18:21 DON'T use enamels on push fit models without gluing them. Its a well documented problem that the paint can flow into the gaps between the parts and then have nowhere to evaporate. The solvent eventually eats through the plastic making it very brittle. I think a lot of enamel washes like this even say "not suitable for push fit models" on the bottle
You could just pull off the pieces that aren't glued and do them separately. After it's evaporated, just push them back on. Seems pretty self explanatory.
*Please note - When not talking to the camera I always mask up while airbrushing enamels, I should have made this clear in the video, be sensible, peeps, and look after yourselves!* Have you used streaking grime. any tips of your own? What product should we try out in a future video? elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/ak-interactive/ak-interactive-streaking-grime-x6
I would have liked to see a "side-by-side" picture of the finished model vs. the same finished model after streaking grime. I see that it looks great but a before and after picture would help me to understand how streaking grime reacts. Thanks for the video though, I just ordered a bottle of streaking grime. Thanks for all your hard work.
For all the people who want to keep their sanity: use a brush soaked in white spirit/odourless thinner. You will get more control than a piece of tissue.
Been using streaking grime for awhile now but that cloth method is a total game changer. Funnily enough i had one sitting on my table next to me. Wasnt for model use but now it is. Thanks for the video!
Will there be a streaking grime “streaks” vid in the future. That’s a technique in itself. Great results all over though. Never thought of trying that.
Can recommend IT/ technician dusting swabs for this kind of application. They are an open cell foam swab on a rigid plastic handle. No lint, absorbent to a degree but won't drink up copious amount of thinner and come in a wide range of sizes. Also much cheaper than 'hobby' swabs
picked up a bottle after watching this for use with my 40k admech and knights, had been debating for a while if i felt confident enough to start working with enamels but this helped a lot
use triangular makeup sponges to remove! can be super useful for big areas and also for stippling or adding texture once they're a little wet. They also have zero fibers so they're great
Learning to use filters and blending with enamels or oils is always great. Really awesome scale modeling technique to use on miniature painting. Great video, thanks.
Need to get me some of those "brush brushes" ...🤣 love this, I've been experimenting with rust streaks from AK,to some success, using it sparingly alongside my own dark sepia wash ..thanks for the tips
Got my Series D, pad and texture palette couple of weeks ago. Your videos keeps me company, and they're always a very wholesome moment for me. Waiting for the next one. I'll definitely try out streaking grime on my next project :)
All the support to you and your company as you guys work on new products. I'd love to see the differences between the different streaking grimes, and maybe some other enamel washes as well. I use an enamel wash for wood from AK, it's pure magic.
I use makeup sponges for removing oil washes (basically the same effect just takes longer to dry) and it works perfectly. There's zero lint and they are just the right density.
The absolute best way ive found to remove streaking grime is tp buy those “egg” shaped makeup sponges, cut off a section of the sponge, use that section to ‘wipe’ the model with mineral spirits absorbed into the sponge. It is sooooo easy and you have so much control and leaves no mess behind. You can also use the sponge and its malleability to get into the nooks and crannies of models. Its a really neat technique and im glad I discovered it on a whim!
Excellent video again Byron. I really need to get this stuff. I have not painted in such a long time now (got a new dog so...you know hide everything) Keep up the great work. I am still watching and love the stuff you do.
Great video. I don't think it was mentioned but I would recommend using an extractor and respirator/mask when airbrushing enamel paints. Your lungs and long term health will thank you.
I really would like to see something on pigments, I’ve been trying to dry brush the feet of my models to make them look dusty or dirty, but it just doesn’t look right, it’s easy when using some of the basing materials you just use that but others like the crackle paints you need a different effect and dry brushing isn’t cutting it for me
A fantastic video with great examples! Would you recommend using streaking grime only as a final touch on otherwise finished models like you did here, or would it work right after basecoating (as a sort of a wash/shade) and then highlighting with acrylics after that? Or does streaking grime mess with acrylic paints that are applied after it?
Either is fine mate, if you've got time you can kind of do both! Just remember to seal with a varnish, and you'll have no negatives to the 'during' version... It absolutely does infect paint after if unsealed, especially on day of application
One thing that was not covered in this video is that if you are airbrushing these kinds of paints you MUST wear some kind mask/respirator and have top notch ventilation. You do not want to inhale enamel paints so make sure and protect yourself and other people/pets in the area.
If you wear glasses, keeping the disposable cleaning cloths are a good product to wipe streaking grime enamels or oils off. They are designed not to leave bits of fluff.
Great video, quick question : Is a varnish necessary after removing the streaking grime and if so, can you just use munitorum or is there something else we should use over the enamel that is remaining?
