Amateur, ham-fisted, backyard mechanic here: After watching many other youtube vids about surface prep I finally feel like I've seen the one I needed to with this video. Thank you, sir.
During years of work on aluminum motorcycle engines I learned that a piece of copper tubing, flattened at one end and sharpened to a bevel with a file makes a good scraper that doesn't damage aluminum if any care at all is used.
This was a good take. I see a lot of people saying to use the power tools or a scotch-brite pad, but it's a silly thing to do especially when manufacturers advise highly against it. I'll listen to engineers over random guys on a forum any day. Props to you.
Don't forget to chase every bolt thread with a clean old bolt before blowing air in them. Will make sure no sealant or gunk are in the threads. Great video
I'd be curious to hear back from you if it fails and how long it lasted. Lots can be gotten away with but that doesn't mean it's the right way to do it. Heck if you get 50k+ mi on it and its still good let me know, would be impressive but at the low cost of a gasket I still would rather replace it.
I use the same, carbon scraper and brake clean with a lint free rag. Fastest, easiest, cheapest approach I have found over the past 20 years. I do confess, I use the carbon scraper on the aluminum head as well. I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND NOT doing that, but I know what I am doing. Do it wrong and it'll look like your shoveling snow with aluminum particles.
Finally somebody who is doing a head gasket prep properly. GM actually has a service bulletin against using those 3m roloc adapters. Also don't use scotch guard red pads. This guy knows what he is doing. Well done sir.....
I have never removed or dissembled an engine before. It all started with a rear crankshaft seal leak and before I knew it I had the entire engine torn down. That said, I am now getting ready to re-assemble my Mercedes 560SL engine and I feel your videos will be helpful. I have been documenting the process because nobody on the Internet has ever documented the rebuild of the M117 engine. This has been the scariest thing I have ever done. I sure hope my engine starts.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I started a video series on my RUclips channel documenting the entire process. I’ll be uploading a new video in the next hour or so on how I cleaned & polish the valves. I did it a little differently than other’s I’ve seen.
The scraper is all I've ever used or known anyone to use. They have been around since the 50's or before. I didn't know people had started using power tools. But definitely agree no power tools unless machining.
The super scraper by name didn't come out till the early to mid 2000s I believe. Other putty knife styles where around but the carbide edge style didn't become common till little after then. Sad thing is still many lazy or uninformed techs will still use those darn wiz wheels...
Great video. Can anyone please tell me if most of the cheaper options for "carbide tipped scraper" on Amazon are acceptable to use for this? The ones linked are over $70, snd there are many that look exactly the same for like $20, and they are carbide tipped as well. I work on my vehicles in my garage and will not be using this tool often. Also, if just buying 1 size of these what is the best size to get?
Don't like them at all. They still have abrasives in them that come off and they make the surface uneven because there is no way to consistently apply even pressure.
is sanding with 2000 grit sand paper not necessary once the surface has been scraped and a straight edge and feeler gauge has been checked for flatness?
You should never use sand paper on the surface of a block. The micro grit that is simply glued on there is basically tiny little rocks. It comes off the paper easily. Technically no abrasives should be used.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepairthx for the info. my engine is a vg33e from a nissan cast iron block. the surface is flat and smooth but it definitely seems to have some black residual gasket material making rhe surface very smooth. other videos have said thst i should aim for an Ra valie between 40-100 and anything too smooth is not good for a typical compound gasket. wanted to get your thoughts on the Ra value for the surface finish range required
@@lexi-conby well 2000 grit would be dang near a polished finish but would also lead to deviation in the block beside my previous mentioned issue. The RA that you are mentioning is in reference to a machining process. When the engine is still assembled you can't achieve a specific RA. Your best bet is to just get a super scraper like I used. Then clean it off with a little brake clean after you're done scraping it.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thx. Though i probably could compress air all that out along with the gasket material, i ended up not sanding it. I just used a nice scraper i inherited feom my late father, razor blades, non-abrasive scouring pad, towels and brake cleaner. It’s not shiny but incan see orig machine marks and flatness is good to .02mm which exceeds the tolerance of .1 mm max. I figure if i end up needing to sand in the future i can do it again but if i sand now and end up with issues, i can never unsand the block
Nothing beats super scraper. The problem with those white ones is they are so wimpy that you can't clean the surface off unless you concentrate on it really hard. This means you're going to cause deviations anyway even though it's such a light duty rolock.
I was Cleaning my cylinder head with a razor and accidentally put in a very small gouge in it that you can barely feel with a fingernail but not on a sealing surface. Will I need to have it resurfaced?
before I scrape the silicone off an aluminum engine block, and aluminum oil pan. I go to one of these videos hoping someone says that I can use one of these green 3m wheels. they never do, and I painstakingly scrape all the gasket. every. time.😭
Lot's of great videos, but around 10:00 you start talking about making the surface better than the factory surface finish. If you're changing the finish, you're removing block deck material. If people try improving the finish, it's going to create problems and especially done in the vehicle. Just clean it up by removing gasket material and debris.
