E90 BMW DIY Belt And Pulley Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- Checkout www.oembimmerparts.com if you need to replace your belt or pulleys on the E90 BMW. There are different pulleys depending on the year of your vehicle so check out their site. Also check out www.realoem.com to confirm the exact part numbers you need. You can put the last 7 of your VIN number in and it will show you the parts for your vehicle.
Belts and pulleys tend to wear out over time. The ribs on the belts wear down, the rubber cracks, and in some cases chunks of the belt may be missing. The pulleys are ballbearings and the grease inside will dry out, the bearing races will get pitted and corroded and the pulleys will start to make noise. It's best just to replace them all at once and it's best to use OEM components when doing it. In this video, I'll show you how to do that. It's actually pretty easy!
00:00:00 Intro
00:00:12 Removing underside panel, air scope, and cooling fan
00:01:59 Removing the turbo inlet
00:03:55 OEMBimmerParts.com
00:04:31 Making more room to work
00:05:46 Removing the belt
00:07:27 Removing the pulley covers & inspecting
00:08:46 Replacing tensioner pulley
00:10:03 Replacing upper pulley
00:11:43 Replacing lower pulley
00:13:06 Installing new belt
00:15:56 Reinstalling turbo inlet
00:19:10 Reinstalling engine fan & air scoop
00:20:23 Starting the engine!
00:21:11 Wrap-up
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video. 
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This man taught me most of everything on my e46 and I had fun with it for 3 years before I sold it
Mine sounded like a clutch chatter. It was the tensioner causing it. So I did the kit and no more noise.
Always good videos from you 50s you inspire us thank you!!!!
Jason, another great DIY video! Thanks....Let me add a "non conventional" seat of the pants, shade tree fix. Remove the bearing seals & add high temp grease. These rollers fail due to "small amount of grease from the factory", which in their HOT environment, dries out over time. If the ball bearings & races are still good, you can grease them about every 30-40k miles. Just like changing oil in the engine to keep it running a long time. My local BMW Tech gave me this tip.
Been getting my E90 335 fixed up since being in storage for a while and your videos have really helped me out.
I've been going through doing some preventative maintenance and preparing myself to change out the "common things" that happen with N54's and E90's like blower motor, water pump, belt/pulleys, coolant "straw" above fan, coolant hoses, etc. Some I have already changed out as problems occur, but some I am changing out before the problem.
Thanks for the info and leaving your mistakes in.
Love the video man! You do a great job with the camera work to show us the exact way you get your tools in there. Keep it up with the N54 maintenance videos
Been waiting for this!
Great video, Jason. Thanks for sharing.
Great work and good DIY.
Great video!
Nice content buddy 👏
great job!!!
Well Done
Lately when I replace tensioner pulleys with pins, I've started to save the pins. I use them when I have to remove/replace just belts later or on other cars. Not essential but it helps.
Yep, good to have.
Awesome ✌️ thank you 👊
Excellent videography. Congrats. Have done the job twice in my e90 with 300,000 miles 2008 328i.
Jason, I hope my comments aren't offensive, as I do not want to add anything to take away from your videos' You are great my friend & that is not my intent. Let me know if I'm out of line.
With that said, your belt looks like it was "close to being digested" thru your front crank seal. You might want to install a 'seal guard' for another DIY video. I need to install one on our F15 N55.
Jason - you missed a pulley. The alternator pulley is not like the ones on older BMW’s. it is a special freewheel pulley, like the freewheel on a bicycle.
That pulley should also be replaced. It can seize and cause the belt to fail. It can also make a roaring noise when it gets hot, if it is on the way out.
I would replace it, if it is old.
You will need to buy a special tool to remove the old alternator pulley.
There are videos on RUclips if you want to learn about it.
The alternator was recently replaced, but thanks for the info I'll check it out.
