I can't even imagine how these sound in a ported box! If ANYONE is able to build this in the state of GA or the surrounding states, I'll buy this off of you ASAP and come pick it up!
Thanks for taking the time to make a decent video that covers start to finish and the order to enter stuff in win ISD. Slot of stuff on the internet isn't thorough and frustrating to get good info if you know what I mean. So thanks!
your great so articulate in your explanations . all your videos are so descriptive .you deserve more views. you give us know how. from start to finish.
Love the vids you do. Really helps us newbies trying to learn. I thought using the arc on my avm60 would make everything perfect but it doesn't and I was really disappointed but had a friend do some rew on it and wow, now I'm excited. After seeing your vids on rew I know I have more to do. Thanks for the lessons. Best I've seen so far. I like how you don't skip things and realize there is a big crowd who really need the help. Thanks
Just built one of these to replace an old wharfedale mx sub I was using. Obviously the difference is night and day between the 2 but I wasnt expecting this much bass from a 12". So just a thank you from me, now I have the D.I.Y bug and will be looking at building other subs of varying size. (I have access to cnc machines and lots of free MDF)
@@hometheatergurus thanks. Paired it with the berhinger nx3000d, setup the HPF before anything else. Now learn what peq settings I can change to dial it in more
The video was very very very informative. I built 3 of these by watching your videos. 1 with the original build with single split port and another with a folded split port and the 3rd sealed Obviously I ran into the same problem you did but I went forward with the split folded port 1st and non folded port 2nd. Tuning on the split folded port is much lower and I love it. Wish I could send you a pic but I had to thank you for the videos. Glad you made this
The port was in a fold formation in the video. But he changed that. I kept it the way he had it in the video. The port folds over itself. I haven't measured but it hits lower because I built 3. One with the 24" port. The other 2 with the 40" port. I haven't bought my umik yet so I can't measure.
wow thanks for your layout. i would like to try this out. I'm painstakingly searching for a quick diy guide of the box. thankfully i came across your vid.
This looks like the first box I built with a jigsaw and circular saw. It's great to have a belt sander when you don't know how to make cuts or square boxes. With speakers especially it doesn't really matter in the end.
Water is water, just go out in the ditch and find you some ditch water🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 I love it when a person manages to make you laugh while still giving you very valuable information. Well done.
im going to build your design. Thank you so much for the detailed instructions! I have already built a pair of North Creek Music Borealis main speakers but need a bit more lower end for listening. One question I have is that the bracing in my NCM Borealis' has round holes that have the edges rounded over to prevent chuffing. Can the window pane brace also use this method? It might be a bit easier for me to cut out with a hole saw.
Sounds like you've got some diy skills. There's no need to round off braces as there's not nearly enough air velocity passing over a brace at any time to cause any noise at all. Just hit it with some sand paper and install. Now ports you can round over if the port velocity is close to a near audible speed and it can help. These sub ports are not audible so no need but you can. See the community tab from the channels page as there's an updated cut list.
Hi, Great Build. Thanks. I couldn't find the link you referred to at about 16:00 minutes regarding the optional stand/feet isolation. Is it still around?
just had a buddy of mine cut up two boxes - he has a cabinet shop, and the MDF he used is crazy harder than the stuff at Lowes or Home Depot....hard to describe, but there is a difference with a quality MDF
I like this build and was contemplating an off shoot build, but I was curious about the port brace. Won’t this brace act as a port given its length? Would spaced dowels be a better brace with less acoustical impact to the pot tuning frequency?
Thanks! If u watch the ep where we molded the enclosure it has dual ports. If you remove the brace you have to adjust the port length for one port and yes it will change the length quite a bit. There's no positive gain removing the brace. It was designed pretty much perfect to get the intended performance. Googling hammer diy sub you'll see it's gained a lot of popularity due to its performance.
@@hometheatergurus Thanks. I must have missed the description of the design incorporating dual ports. SO the I am curious about the brace being inset instead of flush with the face. I assume that is to achieve the desired dual port tuning?
Some important videos I'm looking forward to, is how much amplifier power your subwoofers need to have. And a video on setting up house curves with the Audyssey app, both for subs and speakers. 😎
In one of your earlier videos you mentioned you started out building with sonotubes. Is there a reason why you are building a box version as opposed to a cylinder version now?
20 years ago there were no kits. Most every DIY sub guy designed his own sub. Sonotube subs were everywhere. SVS was selling them lot hot cakes too. They were very easy to build and you could make them look really cool. These days they're just less popular. Rectangular subs are easier to fit in tight spaces and have a higher WAF. I also like rectangular because I like a more challenging build. That said the Sono Subs performed every bit as well if you designed it right.
@@hometheatergurus Haha. I guess WAF is a big factor. Do the Sonotubes lack the rigidity of the box enclosures? I've seen some tall tubes and wondering how they could possibly be as rigid. I've played with science demonstrations where the tube tuned to the correct harmonic amplifies the wavelength so much. But I guess those demos were of ported designs. I would think a well tuned tube sub of the same volume, offer better acoustic amplification. Just trying to research and understand the differences between the two.
Thanks for all the content on your channel. It’s very helpful. I was wondering. When I’m able to I’m going to build this sub. Do you think something like flex seal is a good idea for all of the interior corners and seams? Or is it not necessary?
You're welcome. It's not needed if the cuts are good as wood glue seals it up but sometimes they aren't great cuts so insurance can't hurt. I've sealed plenty that didn't need it.
Thanks. I don't make them but if you Google "hammer subwoofer" you'll see it has gained a following. Several have used the cut sheet to build their own. At one time GSG audio was also making flat packs of it.
I want two of these to replace my Klipsch R-12sws, but I'm wondering if there is a lot to be gained if the driver was a 15" or if the performance over cost makes it not worth it. I'm still combing thru the videos and I need to dig into winisd myself. Great video!
Why did you position the box upside down ? The port was supposed to be to the right But now it's on the botton Does it affect the bass ? Can i position mine as i want as well ?
@@hometheatergurus i also designed mine as the same as yours But my port fits inside at the back of the box Can i also change the position of my box with the port being at the bottom or should i place it as i designed it with the port on the right panel ?
