WJ Lift on a budget, BUDGET BOOST!
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- Опубликовано: 11 дек 2017
- In this episode I walk you through the steps to install a 2.5" Spacer lift from Supreme Suspension on our 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited WJ.
Facebook: BenTheJeepGuy/
Instagram: @JeepGuyBen
Twitter: @BenTheJeepGuy
Email: JeepGuyBen@gmail.com
Lift kit:
amzn.to/2t9FANP
Shocks:
RockAuto.com
OR
Front:
amzn.to/2Nv0aPA
Rear:
amzn.to/388V0Az 
Авто/Мото
The lift turned out awesome & Jeep looks so good! You made a really informative, helpful video here. You and your wonderful assistant did great haha.
Connor James thanks man! The compliments are much appreciated! This was actually my first video I ever edited. I tinkered with it for nearly a year before uploading! Haha I plan to do an update/review video of what our thoughts are of this setup after over a year of use! I saw you were a content creator so I gave you a follow! Thanks again! #JeepWave
@@BenTheJeepGuy hi Ben how are they holding up after a year?
@@genegornick5034 been great! If we didn’t want more lift I would keep them on but the Wife wants more lift so we are putting on a Zone 4” kit soon!
Great teamwork and good support of eachother. very nice informative video as well.
PunisherPrime81 your comments are much appreciated! I’m still trying to install her with the Jeep “itch” but it’s going very slowly lol
This video was super helpful. I’ve installed three leveling kits on XJs and recently picked up a stock height WJ. Followed these steps and dropping the track bar and sway bar drop links definitely makes it way easier. Definitely recommend using some coil compressors for those last few inches. Thanks again!
Man I am so glad to hear you found this helpful! I literally made this video because when I was getting ready to install our kit, I looked for a video to brief myself on the process, though I would have figured it out anyways, I wanted to see if there were tips or tricks, or just some basic things that apply to only this Jeep that I should know. Nothing was out there so I wanted to provide that for others that might be looking too. To have someone comment and tell me it helped them, makes the time and effort I put into the video, worth it! I really do do this to help out people like yourself. Sure, RUclips famous would be cool haha but I really just wanted to help some people out.
As for the coil compressors, I use them only when I absolutely have to. They can be dangerous and I have seen a friend have to go to the hospital because one slipped off and cut him really bad. One trick I didn’t apply when I was trying to get the coil spring in, when its close but not quite there, put the jack under the opposite side of the axle and pump up the jack a few times for that side. Lifting the opposite side of the axle can push the side you are working on, down some more. Too much lift from the jack and the other side will lift with it so you just have to pump the jack a few times and then see if it will go in, if not, a little more lift from the jack and see what happens. I’ll do anything I can to avoid coil compressors.
I need to send you guys a Jeep Couple Shirt! Great video..I'll be doing this over the weekend
Thanks! Glad you liked it! Of course we didn’t do this to get anything in return but hey, who could say no to Jeep shirts! Lol
Just installed the Rough Country budget boost on my 2002 WJ, your video was awesome in helping do the installation! Thank You!👍
Aw man that’s so awesome the video was helpful for ya!
If you post any pictures on IG, tag me so I can see the finished product! @JeepGuyBen
@@BenTheJeepGuy I sure will! My bottom spring seats were destroyed so I’ll be replacing those and will film and post pics.
@@rcsimmons85 yeah, after doing so many WJs and seeing how bad all the coil isolators are when I tear one down, I just started ordered all 8 whenever I do a lift kit now. Just makes for a cleaner install.
Kudos to the lady for jumping in there and getting after the rear spring!
My wife says thank you!
You guys are so cute together, what an excellent assistant! The highlight was when she was practically hanging from the pry bar, lol 😆
Thank you! I love having her out there with me, she is so eager to learn and always asking questions! It’s not her natural interest but she is really trying to learn and understand! That’s all I can ask for at the end of the day 😊 but thank you for the kind words, she enjoys reading them!
Great video, so nice to have your wife help, she is a keeper
Mike Bravek thank you! This was actually the first video I ever shot, took me about a year to edit it together because I wanted it to be just right and I was learning how to edit videos again, hadn’t done anything like that since high school and we still used VHS tapes back then! 😬 It’s nice to have her out there with me!
Great Job Guys!! Really Thoughtful of You Guys to share such a Wonderful Mod!! Saftey Suggestion: Always put on protective wear: for eyes and hands. And, use your body weight to either break or tighten those lug nuts. Much more safe and less strain on your person. Once again, Thanks for Sharing!!
Thanks! I do try to take as many safety measures as possible but you know, you get to working and filming so... try my best but sometimes there are a few exceptions! I appreciate you watching!
Never mind I just watched your whole video, question answered. Thanks for the video it's awesome and I'll be doing the same.
Looks great
Turned out really well 👍
Thank you!
Great video thanks for the help!!!!
Finally got everything complete on my 03. Pretty satisfied
Nice Jeep I wanna do the same to mine
Thanks for the help
carlos torres happy you found the video helpful! It’s a great way to get the Jeep a little higher! Hit me up if you have any questions!
Looks great👍
Mario Lopez thank you! Make sure to subscribe, I’ll have a new lift kit video up in the next couple of months! This time we are doing a Zone 4” kit on our new 2002 Overland!
A real easy way to get the rear springs in again with the spacers without having to do battle with them. Just take your jack and lift one end of the axle, the other end will be forced down. You will not have to fight with it all, slides right in. Take advantage of the articulation of a live axle.
charlie dee oh I am all to familiar with that little trick! Haha I actually just used that trick this past weekend doing a 3” Toytec lift kit on a 4th Gen 4Runner. With the WJ kit, it was so darn close to going in I knew if she just pulled down on the axle like she did, I could get it in. It just looks dramatic because she has no upper body strength and she weighs next to nothing haha
I did the 3.5"From Supreme suspension and I Like it....I've got the bug...I will be Going 4.5" next.and 35's
Michael Harper my wife is already asking to bumper her suspension up to 4”! We are looking at the Zone 4” kit!
Cruzredeye I have
My Winch plate, and Thing's are Progressing. Keep the Faith!!
I have a 3" set for my 04'
Thx Ben & wife getting ready to do my 04 and this helps...did you say Yoopers at the intro also ? If so greetings from the lower half of this wonderful state of lakes!
Unfortunately I did not, I hail from the south, Georgia to be exact haha but thank you for the compliments! Especially my wife, she is starting to FINALLY get the Jeep bug haha she actually asked me for a 4” Zone lift for her WJ as her anniversary present last year! I about fell over haha so thanks for mentioning her, those little comments do help with keeping her engaged!
nice,
you can get clamps that compress the springs, I forgot the exact name though. Makes it easier. Whether its worth it for a once off use, I don't know
Strider they are called coil compressors or you can use strut compressors but they are not safe to use at all! I have used them before but they are not very secure and they can tend to slip off and the coil spring instantly unloads and the compressor tool can easily turn into a projectile that can send you to the hospital. I was working with a buddy of mine in high school and that happened to him and we had to rush him to the emergency room. Ever since then, I refuse to use them except for compressing struts only which is what they are designed for. Make it known Ben The Jeep Guy does NOT recommend those, better just to loosen or remove everything you can to get the spring in without the strut/spring compressors.
Those tires are going to rub without a doubt. I highly recommend an adjustable track bar and a line up.
Charles Amaral oh they definitely did! The rear tires cleared fine but the front rubbed a ton! I did a fair amount of trimming on the front bumper and I folded the pinch seam at the back of the wheel well and that helped. It still rubbed a good bit on the bumper at full turn but anymore trimming and the bumper would have looked more backed up than I would have cared for. I was planning to toss on some UpCountry springs to gain another inch but never got around to it before the Jeep was totaled. The track bar actually kept it close to center, didn’t need an adjustable like my XJ did. Took it to the alignment shop and had them check everything over and get the steering perfect and everything adjusted within spec! I was impressed with the WJ’s suspension being able to have 2.5” rode height added and the suspension tolerating that without any drop brackets or other adjustable components added!
