Awesome video as usual bro. Here is my feedback: Switches on the left console side, fish-finder on the right side, bottom right side fill it with a custom cut piece of black acrylic or even carbon fiber. Also to cover all the holes behind your new throttle I will suggest you to cut a square piece of thin white HDPE Boat Board. Good luck with the lake trial !!! 🤞🏻
Appreciate hearing the thought process as you went through it on the console layout regarding the graph and switches. I recently bought a 97 Kenner than needs rewiring and I may borrow a few of your ideas at the center console.
You’re doing a great job. You are a study in persistence and patience. It’s admirable that you don’t give up and just charge right ahead to the next challenge. Congratulations should go to your wife who is still supporting you through this long process. Keep up the good work.
Get a tach if you can, most important guage. Like the sound of the in dash with switches below. Make sure it is easy to take out though. And always leave a pulling wire or some twine lol, been there, always do now myself, next owner on my boat will appreciate it too lol
Definitely get a fish finder/chart-plotter, Simrad/Lowrance/BC&G has quite a few 7" models... I run a Simrad GO7 in my boat but they're made and designed by the same people. Lowrence is the more fishing centered family of plotters. Throw some nice switches in there and if you wire in NEMA compatible devices for fuel, trim, marine radio, marine audio into a NEMA 2000 backbone and plug it into your new chart plotter, most of the information can and will be displayed on the chart plotter for you. I know it takes a little extra time to add in all the wiring, but its WELL WORTH IT to have everything communicating on the boat. The chart plotter and marine radios will be able to share each others GPS source, the chart plotter can calculate fuel flow and fuel level with a basic NEMA enabled fuel sender, and it would definitely breath some life into the old girl that you've spent so much time into reviving. Do not forget either a handheld, or hardwired marine radio. Safety is a must, brother, especially when changing and testing your boat. Can't wait to see her on the water.
I would put the switches at the top of your existing opening and then a marine stereo at the bottom. Putting them at the top makes it easier to reach them from the front of the boat. Very practical for turning your aerator on and off from the bow. Mount your graph on top of the dash where you could see it better. There are already holes there anyway.
Throw it in the water! I think you should do the switch panel on the left and graph or fish finder on the right... You should hook up a couple 12 inch lightbars on a swivel to the front of the boat for fishing at night.. you have enough switches!
Great video jordan. put your switches on the left. You graph on top right. And a radio on the right below the graph. If you spend all day you can have tunes and alert for weather.
To keep things from falling into the abyss try tucking in rags under your work. Old towels are great for that. Takes five minutes to do and can save you hours of work. Try to do it clean so that anything you drop will fall into a neat pocket.
I like your idea of a smart dash using your Sonar Graph. Doing away with the old analog instruments. Many graphs like you said will interface with your engine.
Sick idea of the graphs. And I would keep my trim gauges the rest can be obsolete once you get the graph installed. Put it in the water and catch its fish
I would have done this differently, as I would have 1.) searched around and found the right controls slightly used for that motor. 2.) do have a gas guage, temperature guage, Rpm guage, trim/tilt guage getting them all working. Why not? you'll be glad you did. You already have how many hours into this boat? I do approve of putting a 7" graph in that spot, and put a row of toggle switches for what you need from underneath it, or go on the left side with the guages. 3.) get plastic shop and have someone make you a sturdy mounting faceplate for the whole graph area. I know your in a hurry to get it out before summers over, then stop where you are, and put the boat in the water and see if it's worth continuing. That will get the monkey off your back of that motor running the way it should UNDER LOAD. Fish off the front deck, and catch some bass! Have a great time! Hopefully by weekend you will be on the water. Put stadium cushion to sit on while driving... done... 😁 Then you can get back to restoring more and fishing more at the same time. Winter will be around the corner, and that is the time for final restoration of this boat.
Graph forsure,,,, do it. On my rebuild 87 champion I made sure to have a water pressure gauge to insure the impeller/water pump was cooling and also a tach it helps a lot! My 2€’s
Awesome video! I definitely agree with putting the switch panel on the left where the current guages are especially since your not going to use them. As far as the graph, I would get the biggest you can afford and place it in a clear viewing area. You could still put a 7" in the right side area and use it for chart plotting and maps.
