Great video. I'm a new technician just out of hvac school. Been working 6 months doing installs and service calls...struggling the whole time with low voltage controls...until I found your channel. Now it all makes sense. You filled in the information that most schools do not teach. Thanks.
What school did you go to? Was it a 2 year course? I am taking a fast tracked 2 year course that covers everything in 9 months and i feel like they are leaving alot out.
Mike, all techs need to be open minded to situations like this and diagnose accordingly. Having tunnel vision thinking that white, yellow, blue wires etc only land on specific terminals is a recipe for disaster. Thanks for another phenomenal video. You are one of only a few content creators who understand your audience.
I love that you stress the importance of understanding the logic and function of the circuitry and what happens in the system when you short R to the other terminals, rather than blindly following color codes. Awesome work brother!
I just started as a maintenance tech. Your videos, including this one are all extremely helpful. HVAC can get pretty complicated, especially the electrical aspects, thank you for sharing this information!
Spaghetti, capellini, angel hair, and fettuccine! 🤔💬💬💬, or was it fettu-hair, spaghettini, capetti, and Angelina (Jolie 😍)? Your clarifying ability is unmatched in the social media realm. Excellent content and delivery as usual. Great to see you back in the groove! (Been awhile) Any teaser produced and prepped for Blue Collar?? (BTW, nice to see that you have a pretty substantial mop under the cap!😂) Until next time..... 🤜🏽💥🤛🏽
Very good to point this stuff out. One advantage of using more strands than you need is the option down the line to swap wires as an easy fix for a short or otherwise bad wire. In that case, you may end up with black on R, orange on W, and so on, even if it was wired "standard" on install. And that's not even considering any weird splices you may have. I know of one in our area using pink on G at the tstat that splices to yellow at a junction and then goes to the air handler. I've had a call where somebody tried to wire their own new tstat, and it wouldn't come on bc they used standard color coding to wire it, but the old tstat used black for common instead of blue. Abiding the color coding is a good enough practice where feasible, but don't expect stuff you work on to be following it. Confirm it first.
Awesome! Chat: O/B what yours preference? I seen orange on cooling and brown on heating in HP sometimes reversed, and I have seen brown as R on new install which makes sense in 50hz areas lol
I've worked HVAC in different parts of the country and I've seen a lot of variations. On HPs I'll typically wire to the default position of the reversing valve. orange if default to heating, blue if default to cooling. I've seen brown used a lot for 2nd stage heat in the northeast, black for common and blue for 2nd stage cooling. But here in Indiana I see brown used for 2nd stage cooling, black as 2nd stage heat and blue as common. lol. so much for color codes.
Can you recommend a good thermostat that will work with a heat pump with gas secondary and air conditioning? I had 2 PRO1 w/Wi-Fi thermostats go bad on me because their contacts are junk. I am an electrician, and I kept having problems with O terminal getting around 16 volts and it was making the unit doing loud knocking. The configuration of the contacts on the PRO1 are junk, twice it happened to me Thanks
I've always used Honeywell T9s without much issues. Only thing with these is if you have any wires currently on W1 you'll want to move them to W2/Aux with the Honeywell. Leaving a wire on W1 on Honeywells will run the aux heat and AC simultaneously and will serve you a huge electric bill. Where are you reading 16v on O? At the stat, O term at the indoor unit or O on the defrost?
@@JerseyMikeHVAC O is defrost and we constantly kept hearing loud knocking noise sound like the reversing valve kicking in and out. Its a comfortmaker unit and only 1 year old, first time it did it the tech said it was bad thermostat. Well, it happened again, and I changed the thermostat again. On my 3rd thermostat and all were the PRO1 stats (they are junk) contact configuration from factory makes them junk. Thats why I asked. THANK YOU!!! for your reply, I was told by pro's you know your sh*t about it
@wireman7780 Another thing you can do is cut back a restrip all the O connections to clean copper in the indoor unit, stat and outdoor unit, and while you're at it, take the 2 O wires on the O terminal on the control board of the indoor unit are wire nut them directly together. That particular O terminal serves no purpose other than a junction point. I'm sure you already understand the whole point is to reduce any possible resistance at connection points possibly causing a voltage drop.
I've seen cases where the installer pulled 3 strands of 2 wire because they were out of 5 or 6 wire. 3 reds, 3 whites from the stat, and 2 wires from both the condenser and humidifier made for some interesting troubleshooting. 🤦
Great video. I'm a new technician just out of hvac school. Been working 6 months doing installs and service calls...struggling the whole time with low voltage controls...until I found your channel. Now it all makes sense. You filled in the information that most schools do not teach. Thanks.
Where are you located? I’m a new tech too, let’s share some knowledge.
