10/31/2021 - Sunday morning cup of coffee brewed, sitting out on patio, cue up new Wilkerdo video … Wait! What? No new April video today? That’s it, my week is scr#wed 😢 😆
@Linda L ... In the case of a retrofit there are different rules. The one I know for sure is you don't need to secure the wire except at the boxes. The nail plates were a nice touch for safety.
@@rogergy1 ... I do believe that's national code by now, with the possible exception of a ceiling outlet for a door opener. (depending on the ease of access is the way it's worded) How to do that is covered elsewhere, but circuits in any damp / wet location (garage / basement) must be GFCI protected.
As a retired electrician, we would use a strong magnet to locate the screws on the drywall to be removed, even nails, this way the drywall will come off in one piece. Just a small bit of help. Thanks for all you share n nice job. You're hired.
I used magnets like you say, as a kid, then bought lots of fancy stud finders. I’ve been coming back to magnets as I get older. They just work. Funny how that works.
@@markme4 The building code allows load bearing studs to be notched up to 25% of their width, so if this is a 3-1/2" stud it can have up to a 7/8" notch taken out.
I teach home repair and maintenance at the university in Ashland, Oregon. I use many RUclipss. I just came upon you today and am highly impressed. You are now on my "go to list" for teaching. BTW, I am 73 years old and continue to learn. The best student is a teacher. Thank you
My 12 yr old daughter loves your channel, and I love that she loves your channel! I love for her to see that girls can do all the things guys can do and that these things are not just a “guy” thing. That way when I’m dead and gone, I’ll rest easy knowing she can handle whatever comes her way and won’t rely on anyone else.
Awesome! Give her a High 5 for me! I didn't start out knowing all that I do now. I started with small projects and as my confidence and skill level grew, I could do more advance projects. Please tell her to work hard, never give up and you can do what you set your mind to. Thanks for watching.
@@AprilWilkerson she saw your comment and came out of her room flying, I thought the house was on fire 🔥! Lol. She said she won’t stop trying and thanks! High five back!
When using the multitool, I like to cut a score line first along the pencil line, then angle the cutter 45° to cut through the rest of the drywall. The score line makes it easier for the cut-through. And sometimes I save the cut out piece to use for a drywall patch somewhere else. Nice job.
My 4 year old daughter: "Is that a girl?" Thanks for giving me an early opportunity to explain to my daughter how capable she is to do anything. I didn't realize she was already forming thoughts that this sort of thing may be "guy work". Subscribed.
As a woman millwright / sanitary process welder my grandchildren too thought it odd that I did " mans work " . My husband also a millwright / welder explained to them that the work involved THINKING and knowledge and not brute strength. That the work was most enjoyable usually and paid well. We are now mostly retired now and watch our grandchildren find their way in the world. Hope we gave them options for employment and job satisfaction.
Obviously most women don't like to touch electrical wires, get on hands and knees. Saw dust. Dirt and grime. These are just the facts. Its men type of work. She just enjoys doing it. Very profitable and she enjoys it.
I love your independence. I wished I had the outlet when I was growing up that you do now. I always was in the shop with my dad. I wished I would have told him that I wanted to continue doing it, but life was different back then. I became a secretary and puttered around in the shop when I could have made a career out of it.
Just the fact that you showed me how to use a putty knife along with the pet bar, was worth watching! I’m taking my shoe molding off my baseboards, and this helps. I’m always learning at age 67! I love building!
Great, I see the putty knife trick literally one hour after I finished patching my wall from some crown moulding removal...Thanks April It'll com in handy later I'm sure.
Sweet! I was wondering how to add extra outlets to my daughter's room so she doesn't have extension cords run out to her reading lamps. This is the perfect solution!
Nice. I did the same thing last month except I did a wire chase a few inches higher than the existing outlet because I was doing built in cabinets with backs. The wire chase was just wide enough for the nail plates to be installed easily. Because the cabinets would have backs on them, I didn't need to reinstall the drywall and the backs would hide it all. Then I just ran the Romex to the height I wanted the boxes to be, just like you did. I'm impressed by how you did this and I have been a licensed GC for over 20 years. My hat is off to you.
Yeah, but, you now have a huge hole in the drywall which allows drafts to come up inside the wall cavity possibly affecting comfort and/or heating/cooling efficiency and reducing the fire retardant effect of drywall.
@@audiocarp Hi Howie. Depending on where this is done, I would very much agree with you. I would never do it on the firewall between a garage and the interior of the house for fire safety reasons. Drywall is not required on ANY walls of a house except for the firewall (whether it is between units in a multi-family building or between a garage and house) (even then, there are other ways to make a firewall). All other walls can have almost any finish material you want - think thin interior paneling. This is for the same reason that interior doors don't need to be fire rated, but the door from the garage to the interior of the house does. The chase/slot I cut in the drywall (and covered with plywood cabinet backs) would be less of a fire concern than the 1" gap at the bottom of every door in the house (much less if the individual door(s) weren't closed). I also wouldn't do the "open" (even though it is encapsulated with plywood) chase/slot on an exterior wall of the house in the living areas, mainly for insect reasons. Your comfort reason would only be an issue in a newer "tight" (as in tightly built - air intrusion wise) home. In that case, you are spot on for that reason. But older homes are incredibly bad at air intrusion already and, as mentioned, everything was covered by plywood. To be fair to you, I should have mentioned (in my original post) where I did this on my house - on the exterior wall of my garage. No finish requirements, no fire requirements and no heating/cooling.
As a former electrician, it actually was an overall good job! My preference would have been to drill the studs, but you took good safety precautions to protect the wire.👏
You can accomplish the same effect using a long flexible drill bit that allows you do drill through studs from the box holes. You can't always avoid drywall work but you can reduce it significantly. If the wall is insulated it can be a little harder to do.
Not if you have wallpaper... Thank you, April. I need an outlet for a bidet and hers is the perfect solution for my walk-in closet right beside the bathroom
7:00 Pro tip: Inserting both the feed and load Romex thru the *same* side (e.g. bottom) of your box makes snugging the box back into the wall a bit easier.
Any considerations for doing this in finished walls with insulation? I'm guessings since the standard outlet height is 16in. or so that's not too much insulation to wrestle with?
Terrific video presentation with a lot of good suggestions. One suggestion, since you are mounting sockets on a wall with metal tools hanging above, flip your sockets with the ground stud facing up. This is an industrial standard that I learned about 30 years ago. If a plug isn’t completely inserted and something metal slides down, you want it to hit the ground and not a hot line. Just my 2¢. Stay safe out there. Wishing you and your family a blessed week. Peace April.
@@--Nath-- …UL standard is that the earth/ground pins be the longest ones, so that they are the first to make (contact), and last to break (contact). And this is standard engineering practice in ANY electrical or electronic work, actually.