A nice piece of oak wood stained nice with several coats of clear would look great behind your throttle control. You could also do your dash the same way
Nice videos, I would redo the gages with black marine board. You can make the panels to how ever you like, fill in the dash holes. As far as graphs. I would put it on top of the dash. Fill in the holes and use a rammount or something like that. That way you are not limited to the size and you can see it. That way you can see it above your steering wheel. Safety!
You are spot on with the dash idea. Put a graph aka MFD (multi function display) in there. I would just say make sure whatever you pick is NMEA 2000 capable. With that you can add all sorts of sensors and data you want in the future if you want. I.e. you could get RPM of the old school 2 stroke with a N2K sensor or fuel level. It’s really up to you.
if you cover the shifter hole in the body, use the plastic dry wall patch its a mesh that is peel and stick then you can use fiber bondo over the mesh and once hardened you can sand it smooth. the mesh works as a great backer.
Yes. Do u on Custom Dash. Thats what I started doing. It works. I install have a Tach, Motor temp gauge, Horn, Nav lights and added a LED Flood Light ,Bildge manual switch ,along with the automatic feature, Cig lighter for CB, and other devices.
A MFD won’t show engine data on a motor that old but it should do everything else. I always like to have an RPM gauge cause it’s a quick and easy indicator of how the motor is running, and helps to dial in props (don’t know if you’ll do that on this one). Otherwise putting the graph/mfd in dash sounds like a great idea.
Personally I think there are 2 gauges you need. Tachometer is one if you're running the 2 stroke at to high rpm you'll grenade it quickly. Usually the manual for the outboard will list a max rpm and also the rpm range for max powerband. This also helps inform if you're running the correct prop. Your engine is probably to old to feed rpm to a graph. I'd also have a water pressure gauge probably not mandatory. One other thought is does the outboard have a primer solenoid? If so that's usually ran through the key by pushing the key in. Not sure if your new key on shifter had that. You can prime it by have but requires removing the cowling which can get annoying. Good work mate hope to see you floating soon don't forget the drain plug 😉
I had a boat with an Raymarine in dash graph. What I would say is it was great, but I would mount yours with some way to shim it or adjust the angle. When the sun would get bright it was difficult to see. I would have to move my eye position to read it, and that was annoying. Now, I will say that was like 8 years ago, and I think that they have after market shield that will go over the graph that may minimize it or it's a problem that doesn't exist anymore. Either way it's a good way to fill that hole. It's getting close can't wait to see it on the water.
I suggested that shifter to you in the comments of the last video! It works great for me. I’m not using the key on the unit because mine is a pull start. I don’t think you’ll have any issues either way!
Just made my own custom dash for my 1997 PII. Purchased the A10 and they made me the wiring harness $240.00 total with a Bezel. Added the Gauges I wanted and used PVC to fill the hole.
Man that’s a tough one I like the switch panel and with the empty slot you could put in a radio lol. However being that your not going to replace the original ones which I do agree with I like your idea with the 7 inch dash. Because honestly I always fill up before I go out anyway
For the dash I would go with a garmin 73sv it should fit perfectly in that little dash area and you can hook it up to the engine with NEMA cable so you can see all the gauges on your graph
We've been waiting for months to see that thing in the water now we're ready to see it in the water now hurry up and get it in the water have a blessed day and be safe brother 🙏
just cut the holes for the switches in the dash plate under where ur putting the graph no more expense as u have th eswitches and a template so just make a panle too fit in the hole cut out the bits for ur switches jobs a gooden
The hole you ran the shift and throttle cable is too close to the control box, the cables are making a hard turn causing binding in the cables, thus making their action stiff .
Just my two cents first off i really enjoy your content very good videos. Idk about the 7” graph mounted that low might end up being more of a hassle tryin to see everything. I would stick with the panel there and use some of the black marine plywood as filler and mount the graph on a ball mount or over the steering wheel. As far as gauges just get a smart gauge of some kind in my opinion that would be the ticket
You can still use the key in the control box and add a kill switch to the dash. Its only one wire for the kill switch it just grounds out. so find the kill switch wire and run it to the dash and install a seperate kill switch
Love the “just do it” attitude man. Best way to learn is trial and error. Keep the vids coming, you’ll be an expert in no time. Thanks for the entertainment!!
