Router Table Upgrade!
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2023
- ⚙️ EPISODE #211: There’s always been a frustrating little quirk to router tables, one that can block you from doing truly accurate work. And it’s an especially annoying issue when working with smaller pieces. In this episode I shine the spotlight on the problem, and reveal a simple solution for solving it. After seeing this fix you will no longer struggle with precision on your router table. You will be the master of the machine! Should be fun, and as usual I’ll answer any questions you may have as we stream live in living color. Hope you can stop by the shop!
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LIVE EVENTS are filmed in the shop of Tom McLaughlin, host of TV's Classic Woodworking and Shop Night Live. Tom loves to pass on the craft of woodworking by creating projects to present in live video form backed by his over 30-years of experience making fine custom furniture.
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Nothing like a simple, straight-forward solution to a vexing problem that will have a lot of us thinking, Why didn't I think of that?
Thanks, Tom! And with that, I'll subscribe.
I got the INCRA version of Mast-R-Lift II which is made in Canada by JessEm but has magnetic metal inserts that are height adjusted by set screws. There is still a benefit with your bottom fence in creating a seamless smooth surface, and the potential of creating a contoured bottom fence when needed.
A simple and effective solution to a sometimes vexing problem. Nicely done! 👍👍
Thanks Jerry, I like simple and effective 😎
Ok. I'm makin an auxiliary router fence because I've noticed this issue. Thanks for sharing this tip.👍👍
Thought this was my problem, Mahalo for solving this frustrating time in my shop.
I’m glad to hear I’m not alone too 😎 My pleasure, thanks for watching 👍
I have same JessEm router lift(LOVE IT) in a Kreg table. My JessEm inserts do not cause a hump but are ever so slightly recessed, 0.0025" to be exact. Thanks for your well thought out and demonstrated approach to getting around the issue when needed.
Great info Tom. Thx for the video
Well done & excellent router table solution! I definitely will be making that auxiliary fence! 👍👍
So happy I watched this! Thanks for sharing this. Perfect
My pleasure! Thanks for watching 👍😎
Very slick & wise jigging, Tom. Thank you!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it! 👍😎
Nice and easy solution. Tha ks for solving my frustration.
My pleasure, thanks for watching! 👍😎
Some of the best ideas are the simplest! Thanks!
Ain’t that the truth! 😎👍
Cool idea , thanks👍
Thank you for sharing
I have aluminum inserts that sit flush in my system . P S , have learned so much from your videos and have enjoyed using your plans ( purchased) over the years! Thanks
thanks
,a cool video keep up the great content.. Thank you……
Very nice and clever solution. Thank you so much.
Thank you, glad you found it useful 👍😎
Nice solution - thanks for sharing! I use the Incra version of the Jessem router lift with the metal magnalock inserts which are quite nice - but still not zero clearance like this solution.
Thanks, I’ll check them out! 👍
Nice trick! I think I missed how you secured the table side piece to the the router table. Double sided tape? I don’t think it would be a good idea to just pinch it with the vertical fence.
I would clamp the piece to be cut to a board that rides the top of the fence to keep it from dropping into the throat. Same with the table saw. I like your way also.
Nice Work-Around. I guess my thought would be - " If you are shopping for a router lift, purchase one with metal inserts that fit properly, meaning no difference between the lift surface and the inserts." Sure, you pay more money, but your need for an auxiliary fence would be eliminated. BUT - this fixes the issue with most router lifts. Nice job.
Which one would that be? Also, there are many other important features in a router lift to consider besides the inserts, and even if your inserts are dead flush you wont have a zero clearance opening in your fence like you do with this auxiliary fence. That’s pretty important when you’re working with end-grain, especially on an assembled drawer front that you’ve already meticulously dovetailed. Making special jigs, fences, sleds, and zero-clearance inserts is a requisite aspect of the craft. My question to you would be, if you prefer paying someone money for a ready-made product that you could have made yourself with a piece of scrap wood and 1/10th of an ounce of glue in 10 minutes, what is it that interests you in woodworking at all? There’s nothing that comes out of a woodworking shop that can’t simply be purchased from someone else, but doing it with your own hands is kind of the whole point, isn’t it?
@@wulf67 Very good point.
What causes the plastic insert to bow up
Seems like it just started out with a less than flat surface. Thanks 👍
I built my own router table and installed leveling screws to level that plate which is held in place by four magnets. I can level any and all plates I with few turns of the screws.
How do you make the opening in your fence have zero clearance with the dovetail bit to prevent tear-out of the end grain?
@@wulf67 Use a backer board or rout before cutting to final size.
@@peterszutu555 Is this fence not exactly what you're calling a "backer board?" And how would you route an edge profile before you cut to final size? And if you did/could, how would that in any way prevent tear-out of the end grain?
I think she found it funny because you said put it away in a box, figuring like other things you put away in boxes...
Thanks for another common sense solution!
Not to be critical but is the orange-ish (1970’s) lighting on purpose?
Wow, thanks for letting us know, the settings must have changed on us somehow. We’ll check it out and see if we can clear up that groovy scene! 😎👍