JM, I am an Irrigation Engineer. A couple of thoughts: 1) Are you sure the well is running dry, or is the pump running dry? Often pumps are not set at the bottom of the well. Perhaps you can lower it. 2) have you had someone look into your irrigation schedule? Often, people over apply, leaching water beyond the rootzone where it is not even available to the plant roots. Proper irrigation scheduling is about filling up the root zone, but no more (unless you need to leach salts). There are some easy methods to determine your irrigation depth to make sure you are not watering too deeply, such as pushing a rod into the ground until you meet serious resistance. 3) crop evapotranspiration is what it is. If the soil is covered (e.g. straw or plastic mulch) it can reduce the "evapo", but it won't effect the "transpiration". So increasing soil water storage won't necessarily help if your irrigation schedule is correct. Just some thoughts. Happy to talk more if you like.
Our site is in the far north of Scotland, and up on a ridge. We get no overland flow, and typically have very dry summers, but in winter our tree rows would suffer from waterlogging unless we'd addressed it. So I've dug swales for planting trees on, with each swale fitted with a pipe monk. This allows me to hold onto every drop of rain in summer, when I need it, but drain the whole system in winter. The trees on the swale berms get 2 feet of soil above the waterlogged soil this way, and don't drown in winter. I've installed 5 small unlined ponds for biodiversity, and to hold onto major rain events, and slowly allow the moisture to seep into the ground over the following weeks and months. Moving forward, I aim to increase our water resiliency. I'm planning a large pond at the bottom of the site, to hold onto all the winter rains. We'll use it to grow fish for our use, and fit a wind powered pump to trickle water up to the top of the site, where I'll have a tank. this tank will give me gravity fed water for the veg gardens next to the house, in the middle of the slope. All runoff from buildings, greenhouses and the car park will be fed into the big pond. I also plan on deepening my existing ponds, because all but one dried up this summer. It's been the biggest drought since 1976, or 1961, depending on who I ask. More of the same, and worse, is inevitable in the coming years, and I hope to be prepared for it.
Wow, you have certainly put a lot of thought and work into your water management. Interesting to hear that you are facing such a drought as well. I'm keeping all your ideas in mind, thanks for all the info =)
Have you thought about taking a page out of Sep Holzer's book by using hügelkulturs and swales? By storing your water underground it is less likely to evaporate and the plants can use it as they need it. You could implement a Hügelkultur as a wind brake, and it would hold water for the rows to either side of it. Those trees you unfortunatly had to cut down could be used in the hügelkultur, mushroom production, fish habitat, or converted into biochar. You are beautiful people, keep spreading the light.
Hügelkultur is not economically viable, to much work, too impractical for crop rotations, it is fine for hobby gardeners not for commercial farms... swales make sense in semi arid land not in humid temperate canada, you would drown most of your crop and waterlog soil every time there is a storm turning your land into a swamp...
@@vineleak7676 For his scenario I thought to use it as a replacement for a hedgerow. It would block the wind and still provide habitat for birds. It would have the added benefit of being able to harvest from it. It would then hold water for the rows to either side of it. The swale would be to keep the water from running off his property. At this point I think he would rather deal with having too much water and having to divert it than not enough water.
Vous avez bien fait. Nous n avons plus le choix. Il nous faut nous adapter à la gestion de l eau. Bon courage et merci pour vos vidéos tellement importantes. Nous avons besoin de vous 😅😀
Je demeure sur la côte centrale de Californie présentement pour un contrat de travail et j'observe quotidiennement les énormes champs de fraises et d'artichauds qui sont constamment irrigués, malgré les sécheresses répétées et l'hiver très sec que nous avons eu. À quelques kilomètres à peine, les traces de forêts de redwoods brûlées il y a deux ans. Juste à vue, c'est impossible de penser que ce soit un modèle soutenable. On pourrait aussi parler des méthodes d'agriculture employées: des champs jamais au repos, toujours en production active été comme hiver, des terres constamment retournées par de la machinerie lourde. Les sols sont morts, carrément! 100% respect pour ton travail JM!
You might want to check out Richard Perkins' pond building vid. He used a geo-textile(a clay-impregnated textile) that seals the bottom of the pond and prevents the water from being absorbed too much by the surrounding soil. That might be something to look into. You also might want to consider having a giant, underground Concrete Cistern installed on your property. All your rainwater could be captured in there and used as a water "battery". A lot of people here on the West Coast have their waterfront houses built on these.
Stagnant ponds tend to eutrophy. To prevent that, you can install a bubbler (basically a pump & perforated pipes that send air to the bottom of the pond), or you can make an artificial marsh. To be effective, the marsh needs to be about the same area as the deep part of the pond. A problem I see is that you are essentially using your pond to store water, so it will probably have a maximum water level in the spring, and the water level will fall over the summer, probably reaching a minimum in September. It's hard to make a marsh in those conditions. You'll need to seal the pond, and vegetate the sides to prevent erosion.
