@@barbatosrex9473 The hard work is much appreciated! For someone starting out, it's incredibly useful to not just see the most popular solution, but everything that's out there and how you can make it work.
This was a very timely video for me, BR! In the last few weeks I've started to use brushed-on acrylic washes as a replacement for pigments and chalks when weathering HO scale freight cars. After applying a matt varnish I use craft acrylic paints thinned with Peak windshield washer fluid (thanks to a previous video of yours) . First I simulate fading of the primary color of the car by applying a wash of a slightly lighter version of that color. Next I work on the roof for any rust or wear effects. I then use an overall wash which is a mixture of Apple Barrel Pavement (equivalent to the classic "grimy black") and FolkArt Iced Coffee (a grayish tan). This combo (in various ratios) gives a nice general purpose grime layer. The end result is nice and flat, but usually I add a second layer of flat varnish to slightly mute the colors and get a uniform finish. Your videos have been an enormous help to me, so many thanks!
I have problems where the Apple barrel paints keep clogging my standard old badger 200 internal mix medium tip airbrush even when thinned with isopropyl alcohol. Is t ever possible to get them to spray reliably? I’ll be doing a freight car and trying to apply a subtle fade of weathering when the paint stops flowing and I didn’t notice immediately and now the car has strange clean areas that are hard to fix. Eventually I keep trying to fix all these areas until I step back and now the car is overdone and looks like it was burned in a fire... Is there any way to salvage this?
@@Syclone0044 I don't use an airbrush for weathering as my skills there are minimal. But I'd guess that in your situation I would thin the paint more and maybe lower the air pressure, too. I also use Vallejo retarder (1 part in 5) to reduce tip dry.
I tend to use different washes or panel liners depending on the part. For large pieces I tend to use gundam markers. For small detail areas I prefer tamiya panel lines. For weapons I love using Citadel washes it doesn't ruin the metallic coat but fits in every area of the piece
Thanks for making this vid. I’ve been experimenting with a homemade acrylic wash for panel lining using Vallejo model color and I’ve found it hit or miss. It either seems to not run, or run too much. This’ll give me a few other ideas. ….also I get a kick out of how I have now built enough kits that I can recognize the HG Leo and Heavyarms pieces…
I always gain a lot of knowledge from your videos. I am back to model building after a 40 year hiatus. Thanks for all the great tips & tricks! Merry Christmas!
I recently got one of those decal squeegee things and I use it for panel lines and it removes them great because it doesn’t dip into the recess and pull out your wash! Worth the 5-7 bucks imo and they do great on decals as well of coarse.
@@statoilbensin2190 he is doing better, thanks for asking. No salt allowed for that guy. Honestly if anyone has a cat they should stay away from salty treats like the Tasty Treats that are commonly found at grocery/dollar stores!!! I’m pretty sure that’s what caused his kidney disease. But he’s a strong boy so he’s pushing through!
Love all your videos they are extremely extremely helpful SOO PLEASE KEEP EM COMING !!!! Thank you and wish you and your family a very safe and Merry Christmas.
Well what a year of videos and learning. Thanks so much for all you do for the community and wishing you and your family all the best for Christmas and the New Year. Really happy to see you show that fast orange cleaner, as I remember you speaking about it ages ago but could not remember which vid it was in. Gotta get some if it's available over here in Oz.
I learned something new again! Thanks! Will try these variety for applying panel lines. Whenever I would use the Tamiya Panel lines or Mr. Hobby Panel Lines I would apply a coat of Clear Gloss Varnish (Tamiya X22, Mr. Hobby 100, J&J Pledge Revive) to provide a smoother slow of the enamel panel lines when applying. Clean it up with a Zippo lighter fluid. At the same time it acts as a protective coat , applying decals, and applying weathering effects.
I mix my own washes, Abteilung oil paint mixed with their fast drying thinner, or with AK odorless thinner or Windsor and Newton Sansodor. This has far superior flow properties and leaves time to work the wash. The AK enamel washes are also nice.