@@--Nath-- As the ground pin is usually the tighter pin in the socket, it is far more likely that the hot and neutral pins will dislodge when they are on top, than the ground will when it is on top. I understand the perspective you're trying to argue in your point; but, it isn't really valid compared to the advantages of ground pin up.
@@--Nath-- There is no upside down to US style outlets. Code allows either orientation and most GFCIs have labeling that can be read in either orientation. The longer ground prong accommodates an uneven withdrawal of the plug. You are worrying about a problem that doesn’t exist.
We have 1918 home and very few outlets. We have been struggling to figure out how to get more without tearing out the plastic and lathe or running those ugly wall channels...this is perfect!!! Great idea and save my bacon...our baseboards are 5" and will cover easy!!!!
Good job April, glad you put those plates in so you couldn’t accidentally nail the wires. Stay safe and keep up the good work and videos, and have fun along the way. Fred.🙏🏻🙏🏻👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻✋🏻✋🏻
HA!! And you THINK you now have enough receptacles???? Receptacles in a shop are like clamps: you can never have too many!! THANK you for using the steel nailing plates. I knew a guy who wired a ceiling fan from a wall receptacle by running lamp cord in the groove in the paneling, and then wallpapering over it. I also heard later that he was electrocuted at his next house. Love your channel.
Thanks for sharing April. I’ve been wanting to add some outlets in my kitchen and my shop but haven’t really known the best way to go about it without cutting into the wall and having to do a bunch of work on the sheet rock. I’ve done plenty of electrical work in the past so I do know how to do all the wiring for that kind of stuff but you definitely made that whole process of getting the wiring in a lot simpler.
Like you said, done wrong but done. People asking what is wrong - you run wires through the middle of a stud, you don't damage the outside of the stud. Also, there is no thought to how many outlets are on the circuit and the potential load. If you run the appliances on those 8 extra plates you could very well overload the circuit and cause the wire to overheat. It's not likely to run it all at once, but that should be factored in when running circuits. But this is how many of us would get a job done, and I sure am not saying I wouldn't cheat and do something similar in a pinch.
@@michaelmiller1109 NEC 300.4: "...cables or raceways shall be permitted to be laid in notches in wood studs, joists, rafters, or other wood members where the cable or raceway at those points is protected against nails or screws by a steel plate..."
cable and internet are not as good an application if you need to use both drops. Ethernet doesn’t split well like this, if you are extending then maybe a coupler would be ok, but don’t try to splice one in
trick is you should be grafting, not splitting. my cousin grows apple trees and he showed me you can graft ethernet cables onto each other but you gotta remember to water them and not over-fertilize or else you wont get a gigabit link
@@mdjrboyvb I was referring to how the cables can be hidden when running them in a finished space. Obviously cat5 ethernet will need to be connected through a switch and cable will need a splitter or powered amp.
Nice video again! I wish it was this simple to hide wires down here in Holland, where almost every house has brick walls with plaster + paint or wallpaper...
Hi April I like your video they are very informed. I have one question I’m running a 10 gauge extension cord from outside plug that has a 30 amp breaker on to my shop but what I want to do is run power to it do I have to Barry the wire or can I condit to my shot it like three feet apart from my main garage where the circuit breaker is
If my name isn't Dave or David can I still post here?? A clean garage makes me sad. Ours was clean enough to park in for about 1 month after moving in. No cars have made it that far for nigh on 15 years now. No reason to think they ever will again.
@@slowguy56 We've hit the Dave/David quota so you're free to post. lol Same thing with my garage. I think it was used for cars maybe the first three days after we moved in. That's prime workshop space!
That is one way to do it but in my case I ran a new 12 gauge wire from the load center to the garage and then at each 2x3.5 I cut a 2x1 inch hole on either side and drilled a hole through the 2x3.5 for the wire to run through. Added a GFCI outlet on the first of five outlets along the wall and the sixth exited the garage as an external weather proof addition. Patching is simple with a 30 minute patching compound and then a light coat of light drywall compound, sand prime and paint. Less wire involved is a bonus.
What do you recommend if you don't have a baseboard in your garage? Also, by cutting the 2×4, doesn't that ruin the integrity/strength of it and put your wall at risk of sagging?
Funny thing about building code is they will tell you what size floor or roof beams need to be, but on walls there's no spec... unless it's the thickness of the insulation. I was told that by a contractor years ago.
@@tjohnson4062 .... all I can tell you is many things are up to the local inspector and retrofits seem to have many exceptions. Personally, I would drill each stud and probably have put plywood on the wall to prevent punch-through of stored items under the bench. Drywall isn't that sturdy.
@@rupe53 Your contractor lied to you. All lumber is stamped in the US and Canada, and wall load requirements (as "Wall Assemblies") are clearly described in the International Residential Building Code and the Uniform Building Code.
@@josephdestaubin7426 .... the code also tells you how much you can cut / notch a given timber and where you can do that. Granted, doing that near the end is not recommended and wouldn't be my first choice. OTOH, when these old guys got their info it was likely 40 years ago before it was spelled out clearly in the code. As far as weight loading, I'm not too concerned. Most of the code these days is aimed at wall thickness for insulation values.
This is a great reason to use a stud finder with a built in voltage meter that tells you when you're close to hot wires. The vertical wires will be loose and prone to new nails or screws hitting them. This obviously wont be an issue in this case because April can clearly see where the wires are, but if you are in a house with retrofits or remodels where someone might not have done it as cleanly as April did, it's important to know where cords are. Great video. Short and to the point, while still being very informative!!
The loose wires are plenty safe. There is nothing to pinch them. If you were running a screw into the drywall in the middle of a cavity (why would you?) the wire would simply get pushed out of the way. There is nothing to keep the wire fixed in place allowing the screw to puncture the wire. There is 100% nothing wrong with this install.
This video was so helpful. I watched another video where the guy drilled wholes in the studs but he had higher molding. After watching your video, I think I can do the job with my shorter molding by notching the studs at the bottom and then protecting them like you did.
She is more competent than most of the helpers I've had. They couldn't have figured out how to do that if they just watch ur video. Lol. No code issues and good workmanship. 👍
This is a good trick for someone with wooden studs... I live in Hawaii and have a supposedly hurricane proof house with metal studs. I have to figure out where the openings on the metal studs are so I think drywall repair is necessary.
What gauge Romex did you use, 14-2 or 12-2, I saw the yellow Romex and it always makes me think of the 12-2 Romex? These were 110 receptacles, so 14-2 Romex should have been used ? Could you use 12-2 Romex or is the code you need to use the 14-2 Romex for all 15 amp receptacles?
HI April, Great video! The only thing I'd like to know is how you connected the new Romex wire to the existing electrical box. Im very green when it comes to wiring so not sure how that works.