"get things in that are stubborn" .. (wife laughs)......... shes a keeper
It looks great do you still have your Jeep?
Hey Ben! Awesome video and it's also very informative! I have an 02' WJ that is 2WD. Do you have a recommendation for a lift that would comparable to your wife's there?
Joey Cobb this is a fantastic kit for the 2wd Jeeps! The 2wd and 4x4 Jeeps both have the same suspension setup so this kit will work on your Jeep! If the shocks are original or worn out on yours I highly recommend new shocks and the Monroe shocks I used are a nice fit, firm but comfortable. The lift and shocks are linked in the description of this video if you want to know where to find them. Hope that helps! Feel free to hit me with any other questions you have! Make sure to subscribe, I have more WJ stuff coming! Also you can find me on Instagram and Facebook for more Jeep stuff from me! Happy Jeepin!
Yeah man I followed and I look forward to seeing those future vids! And that's awesome info because it's time to give my jeep the upgrades it desperately needs! Lol
Why would u want 2wd? Just basking
Thanks for the video. Will be doing this on my son's WJ. How much cutting was required? Pics? Thanks!
So really cutting will depend on your wheel and tire setup. If you retain the factory wheels, odds of cutting are minimal with up to a 32” tall tire that is no more than 10.5” wide. If you run aftermarket wheel with a heavy offset that sticks the tires outside the body more, and the wheel is wider than 8.5” wide, then you will have to do significant cutting with that same size tire. I recommend a factory JK or JL wheel with the JK Rubicon factory tire size. No rubbing and excellent fitment.
Nice video guys just curious if you had to cut some plastic off in the front? Those tires are 32” I believe it’s great I’m going to get it done
So this is what I have found with this lift, if you keep factory wheels, no wheel spacers, you won’t have to cut as much as if you did wheel spacers + stock wheels, or aftermarket wheels with a large offset, then the tires is more likely to contact the inner fender liner and the front bumper. On this Jeep I had to cut a TON of plastic, inner fender liner both front and back of the wheel well, along with the front bump lip. The wheels had a heavy offset and even still, in reverse it rubbed pretty good. If I had cut anymore than I did on the bumper, it would have started to look a little hacked up. We now have an 02 Overland, not the same Jeep in the video, and it has a 2” spacer lift with stock coils and this time we have the same size tires with some OEM Gladiator Rubicon wheels that have a factory offset that keep the tires more tucked under the body, 0 rubbing after some lite trimming. It had a different set of wheels originally with a more outward offset and it rubbed about as bad as the Jeep in the video with the same size tires. I was actually kind of shocked how much it improved the rubbing to go with an OEM wheel with less offset.
Nice jeep
Alec Pointer thank you! It was a good one!
great video. Loved that wife was included. You two are a very cute couple. Liked and subbed.
Guy Kirkland thanks man! Sorry it took me so long to respond!
Thanks great video I want to raise my Jeep about 3 inches
Kevin tidmore thank you! So glad you found the video helpful! If you are going 3 inches, I would stray away from spacers, I know there are a few 3 inch spacer kits out there similar to the one we used but the 3 inch spacers are kind of scary in my opinion. When I installed this 2.5” spacer kit, I was a tiny bit skeptical of the rear spacers and coil springs staying in place, I wouldn’t feel comfortable with the 3 inch tall ones. But they make excellent 3 inch full suspension kits that come with all for new coil springs that give the Jeep the 3 inches of lift. But if your budget can only afford you a spacer kit, I recommend the 2.5” at maximum.
Great video. Have my kit coming. Where do you take the track bar lose in the front so the whole axel will drop, not sure I followed that part which apparently makes it much easier. Thanks.
Glad you liked it! It’s really simple, just unbolt the track bar at the axle end of the the track bar. It’s far easier than the frame end to remove. The nut is welded to the axle so you are only removing the bolt. Now a little pro tip, when it comes time to reinstall, if the bolt hole doesn’t line up, start the Jeep and have someone slowly turn the wheel in either direction and this will pull the body of the Jeep over the top of the axle and help you get the holes to line up. Please make sure your Jeep is safely secured by jack stands before you have someone hop in it while it’s jacked up. This procedure to get the holes to line up CAN be done after the Jeep is sitting back on the ground on the tires. I don’t want to be responsible for you getting hurt! Safety first, ALWAYS! Hope that helps!
Excellent advice and I appreciate your assistance. Will do!!
Maxwell Carter feel free to ask any more questions you may have! And don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t already! I have more WJ stuff coming!
Did almost the same lift on my wj, but the shocks that came with mine where junk.... Not the same as yours. Gonna buy some nice bilstein shocks. Just bought 265/70/r16's for it though gonna do a video on that. Ur jeep looks sick, nice vids.
WJ Life thanks man! I really appreciate the compliments! This lift has been great so far, perfect for a street Jeep that sees some camping duty. My wife wants more lift so we are considering the Zone 4” for her next step up! You will like running Bilsteins on your Jeep man, they are some of the best to buy and shocks can make all the difference in ride quality.
WJ Life oh and I have some more WJ stuff coming up here soon, make sure to subscribe so you can check out the videos when I get them up!
I did subscribe!, but my last thing then ill leave you alone hehe. Be careful when going with a 4" lift on a wj. I did a ton of research on it. When you start getting taller, yet go with a cheaper lift it doesn't come with all the stuff u need for the jeep to be reliable. I recommend a 4" rustys lift, not even the long arm one. A lot of people say they run into problems with other offroad lifts. Biggest one is the front drive shaft fails A LOT! mainly because the lifts are done cheap and do not have proper transfer case drop down brackets, or good caster angles. Not my jeep though, but if I had to choose I would go with a rusty's lift. I never hear of problems with them. Will still watch no matter what you go with!!!
Oh I have been watching the forums and facebook pages seeing what people are saying about different kits to make sure to get the right one. People love the Ironrock kits but I felt their short arm kits just didn't offer enough for the same money as the Zone kit. Personally I love Rubicon Express but at the time that they would have developed a WJ kit, they were bought by Transamerican Auto Parts and quit developing anything outside of the Wrangler. I liked the zone kit because it has the rear A arm spacer and it does have a T-case drop along with a track bar and lower control arms up front. Thankfully our WJ has a real driveshaft with the Double Cardan at the t case and a u-joint at the axle so we shouldn't have the driveshaft failure like the guys that have the rezeppa joints that are just junk. So I am going to give it a gamble and hey, if I have a bad experience with it I will document it and post my experiences here to help anyone who might be considering it! But at the end of the day, at least it isn't Rough Country! haha
Hahaha yea you r right! Im glad it is not rough country. But props to u for doing a different lift. A lot of people will only go with a rustys lift because they specialize in cherokee and grand cherokee more than the next lift company. I wouldn't buy a lift for a new wrangler from rustys. But I do love the fact that rustys makes everything in america. My dream lift is there 6.5 long arm kit. 😂 3,000$...... To much for a college guy.
Earned a sub here, i'm thinking about doing this myself to my 99. Mechanic said i need new bushings for the rear control arms so since i'm dropping the rear to replace those i'm thinking a lift would look nice. How's the ride at highway speeds? I've read a lot about these getting a wobble when lifted?
First, thank you so much for subscribing! I really appreciate it! I have a few more WJ videos in the works so I’m glad you won’t miss them! Ok so first suggestion, the rear control arms, don’t bother with replacing the bushings. Replace the either arm with some stock replacements from rock auto. The bushings are a huge pain to try and replace in the control arm, it’s easier to just replace the arm and the arms can be bought fairly affordable. Ride quality is superb since you retain the factory coil springs. I used a OE style shock so no roughness added there only improved handling from replacing blown shocks. The ride did roughen up a little bit from the tire choice since we went with a mud terrain tire. Now, yes these can get bad death wobble but it’s often due to worn out other parts like bad bushings in the control arms, worn front shocks, worn out track bar bushings (most common), worn ball joints, worn wheel bearings, or out of balance tires (other most common). We fought death wobble in ours. It’s main cause was the track bar and I finally removed the rubber bushing and went with Moog’s problem solver polyurethane bushing kit. But we still would get it from time to time. So I replaced the ball joints, wheel bearings, and axle shafts and it cured any death wobble we had left. Hope that helps! Don’t forget to follow me on IG, FB, and Twitter! Reach out anytime!