Yeah I am looking for an Acrylliuc safe pin/panel liner just because I don't really like using varnish what-so-ever. I picked Vallejo because I like the finish to the paint!
These are better than what I use, which is save a bottle of very well used brush cleaner for a wash. In model railroading you take this beautifully painted locomotive & dirty it up to look like a well used piece of s#!t. Cooling screens, fuel & oil spills & engine exhausts & NO gloss paints. Even new semi-gloss paints, panel lines, & screens & engine exhaust need wash. Washes were always done with solvent based paints when I was a kid. Premixed are new to me so I'm on a learning curve. I'm liking the idea of acrylic wash & your videos are helping. I've even tried the anodizing painting of small bicycle parts for my bikes! The airbrush was used for trains, then to get rid of the measles (chipped paint) on my cars' noses. Still playing with uses. 🤔 🎅🎄Happy Holidays⛄✡
Hello sir hope all is well, Thank you very much for sharing your tips, tricks, and techniques it's extremely helpful. I have been building cars trucks, and motorcycle model kits for about 30 years and I am looking to get into building the armor suit meccas that you have been using in your videos (I know nothing about these) and was hoping you could point me in the direction of a nice decent kit that's not gigantic but not to small either. Again Thank you very much for sharing your craft it's well appreciated it.
Look up Gundams. The Real Grade (RG) RX 78 he has at the beginning of this video is on the smaller side and has a lot of details to it. There are High Grade (HG) that are the same size but have less detail.
@@pankbot Thank you very much for the information I really appreciate it just really need a change of pace and they look really cool. Thank you again and have a safe and Happy Holidays
nice vid, ill keep my tamiya panel liner, i did go with your magic marker tip, that's amazing! Really does a great job to get the lines I want, and if i want more fade, i jus precision qtip it with lighter fluid.
I am planning on picking up some Tamiya metalic enamel for this purpose for gunpla. But I am also planning on buying youre anodized enamel lacquer paints too.
Great video. I’m always looking for an alternative to enamels for washing. One thing that i have found is that if you use an enamel panel liner on bare Gundam plastic BEFORE assembly It does not hurt the plastic, as long you keep it off of any connection points or joints. I usually panel line on the runners if the kit will not be painted. Using enamel washes on the internal frames is just too risky for me. I’m very interested in trying the cheap craft paint. That is the ultimate budget solution. I have been trying out the new Ammo acrylic washes and they look promising too.
For a while I've been wondering whether there was a cheaper alternative. I had heard of oil paints thinned down, but I didn't know we had so many options.... Another banging video. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Absolutely love your stuff. You've saved me so much money and thought me so much. But one thing that I've wonder, how do you keep your space so clean? It's immaculate always while mines always gets dusty.
Yea lve been using Artist acrylic paint from the $2.00 shop they work really well through my air brush ,got tried of paying $6.00 for small bottle of paint. I sometimes use Windex window cleaner ,l only use it if day is either dry or very hot makes the paint work better ,got enough pair to last me a life time now
A little late to the party, but I like to add a couple drops of glaze medium to my acrylics to make them more "runny" when panel lining. Recently did that to panel line a kit with fluorescent acrylics.
Yet a again what at great video I really enjoyed the information that you put into your videos. If you don’t get your next video out you have a merry Christmas to you and your family. 👍
I'm nominating you for a RUclips 'Tony" for this great series of modeling vids!!
3 года назад
I use a water based pen with a brush tip (think they are meant for colouring illustrations) and wipe the excess with my fingers. Picked up the trick from a EonsOfBattñe video.