Any considerations for doing this in finished walls with insulation? I'm guessings since the standard outlet height is 16in. or so that's not too much insulation to wrestle with?
I installed a 12 inch ceramic tile along the base in my garage and it would have been perfect for this project. I finished my walls at the same time so I just ran the wire normally, but I thought it would be another way to accomplish the same thing. I also like the way it protects the walls when washing the floors.
Just out of curiosity, what IF the load is too high for the circuit? Is a higher Amp circuit the answer? And, is that job a DIY, or does it require an electrician ( which are hard to find and get a response)?
Is there any issue if I skip putting back the bottom drywall at all? The wires won't be exposed and bottom drywall is not visible at all anyway right? What are your thoughts?
I plan on hiring an electrician to do just this exact job. Thanks to this video and the comments from other viewers, I feel much better equipped to evaluate which professional I will hire. Thank you all.
Did you up your amperage or did the wire guage restrict your doing so? I had to install outlets, switches and lights after the sheetrock was done. I went with exposed conduit.
As long as the breaker for the circuit matches the smallest wire size in the circuit, it will be fine. #14:15A, #12:20A. The best approach is to make sure the first receptacle is GFCI, as you suggest but use AF breakers.
Thanks for this video. I'm getting ready to add six(6) outlets in my garage and this gave me some new ways to accomplish my task. Keep the videos coming and God Bless!
I am making some changes to my garage and need to add outlets, I just need to fish the wire from the other side of the wall, I had no idea those boxes existed! Great video with good info!
April, I love your videos and you always talk safety but in this short maybe you should have mentioned that before you start make sure that you trip the breaker to the outlet and make sure it is dead.
A large putty knife as a pry bar support is a GREAT tip! Anytime a DIYer invades the world of professionals, it is sure to bring out well intended comments about what may have been done wrong like not mentioning the obvious, first turn off the power. :-)
It's to April's credit that she gave us credit for knowing that. But ask me about the time I cut into one of those old-fashioned cables carrying two hots from different unlinked breakers and a neutral. Every pair of diagonal cutters needs to have its little crescent shape on the blades, right?
Thank you so much for all your videos. I just bought a home here In Moreno Valley CA. And trust me. I will be seeing a lot of your Videos to help me improve my Home .Thank You Once again for all your help and hard work. 👍👍👍💯💯💯
You picked up a lot of great traits at an early age. 👍 I’m more preferable at pulling Romex from inside box out vice pulling In as tabs can be a pain- also allow you to just pull Romex without need for copper wire (Maybe, trick is to bend end a bit as when it hits plate it will won’t just stop at plate. (And I never cut off until the end In case there’s an “oops”. Middle receptacle, instead of cutting the wire and then running another wire up/down, make one pull by measuring height, allow extra 12-15” above, bend tightly and push up to the hole. Then continue to last box. (Here u just use ur lineman pliers to cut where you bent the wire and you save a step. Look at getting some extension rings (if desired). Will allow you to flush mount with the plywood (if field conditions permit) And with USB devices so common and need to charge phone or tablet, B/T speaker, change out a duplex with combo duplex and USB. This will give you USB ports and still free up your receptacles. I ❤️ hearing the comments where young girls are taking an interest in your skills and a desire to learn the trades. As a STEM mentor myself, I encourage kids to seek trades if they don’t want to follow the “Science, Technology, Engineering, Mathematics “ route. I was blessed to work with some great women in my Navy Days as a Seabee. Keep up the good work. Best of blessings in 2022
Good Job. Only comment would be no need for the push connectors. Just added an extra set of wires and another point of possible failure. If you pause it at the 7:33 mark you can see the extra wiring. Run the feed from the existing outlet to the bottom of the left receptacle. Run 2 wires from the top of the left one to the top of the right one. Then run the wires to the other outlet to the bottom of the right one. Will make the box less crowded and and eliminate the potential for future failure of the push connectors.
I love your content, but I don't recommend notching any structural framing member. Much better to go through the middle of the wood. Personally, I would have made the drywall the sacrificial piece in this build.
Notching is bad where you might have a bending moment in the member, but at the end of the stud you will only be looking at axial loads. It is unlikely the crushing stress of the sill plate was controlling. This notch at the base of the stud probably does not compromise the system.
@@--Nath-- Could you provide a reference to a NEC section that disallows notching structural members? UPD: I see that you're not in US, likely have different codes there. I heard that you guys aren't even allowed to work on your electrical stuff, is it true? Nail plate is actually required in such cases by US electrical code (NEC), it's kind of officially approved way to do it.
A few reasons. 1. Wood’s strength comes from its edges not the center, think about a how a truss works. This is my primary reason. 2. Code requires all plumbing and electrical to be 1 1/4” from the edge of the framing member this gives drywall and finish carpenters something to attach to without fear of hitting wire or plumbing. If for some reason that is not possible a piece of metal strong enough to stop a nail or screw must be placed over it to protect from piercing it. In this scenario they wanted no visibility to wires and no wall patching. Which isn’t possible to do and still meet code. So, if I am going to cheat code anyway; I am going to do it with something that is primarily asthetic, dado the drywall behind the baseboard.
Thanks so much for this very informative video. I don't know anything about electrical, but feel I could add some outlets now! Question...how many outlets can you run off of another? This may make no sense, but I have the concern of "overloading" like what happens when you plug too many things into a power strip. Do these boxes have a limit as to how many things can be plugged in at one time? Thanks again for any info on this :)
Many comments question the cutting of a thin, short section at the bottom of the stud, and whether that action damages the strength of the stud. Considering that bigger holes are cut into studs during construction in order to run romex, I’m going to assume that the considerably-smaller bit of material April is removing to run it does very little, if any damage to the integrity of each stud. I have seen this method in many how-to books over the years, so even though that doesn’t confirm the validity, it does show that it’s fairly common practice.
Nice job and thinking out the details. I can't feel completely comfortable cutting into those structural joists , seems it reduces ability to carry the load.
Ha, I recently did this method to install an outlet behind my tonal. Instead of notching out a space for the Romex I drilled a hole in the middle of the stud to run my wire through. It was a pain but it turned out well. I also had lots of insulation in the wall which I had to go through with the romex.
Nice video, April~! That's a great technique for executing that project. I probably would've drilled a pass-thru hole at the stud's bottom for the Romex, but the notching idea works too~! Thanks for sharing this~!
April - I'm not sure your "behind the baseboard" technique saved any time vs simply cutting a 6-8" wide slot the length of the run, a little below the box height. If you position your slot to fall between drywall fasteners, it's simple to R&R a patch like this. This would have allowed you to fasten the cable near the boxes (your only code miss), saved some cable, and probably have saved time.
Thanks for the video, April. When putting this many outlets in one breaker for a work station, do you recommend replacing the breaker from a 15 to 20 Amps?