Hey man amazing channel for someone like me... I loved going to the movies 1x a week then COVID... but because of your content I have found a new hobby. Few months ago all I knew was Bose... now I got 2 DIY subs glued up, drying in garage with 3 HT2 flatplacks on deck. Everyday I look forward to getting in my theater or in my garage to do some more work, I didn't have that fulfillment before so thank you. But I have a seal issue, need advice. I tried 50/50 glue water but the annoying little gaps just soak it up. Can I use my PL premium to cover the outside joints and flattening the bead with my finger for good seal inside and out? Or should I use water putty that I saw you had in Exohyde video? I want to do it the best/right way and I appreciate any help.
That's Awesome man! Love hearing stuff like this. The glue mix is just to soak in and seal the edges. It doesn't fill gaps. Use a filler like bondo, spackle, water putty or similar. Fill, let dry and sand smooth.
This Dayton UM-12 has a max power of 1200 watts and an RMS of 600 Watts. The AMP is only 500. Will this be a problem? I assumed you'd need a 1000 watt amp for this driver. I'm newer to this stuff so anyone who could explain this would be greatly appreciated!!
Great build. This may have been asked but what is the cubic feet for this ported box? I'm curious to know if it will work with my subwoofer. Thanks again
If using brad nails and glue do you still need to clamp once its all together or do the brad nails apply enough force to get the glue to bond to the mdf properly?
I don't use clamps unless I have a panel that needs to be forced into place. Glue and brads are all you really need but a clamp on hand just in case is a good idea. The clamps have really become popular as DIY kits have blown up and people don't have air compressors and brad nailers but can run to Lowes and grab some clamps.
First thing awesome channel you have, learned much from you videos. I been wanting to upgrade from PB-1000. And decided I'd try you Hammer sub. And since I can build 2 of these for the same price as 1 PB-2000Pro were im from. I think its the way for me. One question though. Can I use a Dayton SPA250 or SPA500 plate amp instead og the Bash 500D? Since the Dayton has 230v power, used in Europe were im from, and the Bash is only 120v?
Thanks. I like both. This is more a living room sub. It's good for high output in an open area with little room gain but isn't going to extend much under 20hz. A sealed sub Imo is better for a room thats sealed off where you get room gain help and want to extend as low as possible.
Do you remember the cutout diameter you used for the baffle MDF and plywood? Parts Express says 11" for baffle cutout, but the mm measurement of the spoke diameter they have is 11.22".
Would you advise against using a couple of these for a dedicated theater room? Room is 18W x 24L x 12H. I'm not a huge bass enthusiast so I don't want to be moving my chairs, just want something that gives a little bit of pressure.
Ohh yeah they'll do fantastic and probably have more output than you expect. If you're building them look in the channel community tab for updated version 2 cut sheet. Or order a flat pack from the GSG email in the video description which is also the version 2.
@@hometheatergurus Does the speaker wire gauge matter much for these? Been loving your videos. Never realized how little I knew about setting up a theater!
Hey man, I'm looking to start doing some more DIY, and this seems like a great project. I'm wondering if it makes a difference what kind of router I use (fixed base or plunge), and if there are any essential specs I'd need. I've never used this tool before, so I want to have a good idea before making a purchase.
I much prefer a plung router. Especially when making multiple passes and going a little deeper with each. It's faster. Just make sure the clamping or holding mechanism doesn't allow it to walk lower. Some especially an old Dewalt I had would do that.
Would there be much negative to using the 12" HO 4+4 ohm driver? I have a 100wpc @4ohm amp that I wanted to use, could get 200 watts with that HO but only 100 with the ultimax.
Theres an updated version. Look in the channels community tab for the updated cut sheet. I raised the tuning a tad as ground plane came back a hair under 20hz and I wanted it tuned right at it. Port is now 1.5" and a tad shorter.
@@hometheatergurus Thank you for your reply, Steven. I have a few more questions. I will be glad if you answer. 1- What should be the size of the chi square holes on the Window Brace? I could not find an answer for these. 2- Is it better to use 2" rock wool or acoustic sponge as insulation? Thank you.
@@umitatestr you're welcome. For the brace I'd just make the brace about 1.5" thick for the cross sections. For cabinet lining don't use foam or sponge. I'd use r13, denim or rockwool. See ep 40 for more info on what to do after the cabins is built. It covers insulation, wiring etc.
@@hometheatergurus Thank you Steven. I'm trying to adjust my ingredients. When I finish my project, I will be sharing it on the facebook group. In your previous message, you made a note like "See ep 40 for more info on what to do after the cabins is built. It covers insulation, wiring etc." Can you share link?
If I wanted to install a plate amp does that affect the cubic foot of the box? This is a general question not necessarily related to your box build but spec'ing out a build and want to consider all options. I don't have an external amp at this time
Sure it's better to have a lower ratio but in real world testing you can go above without issue to a point. I've measured the hammer which is 1:11.8 and it's response is stellar and without change or signs of compression at levels close to xmax. In the flat pack that will soon be out it's been bumped to 1:9.8
You mentioned the simplified vent in the video which is good, since I was wondering how the rear mounted amp would fit as it was originally configured using the subbox.pro website. You said that the new vent length bumps up the tuning frequency a bit. Do you recall what that frequency is, for those of us trying to follow along in WinISD?
Winisd is a tad off with slot ports as it doesn't account for the side wall of the cabinet extending the port so it was originally a tad lower than 20hz verify in REW. The version 2 tuning is at 20hz. That cut sheet can be found in the channels community section. The bash plate Amp fits fine in either.
@@hometheatergurus do you have advice as far as the required settings on the Bash amp for best performance? What about a filter to protect the driver from damage? (I can't remember if that's called high pass or low pass :-)
@@urgonnah8this ep 9 covers plate Amp setup but as far as the hpf (high pass filter) that video will soon be out but in a minidsp you'd set a filter at around 17hz and BW 48db /octave
@@hometheatergurus I apologize for my ignorance, but Is there any way to protect the driver from ultra low frequencies if we don't have a minidsp, such as some sort of passive inline crossover? I've built a version of The Hammer and it works great, but I don't want to break it.
What is the distance between the port and back? Also for some reason winisd doesn’t let you model with Linkwitz-Riley 48db per octave, so how did you know that the driver is going to be safe when pushed to the limit?
We know where the sub is tuned and we can see the filter and where the cut begins in the Minidsp plug in and the amount of cut it applies at a given frequency. We're setting it to begins little above tuning but it's also an aggressive filter. You can definitively do a less aggressive filter but I'd be careful. The cut sheet is in the video but the back opening is actually a small continuation of the port.
this 12inch ported or sealed sub with 15inch ultimaxx sealed driver?which is better?also could you give dimensions for 15 inch ported cabinet?does the glue you used makes any major difference?in india we may not get that so. thanks for your great video series.