Thanks for the tips Alex. Our swimming pond has a bubbler and we definitely plan to make sure our big pond is wildlife friendly and that the water is healthy as well.
Here in Mendoza we fill our irrigation pond with basically snowmelt from fast receding glaciers way up in the Andes. Pretty scary. We will for sure be doubling our pond in a year or two as well. The bright side of this is that we are all to aware of just how precious this resource is. Gone will be the days of waste, we can’t afford to continue being so ignorant. Thanks Jm, you’re one of my heroes. Keep it up and we send you lots of love from Argentina
we spent several days on our property (Two Roads Farm in BC) digging our irrigation pond as big as we could afford, we brought in the biggest excavator on the island and went 22' deep, it has given us about 800000 gallons of storage, all filled form winter runoff. it was the best ROI on any investment we have made, as this year we had no (zero!) measurable rainfall between early june and mid septermber, after one of the driest springs on record too. and 40C summer highs. it has been eye opening for sure. we have scope to expand the pond further in the future, and we're actively planning on catching rainfall from our 3 main greenhouses. its not a laughing matter. the owners of the land we lease next door have agreed to dredge their secondary holding pond for the first time in 45 years. so thats this fall project. right now the rain is pouring outside, bring it on.
I'm in northwest Arkansas, and we collect and funnel all the rainwater coming off our buildings, as well as directing runoff. It's a huge amount, and allows us to be water independent.
Bonjour Maude Hélène et Jean Martin, Comme tu l'as fais remarquer l'utilisation de l'eau est un enjeu crucial en agriculture. Face au changement climatique, il faut s'attendre à l'augmentation en fréquence et en intensité d'événements climatiques extrêmes. Au sujet de l'eau, cela peux se traduire par de la sécheresse mais aussi des inondations. Sur notre ferme nous avons eu 3 ans de sécheresse, suivit par une année d'inondations. Afin de pouvoir nourrir notre communauté, nous allons devoir transformer notre ferme pour faire face à ses deux cas de figure. Notre réflexion est la suivante. 1 Drainer le terrain pour évacuer tout surplus d'eau. Les champs mais aussi les serres, les toits des bâtiments, bref toutes les surfaces horizontales. 2 Collecter toute cette eau (si possible par gravité ça coûte moins cher) et en stocker le plus grand volume possible. Dans l'idéal avoir un stockage correspondant à notre consommation annuelle. 3 Irriguer que quand c'est strictement nécessaire. Pour cela nous utilisons une tarière spéciale pour évaluer le stress hydrique du sol. 4 Avoir des outils adaptés, donc goute à goute quand c'est possible (toujours avec des bâche hors sol pour ne pas avoir à binner sur les goute à goute) sinon micro aspersion. 5 Limiter les pertes, cela comprend localiser (utilisant un compteur d'eau) et réparer les fuites. Mais également en privilégiant l'arrosage de nuit où sous bâche hors sol pour limiter l'évapo-transpiration. C'est un travail de longue haleine mais nécessaire, nous avançons par étape en suivant ses principes, en espérant y arriver dans quelques années. Bonne continuation à vous, et bon courage pour la suite.
perhaps you might want to think of collecting water of all the greenhouses as well. I am in Norway and we used to have gutters on the greenhouses to move water away. this is however no longer needed which is scary to think about. the greenhouses seem to have quite a lot of surface at your farm.Also i heard you talk about a swampy area, and although the swamps are of ecological importance you might be able to tapp water there, at least until a desired level. I hope you soon get some rain and thanks for the content!
Old tales of past scratching ground around plants 1 week before new moon 1 week after new moon to help capillary action when water is rising into below ground roots and then 1 week after new moon when energy is below and above co.bined and only watering plants around full moon when that water goes to plant above ground Sounds silly but definitely reduces the need for water and produces hard plants
Greetings from Israel, I just saw a few of your older videos before getting to that one and I must say it is scary to see how dramatic is the change of the availability of water to your farm, here in Israel we have a shortage of water all most all year around and for us the only real solution is a good dripping pipe’s system combined with different mulching and shading methods that really cut the amount of “wasted” water. It makes me want to cry to think that this kind of equipment will soon be a must, even in places like Canada . Any way thanks allot for all the informative videos and keep up with the great work your doing over there.
Fresh tree company wood chips in a deep mulch 18in plus then I let it break down over winter then pull it back and plant in it retained great moisture may need to give it some manure or green manure needs nitrogen but it did great! I'll be setting up a ibc on a stand to my gutters for more water banking next year Also I've been building huglekulter mounds which are awesome
Just thought I would mention that crops grown in ventilated tunnels will use a fraction of the amount needed for the same crop grown outside the tunnel. Back 20 years ago Penn State Extension did an experiment... they had a container of water inside a tunnel and one on the outside of the tunnel. Evaporation outside of the tunnel was greater than twice what it was in the tunnel. This is because relative humidity in the tunnel will be higher than outside and thus transpiration rate inside will be reduced.