Pardon me for jumping in. It would be against code to upsize a breaker unless the wire size is adequate and the outlets are properly rated. I think North American codes are pretty consistent from place to place. Where I am, AWG #14 wire is the smallest allowed in a dwelling (excepting thermostat and chime wiring) and protected with a 15 A breaker at maximum. That's what most of your "convenience" outlets and lighting circuits are usually wired with. For a 20 A circuit you need #12 wire and 20 A receptacles. (Thanks to the American Wire Gauge - AWG - a smaller number means a larger wire, of course.) There is also a maximum of 12 outlets allowed on a circuit of this type. Each duplex receptacle is counted as an outlet, so that's four outlets added to that circuit. If there isn't much else on it, fine from that standpoint. April may only be planning to run light loads on the bench, and maybe not much simultaneously, so the extra outlets are basically for convenience and to avoid extension cord use. That's fine, but if you have much heavier or simultaneous loads to run, it would be better to come from the panel with a new 20 A, 2 or 3-wire circuit... but that's a whole other ball o' wax.
@@civildiscourse2000 The origin of the larger number for the thinner wire comes from the number of times a larger diameter copper wire had to go through a smaller and smaller swaging die to thin the wire. It’s roughly similar for numbered drill bit sizes below 1/4 inch.
Awesome video April! I don't even know how your video ended up in my world but fantastic job just the same! Having a daughter I'm glad to see the "can-do" attitude you display in life. Keep 'em coming!😁👍
A code book will contain such information. If I remember correctly, you typically don’t want to remove any more than 1/3 of the width. Don’t hold me to that though, it’s been a long while since I looked that up. Personally I never cut studs like this. I always drill in the middle. Drywall repair isn’t hard or expensive, you just have to get past the intimidation and dive in.
I do projects of all sizes. My Viewers are such a wide range of woodworking/maker skillset. If I do large, more complicated projects, people complain I've lost my roots. If I do small projects, people complain I'm slacking. Sure is hard to please everyone so I do some of all. Thanks for watching.
not enough to be mentioned in the building code. In theory you could frame a house in 2x3, except these days they got you on the thickness of the insulation for outside walls.
I live upstairs, how do I install a wall outlet into my bedroom so I can put a TV in my room? Moving is complicated. They isntalled a outlet in the bathroom upstairs and in my brothers room but I couldn't get one in mine so it's a bit frustrating. :(
Very timely video, as this is my very next diy project, adding 2 new outlets in my master bedroom. Due to some drywall work, the baseboard hadn’t been installed as yet. But there’s a switch I want to tap into for my power to the new outlets. I was planning on drilling a hole in the studs but I like the notching idea. Thanks for the video!
Gregg- there are concerns about tapping into a switched circuit for outlet power. Often lighting circuits are run on lower amperage circuits, with lower amperage breaker protection, (say 15A) . Adding an outlet (say, standard 20A) could allow more draw than it should handle. These types of things usually work out okay, but could cause the house to fail an inspection, or worse, in rare instances. Also, if a plugged-in appliance trips the breaker, the lights go out, making it less safe to respond in some cases.
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@Linda L No it would not..
10/31/2021 - Sunday morning cup of coffee brewed, sitting out on patio, cue up new Wilkerdo video … Wait! What? No new April video today? That’s it, my week is scr#wed 😢 😆
@Linda L ... In the case of a retrofit there are different rules. The one I know for sure is you don't need to secure the wire except at the boxes. The nail plates were a nice touch for safety.
@@rogergy1 ... I do believe that's national code by now, with the possible exception of a ceiling outlet for a door opener. (depending on the ease of access is the way it's worded) How to do that is covered elsewhere, but circuits in any damp / wet location (garage / basement) must be GFCI protected.
As a retired electrician, we would use a strong magnet to locate the screws on the drywall to be removed, even nails, this way the drywall will come off in one piece. Just a small bit of help. Thanks for all you share n nice job. You're hired.
Yep. Not a fan of cutting into structure even this little bit.
@@kevinwilson2536 My first thought as well, hope that wall is not load bearing.
I used magnets like you say, as a kid, then bought lots of fancy stud finders. I’ve been coming back to magnets as I get older. They just work. Funny how that works.
@@markme4 .... in hind sight she could have cross drilled each stud and probably still used the nail plates for protection.
@@markme4 The building code allows load bearing studs to be notched up to 25% of their width, so if this is a 3-1/2" stud it can have up to a 7/8" notch taken out.
I teach home repair and maintenance at the university in Ashland, Oregon. I use many RUclipss. I just came upon you today and am highly impressed. You are now on my "go to list" for teaching. BTW, I am 73 years old and continue to learn. The best student is a teacher. Thank you
My 12 yr old daughter loves your channel, and I love that she loves your channel! I love for her to see that girls can do all the things guys can do and that these things are not just a “guy” thing. That way when I’m dead and gone, I’ll rest easy knowing she can handle whatever comes her way and won’t rely on anyone else.
Awesome! Give her a High 5 for me! I didn't start out knowing all that I do now. I started with small projects and as my confidence and skill level grew, I could do more advance projects. Please tell her to work hard, never give up and you can do what you set your mind to. Thanks for watching.
@@AprilWilkerson she saw your comment and came out of her room flying, I thought the house was on fire 🔥! Lol. She said she won’t stop trying and thanks! High five back!
When using the multitool, I like to cut a score line first along the pencil line, then angle the cutter 45° to cut through the rest of the drywall. The score line makes it easier for the cut-through. And sometimes I save the cut out piece to use for a drywall patch somewhere else. Nice job.
My 4 year old daughter: "Is that a girl?" Thanks for giving me an early opportunity to explain to my daughter how capable she is to do anything. I didn't realize she was already forming thoughts that this sort of thing may be "guy work". Subscribed.
Awesome! Give her a High Five for me! Thanks for watching.
As a woman millwright / sanitary process welder my grandchildren too thought it odd that I did " mans work " . My husband also a millwright / welder explained to them that the work involved THINKING and knowledge and not brute strength. That the work was most enjoyable usually and paid well. We are now mostly retired now and watch our grandchildren find their way in the world. Hope we gave them options for employment and job satisfaction.
Obviously most women don't like to touch electrical wires, get on hands and knees. Saw dust. Dirt and grime. These are just the facts. Its men type of work. She just enjoys doing it. Very profitable and she enjoys it.
I love your independence. I wished I had the outlet when I was growing up that you do now. I always was in the shop with my dad. I wished I would have told him that I wanted to continue doing it, but life was different back then. I became a secretary and puttered around in the shop when I could have made a career out of it.
Seems like you’re still here
Never too late!
Just the fact that you showed me how to use a putty knife along with the pet bar, was worth watching! I’m taking my shoe molding off my baseboards, and this helps. I’m always learning at age 67! I love building!