Hey Barbatos, like most your videos are amazing and have helped a Ton. I have a question I have you vids and some others. And haven't found a a video that shows compatibility with coatings. For Example I have the Vallejo Wash. And it just wrecked my build. There is Info on labels out there about what the product is but haven't seen a Tutorial on what Washes work with what clears. My Case was Vallejo Model Air paint Gloss Coated with Future. The used Vallejo wash. Same with Tamiya Flat Coat over my gloss coat of Future wrecked it. So maybe if you find time to put out a how to on what is compatible with what type top coats. Appreciate you and your work.
Valejo’s acrylic wash works great, but I found out that it gets hard to clean up with water when it gets too dry. Alcohol does the trick, but it eats away the paint after more than two swipes over the surface ☹️
Hey Barbatos, thanks for the video! Question: What would you recommend to remove citadel wash over Vallejo paint and varnish? From the video I'm understanding Vallejo airbrush thinner? I tried alcool and it teared through the varnish and paint.
hello, new to the hobby and want to explore a little bit more. using top coat and then pannel lining using acrylic paint and thinner for clean up, it should do okay? and it should be TOP COAT > PANEL LINE > WATER DECAL > TOP COAT in patern? thank you so much! it would be a alot of help.
Another great video! One question, though. If you're applying a wash over an acrylic base, do you need to apply a finish coat first (such as Pledge)? I was trying this with craft paint on vent grills for the big Revell Queen Mary 2 kit, and wash smudged quite bit. Couldn't clean it with alcohol because that would take the underlying paint as well. Would the Pledge act the same way as on the enamel base you were using? Would the premade washes work better directly on acrlics bases? Thanks for all your great info. It really has helped me as I get back into modeling!
I want to use some white acrylic to make white lettering on rubber car model tires. Would I want to use the paint strait out of the bottle or dilute it?
Awesome videos! I’ve been binge watching on lunch! What wash do you think would be the best for me to use on my engines that I brush paint with Tamiya acrylics?
With Tamiya you can use any one. I would recommend putting a clear coat first before panel lining or doing a black engine wash over Tamiya paints when using their own panel liner
It's tricky because it's the same paint type as the base. Unless you put a clear coat on top that's a different formula. I have my own panel liner line and they come in two varieties, cone is acrylic and the other is enamel like Tamiya's. The acrylics are recommended to go over bare plastic and the enamel goes over either acrylic or lacquer
Been researching more how to do washes and stuff and discovered some interesting stuff. First of all airbrush thinner contains alcohol and some people advise not to use it for brush painting as i can remove previous layers due to the alcohol in it although it's not much & it also makes the paint dry faster(this i didn't know before) as it is designed for the airbrush, thinner medium is designed for brush painting and it contains flow improver +water+binder. Airbrush Flow improver can be used for brush painting, it acts as a retarder which makes the paint dry harder, it reduces surface tension and lubricates the airbrush and is beneficial in leveling the paint and smoothing transitions in washes or glazes.
I use retarder when I brush paint as seen in my Tamiya Acrylic paint test, also I have some for Mr Color and several other brands of paints I use. Retarder is basically flow improver. Great idea to use it when Panel Lining, thanks for the tip
You say to *clear coat* the plastic prior to panel lining... does it matter if you use acrylic or enamel or what exactly do you use to coat prior to panel lining??
I always just use distilled water to thin craft acrylics 1:1. Didn’t know it was safe to use lighter fluid to remove the Tamiya panel wash. I used lacquer thinner on a Yamato model and it made the plastic brittle and crack. Never touched the stuff again after that.
I've had good luck panel lining with vallejo black washes but I can't seem to find a good grey acrylic. The vallejo ones I've tried have just turned spotty and broken after drying. I have made sure to mix well but they just don't seem to hold the line as they dry. Anyone have suggestions on what else to try?