I'm late to this video, but one way I've found to cut back on water usage in general is by incorporating activated biochar - a 5% amendment results in a 24% increase in water holding capacity. Making activated biochar is really easy. One of the best videos on a simple method can be found on the YT channel called The Weedy Garden - it's the method I use. The other part about biochar use is the soil's microbiome uses the carbon as an energy source - good way to keep your soil's microbes the happy campers and, by extension, your plants as well! My last batch of composting had about 20% biochar [I'm experimenting]. Even at your scale of established grow beds, beyond initial labor, I see no reason why you couldn't incorporate activated biochar use. I live in the Mid-Atlantic Region here in the States and it's been a 'feast or famine' scenario with rain fall - nothing consistent as was like even five years ago. With the current rate of global ice melt...well...it ain't gonna get better. Anyone who thinks global warming is a hoax is barking mad and bat shit crazy...just saying. Enjoying your videos! Cheers...
@@TheMarketGardeners Me thinks and fears 'water famine' is here to stay for reasons we both understand. Water management via 'catchment(s)' is one approach; although, there are States here in the US that outlaws rain water harvesting of any sort - go figure. I think a more fundamental approach lies within soil; thus, my activated biochar use [and ratio experimentation]. Another approach to managing plant hydration I'm using is biologically active foliar feeding - it's easy to make and you can control the NPK content. The results are faster growth, healthier plants and better blossom set(s). Example: My cherry tomatoes had 45-50 blossoms per cluster with 25-30 clusters per plant and no blossom drop - super productive [at least for me that is]. Based on my results, I'm sold on using the plant's stomata's as an additional management tool for both hydration and feeding [microbes for the plant's immune system and minerals for plant food]. Just some thoughts. Cheers...
Ice melt leads to ocean cooling, it's old geological knowledge, one has to be mad to think otherwise, in fact higher temps leads to more oceanic evaporation which leads to more rain. It's ALL in the geological record! :)
JM, have you ever considered the grass fed methods used by Jim Kovaleski in Maine? His area of Mains is under severe drought and he is continuing to produce abundance.
There was a recent article in the MOFGA newsletter (I’m sure you can find it) describing how to store ground water. Basically a large pit20x20x20, collection pipes in bottom, then big layer of 1-2” stone where the water is stored, cover with silt fabric then cover with soil. No evaporation. This size is more for a home and garden but could be scaled up. Also avoids cost of drilling a well that accesses water in an aquifer from maybe centuries ago that is being removed faster than it recharges, like in California. You current strategies are impressive!
Hi JM great vids may I suggest you use your permaculture design expertise to design swales, underground pipes to direct water where you require? Talk with Geoff Lawton in Australia
I'm just seeing this video now but you could have put out if anybody wanted to start and came that day so when they were digging they could have just put it in a truck. Food for thought next time it's all good I'm enjoying yourListening to the French because I'm from northern Maine and it always sounds funnier in French when you say things then it does in English and I love it
baissières/drains qui rejoignent l'étang, je trouverais un moyen de récupérer l'eau des tunnels également ainsi que toute l'eau des toits des bâtiments, enfin peut être créer une réserve enterré si vraiment les conditions sont extrêmes pour limiter l'évaporation de l'eau des bassins, j'espère que sa n'ira pas jusque là pour vous !
It may also help to cover the pond in floating plants like lilies or duckweed to reduce evaporation. Not sure how much you’re losing to evaporation but further south it’s something we have to think about.
Seems like the big change was...you are intense farmming using more and more bigger greenhouse. So its normal you use more water (althou your produtivity is possibly even more then the grow in the use of water.). No need to feed guilt or worried. The ponds looks great.
We live in the Missouri Ozarks off grid... We have a pond, rain catch and a drilled well with a bison pump.. still we conserve water.. Planted 120 lns of potato seed and never watered.. got around 500 lbs at harvest... The key for us is a deep layer of wood chips... Holds in the moisture.. be hard to add into your model I'm sure but something to consider... Praying you get rain soon..
JM catch water - no barrels on down pipes - the maths are there - 1inch of rain on a thousand square feet of roof gives you 500 gallons ( USA short measure)- Dew ponds are useful also on some areas.
Using arid adapted crops that people are willing to eat is one thing I’m struggling with here in Flagstaff, AZ. Berms and swales are best way to capture run off here but hard to adapt to a market garden system…I still thing the three sisters is one of the best cropping systems for long term sustainability but hard to have high turn over with those…things I’m constantly thinking about…I feel ya!