Awesome! So glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
Great, I see the putty knife trick literally one hour after I finished patching my wall from some crown moulding removal...Thanks April It'll com in handy later I'm sure.
Sweet! I was wondering how to add extra outlets to my daughter's room so she doesn't have extension cords run out to her reading lamps. This is the perfect solution!
Nice. I did the same thing last month except I did a wire chase a few inches higher than the existing outlet because I was doing built in cabinets with backs. The wire chase was just wide enough for the nail plates to be installed easily. Because the cabinets would have backs on them, I didn't need to reinstall the drywall and the backs would hide it all. Then I just ran the Romex to the height I wanted the boxes to be, just like you did. I'm impressed by how you did this and I have been a licensed GC for over 20 years. My hat is off to you.
Yeah, but, you now have a huge hole in the drywall which allows drafts to come up inside the wall cavity possibly affecting comfort and/or heating/cooling efficiency and reducing the fire retardant effect of drywall.
@@audiocarp Hi Howie. Depending on where this is done, I would very much agree with you. I would never do it on the firewall between a garage and the interior of the house for fire safety reasons. Drywall is not required on ANY walls of a house except for the firewall (whether it is between units in a multi-family building or between a garage and house) (even then, there are other ways to make a firewall). All other walls can have almost any finish material you want - think thin interior paneling. This is for the same reason that interior doors don't need to be fire rated, but the door from the garage to the interior of the house does. The chase/slot I cut in the drywall (and covered with plywood cabinet backs) would be less of a fire concern than the 1" gap at the bottom of every door in the house (much less if the individual door(s) weren't closed).
I also wouldn't do the "open" (even though it is encapsulated with plywood) chase/slot on an exterior wall of the house in the living areas, mainly for insect reasons. Your comfort reason would only be an issue in a newer "tight" (as in tightly built - air intrusion wise) home. In that case, you are spot on for that reason. But older homes are incredibly bad at air intrusion already and, as mentioned, everything was covered by plywood.
To be fair to you, I should have mentioned (in my original post) where I did this on my house - on the exterior wall of my garage. No finish requirements, no fire requirements and no heating/cooling.
As a former electrician, it actually was an overall good job! My preference would have been to drill the studs, but you took good safety precautions to protect the wire.👏
Yes, I would have drilled the studs as well but mostly because it would have been faster. But still a very nice, thorough, and safe job.
Where is the GFCI
@@brianpimental2948 probably upstream or a breaker
@@g.e.boroush5176 drilling the studs wouldn't be possible, as they are full of nails at the bottom plate. Using an auger would just make a mess.
You can accomplish the same effect using a long flexible drill bit that allows you do drill through studs from the box holes. You can't always avoid drywall work but you can reduce it significantly. If the wall is insulated it can be a little harder to do.
Good luck trying to fish the wiring thru those holes in each stud.
And good luck getting around that window. I thought it was pretty ingenious as going behind the base molding wasn’t something everyone would think of.
@@jtltet drill bits for this purpose have a hole at the point end so that you can pull a string or wire back through when you're done drilling.
Not if you have wallpaper... Thank you, April. I need an outlet for a bidet and hers is the perfect solution for my walk-in closet right beside the bathroom
7:28 I was mind blown with your sorcery. You ALWAYS have a creative solution that is so well shown 🙌🏼
7:00 Pro tip: Inserting both the feed and load Romex thru the *same* side (e.g. bottom) of your box makes snugging the box back into the wall a bit easier.
Great job. That's the method I used years ago in my 1940s house to add receptacles, switches and separate circuits. Have a great day.
Any considerations for doing this in finished walls with insulation? I'm guessings since the standard outlet height is 16in. or so that's not too much insulation to wrestle with?
Sparky’s going crazy!
Terrific video presentation with a lot of good suggestions. One suggestion, since you are mounting sockets on a wall with metal tools hanging above, flip your sockets with the ground stud facing up. This is an industrial standard that I learned about 30 years ago. If a plug isn’t completely inserted and something metal slides down, you want it to hit the ground and not a hot line. Just my 2¢.
Stay safe out there. Wishing you and your family a blessed week. Peace April.
This is standard practice in the hospital I worked at. Also wrap them with a couple wraps of electrical tape.👍🏻
@@--Nath-- …UL standard is that the earth/ground pins be the longest ones, so that they are the first to make (contact), and last to break (contact).
And this is standard engineering practice in ANY electrical or electronic work, actually.
@@--Nath-- As the ground pin is usually the tighter pin in the socket, it is far more likely that the hot and neutral pins will dislodge when they are on top, than the ground will when it is on top. I understand the perspective you're trying to argue in your point; but, it isn't really valid compared to the advantages of ground pin up.
@@--Nath-- Very unlikely as that is why the ground prong is much longer than the blades.
@@--Nath-- There is no upside down to US style outlets. Code allows either orientation and most GFCIs have labeling that can be read in either orientation. The longer ground prong accommodates an uneven withdrawal of the plug. You are worrying about a problem that doesn’t exist.
We have 1918 home and very few outlets. We have been struggling to figure out how to get more without tearing out the plastic and lathe or running those ugly wall channels...this is perfect!!! Great idea and save my bacon...our baseboards are 5" and will cover easy!!!!
Great! Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
Good job April, glad you put those plates in so you couldn’t accidentally nail the wires. Stay safe and keep up the good work and videos, and have fun along the way. Fred.🙏🏻🙏🏻👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻✋🏻✋🏻
I don't see what is stopping her from sending a Brad nail into the wire when reattaching the trim.
HA!! And you THINK you now have enough receptacles????
Receptacles in a shop are like clamps: you can never have too many!!
THANK you for using the steel nailing plates. I knew a guy who wired a ceiling fan from a wall receptacle by running lamp cord in the groove in the paneling, and then wallpapering over it. I also heard later that he was electrocuted at his next house.
Love your channel.
@@MinecraftWarrior22 Code only requires them when going through wooden members. No one nails trim to drywall only.
Thanks for sharing April. I’ve been wanting to add some outlets in my kitchen and my shop but haven’t really known the best way to go about it without cutting into the wall and having to do a bunch of work on the sheet rock. I’ve done plenty of electrical work in the past so I do know how to do all the wiring for that kind of stuff but you definitely made that whole process of getting the wiring in a lot simpler.
Did you have to make any changes to your service panel? Seems like running more things on that circuit would cause problems with breakers.
While just about everything about this is the wrong way to do it, it works and it'll likely never have an issue. Job done and mission accomplished.
What exactly here is "the wrong way to do it"?
At least explain ur self man so we can know
Generally building code doesn’t allow you to notch framing members. Electrical wire should be 1 3/4” from finished surface.