The um15 requires a large enclosure to go ported. So big you may as well go with the um18 at that point so I don't recommend the 15. Which is better between a sealed 15 and this ported 12? Well thet depends on your goals. Above 20 hz this one is louder. The sealed will have an advantage lower. I cover sealed vs ported in the winisd tutorial video.
@@hometheatergurus thanks for the reply, your subwoofer optimization videos are one of the best home theater videos in you tube. my bass response has been improved so much by following your guidelines. almost flat response in my living room(thanks to you) .watching your videos from 1st episode,great stuff man. never thought of diy, until you showed that it is not so difficult. i wanted to build couple of sub woofers for my dedicated home theater (around 3000cft). main requirement is for action ,scifi movies.should i go for 2 12inch ported like yours or 2 sealed 15inch or 2 ported 15inch?looking for best bang for the buck setup. 18inch driver shipping from usa to india would be difficult so looking between 12inch or 15inch. a single external amplifier with dsp would be better?will i get usable output till 15-16 hz?my rsl speedwoofer 10s goes till 24hz ?will these diy subs have same soft sounding bass like rsl?
@@hometheatergurus I am contemplating exactly the same as Chandan cg. Just build this sub you built which seem great and easy enough or go with a sealed 15 or 18 inch which probably will require a lot more power? I have a sealed room, It doesn't have to be loud it needs to be tight and quick and go low. Cheers
@@chandan6119 it's not a simple answer really.. If you have a sealed room and you want low and I assume by low you mean under 15hz sealed will get you there but you may need 4 or more depending on your levels. I know guys with basically hammers (subs I designed for them based on the um12) and 2 are pretty brutal but of course they aren't listening at reference. I'd say it's similar to pb13 performance. If you are in an open concept room and want output down to 20hz id choose the hammer or if you want more output a full Marty of devestator type sub for extreme output. A ported sub modeled like the hammer doesn't need room gain and is flat to 20hz before it even begins falling at all. I'll be using 4 hammers stacked in a tower system with tow hammers per tower once my new house is built. They'll be in a very large open area that's roughly 30x40. But now in my theater I was thinking sealed for low end extension but now I'm leaning toward a pair of horn subs. BTW the Hammer may be available in a CNC'd flat pack very soon.
Glue shrinks over time. You can sand a glued MDF joint to perfection and there will be a line there, a couple of weeks later. I leave MDF projects under the heat lamp for a week, or so, to fix that problem before painting. Does PL Premium shrink, also? Perhaps it's the adhesive I should be using to improve my process. Thank you for the great content.
How low can it go? Can it compete with the pb13 from svs:) Planing on building two of these or one tymphany stw-350 in a ported box.. Can u tell me whitch is a better alternativ?
Good lord 8th order Highpass? I'd think you'd be better off with something like a 2nd order Butterworth with a 20Hz +2.5dB PEQ Q2.0 for a lower group delay from the filters. On 600w all the same protection. Or is this to lower the port air velocity way down from the high 30+ m/s under 20Hz?
Sanding/cutting in the house, make sure you have a shop vac or Dyson and just know, it's gonna take many many passes to get it all, LOL! Gah, I still have nightmares.
@@budgetaudiophile6048 in my last house I used a scissor lift to get them upstairs before the railing went on a section of the upstairs. They weighed 180lb before the drivers went in. Never again.. 😂
@@hometheatergurus OH LORD! HAHAHAHAHAHAHA! My last big build, I had to get my GF to help move it down to the basement, from then on, I just said "screw it" and did all of my builds in my storage area.
Awesome! As for the cut sheet I may get a forum thread going but for now they're at the end of the video. You'll have to go old school and screen shot it. 😁
I almost used a dayton 500w plate Amp with dsp for the hammer but decided not to at the last minute. It looks interesting. I'm really a fan of the Mindsp 2x4s because a lot of what you need to do with the dsp is align subs and you don't want to have to go back and forth connecting to multiple plate amps dsp. It would be very time consuming and a major headache. The Mindsp makes it too easy as you have full control of 4 sub in one interface.
Thank you so much!!! I've been watching all your videos so far and subscribe to your awsome channel! Because of you, I was able to achieve great sound in my HT. Almost flat curve between 20 and 100 Hz! Thanks again, I've working on that since years and finally I got it!!! Now, I'm looking to build this Hammer! BUT, The Dayton UM22-12 is BO until March 31. I would have love to do this project during Christmas vacations! Could you suggest any driver as good or better as replacement?
Hello. I have a Dolby Atmos Cinema room with a 5.2.2 installed system. I will add a Dayton Audio RSS265HE-22 10" Reference Series High Excursion Subwoofer 2+2 ohm to my cinema room. I want your help on this issue. I love deep bass hits. The device whose name I wrote is 800 watts RMS. 1600 watts power. What kind of box should I make for this device? How can I adapt the box in the video to 10'' or how should I not make a box for 10'' so that I can hear the deep bass. I would be very happy if you can help me. I wish you a good day.
Thanks. I don't build to sale. I just don't have the time. For those that don't want to build their own I recommend a local cabinet shop. Bring them the cut sheet and pics at the end and have them cut it and build it for you.
Hello HT Gurus . I feel like I'm the last person to see your channel. I'm trying to binge watch as much as possible. Your channels is priceless . I saw your 6ft tall subwoofer build , I'm trying to replicate this using the Stereo Integrity HS-24 ,can you help with a proper build plan for this box. I don't want to screw it up 😥😢. Thanks so much and maybe Im a foul because you probably answered this on video
Thanks Oshola. That was a 12 cube net box tuned to 17hz. It was around 6'x 2'x 18" deep. If you look in the Playlists you'll one on subs. There's one in winisd which can help you get the box perfected then one after that to get the look you want and build it.
hey what up i have a 15'' audiopipe driver i would like to build a box for it and use it as a sub but i can fine the specs can u help me with the size of the box TXX-N1500 is the model of the speaker dual voice coil can u help me
you dont need insulation on a ported enclosure... its for sealed boxes that are slightly too small, it causes mechanical dampening that allows the sub to move more, causing a larger output.
You are correct, the resonant frequency are above any frequencies the sub will be playing. I mention it's not needed in the video. As for sealed that's not why sealed subs are stuffed. Thanks for watching.