I would go with at least a 9" graph mounted on top of console. Fill in that open area with gauges and your toggle switch panel. Definitely look into finding a Windshield. It'll protect your finder and block wind and rain hitting your face. You'll tired of a 7" finder real quick saying I should of went bigger and possibly struggle to see everything mounted inside the console because you won't be able to adjust the view of your preference.
For the holes, cover it with coosa board, HDPE board or hell, even a plastic cutting board and mount your switches and throttle to it. And get a 7 or 9 inch graph and mount on top. Having it there will absolutely get on your nerves, I promise you.
Turn the steering wheel to make sure the motor turns freely and cables aren't bound up in the boat wall! I made that mistake once! Switches on the left, graph on the right!
I think the last time I saw her running she had a “ lean sneeze” to her. I’d definitely get her running a bit smoother before you decide to send it. I’d hate to see you lock that motor up… don’t ask how I know… good ole 2 smokes. You’ll definitely want a RPM gauge in it. Definitely dash mount the sonar. Put the Switches port side. And finally go have some fun with her.
You will have to go smaller than a 7 inch graph if the space is 7 inches. 7 inches is the screen size, the graph is going to be at list 1 inch bigger than that.
I’d vote to mount the graph above the dash. It will accomplish what you want and you will appreciate the ability to tilt and rotate the graph depending on what you are doing.
If using the stock space in the dash puts your graph behind the the wheel, you'll hate it. You'll want it up higher and fully accessible. Put your switch panel on the right, graph centered above the wheel.
I like the idea of the inline graph but if it were me I wouldn't put a 7 inch graph there, being that small I feel it wouldnt be worth the money, if there was a way to make a whole bigger and run a 9 or 10 that's what i would do, I have 2 helix 12s and they make my 8 inch livescooe look tiny, otherwise I would focus on putting the switches there and cover the whole then put a larger graph on the left side with another graph mount like a ram mount
Your engine will not talk to a depth finder to give you RPMs. You can’t hook it up to a NMEA outlet . You will need separate gauges for rpm, fuel , trim and fuel, although GPS will give you a much more accurate speed .
Did you have to match your new control box to your motor ? If so what years is your motor I have an 89 . Want to up date my box I just don't know what one to buy
If it were my boat on the dash I would add the switch panel and a radio in the stock hole, your gonna want and the trim gauge and rpm gauge. Then put a 93sv on the top like everyone does easier on your eyes from looking up and down constantly. Tech gets old quick now a days it’ll suck in 5 years when you want to upgrade and nothing the same anymore
I would strongly suggest at least a psi gauge for your water pressure so you don’t burn that motor up that’s the only one you really need when your running it
My opinion regarding the graph placement is that you'll hate it! I say this from experience. I have a Yamarin Cross 49BR. It's not specifically a fishing boat but it's built prepared to be one so I have all the gadgets I need like graphs, minn kota and whatever. The placement of the graph on my boat is very similar to yours except it's in the middle instead of to the right. It was a PAIN to use! The steering wheel is in the way. A 7inch screen will be way too small and you'll find yourself not being able to read or use the touch screen. The steering wheel being in the way is going to make it even worse. What I did was that I got two 9inch lowrance fs elite and 3D printed brackets and holders to elevate the screens. They are just above the steering wheel in perfect eye height and perfect for the use of the touch screen. I personally think the placement way below to the right seems like a good and cool idea but in practice I think that you won't like it after actually using it.
The best way to wire up the switches to make them last is to hook power straight to the things you want switched and hook the grounds to the switches so when you flip the switch it just completes the ground. This will eliminate all of the amps and current from running through the switches. I hooked mine up the old fashioned way with power hooked to the switches and within a few months they started burning up.
Yeah that’s now how electricity works. “Kirchhoff's Current Law”Current through the switch will be the same regardless of position. There are also some major safety issues with your implementation.