Ben The Jeep Guy Awesome can't wait for those follow ups. And yeah i already have the control arms the cost of bushings vs new made that a definite. Thanks for the information, definitely considering this now.
@@BenTheJeepGuy good advice for fighting wobble, somethings are safer to just replace.
Love the vid. Thank you. Quick question though. I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ, can a 2.5" BB (or 2.5" longer springs) be put on it without any other modifications (ie shocks, arms etc)?
You can get away without any of that, though the shocks will be about at their limits and if you have never changed the shocks, there is a good chance they need to be changed anyways since they are often a part that gets overlooked until there is a very obvious problem with them. I would highly recommend doing a shock replacement while you are at it. I recently picked up set of Bilstein 5100s for our new Overland and they are nice! I found some Amazon listings that allowed me to purchase them close to $280 where everywhere else was over $350. But you can go with a lesser quality shock and do it for a bit cheaper. The control arms and track bar should be ok at 2.5" or less as long as those parts are not worn out already.
@@BenTheJeepGuy Wow quick response. Thank you so much. I hear you, and I understand. However, in Croatia laws are somewhat different, as are paycheques. Vehicles must pass a technical inspection before being insured. Right now the Jeep WJ just needs to be insured, then the lift kit, then tires, then shocks, then off road lights, and finally bumpers with winch. This way I have a year to slowly build it up to what I desire. Shocks are in the plan, but after the lift kit. I do not have intentions for any serious off-roading, but more for vineyards, olive plantations, etc. In any case, I was more worried about lifting 2.5" and not being able to reconnect the shocks, control arms etc. For starters. Thank you once again for your help and advice. Keep up the awesome vids, because you make everything look so simple, I am going to attempt it.
jelena vlašić totally get the budget! Make the shocks the next purchase but, yes you can get away with the stock shocks with this kit. My uncle was actually a Christian missionary in Croatia for close to 20 years I believe and helped start a church over there, never got a chance to visit but him and his wife (both Americans) still speak the native language sometimes, it’s pretty cool! Good luck! Follow me on Instagram if you have one and tag me when you get done! I would love to see your Jeep as you build it!
Really like your video, I like the way your rims and tire look do you know your rim offset and width?
Thank you! I really appreciate the compliment! The wheels are Moto Metal 17x9 that fit the WJ 5x5 or metric 5x127. Offset is -12 and backspacing is 4.53. My wife loves the wheels and she gets compliments on the Jeep all the time!
Ben The Jeep Guy thanks for the help
Matt McCoy no problem! If you got any questions just send them my way! I would love to help! Oh and make sure to follow me on Facebook: facebook.com/BenTheJeepGuy/ and IG: @JeepGuyBen!
I have new shocks from AutoZone and a 3 inch budget Booth lift from ebay. Being down my shocks are new should I change them?. If I did get the shocks that you have would it give me more lift? Or would it not sag as much?
Hi Ben, Thanks for the video, I liked a lot that work.... I got a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and I want to lift it 2.5" and I would like to know What is the maximum tire size if It has a 17" rims... I don't want any rub... Thanks a lot
Glad you liked it! I would recommend a 31 inch tall tire if you want to have minimal to no trimming to fit with little to no rubbing. Our size tire, 255/75R17, is actually a 32.1 inch tall tire and while they fit, there was a good amount of trimming that needed to be done for the front tires to not rub so much on the bumper and on the pinch seam on the back side of the wheel well. Our tires still rub pretty good on the bumper when reversing out of the driveway or out of parking spots. It sounds awful but really isn't hurting anything since the bumper is plastic.
Ben The Jeep Guy hey Ben can we get an update on the Jeep any issues with the suspension? Things you would recommend doing?
Daniel Vivas I have 32’s on my jeep with a 4in lift
Dave Pawson thanks how high is your lift?
@@kylebritt2459 Can you show me ?
Hey Ben! So sorry about the delay in update on my Jeep! So, I completed the 2 inch rough country lift and I now have the infamous death wobble, only after 55 or so and hitting a small pot hole or applying breaks at around 55 almost does it. Other than that pretty smooth. My Jeep emblem on steering wheel is slightly not center now too. I haven't got under to really investigate it yet but will be soon. Could it be just the stabilizer shock? When I was checking everything out with putting lift on, everything seemed pretty tight. Thanks again for your help!!
So...I went ahead and I'm replacing all of the front end. I just finished new tie rod sleeves/ends, stabilizer, track bar, ball joints, bearings and hub and rotors/brakes. I'm starting on other side wheel tonight. Those ball joints are a force to be reckoned with if you don't have the right press and adapters! Hopefully, all of this will resolve the wobble!
Hey there! Sorry for the late response 😬 so for your death wobble issue, definitely start with the basics. Get an alignment from a reputable shop. If there is an off-road shop in your area with an alignment machine, go there since they will know how to adjust for a lifted vehicle, other shops will just shoot for factory spec and that may not be quite right for you, but would be close enough if your local shop options are limited. Second is wheel and tire balance. If you did not get new tires, get them rotated and balanced and see if that helps. Next, check the condition of the track bar bushings. If they are worn and cracking, that’s your problem. Lay under the Jeep and have someone start it and turn the wheels and tires back and forth. Watch the bushings at either end and see if you can notice any excessive movement in the bushing. If that checks out, inspect the tie rod ends on both the drag link and the tie rod. Next check ball joints and then control arm bushings after that. Rarely is a steering stabilizer ever the cause. Doing a new stabilizer or double stabilizer only puts a bandaid on the issue, the real cause is still there and wasn’t addressed by changing the stabilizer. Hope that helps! If you want a more direct contact with me, feel free to reach out to me via DM on IG. That way if you want to send me any videos or pictures of the different parts I mentioned, I can try and help you diagnose it.
I don't want to discourage anyone who takes the time to make helpful videos like this. But if its of any use I have a suggestion. The intro was too long. The basics you covered were good around what tools you need etc but can be just a link to a separate video. When the time came to change the shocks, you skipped over steps like how to take the top bolt off when the shaft in the shocks rotate with it... A bit more time on the key points and less on superfluous points may have helped. I do love that you are doing this project with your wife, which makes it a 'feel good' video as well as informative. Thank you and pls don't take this as a knock. I enjoyed the video!
Yeah, I’ve fine tuned my videos since then, this was the very first video I ever shot and put together. I tried to come from the approach of a first time mechanic since this is a beginner kit. I didn’t cover the shock problem because I frankly didn’t have it on this one (the joys of living in the south!) but I have had that problem come up twice now since then so I plan to discuss it in my next lift kit video when we put the Zone 4” kit on our new 02 Overland we picked up last year. But there are also just so many little things in this process that frankly if I went over them, the video would be 30 minutes long and very few people would watch that long. RUclips has a lot of metrics they consider and making videos and being successful about it is viewers attention retention. Plus if I leave small thing about, then it helps inspire people to comment and ask questions to which I can then interact with my viewers! But I appreciate the constructive criticism! These kinds of comments really do help me make better vids!
@@BenTheJeepGuy Thanks Ben, appreciate you taking the time to respond! Keep up the good work.
Replaying again 😂, my new shocks have some rattle in the front.... Did u use those spacers you said about the front shocks? Think thought it is the bottom bushing sliding....