J'étais il y a encore peu de temps fan des mares mais la situation actuelle de déficit de pluie (aussi le décalage des tombées) et les discutions avec les diverses acteurs de l'écologie et de la préservation de l'eau m'ont convaincu que ce n'est malheureusement pas une solution durable. Même s'il faut préserver les points d'eaux naturels cela devient une aberration de stocker l'eau à l'air libre, les pertes en évaporation sont beaucoup trop importantes, à tel point que dans ma région, Indre, France, des subventions ont été lancées pour combler des étangs/mares artificielles (nous en sommes à la 7ème année de déficit hydrométrique). Je pense que les arbres principalement et le couvert végétal sont de bien meilleurs "stockeurs" d'eau grâce à leur système racinaire qui infiltrent les pluies en profondeur et alimentent les nappes. Cela dit, votre démarche reste tout à fait louable et je vous souhaite une très bonne continuation. Merci.
Just an idea. Have you ever thought of using drainage tiles in the field blocks, the directing them to the ponds. It is filtered by the soil. If you have clay, you may need a sock. RUclips AgPHD for more information.
Hi JM Wells are geting dry all around us here in Poland. In my opinion there is only one way to deal with this problems, whole farm design using permaculture, Keyline etc. That May be really tricky, a specyally on such established farms as yours. Take care
Here in S. Illinois the weather has been great. In the summer it doesn't rain for weeks but there is always plenty of water. Farmers pump it from the rivers. There is an old well at my house that was drilled in the 70s but produces sulfur water so was not used. Not sure if I could ever use that for watering the gardens and don't know if it would be worth the cost of getting it going again. Surprised to hear you are having a drought there. Before there was city water everyone here had cisterns and wells.
Not everywhere in the UK, we’ve been bone dry for months in the north west, Lake District reservoirs at 40%, rather than their usual 70%. Urgent drought warnings coming from water company
Hi! Q to anyone who might know, curious, would you line a pond like this with any type of material to stop water seeping out into the surrounding land?
One thing that I’ve observed on the farm I work on is that the fields below the slope of our native prairie stay saturated for significantly longer. My hypothesis is that the (80ish %) increased subsoil biomass has a sort of a reverse wicking effect where the native prairie slows the water, the soil penetration for water is increased and so it slowly releases access water to the fields below. Perhaps planting slopes with deeply rooted native prairie and adding a swale near the terminus of the slope and then channeling it into a catchment would work and have an increased or compound effect? Also, I know it’s pretty much blaspheme to suggest but I’ve been curious about the water diverting potential of creating intentional, controlled hardpan to create runoff lanes.
Do you process/treat your water collected for irrigation? There's virtually no surface water in our area that isn't contaminated with the likes of e-coli and other bad guys.
Ça a l'air un sacré sacrifice de couper ces arbres. On espere que l'étang va compenser cette perte en attirant plus de faune. Pour les techniques, une façon écologique de récupérer de l'eau est les eaux de ruissellement selon les pentes de votre terrain. (Voir les baissières de Dominique ruclips.net/video/dXevmgWuS2Q/видео.html)
Are well has been running dry and from the previous owner over 30 years it had never ran dry. I wonder if the bioengineering or chem trails spraying the aluminum , barium and other metals is putting a barrier in the ground that’s hindering our aquifers.
Your neighbors well at 200 Ridge Street is 61 meters depth, Your neighbor to the north at Domaine du Ridge well depth is 22.9 meters and slightly further east at 1599 Chem. des Sapins is 38.7 meters depth, from Quebec public records. Based on these numbers you have a very shallow well. it is not uncommon in California for wells to be 200+ meters deep. You have billions of gallons in a lake 5 miles east at 100ft MSL beneath your farm 300ft MSL. You should drill another well before you go throwing money away hauling water
JM, I am an Irrigation Engineer. A couple of thoughts: 1) Are you sure the well is running dry, or is the pump running dry? Often pumps are not set at the bottom of the well. Perhaps you can lower it. 2) have you had someone look into your irrigation schedule? Often, people over apply, leaching water beyond the rootzone where it is not even available to the plant roots. Proper irrigation scheduling is about filling up the root zone, but no more (unless you need to leach salts). There are some easy methods to determine your irrigation depth to make sure you are not watering too deeply, such as pushing a rod into the ground until you meet serious resistance. 3) crop evapotranspiration is what it is. If the soil is covered (e.g. straw or plastic mulch) it can reduce the "evapo", but it won't effect the "transpiration". So increasing soil water storage won't necessarily help if your irrigation schedule is correct. Just some thoughts. Happy to talk more if you like.
Our site is in the far north of Scotland, and up on a ridge. We get no overland flow, and typically have very dry summers, but in winter our tree rows would suffer from waterlogging unless we'd addressed it. So I've dug swales for planting trees on, with each swale fitted with a pipe monk. This allows me to hold onto every drop of rain in summer, when I need it, but drain the whole system in winter. The trees on the swale berms get 2 feet of soil above the waterlogged soil this way, and don't drown in winter.
I've installed 5 small unlined ponds for biodiversity, and to hold onto major rain events, and slowly allow the moisture to seep into the ground over the following weeks and months.