Not 100%... As you remove it from the raised areas, and they are what gets touched. You could use any normal varnish, they will darken it a little though, generally people use matte, use other (monutorum) if you want to keep a bit of shine.
Thanks dude, it depends how much you remove (if it's only in the recesses). A light airbrush spray would be ideal, as it will *slightly* alter the shade of the grime/finish, and I would go for a matte. If it's only in the recesses you could maybe get away without one, especially as you'll have varnishes pre-grime.
I'd love to a see a video on different coloured fabrics and cloaks. I'm painting some Sequitors that I want to have vidid emerald green cloaks, it'd be nice to see how you do different colours and if different colours are better with different approaches.
Love using makeup sponges for this the little triangle ones for big surfaces or if i want to leave more of the grime/wash on or the "eye shadow applicator" small sponge sticks sort of like Q tips but with a soft sponge material -almost identical to the glasses cleaner material - also not too expensive
Great video and thanks for the update on what is happening with the channel. On the technique, I found leaving an oil washed mini over night was way too long as it became very difficult to remove. I also didn't like the gloss finish and had to matt varnish after.
I’m going to do the same on a model which was dry brushed with Leadbelcher, on a primed black model. Do you suggest I should do a lighter dry brush of another metallic, such as Stormhost Silver, then put streaking grime on there?
Just one thing to bear in mind with all enamel products (appart from the little tins of humbrol enamel paint, those are indestructible) they have a shelf life, if not used up then after a while they will start to settle quite quickly, meaning you're going to have to keep going back and stirring them up, I find that mixing with a length of sprue or something is quicker and easier than taking the cap on and off to keep shaking the bottle. Also, Ammo by Mig make something called streaming grime too, in case of questions, yes, it is the same as the ak stuff, those two ranges are pretty much identical for enamel washes
Hi Byron, I own most of your Brush Brush's but when will the Muff Brush's be available as my wife does not want to help me out with painting my models any more :) , love the foo par you made.
Hi, thank you very much for this detailed video ! Do you know if the product streaking grime from mig work the same way ? (A.MIG-1203) I just tried it, the paint doesn't seem to mix with the odourless white spirit, and I'm removing some underlying acrylic paint. I don't know if the problem is my technique (too much pressure), the streaking grime paint or the odourless white spirit
The spirit you are using will strip underlying paint if you don't seal it with varnish (and yes more pressure: more removal). The MiG products are very similar yeah :)
So dope. Would love to see an Executioner tutorial. Mind you, you've done so many metallic marine armor videos, although I'd love to know if the gold hack you use with the yellow glaze over the silver dry brush would work with a bronze/copper sort of colour.
Great vid my man! I'm assembling a load of Stormcast as a new army project to do over Christmas and I'm thinking I will use some kind of enamel to give some contrast against a super bright armour. Do you have experience of how streaking grime compares to other enamel washes? I was thinking of using a black Mig Productions enamel wash for the silver plate. I imagine these washes are maybe weaker than streaking grime but an evening of Internet searching isn't turning up any answers! I'm going to build and paint a bunch of Azyr terrain clean and crisp, and then use grime, the green slime washes and so on to make it dingy as if it was abandoned in Ghur.
I wonder if the streaking grime issue has been resolved, apparently people were getting different coloured streaking grime with the same SKU number! AK didn't really seem to want to comment on the situation.
To be fair, GW's is meant to be satin, but it's close enough to gloss to be fine, it's also not volatile, and works fairly well in different conditions, which is always my main concern with out of the can spray-varnishes.
Another brilliant vid, must have watched hours of them in the last week or so. I'm starting a Thousand Sons army after a very long hiatus from the hobby and would love a "How to" from you if you're taking suggestions.
At the end of the process would the model be left to completely dry and then a standard varnish applied as the final step? If I understand it correctly the product will still remain with no extra loss when being handled?
hello! thks for the vid and the work!!! Amazingly useful for beginner like me. Really instructive. Maybe personal preferences but i would do an edit with just some chosen moments of the process on the babycarrier instead of a quiet long fast forward. fast forward feels quiet hard on the eyes and brain ( in particular long one). Have a nice day!
Just started my warhammer hobby, can I paint over the top of this e.g. once ive varnished, grimmed and removed some with thinner? If i wanted to hightlight more bits etc.