WJ Life watch as many times as you need to! I’m a General Contractor too so I live by “measure twice, cut once!” Haha ok so the mention of the spacers in the directions was rather vague so what I gathered was, they are for the rear shocks. The front shocks have a bar pin at the bottom pre-installed on most OE style shocks. Now aftermarket shocks sometimes have the bushings and bar pins not installed and you have to put them in yourself. But either way, you couldn’t use them on the bottom. Now you could use them up top I guess but I can’t imagine why. Now for the rear I can see if the shock had a narrow bushing that they may be needed at the top or bottom to fill in a gap but we ended up not needing them with these shocks. I would definitely determine if it’s the top or bottom busing up front that is making noise. Feel free to email me at jeepguyben@gmail.com or reach out to me via my Facebook page private message and I can try to help further!
Ben The Jeep Guy ok thanks!!
Hi. I am looking also for a budget lift kit that I could fit some 33's in. So with 2" lift your could fit 32's with some triming. Mine are 32.5 so a gas that with a bit more triming they will fit. What do you think?
paul anton so the tires we have are a metric 32.1” and I had to trim a considerable amount from the front bumper and the inner fender liner. I also had to fold the punch seam at the rear of the front wheel wells to clear the tires. What also makes a difference is wheel choice. The wheels we had on this Jeep had a very large offset so they stuck out quite a bit along with they were 9” wide so the wheels really spread the tire out. The wheels weren’t the best choice and we have since gone with a stock JT Gladiator Rubicon wheel. The offset is much nicer, tucks the tire in closet under the body, and the width is only 7.5” wide instead of 9” and now we have very little rubbing. We also have some older Overland springs which are stock springs off an Overland model Grand Cherokee and those sat 1” taller than the other models so now we are more like 3”-3.5” of lift. To run your 32.5” I would say you need a minimum of 3” of lift and while there are spacers available at 3” of lift, I don’t recommend them. 2.5” spacers is the max I would recommend for a spacer style kit with the way they mount, I would be concerned that 3” spacers will slip out of place over time. For a true 33” tall tire you need 4” of lift and I highly recommend the Zone kit, it’s very affordable and the Zone brand it owned by BDS so the Zone line is their budget friendly brand.
Currently running 33's on My 2001 Limited.....
Good old WD-40 fits any situation :D
Maik Jansen worked well enough for this one atleast haha
Hi I know this is an old video but the rare spacer which is the side that goes up the one with the holes or the flat side thanks
Flat side faces the coil spring, non-flat side with “holes” faces towards the metal buck that the coil sits against.
For the back spacer did u have the flat side down against the axle or up against the coil isolator?
So there are a lot of spacer kits out there, made of either steel, delrin plastic, or polyurethane (which is like a synthetic rubber compound). Each kit either tells you to put the spacer on the top of the coil spring, or under the coil spring, both ways work but you should do what the directions in YOUR kit says to do. Our’s said to put it on the bottom and our kit is made of delrin plastic. Since our’s was delrin, it wasn’t a slab of plastic, it was a mold and one side had open voids in it with just internal plastic “bracing.” I assume this was to reduce cost and weight. The instructions had us install everything in this exact order, spacer in axle coil bucket with void sides down and flat side up facing the coil spring, then the rubber isolator, then the coil spring with the rubber isolator on top of coil spring in the upper coil bucket on the “frame” (these are unibody vehicles so technically there is no frame on these, hence the air quotations for “frame). Hope that helps! If you got any other questions, hit me back! Also, I respond a little better over on IG through DM, if you need more help.
Any idea where to find a set of up country springs for the front?
Tommy Seagraves RockAuto always has them, they label them as “Overland” springs since the UpCountry suspension was standard equipment on the Overland model. That will net you an additional inch of lift as well.
What is the state of the front driveshaft? Is it rezepa or did you swap in a double-Cardan?
R we actually got lucky with our Jeep, it came equipped with the Double Cardan from the factory!
Hi Ben, great video I found it very informative. I have an 02 Grand Cherokee Limited and I just purchased BB lift with 3" in the front and 2"in the rear. I was hoping to run 265/70/R17 but I don't know if they will work. When you say there is trimming involved what exactly does that mean. Do you have a video or possibly pics of what you have done to get it rub less?
Ralf Korus you might be ok with that size but still need to trim. Our tires came out to a 32.1” tall and 10” wide tire. Yours will be 31.6” tall and 10.4” wide so you will probably still have to trim but hopefully not as severely as we did. I trimmed the bumper job the lip starting about maybe 4-6” from where the lip meets the fender and as I trimmed down the lip towards the bottom edge of the bumper under the fog light, I slowly tapered it our wider taking more and more material off as I traveled down the lip of the bumper. Hope that makes sense enough for you. I also trimmed the edge of the plastic lower fender body cladding at the back of the wheel well. It wraps around the fender into the wheel well so I just trimmed off the edge that the tire was catching on. There is also a metal punch seam at the back of the wheel well on both front wheels that I folded over with a big hammer and then the bottom back edge of the plastic inner fender liner was catching on the big knobby treads of the mud terrain tires so I took a self tapping screw and big washer and screwed it through the plastic inner fender into the metal wheel well to hold it back out of the way. The bumper still rubbed when turning in reverse but only on really tight turns like backing out of the driveway or parking spots so I left it as it was because I had planned to replace the bumper anyways and had I trimmed it off anymore, it might have started to make the bumper look hacked up. Hope that helps! Good luck!
@@BenTheJeepGuy thank you for the support Ben. I am waiting to the snow to recede so I can start since I do not have the luxury of a garage. I will keep you posted. Cheers
@@ralfkorus4660no problem man! Happy to help! I can understand the feeling, I live in a one car garage house and by a garage I mean a storage room with a very large door haha So I don't have the luxury of a garage really either haha. Since you said you live where there is snow, I will assume that they salt the roads up there. Be prepared to have a lot of things fight with you. Go over my video again and watch each item I removed or disconnected and soak all of the bolts and fasteners with PB Blaster penetrating oil every day for 2 weeks prior to install. Also, when you remove the front coil springs, pull the rubber lower coil spring isolator off and check the coil bucket on the axle that the coil spring sits on. EVERY WJ I have worked on has had these rusted out. Even our WJ that was sold and lived it's entire life down here in Georgia never seeing salt, it had it's coil buckets pretty heavily rusted out. If its rusted through, you will need to make the repair before putting it all back together. Ironman 4x4 Fab sells both weld on and bolt on solutions for that fix. If you need the links to their site for those just let me know.
@@BenTheJeepGuy thank again for the input. I watched a few videos on the lift kit installations and I noticed that if the person installing the kit actually lifted the rubber off that there was a lot of rust. I would love the links for that site, I will take all the help I can get. Is there any way to find out that there is an issue before installing the lift kit? I'm guessing not. It would be nice to have the parts before I start if required and also to see exactly what it is. I live in a small town on Vancouver island and parts like that are usually 2 days away unless I get lucky and someone has what I need but it would definately be at a premium cost. Cheers
Ralf Korus www.ironman4x4fab.com/product-page/wj-bolt-on-coil-bucket-repair-kit
Can this kit be used on a 2000 awd version
Sconnie Whitetails it is compatible with ALL 99-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ models. This is NOT for the Standard Jeep Cherokee, only GRAND Cherokee. Good luck with your build! Feel free to ask any other questions you have, I would be glad to help!
Great video however may I say go to harbor freight and get a spring compressor for 30 dollars trying to get the springs back in with a pry bar is asking for trouble if that spring comes loose from the bar its going to HURT
Thomas Swearingen I won’t ever use a spring compressor ever again unless I’m trying to disassemble a strut. I’ve seen them lose grip and unload, sending a friend to the ER. They are just too dangerous, the pry bar is far less violent and dangerous than a spring compressor.
Is it okay if I put the spacer on the bottom of the spring in the front ?
No way, the front spacers always, always go on top. The rear seems to be mixed opinions and really seems to work on top or bottom so do whatever the directions in your kit recommend but for the front, they always go on top.