I was planning on copying this but shrinking it a few % for my 10 inch. Unless somebody here tells me I'm making a terrible mistake in the next few days lol
We have a video on using winisd to model an enclosure. If you're using a um10 for example, the box can be less than half this size for a 20hz tune. Modeling the driver and designing a box for it is pretty important. The video on winisd walks you through it.
Speed. Screws require predrilling and it's harder to hide screw holes. Glue and brads are super fast. You can actually glue and clamp as the glue is strong enough alone but it takes too long for me to wait for glue to set as you have to wait for panels to dry to move on to the next set of panels. So I use glue and brads to get through it quick. A lot of furniture and cabinet makers use this method as well. Once you try it you'll be sold. Used to use screws but it's been along time ago.
@@hometheatergurus Thanks for your reply. If you don't mind I do have 1 more question. I'm thinking about doing a diy subs for behind my theater seats. I'm also looking at the dayton subs. Should I go with a ultimax 10 or a dayton high output 10. I'm going to be making a 1 cubic ft sealed box for them 2 separate boxes. Your diy made me want to get my hands dirty
@@brnmaull the um10 actually models very well in a 1 cube box tuned to 22 hz or so. I've modeled it again the HO but the UM just performs better. If you're just wanting some tactile experience the Dayton BST-1 transducer is also a great option.
cool build but i would never use fiberglass insulation. that shit will blow all over your floors and literally get everywhere. i cant stand insulation as it makes me itch at the sight of it lol. id use anything but fiberglass insulation.
Please, Please do not use fiberglass insulation. It is a skin, eye and throat irritant that can be ejected from the port into your living space. Do Use fiber fill found in pillows and soft stuffed animals you let your kids play with. You don't let you kids play in the wall do you? Fiber fill can be found in the crafts department of big box stores. Think about it, you don't sleep on a pillow of fiberglass. You do sleep on a pillow of hypoallergenic polyester fiber fill.
Don't look in your HVAC vents, in every supply box and plemium. They're lined with semi rigid and rigid fiberglass duct board. Just saying. I've never once had any dust issues around subs. But I agree we should use what we are comfortable with.
Still my Fav build for a home theater sub enclosure
I can't even imagine how these sound in a ported box! If ANYONE is able to build this in the state of GA or the surrounding states, I'll buy this off of you ASAP and come pick it up!
Best home theater Channel by far !
Thanks!
It goes over the insulation, what to use, why you may pick blue jean over other options and why you need it.
Thanks for taking the time to make a decent video that covers start to finish and the order to enter stuff in win ISD. Slot of stuff on the internet isn't thorough and frustrating to get good info if you know what I mean. So thanks!
This build is glorious. I think imma try it. Really nice job on the explanation.
This is definitely the best theater channel on YT. Super useful info.
Thanks! Yeah it's a little beast. I'll be building the flat pack on the channel very soon too.
Thanks again for the theater designs and taking the time to answer all my questions. I can't wait to see how it all turns out!
You're welcome. And it's gonna be awesome!
your great so articulate in your explanations . all your videos are so descriptive .you deserve more views. you give us know how. from start to finish.
Thanks you!
Love the vids you do. Really helps us newbies trying to learn. I thought using the arc on my avm60 would make everything perfect but it doesn't and I was really disappointed but had a friend do some rew on it and wow, now I'm excited. After seeing your vids on rew I know I have more to do. Thanks for the lessons. Best I've seen so far. I like how you don't skip things and realize there is a big crowd who really need the help. Thanks
Thanks you so much Pete! I love hearing my videos have been helpful
Just built one of these to replace an old wharfedale mx sub I was using. Obviously the difference is night and day between the 2 but I wasnt expecting this much bass from a 12". So just a thank you from me, now I have the D.I.Y bug and will be looking at building other subs of varying size. (I have access to cnc machines and lots of free MDF)
Awesome! Yeah its a sleeper for sure. You don't expect the kind of output it delivers. Don't forget ep 40 for the HPF setup.
@@hometheatergurus thanks. Paired it with the berhinger nx3000d, setup the HPF before anything else. Now learn what peq settings I can change to dial it in more
The video was very very very informative. I built 3 of these by watching your videos. 1 with the original build with single split port and another with a folded split port and the 3rd sealed Obviously I ran into the same problem you did but I went forward with the split folded port 1st and non folded port 2nd. Tuning on the split folded port is much lower and I love it. Wish I could send you a pic but I had to thank you for the videos. Glad you made this
hi what do you mean the split folded port? do you have a photo? how low you get?
The port was in a fold formation in the video. But he changed that. I kept it the way he had it in the video. The port folds over itself. I haven't measured but it hits lower because I built 3. One with the 24" port. The other 2 with the 40" port. I haven't bought my umik yet so I can't measure.
wow thanks for your layout. i would like to try this out. I'm painstakingly searching for a quick diy guide of the box. thankfully i came across your vid.
Awesome. Check out the channels community tab as there's a version 2 cut sheet. You'll love it. also make sure and check out ep 40/41 to set the HPF.
Nice looking sneak peak at the finish!
This looks like the first box I built with a jigsaw and circular saw. It's great to have a belt sander when you don't know how to make cuts or square boxes. With speakers especially it doesn't really matter in the end.
yeah same here. that brings back memories of building subs on the kitchen counter. I used to use a lot of caulk..:)
Water is water, just go out in the ditch and find you some ditch water🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I love it when a person manages to make you laugh while still giving you very valuable information. Well done.
😁
Real nice man. Loved how thorough you were. Great stuff
Thanks. Build videos are definitely more fun to make.
Home Theater Gurus I bet so. Fun to watch too.
What grit sanding pads?
am going to make 2 of this..thank you sir so whats the final hertz still 18.5 hertz?
If you watch his other vids a high pass of 20hz is used
great job sir. Cant wait for next episode
Thanks!
im going to build your design. Thank you so much for the detailed instructions! I have already built a pair of North Creek Music Borealis main speakers but need a bit more lower end for listening. One question I have is that the bracing in my NCM Borealis' has round holes that have the edges rounded over to prevent chuffing. Can the window pane brace also use this method? It might be a bit easier for me to cut out with a hole saw.
Sounds like you've got some diy skills.
There's no need to round off braces as there's not nearly enough air velocity passing over a brace at any time to cause any noise at all. Just hit it with some sand paper and install.
Now ports you can round over if the port velocity is close to a near audible speed and it can help. These sub ports are not audible so no need but you can. See the community tab from the channels page as there's an updated cut list.
Awesome video and very informative.
