carburetor, just in case.........Sometimes, the nut (fitting), gets really stuck, to the (usually) metal fuel line (tubing), so, use penetrating oil, and go very easy, when trying to loosen that nut, or, sometimes, that metal fuel line (pipe), gets twisted, and damaged...!!!.........Good luck, and...…..till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I have a 1959 fuel pump with no pressure line / vacuum coming out from the top of it where there's two knobs only a fuel Outlet in a fuel Outlet out to the carburetor would I need that vacuum and my car is also stalling shuttering and I hit the gas pedal all the way down and it barely accelerates
Greetings...Cali Sav.........Thanks for watching........Well, I never worked on your 1959 type of fuel pump before........Some of them, being that old, might have also had a vacuum chamber, maybe for running the vacuum operated windshield wipers, maybe?.........If there are a number of bolts or screws, that you can easily see, that hold the different sections together, then, it's possible, that the fuel pump can be rebuilt, providing that, the new, needed parts are still available, as in, diaphragm/s, gaskets, etc. ........The website Rockauto (online parts store), might have, a new or remanufactured fuel pump for your vehicle, and possibly, maybe even some individual parts for your 1959 fuel pump as well, so, check them out if you're interested at all.........You can also, look on some website "Forums", for your exact vehicle, where you can ask some of those very smart and experienced people, a question, about, just about any topic, that pertains to your exact vehicle........As for your, not-so-good-running engine, then, it might be a vacuum leak, at the fuel pump or elsewhere, or maybe, it just might be, a split/leaking, or disconnected vacuum hose...???........or maybe, the carburetor is malfunctioning...air filter clean...???...fuel filter clean...???.........Has the ignition system been tuned up recently...???........Good luck, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I got this! Thank you!
Greetings...Brandy F............You're welcome, and, thanks for watching...........I'm glad, that you got..."this"...b-cuz, I'm guessin', that, I actually provided some useful information, in this video of mine, that would be of some help to others, like yourself, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I am having a fuel delivery problem myself. I have a Ford 302 with a four barrel carb. It sat in storage for about three months and I can't get any gas into the carb. There is no gas in the filter at all. What's the best way to test the fuel pump and the line itself?
Josh B I saw your old question here and wonder how you fixed the problem. I have the same problem now.
Does the fuel on the inlet from tank allow the fuel to flow back into the tank. Leaving the fuel filter empty.
Greetings.....Baradonna………..Thanks for watching...…….Well, if the carburetor, happens to be a Rochester carburetor, then, the little fuel filter (some are 1 inch long, and, some are 2 inches long, there-abouts), that fits into the carburetor itself, will usually have, a, shall we say..."anti-flow-back"...valve (round shaped, rubber-like flap), that's on one end of, that little fuel filter, that, as I see it, will prevent the gasoline, from flowing away, and down, from the carburetor, and hopefully, keeping the fuel line, full of gasoline, when the engine is not running...…….The mechanical type of fuel pump has two valves, inside of it, as in, one inlet valve, and, one outlet valve...…….As long as, one of those valves is closed, then, the gasoline, should stay in the fuel line, for quite a bit of time, I would think...…..If a carbureted engine..."has not"...been running, for, about a week or more, then, the gasoline, that was in the carburetor's float bowl, or bowls, as the case may be, will usually evaporate some-what (because of, the engine, remaining hot, after shut-down, for quite some time)……….So then, now the carburetor's float bowl/s are empty (no gasoline at all), and, the engine gets cranked over and over, until, that fuel pump, pumps enough gasoline, into the carburetor's float bowl/s, so the engine has enough gasoline, so it can start and run again...…….The Mechanical type of fuel pump, pumps gasoline, quite slowly, when the engine is only being cranked over, by the (electrical) starter motor, because of the low engine RPM's (Revolutions Per Minute), during engine cranking (as in, trying to start)………..If you are experiencing, a really long, cranking/engine starting time, then, try this...…….Try starting your vehicle, the..."very next day"...after, the engine was running last, and, if everything works, as good as it should be doing, then, the engine should start up..."very quickly"...!!!...…and......till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
if i thermo wrap my mechanical fuel pump due to it being on the side of the block and quarter inch from lower radiator hose will it help with vapor lock ?
Lower radiator hose won’t radiate enough heat to worry about
Took mine off mine was sucking thru the little weable hole and not the lines
Hi. I have a 78 Ford f150 351m. My gas tank filter is plugged up. I had replaced the fuel pump during diagnosis. I had it running pulling fuel from a gas can on the ground. I moved and had it towed recently. I'm trying to get it in the garage before snow falls but I can't get it started. The fuel pump isn't pumping fuel. There isn't much play in how it mounts to the block. Is my shaft missing the lever? Or is it too work to actuate the lever?? Thank you!