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What do y’all think? Put it in the water? 🤔
I think you should put it in the water just to see if the live Wells are working and how the Motor runs in the water
its either going to go good or not good. Will be a good video either way
Put the switch panel where the gauges are
To the left of the steering wheel
And yes put it in the water next video
can't hurt. Work out some of the kinks
Awesome video as usual bro. Here is my feedback: Switches on the left console side, fish-finder on the right side, bottom right side fill it with a custom cut piece of black acrylic or even carbon fiber. Also to cover all the holes behind your new throttle I will suggest you to cut a square piece of thin white HDPE Boat Board. Good luck with the lake trial !!! 🤞🏻
Appreciate hearing the thought process as you went through it on the console layout regarding the graph and switches. I recently bought a 97 Kenner than needs rewiring and I may borrow a few of your ideas at the center console.
You’re doing a great job. You are a study in persistence and patience. It’s admirable that you don’t give up and just charge right ahead to the next challenge.
Congratulations should go to your wife who is still supporting you through this long process.
Keep up the good work.
Dude she’s really came along super far bro you’ve done great I can’t wait to see what’s next on it the 7” graph would be sick
Get a tach if you can, most important guage. Like the sound of the in dash with switches below. Make sure it is easy to take out though. And always leave a pulling wire or some twine lol, been there, always do now myself, next owner on my boat will appreciate it too lol
I’ve recently been working on a project boat and Ive learned a lot of things from this series and I’ve really enjoy these videos
Definitely get a fish finder/chart-plotter, Simrad/Lowrance/BC&G has quite a few 7" models... I run a Simrad GO7 in my boat but they're made and designed by the same people. Lowrence is the more fishing centered family of plotters. Throw some nice switches in there and if you wire in NEMA compatible devices for fuel, trim, marine radio, marine audio into a NEMA 2000 backbone and plug it into your new chart plotter, most of the information can and will be displayed on the chart plotter for you. I know it takes a little extra time to add in all the wiring, but its WELL WORTH IT to have everything communicating on the boat. The chart plotter and marine radios will be able to share each others GPS source, the chart plotter can calculate fuel flow and fuel level with a basic NEMA enabled fuel sender, and it would definitely breath some life into the old girl that you've spent so much time into reviving. Do not forget either a handheld, or hardwired marine radio. Safety is a must, brother, especially when changing and testing your boat. Can't wait to see her on the water.
I would put the switches at the top of your existing opening and then a marine stereo at the bottom. Putting them at the top makes it easier to reach them from the front of the boat. Very practical for turning your aerator on and off from the bow. Mount your graph on top of the dash where you could see it better. There are already holes there anyway.
Graph in that spot is a great idea! You got your speed, depth, water temp, sonar, some have side scan at that size.
Throw it in the water! I think you should do the switch panel on the left and graph or fish finder on the right... You should hook up a couple 12 inch lightbars on a swivel to the front of the boat for fishing at night.. you have enough switches!
Great video jordan. put your switches on the left. You graph on top right. And a radio on the right below the graph. If you spend all day you can have tunes and alert for weather.
To keep things from falling into the abyss try tucking in rags under your work. Old towels are great for that. Takes five minutes to do and can save you hours of work. Try to do it clean so that anything you drop will fall into a neat pocket.
I like your idea of a smart dash using your Sonar Graph. Doing away with the old analog instruments. Many graphs like you said will interface with your engine.
Sick idea of the graphs. And I would keep my trim gauges the rest can be obsolete once you get the graph installed. Put it in the water and catch its fish
I would have done this differently, as I would have 1.) searched around and found the right controls slightly used for that motor. 2.) do have a gas guage, temperature guage, Rpm guage, trim/tilt guage getting them all working. Why not? you'll be glad you did. You already have how many hours into this boat? I do approve of putting a 7" graph in that spot, and put a row of toggle switches for what you need from underneath it, or go on the left side with the guages. 3.) get plastic shop and have someone make you a sturdy mounting faceplate for the whole graph area. I know your in a hurry to get it out before summers over, then stop where you are, and put the boat in the water and see if it's worth continuing. That will get the monkey off your back of that motor running the way it should UNDER LOAD. Fish off the front deck, and catch some bass! Have a great time! Hopefully by weekend you will be on the water. Put stadium cushion to sit on while driving... done... 😁 Then you can get back to restoring more and fishing more at the same time. Winter will be around the corner, and that is the time for final restoration of this boat.