Hi, Great Build. Thanks. I couldn't find the link you referred to at about 16:00 minutes regarding the optional stand/feet isolation. Is it still around?
is it possible to achieve the same thing in a smaller box? i would like to put this in a vehicle
just had a buddy of mine cut up two boxes - he has a cabinet shop, and the MDF he used is crazy harder than the stuff at Lowes or Home Depot....hard to describe, but there is a difference with a quality MDF
Yeah I use cabinet grade Mdf as well. Makes the stuff at Lowes /home depot look cheap in comparison.
The stuff your buddy uses is probably HDF. “High density fiberboard as opposed to MDF “medium density fiberboard .”
I like this build and was contemplating an off shoot build, but I was curious about the port brace. Won’t this brace act as a port given its length? Would spaced dowels be a better brace with less acoustical impact to the pot tuning frequency?
Thanks! If u watch the ep where we molded the enclosure it has dual ports. If you remove the brace you have to adjust the port length for one port and yes it will change the length quite a bit.
There's no positive gain removing the brace. It was designed pretty much perfect to get the intended performance. Googling hammer diy sub you'll see it's gained a lot of popularity due to its performance.
@@hometheatergurus Thanks. I must have missed the description of the design incorporating dual ports. SO the I am curious about the brace being inset instead of flush with the face. I assume that is to achieve the desired dual port tuning?
Awesome build and great vid, well done indeed.
If going for a down firing setup, where would you ideally position the slot?
Thanks. You can position it anywhere even down as long as the sub is lifted enough to not extend the port by restricting air flow.
@@hometheatergurus Great. Thanks for the quick response. Legend!
I'm super impatient, so brad nails/tac screws are my go-to!
Some important videos I'm looking forward to, is how much amplifier power your subwoofers need to have.
And a video on setting up house curves with the Audyssey app, both for subs and speakers. 😎
Soon.. 😎
Thank you for the tutorial sir...
I would like to know how to spray orange peel sir
In one of your earlier videos you mentioned you started out building with sonotubes. Is there a reason why you are building a box version as opposed to a cylinder version now?
20 years ago there were no kits. Most every DIY sub guy designed his own sub. Sonotube subs were everywhere. SVS was selling them lot hot cakes too. They were very easy to build and you could make them look really cool. These days they're just less popular. Rectangular subs are easier to fit in tight spaces and have a higher WAF. I also like rectangular because I like a more challenging build. That said the Sono Subs performed every bit as well if you designed it right.
@@hometheatergurus Haha. I guess WAF is a big factor. Do the Sonotubes lack the rigidity of the box enclosures? I've seen some tall tubes and wondering how they could possibly be as rigid. I've played with science demonstrations where the tube tuned to the correct harmonic amplifies the wavelength so much. But I guess those demos were of ported designs. I would think a well tuned tube sub of the same volume, offer better acoustic amplification. Just trying to research and understand the differences between the two.
hope you will do another video with performance and driver excursion
I'm sure I'll have one soon with a clip of it doing some flexing!
Will this work for the Ultimax 2?
Thanks for all the content on your channel. It’s very helpful. I was wondering. When I’m able to I’m going to build this sub. Do you think something like flex seal is a good idea for all of the interior corners and seams? Or is it not necessary?
You're welcome. It's not needed if the cuts are good as wood glue seals it up but sometimes they aren't great cuts so insurance can't hurt. I've sealed plenty that didn't need it.
Fiberglasinsulatin in bassreflex!! Happy birthday . All little fiber in your living room.
Plz Can u recommend a box plan as simple diy as this project for a 18inch sub. The box to be tuned for 20hz .?
great video.....will this box build be good for any 12'' sub there are a few car audio subs that im looking at..?...i like the box desingn......
Thanks! It's designed just for the um12. Other drivers may or may not work well. You'd have to model them in this enclosure to see.
@@hometheatergurus ok ty.....what do use use to find out what enclosure works with what sub..?...thanks
Great job!! I have a huge problem cutting angles and can't seem to get them right so I always stick to square or rectangular enclosures..
Nice build! How many of these hammers have you produced now?
Thanks. I don't make them but if you Google "hammer subwoofer" you'll see it has gained a following. Several have used the cut sheet to build their own. At one time GSG audio was also making flat packs of it.
Hello, just wondering what the internal volume is, and what is the port tuned at?
It's been a while but it's around 2.5 cubes and 20hz. You can see this enclosure modeled in the videos before this.
I want two of these to replace my Klipsch R-12sws, but I'm wondering if there is a lot to be gained if the driver was a 15" or if the performance over cost makes it not worth it. I'm still combing thru the videos and I need to dig into winisd myself.
Great video!
I am building with red oak, will the half water half glue step work with it or will it affect wood grain
Why did you position the box upside down ?
The port was supposed to be to the right
But now it's on the botton
Does it affect the bass ?
Can i position mine as i want as well ?
I designed it. It goes in what ever orientation I choose.
@@hometheatergurus i also designed mine as the same as yours
But my port fits inside at the back of the box
Can i also change the position of my box with the port being at the bottom or should i place it as i designed it with the port on the right panel ?
Hey man amazing channel for someone like me... I loved going to the movies 1x a week then COVID... but because of your content I have found a new hobby. Few months ago all I knew was Bose... now I got 2 DIY subs glued up, drying in garage with 3 HT2 flatplacks on deck. Everyday I look forward to getting in my theater or in my garage to do some more work, I didn't have that fulfillment before so thank you. But I have a seal issue, need advice. I tried 50/50 glue water but the annoying little gaps just soak it up. Can I use my PL premium to cover the outside joints and flattening the bead with my finger for good seal inside and out? Or should I use water putty that I saw you had in Exohyde video? I want to do it the best/right way and I appreciate any help.
That's Awesome man! Love hearing stuff like this.
The glue mix is just to soak in and seal the edges. It doesn't fill gaps. Use a filler like bondo, spackle, water putty or similar. Fill, let dry and sand smooth.
This Dayton UM-12 has a max power of 1200 watts and an RMS of 600 Watts. The AMP is only 500. Will this be a problem? I assumed you'd need a 1000 watt amp for this driver. I'm newer to this stuff so anyone who could explain this would be greatly appreciated!!
Not at all. We applied simulated power in the winisd tutorial video when this sub was designed.
@@hometheatergurus hey thanks for the response! I will go check out that video!
Is this setup any good for music or is this a just home theater sub?