Moving forward, I aim to increase our water resiliency. I'm planning a large pond at the bottom of the site, to hold onto all the winter rains. We'll use it to grow fish for our use, and fit a wind powered pump to trickle water up to the top of the site, where I'll have a tank. this tank will give me gravity fed water for the veg gardens next to the house, in the middle of the slope. All runoff from buildings, greenhouses and the car park will be fed into the big pond.
I also plan on deepening my existing ponds, because all but one dried up this summer. It's been the biggest drought since 1976, or 1961, depending on who I ask. More of the same, and worse, is inevitable in the coming years, and I hope to be prepared for it.
Wow, you have certainly put a lot of thought and work into your water management. Interesting to hear that you are facing such a drought as well. I'm keeping all your ideas in mind, thanks for all the info =)
@@TheMarketGardeners keep up the new style videos, they're excellent.
Have you thought about taking a page out of Sep Holzer's book by using hügelkulturs and swales? By storing your water underground it is less likely to evaporate and the plants can use it as they need it. You could implement a Hügelkultur as a wind brake, and it would hold water for the rows to either side of it. Those trees you unfortunatly had to cut down could be used in the hügelkultur, mushroom production, fish habitat, or converted into biochar. You are beautiful people, keep spreading the light.
Hügelkultur is not economically viable, to much work, too impractical for crop rotations, it is fine for hobby gardeners not for commercial farms... swales make sense in semi arid land not in humid temperate canada, you would drown most of your crop and waterlog soil every time there is a storm turning your land into a swamp...
@@vineleak7676 For his scenario I thought to use it as a replacement for a hedgerow. It would block the wind and still provide habitat for birds. It would have the added benefit of being able to harvest from it. It would then hold water for the rows to either side of it. The swale would be to keep the water from running off his property. At this point I think he would rather deal with having too much water and having to divert it than not enough water.
Awesome to have you back on the tube.
Vous avez bien fait.
Nous n avons plus le choix.
Il nous faut nous adapter à la gestion de l eau. Bon courage et merci pour vos vidéos tellement importantes. Nous avons besoin de vous 😅😀
JM, I'm doing drainage right now and I think you just insirped me to put a pond in instead of draining off of the property, bless you.
Je demeure sur la côte centrale de Californie présentement pour un contrat de travail et j'observe quotidiennement les énormes champs de fraises et d'artichauds qui sont constamment irrigués, malgré les sécheresses répétées et l'hiver très sec que nous avons eu. À quelques kilomètres à peine, les traces de forêts de redwoods brûlées il y a deux ans. Juste à vue, c'est impossible de penser que ce soit un modèle soutenable. On pourrait aussi parler des méthodes d'agriculture employées: des champs jamais au repos, toujours en production active été comme hiver, des terres constamment retournées par de la machinerie lourde. Les sols sont morts, carrément!
100% respect pour ton travail JM!
You might want to check out Richard Perkins' pond building vid. He used a geo-textile(a clay-impregnated textile) that seals the bottom of the pond and prevents the water from being absorbed too much by the surrounding soil. That might be something to look into. You also might want to consider having a giant, underground Concrete Cistern installed on your property. All your rainwater could be captured in there and used as a water "battery". A lot of people here on the West Coast have their waterfront houses built on these.
Stagnant ponds tend to eutrophy. To prevent that, you can install a bubbler (basically a pump & perforated pipes that send air to the bottom of the pond), or you can make an artificial marsh. To be effective, the marsh needs to be about the same area as the deep part of the pond. A problem I see is that you are essentially using your pond to store water, so it will probably have a maximum water level in the spring, and the water level will fall over the summer, probably reaching a minimum in September. It's hard to make a marsh in those conditions. You'll need to seal the pond, and vegetate the sides to prevent erosion.
Thanks for the tips Alex. Our swimming pond has a bubbler and we definitely plan to make sure our big pond is wildlife friendly and that the water is healthy as well.
Here in Mendoza we fill our irrigation pond with basically snowmelt from fast receding glaciers way up in the Andes. Pretty scary. We will for sure be doubling our pond in a year or two as well. The bright side of this is that we are all to aware of just how precious this resource is. Gone will be the days of waste, we can’t afford to continue being so ignorant. Thanks Jm, you’re one of my heroes. Keep it up and we send you lots of love from Argentina
thank you so much for the kind words Adam, I wish you the best in Argentina as well =)
we spent several days on our property (Two Roads Farm in BC) digging our irrigation pond as big as we could afford, we brought in the biggest excavator on the island and went 22' deep, it has given us about 800000 gallons of storage, all filled form winter runoff. it was the best ROI on any investment we have made, as this year we had no (zero!) measurable rainfall between early june and mid septermber, after one of the driest springs on record too. and 40C summer highs. it has been eye opening for sure. we have scope to expand the pond further in the future, and we're actively planning on catching rainfall from our 3 main greenhouses. its not a laughing matter. the owners of the land we lease next door have agreed to dredge their secondary holding pond for the first time in 45 years. so thats this fall project. right now the rain is pouring outside, bring it on.