All the content is amazing always learning something new from every vid … if your looking for music ideas bonobo is a chill vibe that would work haha and still waiting for an Artis opus store in Australia 😎
Those pieces are breathtaking, Byron. Now, a question, that leads me onto a suggestion; I was wondering if a thick oil wash could deliver up similar results and it started me thinking. As there are often many ways to achieve a given effect, comparison videos that cover all the ways to do an effect [from simplest to expert, highlighting time and cost : effectiveness] would make a fascinating series. I know comparison vids have been done on your channel - but a comprehensive, 'many ways to skin-a-cat' series would be instructional for newbies, especially, as to building techniques and collecting materials to shape their hobby experience. I have a bias toward 'budget' in this and I think that could be the hook to hang the vids on. [I struggle to achieve consistent dry brush effects, though i work from small figures up to large artworks and can't afford expensive brushes across the whole range of my projects but I wonder how much a good brush could help]
Oil wash will give you basically the same effect, it just takes longer to dry. I use oils myself. They're a lot more versatile since you can use them for actual painting as well, and you can thin them to your desired thickness. Enamels often come pre-thinned and they dry quicker though.
@@fundip533 cheers, Nevver, sometimes I think 'convenience' products may harm learning & technique. [Where would be the fun in buying a completed model, paint and all?]
I see you are using Streaking Grime on models that are supposed to look metallic. How would this work on a model or vehicle painted in a specific color - for instance a Space Wolf rhino painted in a lighter blue?
Great vid, great info as always! And, further/deeper info would be great, and into other fun products. There's a bunch of great enamel products/producers out there after all. What would be nice, is if you'd put some side by side comparison in the end. Before applying streaking grime on one side and after on the other. To really show off how big the difference is. The side by side shots is something that's missed in the YT videos from 99.9% of all content creators. :( And ye, ofc one can scroll back and forth, but side-by-side makes it so much easier to spot the changes. And ofc it doesn't have to be limited to SG videos (-: And a big GZ to the winners!
The same stuff I always use :). Middle/deep clean would be: Run through thinner Soak a little while and run through foaming cleaner/cleaner mix Flush cleaner Lube (necessary because the foaming cleaner is *strong* and strips the lubricant properties from most liquid cleaners)
I normally use those little make up sponges get a pack of them super cheap from amazon and can get in all the small areas like the ear buds just without the fibers being left behind.
@@ArtisOpus It was a nice little human moment, I'm glad you kept it in. I miss things like that being regular in folks YT content! Hope you're keeping well, thanks for all the guidance and tips since the channel launched. 🤜
Have you shaken thoroughly dude? (I mean *very* thoroughly!) The brown settles and the green floats :) Please reply via another comment, YT is awful for notifications for ongoing conversations!
Don’t know if I missed it but do you need revarnish again after it’s was finished to fix the effect and prevent more being rubbed off by handling? And if not does it matte any previous gloss varnish enough to not need a matte coat after?
It depends if it's getting handled, and how much you remove (is it all in the recesses?). It does knock the gloss out from the under-layer significantly, but you could still matte it out if that's your preferred look (ultra-matte from AK, for example, if you like it *really* matte)
One plus for AKs ultra Matt its incredible stuff. I’m mainly a scale modeller but I have used it on my small warhammer army. I would always varnish after using any enamels and oils though. It does eventually get pretty tough but it can take days to weeks to fully cure.
Yeah I can definitely see the benefits of just buying a product like this and using it instead of mixing oil washes yourself. I'll stick to latter though since I'm one of those nutjobs who basically can't use a paint without mixing it with something else first so might as well mix oil washes specifically for whatever I'm working on while at it. I've also got couple premixed ones in a dropper bottle such as burnt sienna/black mix that I use when I'm working with "generic steel" and funnily enough that one basically creates an effect that's very similar to streaking grime so I could have just saved some time there.
Makes sense man, nothing stopping you from adding stuff to Grime, or Grime to your stuff! I'm a real lover of customisation (try some purple in there! 🥰)
definitely gonna try streaking grime for my slaves to darkness army (when I get there lol). How would you go about OSL with the streaking grime? would it change how you'd tackle it?
From my experience using enamel washes like streaking grime I would say if possible leave any osl or anything you want to be brighter until after you've done your enamel wash. As you can see from the video it gives everything a bit of a dark filter so it'll just kill any brightness you've painted in. With enamel I would leave it longer to dry than you would normal acrylics but after that you can paint over it just fine.
Did you notice AK changed the "original" streaking grime recently? Unfortunatelly I popped a new pot open mid big project a couple of days ago to find it's a different tone (not so sepia).. And I did not mix my pots up, I do know the difference between them and have been using streaking grime for years. Anyone else purchased and popped a new one open recently?
Very similar experience for me. I was aware that they had different kinds and was always sure to get the base "for all vehicles" and the formula now has a green tone.