Will this mess up my 4 wheel drive at all? I have the 242 transfer case
Nope, shouldn’t hurt the 4 wheel drive. Depending on what front drive shaft you have, if you have the Rezeppa shaft, you may wear out those joint prematurely and need to swap to a double cardan front driveshaft. It has been my understanding though that the 242 was usually paired with the double cardan shaft and not the Rezeppa shaft. If you are not sure how to tell, you can send me a photo in DM on IG and I can tell you which one you have from just a good photo.
WJ 2000
Noise and vibration issue at 110km after 2" lift.
Joint Driveshaft been replaced as well.
What could be the problem??
karim wagih which driveshaft do you have for the front driveshaft and is that the one you are referring to? Have you inspected the u-joints in the rear driveshaft?
Just the video I was looking for as I plan to do this same Spacer Lift with bilstein shocks. Couple of questions.
1. Do you bolt in the spacers, or do they literally just sit in there?
2. Did you do a video of the trimming? Any suggestions on that, and did you have to trim the back with that size? Thanks
I am so glad to hear you found this video helpful! That was my goal!
1. Ok so first question, yes they just sit there and there is no bolting them in place or anything. The fronts can go anywhere if they wanted to, they are sandwiched there in between the top coil spring isolator and the body of the Jeep. The rear did feel mildly sketchy the way they sat there on the bottom and possibly the coil spring could slip off if you max out the articulation offroad, but I mean you would have to MAX. IT. OUT! So I don't think anyone buying this kit is in any real danger of that since they will likely never be that heavy offloading their Jeep with this kit when they should have gone more aggressive.
2. I don't have any video of the trimming unfortunately. This was my first time with this lift on this Jeep with this tire size so I wasn't able to predict the amount I would need. It was trial and error and it still rubs a bit on hard turns in parking spaces and in and out of the driveway. But I will say this, the tire size is the same as the JK Rubicons and is in fact the exact same tire. A popular wheel and tire choice for this lift is JK Rubicon wheel and tire take-offs, meaning the stock wheels and tire that were taken off the JK Rubicon Wrangler in order to put on a larger set for a lift Jeep. So the stock wheels don't have the same amount of backspacing meaning they don't stick out as far. The stock JK wheels are also 7.5" wide versus our wheels which are 9" wide. That means our wheels fatten out the tire more than the stock JK wheels. I think this makes a difference in how much it rubs so I think we get more rubbing that others that kept the stock JK wheels with these tires. Hope that helps! You can score some stock JK wheels and tires locally pretty cheap I bet.
Cool thanks. Looking for a bit more clearance to take this out to the beach in NC, so I doubt I will have an issue with the lift. I already ordered some Crager Soft 8s 15'' with 4'' back spacing. I am looking at some Cooper Discoverer tires 265/75R15. It says they are 31'' x 9''. I think they will fit, but i'm open to trim as needed. Thanks again.
Jon Allen Spring Compressors Are your Friend.
Michael Harper respectfully, I highly do NOT recommend spring compressors. I have witnessed just how dangerous they can be if they slip off and let go. Also, when I have used them myself, I spent more time fighting with the compressor than it would have taken me to just remove the track bar and one end of the lower control arms which lets it drop further. I only use compressors when working with struts but never on coil springs anymore.
Do you have to worry about the transfer case or anything with this lift long term ?
Nope, if you run this as a street Jeep with some lite off-roading, you should be fine. The front driveshaft with the Rezeppa joints may see a shorten lifespan, but I always recommend the front driveshaft conversion to a double cardan joint and traditional u-joints for greater durability and longer life. There really isn’t any impact that any lift would have on the transfercase itself, just the front driveshaft that can be limited in lift height due to the Rezeppa joints if you have that driveshaft. You can run this with the stock shocks, but I don’t recommend it since most Jeep’s shocks are worn out to start with.
Only question is why front spacer went on top of coil springs and back on bottom ????
Yeah I thought that was strange too but it’s what the directions said so that’s what I did. My gut instinct was to put it on top though
What size rims and tires did you end up fitting with the lift?
Bill Baird same tire size as I put on the screen in the video, 255/75R17 BFG KM1 same as came on the JK Rubcions. The wheels are 17x9 Moto Metal MO951. They just barely fit. I had to trim a considerable amount of the front bumper without making it look hacked up. I also had to fold the punch seam at the back of the front wheel wells if I was doing this again, I would also buy Overland/UpCountry coil springs along with the spacers to gain 1 more inch of height to clear this size tire better.
what size are those shocks ? can you post a link to buy them ?
Got links in the description just for that! 😎
I've got the 3" on my 04 wj with the same wheels but with 35s 😂
Cory White 3 in spacers?
Alejandro Preciado yeah man
Cory White how is the WJ holding up so far with the 3” spacers? I’m torn between the 2.5 and the 3”
Logistics! She’s still good and perfect!
Hello! What brand of car allow wheels???
Сергей Войцеховский Moto Metal M0951 size 17x9
👍👍👍
How high were your stands set at? The first level? Also for the rear did you have both wheels off? Or just one?
TGWorkbench I think I set them at the second notch. My jack stands are built for truck so they hold a lot of weight and they are quite tall. Back in the day I used to have the smaller passenger car jack stands that were much shorter and they nearly maxed out trying to use them on lifted Jeeps. The rear I took both wheels off, just like the front. Hope that helps!
Yes, you have the 6 ton's. Passenger stands dont work, atleast for me. I was able to borrow some 6 tons from my neighbor. Thank you very much! Quick response even after a few months!
Hey Ben! Sorry to bother you, having trouble getting the rear in right now. I dropped the rear end pretty far down but it looks like it is tugging on the brake lines? I tried coil compressors but they are either hitting the "tophat" or what looks like the ABS wire loom. Any help?
TGWorkbench message me over in my Facebook page with some pictures of your issues so I can get a better picture of what you are dealing with. I’m happy to help!
Did you happen to have any squeaking coming from the front end after installing the lift kit? Just installed the same lift as you and it started squeaking after a few miles
I didn’t get any squeaking but a squeak can develop from a lot of different things that would have been touched during installation. It’s important to try and pinpoint the source of the squeak and then from there you can come up with a solution where it be possibly tightening a bolt that wasn’t torqued to enough spec, or maybe installation procedure wasn’t followed to the letter so something isn’t quite installed properly. If you could narrow down the location you think the squeak is coming from, I might be able to assist in coming up with a remedy.
Hi Ben! 17x9 not too big for 255/75 ? Or 17x8 better ?
17x8 would be better but our wheels were 17x9 and they did pretty good! Never had an issue with them! Hope that helps!
Would it fit a 2000 awd 4hi an 4lo Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo v8
William Roy sure will! The only thing that MIGHT give you issue is the style of front driveshaft that your Jeep is equipped with. If you have the Rezeppa joints then it potentially could cause a problem for you, though most experience any issues with that driveshaft when lifted 3” or more. If you have the standard conventional Double Cardan u joint driveshaft like we did, then you will be perfectly fine!
Ben The Jeep Guy would I need to change any brake lines or anything
William Roy you shouldn’t need brake lines with a kit like this. The stock lines are plenty long enough for daily driving and for the amount of suspension flex you will get with this kit. If you did a 3 inch kit with new super flex control arms I would say you MAY possibly need some for the amount of suspension flex you would get but a 2.5” spacer kit that retains all other factory parts, you should be in no need of longer lines.
Hey Ben. Thanks for the video. Do you have a link to the lift and part numbers for the shocks? This set up will be perfect for my WJ dune cruiser.
Tonka 329 you are very welcome! I’m glad you found it helpful! I actually have links to the lift kit and shocks in the description to this video. Great prices on Amazon for all of it but you might be able to get the shocks cheaper at RockAuto.com so definitely look the shocks up there and see what the price is for them with shipping to where you live! Good luck!
Ben The Jeep Guy
Give Amanda an "atta girl" for helping. Thanks again dude! Be safe!