Greetings..Sean Fuhrman.........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching.........Well, if I was in the situation, that you described, then, here's what I would probably do, along with, a bit more information, added in as well...........Having the Vehicle outside, and away from any "open flame", such as a pilot light, in a furnace, or what-ever, or else "Boom"...!!!...it might be, and I hope not..........I would then, "disconnect" the "fuel line", from the gas tank side of the fuel pump...then...I would grab a rubber hose, oh, about 4 feet long, and stick it onto that fuel line, that was just "disconnected"...then..."remove" the "gas cap", so the gas tank can breathe freely...then...I would blow into that rubber hose, with some really strong lung pressure (Never, Ever, "Inhale", Gasoline Fumes or Gasoline, because that, in itself, can become "Deadly"...!!!), and, by doing so, I could then tell, whether or not, there is/was, a "Blockage", of any sort, which also includes, that (if present), the (possibly, plugged-up...???) "Filter", that's on the end of the pickup/fuel line, that's "inside" the gas tank (if "not" plugged-up, I can usually blow through, into the gas tank)..........If...???...there was some sort of "blockage", then, I'd say, that, there's a pretty good chance, that, my "strong", high air pressure, capable "lungs", would probably "dislodge", a fair amount of "crud", that was (theoretically), stuck onto, the outside, of that, "inside-the-gas-tank") fuel "Filter" (oh, and, musn't forget, to...keep my fingers crossed...!!!...lol)...........Gotta "make sure", that, the "correct" side of the fuel pump's "Lever", is rubbing against the "eccentric" (that be, a round diameter, that's off-set, to the center line of the camshaft's centerline, that results, in a "wobble", that makes the "Lever" on the fuel pump, go..UP...down...UP...down...which in turn, makes the fuel pump, well..."Pump"...if you will...lol)..............If Ya still have the "Old" fuel pump, you'll probably be seeing a "Shine-ee" spot on the actuating "Lever", where it was rubbing on the "Eccentric", and, Ya gotta make sure, that, the "New" fuel pump's "Lever"..."Is Not"..."rubbing", on the, shall we say..."Open U" or "Open/Trough side" of the Lever, because the fuel pump won't work right, and hopefully, no damage will result, from installing it "wrong"...............The Lever's "Spring", is usually Very "Strong", so, Ya just gotta make sure, that, Ya, "Tilt/Angle" the fuel pump's "Lever", so the "Full Metal" side of said Lever, ends up "making contact" with the "eccentric"..."Before"...!!!...Ya "tighten", the fuel pump's mounting..."Bolts or Nuts"...as the case may be............You can also try, putting some fuel system cleaner, in the gas tank, because, it should help soften up the "crud", that might be stuck onto the "filter" in the gas tank, and, also make sure, that, Ya have at least 2 gallons of gasoline in the gas tank, oh and, if Ya use some Cleaner, then, shake the "pick-em-up-truck" (like it was in a wind storm), as in...Up & Down (on the rear bumper)...and from...Side to Side...as well, which should create, a, shall we say, "Sloshing" action, of the gasoline/cleaner, that's, presumably in the gas tank, which, on a good day, might help to clean things up-ah-bit, hopefully, that is...........Are all of the "other" Fuel "Filters" (if any)..."clean-enough"...as well...??? (oh, and, by the way...todays word, is..."Blockage"...lol)...........To help "git-er-Started", I have a small squirt bottle, with a few ounces of gasoline in it...then...I "Prime" the carburetor (if there is one), by doing the following..........With the engine "cold", and "not running", I remove the Air Cleaner "Lid" (or what-ever)...then...I hold the "Choke Plate" (flap) open, with one hand, while I "squirt", a couple of tablespoons of gasoline, into each of the Primary (front?) throttle bores...then...re-install the air cleaner's "Lid", just in case the engine "backfires"...........If it doesn't keep running on the first try, then, try & try again (but can only be done, until the Battery says so...lol), oh, and, "don't crank" the engine's "starter motor", for very long, and also, give it a "rest/cool-down", between "starting attempts", or, Ya might "cook" the starter motor...!!!............If there's anything else, just give me a shout (or what-ever)..........Good luck, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
My 83 CJ-7 sits about 1 month between the times I crank it. I hate the time I have to let the starter turn the engine over. Could I install a 12 volt electric pump right prior to the mechanical pump. Would the mechanical pump allow the electric pump to push gas through it? I am told the electric pump will allow the mechanical pump to pull gas through the it. I only want to press a spring loaded switch and prime the carb so I don't have to work my starter so hard.