I'm in northwest Arkansas, and we collect and funnel all the rainwater coming off our buildings, as well as directing runoff. It's a huge amount, and allows us to be water independent.
Bonjour Maude Hélène et Jean Martin,
Comme tu l'as fais remarquer l'utilisation de l'eau est un enjeu crucial en agriculture.
Face au changement climatique, il faut s'attendre à l'augmentation en fréquence et en intensité d'événements climatiques extrêmes.
Au sujet de l'eau, cela peux se traduire par de la sécheresse mais aussi des inondations.
Sur notre ferme nous avons eu 3 ans de sécheresse, suivit par une année d'inondations.
Afin de pouvoir nourrir notre communauté, nous allons devoir transformer notre ferme pour faire face à ses deux cas de figure.
Notre réflexion est la suivante.
1 Drainer le terrain pour évacuer tout surplus d'eau.
Les champs mais aussi les serres, les toits des bâtiments, bref toutes les surfaces horizontales.
2 Collecter toute cette eau (si possible par gravité ça coûte moins cher) et en stocker le plus grand volume possible. Dans l'idéal avoir un stockage correspondant à notre consommation annuelle.
3 Irriguer que quand c'est strictement nécessaire. Pour cela nous utilisons une tarière spéciale pour évaluer le stress hydrique du sol.
4 Avoir des outils adaptés, donc goute à goute quand c'est possible (toujours avec des bâche hors sol pour ne pas avoir à binner sur les goute à goute) sinon micro aspersion.
5 Limiter les pertes, cela comprend localiser (utilisant un compteur d'eau) et réparer les fuites. Mais également en privilégiant l'arrosage de nuit où sous bâche hors sol pour limiter l'évapo-transpiration.
C'est un travail de longue haleine mais nécessaire, nous avançons par étape en suivant ses principes, en espérant y arriver dans quelques années.
Bonne continuation à vous, et bon courage pour la suite.
Blessings to all!
I like seeing you post more 😀
perhaps you might want to think of collecting water of all the greenhouses as well. I am in Norway and we used to have gutters on the greenhouses to move water away. this is however no longer needed which is scary to think about. the greenhouses seem to have quite a lot of surface at your farm.Also i heard you talk about a swampy area, and although the swamps are of ecological importance you might be able to tapp water there, at least until a desired level. I hope you soon get some rain and thanks for the content!
Collecting water off the greenhouses, that's an interesting idea to explore! Thanks for the idea =)
Old tales of past scratching ground around plants 1 week before new moon 1 week after new moon to help capillary action when water is rising into below ground roots and then 1 week after new moon when energy is below and above co.bined and only watering plants around full moon when that water goes to plant above ground Sounds silly but definitely reduces the need for water and produces hard plants
Incroyable comme je suis choyer d'avoir la rivière aux Brochets chez moi, je vous souhaites le meilleur.
Greetings from Israel, I just saw a few of your older videos before getting to that one and I must say it is scary to see how dramatic is the change of the availability of water to your farm, here in Israel we have a shortage of water all most all year around and for us the only real solution is a good dripping pipe’s system combined with different mulching and shading methods that really cut the amount of “wasted” water. It makes me want to cry to think that this kind of equipment will soon be a must, even in places like Canada . Any way thanks allot for all the informative videos and keep up with the great work your doing over there.
Fresh tree company wood chips in a deep mulch 18in plus then I let it break down over winter then pull it back and plant in it retained great moisture may need to give it some manure or green manure needs nitrogen but it did great!
I'll be setting up a ibc on a stand to my gutters for more water banking next year
Also I've been building huglekulter mounds which are awesome
This guy knows how move lots of water using air pumps, could be useful and is a great excuse to go to Hawaii lol. Olomana Gardens Aquaponics
You can always collect all the water that falls on your many greenhouses as well.
Crazy weather. We got our 1st rain in 3 months last week in Victoria BC . Great video :)
Well done Rose! I would’ve done the same.
Just thought I would mention that crops grown in ventilated tunnels will use a fraction of the amount needed for the same crop grown outside the tunnel. Back 20 years ago Penn State Extension did an experiment... they had a container of water inside a tunnel and one on the outside of the tunnel. Evaporation outside of the tunnel was greater than twice what it was in the tunnel. This is because relative humidity in the tunnel will be higher than outside and thus transpiration rate inside will be reduced.
very interesting, we certainly are big fans of tunnels, such an important tool for the market gardener for MANY reasons!
