Which effect do you prefer? Do you know of any other techniques you can use to get the most out of your Streaking Grime? If you have enjoyed this video, please hit the video like button and if you have not done so yet, I hope this video has earned your subscription as we have loads more cool product tests and awesome models in the pipeline!
I truly appreciate you making this video. It’s great to see the two different products being demonstrated. Stumbled on to your channel. I subscribed. Great content. Thanks again!!
For the Vallejo stuff, water can work as your solvent, but as you've seen, if any medium sets, you get the coffee stains, or it plain sticks. Vallejo's airbrush thinner is better for cleaning up. As for techniques, for streaks, coat your base colours with a hardy varnish and let it properly cure. You can then pre-wet the surface with your solvent and then use wayyyy less than youre applying, it'll naturally bleed down with that rain streak effect. If you put it on dry, I'd also recommend using a ton less, with a much smaller brush, putting thin streaks on where you want them, rather than just slopping it on, then use a solvent-dampened (not wet) flat brush to feather and filter them out.
Oil paints. Oils are more cost efficient, you can mix colours to give interesting looks, you can mix to the thinness you need (makes a great panel liner), and it's even slower to dry than enamel, so get more working time. Recommend makeup sponges (both triangles and sticks), as they don't leave any fibers.
Ahhh yes Oils are a whole different rabbit hole! I am using them more and more and it is really interesting testing them in different situations to see how they handle. Definitely another tool in the toolbox!
Always interesting. I've seen this stuff, but never used it, so it was nice to see the results you can get. I've often wondered what effects the various 'chipping solutions' produce, so, if the fancy takes you... Clearly Cilit Bang no longer exists forty thousand years in the future.
Yes the difference between the two certainly surprised me! Hmm chipping solutions.... now there is a rabbit hole 😁. I will take a look at that. And yes.... all the technology of eternal war, yet a decent mop cannot be found 😆
Thanks and glad you found it helpful! You do not need white spirit for the Vallejo streaking grime as it is an acrylic. However, acrylic thinners may be of use if you are struggling with water
God damn streaking grime is expensive in the UK. In Germany it runs for about 3,60 per bottle on shops like pk pro. When it comes to weathering though Enamel based products just work a lot better. You won't get any coffee staining with happens a lot with acrylics. And the reductive technique makes working way less of a hassle.
It's crazy how the same product price can vary so much from country to country isn't it. I know what you mean. While Acrylic weathering products have their place, I do like enamel versions for reductive techniques
Hi, as far as streaking grime goes, I would expect that as long as your model is properly cured and primed, then it should not matter. So it really should be just down to the effect you want. Hope that helps!
@@FlyingRavenStudios Thank you so much for the response. Well, I'm thinking of something like a decorative statue made from an interesting looking PLA filament. So curing isn't an issue, and I'd rather not cover the whole filament with primer paint, if I'm using something that is already special looking. I'm interested in adding some patina or lowlights to, say, glitter PLA filament statue of a dragon or something.
Ahh I see. Apologies I missunderstood. Yeah that sounds like a very fun and interesting project! Being honest, I have not worked with PLA yet, so cannot give much advice on what would work best. Have you considered a dirty down verdigris paint depending on the patina you are after? I have done a few videos on their range. Apart from that, all I can suggest is doing a PLA test piece I am afraid. Good luck and please let me know how you get on!
Thats a great question. I have been using this stuff a lot more since I made this video and it really depends on the effect you are going for and the paints you are applying it over. If you want to, you can apply straight over acrylic paint for example. Just be gentle with the solvent used to streak it out. However it can "soak" into the paint a little, which can make it harder to remove. However, I have found that if you put even a semi gloss / satin varnish over your paint first, then the streaking grime will flow and streak out easier. It also prevents "soaking in" or staining of the paint which means if you mess it up, it is easier to go back, remove the streaking grime and pretty much start again. Does that help?
Those Rosemary & Co drybrushes look a lot better than the Army Painter ones I have (the bristles on mine are quite absorbant weirdly, even when lightly damp). I read somewhere that R&Co make the Artis Opus brushes, have you used the Army Painter brushes and if so, how do you think they compare to the R&Co ones?
Great question! I do not know if you have seen it yet, but I did look at the Rosemary&Co. Series 33 brushes in more detail in a previous video (ruclips.net/video/CykncACNfmY/видео.html). I guess it depends what you are using them for. To be fair to Army Painter, I only have one of their brushes (Hobby: Highlighting brush). It is a nice brush and as a synthetic I use it a lot for the first coats when painting faces on busts using oils. I have found that while the AP one is a good brush, the tip has not lasted as long or as well as the R&Co. Series 33. But as I said, that is the only AP brush I have used, so not really a fair comparison
What's enamel like drying on metal surface with gloss paint or how long would it take to bond to it where the model can be handled without the effects coming off onto your hands?
Great question. My gut feeling is that it would not be a problem. But being honest with you, that scenario is not something I have personally tested. However, I have used these over a satin varnish and it bonded and dried very quickly. But to be safe, it might be worth doing a test piece with your particular paints before using it on a project.