Hello, i am a little old school meaning when i started painting models there was one type of paint yes (TESTERS) now look at all the different types and brands a little confessing, you have helpped me get back into painting them. i do have a question though, you used windshield fluid to thin some paint and i was wondering if you added any other additives to it like flow and retarder in it or is it streight windshield fluid? i know there is alcohol in it to keep it from freezing
Straight washer fluid. But you can add a flow improver or retarder. I don't add those here because I'm only spraying a spoon so I'm not spraying a long time, that of which would cause a tip dry
Don't use Rain-X windshield washer fluid. It has silicates in it that will ruin your piece permanently, you'll never get paint to stick and you'll never get it off. For that matter, don't use it in your car either, it smears and smudges immediately across your windshield. Worst windshield washer/ bug wash fluid ever.
Hi barbatos Rex ty for the videos it helps a lot specially when I’m a beginner, can you help me with finding a good airbrush? My budget is around $80 or if you could make a video comparing some. Thank you in advance
I have a airbrush comparison video coming up really soon, less than a week. I'll go over 3 price points for them. That said I'll tell you now what I'm going to say in the video, the Badger Patriot 105 Fine. Just buy it today here, it's on sale for $70 spraygunner.com?aff=10
@@reylen3883 no, the Patriot Fine is all you'll need. Unless you want to get ultra fine pencil lines the Patriot Fine at the link I gave you is perfect
You move your hands too fast and your camera can not keep up with you and has a hard time staying in focus! Slow down a bit so it is possible to see what you are trying to show!!!!
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Don't know how much time it takes you to produce one of these videos, but i appreciate it 'cause you really get into a topic.
A lot of thought goes into these before I start filming. I always want to cover all bases but I always seem to forget something 😉
@@barbatosrex9473 The hard work is much appreciated! For someone starting out, it's incredibly useful to not just see the most popular solution, but everything that's out there and how you can make it work.
This was a very timely video for me, BR! In the last few weeks I've started to use brushed-on acrylic washes as a replacement for pigments and chalks when weathering HO scale freight cars. After applying a matt varnish I use craft acrylic paints thinned with Peak windshield washer fluid (thanks to a previous video of yours) . First I simulate fading of the primary color of the car by applying a wash of a slightly lighter version of that color. Next I work on the roof for any rust or wear effects. I then use an overall wash which is a mixture of Apple Barrel Pavement (equivalent to the classic "grimy black") and FolkArt Iced Coffee (a grayish tan). This combo (in various ratios) gives a nice general purpose grime layer. The end result is nice and flat, but usually I add a second layer of flat varnish to slightly mute the colors and get a uniform finish. Your videos have been an enormous help to me, so many thanks!
I have problems where the Apple barrel paints keep clogging my standard old badger 200 internal mix medium tip airbrush even when thinned with isopropyl alcohol. Is t ever possible to get them to spray reliably? I’ll be doing a freight car and trying to apply a subtle fade of weathering when the paint stops flowing and I didn’t notice immediately and now the car has strange clean areas that are hard to fix. Eventually I keep trying to fix all these areas until I step back and now the car is overdone and looks like it was burned in a fire... Is there any way to salvage this?
@@Syclone0044 I don't use an airbrush for weathering as my skills there are minimal. But I'd guess that in your situation I would thin the paint more and maybe lower the air pressure, too. I also use Vallejo retarder (1 part in 5) to reduce tip dry.
The idea of using a caligraphy pen for panel lines is really slick!
Yeah I've been using one for years.
@@barbatosrex9473 Any clue if a cheap one will do or does it have to have some semblance of quality to it?
@@tristanspahr6164 any fine tipped one will do
I tend to use different washes or panel liners depending on the part. For large pieces I tend to use gundam markers. For small detail areas I prefer tamiya panel lines. For weapons I love using Citadel washes it doesn't ruin the metallic coat but fits in every area of the piece
Thanks for making this vid. I’ve been experimenting with a homemade acrylic wash for panel lining using Vallejo model color and I’ve found it hit or miss. It either seems to not run, or run too much. This’ll give me a few other ideas.