Agreed, I’m just looking for ideas. Winter time will be great for me to go at it with the inside of the boat!
I like the switch panel on the left side too that’ll look sick
Graph forsure,,,, do it. On my rebuild 87 champion I made sure to have a water pressure gauge to insure the impeller/water pump was cooling and also a tach it helps a lot! My 2€’s
This is so interesting 🤔. I am learning so much. You're dedication is so admirable bro. Keep it up. I cant wait to see this on the water bro
Awesome video! I definitely agree with putting the switch panel on the left where the current guages are especially since your not going to use them. As far as the graph, I would get the biggest you can afford and place it in a clear viewing area. You could still put a 7" in the right side area and use it for chart plotting and maps.
A nice piece of oak wood stained nice with several coats of clear would look great behind your throttle control. You could also do your dash the same way
Also, I do use that aux plug for my tube pump, use at least a 15amp or it’s going to blow
go with the graph . mount your switches anywhere else. they also have inexpensive rpm gauge and sensor for retro fit on Amazon.
Nice videos, I would redo the gages with black marine board. You can make the panels to how ever you like, fill in the dash holes. As far as graphs. I would put it on top of the dash. Fill in the holes and use a rammount or something like that. That way you are not limited to the size and you can see it. That way you can see it above your steering wheel. Safety!
You're doing a great job...can't wait for the next video!!
You are spot on with the dash idea. Put a graph aka MFD (multi function display) in there. I would just say make sure whatever you pick is NMEA 2000 capable. With that you can add all sorts of sensors and data you want in the future if you want. I.e. you could get RPM of the old school 2 stroke with a N2K sensor or fuel level. It’s really up to you.
Second that, and the space underneath would probably be just right for a marine radio.
if you cover the shifter hole in the body, use the plastic dry wall patch its a mesh that is peel and stick then you can use fiber bondo over the mesh and once hardened you can sand it smooth. the mesh works as a great backer.
Yes. Do u on Custom Dash. Thats what I started doing. It works. I install have a Tach, Motor temp gauge, Horn, Nav lights and added a LED Flood Light ,Bildge manual switch ,along with the automatic feature, Cig lighter for CB, and other devices.
Got to have a tach. Hook up that old Faria one on your console at the least
A MFD won’t show engine data on a motor that old but it should do everything else. I always like to have an RPM gauge cause it’s a quick and easy indicator of how the motor is running, and helps to dial in props (don’t know if you’ll do that on this one). Otherwise putting the graph/mfd in dash sounds like a great idea.
Personally I think there are 2 gauges you need. Tachometer is one if you're running the 2 stroke at to high rpm you'll grenade it quickly. Usually the manual for the outboard will list a max rpm and also the rpm range for max powerband. This also helps inform if you're running the correct prop. Your engine is probably to old to feed rpm to a graph. I'd also have a water pressure gauge probably not mandatory. One other thought is does the outboard have a primer solenoid? If so that's usually ran through the key by pushing the key in. Not sure if your new key on shifter had that. You can prime it by have but requires removing the cowling which can get annoying.
Good work mate hope to see you floating soon don't forget the drain plug 😉
It primes when you push key in!
Enjoy the build. Good luck on madden voyage.
A piece of gator skins will cover holes by throttle. Black pebble finish will be badass.
I had a boat with an Raymarine in dash graph. What I would say is it was great, but I would mount yours with some way to shim it or adjust the angle. When the sun would get bright it was difficult to see. I would have to move my eye position to read it, and that was annoying. Now, I will say that was like 8 years ago, and I think that they have after market shield that will go over the graph that may minimize it or it's a problem that doesn't exist anymore. Either way it's a good way to fill that hole. It's getting close can't wait to see it on the water.
I would cut the fuses off the switches to have more power when hooking thing up as in lights etc
I suggested that shifter to you in the comments of the last video! It works great for me. I’m not using the key on the unit because mine is a pull start. I don’t think you’ll have any issues either way!