What school did you go to? Was it a 2 year course? I am taking a fast tracked 2 year course that covers everything in 9 months and i feel like they are leaving alot out.
Mike, all techs need to be open minded to situations like this and diagnose accordingly. Having tunnel vision thinking that white, yellow, blue wires etc only land on specific terminals is a recipe for disaster. Thanks for another phenomenal video. You are one of only a few content creators who understand your audience.
I love that you stress the importance of understanding the logic and function of the circuitry and what happens in the system when you short R to the other terminals, rather than blindly following color codes. Awesome work brother!
I just started as a maintenance tech. Your videos, including this one are all extremely helpful. HVAC can get pretty complicated, especially the electrical aspects, thank you for sharing this information!
Spaghetti, capellini, angel hair, and fettuccine!
🤔💬💬💬, or was it fettu-hair, spaghettini, capetti, and Angelina (Jolie 😍)? Your clarifying ability is unmatched in the social media realm. Excellent content and delivery as usual. Great to see you back in the groove! (Been awhile) Any teaser produced and prepped for Blue Collar??
(BTW, nice to see that you have a pretty substantial mop under the cap!😂)
Until next time.....
🤜🏽💥🤛🏽
Very good to point this stuff out. One advantage of using more strands than you need is the option down the line to swap wires as an easy fix for a short or otherwise bad wire. In that case, you may end up with black on R, orange on W, and so on, even if it was wired "standard" on install. And that's not even considering any weird splices you may have. I know of one in our area using pink on G at the tstat that splices to yellow at a junction and then goes to the air handler.
I've had a call where somebody tried to wire their own new tstat, and it wouldn't come on bc they used standard color coding to wire it, but the old tstat used black for common instead of blue.
Abiding the color coding is a good enough practice where feasible, but don't expect stuff you work on to be following it. Confirm it first.
I am so proud of you Mike, you are such motivated and knowledgeable person!!! Keep up the good work 👍.
Super worth watching and interacting and furthering the cause of growing this learning forum. Thank you
💯 you have to understand what the wires do, thanks Mike
Awesome! Chat: O/B what yours preference? I seen orange on cooling and brown on heating in HP sometimes reversed, and I have seen brown as R on new install which makes sense in 50hz areas lol
I've worked HVAC in different parts of the country and I've seen a lot of variations. On HPs I'll typically wire to the default position of the reversing valve. orange if default to heating, blue if default to cooling. I've seen brown used a lot for 2nd stage heat in the northeast, black for common and blue for 2nd stage cooling. But here in Indiana I see brown used for 2nd stage cooling, black as 2nd stage heat and blue as common. lol. so much for color codes.
JUST ANOTHER AWESOME VIDEO FROM THE SMARTEST GUY ON THE NET
Can you recommend a good thermostat that will work with a heat pump with gas secondary and air conditioning? I had 2 PRO1 w/Wi-Fi thermostats go bad on me because their contacts are junk. I am an electrician, and I kept having problems with O terminal getting around 16 volts and it was making the unit doing loud knocking. The configuration of the contacts on the PRO1 are junk, twice it happened to me
Thanks
I've always used Honeywell T9s without much issues. Only thing with these is if you have any wires currently on W1 you'll want to move them to W2/Aux with the Honeywell. Leaving a wire on W1 on Honeywells will run the aux heat and AC simultaneously and will serve you a huge electric bill.
Where are you reading 16v on O? At the stat, O term at the indoor unit or O on the defrost?
@@JerseyMikeHVAC O is defrost and we constantly kept hearing loud knocking noise sound like the reversing valve kicking in and out. Its a comfortmaker unit and only 1 year old, first time it did it the tech said it was bad thermostat. Well, it happened again, and I changed the thermostat again. On my 3rd thermostat and all were the PRO1 stats (they are junk) contact configuration from factory makes them junk. Thats why I asked.
THANK YOU!!! for your reply, I was told by pro's you know your sh*t about it
@wireman7780 Another thing you can do is cut back a restrip all the O connections to clean copper in the indoor unit, stat and outdoor unit, and while you're at it, take the 2 O wires on the O terminal on the control board of the indoor unit are wire nut them directly together. That particular O terminal serves no purpose other than a junction point. I'm sure you already understand the whole point is to reduce any possible resistance at connection points possibly causing a voltage drop.
I've seen cases where the installer pulled 3 strands of 2 wire because they were out of 5 or 6 wire.
3 reds, 3 whites from the stat, and 2 wires from both the condenser and humidifier made for some interesting troubleshooting. 🤦
Yup! I've seen that too. Get 'er done with whatever is on the truck, I guess.
These videos are really easy to understand
Great video Mike.
Another great video
Awesome video
Thanks!
Wire doesn't know (or care) what color it is 😉
Yup. Gives zero Fs.