….also I get a kick out of how I have now built enough kits that I can recognize the HG Leo and Heavyarms pieces…
Paul from NB Canada. Thank you for doing this video and clearing up some confusion on different types of panel liners!!
I always gain a lot of knowledge from your videos. I am back to model building after a 40 year hiatus. Thanks for all the great tips & tricks! Merry Christmas!
I recently got one of those decal squeegee things and I use it for panel lines and it removes them great because it doesn’t dip into the recess and pull out your wash! Worth the 5-7 bucks imo and they do great on decals as well of coarse.
I hope youre cat is doing better Pat.
@@statoilbensin2190 he is doing better, thanks for asking. No salt allowed for that guy. Honestly if anyone has a cat they should stay away from salty treats like the Tasty Treats that are commonly found at grocery/dollar stores!!! I’m pretty sure that’s what caused his kidney disease. But he’s a strong boy so he’s pushing through!
Where can one get that decal squeegee thing?
Another video to keep in the list of things to try. Really appreciate all the work you do.
I had so many questions about panel lining. Thank you
Love all your videos they are extremely extremely helpful SOO PLEASE KEEP EM COMING !!!! Thank you and wish you and your family a very safe and Merry Christmas.
Very helpful, nice to see a full rundown of acrylic options. Thanks.
Always good to learn the fine details of the hobby. You cover every senerio possible and in an understandable way. Thanks! Merry Christmas!!
Merry Christmas to you and your family too 🎄
Well what a year of videos and learning. Thanks so much for all you do for the community and wishing you and your family all the best for Christmas and the New Year. Really happy to see you show that fast orange cleaner, as I remember you speaking about it ages ago but could not remember which vid it was in. Gotta get some if it's available over here in Oz.
Merry Christmas and a Peaceful, healthy New Year......thanks
I learned something new again! Thanks! Will try these variety for applying panel lines. Whenever I would use the Tamiya Panel lines or Mr. Hobby Panel Lines I would apply a coat of Clear Gloss Varnish (Tamiya X22, Mr. Hobby 100, J&J Pledge Revive) to provide a smoother slow of the enamel panel lines when applying. Clean it up with a Zippo lighter fluid. At the same time it acts as a protective coat , applying decals, and applying weathering effects.
I like the long videos. I watch and listen when Im cutting and sanding part off the runner.
This has been a super helpful experience. I've always been wary of panel lining except using a pen...
Your welcome. And Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Thanks for this video, it's nice to see how you're using these acrylics for panel lining! Congrats on the success of your new paint line!
I mix my own washes, Abteilung oil paint mixed with their fast drying thinner, or with AK odorless thinner or Windsor and Newton Sansodor.
This has far superior flow properties and leaves time to work the wash.
The AK enamel washes are also nice.
Once you go oil washes, you don't go back :). So nice for weathering, panel lining, ...
I used washes back in the late 70s in my plastercraft shop. Love them. Can do alot more than just panel lines
Yeah I am looking for an Acrylliuc safe pin/panel liner just because I don't really like using varnish what-so-ever. I picked Vallejo because I like the finish to the paint!
Thank you BR!!! Merry Christmas to you and yours from me and mine!!! If 2022 is just half of 2021, much success!!! Thanks for the journey!!
Great video, very well produced and informative
These are better than what I use, which is save a bottle of very well used brush cleaner for a wash. In model railroading you take this beautifully painted locomotive & dirty it up to look like a well used piece of s#!t. Cooling screens, fuel & oil spills & engine exhausts & NO gloss paints. Even new semi-gloss paints, panel lines, & screens & engine exhaust need wash. Washes were always done with solvent based paints when I was a kid. Premixed are new to me so I'm on a learning curve. I'm liking the idea of acrylic wash & your videos are helping. I've even tried the anodizing painting of small bicycle parts for my bikes! The airbrush was used for trains, then to get rid of the measles (chipped paint) on my cars' noses. Still playing with uses. 🤔
🎅🎄Happy Holidays⛄✡
Love your stuff man! Always detailed and unmatched depth.