Tonka 329 I will make sure to pass that along to her! Thanks for watching and if you need any advice feel free to hit me up here, on my Facebook page or you can email me direct jeepguyben@gmail.com. Oh and make sure to subscribe! I got more WJ stuff planned!
Sorry to bother you gain but, what is your tire size?
Tonka 329 no bother at all! We are running 255/75R17 which comes out to 32.1” x 10” and that’s the size that comes on the JK Wranglers. We also have 17x9 Moto Metal wheels that have quite a bit of offset.
What type of wheels are those
Jacob Woodbine they are Moto Metal M0951 Chrome in size 17x9. If you live near Georgia, the wheels and tires are for sale!
Cool! Did you feel the lift good? And touch it?
Babalou 212 the lift is excellent! Really is a great value and held up well while we had it! I wish I could stay it’s still doing well but we lost that Jeep from an accident. We have a new one with a similar lift already on it and it’s been there a while, and it’s still holding up! We are going to be going to a full, 4” Zone loft kit soon and I’ll have another video detailing that one as well.
@@BenTheJeepGuy How was the ride? did it change it a lot?
@@alfranz4488 ride quality is very good. You retain the factory coil springs so the ride quality will mainly change based on the shocks you choose and the tires you choose. If you go with a really stiff shock or a low quality bargain brand shock, you will get either a stiff ride or a bouncy ride. I used bargain brand shocks on my Dad’s Overland WJ at stock height and I used Bilstein 5100 on our current WJ Overland (the WJ in the video was totaled after an accident), my Dad’s is a very bouncy ride and I don’t feel like I, as the driver, have very good control over the Jeep. The Bilstein 5100 on our current WJ with the 2” spacer lift, it rides better and I feel like I am more in control over the Jeep than my Dad’s Jeep. Yes, sharp bumps in the road are felt a little more harshly with the Bilstein shocks and mud terrain tires, but not enough to make the ride terrible. Also tires, a stiffer tires can equate to a harsher ride quality. So mud-terrain tires tend to ride more harshly than a street tires or all-terrain tires. But I really like the way it rides and we have a 4” Zone lift that I will be putting on soon and I will be doing an install + review of that lift as well! Makes sure to subscribe and hit that notification bell so you don’t miss it!
I didn't see you bolt in the front spacer. There should have been a self tapper bolt to bolt it into place.
No bolt needed in this kit.
I have a good ride with my new shocks i just got, but when i hit bumps its sounds the same as before. Its like a banging noise on large bumps.... Im wondering if its the pucks. But i also feel like its the stock control arms. Wondered what you think seeing as you have the same puck lift. Does yours have noise over large bumps? And would you know of a way to fix it?
So I am also experiencing a clunky sound from in the back. It was there before the lift too. I thought “surely this is the upper A arm ball joint, that’s what usually goes bad back there right?” And I replaced it. No change. So I am now thinking it may be one of the control arms or A arm. Now our rear lower coil spring isolators were in decent shape but the uppers were pretty much gone. I have every intention to replace those at some point and if replacing the control arms and A arm don’t do it, I’m hoping that the coil spring isolators will be the solution.
Ben The Jeep Guy if anythibg to start off with get a KOR rear shock bolt kit, i had clunks in the rear ontop of the bad ride. Costs 24$... I would try that first. But the front of your wifes jeep rides quit? My front and rear is noisy on hard bumps and i dont know why....
Ben The Jeep Guy if you ever do get your problem solved, a video would be awesome!!! I bet u r not the only on with this problem.
WJ Life I heard about the KOR shocks bolt kit. Wasn’t sure if we really needed it since the bolts are nice and tight on ours but that kit was considered as well. Aside from the clunk, our Jeep rides really well! The front has new upper control arm axle end bushings, new track bar bushings using Moogs Problem Solver bushing kit, new wheels bearings, and new axle shafts. Lot of new things all around. Can you describe your noise a little better and more detail over the situations that you get the noise and what it sounds like?
Ben The Jeep Guy the noise is kinda like a bottoming out noise on large bumps, rides smooth over small things. But once i hit that deep pot hole, our large bump, it feels and sounds like i have steel front wheels, like a heavy thud. I have new wheel bearings, KOR track bar bushings, new pitman arm drag link end, and zone sway bar links. I checked my ball joints and they r fine. And i did not have this ride before the lift. So that makes me feel like its the pucks even more, but when i hear ur ride is great i think im wrong. Do my control arm bushing need replaced? At the same time when i look at the front pucks there is a tiny gap between the top coil tower, and the top of the puck. It is normally touching on one side and seperated a little on the other side. I wonder if it is enough of a gap to smack when i hit large bumps.
So if I do this budget boost with the upcountry shocks and springs will I need to do anything to the trans/transfer case or steering
Tommy Seagraves always always always get the steering aligned after a lift install, the steering wheel will be off and it’s just a good idea to have done. I’ll do a driveway alignment and then still get it checked at my local preferred shop to have their machine check it. You also need to make sure you don’t have the rezeppa front driveshaft. If you do, you will likely need to change it out. If you are not sure what you have, find me on IG or FB and you can send me some photos of your front driveshaft if you need help identifying it. We bought a new WJ, that one in the video was totaled. Our new one has the UpCountry cool springs with a 2” spacer kit. It rides decent, it’s pretty comfortable but I wish it was just a bit firmer. We went with Bilstein 5100 shocks this time and it’s better than before but still feels a little soft and sways a bit. I would probably say longer front and rear sway bar links could help but ultimately we opted to just go for the Zone 4” kit. I’ll be doing a video for that once I can install it.
Thanks for the info. Whats your IG handle and/or FB. My IG is @redlegst1r
Tommy Seagraves my IG is @JeepGuyBen and FB just search “Ben The Jeep Guy”
So you have to buy 4 of the shocks
Alec Pointer yup, the front two are the same and the back two are the same but the front and rear are different so they cannot be used front to back or vice versa. But yes you should do all 4. If you don’t plan to take it off road then you can probably get away with keeping your original shocks but I don’t recommend it, odds are they need to be replaced anyways since these Jeeps are so old.
Where did u buy all of this I want to due the same to my jeep
Saul Garcia I bought the lift kit straight from Supreme Suspensions and haggled then down to $100 but you can buy straight from Amazon which I have a link posted in the description above. The shocks are also linked in the description above where you can find them on Amazon but I bought them through RockAuto.com and I bought them during Monroe’s Shocktober sale event in October and I got a rebate for buy 3 and get he 4th free. The wheels and tires are the same size as the JK Wrangler Rubicon. You can buy wheels and tires that people take off the JK locally on Craigslist or Facebook marketplace. The wheels are Moto Metal M0951 17x9 and the tires are BF Goodrich Mud-Terrain KM1 size LT255/75R17
Ben The Jeep Guy Thank You Bud
Should i use this on my 2002 WJ 4X4 with the stock tires? Its been on my mind lately.
Orlando Cartagena you can! I would highly recommend a larger tire but you can get away with it, it just might look a little funny. Some people equate too small of tires on lifted Jeeps as “skipping leg day” if that makes sense to you haha
@@BenTheJeepGuy lol what tires can I fit without cutting and making it look better if you know
Orlando Cartagena a 31 inch or some sort of metric equivalent would probably be the biggest without major cutting, probably some minor trimming of some plastic like on the bumper but nothing too complicated
@@BenTheJeepGuy actually o must noticed, I have the 245/75/16 tires on my jeep. Would those look funny with a 2 inch lift?
Orlando Cartagena that’s about a 30.5” tall tire so that might look ok
On the front passenger, Did you have to remove one side of the lower control arm?
No, it was able to drop down low enough. But you MUST disconnect the track bar at the axle end and the sway bar links need to be disconnected, both sides. If you need a little extra clearance to get the coil spring back in, put a floor jack under the driver side of the axle and jack up the driver side of the axle. Keep jacking it up until you have enough clearance, you may have to do this a couple of times before you have enough room. If you jack it up too far, it will eventually take the passenger side up with it so don’t just jack it up full height of the jack right out the gate, that will only be counter productive to your cause, just jack it up in little increments until you have the room you need to get the coil spring back in. May still require a little persuasion. Good luck!