I'm late to this video, but one way I've found to cut back on water usage in general is by incorporating activated biochar - a 5% amendment results in a 24% increase in water holding capacity. Making activated biochar is really easy. One of the best videos on a simple method can be found on the YT channel called The Weedy Garden - it's the method I use. The other part about biochar use is the soil's microbiome uses the carbon as an energy source - good way to keep your soil's microbes the happy campers and, by extension, your plants as well! My last batch of composting had about 20% biochar [I'm experimenting]. Even at your scale of established grow beds, beyond initial labor, I see no reason why you couldn't incorporate activated biochar use. I live in the Mid-Atlantic Region here in the States and it's been a 'feast or famine' scenario with rain fall - nothing consistent as was like even five years ago. With the current rate of global ice melt...well...it ain't gonna get better. Anyone who thinks global warming is a hoax is barking mad and bat shit crazy...just saying. Enjoying your videos! Cheers...
Very interesting Ross, thanks for the info! 🙂 This is something we'll have to look into
@@TheMarketGardeners Me thinks and fears 'water famine' is here to stay for reasons we both understand. Water management via 'catchment(s)' is one approach; although, there are States here in the US that outlaws rain water harvesting of any sort - go figure. I think a more fundamental approach lies within soil; thus, my activated biochar use [and ratio experimentation]. Another approach to managing plant hydration I'm using is biologically active foliar feeding - it's easy to make and you can control the NPK content. The results are faster growth, healthier plants and better blossom set(s). Example: My cherry tomatoes had 45-50 blossoms per cluster with 25-30 clusters per plant and no blossom drop - super productive [at least for me that is]. Based on my results, I'm sold on using the plant's stomata's as an additional management tool for both hydration and feeding [microbes for the plant's immune system and minerals for plant food]. Just some thoughts. Cheers...
Ice melt leads to ocean cooling, it's old geological knowledge, one has to be mad to think otherwise, in fact higher temps leads to more oceanic evaporation which leads to more rain. It's ALL in the geological record! :)
JM, have you ever considered the grass fed methods used by Jim Kovaleski in Maine? His area of Mains is under severe drought and he is continuing to produce abundance.
hmm I will look into it! thanks for the reference James =)
There was a recent article in the MOFGA newsletter (I’m sure you can find it) describing how to store ground water. Basically a large pit20x20x20, collection pipes in bottom, then big layer of 1-2” stone where the water is stored, cover with silt fabric then cover with soil. No evaporation. This size is more for a home and garden but could be scaled up. Also avoids cost of drilling a well that accesses water in an aquifer from maybe centuries ago that is being removed faster than it recharges, like in California. You current strategies are impressive!
very interesting! I'll have to look this up. Thanks for the idea Jan 🙂
Hi JM great vids may I suggest you use your permaculture design expertise to design swales, underground pipes to direct water where you require? Talk with Geoff Lawton in Australia
I think adding some cover for aquatic life would be beneficial. Now's the only easy time since the pond isn't full yet.
You should install a dura-skrim liner in the pond.
id dig a swale where you channel your flood water too then put a french drain in it that leads to the pond
I'm just seeing this video now but you could have put out if anybody wanted to start and came that day so when they were digging they could have just put it in a truck. Food for thought next time it's all good I'm enjoying yourListening to the French because I'm from northern Maine and it always sounds funnier in French when you say things then it does in English and I love it
baissières/drains qui rejoignent l'étang, je trouverais un moyen de récupérer l'eau des tunnels également ainsi que toute l'eau des toits des bâtiments, enfin peut être créer une réserve enterré si vraiment les conditions sont extrêmes pour limiter l'évaporation de l'eau des bassins, j'espère que sa n'ira pas jusque là pour vous !
It may also help to cover the pond in floating plants like lilies or duckweed to reduce evaporation. Not sure how much you’re losing to evaporation but further south it’s something we have to think about.
Seems like the big change was...you are intense farmming using more and more bigger greenhouse. So its normal you use more water (althou your produtivity is possibly even more then the grow in the use of water.).
No need to feed guilt or worried. The ponds looks great.
We live in the Missouri Ozarks off grid... We have a pond, rain catch and a drilled well with a bison pump.. still we conserve water.. Planted 120 lns of potato seed and never watered.. got around 500 lbs at harvest... The key for us is a deep layer of wood chips... Holds in the moisture.. be hard to add into your model I'm sure but something to consider... Praying you get rain soon..
Ways to hold more moisture in the beds is certainly something to think about! thanks for the comment =)
JM catch water - no barrels on down pipes - the maths are there - 1inch of rain on a thousand square feet of roof gives you 500 gallons ( USA short measure)- Dew ponds are useful also on some areas.
Using arid adapted crops that people are willing to eat is one thing I’m struggling with here in Flagstaff, AZ. Berms and swales are best way to capture run off here but hard to adapt to a market garden system…I still thing the three sisters is one of the best cropping systems for long term sustainability but hard to have high turn over with those…things I’m constantly thinking about…I feel ya!