18:21 DON'T use enamels on push fit models without gluing them. Its a well documented problem that the paint can flow into the gaps between the parts and then have nowhere to evaporate. The solvent eventually eats through the plastic making it very brittle. I think a lot of enamel washes like this even say "not suitable for push fit models" on the bottle
This is a thing?! If so, amazing feedback
You could just pull off the pieces that aren't glued and do them separately. After it's evaporated, just push them back on. Seems pretty self explanatory.
Really appreciate the way you describe the more technical aspects eg: how the cloth works. Your make a great teacher.
Thanks, Matty! It's always a fine line between fast and in depth, so I appreciate your appreciation :D
I’m not sure if I missed it, but I would have loved a side-by-side comparison of pre and post streaking grime. Thanks for the vid : )
This is a very good point, Himle made it during the live, I'll make sure to include in the future
*Please note - When not talking to the camera I always mask up while airbrushing enamels, I should have made this clear in the video, be sensible, peeps, and look after yourselves!*
Have you used streaking grime. any tips of your own? What product should we try out in a future video? elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/ak-interactive/ak-interactive-streaking-grime-x6
I would have liked to see a "side-by-side" picture of the finished model vs. the same finished model after streaking grime. I see that it looks great but a before and after picture would help me to understand how streaking grime reacts. Thanks for the video though, I just ordered a bottle of streaking grime. Thanks for all your hard work.
@@fulgrum this was noted by Himle in our live, you're entirely correct, it'll feature next time we do something like this!
found this video on it ruclips.net/video/E6LIV9ChZ-8/видео.html
For all the people who want to keep their sanity: use a brush soaked in white spirit/odourless thinner. You will get more control than a piece of tissue.
It's not that simple... this will run into the recesses and carry with it. I used a cloth for a reason.
Nothing wrong with brush methods, they're just a different :)
@@ArtisOpus ear buds work very well too
I am also a fan of makeup sponges....ridiculously cheap and easy.
@@jamieott3832 we'll have to try then out!
Perfect timing with this video. Thank you!!
You're most welcome! Enjoy :)
Been using streaking grime for awhile now but that cloth method is a total game changer. Funnily enough i had one sitting on my table next to me. Wasnt for model use but now it is. Thanks for the video!
realy liked the music, gave the video a space-chill vibe and of course the tutorial was great :)
Thanks bud, took me forever to find one I liked! Ended up trawling through playlists twitch streamers use :)
Will there be a streaking grime “streaks” vid in the future. That’s a technique in itself. Great results all over though. Never thought of trying that.
Absolutely, if people would like a follow up I guess it'll give people a more rounded idea of AK's non acrylic products, good idea!
Duncan Rhode's "Paint Pallid Hand Death guard" has a good short segment on rust streaks. This channel probably will give a more focused video.
Can recommend IT/ technician dusting swabs for this kind of application. They are an open cell foam swab on a rigid plastic handle. No lint, absorbent to a degree but won't drink up copious amount of thinner and come in a wide range of sizes. Also much cheaper than 'hobby' swabs
This sounds like an absolute winner of a suggestion, thanks so much, dude!
This video was hands down amazing... just great advice and fantastic examples.. real depth to the explanations so everything is super clear.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the feedback 🤩
Another great vid, nice to see you back Byron!
Thanks dude, nice to be back! Big love
picked up a bottle after watching this for use with my 40k admech and knights, had been debating for a while if i felt confident enough to start working with enamels but this helped a lot
Yes, it'll be perfect, let us know how it goes dude, it's a wonderful technique!
Superb video Byron, great to see you back in the painter's seat, and great choice of topic!
Glad you enjoyed it Tom! :) Happy to be back too! I've been really busy but promise to catch up with new uploads!
use triangular makeup sponges to remove! can be super useful for big areas and also for stippling or adding texture once they're a little wet. They also have zero fibers so they're great
This has been mentioned enough that it has to be a thing. I will be making a trip to Superdrug :D
Also eye shadow disposable sponges both are great
Best video on streaking grime I’ve seen
Great to hear! Thanks so much, bud😊
Learning to use filters and blending with enamels or oils is always great. Really awesome scale modeling technique to use on miniature painting. Great video, thanks.
They're so fun and fast, too! You're welcome, dude :)
Need to get me some of those "brush brushes" ...🤣 love this, I've been experimenting with rust streaks from AK,to some success, using it sparingly alongside my own dark sepia wash ..thanks for the tips
My pleasure, dude :).
Brush Brushes are special, as are 'hairy brush brushes'!
I had just picked up a bottle of streaking grim about 2 weeks back. Was hesitant but you have added to my confidence, thank you!