Hello sir hope all is well, Thank you very much for sharing your tips, tricks, and techniques it's extremely helpful. I have been building cars trucks, and motorcycle model kits for about 30 years and I am looking to get into building the armor suit meccas that you have been using in your videos (I know nothing about these) and was hoping you could point me in the direction of a nice decent kit that's not gigantic but not to small either. Again Thank you very much for sharing your craft it's well appreciated it.
Look up Gundams. The Real Grade (RG) RX 78 he has at the beginning of this video is on the smaller side and has a lot of details to it. There are High Grade (HG) that are the same size but have less detail.
@@pankbot Thank you very much for the information I really appreciate it just really need a change of pace and they look really cool. Thank you again and have a safe and Happy Holidays
nice vid, ill keep my tamiya panel liner, i did go with your magic marker tip, that's amazing! Really does a great job to get the lines I want, and if i want more fade, i jus precision qtip it with lighter fluid.
Hey there... took your advice from earlier in the Revell video. With acrylics it works like a charm. Thanks again.
Your detailed video is always amazing!
Thanks man!!
I am planning on picking up some Tamiya metalic enamel for this purpose for gunpla. But I am also planning on buying youre anodized enamel lacquer paints too.
Great video. I’m always looking for an alternative to enamels for washing. One thing that i have found is that if you use an enamel panel liner on bare Gundam plastic BEFORE assembly It does not hurt the plastic, as long you keep it off of any connection points or joints. I usually panel line on the runners if the kit will not be painted. Using enamel washes on the internal frames is just too risky for me. I’m very interested in trying the cheap craft paint. That is the ultimate budget solution. I have been trying out the new Ammo acrylic washes and they look promising too.
For a while I've been wondering whether there was a cheaper alternative. I had heard of oil paints thinned down, but I didn't know we had so many options.... Another banging video. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Merry Christmas to you and yours
Great vid, thanks for sharing!
Have you tried the Flory clay washes? I am fond of those, too.
I haven't, I'll have to try them
Absolutely love your stuff. You've saved me so much money and thought me so much. But one thing that I've wonder, how do you keep your space so clean? It's immaculate always while mines always gets dusty.
Yea lve been using Artist acrylic paint from the $2.00 shop they work really well through my air brush ,got tried of paying $6.00 for small bottle of paint.
I sometimes use Windex window cleaner ,l only use it if day is either dry or very hot makes the paint work better ,got enough pair to last me a life time now
A little late to the party, but I like to add a couple drops of glaze medium to my acrylics to make them more "runny" when panel lining. Recently did that to panel line a kit with fluorescent acrylics.
nothing beats GW washes but I must say that Vallejo dark grey wash really impressed me using it. for painting mins though, not panel lining gunpla
Thanks For The Great Video... 😀😀😀
Yet a again what at great video I really enjoyed the information that you put into your videos. If you don’t get your next video out you have a merry Christmas to you and your family. 👍
I've always used a dab of black oil paint thinned with oderless mineral spirits for pinwashes and pinlining.
Great video, have a Merry Christmas.
Thanks, you too my friend
Great video good info
Merry Christmas to you good sir.
dang man, always so helpful. Thanks for your videos!
I'm nominating you for a RUclips 'Tony" for this great series of modeling vids!!
I use a water based pen with a brush tip (think they are meant for colouring illustrations) and wipe the excess with my fingers.
Picked up the trick from a EonsOfBattñe video.
Hey Barbatos, like most your videos are amazing and have helped a Ton. I have a question I have you vids and some others. And haven't found a a video that shows compatibility with coatings. For Example I have the Vallejo Wash. And it just wrecked my build. There is Info on labels out there about what the product is but haven't seen a Tutorial on what Washes work with what clears. My Case was Vallejo Model Air paint Gloss Coated with Future. The used Vallejo wash. Same with Tamiya Flat Coat over my gloss coat of Future wrecked it. So maybe if you find time to put out a how to on what is compatible with what type top coats. Appreciate you and your work.