Ok thank you, I'll try that, the part where the shock mounts is what my control arm is hitting.
@@dabbergames3827 yup, that’s going to happen. Try the tips I gave ya and that should be able to give you the room you need. Worst case, yes remove one end of the lower control arm. DO NOT disconnect BOTH lower control arms, it’s a pain to get the axle to line back up with the control arms to get the bolt to go through. Even just one side can be a challenge when only working on the ground.
@@BenTheJeepGuy Awesome! Appreciate you brotha
@@dabbergames3827 happy to help! Find me on IG JeepGuyBen and you can DM me there as well, I pay attention to that just a little more than here and that way you can get a little more direct access to me should you run into any other issues you could use some advice on. Oh and a subscribe here and a follow there would be much appreciated! ✌🏻
Can you please tell me where you got the kit at I want to buy it
beards & bucks I have provided Amazon links in the description section of the video above for your convenience! Make sure to use those links, I’m an Amazon affiliate so I get a small commission of the sale, your price won’t change at all, Amazon merely splits a small part of the profit with me for earning your business on the purchase!
@@BenTheJeepGuy thank you
beards & bucks my pleasure! And good luck with your build!
What lift u get can u send the link
It’s the Supreme Suspensions 2.5” lift! It’s been great, I highly recommend it. There is a link to the listing on Amazon in the description of the video above!
Hi.What size tires ?
J S 265/70R17 so roughly 32.8” y’all and about 11” or so wide
How much was the shocks a piece??
Alec Pointer under $60 for each one, so probably around $220-$230 total. I have links to Amazon listings for the lift kit and the shocks in the description above.
Hey will these shocks fit even if you don't have the Up Country suspension package?
Steven Watkins yeah they should fit fine. You can get UpCountry Springs for very inexpensive prices and that’s a 1” lift
@@BenTheJeepGuy Thanks for the speedie reply Ben! I'll do some research and see if I can find the springs. In the meantime I'm gonna install the stocks and boost!
Steven Watkins search “Overland” springs. RockAuto sells Moog “Overland” springs at $69.79 for front and rear sets so after shipping probably like $200iah total and you will get an additional inch of suspension height.
@@BenTheJeepGuy will do! Thanks again man!
What is this setup gone cost me im broke broke and want to do a cheap jeep project of my own
nogood lauricia probably between $300 and $500 depending on the current going price of the kit and choice of shocks.
Did this lift require an alignment?
Brandon Hall always always always get an alignment after suspension height changes. On the WJ, if the alignment was already in proper spec, the only adjustment that will need to be made is to the steering wheel which the adjustment for that is in the drag link so this could be done without any specialized equipment at home if you know how to do that.
Ok thanks very much!
What wheel offset are you running. Are you running adapter
Eddy Griffith 4.53” backspacing and -12mm offset according to the website. They stuck out a little farther than I liked but I got them free from work so we didn’t complain too much haha, didn’t have to run adapters, JK and WJ have the same 5x5 lug pattern
@@BenTheJeepGuy thanks so much. Love the look of your wj. Mine is 2wd and wanting a lil lift. Thinking about rustys 2.5 lift with springs and shocks.
Eddy Griffith that’s not a bad kit! Spring rate isn’t much worse than stock so you should be able to maintain a close to factory ride quality though it may stiffen up a bit with their shocks and tire choice will impact ride quality as well! Good luck man!
@@BenTheJeepGuy I think I'm going to run 245 75 16 goodyear authority's or Firestone destination at2.
Just finished with the same setup with new spring seat(top and bottom) I'm now having a clunky noise in the rear. Any ideas?
Chill Solo so a few places can cause a clunk, typical clunk on something this old can be a bad bushing in the upper A-arm or lower control arms. Next culprit that is typical on a WJ is the upper A-arm ball joint, yes there is actually a ball joint in there are crazy as that may sound. And finally a loose shock bolt or even a bad shock if you retained the original shocks. Sometimes problems with worn out parts won’t show until they are lifted because now everything is riding in a different place and/or more stress is on the existing components and it’s making the problem more evident where you may have not really noticed it before. Look everything over and try and find the issue, it should lie in one of the areas I listed above.
@@BenTheJeepGuy You're right it was my A-frame control arm AND ball joint. I'm heading back to the parts store now. THANK YOU!!
Chill Solo happy to help man! If you post any photos to IG, tag me! Would love to see your rig!
did you put 33 or 35 in tyres on your jeep???
Victor Ferrera the tires we put on the WJ are a metric size, stock size for Rubicon JK Wranglers, but they come out to a 32.1 inch tall that is about 10 inches wide. I wanted to increase the lift to 4 inches and get some 33s under it but sadly we don’t have it anymore, it was totaled in an accident.
Ben The Jeep Guy did you have to do any trimming? To fit those 32’s
iphone3gsdivine I didn’t have to trim around the rear tires but I definitely had to trim up front. I had to cut and fold the pinch seam at the rear of the wheel well and I had to trim a significant amount off the bottom of the front bumper and I had to trim a lot of the front of the plastic inner fender liner. I planned to buy some “Overland” factory style replacement coil springs that would have given it an additional 1” of lift and cleared the tires a little better. A 4” lift would have been perfect for this size tire
Ben The Jeep Guy what kind of tire are those? they look good.
iphone3gsdivine they are BF Goodrich Mud-terrain KM1 from a JK Wrangler Rubicon. I’m not sure if they still make them or not but there are Nitto Trail Grapplers that are similar in appearance if you like this particular tread pattern. I have the BFG KM3 tires on my XJ and love them! I also have the BFG KO2 tires on my truck and they are very nice as well!
I'm ordering everything right after this comment! Is there anything else that I'll need? You really seem to know what you're doing so your advice would be definitely appreciated
dirk d well I guess advice depends on you experience and skill level. If this is one of your first times working on your Jeep or any vehicle for that matter, we may have to move to an email conversation haha but if you have done work before this should be a breeze! If you live in a state that salts the roads in the winter, you are going to have a bad time. Triple your install time and plan for difficulty with rusted bolts and fasteners! Also salt states get this the worst, the front lower coil spring buckets rust out on these Jeeps so you may discover that as a problem and it will need to be addressed. There are weld on and bolt on solutions to fix this that I can provide information for if you need it. And GET AN ALIGNMENT! I cannot stress that! Once your are done, run it to the shop and have the steering alignment performed. There is the chance you may develop death wobble after install. If that’s the case if may be fixed through the alignment. If the steering alignment and the wheels and tires balancing have been done, you may have other front end parts that are worn out that are now being stressed more with the added lift height and bigger tires. Good luck and don’t hesitate to reach back out! If you have IG, tag me in a completed photo! Would love to see your rig!
Pretty lucky she's actually pretty clean but I'll live at the beach so she won't be for long. I was wondering if you had any problems with the drag link or track bar and I also saw where some people said the transfer case needed offset. My wife's letting me do it but only if it doesn't get out of control lol
Thank you for your reply
dirk d so you shouldn’t need to do anything with the transfercase at 2.5” of lift. The only thing that MIGHT become an issue is with the front driveshaft. It is hit or miss if you get “the good one” or “the bad one.” The good one is a traditional u-joint driveshaft with a double cardan joint at the transfercase. The bad shaft is the one with Rezeppa joints at either end. They do not like sharp angles that can come with lifting the Jeep. Now 2.5” is not a lot of lift so you may be able to get away with it if you have the rezeppa driveshaft but just be prepared that if you do have it, it may be a problem in the future but if you are not afraid to hit the local junkyard, you may be able to find the correct driveshaft to convert. Now the track bar and drag link will be just fine. Only thing you might have to do is replace the tie rod ends in the drag link and tie rod because that might be where the death wobble comes from if they are old and worn out and you develop death wobble after the lift. The other place you may get death wobble from if you end up developing it is in the track bar from worn out rubber bushings. Don’t buy a cheap stock track bar. I tried that and wore out the bushings. Now it’s more work but Moog makes a Problem Solver bushing kit for the WJ track bar that replaces the cleverest rubber bushings with a firmer polyurethane bushing at each end. You can replace them at home with hand tools, a big hammer, and a sawzaw! Made a big difference in our WJ.