One tip i learned, put a towel at the bottom of the engine to catch stuff you may drop. Keeps it from going deep in the body of the engine
Aluminum plate to fit. With switch’s below. Paint it black. And install it. We do it all the time.
Anyone going to mention the wrap on the boat? Did I miss a video? Lol
Love the work keep it up!
🤫🤫🤫🤫
I did my own dash out of 1/4" plastic sheets. That allowed me to put my switches wherever I wanted. The boat looks nice so far!
Good idea!
I used a smart one of those in my ice shanty. It worked great!
Put a plate on that hole and mount your switches and graph to the plate. It'll look clean.
Just made my own custom dash for my 1997 PII. Purchased the A10 and they made me the wiring harness $240.00 total with a Bezel. Added the Gauges I wanted and used PVC to fill the hole.
Go ahead and install the graph. It will be a fun watch...
I think custom fitting the fish finder into the dash would be a really cool touch.
Man that’s a tough one I like the switch panel and with the empty slot you could put in a radio lol. However being that your not going to replace the original ones which I do agree with I like your idea with the 7 inch dash. Because honestly I always fill up before I go out anyway
For the dash I would go with a garmin 73sv it should fit perfectly in that little dash area and you can hook it up to the engine with NEMA cable so you can see all the gauges on your graph
The ecomap 93sv might fit in that hole
Been watching since very first video... wats the part number for the throttle assembly, have the same motor nd needed a new one
That’s awesome your doing great. i do have a question? what’s the camo on the back of the boat?
We've been waiting for months to see that thing in the water now we're ready to see it in the water now hurry up and get it in the water have a blessed day and be safe brother 🙏
just cut the holes for the switches in the dash plate under where ur putting the graph no more expense as u have th eswitches and a template so just make a panle too fit in the hole cut out the bits for ur switches jobs a gooden
Don't have to make the maiden voyage so suspenseful. Put it in the water bro! We are waiting...lol
Grab a 1000 CCA group 24 battery. And then arco starter/solenoid. You will be all set
things U should have on dash. Tach, water pressure, volt meter & hydraulic lift gauge!
I need to replace the starter on my ‘86 Johnson too. Where do you order it from? It’s my first boat! Thanks!
The hole you ran the shift and throttle cable is too close to the control box, the cables are making a hard turn causing binding in the cables, thus making their action stiff .
The hard turn to the cables will cause them to wear out much more quickly .
Just my two cents first off i really enjoy your content very good videos. Idk about the 7” graph mounted that low might end up being more of a hassle tryin to see everything. I would stick with the panel there and use some of the black marine plywood as filler and mount the graph on a ball mount or over the steering wheel. As far as gauges just get a smart gauge of some kind in my opinion that would be the ticket
You can still use the key in the control box and add a kill switch to the dash. Its only one wire for the kill switch it just grounds out. so find the kill switch wire and run it to the dash and install a seperate kill switch
Love the “just do it” attitude man. Best way to learn is trial and error. Keep the vids coming, you’ll be an expert in no time. Thanks for the entertainment!!
Thankyou for watching!
pro trim is a must have
I would go with at least a 9" graph mounted on top of console. Fill in that open area with gauges and your toggle switch panel. Definitely look into finding a Windshield. It'll protect your finder and block wind and rain hitting your face. You'll tired of a 7" finder real quick saying I should of went bigger and possibly struggle to see everything mounted inside the console because you won't be able to adjust the view of your preference.
Like the graph idea but I would want a water pressure gauge and tach.
For the holes, cover it with coosa board, HDPE board or hell, even a plastic cutting board and mount your switches and throttle to it. And get a 7 or 9 inch graph and mount on top. Having it there will absolutely get on your nerves, I promise you.
Cutting board is great for saving $ on fabrication!
I love the videos man!
Turn the steering wheel to make sure the motor turns freely and cables aren't bound up in the boat wall! I made that mistake once! Switches on the left, graph on the right!