I used a Tamiya acrylic wash on an enamel base that I also glossed. I’m finding the wash very hard to remove and tidy up.
Great video... which one do you find yourself using the most?
Robert what’s a safe way of disposing of lacquer thinners? Seems like disposing them down the sink would not be good.
Valejo’s acrylic wash works great, but I found out that it gets hard to clean up with water when it gets too dry. Alcohol does the trick, but it eats away the paint after more than two swipes over the surface ☹️
At Michaels you can get every additive know to man for acrylics to make them thin thick and flow better and sculptable.
Hey Barbatos, thanks for the video! Question: What would you recommend to remove citadel wash over Vallejo paint and varnish? From the video I'm understanding Vallejo airbrush thinner? I tried alcool and it teared through the varnish and paint.
hello, new to the hobby and want to explore a little bit more. using top coat and then pannel lining using acrylic paint and thinner for clean up, it should do okay?
and it should be TOP COAT > PANEL LINE > WATER DECAL > TOP COAT in patern?
thank you so much! it would be a alot of help.
Thanks for information
Another great video! One question, though. If you're applying a wash over an acrylic base, do you need to apply a finish coat first (such as Pledge)? I was trying this with craft paint on vent grills for the big Revell Queen Mary 2 kit, and wash smudged quite bit. Couldn't clean it with alcohol because that would take the underlying paint as well. Would the Pledge act the same way as on the enamel base you were using? Would the premade washes work better directly on acrlics bases?
Thanks for all your great info. It really has helped me as I get back into modeling!
Yes, especially with craft paints you should apply a clear coat first
@@barbatosrex9473 Thanks!
I want to use some white acrylic to make white lettering on rubber car model tires. Would I want to use the paint strait out of the bottle or dilute it?
I wouldn't dilute the white if you're going to paint tire letters.
I'm sorry maybe I missed the explanation, but do I panel line after I clear coat?
With acrylics it doesn't matter. Either way
@@barbatosrex9473thank you!!
Can i put drops of water on vallejo wash to make it thinner or is it a bad idea
Awesome videos! I’ve been binge watching on lunch!
What wash do you think would be the best for me to use on my engines that I brush paint with Tamiya acrylics?
With Tamiya you can use any one. I would recommend putting a clear coat first before panel lining or doing a black engine wash over Tamiya paints when using their own panel liner
Can one use an acrylic wash over an acrylic based coat?
It's tricky because it's the same paint type as the base. Unless you put a clear coat on top that's a different formula. I have my own panel liner line and they come in two varieties, cone is acrylic and the other is enamel like Tamiya's. The acrylics are recommended to go over bare plastic and the enamel goes over either acrylic or lacquer
@@barbatosrex9473thank you, that’s useful info.
Been researching more how to do washes and stuff and discovered some interesting stuff. First of all airbrush thinner contains alcohol and some people advise not to use it for brush painting as i can remove previous layers due to the alcohol in it although it's not much & it also makes the paint dry faster(this i didn't know before) as it is designed for the airbrush, thinner medium is designed for brush painting and it contains flow improver +water+binder. Airbrush Flow improver can be used for brush painting, it acts as a retarder which makes the paint dry harder, it reduces surface tension and lubricates the airbrush and is beneficial in leveling the paint and smoothing transitions in washes or glazes.
I use retarder when I brush paint as seen in my Tamiya Acrylic paint test, also I have some for Mr Color and several other brands of paints I use. Retarder is basically flow improver. Great idea to use it when Panel Lining, thanks for the tip
@@barbatosrex9473 Np, all i mentioned above is for Vallejo paints, never used other brands.
