Man this is awesome. I am actually doing the IRS in my coupe right now and did the rear subframe mod that you showed in another video and wow that does give more clearance. Now that you did the 315, can you share photos of what you did to get those to fit. If you mini tubbed, did you have to move the coil overs? I do my own welding and fab work too but want to see what you did if that will make things easier for me. Thanks for anything that you can share via photos. If you rather use my email address, I can share that too.
Thanks, since it has never been done I was hoping someone would guess how I did it. I will be putting up a video of how it was done but was hoping someone would guess first. It is mini tubbed, but that leaves no room for shocks or spring perches but the stock attachment points to the lower control arms have to be used
I assume there are more ways to skin a cat with that mod so here goes. 1. You cut the rear subframe mounting pad off and moved that inward towards the inner frame rails 2. You moved the coil over shock assembly inward on the lower A-Arms while also taking out the new shock mounts you made and moved them inward as well. I've thought about all this as well. The rear subframe plates that you made does clear but at some point you will hit the coil over spring/shock assembly. This is really cool what you did though. What is the backspacing on the wheels and what width are they with the 315's?
Close but you gotta think out of the box. 1. Yes 2. Can’t fit coil overs in there without completely modifying the frame and you can’t change the mounting point on the lower A arms because the tire would have too much leverage and you would need insanely high spring rates. You would also probably have to go to a fuel cell. I’m using the stock tank and exhaust. There are no coil overs, shocks or springs in the wheel well. I’m not sure of the offset. I bought some old school three piece wheels that sat where I wanted relative to the fender lip, mounted them and measured what size inner barrel I needed and ordered it. The wheels are 12 1/2 inches and There’s room to fit a 345 under there. The simple answer is cantilever suspension in the trunk.!! The hard answer is designing it so everything clears because tolerances are very tight between the frame rail and pushrods, the sway bar and the rear part of the sub frame that is modified and the wheels and spring perches/parking brake cable. Also designing the geometry, shock size, spring rates, bell cranks and motion ratios takes a lot of time as well
OMG man you went cantilever on us. Wow, you’re the man 💯. How does it ride? Absolutely ingenious with what you did and keeping the factory tank and all. Oh and one other question, how much power did the boss block and stock cam make?
It rides great. Really hooks up out of a turn now. I have double adjustable coil overs. I need to get to a track and dial them in. Right now I have everything on full soft and it rides much better than when I had Maxwell motorsports Coilovers in the back. (Which are for sale by the way.500 miles) As soon as I finished that Twin Turbo boss build I drove it around the block once and took it all out. It now has an all Forged Coyote in it with a magnum. See video for build
@@dmax5323 That is fantastic Sir. I can't wait to see how you did it all. The most that I am going to do is what you did to the rear subframe for now and run a 285/35/18 which will still fit for me for now. I do have the ability to make my own cantilever system though if I ever want to go with a tire that wide. That's a bad boy AND you were able to retain the factory fuel tank and tailpipes. Standing by for the next video with this data. Man I wanted to know if the boss block with the stock cam would have done. I've done plenty of coyotes and want to go back to old school.
A beautiful fox, love the wheels and fitment.
Very nice
Man this is awesome. I am actually doing the IRS in my coupe right now and did the rear subframe mod that you showed in another video and wow that does give more clearance. Now that you did the 315, can you share photos of what you did to get those to fit. If you mini tubbed, did you have to move the coil overs? I do my own welding and fab work too but want to see what you did if that will make things easier for me. Thanks for anything that you can share via photos. If you rather use my email address, I can share that too.
very nice car🔥👍🏿🐐😂
Thanks, since it has never been done I was hoping someone would guess how I did it. I will be putting up a video of how it was done but was hoping someone would guess first. It is mini tubbed, but that leaves no room for shocks or spring perches but the stock attachment points to the lower control arms have to be used
I assume there are more ways to skin a cat with that mod so here goes. 1. You cut the rear subframe mounting pad off and moved that inward towards the inner frame rails 2. You moved the coil over shock assembly inward on the lower A-Arms while also taking out the new shock mounts you made and moved them inward as well. I've thought about all this as well. The rear subframe plates that you made does clear but at some point you will hit the coil over spring/shock assembly. This is really cool what you did though. What is the backspacing on the wheels and what width are they with the 315's?
Close but you gotta think out of the box.
1. Yes
2. Can’t fit coil overs in there without completely modifying the frame and you can’t change the mounting point on the lower A arms because the tire would have too much leverage and you would need insanely high spring rates. You would also probably have to go to a fuel cell. I’m using the stock tank and exhaust. There are no coil overs, shocks or springs in the wheel well.
I’m not sure of the offset. I bought some old school three piece wheels that sat where I wanted relative to the fender lip, mounted them and measured what size inner barrel I needed and ordered it. The wheels are 12 1/2 inches and There’s room to fit a 345 under there.
The simple answer is cantilever suspension in the trunk.!! The hard answer is designing it so everything clears because tolerances are very tight between the frame rail and pushrods, the sway bar and the rear part of the sub frame that is modified and the wheels and spring perches/parking brake cable. Also designing the geometry, shock size, spring rates, bell cranks and motion ratios takes a lot of time as well
OMG man you went cantilever on us. Wow, you’re the man 💯. How does it ride? Absolutely ingenious with what you did and keeping the factory tank and all. Oh and one other question, how much power did the boss block and stock cam make?
It rides great. Really hooks up out of a turn now. I have double adjustable coil overs. I need to get to a track and dial them in. Right now I have everything on full soft and it rides much better than when I had Maxwell motorsports Coilovers in the back. (Which are for sale by the way.500 miles) As soon as I finished that Twin Turbo boss build I drove it around the block once and took it all out. It now has an all Forged Coyote in it with a magnum. See video for build
@@dmax5323 That is fantastic Sir. I can't wait to see how you did it all. The most that I am going to do is what you did to the rear subframe for now and run a 285/35/18 which will still fit for me for now. I do have the ability to make my own cantilever system though if I ever want to go with a tire that wide. That's a bad boy AND you were able to retain the factory fuel tank and tailpipes. Standing by for the next video with this data. Man I wanted to know if the boss block with the stock cam would have done. I've done plenty of coyotes and want to go back to old school.
Hard tail mounted ? Inside the rear frame rails
I designed and built a cantilever suspension with pushrods