Links to the parts and tools in this video: Maximum Motorsports XL Subframe Connectors: ebay.us/74giXc Stiffler's Web Braces: ebay.us/rXVO4I Jacking Rail: ebay.us/84uYem Stiffler's FIT System (Shorter subframe connectors than MM): ebay.us/Fu31rW Tall jack stands: amzn.to/3Mhxxl7 My Welder: amzn.to/3wsN1w0 My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Going back a few years…when I had my ‘02 GT I used just the MM full length subframe connectors which definitely make a difference. Bought the car with 7k on it and sold it to my brother-in-law with over a 100k. The doors never sagged as is common on these cars. Also had MM Panhard bar and lower control arms all great products. I noticed the coil springs and aluminum driveshaft on your car. Always wise to get the car set and solid before adding power. The undercarriage is incredible. Excellent work!
I'm changing a lot of things around on this car. The suspension is getting completely redone from what you saw here. I'm throwing the MM catalog at this car lol.
@@RepairGeek I saw the sneak peak and you are throwing the MM catalog at this car😂 going to be a corner carver!! I have seen a ton of SN95 Mustangs in my years at car shows/magazines and your car stands out as one of the cleanest with all modifications having a performance improving purpose! Refreshing to see these days. Great work 👍👍
I've owned this car for 15 years now. I still want it to be the car I drove in high school visually. It's going to be just a fun street car that I want to make somewhat comfortable. After 3 hours of riding in this thing I want to be willing to get back in it. The drop springs on this car made it miserable after about 2.5 hours.
Was the pan hard bar worth the work/money? I’m doing a street car focused on handling. It’s has a 331. It has the heavy duty MM lowers. Was planing on maybe a their Panhard in the winter.
Appreciate all the hard work you've done. Food for thought: the premier Mustang tuners (Maximum Motorsports, Griggs Racing) don't offer a kit that connects the subframe to the pinch seam. The reason is because more metal in the horizontal plane is not as necessary as is more structure in the vertical (through-the-floor connectors).
I'm thinking about going with team z motorsports through the floor subframe connectors but not sure if I want to deal with the lumpy carpeting...I might go the same route you did with the MM full lengths and the stifflers web brace and jacking rails...it's still up in the air because I just found a notch after all these years of looking for a solid candidate that hasn't been converted to full drag form or rotted to death but your videos are super super helpful and I enjoy them and I'm getting ready to do my undercarriage restoration on it...I do want to go rotisserie because it will be much easier as you also mentioned in one of your videos...glad I found your channel! Nick from Michigan.
You took a chance welding those in while the car was on a lift instead of sitting on its tires... would've been a disaster if your door gaps got wonky. Happened to a buddy, luck was on your side.
Great video I'm going to be doining the same thing would you think it's a good idea to drill 3/8 hole down the pinch rail to tackle the jacking rails in?
The matrix brace and the jacking rails are made by Stifflers. Maximum Motorsport made the connectors. It took a little cutting to get the two to work together.
Great video with lots of good information! BUT, it is a bad idea to spray your welds down with water. Not only are you creating a potential shock hazard, any excess water in the area you're welding will cause porosity, the rapid cooling can cause the welds to become brittle, and the arc dissociates hydrogen from the water causing hydrogen cracking.
Each manufacturer is going to say that they are the "best". MM was the first company that I'm aware of that made subframe connectors for these cars back in the early 90s. Detroit speed has been making parts for these cars for what 2-3 years? Theirs also requires cutting out sections of the floor. MM has been doing it for over 30 and they are focused just on this car. If you want to know who makes the best most durable parts look at who has won the most races.
Not for nothing but, don't spray water on a hot weld to cool it use compressed air. You won't risk cracking anything and it will cool it just as fast if not faster.
Links to the parts and tools in this video:
Maximum Motorsports XL Subframe Connectors: ebay.us/74giXc
Stiffler's Web Braces: ebay.us/rXVO4I
Jacking Rail: ebay.us/84uYem
Stiffler's FIT System (Shorter subframe connectors than MM): ebay.us/Fu31rW
Tall jack stands: amzn.to/3Mhxxl7
My Welder: amzn.to/3wsN1w0
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Most underrated Ford guy on YT. Love his Escape vids!
In my 01 GT convertible Just installing the mm frame, connectors and strut tower brace made it a night and day difference.
Hey brother if you see this what kind of handling difference do you notice?
Your videos are very informative. I am learning new stuffs from you.
Going back a few years…when I had my ‘02 GT I used just the MM full length subframe connectors which definitely make a difference.
Bought the car with 7k on it and sold it to my brother-in-law with over a 100k. The doors never sagged as is common on these cars.
Also had MM Panhard bar and lower control arms all great products. I noticed the coil springs and aluminum driveshaft on your car.
Always wise to get the car set and solid before adding power. The undercarriage is incredible. Excellent work!
I'm changing a lot of things around on this car. The suspension is getting completely redone from what you saw here. I'm throwing the MM catalog at this car lol.
@@RepairGeek I saw the sneak peak and you are throwing the MM catalog at this car😂 going to be a corner carver!!