Ben The Jeep Guy good morning and I'm sorry to bother you again. I can't get any real good clear answers. I'm going to 4-wheel my WJ a little bit so am I better off just going with 2.5 higher Springs then new shocks?? I've been looking for the answers and getting a lot of mixed messages
I have a 2001 Laredo, standard size tires. I am getting ready to put a 2 inch rough country lift. New sway bar links, springs. I've heard stories of trouble with transfer case even with a 2 inch lift, like vibration or general other noise. My Jeep has 113k, in good shape for age. Did you have any issues after this with yours? Thank you!
A 2 inch lift shouldn’t cause too many driveline vibrations unless your front driveshaft has the Rezeppa joints instead of u-joints. Rezeppa joints don’t like to be at hardly any angles that result from a lifted vehicle. T-case should be just fine though. You may experience some death wobble depending on a lot of factors but if your steering, ball joints, control arms, track bar, and/or tires are worn out, a lift stresses these parts more than at stock ride height so if there is any play in these parts, the lift will exacerbate the issues to where it results in death wobble. So that’s just a possibility, not quite a guarantee, every Jeep, especially older ones, react different to being lifted. And a lot of that has to do with what shape it’s in over all.
@@BenTheJeepGuy Thank you for the detailed reply! I use to have a 2000 Cherokee and know exactly what you are talking about with the "death wobble". Fortunately, I don't have any vibration or anything feeling loose right now. I'll throw the lift on and deal with it if it comes. I'm assuming with the current mileage on mine, that everything is mostly original. Thanks Ben!
@@BenTheJeepGuy Also, the Rezepa joints you mentioned would obviously be aftermarket correct?
@@mavx318 my pleasure man, happy to help! Hopefully the low miles work in your favor. I often see failures come up more because of age rather than mileage but that still depends on the climate that the vehicle lives in. Southern climates are more forgiving. Northern climates can be a little harder in vehicles, so it varies. Tag my in your post on IG, if you post anything, I’d love to see it when it’s finished!
@@mavx318 nope, Rezeppa is factory, same style joint that plagues the JK Wranglers with issues when they lift their Jeeps too. Jeep couldn’t make up their minds with which model of WJ got with style of joints in the front driveshaft and sometimes the front driveshaft had a Rezeppa at one end, and a u-joint at the other. But you want a Double Cardan, u-joint style slip driveshaft for your’s if you don’t have it. You can buy kits or you can just hit your local junkyard and grab the shaft and the two yokes, one off the axle and one off the t-case.
What rims are those?
Karl Silva, Jr Moto Metal MO951
@@BenTheJeepGuy what are the rim size, width & back spacing?
Karl Silva, Jr 17x9 with 4.53 backspacing but they don’t make the 5x5 lug pattern in this wheel anymore
Could I fit 33 with this
Ethan Pinto nope, not without cutting the genders and then maybe you could squeeze them in but you would have any flex for off-roading. Our tires came out to 32.1” and they barely fit and I had to do a bunch of trimming on the front bumper and I had to do the pinch seam gold mod to get the tires where you could actually turn them.
@@BenTheJeepGuy whats the min lift size for 33
Ethan Pinto you might be able to fit them with 3.5” of lift but really you need atleast 4” of lift
Zone makes a great and affordable 4” kit
@@BenTheJeepGuy thanks can you share a link
Doing a budget boost does give you more clearance, but you get what you pay for.
Yup, we got exactly what we paid for, a budget-friendly ride height increase for larger tire fitment on a daily driver.
@@BenTheJeepGuy For 10 times more the money and a lot more work you can get a much better ride.
@@pennypackmtb2542 paired with the right shocks, it actually rode really nice. We went with Monroe Relfex monotubes on this build and it performed perfectly, took several road trips and lots of daily driving without any issue. We now have a Zone 4” kit on our latest WJ and ride quality is similar but obviously a bit stiffer due to the higher spring rate coil springs compared to the factory coil springs. And by the way, 10 x $150 = $1500. Our Zone 4” kit + Bilstein 5100 series shocks still didn’t cost more than $850 altogether, so it’s completely possible to achieve a good ride quality with a budget friendly kit. There is a kit that fits every budget and every need. This kit was good for my wife at the time because she didn’t go offroad and wanted to fit the set of wheels and tires that I got for free because her tires were all worn out. It rode good, performed well for how it was used, and was at a price point we could afford at the time.
@@BenTheJeepGuy Understood. I was hoping it all worked out. I have seen where the control arms get pushed to the angle to where they bind up instead of absorbing the bump.
But the shocks you used are really good for performance.
body lift or suspension lift sorry
No apologies necessary, this can be confusing stuff, especially if you are new to it all. So spacer lifts like this one are considered suspension lifts because the lift is added by means of increasing the ride height of the suspension, where a body lift adds lift but spacing the body off the frame via plastic spacers. Another thing to note, for unibody vehicles, the frame and body are all one piece so you cannot install a body lift on a unibody vehicle. The Cherokee XJ and all the Grand Cherokees, including the WJ, are all unibody vehicles so suspension lifts are the only option for these Jeeps. I never recommend body lifts anyways, they increase the center of gravity without ping anything to prevent the sway of the vehicle due to this increased height. This makes them dangerous in my opinion. Plus the idea that the body is lifted up via some plastic spacers for the body to sit on, I’m not a fan. I have seen photos of vehicles that were in a wreck with a body lift and the body went one way while the chassis/frame went another way. Suspension lifts are just better and safer.
@@BenTheJeepGuy thanks
Start looking for a new front bumper cover. Tell your wife the odometer is off because of those over sized wheels
The miles actually were not off. I purchased the Superchips programmer that allows us to adjust the speedometer. I adjusted it and verified it via GPS. The bumper cover I already had because I planned to replace it when I updated to the 2004 Header, Grill, and Bumper. But sadly we the Jeep was totaled before I had the chance to do all of that!
This fuckin guy.....
You forgot a few important things....
Svein Hanssen is love to hear it! If I overlooked including something I will make sure that I remember it in the next lift kit video
@@BenTheJeepGuy Before lifting or lowering a car, all suspension arm bushing bolts or nuts need to be loosened. And then tightened again with the full weight of the car on the axles or wheels. Including all control arms, sway bar link mounts and the track bar. For the rear A-arm a spacer is the best way to go when installing this type of lift kit. This will ensure a longer and better life for all the rubber bushings.
Svein Hanssen not saying you are wrong, I have never heard of loosening all the control arm bolts and such and I have worked along side ASE certified techs and been doing this for 17 years and never done it and never had a problem. I do always tighten down the ones I do loosen when vehicle weight is on then. The spacer isn’t necessary until you go over 3” of lift and we took a gamble that it would survive and it has.
@@BenTheJeepGuy All rubber bushings will have a shorter life and will not work as designed if they are not adjusted when the suspension angles are changed. Including those on the rear A-arm. This is common knowledge and also included in most of the lift kit installation instructions.
Tool
Daniel Pierson lol aw my first hate comment! Look at you making history! 😉
It was a decent video until the idiotic background music.
I get it, it’s not for everyone and I can’t plead everyone with the genre of background music. Hope you at least found the information helpful.
It looks great do you still have your Jeep?
That one was unfortunately totaled, but we have another 2002 WJ, Overland model and we put a 4” lift on that one with some 33s that I hope to get a video up soon of. But thank you for the compliments man!