It's awesome for music. Super clean and hits like a hammer! If a sub is only good at one but not the other it's not a good sub.
Great build. This may have been asked but what is the cubic feet for this ported box? I'm curious to know if it will work with my subwoofer. Thanks again
If using brad nails and glue do you still need to clamp once its all together or do the brad nails apply enough force to get the glue to bond to the mdf properly?
I don't use clamps unless I have a panel that needs to be forced into place. Glue and brads are all you really need but a clamp on hand just in case is a good idea. The clamps have really become popular as DIY kits have blown up and people don't have air compressors and brad nailers but can run to Lowes and grab some clamps.
@@hometheatergurus I ended up gluing and clamping to hold in place while brad nailing and then removed the clamps. Worked a treat
What grit did you use to sand the mdf please ?
For the MDF I would have been around 120-150.
First thing awesome channel you have, learned much from you videos.
I been wanting to upgrade from PB-1000. And decided I'd try you Hammer sub. And since I can build 2 of these for the same price as 1 PB-2000Pro were im from. I think its the way for me.
One question though. Can I use a Dayton SPA250 or SPA500 plate amp instead og the Bash 500D?
Since the Dayton has 230v power, used in Europe were im from, and the Bash is only 120v?
Thanks and absolutely you can use a Dayton 500w Amp.
As for the SP 2000, the hammer will easily outperform it.
Do you sell them boxes
Very informative video👍🏼
Thinking of building a pair of sealed 18s🤔
Any reason why you prefer ported subs to sealed Steven?
Thanks. I like both. This is more a living room sub. It's good for high output in an open area with little room gain but isn't going to extend much under 20hz.
A sealed sub Imo is better for a room thats sealed off where you get room gain help and want to extend as low as possible.
can i use it with subs with less than 500w rms the likes of pioneer 3003d4, kenwood hqrs and sony gsx series?
The driver would have to be modeled to verify
Do you remember the cutout diameter you used for the baffle MDF and plywood? Parts Express says 11" for baffle cutout, but the mm measurement of the spoke diameter they have is 11.22".
It's definitely close to 11" I just built mine based on the 11.22 MM and it had a bit of "slop" at just over 11"
Would you advise against using a couple of these for a dedicated theater room? Room is 18W x 24L x 12H. I'm not a huge bass enthusiast so I don't want to be moving my chairs, just want something that gives a little bit of pressure.
Ohh yeah they'll do fantastic and probably have more output than you expect.
If you're building them look in the channel community tab for updated version 2 cut sheet. Or order a flat pack from the GSG email in the video description which is also the version 2.
@@hometheatergurus Does the speaker wire gauge matter much for these? Been loving your videos. Never realized how little I knew about setting up a theater!
@@trevorprescott3040 I'm using 14 gauge inside the box with the BASH amp and it performs great!
any alternatives to the dayton um-12? They are out of stock until 3/31/21. @HomeTheaterGurus
I put an alternative in the description. Sucks they're out of stock for so long.
wow thats awesome build :) i hope when im ready mine is half decent to yours
There may be a CNC flat pack available very soon!
Can you tell me what size box high, Dee or lanth and how many W amplifier?
Awesome build.
Can you recommend plate amp that is 220-240v power supply.
We run on 220v in Australia and the bash plate is only available in 110v
Hey man, I'm looking to start doing some more DIY, and this seems like a great project. I'm wondering if it makes a difference what kind of router I use (fixed base or plunge), and if there are any essential specs I'd need. I've never used this tool before, so I want to have a good idea before making a purchase.
I much prefer a plung router. Especially when making multiple passes and going a little deeper with each. It's faster. Just make sure the clamping or holding mechanism doesn't allow it to walk lower. Some especially an old Dewalt I had would do that.
Would there be much negative to using the 12" HO 4+4 ohm driver? I have a 100wpc @4ohm amp that I wanted to use, could get 200 watts with that HO but only 100 with the ultimax.
I've modeled both drivers several times and while they will both work in the hammer enclosure the um outperforms the ho.
1.25 inch port brace width measure correct?
Theres an updated version. Look in the channels community tab for the updated cut sheet. I raised the tuning a tad as ground plane came back a hair under 20hz and I wanted it tuned right at it. Port is now 1.5" and a tad shorter.
@@hometheatergurus Thank you for your reply, Steven.
I have a few more questions. I will be glad if you answer.
1- What should be the size of the chi square holes on the Window Brace? I could not find an answer for these.
2- Is it better to use 2" rock wool or acoustic sponge as insulation?
Thank you.
@@umitatestr you're welcome. For the brace I'd just make the brace about 1.5" thick for the cross sections.
For cabinet lining don't use foam or sponge. I'd use r13, denim or rockwool.
See ep 40 for more info on what to do after the cabins is built. It covers insulation, wiring etc.
@@hometheatergurus Thank you Steven. I'm trying to adjust my ingredients. When I finish my project, I will be sharing it on the facebook group.
In your previous message, you made a note like "See ep 40 for more info on what to do after the cabins is built. It covers insulation, wiring etc."
Can you share link?
@@umitatestr here ya go.
ruclips.net/video/yERhYj5Dwr8/видео.html
How is the hammer with an 15" Ultimax? Is it possible to bulid at bit larger, and get good results?
If I wanted to install a plate amp does that affect the cubic foot of the box? This is a general question not necessarily related to your box build but spec'ing out a build and want to consider all options. I don't have an external amp at this time
questions if the port V is 27ms at its peak say 17hz does it matter if the port ratio is 1:13 vs the rule of thumb 1:1- 1:8?
Sure it's better to have a lower ratio but in real world testing you can go above without issue to a point. I've measured the hammer which is 1:11.8 and it's response is stellar and without change or signs of compression at levels close to xmax. In the flat pack that will soon be out it's been bumped to 1:9.8
I would love to see a real world between this 12” and a 15” Marty box. What is the dB output difference at 20hz?
The Marty uses an 18 not a 15. The marty will definitely have an output advantage.
The 18 is the popular one. They list a 15” non roundover marty on the GSG Audio website. Just a little smaller than the 18” mini marty. FYI
I've calculated the tuning and everything of my box with no port bracing. If I add port bracing now will it affect anything in any meaningful way?
You mentioned the simplified vent in the video which is good, since I was wondering how the rear mounted amp would fit as it was originally configured using the subbox.pro website. You said that the new vent length bumps up the tuning frequency a bit. Do you recall what that frequency is, for those of us trying to follow along in WinISD?