I have seen a ton of SN95 Mustangs in my years at car shows/magazines and your car stands out as one of the cleanest with all modifications having a performance improving purpose! Refreshing to see these days. Great work 👍👍
I've owned this car for 15 years now. I still want it to be the car I drove in high school visually. It's going to be just a fun street car that I want to make somewhat comfortable. After 3 hours of riding in this thing I want to be willing to get back in it. The drop springs on this car made it miserable after about 2.5 hours.
Was the pan hard bar worth the work/money? I’m doing a street car focused on handling. It’s has a 331.
It has the heavy duty MM lowers. Was planing on maybe a their Panhard in the winter.
Appreciate all the hard work you've done. Food for thought: the premier Mustang tuners (Maximum Motorsports, Griggs Racing) don't offer a kit that connects the subframe to the pinch seam. The reason is because more metal in the horizontal plane is not as necessary as is more structure in the vertical (through-the-floor connectors).
Absolutely a great video and very detail.
I hope my installation goes well.. this has really helped me..
Thanks for making the video.👍
Been enjoying this underbody series. I'd probably never go this far with my cars but it's a delight to see you working on your project car.
You should man. Safety first. You can repair the vehicle but not the driver to full capacity.
Excellent job! I like the raptor liner!
I love this stuff man it’s going to be a solid unit
You had me at "mutilated pinch welds". My 98 Taurus SHO is starting to look rough from the many times I've put it in the air. Thank you for the info.
Massive Respect Bro, real potent info yet very detailed 💯🤜🤛💯
Thank you, this was very helpful!
I'm thinking about going with team z motorsports through the floor subframe connectors but not sure if I want to deal with the lumpy carpeting...I might go the same route you did with the MM full lengths and the stifflers web brace and jacking rails...it's still up in the air because I just found a notch after all these years of looking for a solid candidate that hasn't been converted to full drag form or rotted to death but your videos are super super helpful and I enjoy them and I'm getting ready to do my undercarriage restoration on it...I do want to go rotisserie because it will be much easier as you also mentioned in one of your videos...glad I found your channel! Nick from Michigan.
You took a chance welding those in while the car was on a lift instead of sitting on its tires... would've been a disaster if your door gaps got wonky. Happened to a buddy, luck was on your side.
I laid a ton of tacks while it was supported by the suspension. Finished welded in the air.
Great install, I'm sure it'll make a pretty big difference.
Aren’t there tabs of tape to remove for welding?
More mustang content. Your doing all the stuff. Make us a video
Great video I'm going to be doining the same thing would you think it's a good idea to drill 3/8 hole down the pinch rail to tackle the jacking rails in?
How much weight do these subframe-jacking rails add?
I was considering installing jacking rails but it looks like only the subframe connectors are available.
The matrix brace and the jacking rails are made by Stifflers. Maximum Motorsport made the connectors. It took a little cutting to get the two to work together.
which is the american version ? is the first take and then in sequence or alternatively with the European ?
What did you undercoat the bottom of your car with?
What did you use to paint the underside of the car, looks fantastic!!!
Really impressed with your thoroughness, I miss my mustang. What type of welder do you have.
Esab 205 AC/DC I have videos on it back in 2020 when I got it. It's been an awesome machine.
If you research this it says to have weight on the tires
Per the instructions:
The car’s weight must be on the tires or supported with jack stands positioned on the rear axle housing and k-member
Great video with lots of good information! BUT, it is a bad idea to spray your welds down with water. Not only are you creating a potential shock hazard, any excess water in the area you're welding will cause porosity, the rapid cooling can cause the welds to become brittle, and the arc dissociates hydrogen from the water causing hydrogen cracking.
Well, it seemed like a better option than catching my car on fire.
Anyone know which is the best mm, Detroit speed or team z looking to see what people recommend for a foxbody convertible
Each manufacturer is going to say that they are the "best". MM was the first company that I'm aware of that made subframe connectors for these cars back in the early 90s. Detroit speed has been making parts for these cars for what 2-3 years? Theirs also requires cutting out sections of the floor. MM has been doing it for over 30 and they are focused just on this car. If you want to know who makes the best most durable parts look at who has won the most races.
@@RepairGeek thank you 👍🏻
What kind of undercoat is that?
ruclips.net/video/GU4tmMyqkcM/видео.html
So was the web bracing worth it? I’m considering the same on a fox.
If you have a 2 post absolutely. Otherwise it's your call. I can't see the difference being drastic from the driver's seat.
Not for nothing but, don't spray water on a hot weld to cool it use compressed air.
You won't risk cracking anything and it will cool it just as fast if not faster.
Night and day difference
1:25 in that case I'd rather just put the Foxbody on a Roadster Shop chassis.
😂 Oh yeah just casually spend 20K before options on a chassis that will get passed by any 6K Maximum Motorsports or Griggs car on track.
@@RepairGeek what leads you to say that maximum motorsports kit would outperform a roadster shop spec series setup?
Nice job. Keep that fuel line away from that drive shaft. Not good.
That's a factory fuel line, routing, and hardware holding it on. I checked full droop to full compression. No issues.
I'd recommend anyone this paranoid of ruining interiors while welding look into cool gel spray.
Not worth the time and effort in my case.