John Godwin Greetings John Godwin....Thanks for Your comment/question, and for watching too..............................................If it happens to be, the Longer then wanted...Cranking of Your engines Starter Motor...that has You concerned, then, there happens to be, a much more "Simple", and, much "Cheaper" way, to address, the, shall we say, "Over-Use", of Your engine's "Starter Motor"...........................................Here's the deal..........The reason that it takes so much Starter Motor "Cranking" time, is usually attributed to the "Evaporation" (or, maybe even a Leak?), of the Gasoline, that was in Your Carburetor's "Float Bowl", usually due to, having that poor ole Carburetor, sitting on Top of, or in near proximity, to a quite Hot Engine, that, when, shut down, still kept the engine compartment, nice-n-toasty, for quite some time, until all of that engine Heat, finally became, somewhat Equal, to the ambient Temperature, that Your Vehicle was parked in..............................................Now then, here's the "Cheap & Simple" way, to get Your Vehicle's Engine, Started, without prematurely, wearing out, Your engine's Starter Motor, as well as, helping to prevent, the running down, of Your vehicle's Battery, at the very same time..................................................All You need, is a "Small Squirt Bottle", that can contain a few Ounces (aka, small quantity), preferably, with a Lid or Cap on it, with some Gasoline in it...........then...........with the "Engine...Cold, and Not Running"...remove the Air Cleaner's Housing Lid, and Squirt, about a Table-Spoon or Two, of Gasoline...Into Each of the Primary Throttle Bores (Your Carburetor might have 1 or 2 primary throttle bores), while holding the "Choke Plate Open", with Your other Hand..............then.............replace Your Air Cleaner's Housing Lid, and Secure it in place (tighten the Wing-Nut maybe?)...........then..........Your Engine should Start...........if it Stalls, You can either, keep Cranking the Starter Motor...........or..........."Re-Prime" the Carburetor with the Squirt Bottle again, and Secure that Air Cleaner Housing Lid, once again, and hopefully, Your Engine will Stay Running.......................................................If You can see some Float Bowl "Vents", sticking up, on top of Your Carburetor, You can also, try to Fill the/those "Vents", to some-what "Fill the Float Bowl/Bowls with Gasoline, as the case may be, with again I say..."Engine Cold, and Not Running...!!!......................................................Also, it would be a very good idea, to have a Fire Extinguisher with-in reach...just in case...!!!..........................................In the event, that You still want to Install an "Electric Fuel Pump" in Your Vehicle's Fuel (system) Line, there are a number of things, to be aware of.......................................................First off, You'll have to make sure, that Your "Mechanical Fuel Pump" will not be a "Restriction to Gasoline Flow".........................................................The theoretical "Electric Fuel Pump", that You're considering..."Must Not", have..."Too Much (High) Fuel Pressure"...or it will be making Your Carburetor's "Float Bowl"...behave, just like a "Mini-Waterfall", only, instead of Water, it will be "Gasoline", Spilling out of the Top of Your Carburetor, due to the..."Much Too High Fuel Pressure"...that will, more then likely, be "Over-Powering", the Needle and Seat Assembly, inside Your Carburetor...!!!.................................................Also, the "Electric Fuel Pump", has to be able to "Allow Gasoline Flow", when it is not being fed, any Electricity as well...!!!...................................................I'm thinkin', that Your CJ-7, Engine's Fuel Pump, is probably, only putting out, oh, about, 4 to maybe 7 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch) Maximum, Fuel Pressure, so, make sure, that You "Verify" Your Engine's "Factory Installed Fuel Pump's"..."Fuel Pressure"...!!!......................................................Then, due to the, as I see it, the amount of "Crud/Debris", that's usually hiding "Inside the Gas Tank", especially, that of an older vehicle, I would like to see, a "Fuel Filter" installed..."Before" any Fuel Pump, or, it could become, quite the Problem...!!!.....................................................Then..."Electrical Safety" has to be considered as well...!!!.........................There, as I see it, should be an "Electrical Relay, and Fuse/Breaker"...in the Electrical "Circuit", that is "Supplying", the needed Voltage and Amperage, that the "Theoretical/Hypothetical"...Electric Fuel Pump requires, to make it...do its thing.....................................................As I see it, if a "Carburetor Equipped" Engine, was Started and Run..."Every Single Day"...then, barring any abnormalities...that..."Carburetor Equipped Engine"...should..."Fire Right Up"...at the first turn, of the Ignition Key...!!!....................................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...No Gasoline in the Carburetor's Float Bowl, is like tryin' to drink more Beer out of a "Can...Bottle...or Glass"...when it's..."Bone Dry-n-Empty"...!!!...lol................................................You, my Friend, seem to have, quite a few "Options", placed before You..............................................................Now, it's all up to You, so please..."Choose Wisely"...lol.............................................To avoid having a Camshaft Lobe or Two...get Destroyed, or, maybe having an Engine Seal go Dry, and start leaking Motor Oil...always remember, the "More Often", a Vehicle's Engine is Run, the Better, as, the Only Way, that the "Inside" of an Engine gets "Lubricated", is when the Engine is "Running"...!!!..............................................Engine "Exhaust Fumes" are "Deadly", so, make sure, that You have plenty of Fresh Air and Ventilation, around Your Vehicle, when-ever the "Engine is Running"...!!!..................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Very good description. You are correct. I have my jeep at a MTN home that I only get to once a month. By the time I get there the gas is all out of the Carb. I was shooting starter fluid in the carb to crank it but since it was water based the carb rusted on me and I had to get it remanufactured. I don't want to do that again. Ha Ha.... I am scared to have that starter run for long periods of time since the fly wheel teeth are not the best and over time my starter teeth will wear down. Since I only drive it about 1 mile once a month the starter should last a long time if I don't over start it. My wife doesn't like the idea of pouring gas in the carb. She would like the idea of a primer button. Less man work for her if she had to crank it for the first time to drive me off the MTN to the emergency room or something. This 12 volt electric pump would prime the carb then after the engine started the new mechanical pump would run as it was built to. The electric pump is 3 to 6 PSI. My 1983 jeep is old so I have recently replaced all my rubber fuel lines and tank and guage indicator in the tank and fuel pump and fuel filter so I should have little to no rust or junk in the system.