Check your power steering pulley for chips that could be the reason for the belt...it's known fact that In
Older e90s had a problem with the motor mounts when making hard turns the power steering pulley will touch the frame of the vehicle theres a fix for that by installing the 335iS motor mounts that solve that issue....and quite honest in the beginning of the video that engine sounded like a normal n54
Yeah I've heard about the motor mount issue. I thought it was just caused by worn mounts, but I haven't looked into it yet. Will do though.
Wow I'm glad I have a E46.... much easier!
May I ask you what's your lighting, and recording equipment? I love how they are set up.
Wow Bimmer are becoming complicated to replace just simple things, i cant wait for your solution on E46 oil leak, im suffering from the same thing.
Super video again! I had belt issues as well (E46), replaced everything and then found out that the fan clutch was bad as well, causing too much load on the belt system. Do all manufacturers have such noisy and sensitive belt systems or is it just BMW ? :-)
Nah, pulleys are pulleys they all go bad eventually.
Great video , can you make a video how to code modules with tool 32 or expert mode
He already has videos about NCS expert and NCS dummy. Those two programmes allow you to code module options.
Ironically, yes I will be releasing a video that involves toolset32 soon enough. It's related to the FRM.
hey i am wondering i finished my e46 ccv replacement but i noticed when trying to connect my lower ccv tube to the oil dipstick it just was not long enough i put some vaccum tube inside of it connect it to the oil dipstick but when i test drove it i noticed i was losing oil which im sure is from that but im not sure what i should do about this if anyone has any fixes or advice pls let me know
My goodness my M54 is so much easier to work on.
M54 and N52 are pretty similar though, a little more plastic fantastic :P
Are you sure the routing is correct? I did it that way once on my m54 (i am a dumb as). It destroys the belt. Left lots of rubber goo on the roller.
Thank you Mr Jason "BMW DOCtor" will you be making video for to retrofit oil cooler ?
Yes, soon
@@50sKid ok
At 8:23 you can see that the upper left pulley you replaced is a ribbed pulley and not smooth. The part you used to replace it must be wrong
The one I took off was also not ribbed -- the old one just looked ribbed because it had the impression of the belt rubber on it. This is the way this is designed from the factory. It's definitely strange.
@@50sKid I see that now. That is weird.
Hey On the M62 X5 timing procedure. If the Vanos wasn't properly purged do you think that can cause a P0011 code AKA advanced timing bank 1. I replaced a intake cam on the passenger side idk so that could be an issue. I noticed the driver side vanos purged more than the passenger side. I first thought I went to hard with the driver side when purging it but evidently bank 1 is the code affected. All new guides, tensioners, and chains except the lower. I didn't do the lower. Any ideas what to look for or first things to check? BTW I got a vanos socket coming and gonna swap the solenoids to see if it shows up on bank 2 instead of bank 1. Advance timing from what I was told means the solenoid is either not getting oil/not working, timing chain is off, or vanos is clogged. I figured you of all people would be the guy to ask
Which timing tools did you end up using.
@@andrewburr7758 German Auto Solutions
please make sure stering pump pully cracks thats why belt chope d
Will look.
upgrade stering pump pully aluminum one
I'll check that out, thanks!
hey i am currently in the middle of my ccv replacement and i noticed when i got the intake off that i was completely missing the electric value and the non return value (black and white cords) i also noticed the vacuum line that came out of the electric value which i think connects to the air pump was just never there either and I'm not sure if i need to replace all of those or not i would appreciate any feedback
this is on my e46 325i bmw
@@brandonlowdermilk7705 I didn’t have the check valve on my e46 325i either when I pulled the intake manifold. I think I just researched and realized it never did have one? Maybe it was only on 330i and up?
Video only at 360p, am I just too early and RUclips hasn't done the its magic yet?
Was about to write the same but I think he uploaded the wrong file or something it's still 360p
I think you uploaded the wrong file the video is still 360p
Takes a while for youtube to finish processing the higher quality, but they did say all of that processing was done by the time I activated it. Strange.
@@50sKid Ahh yeah looks like it's good now!
That belt drive setup is so German... 🤨
So much fucking plastic in that engine