the idea is to shim (with bits of cardboard, like from a cereal box) the door in the door frame without the hinges. then fit the hinges to match. you may need new hinges. and as a last resort some work on where the hinges mate with the door jams and with the door. i would also look into buying new hinges. after so many years of use they are likely to be sprung. and if so, the doors will never fit right. and BTW, when adjusting doors or any body part, put only as many bolts in as is necessary to hold it in place to determine whether the fitment is closer than it was previously. putting all of them in each and every time is a waste of time.
Don't loose hope. You are quite fortunate to have one door fit so well so easily. Most of us have to sweat over two doors. As you said last week to me, slow and steady wins the race. Once you finally get behind the wheel, all the pain and suffering will be forgotten.
Hi Jamie, I just thought of somethingelse. I am 70 years old and things that used to fit and work properly when I was younger are now a little worn and don't fit or work as well either. Keep smiling!
I have been adjusting one of my doors for a year now. One MG forum member suggested adding a steel plate to the nuts and spot welding them in place to aid in future adjustments. Once the door and tub are covered over, the tightening is more difficult (need to remove the vinyl covering).
Usually door adjustment on T series cars is more a make the hole fit the door rather than the other way around. Try shims between the body tub and the frame where the tub is attached. Flat washers work nicely for shims. if you want to lower the door in the hole, you need to actually raise the front of the opening while keeping the rear clamped down. Try shimming where the body is attached the the frame in front of the door and make sure the rear is bolted solidly to the frame. Also, make sure the bolts at the rear of the tub (back at the side curtain box) are tight to the frame when you raise the front of the tub. If the opening is too tight, shims in the middle of the door opening and tight at each end will open it up some. As others have stated, door fit is a trial and error exasperating task.. but it can be done.
Thanks Neil, that’s some really good information. I’m not sure if mine is different, but I only have 2 places near the doors where the body tub mounts to the chassis, one near the B pillar and another in the middle of the door opening
@@MGREBUILD Don't know if the first part of my message got sent or not so here goes again.. apologies if it comes twice. If the door fits the hole with adequate clearance (a 1/4 " or less) without it being installed then hits when hinged then the following might help. If you consider the front of the body tub to be securely fastened to the frame via the support posts (triangular posts the toe board and firewall are bolted to, then the only changeable areas are the two bolts you mentioned and the two at the rear of the body tub by the side curtain box. Adding shims to the rear bolts by the side curtain box or adding shims at the B post will change the rake of the hinge pillar raising or lowering the front of the door a bit. Putting a shim under the bolt at the middle of the door while B pillar and front remain secured will vary the size of the opening for the door. Also make sure there is zero play in the hinge pins as just a small amount of wear there will make a big difference in door drop at the front. I have also used very thin shims between the hinge and the body or door to raise or lower the door. In some cases that seems to be the only thing that worked. Press on Regardless...
Neil Nelson thanks for your detailed message. I’m going to play with the door again tonight. The top of the door at the hinges also has to move inwards towards the tub. I will be gluing in hardwood dowels and drilling new holes to help with the alignment. Fingers crossed, or is it third time lucky.
Persistence is omnipotent👍🏼 Painted moving parts (like hinges) will usually chip & chip, but polishing brass is a PIA, & although there is clear coating available for brass, it doesn’t last forever either. Brass can be chromed too, & a good electroplater can eventually smooth all the nicks & marks🤑 Are you looking for concourse points at the end of the project, or just trying to please yourself??
@@MGREBUILD so the door fit initially but doesn't now? You may want to check your original pictures/videos to see if you have one showing the initial fit...
Personally, I'm going to paint my hinges body color. Lest you think I'm a purist, I'm strongly leaning towards painting the body a different color than the wings and running boards.
the idea is to shim (with bits of cardboard, like from a cereal box) the door in the door frame without the hinges. then fit the hinges to match. you may need new hinges. and as a last resort some work on where the hinges mate with the door jams and with the door. i would also look into buying new hinges. after so many years of use they are likely to be sprung. and if so, the doors will never fit right.
and BTW, when adjusting doors or any body part, put only as many bolts in as is necessary to hold it in place to determine whether the fitment is closer than it was previously. putting all of them in each and every time is a waste of time.