If I were to install the electric pump prior to the mechanical pump pushing 3 to 6 psi into the mechanical pump do you think the fuel would flow out of the mechanical pump to the Carb?
Thanks for your WISDOM. :-)
John Godwin Greetings John Godwin....You are welcome, for, what You referred to, as...my wisdom........................Call it what You will, (and I thank You, for Your very kind, choice of words), but, just about everything, pertaining to Cars, Trucks, and just about anything that is mechanical in nature, and somewhat tangible as well, has, shall we say, grabbed my interest, attention, and curiosity as well, and away I go, exploring, checking-out, reading about, tinkering with, and, last but not least, by me, doing the repairs and adjustments, on just about anything, that I manage to get my hands on, I do save an abundance of money, by doin' it myself (and probably learn quite a bit, at the very same time!...lol)....................................................Hmmmm...still more options, to maybe consider..............................................You could just, "Prime" the Carburetor, with the gasoline squirt bottle..."One Time"...upon Your arrival, at Your Home in the Mountains, then, as I see it, as long as You started Your Vehicle, every other day, there probably wouldn't be the need, to "re-prime" the carburetor, because, I'm quite sure that, Your Carburetor's Float Bowl, will have enough gasoline in it, to have it..."Start" right up, at the turn of Your ignition key..............................................I've used the, "Prime the Carburetor, with the Gasoline Squirt Bottle", for many, Many Years, and, it has never Failed me, as long as the Engine was in good running order to begin with...............................................Just remember to Replace and Secure the Air Cleaner's Housing Lid, right after You Prime the Carburetor with Gasoline....................................................Also, are You using the..."Recommended Starting Procedure"...that You should see, in Your..."Vehicle's Owners Manual"...???.........................................................As, in most cases, when dealing with Starting most Carburetor equipped Engines, the Actual Starting Procedure, can be quite Different, depending on, if the Engine is being..."Cold Started"...or..."Warm Started"...and the..."Type of Carburetor Choke Mechanism"...that is engineered/installed on, the Carburetor in question"..................................................If the additional "Electric Fuel Pump's"..Newly...."Wired-in, Electrical Circuit"..."Is Not"..."Engineered and Installed"..."100% Correct"...and..."Inspected by a Qualified/Certified Technician", as I see it, You might (literally) be..."Playing with Fire"...!!!..............................................Sure, You might be thinkin', that I'm being a bit paranoid..but...have You ever seen a..."Vehicle go up in Flames"...???................That my Friend..."Is Not"...something, that I'd wish on Anyone...............................................If You are still contemplating..."Modifying"...Your Vehicle, with that..."Additional Electric Fuel Pump"..."Make Sure"...that, You have..."Any and All"..."Modifications"...to Your Vehicle..."Inspected"...by a..."Qualified Technician"..."Because I Care"...and..."It's the Right Thing to Do"...and also..."Breaking any Laws"...in any..."Way, Shape or Form"...is something that..."Just Ain't Right"...and..."Has Repercussions"...to say the least.............................................For Safety's Sake, have it done, by a "Professional"............................................I hope, all goes well.....................................................Be "Safe", take care, and have a good one.
Hello; when the fuel pumps are bad do they also make a noise? have a 1975 F150 and just placed a new fuel pump and added two filters due to some left over dirt from the tank one before the carb and the other before the pump; but!!!! for some particular reason gas is not passing thru; have no idea. Just bought 4 days ago another fuel.pump and besides making a loud clunk noise its sucking gas intermittently? Any sugestions maybe besides pulling down the gas tank again????