Like you said, done wrong but done. People asking what is wrong - you run wires through the middle of a stud, you don't damage the outside of the stud. Also, there is no thought to how many outlets are on the circuit and the potential load. If you run the appliances on those 8 extra plates you could very well overload the circuit and cause the wire to overheat. It's not likely to run it all at once, but that should be factored in when running circuits.
But this is how many of us would get a job done, and I sure am not saying I wouldn't cheat and do something similar in a pinch.
@@michaelmiller1109 NEC 300.4: "...cables or raceways shall be permitted to be laid in notches in wood studs, joists, rafters, or other wood
members where the cable or raceway at those points is protected against nails or screws by a steel plate..."
I reeeeeeally need to pick up one of those multi tools....
Same method would be great for adding cable TV or internet cable drops in the house.
cable and internet are not as good an application if you need to use both drops. Ethernet doesn’t split well like this, if you are extending then maybe a coupler would be ok, but don’t try to splice one in
trick is you should be grafting, not splitting. my cousin grows apple trees and he showed me you can graft ethernet cables onto each other but you gotta remember to water them and not over-fertilize or else you wont get a gigabit link
@@mdjrboyvb I was referring to how the cables can be hidden when running them in a finished space.
Obviously cat5 ethernet will need to be connected through a switch and cable will need a splitter or powered amp.
@@dobrovik Damn. That's where I screwed up.
Nice video again! I wish it was this simple to hide wires down here in Holland, where almost every house has brick walls with plaster + paint or wallpaper...
Hi April I like your video they are very informed.
I have one question I’m running a 10 gauge extension cord from outside plug that has a 30 amp breaker on to my shop but what I want to do is run power to it do I have to Barry the wire or can I condit to my shot it like three feet apart from my main garage where the circuit breaker is
Anyone that has a "clean garage" is suspect and not someone I want to know. LOL Great stuff April!
I know, I have seen people and they can park cars in their garage's ........very strange !! ....lol
Great point
If my name isn't Dave or David can I still post here??
A clean garage makes me sad. Ours was clean enough to park in for about 1 month after moving in. No cars have made it that far for nigh on 15 years now. No reason to think they ever will again.
@@slowguy56 We've hit the Dave/David quota so you're free to post. lol
Same thing with my garage. I think it was used for cars maybe the first three days after we moved in. That's prime workshop space!
That is one way to do it but in my case I ran a new 12 gauge wire from the load center to the garage and then at each 2x3.5 I cut a 2x1 inch hole on either side and drilled a hole through the 2x3.5 for the wire to run through. Added a GFCI outlet on the first of five outlets along the wall and the sixth exited the garage as an external weather proof addition. Patching is simple with a 30 minute patching compound and then a light coat of light drywall compound, sand prime and paint. Less wire involved is a bonus.
2x3.5? Did you mean the 1.5x3.5 actual or the standard nominal 2x4 dimension?
@@JT_70 Funny, yeah I though about that after I wrote it. 😀
What do you recommend if you don't have a baseboard in your garage? Also, by cutting the 2×4, doesn't that ruin the integrity/strength of it and put your wall at risk of sagging?
Funny thing about building code is they will tell you what size floor or roof beams need to be, but on walls there's no spec... unless it's the thickness of the insulation. I was told that by a contractor years ago.
@@rupe53 terrible advice from that contractor. Walls do have code. You can even look it up or contact your local code enforcement office.
@@tjohnson4062 .... all I can tell you is many things are up to the local inspector and retrofits seem to have many exceptions. Personally, I would drill each stud and probably have put plywood on the wall to prevent punch-through of stored items under the bench. Drywall isn't that sturdy.
@@rupe53 Your contractor lied to you. All lumber is stamped in the US and Canada, and wall load requirements (as "Wall Assemblies") are clearly described in the International Residential Building Code and the Uniform Building Code.
@@josephdestaubin7426 .... the code also tells you how much you can cut / notch a given timber and where you can do that. Granted, doing that near the end is not recommended and wouldn't be my first choice. OTOH, when these old guys got their info it was likely 40 years ago before it was spelled out clearly in the code. As far as weight loading, I'm not too concerned. Most of the code these days is aimed at wall thickness for insulation values.
This is a great reason to use a stud finder with a built in voltage meter that tells you when you're close to hot wires. The vertical wires will be loose and prone to new nails or screws hitting them. This obviously wont be an issue in this case because April can clearly see where the wires are, but if you are in a house with retrofits or remodels where someone might not have done it as cleanly as April did, it's important to know where cords are.
Great video. Short and to the point, while still being very informative!!
The loose wires are plenty safe. There is nothing to pinch them. If you were running a screw into the drywall in the middle of a cavity (why would you?) the wire would simply get pushed out of the way. There is nothing to keep the wire fixed in place allowing the screw to puncture the wire. There is 100% nothing wrong with this install.
Where can I get my own April Wilkerson? I looked at Lowe's & they were all out.
This video was so helpful. I watched another video where the guy drilled wholes in the studs but he had higher molding. After watching your video, I think I can do the job with my shorter molding by notching the studs at the bottom and then protecting them like you did.
I'm glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
She is more competent than most of the helpers I've had. They couldn't have figured out how to do that if they just watch ur video. Lol. No code issues and good workmanship. 👍
This is a good trick for someone with wooden studs... I live in Hawaii and have a supposedly hurricane proof house with metal studs. I have to figure out where the openings on the metal studs are so I think drywall repair is necessary.
What gauge Romex did you use, 14-2 or 12-2, I saw the yellow Romex and it always makes me think of the 12-2 Romex? These were 110 receptacles, so 14-2 Romex should have been used ? Could you use 12-2 Romex or is the code you need to use the 14-2 Romex for all 15 amp receptacles?
HI April, Great video! The only thing I'd like to know is how you connected the new Romex wire to the existing electrical box. Im very green when it comes to wiring so not sure how that works.
Any considerations for doing this in finished walls with insulation? I'm guessings since the standard outlet height is 16in. or so that's not too much insulation to wrestle with?
I installed a 12 inch ceramic tile along the base in my garage and it would have been perfect for this project. I finished my walls at the same time so I just ran the wire normally, but I thought it would be another way to accomplish the same thing. I also like the way it protects the walls when washing the floors.
Is there no concern with removing parts of the wall studs holding up your outer walls?
That's what I was wondering. Surprised nobody gave an answer because it's the first thing my brain lit up with.
Good video. Make sure to mention that you need to double check the load for the circuit as you don't want to overload it. Good job!
Just out of curiosity, what IF the load is too high for the circuit? Is a higher Amp circuit the answer? And, is that job a DIY, or does it require an electrician ( which are hard to find and get a response)?
I’ve been looking for this video for a while . You are the best.
Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
Good job ,I have done this several time but usually I just get a long shank bit and drill holes. No insulation in the wall ?