@@FlyingRavenStudios Cheers for the response..it seems to dry well to matte like surfaces..but on one my model cars which has a gloss finish the AK seem to only partially stick in places and doesnt seem it completely cure..well not in the way that it feels bone dry..it feels oily even after 2 days and comes off onto my fingers from handling.
@theonemasterwarhero hmmm thats interesting. I have not found that.... but being fair, I have not used gloss paint and streaking grime recently. It's definitely not a case of the streaking grime not being fully shaken / mixed up?
@@FlyingRavenStudios Not used any gloss paint with AK...the model car by M2 Machines 1 64 scale has a gloss finish on the paint work..but the AK doesn't seem to stick to it very well unless it was more of a satin to matte finish..I always shake the AK rust streaks before use and let a thin layer collect in the cap/top and just gather a bit on the brush and simply go over. 👍
I havent used any of these streaking oil effects because i play age of sigmar where we havent oils,but i must say that the ak effect seems so much more real than vallejo. I started with vallejo because sells cheaper but really have poor products,the crackle paint is horrible,the snow effect is crap and isnt even close to snow etc while ak i only have tried the combo of snow and is great and seems real snow
I feel like you could do this a lot more cheaply and a lot better with just some oil paint, to be honest.. just put a load of tiny dots of oil paint of different shades of grimy colours on the model and then get a brush with a tiny amount of white spirit on it and then drag it downwards. The different colours would give it some colour variation, and given it's oil paint if you didn't like the end result you could just wipe it all off with some white spirit at the end.
Yes that certainly is another option. You can do the white spirit trick with the enamels, but I know what you mean. I want to do a video exploring oils for weathering/ effects soon
![ROSÉ(로제) - APT. (Band VER.) (With. 이영지) [더 시즌즈-이영지의 레인보우] | KBS 241129 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IW8qaemx74g/mqdefault.jpg)
Which effect do you prefer?
Do you know of any other techniques you can use to get the most out of your Streaking Grime?
If you have enjoyed this video, please hit the video like button and if you have not done so yet, I hope this video has earned your subscription as we have loads more cool product tests and awesome models in the pipeline!
I truly appreciate you making this video. It’s great to see the two different products being demonstrated. Stumbled on to your channel. I subscribed. Great content. Thanks again!!
Thank you and you are very welcome. Welcome to the Flying Raven journey!
Another excellent comparison test, Sir!👍
Thanks!😎
Found this after buying the vallejo grime and looking for some basic techniques to get started. very helpful thank you
Glad it was helpful!
I find that oil paints and white spirits replace enamels pretty well.
Personally, I can find a role for both enamels and oils to keep both in my paint collection. But I know what you mean
For the Vallejo stuff, water can work as your solvent, but as you've seen, if any medium sets, you get the coffee stains, or it plain sticks. Vallejo's airbrush thinner is better for cleaning up.
As for techniques, for streaks, coat your base colours with a hardy varnish and let it properly cure. You can then pre-wet the surface with your solvent and then use wayyyy less than youre applying, it'll naturally bleed down with that rain streak effect.
If you put it on dry, I'd also recommend using a ton less, with a much smaller brush, putting thin streaks on where you want them, rather than just slopping it on, then use a solvent-dampened (not wet) flat brush to feather and filter them out.
Thanks. Some nice ideas there 👍
Oil paints.
Oils are more cost efficient, you can mix colours to give interesting looks, you can mix to the thinness you need (makes a great panel liner), and it's even slower to dry than enamel, so get more working time. Recommend makeup sponges (both triangles and sticks), as they don't leave any fibers.
Ahhh yes Oils are a whole different rabbit hole! I am using them more and more and it is really interesting testing them in different situations to see how they handle. Definitely another tool in the toolbox!
Always interesting. I've seen this stuff, but never used it, so it was nice to see the results you can get. I've often wondered what effects the various 'chipping solutions' produce, so, if the fancy takes you...
Clearly Cilit Bang no longer exists forty thousand years in the future.
Yes the difference between the two certainly surprised me!
Hmm chipping solutions.... now there is a rabbit hole 😁. I will take a look at that.
And yes.... all the technology of eternal war, yet a decent mop cannot be found 😆
Very useful Thanks a lot I prefer the color of the Vallejo
Thanks and yeah the difference between the two effects really surprised me!
Do you need white spirit for the vallejo streaking grime aswell ? Good and helpful video I just ordered vallejos version
Thanks and glad you found it helpful! You do not need white spirit for the Vallejo streaking grime as it is an acrylic. However, acrylic thinners may be of use if you are struggling with water
God damn streaking grime is expensive in the UK. In Germany it runs for about 3,60 per bottle on shops like pk pro.
When it comes to weathering though Enamel based products just work a lot better. You won't get any coffee staining with happens a lot with acrylics. And the reductive technique makes working way less of a hassle.
It's crazy how the same product price can vary so much from country to country isn't it.
