Part 11: Power Windows Installation - My 76 Mazda RX-5 Cosmo Restoration
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- I now present episode 11 of my '76 Mazda RX-5 Cosmo restoration. This episode deals with the task of installing the AutoLoc PW4650 universal power window kit. This kit includes motorized actuators which rotate the existing manual window cranks, driving the manual regulator and thus converting it to power without the need to fit an entirely new window regulator. Additionally it includes all wiring and switches (not installed yet), and mounting brackets. As it is a universal kit, it is universally wrong for every application and must be customized to fit. The installation was straightforward though time consuming. I have to admit, this episode is a monstrosity and quite a bit longer than normal. But for good reason, because I didn't want to do a "To be continued" as the next episode will be quite special. Included in this part: custom fitting AutoLoc universal power window actuators, making cutting channels into the inner door for space, patching and finishing off the channels with welding and sheet metal, cutting sheet metal from templates, media blasting before painting, making brackets for actuators, a surprise at the end.
i watched your episode of door welding and got addicted to your show.. now i'm watching every episode. good job :)
This video was great, not too long some of us (well me) need the step by step. I like that you showed every small detail to complete what looked to be a professional install to me. Thanks
You do amazing work!!! In fact a little overkill since it is inside the door.
I would highly recommend you to everyone.
Fantastic!
It's going to be a bit of work to use the generic Painless harness since many of them are designed for GM connections, but it's just wiring so I doubt there will be too much of an issue adapting the Cosmo controls and switchgear. Much of it is being replaced anyway (Vintage Air for the heater/AC, Megasquirt EFI, etc.) so the interfacing to the car should be at a minimum. Just headlights/brake lights/signals/key switch and a few other minor items.
@PoProstuKarol They are called "rivnuts" or "nut serts". Basically, they are a rivet style insert with threads. A hole gets drilled, the rivnut inserted, then the tool compresses it against the panel, locking it in place. A very convenient way to add a threaded hole where needed without having to weld in nuts or bungs.
@dirtymoe77 I purchased it from my local fastener store. They had it in stock. It is basically just a strong bolt, with a bushing that fits around it. You can probably rig something similar up with any old bolt of the correct size and then a matching bushing. Or get a nut and then drill the threads out. Put a washer between the bolt head and nut. I've installed a few that way and it works fine, but takes a little practice.
The limits are set by the stop pads on the existing regulator. Even OEM power regulators don't really have an electrical start/stop unless the windows are automatic.
Haven't done anything with door panels yet (the interior is a long way off) but since I'm making my own, I will just take into account the bulge needed for the shaft and work it into the design. The kit does come with plastic plugs to cover the holes in OEM panels however. They would look...OK. Cover them with fabric to match the door panel and they would blend in nicely.
This is the first video of yours that i see and i have to say, very nice video!
I especially like the time given to detail. The cutting of screws and and other parts.
Nice clean installs. Good luck!
That little rivet too is amazing, i love how it works.
I really enjoy watching your videos they are really entertaining to watch and it's great to see how cars are built/restored from top to bottom.
Keep up the great progress i can't wait for the next installment =)
"Much like the best kind of girlfriend, these brackets include many different sized holes and are quite bendy" - best line ever!!
nice attention to detail! I like the fact you made the metal channel in door.
A 97 Dodge Dakota probably had power windows as a factory option, so it may be best just to check eBay or a local wrecking yard to see if you can get a set of factory power window regulators. They probably just bolt right in and the wiring is likely already in the doors.
this project has been going on for so many years I forget how Aaron did certain jobs so I rewatch them while waiting 4-12 months between updates
A bit expensive, I agree. But considering the amount of labor saved by avoiding dealing with the stock stuff, it's worth it. Plus, modern blade fuses, labelled wires, new connectors, etc. And all the aftermarket parts harnesses will integrate nicely as well.
Aaron, I think you posted a fine video on this matter. I bought the same kit and it did not come with instructions :-( Yeah, I could've dove in and figured it out but hey! I got the internet and RUclips! You covered everything well. Glad you removed the glass to do your work and those clinch-style threads that you impacted in are awesome! THANKS!!!
Glad to help. I think I received one sheet of instructions. Of course that's the beauty of universal kits: universally wrong for every application.
I did just that at Lowes and got a bunch of coooool reactions but no one who had seen them. finally found a place tho. ended up getting well nuts that replace the rubber gromets and hardware and look like they will work great too.