Greetings...Jimmy T............Thanks for watching............Well, I've never had a Mechanical type of Fuel Pump, make any noise, that I was able to hear, maybe, because of the noise, that, the running engine, and/or, the starter motor made, while cranking the engine over, that, would have, probably been louder, than any noise, that the (mechanical, type of) fuel, was able to produce.............It's very rare, to have a faulty, brand new (mechanical, type of) fuel pump, as, I've only had "1" faulty/defective, brand new (top brand name, mechanical, type of) fuel pump, out of all, of the fuel pumps, that, I've ever replaced.............That "Clunk" noise, that you heard, might be due to the following............Wrong fuel pump, for your "Exact" vehicle and engine...or...the fuel pump's actuating "Lever", got installed on the Wrong side of the "Eccentric" (that be, a, 2-to-3 inch round/diameter, that is on the camshaft, that is also offset, to the camshaft's center-line, which, kinda wobbles up and down, when the camshaft is spinning, and is responsible for, making the fuel pump's Lever, go up and down, causing the, shall we say, pumping action)...or...the Eccentric, might be damaged, or maybe, kinda slipping, if it happens to be the bolt-on type, and maybe, not turning at the same RPM's as the camshaft is...???.............Here's what I usually do, when I install, a new (mechanical, type of) fuel pump............I take the (already removed) Old fuel pump, and put it Beside the New one, to make sure, that, the two of them, "Match" each other, as in, the actuating Lever's, "Length and Bends" (if any, that is), and I do this, while looking downwards, from the Top, as well as, from the Side view, to make damn sure, that, the actuating Lever, is, a, shall we say, Perfect "Match" (or maybe, if not, some not wanted Damage can occur, if the wrong shape, and/or, length of actuating Lever, happens to get Forced, way too much, by the spinning Eccentric, that's on the camshaft...!!!)............Before installing the fuel pump, I usually stick a fairly long length, of, flexible hose (rubber, or neoprene/fish aquarium stuff), onto, the fuel line, that leads to the gas tank...then...I remove the gas cap (cuz, even the good ole vented, type of gas cap, needs a few PSI/pounds of pressure, to make-em open up)...then...I Blow on that added Hose ("Never", inhale/suck on the hose, cuz, gasoline, or, gasoline fumes are "Deadly"...!!!), oh, and, have lots of fresh air/ventilation, around the vehicle, and, "No" sparks or flames of any kind, what-so-ever, or, "Boom"...!!!.............This, "Able to Free-ly", blow thru to the gas tank, is telling me, that, there is, "Not a Blockage", holding things up............There's usually, an, "in-the-gas-tank", pre-Filter (sometimes, called a Sock, which is usually, a hollow, fine screen/tube-like shaped thing, sometimes, which might be, a kind-of nylon material, that might resemble, a very "fine" mesh/house screen door, type of thing, or maybe, a sponge-like/solid, possibly), that's usually attached, to the end of the fuel line, inside of the gas tank, so, larger particles of rust, crud, etc., don't make their way, into the fuel pump.............Also, if there happens to be a Filter, of some type, that is in/on the carburetor itself (as in, some of the Fords, used to have, a fairly long, metal, screw-into-the-carburetor-body, type of fuel filter, and yes, I did have one of these critters, plug up solid on me, some time ago...!!!...lol).............To Test, the fuel output flow, I have the fuel pump installed on the engine, and, the fuel line from the gas tank, connected to the fuel pump...then...I attach, a, quite long, flexible hose, to the Output side of the fuel pump, and have that long/flexible hose, going over the fender, and, into a bucket or pail, so I can actually See, how good, the, shall we say, gasoline Flow-rate is (if any, that is...???)...and...(can be observed, cranking with the starter motor, or, with the engine running, if in fact, the engine starts, and runs on any gasoline, that's still left in the carburetor's float bowl, well, until it's empty, that is), oh, and, remember now, lots of fresh air/ventilation, and, No sparks or flames...or...Boom...!!!..............Also, if ever trying to remove the "Ring", that secures the fuel pickup/fuel gauge sending unit, that goes into that hole/opening, in the gas tank, to Always Use a "Brass" Rod or Punch, with the hammer, or what-ever, to avoid creating any "Sparks", anywhere near the gasoline, or, gasoline fumes, that are in the gas tank...!!! (Never use a Steel Rod or Punch...!!!)...and also, have a Fire Extinguisher handy, as well as, do it Outside, if Ya can, to avoid, possibly, Burning the house or garage down...!!!...and, I hope not...........Have a look at some pictures on the internet, or, pictures, that, some of the online automotive parts stores have, for your "Exact" vehicle and engine, that way, you'll probably be able to see what all of the parts look like, some-what............So, Make sure, that you have the "Exact/Correct" fuel pump for your Pick-em-up-Truck, or there's gonna be, Trouble-in-pair-ah-dice (so to speak)............Once you have checked out, what I was sayin', just above, and, you have success or other-wise, you can let me know, how you made out, well, if you care to, that is.............Good luck, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
mr. gilbreath squad
Greetings...kate lafrance………Thanks for watching...…...Well now, please, be so kind, as to, elaborate on, the words that you posted, in your comment, thanks, and......till next time...…Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thats really helping thnx (y)