Great video, more tutorials on the AK interactive products and on how to use powders would be really appreciated.
Excellent man, on the list! Powders are near the top for sure :)
Super helpful video, I totally want to try this! I’ve seen a video where somebody used an old piece of T-shirt to clean it off
Got my Series D, pad and texture palette couple of weeks ago. Your videos keeps me company, and they're always a very wholesome moment for me. Waiting for the next one.
I'll definitely try out streaking grime on my next project :)
Kind words, thanks so much, man!
Great video! Thanks for the advice and hopefully this will add the extra wow factor to my Custodian golden boys! 👍👏
All the support to you and your company as you guys work on new products. I'd love to see the differences between the different streaking grimes, and maybe some other enamel washes as well. I use an enamel wash for wood from AK, it's pure magic.
Thanks, my dude! We'll pop your request on the list :)
Gret vid,, thanks for sharing. This looks like a really fun technique to try!
Excellent tutorial, really enjoyed the video, keep up the great work
Glad you think so, dude, thanks so much!
I gotta try this on my Custodes for some more contrast. Great vid.
Thanks for this. Ive had a couple bottles of this stuff sitting ominously on my paint rack for a while now...
A couple of other people have suggested makeup sponges as a removal tool and I would second that
I will 100% give this a bash! Thanks :)
@@ArtisOpus I've tried that myself, but so far the white spirit has destroyed the sponge almost right away!
I use makeup sponges for removing oil washes (basically the same effect just takes longer to dry) and it works perfectly. There's zero lint and they are just the right density.
oh wonderful, i was literally just about to start looking for info on how to use this stuff, marvelous
The absolute best way ive found to remove streaking grime is tp buy those “egg” shaped makeup sponges, cut off a section of the sponge, use that section to ‘wipe’ the model with mineral spirits absorbed into the sponge.
It is sooooo easy and you have so much control and leaves no mess behind. You can also use the sponge and its malleability to get into the nooks and crannies of models. Its a really neat technique and im glad I discovered it on a whim!
Amazing tip, thank you
Always love your vids, great low stress vibe and nice and simply shot. Keep up the great work!
Excellent video again Byron. I really need to get this stuff. I have not painted in such a long time now (got a new dog so...you know hide everything)
Keep up the great work. I am still watching and love the stuff you do.
Hey man :) you'd love it, I'm sure! Have fun with the new doggo sure he more than makes up for it!
@@ArtisOpus Does element sell it?
I would like to see before/after comparison of the models you grimmed. Not only the end results.
Noted, it's an obvious omission on our parts, will feature in future vids :)
Brilliant vid Byron. You have successfully increased my EG shopping cart 😂
:D it'll be worth it!
Great video. I don't think it was mentioned but I would recommend using an extractor and respirator/mask when airbrushing enamel paints. Your lungs and long term health will thank you.
Edited timestamps and pinned comment, thanks dude :)
I really would like to see something on pigments, I’ve been trying to dry brush the feet of my models to make them look dusty or dirty, but it just doesn’t look right, it’s easy when using some of the basing materials you just use that but others like the crackle paints you need a different effect and dry brushing isn’t cutting it for me
Great call, this is going straight to the top few in our list!
A fantastic video with great examples! Would you recommend using streaking grime only as a final touch on otherwise finished models like you did here, or would it work right after basecoating (as a sort of a wash/shade) and then highlighting with acrylics after that? Or does streaking grime mess with acrylic paints that are applied after it?
Either is fine mate, if you've got time you can kind of do both! Just remember to seal with a varnish, and you'll have no negatives to the 'during' version... It absolutely does infect paint after if unsealed, especially on day of application
Tho I don’t use streaking grime, I have enjoyed watching this vid. Well done on the subs🎉🎉🎉
Thanks, dude! Not tempted? It's an amazing tool to have in your arsenal
One thing that was not covered in this video is that if you are airbrushing these kinds of paints you MUST wear some kind mask/respirator and have top notch ventilation. You do not want to inhale enamel paints so make sure and protect yourself and other people/pets in the area.
Absolutely correct, I'll make sure to remind people that I would if I wasn't talking
If you wear glasses, keeping the disposable cleaning cloths are a good product to wipe streaking grime enamels or oils off. They are designed not to leave bits of fluff.
Bet they're perfect! Good tip :)
Great video, quick question : Is a varnish necessary after removing the streaking grime and if so, can you just use munitorum or is there something else we should use over the enamel that is remaining?
Not 100%... As you remove it from the raised areas, and they are what gets touched.