Universally wrong and it's your job to make it fit.. the best no nonsene philosophy I've ever heard!
BEST video about installing power windows!! Thanks!!
People like you must be rewarded.... Very nice video, nice instructions and nice quality..Thmubs up///////
loved watching it, wonder whats in the plastic bag ... hmmm.... didnt know it was so interesting to see how someone putting stuff into a door lol
@1SWEETRX7 Thank you! I was worried people would find it too long. I'm going to try and keep things at the 15 minute level. Though the next one will be long as well. It turned out to be a bit more work than I thought to make the power window actuators fit nicely, but was worth it in the end. Now the interior door panels will sit flat.
Best tutorial ever for power windows
Great job love it but I would like to see how to did the wiring pls
I haven't actually fully wired it yet, because the car is not yet fully wired. When I do it will be integrated into my own wiring harness, controlled by a BCM (body control module / body ECU). So I don't think the wiring will be much help to most people as they likely just want to use a switch/button.
@StanleyMarcelin It's going to be possible, for sure. There may even be a bolt in kit (by AutoLoc or other manufacturers) depending on the year. Universal actuators like the ones in this video could always be made to fit but if there is a bolt in set available, go that route. Or, maybe power windows were an option for you year (or a similar year) and you could use OEM window regulators? They may bolt right in or bolt in with minor mods.
@Krikke000 I have not done the wiring yet but it will be easy. The AutoLoc kit comes with a full harness and a set of switches, as well as a wiring diagram. I'll be modifying mine a little but for most installations, no modifications should be needed.
It would do the job fine. However for you Malibu, you should check to see if there were OEM power windows available. There probably were and the OEM window regulator would bolt right in without needing any fabrication. If not, then there are probably aftermarket direct fit regulators for the Malibu.
I love your attention to detail dude!
@kalargyi If I didn't notch the door, the actuator cable run would have sat 1/4" above the level of the sheet metal. The result would have been that the door panel would not fit flat. As I installed it, no component of the actuator is above the level of the sheet metal so the panel still fits flat. It's the little details that make the end product go together so much better.
I purchased them directly from AutoLoc but there are many suppliers (and eBay). Just for demonstration in this video I ran the windows via battery power however the kit comes with a wiring harness and set of switches. I'll be doing the final wiring when I wire everything else up in the interior.
I think I'm going to use a generic Painless Wiring harness for the Cosmo, so I have a separate body harness that is brand new, and then the Megasquirt harness for the EFI. Slimming stuff down is often more trouble than it's worth, in my opinion. Spending all that time and work on 30+ year old wiring.
Sand blaster, TIG welder, pneumatic tools... with the equipment you got you could probably just build the car from scratch! J/K that's a great job there! Keep it up!
If only I had infinite time, a car from scratch would be on the table.
aaroncake I'll drink to that!!!
@spectowin FCs are easy because all you need are the power window regulators from a model with power windows. They bolt right in. Then either use the factory switchgear or your own. And yes, my drill rocks.
@yerboogieman Um, it's a rivnut tool. There are a number of different types. The little one I use is basically a collar that is held steady with a wrench and presses against the rivnut flange while the bolt is tightened to compress the rivnut. There are also tools available that look like a pop-rivet tool. A Google for "rivnut tool" will turn up a bunch of them. You can even make your own with a few nuts and washers.
this helped me a ton. going to be installing these in a dodge ram 1500 this week. also picked up locking kit.
@mike240se As mentioned in the video, they are "rivnuts" or "nutserts". Probably not available in most automotive stores, but you can find them as well as the installation tool at the local fastener store.
thanks for teaching me how to use the dremel.. no more muscle powerd sheet metal cutters or clumsy grinder...
OHH awesome man! I just saw all you episodes and was fascinated... :O
It's really good... I will be wacthing your progress...
Keep it...I will be waiting...
@idusclothing Picture a DPDT switch with contacts on the bottom like a 6 dice. Middle two are the fixed contacts which go to the window motor. Connect top right outer pin to lower left outer pin, then same for top left to bottom right (like an X). Connect 12V and ground to either the two bottom or two top pins. You've now configured a DPDT switch to reverse polarity on the motor. :-) Gets a bit more complicated with two switches per motor like OEMs do. FYI, Autoloc kit includes full wiring.