Mine is on the left I have a 460 engine
im a do it yourselfer and iv got a 75 lincoln with a 460 big block 3 ports on the fuel pump the shaft that connects to the motor dosnt seem to have a rod that goes on top iv herd from a friend that all u do is shove it in and go the pump i got is supposed to be better then the standard but the shaft goin in is strait not curved is that going to be a problem cause i dont want to force it in iv got it under the crank shaft but im real leery cause of the tension ur thoughts good sir oh and besides the obvious it seems smaller in width and design then the standard the guy i bought it from said itll pull in more fuel
jacc boss Greetings jacc boss....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/questions as well................................That "Rod" that You were referring to, might it be, that, You are thinking of a Chevy (Chevrolet), V-8 Engine's Fuel Pump, where that "Rod", that we are talkin' about, gets placed in the Chevy V-8's Engine Block, Before the Fuel Pump gets Bolted-On perhaps...???..............................As far as I understand it, Your 460 Cubic Inch (Displacement), V-8 Lincoln Engine, probably has, what is referred to, as a "Mechanical-Type of Fuel Pump"..."Eccentric"...that works, pretty much like a Camshaft Lobe works, only, this "Eccentric", is Round (shaped), and is Installed "Off-Center", to the Camshaft's Center-Line, which makes this "Eccentric", work, pretty much the same way, that a Camshaft Lobe does, which, in essence, is to, just make things go..."Up and Down"...so to speak...lol.......................................When it comes to, "Re and Re-ing" (Removing and Replacing), an Old, or Faulty, Mechanical, type of Fuel Pump, on a Stock/Factory, Un-Modified Engine, I always make sure, that the "New" Fuel Pump, that is to be Installed, is One, that is recommended by the Factory/Manufacturer, of that particular Vehicle and Exact Engine, and, any Fuel Pump that I Purchase/Buy and Install, is always Made, by "Reputable"..."Major Brand"..."Manufacturer"...to insure, that I have a much better chance, at having that "New" Fuel Pump..."Fit and Operate Correctly"...and..."Not Damage the Engine, or, the New Fuel Pump"..."In Any Way...What-So-Ever"...!!!...................................I'm hearin'..."Alarm Bells"...go-in off, just hearing, about how You were sayin', that, the, shall we say..."Lever/Arm"...on that Fuel Pump, that You are thinkin' of Installing..."Does Not Match Exactly"...the..."Original Lincoln/Factory/Manufacturers"...Fuel Pump..."Lever/Arm''s"..."Shape/Length/Width/Bend/s"...and to me, it's kinda like..."Gambling"...and most times..."The House" (Gambling Establishment) "Usually Wins"...and...You (and I)..."Lose"...lol......................................There is a "Wear Pattern", that You should be able to see, on the Fuel Pump's "Lever/Arm, that was in Your 460 Engine, and, it is usually showing up, as a "Shine-ee Silver Color", and, that should have a "Matching", Smooth Shine-ee..."Ring"...showing on the "Eccentric", if the Fuel Pump was not installed, and, You were able to look into the "Cavity", where the Fuel Pump's Lever/Arm goes into, with a Flash-Light, possibly...................................If, and I say if, that Fuel Pump, with the Lever/Arm, that "Does Not Exactly Match the Factory Original One", can, as I see it, do at least "2-Things"..................................One is where, that "Not Matching Lever/Arm"..."Does Not Move the Fuel Pump's Diaphragm Enough"...and might cause..."Low Fuel Pressure and Low Fuel Volume"...as well......................................If, the Not Exactly Matching...Lever Arm...comes to a "Stop", and the..."Eccentric"...tries to..."Force"...that Lever Arm, past its "Range of Travel"...there, very well, might be, some rather "Expensive Damage", both, to the Engine, and maybe, to the Fuel Pump as well, as a Result of, just that...!!!...and, I hope not....................................Here's one for Ya.............See if that "Guy", will give You, in "Writing", an "Unconditional Guarantee", that, "if", that Fuel Pump, that He Recommends, for You to Install, on Your 460 Cubic Inch V-8 Engine..."Causes Any Damage, What-so-Ever"...to Your Engine, oh and, that Fuel Pump, that He's tryin', to get You to Install, on Your Engine as well...??? (Gee, I wonder what the odds of that, just might be...???...lol)...............................The Original Equipment/Factory/Manufacturer's "Fuel Pump", was "Designed and Engineered"..."Specifically"...for Your Engine, while it is in a "Stock and Un-Modified", shall we say, "State of Tune", and, things may very well Change, once the Engine in question, gets "Up-Graded", with...."Lots of Go Fast Parts"...which, just might require, a more, shall we say..."Beef-ee Fuel Pump"...that might, just be needed, to..."Feed-that-Really-Thirst-ee-Gas-Guzz-lin-Very Powerful-Newly-Modified-Engine"...!!!...lol........................................So then, there You have it, well, for now, that is.................................If You have any further, concerns or questions, at all, just leave a comment/question or two, under any of my RUclips Videos, and, I'll do what I can, to help You out...............Till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
That's great into for any and all dyi gearheads! As far i know all chevy engines use a actuation rod to operate the fuel pump(the chevy inline4's I'm not 100% sure on). Now a question, on mopars how is the fuel pump activated?