You could use any normal varnish, they will darken it a little though, generally people use matte, use other (monutorum) if you want to keep a bit of shine.
Might willing to use this technique for my Death Korps
Absolutely, they'd be perfect1
Eye makeup sponges are nice and soft for removing the grime
Noice! This sounds perfect, I need to get some.
Great Tutorial! Would you varnish models again when they are complete for gaming? Thanks!
Thanks dude, it depends how much you remove (if it's only in the recesses). A light airbrush spray would be ideal, as it will *slightly* alter the shade of the grime/finish, and I would go for a matte.
If it's only in the recesses you could maybe get away without one, especially as you'll have varnishes pre-grime.
Excellent, thanks so much!
I'd love to a see a video on different coloured fabrics and cloaks. I'm painting some Sequitors that I want to have vidid emerald green cloaks, it'd be nice to see how you do different colours and if different colours are better with different approaches.
Love using makeup sponges for this the little triangle ones for big surfaces or if i want to leave more of the grime/wash on or the "eye shadow applicator" small sponge sticks sort of like Q tips but with a soft sponge material -almost identical to the glasses cleaner material - also not too expensive
Great video and thanks for the update on what is happening with the channel. On the technique, I found leaving an oil washed mini over night was way too long as it became very difficult to remove. I also didn't like the gloss finish and had to matt varnish after.
I’m going to do the same on a model which was dry brushed with Leadbelcher, on a primed black model. Do you suggest I should do a lighter dry brush of another metallic, such as Stormhost Silver, then put streaking grime on there?
Super cool! I am a bit confused, in the video you said drying times from 20 mins to 45. How long would you recommend after doing it here?
I would suggest about 20 Minutes. After 45 it has become pretty dry and Sometimes Harder to get of.
Thanks, great vid
Glad you liked it! Thanks buddy!😊
Just one thing to bear in mind with all enamel products (appart from the little tins of humbrol enamel paint, those are indestructible) they have a shelf life, if not used up then after a while they will start to settle quite quickly, meaning you're going to have to keep going back and stirring them up, I find that mixing with a length of sprue or something is quicker and easier than taking the cap on and off to keep shaking the bottle. Also, Ammo by Mig make something called streaming grime too, in case of questions, yes, it is the same as the ak stuff, those two ranges are pretty much identical for enamel washes
Hi Byron, I own most of your Brush Brush's but when will the Muff Brush's be available as my wife does not want to help me out with painting my models any more :) , love the foo par you made.
Great video. I would like to see the SG on flesh. I use oil for the GD style, but I will play with SG. Thanks!
Hi, thank you very much for this detailed video ! Do you know if the product streaking grime from mig work the same way ? (A.MIG-1203)
I just tried it, the paint doesn't seem to mix with the odourless white spirit, and I'm removing some underlying acrylic paint. I don't know if the problem is my technique (too much pressure), the streaking grime paint or the odourless white spirit
The spirit you are using will strip underlying paint if you don't seal it with varnish (and yes more pressure: more removal). The MiG products are very similar yeah :)
Thanks for pointing out that people can use a bigger muff if they have one :)
;) TIP #3 WILL SHOCK YOU! 😲 😅
So dope. Would love to see an Executioner tutorial. Mind you, you've done so many metallic marine armor videos, although I'd love to know if the gold hack you use with the yellow glaze over the silver dry brush would work with a bronze/copper sort of colour.
Sorry off topic but which color should I use instead of huldra blue if I can't buy scale 75 color? Great video :D
Quick question here--are you fully painting the model before streaking grime? or are you letting streaking grime do your shading and recesses?
You can do either, if it's the latter you just have to allow/plan for it, I like both methods :)
Great vid my man!
I'm assembling a load of Stormcast as a new army project to do over Christmas and I'm thinking I will use some kind of enamel to give some contrast against a super bright armour.
Do you have experience of how streaking grime compares to other enamel washes? I was thinking of using a black Mig Productions enamel wash for the silver plate. I imagine these washes are maybe weaker than streaking grime but an evening of Internet searching isn't turning up any answers!
I'm going to build and paint a bunch of Azyr terrain clean and crisp, and then use grime, the green slime washes and so on to make it dingy as if it was abandoned in Ghur.
I might have missed it, how do you clean that cloth your using? wash it with mineral spirits?
I don't really, once it's dry on there it doesn't matter :)
I wonder if the streaking grime issue has been resolved, apparently people were getting different coloured streaking grime with the same SKU number! AK didn't really seem to want to comment on the situation.
Great video! May I ask what gloss varnish you recommend if you’re not using an airbrush? Is there a good rattle version you suggest?