@Vacmasterthegreat I bought mine direct from AutoLoc. $70 is actually a good price as long as it is a quality kit. Some of the eBay kits are VERY poor, some are almost exactly what you get in the AutoLoc kit. It stands to reason that AutoLoc eitehr sells to a bunch of other people, or buys from a supplier that also sells to others. The AutoLoc kit is more than $70 for sure though, but at least there's no risk of ending up with junk.
Yep, I'll be starting to order the expensive stuff next week. Turbo and hardware, Megasquirt and related, etc. Sheet metal isn't expensive material wise, but I'd hate to think what a body shop would have charged for the labor of what I've done so far.
Great video Aaron! I feel confident installing this on my ford ranger thanks!
On your Ranger, it might be easier to obtain the regulators from a model with power windows and swap them in.
@FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR They are referred to as "Nutserts", "Rivnuts" or a few other names. Basically they are a rivet with threads in the middle. Most good fastener stores will sell them along with the tool needed to install. Or you can make your own tool with a bolt, a nut you've drilled the threads out of, and a few washers.
Thanks guy, I actually found one online like it. Took a bit of looking around but thank you!
Great Stuff Aaron. Very helpful. THANKS FOR SHARING.
@davidk1625 A quality kit should be as good as OEM. AutoLoc advertises theirs as using "OEM quality motors" and they do seem to be high quality. As long as it doesn't freeze with ice, temperature should be no issue. Since the actuators are mounted between the door and inside, they shouldn't be prone to freezing though of course the window mechanism still could. Reliability will likely come to down how much of a quality install is done.
i like how the dremel was still on after cutting the bracket. LOL then you turned it off after removing the cut part. hahaha BOSS!
This is a great tutorial in basic fabrication skills, also.
awesome work on the vids man perfect will be waiting for part 12
@FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR Yeah, they are kind of expensive, but AutoLoc isn't kidding when they say "OEM quality". The actuators are very powerful and seem quite well made. Keep in mind that the 2 door kit comes with two regulators, a bunch of hardware and all the wiring for $210(on AutoLoc's website). If you subscribe to their news letter, they send discount codes all the time as well. Maybe there is a Nissan OEM regulator you can use that will fit?
Off the top of my head, approximately $3500. The largest expenses being the stuff to build the engine and all the AutoLoc parts. About $150 in sheet metal so far, then the rest in parts that I've not shown yet (mirrors, bumpers, etc. etc.).
I thought of that as well, but sadly no. As I recall the curve was opposite or something.
have you been able to mock up the door panels yet? i'm considering doing a power window install on my 73 hilux. the panels are completely flat, and i'm concerned with how the old window regulator shaft looks. is there something that covers the shaft for a finished look included in the kit? thanks for being in depth on your videos!
@FREEHANDILLUSTRATOR There are two actuators per kit, or if you get the full on regulators, there are two per kit as well. So it's not too bad. I wasn't really impressed much with the wiring harness but it is workable and no worse than most aftermarket products. The switches are pretty cheesy though so you'll want to use something else. Since my switches will be covered up I don't mind. As I'm sure you know, window regulators require a lot of adjustment to work smoothly. :-)
@darkblaze176 Yeah, I didn't have a plastic hammer so I just reached for the machinist's hammer. I used a lot of very light blows as to not avoid the plastic, but to anyone else I would certainly recommend using a plastic or rubber hammer. Or place a block of wood between the hammer and plastic.
Because it looks like a need a special tool too install them but your using a standard socket wrench! Thanks
thank you for uploading this, great work btw, totally enjoyed it ... gonna work on a Mazda 626 1980' sedan.
Excellent vid.
Very detailed and very helpful.
This is a very good instalation vid thnx for making this!
But i've got 1 more question, was the wiring to the switches and all hard to install? Or was it easy.
my god this shit transported me back to the 80's
@mike240se Not a huge deal. I put it in just for a more finished look and to keep junk from splashing from inside the door onto the actuator cables.
@appleipad123 If you are buying a kit, it will include a full wiring harness and instructions. You just connect the harness as per the instructions. It may be worth Googling the kit you bought to become familiar with the wiring before you attempt to install it.
I don't see why it shouldn't last as long as any OEM electric regulator. The parts seem to be about the same as many OEM regulators and as long as they are maintained (ie. keep the window tracks clean and lubed) there shouldn't be an issue.
Without giving too much away, I'm using a variant of the MegaSquirt 3 that isn't even available on the market yet. More details will follow in the next episode. Ignition will be FC coils, using RX-8 primaries and 900CC secondaries, and an FC CAS to trigger.