Did you camo your boat with a wrap or did it come that way
Hey you should try out the red band reals there so good
Good work man
I think the last time I saw her running she had a “ lean sneeze” to her. I’d definitely get her running a bit smoother before you decide to send it. I’d hate to see you lock that motor up… don’t ask how I know… good ole 2 smokes. You’ll definitely want a RPM gauge in it.
Definitely dash mount the sonar. Put the Switches port side. And finally go have some fun with her.
I got that Amazon dash, I rewired the whole thing and the switches are cheap
You will have to go smaller than a 7 inch graph if the space is 7 inches. 7 inches is the screen size, the graph is going to be at list 1 inch bigger than that.
I’d vote to mount the graph above the dash. It will accomplish what you want and you will appreciate the ability to tilt and rotate the graph depending on what you are doing.
New graphs won’t show rpm on that motor. You’d have to get like a 2003 or newer to run an nmea network to the graph.
If using the stock space in the dash puts your graph behind the the wheel, you'll hate it. You'll want it up higher and fully accessible. Put your switch panel on the right, graph centered above the wheel.
Absolutely agree
When did you do the wrap?
I think you're onto something with the switches on the left and a graph.
I like the idea of the inline graph but if it were me I wouldn't put a 7 inch graph there, being that small I feel it wouldnt be worth the money, if there was a way to make a whole bigger and run a 9 or 10 that's what i would do, I have 2 helix 12s and they make my 8 inch livescooe look tiny, otherwise I would focus on putting the switches there and cover the whole then put a larger graph on the left side with another graph mount like a ram mount
7 inch is tiny but will be cheap but not like you have a new motor that plugs in
Your engine will not talk to a depth finder to give you RPMs. You can’t hook it up to a NMEA outlet .
You will need separate gauges for rpm, fuel , trim and fuel, although GPS will give you a much more accurate speed .
Did you have to match your new control box to your motor ? If so what years is your motor I have an 89 . Want to up date my box I just don't know what one to buy
No thank you
If it were my boat on the dash I would add the switch panel and a radio in the stock hole, your gonna want and the trim gauge and rpm gauge. Then put a 93sv on the top like everyone does easier on your eyes from looking up and down constantly. Tech gets old quick now a days it’ll suck in 5 years when you want to upgrade and nothing the same anymore
Do you have a link to the switch panel you bought?
You only need 2 gauges tach & water pressure.
Starter is toast, I had the same issue
New as 2020????
put the switches on the left would look way better
I would strongly suggest at least a psi gauge for your water pressure so you don’t burn that motor up that’s the only one you really need when your running it
I think it’s a great idea bro try it
Graph on right switch on left no body needs gauges
I think a tachometer is very important to have.
fit in a helix 5 on a backer with gps.
Id do rpm guage and water pressure at least.
My opinion regarding the graph placement is that you'll hate it! I say this from experience. I have a Yamarin Cross 49BR. It's not specifically a fishing boat but it's built prepared to be one so I have all the gadgets I need like graphs, minn kota and whatever. The placement of the graph on my boat is very similar to yours except it's in the middle instead of to the right. It was a PAIN to use! The steering wheel is in the way. A 7inch screen will be way too small and you'll find yourself not being able to read or use the touch screen. The steering wheel being in the way is going to make it even worse. What I did was that I got two 9inch lowrance fs elite and 3D printed brackets and holders to elevate the screens. They are just above the steering wheel in perfect eye height and perfect for the use of the touch screen. I personally think the placement way below to the right seems like a good and cool idea but in practice I think that you won't like it after actually using it.
rpm gage a must
Make it push button
Do the graph!!!
Deep cycles aren’t good starting batteries.
The best way to wire up the switches to make them last is to hook power straight to the things you want switched and hook the grounds to the switches so when you flip the switch it just completes the ground. This will eliminate all of the amps and current from running through the switches. I hooked mine up the old fashioned way with power hooked to the switches and within a few months they started burning up.
Yeah that’s now how electricity works. “Kirchhoff's Current Law”Current through the switch will be the same regardless of position. There are also some major safety issues with your implementation.
The quickest way to ruin a starter is using a deep cycle battery. Get a cranking battery, the starter will last much much longer.
Graph, single row switches, rpm, water pressure.