To be fair, GW's is meant to be satin, but it's close enough to gloss to be fine, it's also not volatile, and works fairly well in different conditions, which is always my main concern with out of the can spray-varnishes.
@@ArtisOpus I just find it’s bad on metallic finishes - really muted the shine down
Where do you get the hard cotton buds from?
Another brilliant vid, must have watched hours of them in the last week or so. I'm starting a Thousand Sons army after a very long hiatus from the hobby and would love a "How to" from you if you're taking suggestions.
At the end of the process would the model be left to completely dry and then a standard varnish applied as the final step? If I understand it correctly the product will still remain with no extra loss when being handled?
Yeah bud, varnish for safety, especially if it'll get handled :)
I got my first big model after getting your brushes. Any chance on a guide to paint a black Stardrake?
hello! thks for the vid and the work!!! Amazingly useful for beginner like me. Really instructive. Maybe personal preferences but i would do an edit with just some chosen moments of the process on the babycarrier instead of a quiet long fast forward. fast forward feels quiet hard on the eyes and brain ( in particular long one). Have a nice day!
Just started my warhammer hobby, can I paint over the top of this e.g. once ive varnished, grimmed and removed some with thinner? If i wanted to hightlight more bits etc.
Good question, on the raised areas you removed it from absolutely, you might want to varnish lightly again to lock all areas though
@@ArtisOpus perfect, thanks for the reply. Love the channel and videos, a massive help for a new person like me!
Yaaaas! Love a good grim dark vid!
All the content is amazing always learning something new from every vid … if your looking for music ideas bonobo is a chill vibe that would work haha and still waiting for an Artis opus store in Australia 😎
I would love to see more oils applications. Different colors (how would black look etc)
How long do you wait for the streaking grime to dry before starting to clean it up?
20minutes minimum dude
Can You then acrylic varnish the miniature when they have had streaking grime and/or white spirit used on them?
Sure, it'll lock whatever you've done so far.
The last two products you used, which were they?
Those pieces are breathtaking, Byron. Now, a question, that leads me onto a suggestion; I was wondering if a thick oil wash could deliver up similar results and it started me thinking. As there are often many ways to achieve a given effect, comparison videos that cover all the ways to do an effect [from simplest to expert, highlighting time and cost : effectiveness] would make a fascinating series. I know comparison vids have been done on your channel - but a comprehensive, 'many ways to skin-a-cat' series would be instructional for newbies, especially, as to building techniques and collecting materials to shape their hobby experience. I have a bias toward 'budget' in this and I think that could be the hook to hang the vids on. [I struggle to achieve consistent dry brush effects, though i work from small figures up to large artworks and can't afford expensive brushes across the whole range of my projects but I wonder how much a good brush could help]
Oil wash will give you basically the same effect, it just takes longer to dry. I use oils myself. They're a lot more versatile since you can use them for actual painting as well, and you can thin them to your desired thickness. Enamels often come pre-thinned and they dry quicker though.
@@fundip533 cheers, Nevver, sometimes I think 'convenience' products may harm learning & technique. [Where would be the fun in buying a completed model, paint and all?]
Where in the USA can you buy this version of streaking grime? Amazon seems to have have every version except this one.
Reckon this will work on Star Wars legion ? B1 and b2 battle droids ? Base coat - varnish - grime - dry brush
100%, dude! I'd maybe pop the drybrush *pre* grime though, you can always varnish, and add another post, if you wish :)
Did you highlight these models before adding streaking grime?
Yes, they were 'finished' models :)
I see you are using Streaking Grime on models that are supposed to look metallic. How would this work on a model or vehicle painted in a specific color - for instance a Space Wolf rhino painted in a lighter blue?
It looks great dude, there's a few examples online and space wolves in particular seem to just work brilliantly
It's up to you how much you want to leave on. Varnish pre. And it's up to you how much removal :)
Great vid, great info as always!
And, further/deeper info would be great, and into other fun products. There's a bunch of great enamel products/producers out there after all.
What would be nice, is if you'd put some side by side comparison in the end. Before applying streaking grime on one side and after on the other. To really show off how big the difference is. The side by side shots is something that's missed in the YT videos from 99.9% of all content creators. :( And ye, ofc one can scroll back and forth, but side-by-side makes it so much easier to spot the changes. And ofc it doesn't have to be limited to SG videos (-:
And a big GZ to the winners!
Devlin Mud is a texture paint, my friend. Can't imagine anyone coats their whole model in it. Did you mean Agrax Earthshade?