Don't loose hope. You are quite fortunate to have one door fit so well so easily. Most of us have to sweat over two doors. As you said last week to me, slow and steady wins the race. Once you finally get behind the wheel, all the pain and suffering will be forgotten.
Yes I’m very happy with the LHS, but that then make me the other side look worse
💯👌🏼
Hi Jamie, I just thought of somethingelse. I am 70 years old and things that used to fit and work properly when I was younger are now a little worn and don't fit or work as well either. Keep smiling!
So very true
I have been adjusting one of my doors for a year now. One MG forum member suggested adding a steel plate to the nuts and spot welding them in place to aid in future adjustments. Once the door and tub are covered over, the tightening is more difficult (need to remove the vinyl covering).
That’s a great idea.
Usually door adjustment on T series cars is more a make the hole fit the door rather than the other way around. Try shims between the body tub and the frame where the tub is attached. Flat washers work nicely for shims. if you want to lower the door in the hole, you need to actually raise the front of the opening while keeping the rear clamped down. Try shimming where the body is attached the the frame in front of the door and make sure the rear is bolted solidly to the frame. Also, make sure the bolts at the rear of the tub (back at the side curtain box) are tight to the frame when you raise the front of the tub. If the opening is too tight, shims in the middle of the door opening and tight at each end will open it up some. As others have stated, door fit is a trial and error exasperating task.. but it can be done.
Thanks Neil, that’s some really good information. I’m not sure if mine is different, but I only have 2 places near the doors where the body tub mounts to the chassis, one near the B pillar and another in the middle of the door opening
@@MGREBUILD Don't know if the first part of my message got sent or not so here goes again.. apologies if it comes twice. If the door fits the hole with adequate clearance (a 1/4 " or less) without it being installed then hits when hinged then the following might help. If you consider the front of the body tub to be securely fastened to the frame via the support posts (triangular posts the toe board and firewall are bolted to, then the only changeable areas are the two bolts you mentioned and the two at the rear of the body tub by the side curtain box. Adding shims to the rear bolts by the side curtain box or adding shims at the B post will change the rake of the hinge pillar raising or lowering the front of the door a bit. Putting a shim under the bolt at the middle of the door while B pillar and front remain secured will vary the size of the opening for the door. Also make sure there is zero play in the hinge pins as just a small amount of wear there will make a big difference in door drop at the front. I have also used very thin shims between the hinge and the body or door to raise or lower the door. In some cases that seems to be the only thing that worked. Press on Regardless...
Neil Nelson thanks for your detailed message. I’m going to play with the door again tonight. The top of the door at the hinges also has to move inwards towards the tub. I will be gluing in hardwood dowels and drilling new holes to help with the alignment.
Fingers crossed, or is it third time lucky.
I've been grappling with door fitment on my TF for some time. Thanks Neil for your detailed suggestions which I'll try.
Persistence is omnipotent👍🏼
Painted moving parts (like hinges) will usually chip & chip, but polishing brass is a PIA, & although there is clear coating available for brass, it doesn’t last forever either. Brass can be chromed too, & a good electroplater can eventually smooth all the nicks & marks🤑 Are you looking for concourse points at the end of the project, or just trying to please yourself??
It won’t be a concourse car, but I’m trying to make it as original as possible.
About your right side door mismatch, is it possible that you changed the body shape while replacing the timber?
The timber was already replaced prior to me buying it
@@MGREBUILD so the door fit initially but doesn't now? You may want to check your original pictures/videos to see if you have one showing the initial fit...
Dave Lawson yes I will have to troll through my videos and see how it originally fitted
Jaime I'll send you a picture of the assembled door stop on the FB T Page.
Thanks Mike. I will check it out
Personally, I'm going to paint my hinges body color. Lest you think I'm a purist, I'm strongly leaning towards painting the body a different color than the wings and running boards.
I’m leaning towards painting the hinges as I think the mismatch with the chrome would look out of place
@@MGREBUILD agreed
That is a lousy problem. I suppose having removed the tub everything (all sides) had a bit of flex and twist. Brain storming issue. The best of luck.
That’s the hard part. I put braces on the car when I move the tub, but there may have still been some flexing there. I will just keep trying