I know what you mean. While Acrylic weathering products have their place, I do like enamel versions for reductive techniques
Brexit - great idea 😂
Hi, which type of formula do you recommend to use with 3D printed models? (PLA.)
Hi, as far as streaking grime goes, I would expect that as long as your model is properly cured and primed, then it should not matter. So it really should be just down to the effect you want. Hope that helps!
@@FlyingRavenStudios Thank you so much for the response.
Well, I'm thinking of something like a decorative statue made from an interesting looking PLA filament. So curing isn't an issue, and I'd rather not cover the whole filament with primer paint, if I'm using something that is already special looking.
I'm interested in adding some patina or lowlights to, say, glitter PLA filament statue of a dragon or something.
Ahh I see. Apologies I missunderstood. Yeah that sounds like a very fun and interesting project! Being honest, I have not worked with PLA yet, so cannot give much advice on what would work best. Have you considered a dirty down verdigris paint depending on the patina you are after? I have done a few videos on their range. Apart from that, all I can suggest is doing a PLA test piece I am afraid.
Good luck and please let me know how you get on!
What should the surface be? Semi-gloss, gloss or matt? Thanks.
Thats a great question. I have been using this stuff a lot more since I made this video and it really depends on the effect you are going for and the paints you are applying it over. If you want to, you can apply straight over acrylic paint for example. Just be gentle with the solvent used to streak it out. However it can "soak" into the paint a little, which can make it harder to remove.
However, I have found that if you put even a semi gloss / satin varnish over your paint first, then the streaking grime will flow and streak out easier. It also prevents "soaking in" or staining of the paint which means if you mess it up, it is easier to go back, remove the streaking grime and pretty much start again. Does that help?
@@FlyingRavenStudios yes. This helps quite a bit. Thank you.
Those Rosemary & Co drybrushes look a lot better than the Army Painter ones I have (the bristles on mine are quite absorbant weirdly, even when lightly damp). I read somewhere that R&Co make the Artis Opus brushes, have you used the Army Painter brushes and if so, how do you think they compare to the R&Co ones?
Great question! I do not know if you have seen it yet, but I did look at the Rosemary&Co. Series 33 brushes in more detail in a previous video (ruclips.net/video/CykncACNfmY/видео.html).
I guess it depends what you are using them for. To be fair to Army Painter, I only have one of their brushes (Hobby: Highlighting brush). It is a nice brush and as a synthetic I use it a lot for the first coats when painting faces on busts using oils.
I have found that while the AP one is a good brush, the tip has not lasted as long or as well as the R&Co. Series 33. But as I said, that is the only AP brush I have used, so not really a fair comparison
As for Rosemary &Co. making the brushes for Artis Opus... I have no idea I am afraid!
What's enamel like drying on metal surface with gloss paint or how long would it take to bond to it where the model can be handled without the effects coming off onto your hands?
Great question. My gut feeling is that it would not be a problem. But being honest with you, that scenario is not something I have personally tested.
However, I have used these over a satin varnish and it bonded and dried very quickly. But to be safe, it might be worth doing a test piece with your particular paints before using it on a project.
@@FlyingRavenStudios Cheers for the response..it seems to dry well to matte like surfaces..but on one my model cars which has a gloss finish the AK seem to only partially stick in places and doesnt seem it completely cure..well not in the way that it feels bone dry..it feels oily even after 2 days and comes off onto my fingers from handling.
@theonemasterwarhero hmmm thats interesting. I have not found that.... but being fair, I have not used gloss paint and streaking grime recently. It's definitely not a case of the streaking grime not being fully shaken / mixed up?
@@FlyingRavenStudios Not used any gloss paint with AK...the model car by M2 Machines 1 64 scale has a gloss finish on the paint work..but the AK doesn't seem to stick to it very well unless it was more of a satin to matte finish..I always shake the AK rust streaks before use and let a thin layer collect in the cap/top and just gather a bit on the brush and simply go over. 👍
@theonemasterwarhero yeah I have no idea then 🤔. I haven't come across that before unless anyone else has? Interesting point though!
5:11 hit it lightly with some 95% IPA
Worth a try. Nothing else was shifting it 😁
I havent used any of these streaking oil effects because i play age of sigmar where we havent oils,but i must say that the ak effect seems so much more real than vallejo. I started with vallejo because sells cheaper but really have poor products,the crackle paint is horrible,the snow effect is crap and isnt even close to snow etc while ak i only have tried the combo of snow and is great and seems real snow
I have seen friends who have used the AK snow with good results. I am looking forward to testing that one out
I feel like you could do this a lot more cheaply and a lot better with just some oil paint, to be honest.. just put a load of tiny dots of oil paint of different shades of grimy colours on the model and then get a brush with a tiny amount of white spirit on it and then drag it downwards. The different colours would give it some colour variation, and given it's oil paint if you didn't like the end result you could just wipe it all off with some white spirit at the end.
Yes that certainly is another option. You can do the white spirit trick with the enamels, but I know what you mean. I want to do a video exploring oils for weathering/ effects soon
thats one dirty structure
Haha, yeah it is. You can make it a much more subtle effect if you want to of course