Chris Gropp Greetings Chris Gropp....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/question as well................Mopars (Motor-Parts, I think?...be-in, Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, etc.), and many, of the Other, Older Engine Makes, in North America, as well, will probably have, what is known, as a..."Fuel Pump Eccentric"... that Actuates/Moves, the Mechanical type of Fuel Pump's, "Arm/Lever" that, for the most part, gets "Bolted", onto the Engine's "Camshaft", which Rotates at 1/2 the Revolutions, that the Engine's Crankshaft, Spins/Rotates at, due to the, Timing Chain's, 2 Sprockets, 2 to 1 Reduction Ratio (aka, 2 Revolutions of the Crankshaft, equals, 1 Revolution of the Camshaft)..........................This Eccentric, is actually a "Round Diameter", that is "Offset", in Relation, to the Camshaft's "Center-line" (from, end to end), that will make, the "Eccentric", shall we say, "Wobble", Up and Down, when-ever the Camshaft, that it's Bolted to, Spins/Revolves...................When this "Eccentric" Rotates, and Wobbles (goes Up and Down), it is this Motion, when in Contact with, the Mechanical Fuel Pump's "Arm/Lever", that will make the Mechanical Fuel Pump...well...Pump...!!!...lol..............Just type in...Fuel Pump Eccentric...into Your Browser/Internet...Search Box...and...select...Images or Pictures...and, there should be lots, did I say LOTS of Pictures, of the (Mechanical, type of) Fuel Pump..."Eccentric"...for You to have a look-see at..........................Till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
1987 Dodge ram50. 2.6
how do you tell if the push rod on my fuel pump is actually hitting the lever. arm on pump
Greetings...Jonah Haynes..........Thanks for watching...........Well, about the only engine, that I can think of, that actually had a "push rod", that made contact with, and moved the mechanical type of fuel pump's actuating "lever" (or arm, if you will), would be, a good ole Chevy (Chevrolet) V-8 Engine, otherwise, there wasn't a "push rod" at all, in any of the other engines that I worked on (most being, a Chevy, Ford, Dodge, or AMC/American Motors engine)...........I be thinkin', that, if your engine, actually is a "Chevy" V-8, then, about the only way, that I can imagine, that, the "push rod" is not making contact with the fuel pump's actuating lever, is that, the "push rod"..."was not"...installed in the engine block at all/in the first place...!!!............Some folks, might coat a "push rod" (for a Chevy V-8), with some grease, so it would stay-put, and not slide out, before the fuel pump gets installed/bolted to the engine block, as I recall...........All of the other engines, that I worked on (not a Chevy V-8, or maybe, that Mazda rotary engine, that I once messed with), would usually have, the fuel pump's actuating "lever", making direct contact, with an "eccentric" (that be, a round diameter, that was offset to the camshaft's centerline), that would wobble, causing the fuel pump's lever, to go...UP...down...UP...down...when-ever the engine was running, or being cranked/started..........In the case of a Chevy V-8 engine, where I (hypothetically), wanted to know, whether or not, a "push rod", was actually "hiding" inside the engine block (or not), then, I'd probably do a very basic, fuel pump (gasoline)..."output" (pumping ability) test............Having the Vehicle parked "Outside", in the fresh air, because an engine's exhaust gas is "Deadly", I would then, remove the fuel line from the carburetor, and, plug a rubber hose (oh, about 4 feet long or more) onto it, then place, the other end of that rubber hose in a bucket, then, start the engine (it should run for a minute or two, maybe more, on the gasoline, that was (presumably), still in the carburetor's float bowl/s , and then watch, how good (or not...???), the flow of gasoline was, that was (hopefully), coming out of that rubber hose, that was held over the bucket/pail..........If there was a good flow of gasoline, coming out of the end of that rubber hose, then, all is good, and, if not, then, maybe, just maybe, that "push rod", might not have been installed, possibly...???...lol.............If you can tell me, a few things, about your vehicle, as in...Year...Make...Model...Engine size, etc, then, I'll be able, to be, a bit more specific, and a whole lot, less generic, with the information, that I'll be able to provide you with...thanks, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hie boss. I have a mazda 323 b6 engine and my pump is giving me problems. If i try to repair the one i have and fail where can i get a new one? Im in Zim