Mr Barbatos have you tried Italeri wash set? I have it its acrylic based and the same as Vallejo just like their paint.
You say to *clear coat* the plastic prior to panel lining... does it matter if you use acrylic or enamel or what exactly do you use to coat prior to panel lining??
I always just use distilled water to thin craft acrylics 1:1. Didn’t know it was safe to use lighter fluid to remove the Tamiya panel wash. I used lacquer thinner on a Yamato model and it made the plastic brittle and crack. Never touched the stuff again after that.
What if you use the Vallejo wash on acrylic paint? Won't it strip the paint underneath?
Thank you!!!!!!! Sooo muchhhhh!
If you seal your model with a clear lacquer is it safe to use an acrylic thinner to remove panel washes?
I've had good luck panel lining with vallejo black washes but I can't seem to find a good grey acrylic. The vallejo ones I've tried have just turned spotty and broken after drying. I have made sure to mix well but they just don't seem to hold the line as they dry. Anyone have suggestions on what else to try?
hi, whats the number of the tamiya dull coat you used for the real grade? thanks
TS-80 spray can
@@barbatosrex9473 thank you :)
Hello, i am a little old school meaning when i started painting models there was one type of paint yes (TESTERS) now look at all the different types and brands a little confessing, you have helpped me get back into painting them.
i do have a question though, you used windshield fluid to thin some paint and i was wondering if you added any other additives to it like flow and retarder in it or is it streight windshield fluid? i know there is alcohol in it to keep it from freezing
Straight washer fluid. But you can add a flow improver or retarder. I don't add those here because I'm only spraying a spoon so I'm not spraying a long time, that of which would cause a tip dry
Don't use Rain-X windshield washer fluid. It has silicates in it that will ruin your piece permanently, you'll never get paint to stick and you'll never get it off. For that matter, don't use it in your car either, it smears and smudges immediately across your windshield. Worst windshield washer/ bug wash fluid ever.
Can Pledge floor clear be used as a clear coat and then panel painting over it ? Thank You
Absolutely
@@barbatosrex9473 Thank you
what did you use to clean acrylic excess?
Hot water
@@barbatosrex9473 wow, thanks
Dollar general sells those craft paints for 1 buck. I have a metric ton of them lol and i think i found a use for them finally lol
I know you eyeballed it but when you thinned the craft paint it looked like a 2:1 thinner to paint, is that about right?
Yes, the craft paint is super thick and needs to be thinned way more than standard plastic model paints
Hi barbatos Rex ty for the videos it helps a lot specially when I’m a beginner, can you help me with finding a good airbrush? My budget is around $80 or if you could make a video comparing some. Thank you in advance
I have a airbrush comparison video coming up really soon, less than a week. I'll go over 3 price points for them. That said I'll tell you now what I'm going to say in the video, the Badger Patriot 105 Fine. Just buy it today here, it's on sale for $70
spraygunner.com?aff=10
@@barbatosrex9473 my next question is do I need the .3mm needle? And thank you so much I really appreciate the quick response and help
@@reylen3883 no, the Patriot Fine is all you'll need. Unless you want to get ultra fine pencil lines the Patriot Fine at the link I gave you is perfect
@@barbatosrex9473 thank you for the help
@@reylen3883 anytime buddy
I wish you would have shown when you airbrushed it on
I wonder why Tamiya and Mr Color went with non-acrylic panel liners? You'd think they'd want to go for the most newbie friendly kind.
I used to make acrylic liners, but when I started making oil paint thinned washes over a gloss coat, I haven't gone back.
Black sharpie markers work for some applications I used on my fighter jet worked great
GOUF MENTION !!! 13:30
First !!
See it
Bruh
The worst choice for panel line washes ever. Use oils or enamels and save yourself lots ot trouble.
First
Bruh
You move your hands too fast and your camera can not keep up with you and has a hard time staying in focus! Slow down a bit so it is possible to see what you are trying to show!!!!