1951 MG TD wood replacement and body repair

In this episode, I tackle the cross-member behind the seats in the tub of a 1951 MG TD. It needs to be removed to get to the rotten wood around the door openings. replace wood skeleton, repair sheet metal, carriage built, rivets, welding, torch, heat, hinge, door, tub, dash, cowell, boot, trunk, bonnet, floor, body, firewall, striker, brass, handle, wheel well,

[@amazingdecks1]

I'm restoring a '53 presently with similar issues. I'm (again) at the 8 minute mark and thank you for the great content - makes my life so much easier. I may comment again as I get further in but rather than the heat gun, I prefer to drill out the screw heads. This particular part you are removing (8 minutes) is so badly rusted on mine that I'm making new one, but man, it was a job getting it out. As for rivets, use screws or weld.

[@atvsanonymous]

Thanks for the input! Good luck on your project!

[@jodyprather9503]

Thanks for taking the time to video your progress. I am also starting on my 51 td tub restore. Just finished a year long 53 td restore. I am retired so have plenty of time on my hands

[@atvsanonymous]

It's been fun. I've been learning a lot as I go.

[@joegoodfellow6981]

You have the right idea to use heat (best penetratind fluid in the world) on the severely rusted fasteners but you are using the wrong type of torch. Use a brazing torch rather than that cutting torch. Much neater flame and will save a lot of gas (and probably prevent setting fire to the car/ house!

[@atvsanonymous]

Good point!

[@blairweiss]

Who is the vendor of the rivets? I tried to google Gamut, but not coming up with anything.

[@atvsanonymous]

I think I just ended up using pop rivets. I couldn't get the standard rivets to work.

[@blairweiss]

@@atvsanonymous Thanks for the honest answer... There is probably a trick to real rivets.

[@atvsanonymous]

@@blairweiss probably a really expensive tool 😉