Greetings...Munyaradzi Mhishi...........Thanks for watching............If you need to get a new fuel pump, then, first, try phoning a few automotive parts places, that are in the area where you live............If you don't have any luck with the phone calls, then, there are lots of automotive parts places (businesses) world-wide, as well as Ebay (for different countries as well), and, you can order the new fuel pump online (with a computer, smart phone, or maybe over the phone/with your voice, sometimes), and have it shipped (delivered) to the address of your choosing..............Here are a few things, to be aware of, when-ever ordering something online............Be very careful with your personal information, and the form of payment as well..........You can join/sign-up with Paypal or its equivalent, or, possibly use something like, a very low limit credit card, to protect yourself (just in case).............Make sure, to check the, shall we say, shipping time, as in, how long it will take, for your new fuel pump to arrive............Also, pay very close attention to, the shipping cost itself, b-cuz, sometimes, it can be very high...!!!.............So, I hope everything works out ok for you..............Good luck, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hi I️ have a 70 mustang I️ replaced the fuel pump but there’s no pressure it was sitting for like two months
Greetings...ulfrogger3..........Thanks for watching.........These old school "mechanical" type of fuel pumps, have to "pull" the gasoline, all the way from the gas tank, through a quite small (in diameter)...(usually made of steel), tubing (pipe), all the way up-to the fuel pump, and from the fuel pump, (usually) up to the carburetor, it (the gasoline) goes..........The "Key" here, is that the Mustang (car...not horse...!!!...lol), sat for quite some time (2 months)...........The gasoline, that was in the carburetor's float bowl, or bowls, as the case may be, will usually "disappear" (like, it evaporates), and the engine doesn't have any gasoline to burn, well, until there is quite a bit of gasoline, once again, being pumped into the float bowl/s, that is............Here's what I do, when-ever I want to start a vehicle, that's been sitting for a while, that has a carburetor on its engine, along with, the good ole mechanical type of fuel pump, bolted onto the engine..........I have a small squeeze bottle, with a few ounces of gasoline in it, and, I remove the carburetor's air cleaner "lid", and squirt about 2 or 3 tablespoons of gasoline, into each primary throttle bore, and sometimes, I have to open the choke plate, with (my other) hand, if it's in the closed position..........Then, I replace the air cleaner (housing's) "lid", in case the engine "backfires"..........Then, if the Carb has an automatic choke on it, I push the gas pedal down once, or more if you like..........Then, the engine will usually fire-up, and now, the mechanical fuel pump is pumping much faster, while the engine is running, as opposed to, how slow the gasoline gets pumped, at the much slower, engine "cranking" speed...........Sometimes, I might have to repeat, the, shall we say..."Priming" routine, with a few more squirts of gasoline from the good ole "engine priming" squeeze bottle, if the engine doesn't keep running from the first attempt..........A while back, I had a "Faulty" (hardly worked at all), top brand name mechanical fuel pump, and, the car barely made it home (just a few miles away), so, that's a (rare) possibility perhaps...???...........Are the Fuel "Filters" clean (enough)...???............There's usually a fuel filter in the gas tank, that doesn't need any help usually, well, unless it gets plugged up (quite rare), just so Ya know...........Then, there's usually a fuel filter, in, or very close to the carburetor, and maybe another one, a bit closer to the fuel pump possibly.............Maybe, one (or more), fuel filters, might be "plugged-up", perhaps...???...(if plugged-up really bad, the engine will usually starve for gasoline)............Remember "Safety", as in, No Gasoline inside the house or building, if there's an open flame of any kind, like a gas pilot light, or Boom, and I hope not..........If the gasoline "Priming" method doesn't work for you, just let me know..........Good luck, and........till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
appriciate the video. thank you. the more you know about cars, the more you can please the wife or girlfriend when one breaks down. eh heh. anyhow thanks.
Greetings.........You might be able to please the better half if you have a mechanical fuel pump in your car.......but.......if you are driving a newer car with fuel injection, they have an electric fuel pump inside the gas tank!!!!!!!!...........so......maybe.......keep your cell phone battery charged.........so.......You can call a tow truck if that electric fuel pump quits!........lol.........Take care, and have a good one..................Rocky.
how 2 install .................sm bolt long bolt?
Greetings...spymaine89........Thanks for watching.......Sorry, I can't help you out with the lengths of the bolts.......What I do when I take something apart, is to make a picture with a pen and paper, as to where a short or long bolt was installed originally.......You can also take a picture or video with your phone, that way, you can see what went where, when it was all together, and....be safe, take care, and have a good one.
Man I hope that’s all that’s wrong with my Rv
Like!
Greetings...Bruce Byrnes...……..Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too.
lever not leever!
Mi car run for 15 min n cut off
Thank you!