Is there any issue if I skip putting back the bottom drywall at all? The wires won't be exposed and bottom drywall is not visible at all anyway right? What are your thoughts?
I plan on hiring an electrician to do just this exact job. Thanks to this video and the comments from other viewers, I feel much better equipped to evaluate which professional I will hire. Thank you all.
A professional electrician will not be doing it this way. Actually, don't hire an electrician that would do it this way.
Did you up your amperage or did the wire guage restrict your doing so? I had to install outlets, switches and lights after the sheetrock was done. I went with exposed conduit.
Very Well Done. 12/2 with Ground. Ok as long as 1st feeder plug has GFIC and maybe Arc Fault built in. Nice.
As long as the breaker for the circuit matches the smallest wire size in the circuit, it will be fine. #14:15A, #12:20A. The best approach is to make sure the first receptacle is GFCI, as you suggest but use AF breakers.
Thanks for this video. I'm getting ready to add six(6) outlets in my garage and this gave me some new ways to accomplish my task. Keep the videos coming and God Bless!
OMGosh, I needed to see this for my next project! Great timing, April, and great video! Thanks!
Better than any videos for the same topic on RUclips. Liked and subscribed!
It's so nice to see a girl not afraid to do a man's job. You're a keeper! Cheers 🥂
I am making some changes to my garage and need to add outlets, I just need to fish the wire from the other side of the wall, I had no idea those boxes existed! Great video with good info!
I admire you April! You’re so handy!
Thanks! Glad you enjoy my channel. Thanks for watching.
April, I love your videos and you always talk safety but in this short maybe you should have mentioned that before you start make sure that you trip the breaker to the outlet and make sure it is dead.
What does the building code in your area say about the number of plugs on one circuit? I'd be interested to know.
A large putty knife as a pry bar support is a GREAT tip!
Anytime a DIYer invades the world of professionals, it is sure to bring out well intended comments about what may have been done wrong like not mentioning the obvious, first turn off the power. :-)
It's to April's credit that she gave us credit for knowing that. But ask me about the time I cut into one of those old-fashioned cables carrying two hots from different unlinked breakers and a neutral. Every pair of diagonal cutters needs to have its little crescent shape on the blades, right?
Never thought about that as well. If nothing else I learned to use a putty knife
@@Digital-Dan ... isn't that how you make your own wire strippers?
Nice job April. I have to add a double gang box behind my lathe. I'll use this method to accomplish this task. Thanks.
Thank you so much for all your videos. I just bought a home here In Moreno Valley CA. And trust me. I will be seeing a lot of your Videos to help me improve my Home .Thank You Once again for all your help and hard work. 👍👍👍💯💯💯
Awesome! Glad you enjoy my channel. Thanks for watching.
@@AprilWilkerson You are very welcome. You do great and amazing job's. And all you're videos are well edited and very useful.
Thank you April, your videos are super easy to follow for novices. Thank you Again
Glad you like them!
AWESOME JOB GAL. YOU ROCK!
You picked up a lot of great traits at an early age. 👍
I’m more preferable at pulling Romex from inside box out vice pulling In as tabs can be a pain- also allow you to just pull Romex without need for copper wire (Maybe, trick is to bend end a bit as when it hits plate it will won’t just stop at plate. (And I never cut off until the end In case there’s an “oops”.
Middle receptacle, instead of cutting the wire and then running another wire up/down, make one pull by measuring height, allow extra 12-15” above, bend tightly and push up to the hole. Then continue to last box. (Here u just use ur lineman pliers to cut where you bent the wire and you save a step.
Look at getting some extension rings (if desired). Will allow you to flush mount with the plywood (if field conditions permit)
And with USB devices so common and need to charge phone or tablet, B/T speaker, change out a duplex with combo duplex and USB. This will give you USB ports and still free up your receptacles.
I ❤️ hearing the comments where young girls are taking an interest in your skills and a desire to learn the trades. As a STEM mentor myself, I encourage kids to seek trades if they don’t want to follow the “Science, Technology, Engineering, Mathematics “ route. I was blessed to work with some great women in my Navy Days as a Seabee.
Keep up the good work. Best of blessings in 2022
Thanks April! Just moved to Texas and have a garage with no outlets on a wall that needs them and this is perfect for what I now will do!
Good Job. Only comment would be no need for the push connectors. Just added an extra set of wires and another point of possible failure. If you pause it at the 7:33 mark you can see the extra wiring. Run the feed from the existing outlet to the bottom of the left receptacle. Run 2 wires from the top of the left one to the top of the right one. Then run the wires to the other outlet to the bottom of the right one. Will make the box less crowded and and eliminate the potential for future failure of the push connectors.
Did you have to add or increase the fuse in breaker box?
How many outlets can you add to one breaker? I need more outlets in my garage but I don’t want to overload the breaker.
I love your content, but I don't recommend notching any structural framing member. Much better to go through the middle of the wood. Personally, I would have made the drywall the sacrificial piece in this build.
Notching is bad where you might have a bending moment in the member, but at the end of the stud you will only be looking at axial loads. It is unlikely the crushing stress of the sill plate was controlling. This notch at the base of the stud probably does not compromise the system.
Why?
@@--Nath-- it's a thing here in the UK
@@--Nath-- Could you provide a reference to a NEC section that disallows notching structural members? UPD: I see that you're not in US, likely have different codes there. I heard that you guys aren't even allowed to work on your electrical stuff, is it true?
Nail plate is actually required in such cases by US electrical code (NEC), it's kind of officially approved way to do it.
A few reasons. 1. Wood’s strength comes from its edges not the center, think about a how a truss works. This is my primary reason. 2. Code requires all plumbing and electrical to be 1 1/4” from the edge of the framing member this gives drywall and finish carpenters something to attach to without fear of hitting wire or plumbing. If for some reason that is not possible a piece of metal strong enough to stop a nail or screw must be placed over it to protect from piercing it.
In this scenario they wanted no visibility to wires and no wall patching. Which isn’t possible to do and still meet code. So, if I am going to cheat code anyway; I am going to do it with something that is primarily asthetic, dado the drywall behind the baseboard.
Nice job and great presentation. No wasted time kibitzing, just “get er done”.
This is awesome april. Thanks for the idea.
You are so welcome!
Thanks so much for this very informative video. I don't know anything about electrical, but feel I could add some outlets now! Question...how many outlets can you run off of another? This may make no sense, but I have the concern of "overloading" like what happens when you plug too many things into a power strip. Do these boxes have a limit as to how many things can be plugged in at one time? Thanks again for any info on this :)
The video is so detail and clear
It's helpful for daily
It's a talented lady.Like the video.
Thanks for sharing how to add new outlet.