@DocLondom Good to know. But I'm going to still try and keep each one at around the 15 minute level. I think that's the ideal size.
A professional work. Nice one
It comes with a basic set of switches. I'm planning to use my own though.
very detailed. good work. thank you.
From my local fastener store. Any good fastener store should have one. If not, then you can make your own fairly easily. Google "make rivnut tool". Part 22.5 has a little segment on installing and using rivnuts.
thanks. what are those rivet looking nuts w/ threads called? they didn't know what I was talking about at Lowes or auto zone lol.
@appleipad123 The actuator is about 18" long, and pretty flexible so it should fit on most door panels without cutting. I only made a cut for a more OEM like installation and so my inner door trim panels would sit flat without too much work. In most vehicles they should have enough adjustment to fit without making cuts.
@smacksaw The funny thing is, there are a load of cheap imported mills on sale in places like Princess Auto and Harbor Freight. And there are inexpensive CNC kits available online. It would only cost about $800 plus the purchase of the mill to have a small CNC mill these days. I think you should worry more about your iPhone data plan! ;-)
@appleipad123 Pull your power from a fused constant 12V source. Your windows will then operate whether the car is on or off. If you are adding a number of other electrical items, install an aux fuse panel connected directly to the battery (fused or with a breaker). Then the other side of your window harness goes to ground.
This is great sir, you are remarkable.
Advise, for 97 dodge dakota, spal or autoloc?
Who has the alpha product leading to something appropriate for my vehicle (:
Hey I have few questions. Is the universal power windows kit are good quality? Will it work when its -20 C outside? What about the motor it self? Does it brake often? Thank you
A piece of window screen hung slightly in front of your blast cabinet window will make it last much longer. Have a nice day.
Do you happen to know where you got that rivnut tool?? All of the ones I've found are crazy complicated or the regular rivet gun style. Yours is very simple an effective. If you recall where you got it I'd love to know....
@pesomasagravedad Yep. I almost always have it removed for better access. About the only time I install it is when I'm grinding on a flat surface and thick metal. Notice also that I'm using a 5" grinding disc on a grinder designed for a 4" disc. :-D
I'm wondering whether the cutout from one side could have worked as the fabricated channel for the other side.
explained properly, good job!!
@tsherwoodrzero True enough. Notice though that I closed my eyes. It's not proper, but quite often the easiest and quickest thing to do for small tacks.
Great video, really helped me a lot in my install. Thanks.
@sh3lbot Does that smell any different than a 12A?
where did you buy your kit and how much was it? only place I can find them is Ebay and they go from $70 up
@Sneddz1 It won't be. I have all the footage now, I just need to start editing it. Since it is rather linear, it should be an easy edit. Though it is a busy time of the year for me (auto shows) I would hope that it will be posted in early March.
@GeeksCreation The car is in the process of a full restoration. Traditionally, when restoring a car, one starts with one that requires a bit of work...
What are those things you put in holes you drilled? I mean this metal rings you strew in with spanner and a power-drill.
Can't wait for the next episode!
where did you buys these? also how do the windows operate with a battery or do you wire them to something to make them work I don't get that part..
Nice JOB. Looks "near" FACTORY. Got tolove that :O)
i have a Pontiac Firebird couple. It doesn't have power windows, do you think it's possible to install power windows to it?
how do the switches work to reverse the poles for the up and down motion?
I'm going to subscribe just because my name is Aaron and this video was very informative. Good job!
@arklanbk A far more finished look, and to keep debris out of the actuator. It makes for a much more OEM style installation.
When u drilled the holes you used like a cap or whatever it is so u can use bolts, whats the name of that tool! Thats awesome
Nutserts or rivnuts. Most fastener stores have them as well as the tool needed to install them.
Excelente video !!!
@fppgames Ah, good catch! Looks like I forgot. I'll have to go back with seam sealer and make the area weather tight.
Hello
Very good video
My car is a chevrolet Malibu 1981 .
Que mecanismo es ideal para este car?
Gracias
From Caracas, Venezuela
What is the tool you use to install the nutserts or rivnuts?
One question .. what are you going to do about the hole of the crank pulley?
Not really sure if anything needs to be done about it. It will be behind an inner door panel and I will make sure to build the panel with a little bump (likely hidden behind the armrest) to accommodate the pulley.