Hi, what thinner did you use instead of white spirits? Thank you for showing your techniques. Love it
I am using white spirits, just an odorless artist's version :)
If just using a thinner it literally doesn't matter. Use whatever one you have:)
Thank you 🙏🏻
What do you clean the airbrush with after using Streaking Grime in it ?
The same stuff I always use :).
Middle/deep clean would be:
Run through thinner
Soak a little while and run through foaming cleaner/cleaner mix
Flush cleaner
Lube (necessary because the foaming cleaner is *strong* and strips the lubricant properties from most liquid cleaners)
I normally use those little make up sponges get a pack of them super cheap from amazon and can get in all the small areas like the ear buds just without the fibers being left behind.
You're not the first to suggest this man, they sound like a must-try. I'll be picking some up for sure
Any idea where I can find a suitable muff for application? Thanks for the giggles Lord Byron.
😅😅 such an 'uhh what?!' Couldn't believe it myself:)
@@ArtisOpus It was a nice little human moment, I'm glad you kept it in. I miss things like that being regular in folks YT content! Hope you're keeping well, thanks for all the guidance and tips since the channel launched. 🤜
I have never heard of this before this video. I have never seen this in the United States, so where do we find it over here?
Unsure dude, I live in the UK :) www.google.com/search?q=buy+streaking+grime
Element ships worldwide though, if you can't find it/
Could you advise please as i bought the same but mine has greenish shade rather than brown like on your guide? Did you mix it with something?
Have you shaken thoroughly dude? (I mean *very* thoroughly!) The brown settles and the green floats :)
Please reply via another comment, YT is awful for notifications for ongoing conversations!
I read a post from a few months back on the grimdark compendium that the product has changed colour
Don’t know if I missed it but do you need revarnish again after it’s was finished to fix the effect and prevent more being rubbed off by handling? And if not does it matte any previous gloss varnish enough to not need a matte coat after?
It depends if it's getting handled, and how much you remove (is it all in the recesses?).
It does knock the gloss out from the under-layer significantly, but you could still matte it out if that's your preferred look (ultra-matte from AK, for example, if you like it *really* matte)
One plus for AKs ultra Matt its incredible stuff. I’m mainly a scale modeller but I have used it on my small warhammer army.
I would always varnish after using any enamels and oils though. It does eventually get pretty tough but it can take days to weeks to fully cure.
Get the Beachhead Wargaming and Hobby Show on your list of places to attend - Best hobby show in the south by far.
Will this technique work with the AK crusted rust deposit stuff?
Curious how this stuff compares to army painter dipping cans, which can be applied by brush and then removed with white spirit
Yeah I can definitely see the benefits of just buying a product like this and using it instead of mixing oil washes yourself.
I'll stick to latter though since I'm one of those nutjobs who basically can't use a paint without mixing it with something else first so might as well mix oil washes specifically for whatever I'm working on while at it.
I've also got couple premixed ones in a dropper bottle such as burnt sienna/black mix that I use when I'm working with "generic steel" and funnily enough that one basically creates an effect that's very similar to streaking grime so I could have just saved some time there.
Makes sense man, nothing stopping you from adding stuff to Grime, or Grime to your stuff! I'm a real lover of customisation (try some purple in there! 🥰)
Hey, would one be able to stipple/ drybrush oil-paints or is that just not possible at all? Thx, great vid again. Cheers ;) :)
I do it, gives a smoother result then dry brushing with acrylics
I find make-up sponges the best tool to remove it. Give it a shot.
Thanks for the recommendation, bud, a few people mentioned it so definitely will give it a go :)
Any final varnish over the streaking grime or is it pretty durable?
definitely gonna try streaking grime for my slaves to darkness army (when I get there lol). How would you go about OSL with the streaking grime? would it change how you'd tackle it?
From my experience using enamel washes like streaking grime I would say if possible leave any osl or anything you want to be brighter until after you've done your enamel wash. As you can see from the video it gives everything a bit of a dark filter so it'll just kill any brightness you've painted in. With enamel I would leave it longer to dry than you would normal acrylics but after that you can paint over it just fine.
Would doing something similar with brightly coloured Inks etc replicate internal glow?
I think zatcaskagoon miniatures invented this technique. He really is a master of grimdark mixed media techniques.
He is amazing, love his stuff, and style, and practicality!
Did you notice AK changed the "original" streaking grime recently? Unfortunatelly I popped a new pot open mid big project a couple of days ago to find it's a different tone (not so sepia).. And I did not mix my pots up, I do know the difference between them and have been using streaking grime for years. Anyone else purchased and popped a new one open recently?
Very similar experience for me. I was aware that they had different kinds and was always sure to get the base "for all vehicles" and the formula now has a green tone.