Create a Psychedelic Resin Swirl Lam Job - Wing Foil Board Glassing Tutorial!
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- In this video we show you how we did a psychedelic resin swirl lam job on a behemoth wing foil board.
Basic Steps outlined:
- Mask off deck of board make sure to get the tape down nice and tight
- tape over handle openings, track box openings (if desired), and trim glass for bottom lam.
-mix up different colors of resin - dump into one bucket and give 1 to maybe 2 stirs, just enough to streak it, not enough to blend it.
-pour out in patterns on the board and then tip the board to get it to flow
-let sit and soak into glass
lightly squeegee to spread resin to areas that aren't covered yet let sit and soak.
-one final squeegee to remove excess resin
-Lap up rails
-once resin is cured enough to handle flip board and trim the lapline
-Repeat the same steps for the deck.
-Tape off for hotcoat
-Hotcoat deck
- Pull tape when resin is mostly set
- Once fully set and can be handled without indenting the resin flip board and repeat hotcoat on bottom.
Materials Used in this video:
40" wide 6oz S-2 glass fiberglasssupp...
Resin Research 2000 CE Epoxy fiberglasssupp...
Mixing buckets fiberglasssupp...
Stir Sticks fiberglasssupp...
Black and white pigments fiberglasssupp...
Squeegees fiberglasssupp...
3M 233 plus masking tape fiberglasssupp...
Masking paper fiberglasssupp...
Razor Blades fiberglasssupp...
Paint Brushes fiberglasssupp...
Thanks for the video. Nice to see a big wing board. Just stepping into making my own board (surf) so the video and details are really helpful.
Thanks!
awesome video and work , very informative , thank you for sharing
Thanks
Great video, Dude!!
Thanks for the video. Approximately how much epoxy did you use to laminate and fill coat this board? I'm building a large (135L) foil board as my first and not sure how much epoxy to mix up at each stage.
What cutting tip did you use for cutting your tracks out?
Hi, awesome video! Just a question, does the catalizer or resins expire or can go bad with time?? I had some poliester resin and catalizer (MEK Peroxide) and after mixing the resin is not drying and im sure I put enough. I even make some tests on some plastic cups to saw if it was a mater of proportions but they are not drying.
Also, it's not necessary to mask of your tracks?
Great Video.. I am very surprise by the very light glass layup. What is the foam density?
Great video! Please - Show us how you lap the glass at the corners in the rear and around the nose.... it's my biggest challenge.
Will do!
When you hot coat/fill coat, are you adding anything to the resin? I tried hot coating with sea hawk epoxy resin with the fast hardener and it was quite ugly.
Generally I am not. That said Resin Research makes an additive called additive F that is designed to act like a surface agent and block the resin from blushing. I am not familiar with the Sea Hawk epoxy, we use a lot of Resin Research, which was designed for board building and is UV stable and it works very well for that.
@@FiberglassSupplyah ok I see. Sea hawk epoxy is an American brand that is made for boat repairs which may be why it’s not good for hot coating. Thanks for the info!
Great video ! Would you hot/fill coat , sand and after do a gloss coat ? Also what’s your sanding process? Thanks
Thanks! Good question, I have some more foilboard builds coming up and we'll show the whole process. Yes after the hotcoat, then sand. You really have a couple of options at that point, although you should decide at the outset of the build how you want to finish it. One option is what we'll call a sanded finish, sand it out to as high a grit as you want (usually a minimum of 220, often 320 or 400 grit) and apply a sealer to it, like our surfboard sealer, which is a wipe on finish and really easy to apply depending on many layers of that you use you'll get a matte to a semi-gloss finish. If you want a glossy board you have 2 options, first is that if you did a good job on your prep work and laps all the way through you may be able to sand the hot coat out to 600-800 grit and then buff to a high gloss, the 2nd option is to do another coat of resin (gloss coat) and then wetsand and buff that out. If you are doing a 2nd coat of resin you only need to sand the first out to 120-220 grit (I tend to go 120 except where I may be adding pin stripes, that I take to 220). I sometimes will also use a polyester gloss resin to do the gloss as it is easier to get a bright shine out of. Another option would be to paint the board (which obviously you're not going to do if doing a swirl lam, unless...), in which case sand well to 220 or 320 and follow the paint manufacturer's instructions. General sanding process is knock down any high spots with 80 grit and maybe 1 pass over everything with the 80, then 120, 220, all with an 8" soft power pad on a grinder. Sanding process after a gloss coat is to hit any high spots with 320 grit, then 400, 600, 800, Scotchbrite and buff. Usually I sand with the grinder/power pad combo however I will sometimes use a festool sander, which is nice because of the dust collection but is slower going than the power pad combo, and sometimes I will do the rails by hand (almost always on the gloss coat) it really comes down to what you have and what you feel comfortable using.
@@FiberglassSupply Thanks for such a detailed answer, I’ve built a couple of wing foil boards last year , painted one and not keen on that again. Just need need to work on my laminating and finish etc great advice and look forwards to seeing the next videos