Winisd is a tad off with slot ports as it doesn't account for the side wall of the cabinet extending the port so it was originally a tad lower than 20hz verify in REW. The version 2 tuning is at 20hz. That cut sheet can be found in the channels community section.
The bash plate Amp fits fine in either.
@@hometheatergurus do you have advice as far as the required settings on the Bash amp for best performance? What about a filter to protect the driver from damage? (I can't remember if that's called high pass or low pass :-)
@@urgonnah8this ep 9 covers plate Amp setup but as far as the hpf (high pass filter) that video will soon be out but in a minidsp you'd set a filter at around 17hz and BW 48db /octave
@@hometheatergurus I apologize for my ignorance, but Is there any way to protect the driver from ultra low frequencies if we don't have a minidsp, such as some sort of passive inline crossover? I've built a version of The Hammer and it works great, but I don't want to break it.
@@urgonnah8this Does your receiver has any customization to the EQ?
What is the distance between the port and back?
Also for some reason winisd doesn’t let you model with Linkwitz-Riley 48db per octave, so how did you know that the driver is going to be safe when pushed to the limit?
We know where the sub is tuned and we can see the filter and where the cut begins in the Minidsp plug in and the amount of cut it applies at a given frequency. We're setting it to begins little above tuning but it's also an aggressive filter. You can definitively do a less aggressive filter but I'd be careful.
The cut sheet is in the video but the back opening is actually a small continuation of the port.
Home Theater Gurus yeah but how much is the distance between the lower port and rear of the sub, you left a distance for the port, is it 1.25”?
@@Azzy_Mazzy 3/4 of an inch... Usually 3/4 or 1 inch port and at least 18-24 inch's you will get 20hz - 30 hz...
Could this box work great in the car?
Sure, however if you watched the REW tutorial you could tune it higher like say 25hz and make it a good bit smaller.
How much money does this actually save you when you compare it to a similar SVS?
$1500. It'll hang if not best a pb4000. Of course if you want a "pretty" sub svs is a good looking sub and u pay for that.
@@hometheatergurus Dam I gotta check this out in that case. A PB4000 you say?
this 12inch ported or sealed sub with 15inch ultimaxx sealed driver?which is better?also could you give dimensions for 15 inch ported cabinet?does the glue you used makes any major difference?in india we may not get that so. thanks for your great video series.
The um15 requires a large enclosure to go ported. So big you may as well go with the um18 at that point so I don't recommend the 15.
Which is better between a sealed 15 and this ported 12? Well thet depends on your goals. Above 20 hz this one is louder. The sealed will have an advantage lower. I cover sealed vs ported in the winisd tutorial video.
@@hometheatergurus thanks for the reply,
your subwoofer optimization videos are one of the best home theater videos in you tube. my bass response has been improved so much by following your guidelines. almost flat response in my living room(thanks to you) .watching your videos from 1st episode,great stuff man. never thought of diy, until you showed that it is not so difficult.
i wanted to build couple of sub woofers for my dedicated home theater (around 3000cft). main requirement is for action ,scifi movies.should i go for 2 12inch ported like yours or 2 sealed 15inch or 2 ported 15inch?looking for best bang for the buck setup. 18inch driver shipping from usa to india would be difficult so looking between 12inch or 15inch. a single external amplifier with dsp would be better?will i get usable output till 15-16 hz?my rsl speedwoofer 10s goes till 24hz ?will these diy subs have same soft sounding bass like rsl?
@@hometheatergurus I am contemplating exactly the same as Chandan cg. Just build this sub you built which seem great and easy enough or go with a sealed 15 or 18 inch which probably will require a lot more power? I have a sealed room, It doesn't have to be loud it needs to be tight and quick and go low. Cheers
@@hometheatergurus hi could you please reply for this comment
@@chandan6119 it's not a simple answer really.. If you have a sealed room and you want low and I assume by low you mean under 15hz sealed will get you there but you may need 4 or more depending on your levels. I know guys with basically hammers (subs I designed for them based on the um12) and 2 are pretty brutal but of course they aren't listening at reference. I'd say it's similar to pb13 performance. If you are in an open concept room and want output down to 20hz id choose the hammer or if you want more output a full Marty of devestator type sub for extreme output. A ported sub modeled like the hammer doesn't need room gain and is flat to 20hz before it even begins falling at all. I'll be using 4 hammers stacked in a tower system with tow hammers per tower once my new house is built. They'll be in a very large open area that's roughly 30x40. But now in my theater I was thinking sealed for low end extension but now I'm leaning toward a pair of horn subs.
BTW the Hammer may be available in a CNC'd flat pack very soon.
I don't know anything about subs ,but I'm curious ,is all these measurements necessary? Can I make it approximately?
You need to model the driver and build what you modeled as close as possible to get the repsonse you created.
Glue shrinks over time. You can sand a glued MDF joint to perfection and there will be a line there, a couple of weeks later. I leave MDF projects under the heat lamp for a week, or so, to fix that problem before painting. Does PL Premium shrink, also? Perhaps it's the adhesive I should be using to improve my process. Thank you for the great content.
How low can it go? Can it compete with the pb13 from svs:)
Planing on building two of these or one tymphany stw-350 in a ported box.. Can u tell me whitch is a better alternativ?
Good lord 8th order Highpass? I'd think you'd be better off with something like a 2nd order Butterworth with a 20Hz +2.5dB PEQ Q2.0 for a lower group delay from the filters. On 600w all the same protection. Or is this to lower the port air velocity way down from the high 30+ m/s under 20Hz?
What size Brad nails are you using and length?
I used 1.5" when I built mine.
Is there a place that I can purchase this kit? I looked on GSG but do not see anything called the hammer.
See the description for ordering info
Sanding/cutting in the house, make sure you have a shop vac or Dyson and just know, it's gonna take many many passes to get it all, LOL! Gah, I still have nightmares.
Ohh so you did that too? Now there's two of you I know that did that! 😂
@@hometheatergurus LOL! Don't tease . . .some of us don't have the arm-fortitude to carry 90lbs cases up and down stairs :'(
@@budgetaudiophile6048 in my last house I used a scissor lift to get them upstairs before the railing went on a section of the upstairs. They weighed 180lb before the drivers went in. Never again.. 😂
@@hometheatergurus OH LORD! HAHAHAHAHAHAHA! My last big build, I had to get my GF to help move it down to the basement, from then on, I just said "screw it" and did all of my builds in my storage area.