Many comments question the cutting of a thin, short section at the bottom of the stud, and whether that action damages the strength of the stud. Considering that bigger holes are cut into studs during construction in order to run romex, I’m going to assume that the considerably-smaller bit of material April is removing to run it does very little, if any damage to the integrity of each stud. I have seen this method in many how-to books over the years, so even though that doesn’t confirm the validity, it does show that it’s fairly common practice.
Thank you. That's my opinion also but do respect the fact that others have their own opinion. Thanks for watching.
DO you have any videos on how to run fish tape? I got to update the living room wiring. I still have problems fishing wires.
Very practical project with step-by-step walkthrough, thanks!
Nice job and thinking out the details. I can't feel completely comfortable cutting into those structural joists , seems it reduces ability to carry the load.
Ha, I recently did this method to install an outlet behind my tonal. Instead of notching out a space for the Romex I drilled a hole in the middle of the stud to run my wire through. It was a pain but it turned out well. I also had lots of insulation in the wall which I had to go through with the romex.
Well done! Thanks for not going on and on with superfluous explanations about tools or wiring, or anything else!
Glad it was helpful!
@@AprilWilkerson For beginner DYI novices you should recommend checking the local and State building codes first.
Great video. Maybe a router instead of the multi tool for the notching of the wire? Just a little arm chair thinkery! 👍🏻👍🏻
Nice video, April~! That's a great technique for executing that project. I probably would've drilled a pass-thru hole at the stud's bottom for the Romex, but the notching idea works too~!
Thanks for sharing this~!
As always a great video April, keep them coming.
7:20 Isn't using Romex without the sheath in the box a code violation since they don't have the appropriate ANSI/UL markings?
April - I'm not sure your "behind the baseboard" technique saved any time vs simply cutting a 6-8" wide slot the length of the run, a little below the box height. If you position your slot to fall between drywall fasteners, it's simple to R&R a patch like this. This would have allowed you to fasten the cable near the boxes (your only code miss), saved some cable, and probably have saved time.
Would this method pass code/home inspection if it were being built from the ground up?
Probably not. If walls (drywall) is not yet mounted, you would drill 3/4 inch holes in the studs to run the cable and no need to go near the floor.
Thanks for the video, April. When putting this many outlets in one breaker for a work station, do you recommend replacing the breaker from a 15 to 20 Amps?
Pardon me for jumping in.
It would be against code to upsize a breaker unless the wire size is adequate and the outlets are properly rated.
I think North American codes are pretty consistent from place to place. Where I am, AWG #14 wire is the smallest allowed in a dwelling (excepting thermostat and chime wiring) and protected with a 15 A breaker at maximum. That's what most of your "convenience" outlets and lighting circuits are usually wired with. For a 20 A circuit you need #12 wire and 20 A receptacles. (Thanks to the American Wire Gauge - AWG - a smaller number means a larger wire, of course.)
There is also a maximum of 12 outlets allowed on a circuit of this type. Each duplex receptacle is counted as an outlet, so that's four outlets added to that circuit. If there isn't much else on it, fine from that standpoint.
April may only be planning to run light loads on the bench, and maybe not much simultaneously, so the extra outlets are basically for convenience and to avoid extension cord use. That's fine, but if you have much heavier or simultaneous loads to run, it would be better to come from the panel with a new 20 A, 2 or 3-wire circuit... but that's a whole other ball o' wax.
@@civildiscourse2000 Thank you! I appreciate your assistance.
@@TheMarine1967 Happy to help.
@@civildiscourse2000 The origin of the larger number for the thinner wire comes from the number of times a larger diameter copper wire had to go through a smaller and smaller swaging die to thin the wire.
It’s roughly similar for numbered drill bit sizes below 1/4 inch.
Did you update anything in your breaker box?
Awesome video April! I don't even know how your video ended up in my world but fantastic job just the same! Having a daughter I'm glad to see the "can-do" attitude you display in life. Keep 'em coming!😁👍
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
I always wonder, how do you know how much into the stud you can cut without affecting structural integrity?
A code book will contain such information. If I remember correctly, you typically don’t want to remove any more than 1/3 of the width. Don’t hold me to that though, it’s been a long while since I looked that up. Personally I never cut studs like this. I always drill in the middle. Drywall repair isn’t hard or expensive, you just have to get past the intimidation and dive in.
There is also a keep out zone which is about 6 inches from the stud ends which this was not compliant to. This has lowered the wall rating to a 2 x 3
Great job. I picked up a couple good tips from this video. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Pretty slick April!! I just might do that!
Very clever tip. Initially I was worried about protection, but I was glad to see you adding nail plates. Baseboard hides many sins!
Glad it was helpful!
Great work April - very nicely done!
That's brilliant!
That is a great way to handle additional outlets. I am glad to see you doing smaller projects again.
I do projects of all sizes. My Viewers are such a wide range of woodworking/maker skillset. If I do large, more complicated projects, people complain I've lost my roots. If I do small projects, people complain I'm slacking. Sure is hard to please everyone so I do some of all. Thanks for watching.
So reducing the stud size doesn’t affect the weight on each stud?
not enough to be mentioned in the building code. In theory you could frame a house in 2x3, except these days they got you on the thickness of the insulation for outside walls.
Thanks for the tip of a putty knife with pry bar to pull of the molding.
Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
I live upstairs, how do I install a wall outlet into my bedroom so I can put a TV in my room? Moving is complicated. They isntalled a outlet in the bathroom upstairs and in my brothers room but I couldn't get one in mine so it's a bit frustrating. :(
Hiding the cuts under the base board is brilliant!
Nicely done April! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
3/4" drywall, no insulation. Yea, this is the south.
My attached garage (AZ) isn’t insulated either. 🙄
My same thoughts! But now she added a work bench she might want to later.
Yep no insulation in the walls down south.
code frequently requires that garages be uninsulated :-/ ...with 2x drywall on the attached walls, if attached to the house.
@@TristanMorrow code?😂😂😂
Very timely video, as this is my very next diy project, adding 2 new outlets in my master bedroom. Due to some drywall work, the baseboard hadn’t been installed as yet. But there’s a switch I want to tap into for my power to the new outlets. I was planning on drilling a hole in the studs but I like the notching idea. Thanks for the video!
Glad you found it useful.
Gregg- there are concerns about tapping into a switched circuit for outlet power. Often lighting circuits are run on lower amperage circuits, with lower amperage breaker protection, (say 15A) . Adding an outlet (say, standard 20A) could allow more draw than it should handle. These types of things usually work out okay, but could cause the house to fail an inspection, or worse, in rare instances. Also, if a plugged-in appliance trips the breaker, the lights go out, making it less safe to respond in some cases.
@@keffective6650 Thanks for the info. I’ll keep that in mind. Good to know. Much appreciated.
That was a very neat way to get around your problem, I liked it!!!