J'étais il y a encore peu de temps fan des mares mais la situation actuelle de déficit de pluie (aussi le décalage des tombées) et les discutions avec les diverses acteurs de l'écologie et de la préservation de l'eau m'ont convaincu que ce n'est malheureusement pas une solution durable. Même s'il faut préserver les points d'eaux naturels cela devient une aberration de stocker l'eau à l'air libre, les pertes en évaporation sont beaucoup trop importantes, à tel point que dans ma région, Indre, France, des subventions ont été lancées pour combler des étangs/mares artificielles (nous en sommes à la 7ème année de déficit hydrométrique). Je pense que les arbres principalement et le couvert végétal sont de bien meilleurs "stockeurs" d'eau grâce à leur système racinaire qui infiltrent les pluies en profondeur et alimentent les nappes.
Cela dit, votre démarche reste tout à fait louable et je vous souhaite une très bonne continuation.
Merci.
Just an idea. Have you ever thought of using drainage tiles in the field blocks, the directing them to the ponds. It is filtered by the soil. If you have clay, you may need a sock. RUclips AgPHD for more information.
It’s only when you run out of something that you start thinking and planning better for it.
Hi JM
Wells are geting dry all around us here in Poland. In my opinion there is only one way to deal with this problems, whole farm design using permaculture, Keyline etc.
That May be really tricky, a specyally on such established farms as yours. Take care
Here in S. Illinois the weather has been great. In the summer it doesn't rain for weeks but there is always plenty of water. Farmers pump it from the rivers. There is an old well at my house that was drilled in the 70s but produces sulfur water so was not used. Not sure if I could ever use that for watering the gardens and don't know if it would be worth the cost of getting it going again. Surprised to hear you are having a drought there. Before there was city water everyone here had cisterns and wells.
Yes not far south of us many states are having very wet years as well. We have to be prepared for both extremes these days.
I think we all need to step up with our emergency methods. We’ve had the opposite in the U.K. rain rain rain. all the balances are out of wack!
Not everywhere in the UK, we’ve been bone dry for months in the north west, Lake District reservoirs at 40%, rather than their usual 70%. Urgent drought warnings coming from water company
Hi! Q to anyone who might know, curious, would you line a pond like this with any type of material to stop water seeping out into the surrounding land?
your beds are already formed! start deep mulching combined with drip tapes you will use 70% less water.
One thing that I’ve observed on the farm I work on is that the fields below the slope of our native prairie stay saturated for significantly longer. My hypothesis is that the (80ish %) increased subsoil biomass has a sort of a reverse wicking effect where the native prairie slows the water, the soil penetration for water is increased and so it slowly releases access water to the fields below. Perhaps planting slopes with deeply rooted native prairie and adding a swale near the terminus of the slope and then channeling it into a catchment would work and have an increased or compound effect? Also, I know it’s pretty much blaspheme to suggest but I’ve been curious about the water diverting potential of creating intentional, controlled hardpan to create runoff lanes.
That really does hurt to take big trees down like that. I had to do it and it sucked but....
💕 I was wondering whether you can mobilise you customers in some way with regards to waste water, someone will have an idea to help you close the gap.
Redirecting water ruclips.net/video/VzyJsFRf380/видео.html its different in scale and purpose but there might be something in this for you 💕
ruclips.net/video/415an1V0FxQ/видео.html @ 7.18, interesting feature of farming dry land in India.
Happy wife is a happy life.
Do you process/treat your water collected for irrigation?
There's virtually no surface water in our area that isn't contaminated with the likes of e-coli and other bad guys.
Hola, ¿el taller tiene subtitulo en español?
I'm not sure if you have the possibility of bore water that is what helps us out when it gets really dry, we had to go down 100m to get it.
In the end it will be a positive if you make the pond wildlife friendly !
Ça a l'air un sacré sacrifice de couper ces arbres. On espere que l'étang va compenser cette perte en attirant plus de faune. Pour les techniques, une façon écologique de récupérer de l'eau est les eaux de ruissellement selon les pentes de votre terrain. (Voir les baissières de Dominique ruclips.net/video/dXevmgWuS2Q/видео.html)
tube all your gutters to the big pond.
How many cubic meters now?
Not 100% sure at the moment of the exact size
Are well has been running dry and from the previous owner over 30 years it had never ran dry. I wonder if the bioengineering or chem trails spraying the aluminum , barium and other metals is putting a barrier in the ground that’s hindering our aquifers.
Your neighbors well at 200 Ridge Street is 61 meters depth, Your neighbor to the north at Domaine du Ridge well depth is 22.9 meters and slightly further east at 1599 Chem. des Sapins is 38.7 meters depth, from Quebec public records. Based on these numbers you have a very shallow well. it is not uncommon in California for wells to be 200+ meters deep. You have billions of gallons in a lake 5 miles east at 100ft MSL beneath your farm 300ft MSL. You should drill another well before you go throwing money away hauling water
👍🇺🇦
Just plant more trees ;)! Problems not cutting down trees its not planting them.
Dig a deeper well.
Those sides look pretty steep. You think a lot of animals will fall in and drown.
They aren't as steep as they look so it's safe! =)
dig swales
quel désastre de domper du sol minéral dans le marais, grosse erreur...
Gets some pigs to seal your pond.