The only thing I'm referencing with that is the crazy high spots on the crude machine they cut it with in Mexican. You can literally see and feel the high inconsistent cutting done. I improve the finish from factory all the time with proper decking. This was basically a precise flat edge scraper removing gasket material nothing more. Unfortunately due to the decks uneven nature from the factory it also will trim some of those high spots down as it's trying to match the low spots since it's a flat precision scraper.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair . Thanks man , one last thing . Would you apply thread sealant to the head bolts ? Do they enter the water jacket area ? Thanks
@@EverydayJ1786 Take an old head bolt, grind a line down the side of it with a cutoff wheel about 3/8" deep. Chase all your holes with that. Make sure you blow all the coolant out of the head bolt holes or you'll crack the block. I install them dry.
@@markjones2558 that's why it takes so long. Old school scrapers suck big donkey balls. Been there, did it for years before I had carbide scraper. The old scrapers or razor blades still have there place though. But its more for the glued on paper and that's is horrible no matter what you do.
Amateur, ham-fisted, backyard mechanic here: After watching many other youtube vids about surface prep I finally feel like I've seen the one I needed to with this video. Thank you, sir.
During years of work on aluminum motorcycle engines I learned that a piece of copper tubing, flattened at one end and sharpened to a bevel with a file makes a good scraper that doesn't damage aluminum if any care at all is used.
That's not a bad idea as long as its soft copper. Thanks for the input...
This was a good take. I see a lot of people saying to use the power tools or a scotch-brite pad, but it's a silly thing to do especially when manufacturers advise highly against it. I'll listen to engineers over random guys on a forum any day. Props to you.
Don't forget to chase every bolt thread with a clean old bolt before blowing air in them. Will make sure no sealant or gunk are in the threads. Great video
Getting ready to drop a new head and gasket on my TDI and this was the most helpful of all videos I found. Thank you!
I just did a DOD delete on my truck. All I did was prep around cylinders and reused the MLS head gasket.
buttoned that all up truck runs great🤘
I'd be curious to hear back from you if it fails and how long it lasted. Lots can be gotten away with but that doesn't mean it's the right way to do it. Heck if you get 50k+ mi on it and its still good let me know, would be impressive but at the low cost of a gasket I still would rather replace it.
I use the same, carbon scraper and brake clean with a lint free rag. Fastest, easiest, cheapest approach I have found over the past 20 years. I do confess, I use the carbon scraper on the aluminum head as well. I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND NOT doing that, but I know what I am doing. Do it wrong and it'll look like your shoveling snow with aluminum particles.
Great video!
Finally somebody who is doing a head gasket prep properly. GM actually has a service bulletin against using those 3m roloc adapters. Also don't use scotch guard red pads. This guy knows what he is doing. Well done sir.....
Thank You. Always worth investing a bit of time learning rather than just diving in and making a catastrophic / expensive screw up
I have never removed or dissembled an engine before. It all started with a rear crankshaft seal leak and before I knew it I had the entire engine torn down. That said, I am now getting ready to re-assemble my Mercedes 560SL engine and I feel your videos will be helpful. I have been documenting the process because nobody on the Internet has ever documented the rebuild of the M117 engine. This has been the scariest thing I have ever done. I sure hope my engine starts.
I believe I did a video series on a Benz v8, not the m117 though.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I started a video series on my RUclips channel documenting the entire process. I’ll be uploading a new video in the next hour or so on how I cleaned & polish the valves. I did it a little differently than other’s I’ve seen.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepairassume we prep the heads surface the same way?
@@teabag402 best to have heads resurfaced and a valve job done.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair got it
Question, you don’t have to tape the oil galleys ? Or coolant passages? What happens to all the stuff that gets down in there ???
You make much sense and have great tips. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
This video deserves more view! good information
The scraper is all I've ever used or known anyone to use. They have been around since the 50's or before. I didn't know people had started using power tools. But definitely agree no power tools unless machining.
The super scraper by name didn't come out till the early to mid 2000s I believe. Other putty knife styles where around but the carbide edge style didn't become common till little after then. Sad thing is still many lazy or uninformed techs will still use those darn wiz wheels...
Good vid,, BTW what brand head gasket you using ?
I prefer the GM OEM head gaskets.
Great video. Can anyone please tell me if most of the cheaper options for "carbide tipped scraper" on Amazon are acceptable to use for this? The ones linked are over $70, snd there are many that look exactly the same for like $20, and they are carbide tipped as well. I work on my vehicles in my garage and will not be using this tool often. Also, if just buying 1 size of these what is the best size to get?
I use a belt sander with 60 grit works every time
how do you feel about using Scotch Brite pads and elbow grease? Like the rectangular pads that don't have adhesive on them
Don't like them at all. They still have abrasives in them that come off and they make the surface uneven because there is no way to consistently apply even pressure.
Hi.
On m.l.s head gaskets. Do you think it's wise to dress gasket with Hylomar before fitting?.
I never do and never have an issue unless vehicle is well over 1100hp. Even if that high of HP it will take a bad tune before it leaks.
is sanding with 2000 grit sand paper not necessary once the surface has been scraped and a straight edge and feeler gauge has been checked for flatness?