Is there a link to dl the cuts list ? This has been wife approved lol
Awesome! As for the cut sheet I may get a forum thread going but for now they're at the end of the video. You'll have to go old school and screen shot it. 😁
Where can i get some of that ditch water? :-)
I'll send you some rain so you can make your own! 😜
Can you recommend a plate amp with DSP?
I almost used a dayton 500w plate Amp with dsp for the hammer but decided not to at the last minute. It looks interesting.
I'm really a fan of the Mindsp 2x4s because a lot of what you need to do with the dsp is align subs and you don't want to have to go back and forth connecting to multiple plate amps dsp. It would be very time consuming and a major headache. The Mindsp makes it too easy as you have full control of 4 sub in one interface.
Thank you so much!!! I've been watching all your videos so far and subscribe to your awsome channel! Because of you, I was able to achieve great sound in my HT. Almost flat curve between 20 and 100 Hz! Thanks again, I've working on that since years and finally I got it!!!
Now, I'm looking to build this Hammer! BUT, The Dayton UM22-12 is BO until March 31. I would have love to do this project during Christmas vacations! Could you suggest any driver as good or better as replacement?
Hello. I have a Dolby Atmos Cinema room with a 5.2.2 installed system. I will add a Dayton Audio RSS265HE-22 10" Reference Series High Excursion Subwoofer 2+2 ohm to my cinema room. I want your help on this issue. I love deep bass hits. The device whose name I wrote is 800 watts RMS. 1600 watts power. What kind of box should I make for this device? How can I adapt the box in the video to 10'' or how should I not make a box for 10'' so that I can hear the deep bass. I would be very happy if you can help me. I wish you a good day.
Can you help me with this measurement ?
Can i have a 3d plan for this sub?
Search it on sketchup I have modeled it there.
How much db do you have your speakers, and how much db do you have your subwoofer?
Damm looks good man! How much you charge.
Thanks. I don't build to sale. I just don't have the time. For those that don't want to build their own I recommend a local cabinet shop. Bring them the cut sheet and pics at the end and have them cut it and build it for you.
Hello HT Gurus . I feel like I'm the last person to see your channel. I'm trying to binge watch as much as possible. Your channels is priceless . I saw your 6ft tall subwoofer build , I'm trying to replicate this using the Stereo Integrity HS-24 ,can you help with a proper build plan for this box. I don't want to screw it up 😥😢. Thanks so much and maybe Im a foul because you probably answered this on video
Thanks Oshola.
That was a 12 cube net box tuned to 17hz. It was around 6'x 2'x 18" deep. If you look in the Playlists you'll one on subs. There's one in winisd which can help you get the box perfected then one after that to get the look you want and build it.
@3:48, the glue is changing colors. lol. Idk if it's something with my computer screen or what, but it tripped me up
Also . . .I spy with my little DIY eye . . .a sexy ram sitting in the background getting some screentime as an extra in this movie ;)
Yeah the black beast helped with the build! 😁
hey what up i have a 15'' audiopipe driver i would like to build a box for it and use it as a sub but i can fine the specs can u help me with the size of the box TXX-N1500 is the model of the speaker dual voice coil can u help me
you dont need insulation on a ported enclosure... its for sealed boxes that are slightly too small, it causes mechanical dampening that allows the sub to move more, causing a larger output.
You are correct, the resonant frequency are above any frequencies the sub will be playing. I mention it's not needed in the video.
As for sealed that's not why sealed subs are stuffed.
Thanks for watching.
Some of your links don't work anymore
Yeah parts express changed affiliates. I need to update them.
I was planning on copying this but shrinking it a few % for my 10 inch. Unless somebody here tells me I'm making a terrible mistake in the next few days lol
We have a video on using winisd to model an enclosure. If you're using a um10 for example, the box can be less than half this size for a 20hz tune. Modeling the driver and designing a box for it is pretty important. The video on winisd walks you through it.
PL and no gloves! Brave man!
I peel it off, skin and all.. 😁
Steve, your channel is amazing. So much quality info. I want to hire you for some home audio consultation. I sent you an email.
Best,
James
Why use Brad nails instead of screws?
Speed. Screws require predrilling and it's harder to hide screw holes. Glue and brads are super fast. You can actually glue and clamp as the glue is strong enough alone but it takes too long for me to wait for glue to set as you have to wait for panels to dry to move on to the next set of panels. So I use glue and brads to get through it quick. A lot of furniture and cabinet makers use this method as well. Once you try it you'll be sold.
Used to use screws but it's been along time ago.
@@hometheatergurus Thanks for your reply. If you don't mind I do have 1 more question. I'm thinking about doing a diy subs for behind my theater seats. I'm also looking at the dayton subs. Should I go with a ultimax 10 or a dayton high output 10. I'm going to be making a 1 cubic ft sealed box for them 2 separate boxes. Your diy made me want to get my hands dirty
@@brnmaull the um10 actually models very well in a 1 cube box tuned to 22 hz or so. I've modeled it again the HO but the UM just performs better.
If you're just wanting some tactile experience the Dayton BST-1 transducer is also a great option.
@@hometheatergurus I got auro bass shakers attached to my seats they just don't go low enough
The name is " The Queen "... Lol...
cool build but i would never use fiberglass insulation. that shit will blow all over your floors and literally get everywhere. i cant stand insulation as it makes me itch at the sight of it lol. id use anything but fiberglass insulation.
Thanks for watching!
Be cool if you attached the cut sheets so we don't have to pay the video lol
It's on episode 34. :)
@@hometheatergurus huh I'm blind, I didn't see them as a link to download or an attachment. I had to pause the video and copy them. Amazing work!!!!
Please, Please do not use fiberglass insulation. It is a skin, eye and throat irritant that can be ejected from the port into your living space. Do Use fiber fill found in pillows and soft stuffed animals you let your kids play with. You don't let you kids play in the wall do you? Fiber fill can be found in the crafts department of big box stores. Think about it, you don't sleep on a pillow of fiberglass. You do sleep on a pillow of hypoallergenic polyester fiber fill.
Don't look in your HVAC vents, in every supply box and plemium. They're lined with semi rigid and rigid fiberglass duct board. Just saying. I've never once had any dust issues around subs. But I agree we should use what we are comfortable with.
Video is self Explanatory So there is no need for you to be you blah, blah, blah, blah, blah
I did all the blah blah to weed out the easily offended as I like to hear them complain. Thanks for watching. 😉
Not interest....