You should never use sand paper on the surface of a block. The micro grit that is simply glued on there is basically tiny little rocks. It comes off the paper easily. Technically no abrasives should be used.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepairthx for the info. my engine is a vg33e from a nissan cast iron block. the surface is flat and smooth but it definitely seems to have some black residual gasket material making rhe surface very smooth. other videos have said thst i should aim for an Ra valie between 40-100 and anything too smooth is not good for a typical compound gasket. wanted to get your thoughts on the Ra value for the surface finish range required
@@lexi-conby well 2000 grit would be dang near a polished finish but would also lead to deviation in the block beside my previous mentioned issue. The RA that you are mentioning is in reference to a machining process. When the engine is still assembled you can't achieve a specific RA. Your best bet is to just get a super scraper like I used. Then clean it off with a little brake clean after you're done scraping it.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thx. Though i probably could compress air all that out along with the gasket material, i ended up not sanding it. I just used a nice scraper i inherited feom my late father, razor blades, non-abrasive scouring pad, towels and brake cleaner. It’s not shiny but incan see orig machine marks and flatness is good to .02mm which exceeds the tolerance of .1 mm max. I figure if i end up needing to sand in the future i can do it again but if i sand now and end up with issues, i can never unsand the block
What do you think of one of those white/grey 3m Roloc discs on an iron block?
Nothing beats super scraper. The problem with those white ones is they are so wimpy that you can't clean the surface off unless you concentrate on it really hard. This means you're going to cause deviations anyway even though it's such a light duty rolock.
I was Cleaning my cylinder head with a razor and accidentally put in a very small gouge in it that you can barely feel with a fingernail but not on a sealing surface. Will I need to have it resurfaced?
You should anyway, I just posted this today for reference ruclips.net/video/RTHlmj8FVbY/видео.html
Thanks so much brother 👍
*_SUPER SCRAPER, THAT IS AMAZING!!_*
What do you think about copper wool?
The link to the super scraper shows out of stock and discontinued. What do you suggest?
Be sure to let me know If you want more gasket related videos?
CrazedPerformanceRepair do you have any videos of putting rivets in those 8 oil towers because that is part of some dod deletes.
@@arireid1245 I would never think do that. If it is to block the holes I would simply buy the non DOD valley cover it typically cost less than $60
CrazedPerformanceRepair appreciate that I just seen another one of your videos I will just strip the stock valley cover like you did.
I used a green scotch bright pad am i screwed some particles probly got in the motor 😢
Clean things as best you can. Hopefully it was on an LS based engine. Those run oil into the filter first so it can prevent such a thing from damage.
before I scrape the silicone off an aluminum engine block, and aluminum oil pan. I go to one of these videos hoping someone says that I can use one of these green 3m wheels. they never do, and I painstakingly scrape all the gasket. every. time.😭
Get a carbide scraper, they are worth every penny.
Lot's of great videos, but around 10:00 you start talking about making the surface better than the factory surface finish. If you're changing the finish, you're removing block deck material. If people try improving the finish, it's going to create problems and especially done in the vehicle. Just clean it up by removing gasket material and debris.
The only thing I'm referencing with that is the crazy high spots on the crude machine they cut it with in Mexican. You can literally see and feel the high inconsistent cutting done. I improve the finish from factory all the time with proper decking. This was basically a precise flat edge scraper removing gasket material nothing more. Unfortunately due to the decks uneven nature from the factory it also will trim some of those high spots down as it's trying to match the low spots since it's a flat precision scraper.
The company that manufactures this carbon scraper is evasive about disclosing warranty info on this product. It's a bit pricey for a small hand tool.
Never had to deal with warranty on them but even if I had to just buy a new one it's so worth the money.
What is the name brand of that scraper?
See description
Thanks man
I use plastic scraper just to be extra safe
Do you ever recommend chasing threads on head bolt holes ?
Chasing yes taping no but if the bolts have lock tight like LS based engines typically do yes It is a good idea for sure.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair . Thanks man , one last thing . Would you apply thread sealant to the head bolts ? Do they enter the water jacket area ? Thanks
@@EverydayJ1786 Take an old head bolt, grind a line down the side of it with a cutoff wheel about 3/8" deep. Chase all your holes with that. Make sure you blow all the coolant out of the head bolt holes or you'll crack the block. I install them dry.
@@EverydayJ1786 no they do not they also already have stuff on the factory bolts
@@mph5896 nice I like that idea , I've done that to clean up spark plug threads with aluminum heads
zoom in for clarity.
Awfull lota time on scraping gaskits this is a difficult fix if they cant scrape a gasket well
Doesn't take much time at all.
Hahahaha
Just old school we did it by hand and feel hand scraper
@@markjones2558 that's why it takes so long. Old school scrapers suck big donkey balls. Been there, did it for years before I had carbide scraper. The old scrapers or razor blades still have there place though. But its more for the glued on paper and that's is horrible no matter what you do.
Duh 🙄
lol right